Do I Really Need A Pro Chainsaw? - Teaching Apprentice Dave!
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- čas přidán 14. 08. 2021
- Do I Really Need A Pro Chainsaw? - Teaching Apprentice Dave!
One question that often comes up from my viewers and customers is "Do I really need an expensive pro chainsaw?
In this video I discuss this with Dave and hopefully this gives everyone watching a better idea as to what chainsaw they really need for their cutting needs!
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Watch my review on the Stihl MS291c chainsaw here:
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Watch my review on the Stihl MS291c chainsaw here:
czcams.com/video/t5ZtXo_saGg/video.html
Those MS 290 / 291s have probably cut more firewood than any other saws (maybe 028s all series).
Our local metal scrap business has a bin for people to toss metal in on weekends. I stopped to toss metal in one weekend and seen a Stihl MS261 in there. I pulled the rope and it was not seized. I took it home and someone tried cleaning the carb and used blue sealant instead of gaskets lol. I dunked the carb, installed a kit with new gaskets and it runs like a top. Best score in my life!!!!
I love my MS261.
My first chainsaw too.
Always puts a smile on my face hearing her idle.
Thats an incredible first saw
@@theshapeexists Since posting this originally my saw was basically halfway brand new. Since then I've put on many hours and quite a few cans of Motomix.
The saw is still running like a champion. Haven't changed the plug yet and its not given me any issues whatsoever.
Ive only ran a hard reset once and it was just because I wanted to do it.
I slab with it mainly. I cut Eastern Red Cedar, Black Walnut, tons of Hedge, Elm, Red and White Oak.
It's even went down to Florida with me to help cleanup after Hurricane Ian.
That saw went to Captiva island with me and took out some serious palms and other tropical species.
I'd recommend it to anyone.
I don't need a pro saw because I only cut a few loads a year and I use it for camping, BUT, I like metal and am willing to pay up for it. Also like to be able to swap slugs and jugs without tearing the whole saw apart if/when that time comes. Bought a 362 and don't have a single regret about the price. It pinched the wallet a bit, but after the 1st use, never looked back. 4.7HP and about 12lbs. If a large tree ever blows down in my path, then again I am equipped to deal with it. Just my 1 1/2 cents..
@sylkelster: my thoughts exactly.
Going with a pro saw motivated me to learn how to really sharpen a chain and make it feel like a brand new saw every time I use it, once you've done that you're gonna want to keep it clean and feed it quality fuel. The old johnsered 2159 was a good saw but the 562xp is a Cadillac in comparison, it makes the occasional 40+" oak a breeze.
here in the states a 261 is only 100 bucks more than the 291 and its 1 1/2 pound lighter with better performance and easier to work on just sayin
Agree. I have the 260, a bit older. Perfect saw for life.
Exactly!
I usually buy the 290 saws and convert them to 390 saws, much more power..
I have an old 026 that's lasted me over 20yrs, with no problems, other than normal maintenance! I love that saw!
Unfortunately, this year it got a crack in the impulse line, and scored the piston before I noticed how hot it was running. Grrr!
So, I cleaned up the cylinder with a scotch brite pad and a dremel tool. And I replaced all of the hoses, and the intake boot with new OEM hoses and intake, and a Meteor piston. (Thanks for the instruction video Donny!!) And, so far it's running like a champ again.
In the meantime I thought I'd go ahead and buy a new saw, just incase. So, I was just about to go pick up a new 261 from my local dealer, and I actually found a super clean 2020 model ms261 that a friend of mine had repaired, after someone straight gassed it. The new 261 is a beast, for a 50cc saw! It has alot more power than my 026.
I guess what I'm trying to say is, the pro saws SHOULD last an average homeowner a LONG TIME! If the 261 lasts as long as my 026, I'll be 73 when it wears out!
There's no way a clamshell saw will last that long!
So, why not spend a little more now, and have a chainsaw that lasts you 20yrs....
@@capohd28 my 026 lasted 20yrs! And, probably would have lasted another 10, if I had just replaced the impulse line!!
But, don't use a 261, unless you want to spend your $!
Bc I can promise you that you'll want one if you run one!! Its a mean 50cc machine!!
Simple rules...buy the best tool you can afford or, what your prepared to pay for and the workload on the tool.
I have been cutting wood for years. So about 8 to 9 cord of wood a year for the farm. 6 years ago I started cutting wood to sell. So for 6 years I've been cutting around 35 to 40 cord a year. I have the echo timber Wolf and I've been using a Stihl consumer saw. I've cut over 300 full cord of wood over these years and never had an issue. My saws are running as good as they always have been. I clean them every night and whatever regular maintenance. No issues.
Right On!
Take Care of your equipment, and it will take care of you!
Everyone needs a pro saw. I bought my missus a 660, then a 661 then a 084 then a 3120, she loves them all. Especially when I borrow them from her to cut down trees to process into firewood to keep her warm
Love my MS180 for just those small jobs - fact is I have two of them. Also have a MS290 farm boss for when the smaller saw does not have it. I cut about 20 ton of firewood a year plus have a lot of trimming to do. The trimming is where the smaller saws come in handy. The really small battery saw is for really light duty.
Good summary could have added some bits about functionality and user comfort:
I use a 250 and a 260: the 260 has less vibration transmitted to the operator, is lighter to carry and has way better falling dogs, and can even have a second set added and for cold weather can be fitted with a handle warmer. The 250 cuts just as well as the 260 sometimes better depending on how many rocks have been hit flush cutting with the 260. Vibration reduction is important after 7 hours workfor maintaining brain function and not detaching retinas on 60 year olds!
Carrying the ms 250 anywhere in 35C isnt a first choice either.
A friend feeds his winter fire wood habit with a 170, because it is so light and cheap, and the logs are stacked high - but he uses 300 and 500 series saws for falling and cutting bigger logs..
Yep, I agree. I have a Farm Boss I bought back in 2000, that I used to cut firewood before recent health issues. I also have an older saw, an 009, that I picked up several years ago and had to repair. I use it today around the house - fallen tree branches from storms that need a cutting down to size to haul to my fire pit; and even old lumber cut down for burning. It's so lightweight, it's all I would ever want around the house.
If you're cutting your own firewood on a regular basis, you need multiple saws. You want a big saw, with a 20-24" bar, (if your trees warrant this big), and then you want a nice lite 12-16" bar saw for limbing. Don't kill your arms cutting branches with a 20-24" bar on a heavy saw.
I use an MS 260 pro with a 32 inch bar and a semi skip chain. the whole point of the 32 inch bar is so I can reach the ground without bending over. the semi skip chain lets me do full bar cuts without bogging the engine.
Love my MS260, especially as I get older. It's very light and powerful and easy to start, even after all these years. Easy to work on. Worth every cent. Will cut,everything I throw at it. Still only use it a half dozen times per year. Will likely outlast me.
I run an MS260 Pro with a 32 inch bar and a semi skip chain. one of my jobs has me with an MS360 and a shorter bar. I can feel the difference after about 10 minutes of cutting. my best advice for homeowners are to make light weight a priority.
@@kenbrown2808 Agree that lightness is worth every penny. 32" bar? That's impressive! I have never run longer than 20" as that covers any tree in my yard!
@@capohd28 I actually get the occasional cut at the stump that takes the whole bar, but the real reason I got it was because it lets me cut stuff on the ground without bending over.
I bought an 026 Farm Boss thirty years ago. Still runs great!
As a homeowner you don’t need a pro saw until you try one. I cannot imagine working with something else than my 550xp Mark II, insane power, fast cutting, lightweight and well designed. If you can afford go get one. They can last a lifetime with normal use and regular maintenance.
You said the magic words - “regular maintenance!” 👍
Waste of money, why do you need insane power rather than an adequate amount, or especially light weight, or especially well designed instead of same average design everything else has? You don't, this is some user deficiency in pretending that overkill matters, unless of course, you are misleading by writing "as a homeowner" and you're cutting far more wood than even the upper 20% of homeowners who don't burn it as fuel.
I have a Stihl 180 C and does everything I have to do around the home . You can run as big as a 16 in chain ,,and pitch is very important too ,,mine is a 3/8 th pitch .
@@stinkycheese804 Put a sock in it chum
More true words never been said.
First cut with 261. "Dad we should have bought this a decade ago."
Dave and Dony hit on couple keys, clean your saw and maintain it. Add always keep/ use sharp chain and use non-ethonl fuel mix, especially with limited use or better still use Motomix, TruFuel or other canned fuel. Your saw and carb will love you. Investing in a case will protect your saw and keep it clean. With proper care, any saw will serve you for many years and enjoyable to use.
Recently bought a DeWalt 12v 12" cordless chainsaw. What a great little saw! Works fine for my small 1/4 acre property.
I bought an Oregon 18" chainsaw, 15-amp corded, also works excellent, lots of power, and comes with a chain sharpener built in.
my boy just got one they are nice for what he has to cut
@@Monza62000 And a LOT quieter than a gas powered saw! No ear protection needed. Keep an eye on your chain oil levels though, it goes faster than you think.
The only pro saw that I have I dug it out of the trash 10 years ago it’s an MS 260 and I put a chinesium top end and all has been great. Good info here don and Dave!
I have a 290 farm boss that I’ve had for years, it’s made for ‘cutting’ wood. I have a 20” bar an I run their yellow chipper blade. Use the greatest stihl 2-1 chain sharpener. 👍👍
Matt
Agree with what you're saying but there are several huge advantages in stepping up to a Pro Saw even for a homeowner. 1. The pro saws have way better power to weight ratios. 2. Pro saws are so much easier to work on. You can almost do an entire top end rebuild with a couple tools on the tailgate of your truck. 3. There is a huge aftermarket following for the Pro saws. (much more so then consumer saws). Parts can be easier to find and way cheaper then being forced to buy expensive OEM parts.
10 cords a year is crazy! A buddy lives in Minnesota and only uses 6 cords on average. I bought a 211c but didn’t realize a 261c is 1.7 HP more in juice and only .7 lbs heavier. Obviously $300 more but I’m sure gets through the thicker trunks faster and a 18” bar actually sticks out 18” vs only 16.5” sticking out on my 211c with a 18” bar which is helpful
own a ms271 and cut almost 30 cord this year,without a hiccup. 2nd year ive owned it . now own 2-271's and a 261 , plus 2 smaller 40 cc saws
@@kenberscheit948 30 cords! 🤯🤯🤯
Thanks guys. Yes a well made smaller saw works well for an older person too.
I have the MS181 which has been fine for many years. In my opinion most important thing is to sharpen the chain frequently. I mean after 1-2 tanks of running and even more often if you hit dirt, rock or metal. I have 3-4 chains for each of my saws; I rotate them and sharpen often. I recently also bought the MS271 which is more powerful but also much heavier. Both are plastic framed saws but the plastic used is very strong and durable. If one is worried about this aluminum bottom protective shields are available in ebay - or you can make one yourself. Motors are metal on both contrary to internet rumors stating that the crankcase is plastic - not true. This misconception probably comes from the fact that Stihl calls the frame or cradle the motor is installed in a crankcase in some documents. The actual motor crankcase is infact metal (aluminum or magnesium?). I haven't checked other models but I believe this is the fact for all Stihl consumer and landowner line saws.
Good advice, listen to what someone else's needs are and find out what they need and base your recommendation on what will work best for them. I have 3 acres and lots of big trees that need to, have, come down I started out with the ms 271, great farm and ranch saw cut 20in logs no problem. For me it's a little heavy to run all day so I got an ms 250, biggest home saw its great for limbing and for most homeowners it would be more than capable of handling all cutting needs. But, alas I have some tees bigger than 20in so I got the biggest saw i can handle the ms 462, pro saw, ones you go pro you will never go back. I then got ms193t pro and tought myself how to climb trees with flippline, spikes and saddle. I needed a lighter but powerful two handed saw up a tree so I finished of with the ms261 pro saw lol. Keep up the good work.
I had an 026 for years along with a 455 rancher and just picked up a MS462 and I can say is the 462 is in another league.The 026 is a great saw just small for large trees. The Husky 455 is a pro-consumer saw I think its made pretty cheap. It work OK but you can tell where they cheap out. I have a bunch of large red oak trees and the 026 and 455 both struggled. The 462 just eats it up and wants more. Its a very well made masterpiece of a chainsaw.
I'm just a homeowner who cuts about 7 cords of firewood a year and I would say if you can afford a pro saw then go with it. You'll have it for the rest of your life if you take care of it.
Pro saws are nice, but for what I need and use it for, my Echo CS370 works just fine. I’ve used that little saw on everything from limbing any trimming, to 8”-10” pine trees, to a 20” cherry. A lot of grunt in it, especially once I got the carb dialed in.
I have an Echo CS-400, works perfect for me around my place. . Light, revs to the moon.. lol fast chain speed. Ease of maintenance. If I were a professional soyur I would own a Stihl pro series. Definitely worth that investment.
The answer is yes, current pro saws are what good normal saws used to be. Metal cases and quality components!
I bought an MS 170 with a 16" bar a few years ago because I had a few small dead trees to chunk up and some alders and brush to clean up on my 3-1/2 acre property. I thought it was a nice saw, cut good, fairly light, easy to control etc. Then I had a few larger trees that were too much for the 170, so I bought an MS 250 with an 18" bar...my first cut was almost scary...lol. The way it "chewed" into the wood was amazing in comparison. ;-)
I like both of those saws and each has a place in the sawing I do here...can't imagine needing a pro saw or my needs at least.
Cheers from NB
As always, your advice serves the viewer very well! Well done, guys! 👍👍👍
Our pleasure!
my dad's been cutting chords of wood every year for, probably as long as i've been alive, using a combination of an MS180C, and an MS 390, The 180, finally crapped itself after a couple and got a 171 to replace it and we still get by with these cheaper saws
I have a MS 251 for about 6 years and is been great....I just got a MS 400 for bigger stuff and it's great as well.
I've got my Husqvarna farm & ranch grade saws. They work very well for farm use. Killed a few home owner saws over the years. I would consider a professional saw if they discontinued the farm & ranch grade.
Thank for the great information.
Donyboy73 do I need a pro Kombi system if I’m using it for power broom, brush cutting, pole saw, and hedge trimming? I got the low end one called km 56 rc-e
I agree too certain degree. I have both. I grab them based upon what I am cutting. If I am cutting and bucking up big hard wood I usually grab a big Pro saw, if I have lots of big wood to cut. If I am just cutting small stuff or limbing up small stuff I will grab my MS 170, 171 or 180. For medium size stuff I will grab my MS 250, MS 251 or 026 Pro. For real big stuff I get my MS 440, MS 360or H372. If I just wanted one saw it would be my MS 250 or 026 Pro. I hate my MS 251 because it is the hardest to start saw that I own.
Great video Dony and Dave!!!
I have a ms 271 for my house it does exactly what I need it to. It's a little much for what I cut ever so often but I've had a few trees that fell during storms that we're almost 20in in diameter so my 271 farm boss with a 20in bar does really good.
Farm boss is a beast
I love mine. It’s a monster
I had a MS271 for about five years and felled and bucked many hundreds (if not 1000s) of trees. Last year I bought an MS261 and sold the 271. The 1/2 hp additional power combined with a half pound lower weight of the 261, as compared to the 271, really does make a difference when I’m clearing hazard and fallen trees from the rail trails. Recently I cleaned up a seven tree pile where a sizable walnut up rooted and knocked down and/or broke six other trees. I ran the 261 and my MS461 steadily for two hours… I really appreciated the lower weight and speed of the 261 that day!
@@johngrossbohlin7582 yes sir I definitely understand that well you just becareful out there and stay safe
I had a question? I've got a john deere gt235 that I've converted from the stock 18hp briggs vanguard vertical shaft engine to a cub cadet ZT1054 26hp kohler command pro engine, all wiring works good!!! I've been wanting to know? It gets well over 200 degrees in the hood and for being an open area engine from the zero turn, I thought it wouldn't last as long being that hot. I don't know if I should add a tempature sensor and put the end of it in the other drain plug? Would that hurt anything? And if I put a 10 inch cooling fan on top of the engine to suck the hot air out, will it keep any cooler and will it last longer?and yes the hood has heat vents
I have an Stihl 023 old school but great saw never missed a beat
Thanks Don/ Dave Great Info once again
I have the MS 250 and love it!!
Hi Donyboy. I bought an 029 second hand about 20 years ago for around the yard (about an acre) in Australia. (Hard woods) Cut a couple of cords of wood per year. It stihl runs well. I've only replaced minor parts;bar,chains clutch drum and sprockets fuel lines, filters and spark plugs. I always keep the chain sharp and the saw clean. As a non pro saw it owes me nothing.
I went with a MS211. Good little saw. If I did it again I would get a couple steps up. Especially a larger bar. Sometimes 16" is just a tad small.
it's a peppy saw though!
I have the best of both worlds. I have a Ms170, 171 and 180 but I also have the pro equivalent - my ms 241C-M. It is a little bigger than the other three but it cuts well and is a solid metal saw. It also has a better air filter, deco valve, but with the same length bar with .050 chain on it, unlike the .043” gage chain found on the other three. It is also pretty light, about 10#.
Good stuff Danny I bought a 180 at the dealer I live in the suburbs doing gardening jobs ,180 is perfect ,
For the typical home owner with only occasional use and typical "neglect", the opton to have one of the rechargeable saws should be considered. Especially so if the owner already has compatible other rechargeables.
List price for the MS291 in Australia is $1099 , they call it one of the "landowner" range which is between homeowner and pro . We always seem to pay through the nose here in Oz.
I’m in Aus too. I looked at this saw but as you go up the range you get so much more saw for your buck. Needless to say I ended up parting with $1800 for a MS462
I started with a McCullough 850, when I was about 30. Then a Stihl 028. Then two Stihl MS170’s (one stopped oiling so I bought another). The 170 is light but powerful enough. I’ve cut big trees with it - just takes longer.
I’ve got a 290 that we got during an ice storm and it has been a good saw for the past 15 years. Some years it gets almost no use, some years it cuts up 4 or 5 whole trees especially with storm damage.
Say I look after an island management. I cut about 12 cord a year. Can I get Way with a used 0 series saw or should I get a newer 1 series? Don, do you know anyone local to you that has used saws that ships?
Stihl farmboss 271 has done fine for me. Just use truefuel and bar chain oil. Good to go!
Fun fact: stihl has/had a chainsaw selector on their website to help buyers narrow the saws down.
Stihl still does.
Don’t listen to it . Always go a step up from what they say and go pro if you can
Great video once more, I Have a stihl 025 chainsaw i bought in 2000
I would recommend a top handle chainsaw :) After I bought one it has been my main chainsaw :) It is light, can be used with only one hand and it is suprisingly powerful.
Top handles are nice (have 020T) but REALLY need to use extreme caution.
I ended up getting a pro level saw because it was a discontinued model and like a 1/3 off. Stihl makes the parts for the saw for 20 years after its discontinued. So for me it was a no brainer.
The way I see it most of the time is that is better to have more power than what you need but do not exaggerate neither.
My view is you never regret buying quality and for me the generally far better power to weight, build quality, durability, longevity, resale, and feel of top end saws justifies the cost. The poor man pays twice. Pro saws for me thanks.
Hey dony I recently bought a echo cs400 used it only turns on when I press the gas and turns off as soon as I release it. What could it be a dirty carb or does it need tuning
You might want to try adjusting the idle up a bit. Also you could try turning in the low just a bit. Just mess with it till it’s right get a feel for it
Pretty soon I'm not going to need a pro saw anymore. Can't wait!
What saw would you recommend for chainsaw milling with an Alaskan Mill? 20-24” bar length
ms660 husqvarna 3120 or 372xp
Thank you!!
If you are cutting trees with trunks nearing 2 feet in diameter, you need at least 70+ cc's and up to move the chain on a 22 inch or longer bar...if you are thinking of bucking that up into rounds you want an even bigger saw and longer bar.
If you are an average homeowner, cutting up branches and a few small trees under 12 inches, a 40-45 cc saw and a 16" bar will do just fine.
If you are putting up a couple (2-5) cords of wood yearly spread out over the year, then a 45-70 cc saw and a 16-20 inch bar is all you need.
The secret is to TOTALLY CLEAN THE SAW AFTER HEAVY USE and keep proper chain tension and flip the bar for even wear and KEEP THAT CHAIN SHARP.
Although I own several Echo and Stihl pro saws, my go to saw for general cutting has become an $89.00 Chinese chain saw which has worked flawlessly for me for the last couple of years now.
wow!
I have a Stihl 180 C and does everything I have to do around the home .
I have an 029 and an MS170.. it's a great combination
Same here. Good one two punch.
Got my ms 500i. Everyone needs one! Saw rips!
Dry hard wood is the worst of what I cut. Just bumped it up a size when I bought saws with adjustable oil pumps.
Went from a 211C to a 462C....man talk about night and day! Can cut way more wood in an hour now!
What do you think of the CS-590 Echo Timber Wolf? I do about 7 cords a year.
I cut a few cords every year to feed the maple syrup evaporator. I had a Craftsman 40cc for several years. After it died I bought a Husqvarna 550 XP Mark II and found out what I was missing. It takes a fraction of the time to cut the wood with the Husky. Like anything else get the best you can afford
I own a 192T and a MS250. What do you think of the MS250?
The MS170 is lite weight compared to the larger ones. If your clearing underbrush weight matters. You don't need all the power of the pro saws and a long heavy bar. The shorter bar can be safer, and easier to handle. The MS170 has a reduced kick back chain as well. Helping to make it a little more safer compared to the pro saws.
I use my saws for the home and I burn 14 face cords of wood per winter in Michigan. I cut with a MS230 and MS251 Wood Boss.
I run a ms251 cutting firewood.
Thank you for the video 👍🇿🇼
I don't have a pro saw (ms211) and I run that saw essentially every weekend cleaning wind damage and firewood (78 acres). It works fine. That being said, I'm going to clear up to 3 acres of pine trees and it will be a pro saw. Some of the trees are 30" DBH and I want the HP to drive a long bar. The average person doesn't need the pro level saw.
I yous to be a Automotive mechanic But now i'm a diesel mechanic, I work on construction equipment, farm equipment, looging equipment, rail equipment, trucks, pickup trucks. Love your Chaneel 👍👍👍👍👍🤝🤝🤝🤠🤠🤠🤠🤠🔧🔧🔧🔧🔧
You guys are great 👍🤝
Like all your videos .thanks. Wish you would have had a professional type saw there with you and explained more the difference I have four still saws. But don’t really know what’s the difference . Price I am shure. From the professional grade.
How about a video w/Dave about riding mowers for homeowners? Thanks
Fine tutorial. In all depends on the need, the desire to have a pro working tool, and ease of maintenance of pro tools. The not so simple attached nuts make any job so much easier and simpler in winter. Like dropping bar nuts in the snow. And of course age. I've cut down over the years from 20" bars to 16" ( yes you can drop a 30" DBH with a 16" bar ) for the weight, ease of sharpening and bar maintenmance. The quiver now for 6-8 cords of firewood a year, trail clearing, hot tub softwood, and woodlot management is : all Stihl MS261, MS170, 009L.
The CLP course in Maine made primarily for professionals was worth the time for both efficiency and safety. Hard to get why so many chainsaw users here and online do not use PPE. Dumb.
Gentlemen if income allows buy the highest quality. The Reason high quality items never loose all value. I have bought and sold used high quality items as a hobby. Many quality used items sell more today than purchased four years ago. Inflation is a major game changer. Prices of quality will go rapidly and continue to rise. Excellent video as always.
Could not agree more. I cut a lot of wood and have for years. I only run pro saws because they are leaps and bounds better than the equivalent homeowner saw, and last for years. I would lean toward a smaller pro saw for home use.
And time matches on, along with prices - the retail in Canada on the 291 is $650 now.
I AGREE!!.....ms291 is the perfect Farm saw... I took down multiple 40" trees and cut them up, in 100 Deg heat!.....5 hours straight!.....and caught the grass on fire many times........of course that saw was definitely small for those jobs, it never stalled or over heated!!
The 170 is great. Does Magic
I'm a home owner who cuts a lot of fire wood my collection is Husky L65, Stihl MS194t, MS250, MS271, MS290, and 440 Magnum. and i have to restrain myself from buying a new 660 when i see one come in to the shop.
Because of how they are constructed they are easier to fix, replace parts, etc. So even if you dont know how to yourself..
Your dealer will be able to more easily service your saw instead of saying toss it and buy a new one
Sur ma MS170, j'ai mis une chaîne et une plate Oregon plus grosse et cela fait une différence!
No problem with stihl but love my mac 3200.2o years old like the video
Nice video ... You have to start some were ...How about a beginner video on how and what options there are to sharpen the chain.
DeWalt chainsaw, awesome in my opinion for the homeowner!!
Don, i have 2 jonsereds, one is a 1984 510sp that has never had any problems and for 20 yrs i cut 10 cord of spruce and birch every year. The other is the CS2138C turbo, also no issues at all. I notice they are very rarely noticed by any small engine videos on CZcams where the Stihl is put on a pedestal.
What is your opinion on jonsered saws or would you just have the stihl.
The Echo CS-590 is superior to the MS291 in pretty much every way, and for less money.
I built my log cabin with a 026... replaced it with a 260pro.... sits in my garage mostly... in 1990 I bought a "Poulan wildthing" on clearance at FF ... the broke into my cabin garage twice and opened up the case and left it....lol!! The best saw! One they won't steal.... The pro saw is nice but a sharp chain is better... what is the difference??
I was planning on one more saw, a good one, before I get too old. I've been using old blue Homerlights for the last 15 or 20 years and most recently, a Crapsman 18" Poulan which has served pretty good. My concern now is will the Stihl 170/180 be that much better? I paid a little over $200 for a Crapsman in the late 80s and got 10 years use out of it and sold it on Flea bay for $75! Would I be happy with the MS170/180 SAWS?
I have used a few ancient homelite models, a 35cc power-mac (similar to 16”poulan) and older stihls/huskies for firewood. My ms180 is by far the most comfortable and easy to handle when limbing, and works fine for a bit of firewood too.
Yes
I have an MS390 with a 20” Rollomatic bar and full chisel chain. Did a muffler mod and adjusted the fuel mix screws to bring up the rpms by 500. It’s a beast. It’s a pound heavier than the pro 360-361-362, and holds slightly less fuel, but otherwise performs as well as the pro saw.
Unless I were sawing day in and day out, I couldn’t justify spending the extra $200-300 for the pro saw.
Btw, I bought my saw used. I wouldn’t mod a new one. Wait til the warranty expires.
If you are homeowner i will recomand ms 170,but if you fall trees than you need 362
I don't need ... but I want a pro-level chainsaw like the 261c-m to complement my old trusty 180c which is adequate for my needs for many years. People don't need many things but we want .....
Get the 261. Great all around saw will last forever. I have the previous version, the 260. The only saw I need.
Actually I am on the fence between the Stihl 261 c-m and the Husqvarna 550xp, mark II. And I don't need either one having the old 180c .... but I want
I do have the MS 291. I find that it has plenty of power but the chain isn't very aggressive. I can lean into it but it just doesn't cut that much. I also have an older 024 Wood Boss. It has a scored cylinder so I plan to replace the jug and piston as well as the crank seals. Somebody installed the bar wrong and pushed the pin to adjust it into the oil tank. I picked up a case half for $25 so will replace that as well. I think the 024 might outperform the 291.
Sounds like the problem with your MS 291 isn't the power head but the chain. Check out the saw sharpening videos. If your cutters are sharp then check your depth gauges since they are what control how much wood is fed to the cutters. The larger the difference between your depth gauges and your cutter the more aggressive the cut and the more load on the power head. The more aggressive the cut the more careful you have to be to avoid kick back and overloading the power head. If you hit rock or dirt either switch to a new chain or touch up what what you have. A stump vise is very handy.
@@frankenberry9670 I agree that it's the chain. I've filed the rakes with a guide and I've used new chains. I avoid getting into dirt or dirty bark. With a new chain, I've never gotten the chips I expect. At least it's not just sawdust