Absolutely fantastic fix for this issue! That tool worked perfectly and saved me hours of messing around. Thanks for such a great video and you're a genius with that tool you created! Thanks.
I have a 2005 GTI and had a shop install a new steering cable. (Stiff steering) So my son took his maiden voyage on it yesterday and he about sunk. Sucked water into the motor and had to get towed in. So after getting motor running again I figured out the clown that installed the cable didn't put any of the rubber seals back in just ran cable through the hole with gaps around it at the rear where it exits the sea doo. Water was just pouring in. Thanks for this video it was great.
Glad this helped. You never know what a shop will do. I always water test on the trailer at the ramp, then I do a short ride and beach it and then pull the seat off. Glad your boy is ok.
Thank you, Johanthan, for sharing your video and your homemade tool. This past week I had a similar problem with my 2006 Sea Doo GTX not going forward under power after I had switched to reverse. To get the machine back in the forward direction, I had to power the See Doo off, then move lever forward and then power on. Unit stayed engaged in forward until which time I used reverse, and then again would not go into forward. I searched online and found that I too had a broken Billet (lock nut) on the reverse cable. I ordered mine from Amazon and in two days had the part in hand. I made my Billet tool like yours, using a 1/2" copper pipe. I cut one end in a cross, then folded the sides back and applied some solder so they would not break off. Then, on the other end of the tool I also cut a cross and removed a 1"16 inch of material on each side and the pieces. Next, I shaped the four pieces cut, to make a small square using pliers and vise until my 1/2" drive socket (1" socket for Billet) fit on the end of the copper pipe. I hammered the socket onto the copper piece (now square) so it would stay snug. I now have an extracting tool (like your tool) and a socket tool to install the Billet as one tool.
I used these ..but if you lost one or both plastic half circles , get the one that includes those Venom Alloy Steering Cable Lock Nut w Seal (For Sea-Doo/Fits MANY RXT RXP GTR GS GTI LE GSX GTS GTX RFI HX RX DI) See ad for exact model & year fit a.co/d/5sdS1bl
And another. Did my reverse nut today, made your tool…took about 30 seconds to remove! One more tip I discovered: a kobalt 31/32” shower valve wrench fits and makes it possible to do the right side w/o removal of the pump.
I got mine taken apart and put back together. But now my alignment for both the steering and the forward/reverse is off. I did count how many threads when I took the linkages off at the back. They are both off more than just a couple of threads. More like an inch or so on both sides. But I put everything back together the same, as far as I know. What am I missing? Or what is the best way to make the adjustments?
Something isn't right if your off by that much. I'm guessing you pushed the cables back into the hull. The plastic collar on the cable need to be mostly flat against the inner transom where it goes thru. Also make sure those half-circle plastic parts are in the right spot. I feel like they're not in the groove and behind or before causing the offset.
Well I just went to do this on my 2002 Gtx 4 tec and I used a thread chaser to clean out the old threads and it took out the threads in the tube too... I thought the cable housing was aluminum so thought I'd feel a little resistance when the tap bottomed out, but didn't and just turned all the threads out. Now I gotta replace the whole damn pump support.
Well damn, that sux. I made a tap out of a spare nut and it worked really well to clean out rtv sealant. A steel tap may have been too sharp for the plastic. Sorry man, I've done worse.
@@jonparkmac there is hope... I got JB weld plastic weld crap, coated the inside threads and my aluminum nut, used Hornady One Shot as a release agent (it's a Lube for reloading ammo)... Let it cure 30 minutes and slowly backed the nut out. It appears I have usable threads now... Gonna let it cure fully before effing with it but I remain hopeful haha
I had my plastic oem lock nut brake (like yours) and replaced both the steering and reverse cable locknut by my local mechanic. I had brought in aftermarket aluminum lock nuts as he assured me that it may not be the smartest idea interlocking a metal to a plastic thread. He ended up replacing both locknuts with oem plastic and I still found leaking issues. I went back to him and he tried a second time to secure the seals (I’m assuming the half circles). After his second time working on it, still no luck and almost sank the ski while fishing. Have you ever heard of people applying silicone around the locknut and your thoughts? Not very stoked on half assing this but considering this option.
Hey there. There is no issue with the metal into plastic threads there. What you do is use that thread sealant on the threads, not silicon. Teflon tape will work too. The reason it's leaking is he's not doing it right. You actually don't even need to seal those threads, just added protection. What you DO need is a new rubber seal washer that goes down into the hub hole. That's what seals it, not the threads and not the plastic half circles. The way these work is, the rubber washer fits around the cable and goes down into the button of the hub. It's a little snug. The half circles fit around a collar groove on the cable and then they slide up into the nut. Then the nut is screwed carefully into hub until it contacts the rubber washer. Then about 1 more turn it squeezes that rubber making it compress around the cable. That's the seal effect right there. Water cannot get under or over either side of the rubber..and it cannot get past the middle around the cable since it's squished right. I just redid a ski where they tried to use rtv silicone there and on inside and made a huge mess. I cut all of it away and put back connect parts. Dry as a bone. I hate to say it but your mechanic doesn't know how these work. If your handy ..you can do it yourself. If so, let me know and I have a few more tips.
The rubber washers bottom left are what I am referring too. 2 Set 277001729 277001527 Steering Reverse Aluminum Cable Lock Nut Kit - by Huthbrother, Compatible with Sea Doo 293830063 277000055 211100009 a.co/d/hw7DUO5
Help! This is genius! I used the copper pipe to get the remains of the nut out but now I am unclear on how the half circles go on. Does the small inner diameter one go towards the ski or away from it? How do you know it's aligned in the right spot on the cable?
These are hard to explain. Their purpose is not to seal but to keep the outside cable sleeve from moving. So they go just behind the cable rim, and will be inside the nut when you tighten it in. So you put them in place, push the cable in, the push the lock nutt down into it and screw it in place. Use thread sealant and do not cross thread the plastic threads
I see you were missing the big rubber boot on the steering cable, could you not get the red metal lock back over the rubber boot? I fixed my reverse cable and lock, but when I did the steering cable lock it doesn't seem to hold the cable straight out like the reverse cable. Almost seems floppy like it's not holding it in place right. Any ideas?
The rubber boot on the larger has to come off. Take both off anyway so you can relube while you got it apart. You need the thick rubber seal inside the socket on the pump, then the 2 plastic halves, then the nut tightens and seals against the thick rubber. It squeezes the rubber around the cable to seal it. The part coming out of the nut can have a little wiggle..that's fine. Key things are that thick rubber seal and holding cable in place so it doesn't go back and forth
@@jonparkmac Okay then I might be fine the cable doesn't move in and out but it doesn't have as much sturdiness as the shifting cable does once I switched the nuts. I also used the same washer as the reverse cable which was really tight compared to the OEM steering side washer. Might take it off and use the OEM rubber washer instead
In the beginning of the video, you mentioned the 2 rubber boots and said you don't want to lose those. But I don't know when they go back in or which side. (I haven't taken mine apart yet.) Do they go in before the rubber washer or after the washer or what?
Those seal the telescoping cable itself. Have to take those off to get the nutt off and new one on. They go on last ..but lube the cable up real good with marine grease ..I spray oil into the cable, then grease and work the cable to and fro ..then put the big one on ..then the little one.
Nah. If they feel good and not torn they are fine. You CAN get new boots tho. I soak rubber like that in silicon spray and rejuvenate it. If you have the time replace them ..you can do it end of season too ..just linkage with 10mm wrench there.
You were missing a rubber peice on the back of the drive shaft. May have stayed in the pump just hope it ligned up right when u installed the pump back on.
@@jonparkmac i got that fixed. Took it out saturday and it kept bogging like it needs a fuel pump. Then ran it on the trailer yesterday and it overheated…
On my 2004 GTX, the steering and brake "half-circles" are 2 different sizes. MANY do not know this. I think in this video he reused the old ones, so he didn't even notice.
He, meaning me, is aware and replaced with new. No such thing as a brake btw, you probably mean reverse bucket. Best to always check the parts manual and not guess at things like this 😉
link for the part? thanks!
I'll pin it ..HuthBrother 277001729 Steering... www.amazon.com/dp/B08TWPV5BZ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
And here is another super grateful fella for you taking the time to put the video together and share! Thank you bud!
Cool. Glad it helped
Absolutely fantastic fix for this issue! That tool worked perfectly and saved me hours of messing around. Thanks for such a great video and you're a genius with that tool you created! Thanks.
Glad it helped. I got the idea from someone else. I also made a threading tap to clean up the threads ..but I got that from someone else too 😂
1/2" conduit worked perfect too. Thank you brother! Literally took longer to make the tool that to extract the broken piece!!! Much praise!!!
Right on! Love to hear it.
I have a 2005 GTI and had a shop install a new steering cable. (Stiff steering) So my son took his maiden voyage on it yesterday and he about sunk. Sucked water into the motor and had to get towed in. So after getting motor running again I figured out the clown that installed the cable didn't put any of the rubber seals back in just ran cable through the hole with gaps around it at the rear where it exits the sea doo. Water was just pouring in. Thanks for this video it was great.
Glad this helped. You never know what a shop will do. I always water test on the trailer at the ramp, then I do a short ride and beach it and then pull the seat off. Glad your boy is ok.
Thank you, Johanthan, for sharing your video and your homemade tool. This past week I had a similar problem with my 2006 Sea Doo GTX not going forward under power after I had switched to reverse. To get the machine back in the forward direction, I had to power the See Doo off, then move lever forward and then power on. Unit stayed engaged in forward until which time I used reverse, and then again would not go into forward. I searched online and found that I too had a broken Billet (lock nut) on the reverse cable.
I ordered mine from Amazon and in two days had the part in hand.
I made my Billet tool like yours, using a 1/2" copper pipe. I cut one end in a cross, then folded the sides back and applied some solder so they would not break off. Then, on the other end of the tool I also cut a cross and removed a 1"16 inch of material on each side and the pieces. Next, I shaped the four pieces cut, to make a small square using pliers and vise until my 1/2" drive socket (1" socket for Billet) fit on the end of the copper pipe. I hammered the socket onto the copper piece (now square) so it would stay snug. I now have an extracting tool (like your tool) and a socket tool to install the Billet as one tool.
That's a really good idea.
Hi, can you email me the amazon part you bought? I need it for my 2008 SeaDoo GTI SE 130. Thanks!
I used these ..but if you lost one or both plastic half circles , get the one that includes those Venom Alloy Steering Cable Lock Nut w Seal (For Sea-Doo/Fits MANY RXT RXP GTR GS GTI LE GSX GTS GTX RFI HX RX DI) See ad for exact model & year fit a.co/d/5sdS1bl
Actually tried this today and the copper pipe idea worked great.
Glad it helped. I got that idea from some other dude on CZcams. It does work well.
The copper pipe was genius! I tried for so long with pliers and other tools with no success. Thanks for sharing
I can't take credit for the idea .. but glad it worked for you.
And another. Did my reverse nut today, made your tool…took about 30 seconds to remove! One more tip I discovered: a kobalt 31/32” shower valve wrench fits and makes it possible to do the right side w/o removal of the pump.
Sweet!
My steering cable broke off this past weekend. Used the copper pipe method and worked like a charm.
Nice! I can't take credit for that idea. I got it from some other joe and thought it was brilliant
This happened to me. Thanks for sharing how to fix this!
Thank you for the pipe tool trick! This allowed me to remove that broken piece in about 2 minutes! Saved so much frustration!
Cool brutha. Glad that helped. I got the idea from some other dude.
To get the nut back in if you don’t have the tool you can use an older under sink wrench it works great
That's a great idea.
Life saver!... Thank you!
Happy to help
I got mine taken apart and put back together. But now my alignment for both the steering and the forward/reverse is off. I did count how many threads when I took the linkages off at the back. They are both off more than just a couple of threads. More like an inch or so on both sides. But I put everything back together the same, as far as I know. What am I missing? Or what is the best way to make the adjustments?
Something isn't right if your off by that much. I'm guessing you pushed the cables back into the hull. The plastic collar on the cable need to be mostly flat against the inner transom where it goes thru. Also make sure those half-circle plastic parts are in the right spot. I feel like they're not in the groove and behind or before causing the offset.
@@jonparkmac thanks! I'll check it out.
Well I just went to do this on my 2002 Gtx 4 tec and I used a thread chaser to clean out the old threads and it took out the threads in the tube too... I thought the cable housing was aluminum so thought I'd feel a little resistance when the tap bottomed out, but didn't and just turned all the threads out. Now I gotta replace the whole damn pump support.
Well damn, that sux. I made a tap out of a spare nut and it worked really well to clean out rtv sealant. A steel tap may have been too sharp for the plastic. Sorry man, I've done worse.
@@jonparkmac there is hope... I got JB weld plastic weld crap, coated the inside threads and my aluminum nut, used Hornady One Shot as a release agent (it's a Lube for reloading ammo)... Let it cure 30 minutes and slowly backed the nut out. It appears I have usable threads now... Gonna let it cure fully before effing with it but I remain hopeful haha
I had my plastic oem lock nut brake (like yours) and replaced both the steering and reverse cable locknut by my local mechanic. I had brought in aftermarket aluminum lock nuts as he assured me that it may not be the smartest idea interlocking a metal to a plastic thread. He ended up replacing both locknuts with oem plastic and I still found leaking issues. I went back to him and he tried a second time to secure the seals (I’m assuming the half circles). After his second time working on it, still no luck and almost sank the ski while fishing. Have you ever heard of people applying silicone around the locknut and your thoughts? Not very stoked on half assing this but considering this option.
My ski is a 2008 Honda f15x Aqua Trax
Hey there. There is no issue with the metal into plastic threads there. What you do is use that thread sealant on the threads, not silicon. Teflon tape will work too. The reason it's leaking is he's not doing it right. You actually don't even need to seal those threads, just added protection. What you DO need is a new rubber seal washer that goes down into the hub hole. That's what seals it, not the threads and not the plastic half circles. The way these work is, the rubber washer fits around the cable and goes down into the button of the hub. It's a little snug. The half circles fit around a collar groove on the cable and then they slide up into the nut. Then the nut is screwed carefully into hub until it contacts the rubber washer. Then about 1 more turn it squeezes that rubber making it compress around the cable. That's the seal effect right there. Water cannot get under or over either side of the rubber..and it cannot get past the middle around the cable since it's squished right. I just redid a ski where they tried to use rtv silicone there and on inside and made a huge mess. I cut all of it away and put back connect parts. Dry as a bone. I hate to say it but your mechanic doesn't know how these work. If your handy ..you can do it yourself. If so, let me know and I have a few more tips.
The rubber washers bottom left are what I am referring too. 2 Set 277001729 277001527 Steering Reverse Aluminum Cable Lock Nut Kit - by Huthbrother, Compatible with Sea Doo 293830063 277000055 211100009 a.co/d/hw7DUO5
I just saw your note about Honda 2008. I don't know if this is the same as SeaDoo.
Help! This is genius! I used the copper pipe to get the remains of the nut out but now I am unclear on how the half circles go on. Does the small inner diameter one go towards the ski or away from it? How do you know it's aligned in the right spot on the cable?
These are hard to explain. Their purpose is not to seal but to keep the outside cable sleeve from moving. So they go just behind the cable rim, and will be inside the nut when you tighten it in. So you put them in place, push the cable in, the push the lock nutt down into it and screw it in place. Use thread sealant and do not cross thread the plastic threads
I see you were missing the big rubber boot on the steering cable, could you not get the red metal lock back over the rubber boot? I fixed my reverse cable and lock, but when I did the steering cable lock it doesn't seem to hold the cable straight out like the reverse cable. Almost seems floppy like it's not holding it in place right. Any ideas?
The rubber boot on the larger has to come off. Take both off anyway so you can relube while you got it apart. You need the thick rubber seal inside the socket on the pump, then the 2 plastic halves, then the nut tightens and seals against the thick rubber. It squeezes the rubber around the cable to seal it. The part coming out of the nut can have a little wiggle..that's fine. Key things are that thick rubber seal and holding cable in place so it doesn't go back and forth
@@jonparkmac Okay then I might be fine the cable doesn't move in and out but it doesn't have as much sturdiness as the shifting cable does once I switched the nuts. I also used the same washer as the reverse cable which was really tight compared to the OEM steering side washer. Might take it off and use the OEM rubber washer instead
In the beginning of the video, you mentioned the 2 rubber boots and said you don't want to lose those. But I don't know when they go back in or which side. (I haven't taken mine apart yet.) Do they go in before the rubber washer or after the washer or what?
Those seal the telescoping cable itself. Have to take those off to get the nutt off and new one on. They go on last ..but lube the cable up real good with marine grease ..I spray oil into the cable, then grease and work the cable to and fro ..then put the big one on ..then the little one.
@Jonathan McClure thank you. So I need to order new boots? If it was in the video, I must have missed that part.
Nah. If they feel good and not torn they are fine. You CAN get new boots tho. I soak rubber like that in silicon spray and rejuvenate it. If you have the time replace them ..you can do it end of season too ..just linkage with 10mm wrench there.
I did the same thing not realizing it and i dont want to mess it up being its plastic
I found that standard 1/2" metal electrical conduit was the perfect size.
Good to know.
Do you go as tight as possible on the steering nut?
Nah, just snug is fine. The thread sealant is more important
You were missing a rubber peice on the back of the drive shaft. May have stayed in the pump just hope it ligned up right when u installed the pump back on.
There's only one on these models. Older 2 strokes have 2
Is that 1/2 inch or 3/4 pipe ?
1/2" ..you can get 2 ft sections at Lowes or home depot
@@jonparkmacthank you
Did you use a tap to fix the crossed nut?
No I just carefully worked it in straight again. The crooked one I hadn't tightened so it didn't cut the threads
@@jonparkmac i got that fixed. Took it out saturday and it kept bogging like it needs a fuel pump. Then ran it on the trailer yesterday and it overheated…
On my 2004 GTX, the steering and brake "half-circles" are 2 different sizes. MANY do not know this. I think in this video he reused the old ones, so he didn't even notice.
He, meaning me, is aware and replaced with new. No such thing as a brake btw, you probably mean reverse bucket. Best to always check the parts manual and not guess at things like this 😉
What size copper pipe?
Ordinary 1/2 " and get the thicker gauge if you can