Love the way you explain stuff down to the bits you need to know and the things you might not work out for yourself without telling people stuff they probably know already. A real gift to us all.
Great vid. No unnecessary talking and good camera work. Small tip I might add is cover the oil returns before taking keepers off..JUST INCASE it’s drops and makes a run for one of the holes.
I'm doing this job on my 08 Silverado and have watched several how to videos. They've all been helpful but yours is the most complete. I have no idea how much I will be saving doing it myself but I'm sure it's at least $500 or so , if I do it right of course! Thank you so much for this.
Great tutorial! I’ve read on different forums how everyone has a hard time with the keepers. The magnet worked perfect!! After the first cylinder I handled it like a boss!! Thank you, thank you!!
i love videos like these. makes my life easier when the pros show you how to get it done. then i don't feel like such an amatuer when taking my own stuff apart. thanks for helping me save money and make money fixing my friends and neighbors stuff. people tend to want to hold on to good running cars or trucks. why not? makes perfect sense to keep driving something that runs good.
Great video, very clear and concise directions and tips. Thank you I was worried it was going to be more involved than it actually is. With help from a mechanic friend i'm planning on tackling this later in the week.
I started working on engines around five years old, worked professionally for a while, have overhauls and ground up restorations under my belt, now a hobby, and I think your video is great!!!! You guys do a great job, really clear and you focus on the details really well with the video. Easy to follow uncluttered, Keep up the great work!!
Absolutely first class video - many thanks! Considering the vast knowledge that car mechanics need, they don't get paid anything like as much as they should.
A guy at my work taught me that after you install the valve keepers hit the top of the valve with a brass or plastic hammer to make sure they are installed correctly. If they aren't they go flying. Better than putting it all back together, starting the engine and having it happen.
I have this same need, and this video pretty much told me exactly which tool to use, got that one, and how it's done. I had been told it was necessary to remove intake manifold, this video disproves that. Albeit, the left side two rear cylinders are a long reach, it seems by the time you get to that part, you should be getting pretty good with the Spring Compressor Assembly tool. Great video for this purpose.
Most Gen 1 Chevy small blocks didn't have seals on the exhausts because it's always under pressure, pushing the oil back into the V/C area, and the drip down after shut down wasn't much. That made those guides last a lot longer. Buick engines had little plastic umbrellas that rode up and down with the valve and never wore out, a genius design.
Very well done would have been seeing the finished product. I would like to see the whole job done. It gets hard reaching the very far valve seals with that spring compressor tool. It get tougher as you get to the rear of the engine. How come one guy doesn't get his hands dirty?
Maybe hes holding the camera?? As far as the job getting harder as you go deeper in the engine, yes that's true, sometimes life is hard, but here's an idea how about you thank this guy for dropping some knowledge instead complaining jerk?
Great video. But one thing I would suggest to anyone doing this that it doesn’t say in the clip is to put a bit of oil in/on the seal otherwise you’ll end up with bad seals again in no time at all.
Thanks!! I love that you can find these sorts of tutorials in here. This one was something I'd wanted to know because I'm having that issue now and it sure would be nice to take care of it myself
Should also mention to keep hands clear of all belts & pulleys. Some times the air in the cylinder causes the motor to turn over due to the air pushing the piston down. Just something to be aware of. Good video.But yeah, go behind the truck for personal adjustments!
If you happen not have shop air to do this kind of job, go get a spool of small nylon rope. This is acutally my perferred method. Bring the piston almost to TDC, then put a pretty good amount of the rope in the cylinder, but leave part of the rope hanging out of the spark plug hole to keep from having to fish it out of the cylinder. Then bring the piston to TDC. The piston will squeeze the rope against the valves, producing the same results as compressed air without risk of the engine turning.
older motors had ''umbrella seals'' they are in the same place but look like an umbrella. a smart tip to use if your engine is older or sat around much, is to check the height of your valve springs when they are off. good luck. :)
what about putting the rockers back on? any special procedure? im watching other videos and people are doing it while the engine is running others are not. Whats the best way to reinstall the rockers and ensure the valves are adjusted? is there a video you can recommend?
Amazon has a camshaft seal tool set for R &R cam and crank seals. It is from Private Brand Tools. It looks real easy. It is for OHC engines. Also consider Big-sert kit from Amazon. It prevents blown out insert holes with regular inserts. This can prevent a huge problem later. It costs but its worth it. Hopefully it can be done with the engine IN the car. Get inserts from Amazon. They are various sizes. If you replace a insert that is regular size, use Time-sert, if it hasn't had an insert before
@EMPIRE0FLIES Yes I have heard of using rope. I also heard that you can coat rope with grease before putting it in the cylinder if you need to clean the spark plug threads or install a thread busing such as a Time-Sert. You then fish the rope out with a wire hook. Any metal particles that drop into the cylinder will probably stick in the grease and be removed with the rope. Those shade-tree mechanics were inventive!
if the car blows blue after being warmed up it is likely because the oil rings on the pistons are worn or have lost their tempering from overheating, then they no longer press out on the cylinders, recovering the oil back during each stroke.
Also if you do rotate the piston to TDC, don't forget to lock the crankshaft somehow. If you don't the air pressure could suddenly make the piston go down and spin the crankshaft. This will will eliminate the pressure inside cylinder, which could drop the valve.
Someone told me a good way to hold up the valves was to simply stuff a rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Just make sure some of it is still poking out the hole so you can pull it out again. That way you don't need an air compressor or to buy an attachment.
@makoshark26. Not to bash or give these guys a hard time but lectricshave makes a valid point. I'm sure these guys no to be carful with that crowbar but some people that aren't too bright might not. Also, you diffidently don't want to be dropping anything into the engine, a rag isn't a bad idea. The tops of those valves are going to be flattened and a little marred up, hence the reason for covering them up when installing the seals. Wouldn't want to tear up the new ones putting them on, or risk
@YourePrettyGoood the cam in this engine is located in the middle of the block as it rotates it pushes the lifters up pushing the push rods causing the rocker arms to push down on and open the valves it does have a cam its just not an overhead cam it it a standard traditional design engine with a single senter block cam shaft
Goodson has valve tools and engine tools. OTC has tools. Kent-Moore has tools. Clothes-line can be used to hold the valves up. Use a soda straw to feed the string into the cylinder.
You could also put clothesline in the cylinder to hold up the valves. If a valve is leaking, then air escapes and the valve drops. A leakdown tester from Harbor Freight works. Get adaptors from Amazon. Goodson has valve seal tools. They are a good place for tools.
You will also need a compressor with enough output flow capability to constantly make up for any leakage past the rings and valves, especially in an older and worn engine. If not the pressure in the cylinder will constantly fall until it is all gone after the compressor's tank runs out. At that point you could drop the valve you are working on down into the cylinder.
@TanzanianRoots a few ways depending on what your working on crank match mark, distributor, or good old finger in the hole or a taped screwdriver. all though imo if your cam/ valve train is removed & you have good air source it really isnt necessary..... its only to keep the valve from dropping into the combustion chamber. with the cylinder filled with air it shouldnt be an issue.
look up the compression rating for your engine, and anything in that ballpark should do, I'm guessing 50-60 psi should be enough. important part is to make sure that cylinder is at TDC so if it isn't enough psi you don't lose the valve. it will just drop a little onto the top of the piston head and you'll be able to retrieve it from up top without having to take your head off. some people just use rope if they don't have an air compressor. just get some flexible rope and feed it into the cylinder until you've filled it up. then when you move it close to TDC it fills up the gap and stops your valve from going anywhere. only difference might be if you put too much rope in you might not get to tdc all the way and might have to back the crank up a little bit the other way to get the rope out. as long as you do it slowly, lightly, and smoothly it shouldn't mess with your timing or hurt anything. I wouldn't go jerking things around back and forth, use just enough torque to get things moving.
You replace ALL the valve seals at the same time. Get positive for intake and umbrella for exhaust if you can. I don't think you put pos. on both unless the book says so. The exhaust needs oil to lube the valve stems because of the heat. Ford has tools from Rotunda. Kent-Moore has tools for G.M. (SPX). They have import tools.
Ok les saludo, a todos los hispano parlantes que ven este vídeo, les aclaro, yo mismo hice esta reparación usando esto como guía,sin embargo hay varios puntos que por mi experiencia o por mi mal ingles no alcance a escuchar, Primero El recomienda que con cada par de válvulas que se reemplace el sello se debe colocar el pistón arriba para evitar que la válvula caiga,no obstante al cargar el cilindro con aire (yo utilice entre 40 y 80 psi constantes) el pistón baja debido al aire comprimido, es decir de alguna manera hay que fijar el cigüeñal para mantener dicho pistón en su punto mas alto, Segundo, la reparación se ilustra en las válvulas mas accesibles, ya que en las válvulas mas próximas a la cabina es altamente complejo, ahora bien tengo algunos años de experiencia en mecánica automotriz, y sin embargo la reparación no resulto sencilla, (Recomendación para Principiantes) buscar asesoría antes de intentar esta reparación, ya que es un proceso delicado, y un retenedor extraviado puede varar o confinar su vehículo al garaje por un tiempo, pero agradezco a las personas por subir el vídeo,y espero que si traducen no lo consideren una critica negativa,Saludos!!!
Compa yo ocupo aser esto cambiar los sellos de las valvulas cuando prendo la camioneta hecha humo entre blanco y azul solo al prenderla y la manejo un rato y al parar en unrato la prendo y vuelve a hechar humo el punto es no tengo compresor para poner air en la el piston como puedo asele solo con poner el piston arriva me funcionaria. Espero y me pueda orientar gracias
@tinydx95t2 do it at around 120+/- psi. thats how i did it. also put the keepers in the washer when you put it back on so you dont lose a keeper in an oil passage
@lawnside82 well in the beginning of the video he mentioned that the motor got real hot and burnt up the water pump, I'd say by useing the gas pedal as a variable position switch would help instead of an on and off......
@DALE97DSM No, these seals control the amount of oil around the intake and exhaust valve stems (or keep it out). I assume you're working on an inline style engine (like a Honda)? If so there should be gaskets (or o-rings) between the valve cover and the head.
@hudsonjamesc Sounds like piston rings are worn if it's blueish color smoke. Oil burns blue. White smoke is water and could mean a blown head gasket,cracked block,... Good luck. Bost can be costly.
@bharmon333 The oil on the spark plugs might have been in the spark plug hole where the boot resides. Valve cover gasket kits come with new spark plug hole seals. If there was liquid oil (not burnt yet) I would lean towards the valve cover seals. I've yet to do valve seals on a toyota, but I'm not saying that issue is not out there. If there was any oil in the hole, then it would have gotten on the threads as you took the plug out.
Love the way you explain stuff down to the bits you need to know and the things you might not work out for yourself without telling people stuff they probably know already. A real gift to us all.
Great vid. No unnecessary talking and good camera work. Small tip I might add is cover the oil returns before taking keepers off..JUST INCASE it’s drops and makes a run for one of the holes.
I like to use a little grease on the keepers to keep them on the valve before decompressing the spring. Nice video.
EricTheCarGuy Pff what do you know........wait....
EricTheCarGuy do you happen to know if there's a difference between the intake and exhaust valve seals on a 03 lq4?
I'm doing this job on my 08 Silverado and have watched several how to videos. They've all been helpful but yours is the most complete. I have no idea how much I will be saving doing it myself but I'm sure it's at least $500 or so , if I do it right of course! Thank you so much for this.
You candy it Rick, I'm glad i'm helped
Yeah, just pour some sweet and sticky candy all over it, and it will go nice and sweet.
Great tutorial! I’ve read on different forums how everyone has a hard time with the keepers. The magnet worked perfect!! After the first cylinder I handled it like a boss!! Thank you, thank you!!
glad it helped, thanks for commenting
i love videos like these. makes my life easier when the pros show you how to get it done. then i don't feel like such an amatuer when taking my own stuff apart. thanks for helping me save money and make money fixing my friends and neighbors stuff. people tend to want to hold on to good running cars or trucks. why not? makes perfect sense to keep driving something that runs good.
Great video, very clear and concise directions and tips. Thank you I was worried it was going to be more involved than it actually is. With help from a mechanic friend i'm planning on tackling this later in the week.
I started working on engines around five years old, worked professionally for a while, have overhauls and ground up restorations under my belt, now a hobby, and I think your video is great!!!! You guys do a great job, really clear and you focus on the details really well with the video. Easy to follow uncluttered, Keep up the great work!!
Absolutely first class video - many thanks!
Considering the vast knowledge that car mechanics need, they don't get paid anything like as much as they should.
A guy at my work taught me that after you install the valve keepers hit the top of the valve with a brass or plastic hammer to make sure they are installed correctly. If they aren't they go flying. Better than putting it all back together, starting the engine and having it happen.
I have this same need, and this video pretty much told me exactly which tool to use, got that one, and how it's done. I had been told it was necessary to remove intake manifold, this video disproves that. Albeit, the left side two rear cylinders are a long reach, it seems by the time you get to that part, you should be getting pretty good with the Spring Compressor Assembly tool. Great video for this purpose.
He is one of the Best Master Tech I tune to help me educate in diagnosing end repairs on engines. A truly great teacher .
Most Gen 1 Chevy small blocks didn't have seals on the exhausts because it's always under pressure, pushing the oil back into the V/C area, and the drip down after shut down wasn't much. That made those guides last a lot longer.
Buick engines had little plastic umbrellas that rode up and down with the valve and never wore out, a genius design.
A great video, thanks for posting. I am not that confident at mechanics but watching this beats hours of reading what you don't understand.
thank you guys,will be doing this my 94 suburban I like the way you explain the project .
Very well done, gentlemen, thank you for the video.
Very well done would have been seeing the finished product. I would like to see the whole job done. It gets hard reaching the very far valve seals with that spring compressor tool. It get tougher as you get to the rear of the engine. How come one guy doesn't get his hands dirty?
Maybe hes holding the camera?? As far as the job getting harder as you go deeper in the engine, yes that's true, sometimes life is hard, but here's an idea how about you thank this guy for dropping some knowledge instead complaining jerk?
I want the golden ticket and I want it now!
Great video. But one thing I would suggest to anyone doing this that it doesn’t say in the clip is to put a bit of oil in/on the seal otherwise you’ll end up with bad seals again in no time at all.
120psi
Use a plastic seal guide to protect the new seals, the tip of the valve and keeper grooves can get jagged or razor sharp...
you can use a file or crocus cloth or very fine sandpaper to smooth out the nicks or burrs, very carefully
Thanks!! I love that you can find these sorts of tutorials in here. This one was something I'd wanted to know because I'm having that issue now and it sure would be nice to take care of it myself
Should also mention to keep hands clear of all belts & pulleys. Some times the air in the cylinder causes the motor to turn over due to the air pushing the piston down. Just something to be aware of. Good video.But yeah, go behind the truck for personal adjustments!
its alot of good mechanic on here but you are about the best i have seen ..i wish i stay next door to you..
If you happen not have shop air to do this kind of job, go get a spool of small nylon rope. This is acutally my perferred method. Bring the piston almost to TDC, then put a pretty good amount of the rope in the cylinder, but leave part of the rope hanging out of the spark plug hole to keep from having to fish it out of the cylinder. Then bring the piston to TDC. The piston will squeeze the rope against the valves, producing the same results as compressed air without risk of the engine turning.
awesome video i have a smokey 4.3 and this video is great to show me how to change the valve seals.
older motors had ''umbrella seals'' they are in the same place but look like an umbrella. a smart tip to use if your engine is older or sat around much, is to check the height of your valve springs when they are off. good luck. :)
You guys made it look easy-peasy! Thanks for the tips!
Thank you VERY much. I have always been afraid to do these until now.
The Air Thing is Brilliant Man.Great Video
Thank you for your informative videos. You saved me lots of money thanks.
That was incredibly helpful guys- well done!
That’s cool the fact you can do it like that but must be hell of a lot easier to do it out of the car
dab of grease on the keepers helps on reinstall
The only thing I would add is put the new seals in fresh oil or oil the valve stems to prevent premature wear to the seals
what about putting the rockers back on? any special procedure? im watching other videos and people are doing it while the engine is running others are not. Whats the best way to reinstall the rockers and ensure the valves are adjusted? is there a video you can recommend?
Thank you so much for the details I need this for my truck.
Great step-by-step video guys. A lot of help.
Amazon has a camshaft seal tool set for R &R cam and crank seals. It is from Private Brand Tools. It looks real easy. It is for OHC engines. Also consider Big-sert kit from Amazon. It prevents blown out insert holes with regular inserts. This can prevent a huge problem later. It costs but its worth it. Hopefully it can be done with the engine IN the car. Get inserts from Amazon. They are various sizes. If you replace a insert that is regular size, use Time-sert, if it hasn't had an insert before
Sticky nutsack at 8:31..other than that this is a very good video Duane..LOL!!!
@EMPIRE0FLIES Yes I have heard of using rope. I also heard that you can coat rope with grease before putting it in the cylinder if you need to clean the spark plug threads or install a thread busing such as a Time-Sert. You then fish the rope out with a wire hook. Any metal particles that drop into the cylinder will probably stick in the grease and be removed with the rope. Those shade-tree mechanics were inventive!
Thanks for the video. I have an 87 Iroc that needs new valve seals
Awesome. The attention to detail is great. Thanks a bunch.
Bad piston rings smoke all the time. Bad valve seals smoke only at startup after being stopped for a bit.
Now that was good explanation and video. My 2006 Camry needs new valve stems at 250,000 miles... reckon I should do it.
great as always. one of the best automotive sites on you tube.
People like you are awesome. Nice video and thanks for sharing.
Nice video. Need to tackle this on a 91 tercel. Have the book but so much better to see it 'in person'.
Thank you!!! Plug all oil return and push rods so the keepers doesn’t fall in the crankcase.
Just saying .
This was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you!
if the car blows blue after being warmed up it is likely because the oil rings on the pistons are worn or have lost their tempering from overheating, then they no longer press out on the cylinders, recovering the oil back during each stroke.
Doing mine in about 2 hours. Hoping all goes well =)
How did it go?
Yea how did it go huh
Thanks for sharing the information, you’re very kind people
Also if you do rotate the piston to TDC, don't forget to lock the crankshaft somehow. If you don't the air pressure could suddenly make the piston go down and spin the crankshaft. This will will eliminate the pressure inside cylinder, which could drop the valve.
Great video guys, very well done and professional :)
@ 8:29 LOL. We all do it. Great vid!
Someone told me a good way to hold up the valves was to simply stuff a rope into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. Just make sure some of it is still poking out the hole so you can pull it out again. That way you don't need an air compressor or to buy an attachment.
thank for that video, i found u guys at the right time.
@makoshark26. Not to bash or give these guys a hard time but lectricshave makes a valid point. I'm sure these guys no to be carful with that crowbar but some people that aren't too bright might not. Also, you diffidently don't want to be dropping anything into the engine, a rag isn't a bad idea. The tops of those valves are going to be flattened and a little marred up, hence the reason for covering them up when installing the seals. Wouldn't want to tear up the new ones putting them on, or risk
Thanks for this! My 91 Chevy both need this!
Thanks sir this video reassured me I was quite capable of doing this job
Great explanation thanks for sharing your knowledge
@YourePrettyGoood the cam in this engine is located in the middle of the block as it rotates it pushes the lifters up pushing the push rods causing the rocker arms to push down on and open the valves it does have a cam its just not an overhead cam it it a standard traditional design engine with a single senter block cam shaft
Thanks a lot, bout to knock this out this weekend
Goodson has valve tools and engine tools. OTC has tools. Kent-Moore has tools. Clothes-line can be used to hold the valves up. Use a soda straw to feed the string into the cylinder.
You could also put clothesline in the cylinder to hold up the valves. If a valve is leaking, then air escapes and the valve drops. A leakdown tester from Harbor Freight works. Get adaptors from Amazon. Goodson has valve seal tools. They are a good place for tools.
You will also need a compressor with enough output flow capability to constantly make up for any leakage past the rings and valves, especially in an older and worn engine. If not the pressure in the cylinder will constantly fall until it is all gone after the compressor's tank runs out. At that point you could drop the valve you are working on down into the cylinder.
@TanzanianRoots a few ways depending on what your working on crank match mark, distributor, or good old finger in the hole or a taped screwdriver. all though imo if your cam/ valve train is removed & you have good air source it really isnt necessary..... its only to keep the valve from dropping into the combustion chamber. with the cylinder filled with air it shouldnt be an issue.
Carefull tapping the seal on, if you just move the valve a whisker you can lose pressure and drop a the valve...great vid though
Great video, thank you for the educational information.
Get a radiator pressure tester from Amazon. It reads 30 lbs. It locates leaks quickly. Get adaptors if necessary.
Very informative, as always. Thanks for posting!
thanks much for this video, i forsee a valve seal replacement in my jeeps future
It's amazing, good technique, i appreciate that.
very good mechanic i learn alot from you thanks
Thanks, I appreciate your comments
how many psi do you need to keep the valve up
look up the compression rating for your engine, and anything in that ballpark should do, I'm guessing 50-60 psi should be enough. important part is to make sure that cylinder is at TDC so if it isn't enough psi you don't lose the valve. it will just drop a little onto the top of the piston head and you'll be able to retrieve it from up top without having to take your head off. some people just use rope if they don't have an air compressor. just get some flexible rope and feed it into the cylinder until you've filled it up. then when you move it close to TDC it fills up the gap and stops your valve from going anywhere. only difference might be if you put too much rope in you might not get to tdc all the way and might have to back the crank up a little bit the other way to get the rope out. as long as you do it slowly, lightly, and smoothly it shouldn't mess with your timing or hurt anything. I wouldn't go jerking things around back and forth, use just enough torque to get things moving.
You replace ALL the valve seals at the same time. Get positive for intake and umbrella for exhaust if you can. I don't think you put pos. on both unless the book says so. The exhaust needs oil to lube the valve stems because of the heat. Ford has tools from Rotunda. Kent-Moore has tools for G.M. (SPX). They have import tools.
Yes, that will work very well if you don't have access to compressed air.
Hats off to you guys ! Very good video. Thank you
Ok les saludo, a todos los hispano parlantes que ven este vídeo, les aclaro, yo mismo hice esta reparación usando esto como guía,sin embargo hay varios puntos que por mi experiencia o por mi mal ingles no alcance a escuchar, Primero El recomienda que con cada par de válvulas que se reemplace el sello se debe colocar el pistón arriba para evitar que la válvula caiga,no obstante al cargar el cilindro con aire (yo utilice entre 40 y 80 psi constantes) el pistón baja debido al aire comprimido, es decir de alguna manera hay que fijar el cigüeñal para mantener dicho pistón en su punto mas alto, Segundo, la reparación se ilustra en las válvulas mas accesibles, ya que en las válvulas mas próximas a la cabina es altamente complejo, ahora bien tengo algunos años de experiencia en mecánica automotriz, y sin embargo la reparación no resulto sencilla, (Recomendación para Principiantes) buscar asesoría antes de intentar esta reparación, ya que es un proceso delicado, y un retenedor extraviado puede varar o confinar su vehículo al garaje por un tiempo, pero agradezco a las personas por subir el vídeo,y espero que si traducen no lo consideren una critica negativa,Saludos!!!
Compa yo ocupo aser esto cambiar los sellos de las valvulas cuando prendo la camioneta hecha humo entre blanco y azul solo al prenderla y la manejo un rato y al parar en unrato la prendo y vuelve a hechar humo el punto es no tengo compresor para poner air en la el piston como puedo asele solo con poner el piston arriva me funcionaria. Espero y me pueda orientar gracias
Great Work Teach Xcellence
Just what I needed to see, well made video
@tinydx95t2 do it at around 120+/- psi. thats how i did it. also put the keepers in the washer when you put it back on so you dont lose a keeper in an oil passage
Good video..thanks for taking the time to educate us.
@lawnside82 well in the beginning of the video he mentioned that the motor got real hot and burnt up the water pump, I'd say by useing the gas pedal as a variable position switch would help instead of an on and off......
@DALE97DSM No, these seals control the amount of oil around the intake and exhaust valve stems (or keep it out). I assume you're working on an inline style engine (like a Honda)? If so there should be gaskets (or o-rings) between the valve cover and the head.
Good job, good tutorial, thank you.
Nice work
hey thanks for the video! i have a question. what another tool can I use to keep air in to the cylinder?
Thanks for the informative video.
Even if it is 144p quality, its still a helpful video.
@hudsonjamesc Sounds like piston rings are worn if it's blueish color smoke. Oil burns blue. White smoke is water and could mean a blown head gasket,cracked block,... Good luck. Bost can be costly.
Very cool and useful !
THANKS
@bharmon333 The oil on the spark plugs might have been in the spark plug hole where the boot resides. Valve cover gasket kits come with new spark plug hole seals. If there was liquid oil (not burnt yet) I would lean towards the valve cover seals. I've yet to do valve seals on a toyota, but I'm not saying that issue is not out there. If there was any oil in the hole, then it would have gotten on the threads as you took the plug out.
Great demo guys!
its just a hose from a compression tester, with a male air hose fitting on the inlet.
thank you for teaching
Thanks for the video.
Awesome video. Thank you guys
where can I get a hose like that for the spark plug for air
The air hose comes with a standard compression kit
thanks for that info helped me in my car problem.
TheRick2130....BRAVO.......clap, clap, clap, great response!
Great video, well done.