John Deere X320 Transmission fluid change without removing body.
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- čas přidán 28. 08. 2024
- This is a "poor man's oil change" - not draining the whole transmission, but you can pull 1/2 to 3/4 of the old fluid out and replace it with clean oil. Considering the John Deere says this transmission is not serviceable, I found just cleaning it up should give me a lot more transmission life. And this is a 2 bolt, 30-minute job. This is part one of two, I also give you a tip on how to add more horsepower to the Kawaski 675cc engine that comes in the 320 to make it perform like an x500 for under $100.
I was able to pump 1 quart from my x300 using an electric suction pump after removing the breather and magnetic cap. Measure the oil level before starting as a back up by creating a “dip stick” as suggested. supposedly there are 2 quarts of oil in the trans axel case. Mine looked well used after 375 hours, and was running fine. As a bearing Engineer and a lot of gray hair in the industrial power transmission industry With gears, bearing and everything related,, adding Some fresh oil is a wise move to help lengthen service life. Next week I will repeat this procedure and get more of the oil up to a better freshness. Sad they “ seal this for life” and do not let the customer have an option. I would gladly take on John Deere engineers over this one. Thanks for the video, was very helpful. I also realized the front to help derail more oil.
Wow! Robert, you saved my bacon! This is probably best CZcams video I ever ran across! I have a 5 yr old X300 with 230 hours. Transmission had started slipping on hills and growling like crazy under the load. I’ve had 2 spinal surgeries and wasn’t looking forward to going the remove the transaxle route. As you say, that’s the deluxe way with changing all the fluid and cleaning the magnet. This method allowed me to pull of just over a quart of the original fluid which was very dark. I put a quart of 5W50 synthetic in to replace the fluid. It drove like new! After driving it around and climbing some hills I pulled off another quart. Much lighter as you would expect. I added another quart of the 5W50 today. Runs like new now! It doesn’t even know it’s on a hill! No growling, straining or anything. You saved me a bundle of cash and my back! Hope I can repay the favor some day!
Keith Ferguson glad I could help!
Robert Deitz II I may start the season off each year by replacing a quart of fluid!
That straining sound you mean
Keith, the method used by the Honda auto dealers is to drain and fill the transmission three times, driving a bit between each time, since you can't get it all out even using the drain plug. So every time you drain and fill, as you know, results in a higher percentage of new fluid. Take care.
I used a hand pump from a Shout pre wash for laundry. The hand pump has a long tube that's just the right size to get inside the case. I used Quart Mason jars to measure how much I took out. I was able to remove about 1.75 quarts out of it. I then refilled with the exact amount of 20w50 full synthetic motor oil but I added .8oz of Lucas oil stabilizer. I've got over 300 hours on a X300 and over 200 hours on a X350 and the both run as good as new.
The Lucas stabilizer is a good addition.
Thanks for the video Robert. I bought my X320 new in 2010 and did the fluid change with 675 hours on it. It has never ever slipped or slowed down in any way yet, but decided to do the change since I was replacing the tatered drive belt. The fluid was dark as expected but I really would like to replace the internal filter, clean all the magnets and inspect the gears, since I believe I'm on borrowed time? If you ever do pull your tyranny, I hope that you let us know what condition it was in? Thanks again!
For all you naysayers, everytime you get your tranny fluid changed in your vehicle they never get anywhere near all of the fluid. A little here, a little there on a regular basis is perfect just like on your car.
Awesome video
Yep, the Honda dealer does it three times, drain and fill - driving a bit between each one.
@@Perly53 I know for a fact my Honda dealer doesn't I don't think many do
Thanks Robert, nice how to video. I have never changed mine.
Awesome idea! Hey, you’ve extended the life of your transmission in an easy way.
Any time you can refresh fluid it’s not a bad idea. If you can do it in 30 minutes I think it’s worth the time. Thanks!
I have used a pump off a standard spray bottle. Slide 1/4 " hose om the pump handle straw , this works great when fluid is warm, and great for over filled transmissions.
great video very helpful keep up the good work
Improper way to change the oul. There are two fluid chambers in the axle. Removing the axle assembly and draining the oil out of the fill plug.
Thank you my x300 is getting really whiny. Drain, measure, refill it's the same way I do a poor man's job on my Volkswagen DSG, you don't have to use vcds you could just drain measure and refill through the filter in modern vw dsg's
This way does pull out some of the metal shavings and contamination. And with the pump you get almost all out. That is in the case.
Nice video Robert on the X320. I noticed that you have installed a seat cover on yours to no doubt cover up and continue to protect the cracked bottom that is notorious with the John Deere seats. Would you be able to supply me with a possible manufacture name and actual part number for it as I have been trying to locate one for my x320 and have had no luck. Thank You in advance for any help you may be able to provide
Put the tube in the hose of your shop vac, tape it up so that the hose is completely taped to the tube with no leakage. Stick the tube in the hole, turn the shop vac on and watch the magic.
That would be a way to get everything out - great idea!
@@robertdeitz2 I figured that out after I had to replace the transmission in my x320.
@@rsalsman0810 How much is a new K-58?
@@gordbaker896 I think if you buy it from the JD dealer it sells for $1800 or so. I actually found a good used one on eBay.
@@rsalsman0810 Thanks. I ordered a new one from my JD Dealer. $1,321 Can.$ plus 3-4 hours labour. A 1 year warranty if the Dealer does it, 6 months if I install it. New Drive Belt as well. Keeping old parts. Only 1 Trans listed for the X320. K58
I have the exact same mower including the year. It’s starting to have trouble climbing a hill after the transmission is warmed up, in other words when I’m almost finished mowing is when I mow that hill. Would you mind telling me if those were the problems you were having? And did it fix it? Thanks very much
Help request: It would be helpful to see exactly how you filled the oil back up and purged the air. Can you or someone provide help there?
Thank you.
@@m.forrest5603 the opening is big enough for a hose, which I used a pump for from the oil containers. And no need to bleed air - there is an air vent in the case.
How easy is it to remove and replace the rubber burp valve? I'm afraid to take it off and not be able to put it back. I've never messed with one of these it just seems pretty tight so I wanted to check before I try. My 320 is basically stopping up hills now once it warms up.
Robert, with regard to removing the vent plug - how is this done? Use a screwdriver from underneath and pry it up and off? Folks say be careful not to damage or break the plug, so how do you remove it please?
It removes very easy. Yes, use a screwdriver and just pry it off. Then pushes back on. Worse case scenario - which I can’t see happening - you can order a new one from the Deere dealer.
Hey Robert great short cut to save time from doing complete drop of transaxle....do you refill using the same breather hole I would guess YES thanks
Yes, so good to have a couple size tubes handy. And since you can’t see the level important to have empty oil bottles so you can replace exactly what you took out.
One con to this method is you don't get to clean the cruddy magnet underneath the actual fill hole.
I realize that and that would be a good thing to do but that access takes hours. This is pretty good fix with a long life for 30 minutes work.
wish I had done this.Mine locked up at 950 hours.
Is it necessary to get the remaining fluid out with a pump? Seeing a lot of feedback from saying they never even change out the fluid for years and seen no issue
No you do not need to remove all the fluid. This recharges the fluid you have in there.
Will this work on the JDe120 mower?
@@Ittybittythetwofacedkitty the 120 I think is the low end model for like Home Depot and think it has a different differential. Check to see if it has that breather plug on the top. If it does then you can get fluid out from there the same way.
This isn't a "poor mans" fluid change, you aren't saving any money over pulling the trans and changing the right way. It's so easy to pull this trans, I've done it twice. You can have it off and back on in 2 hours. Your trans on this mower will take about 2.2 qts. You can do it, you look capable.
This takes less then 30 minutes. I couldn't get 2.2 qts out but got over half. If I wanted to use a jack and tip the tractor I probably could have gotten almost all. But if you dont want to pull the body off and want to refresh your transmission oil - which John Deere says you do not need to do, this is a quick refresh.
Robert Deitz II wonder if I run the front wheels up on oil change ramps and get the fluids shifted to the back if I’ll get more tranny fluid out with the evacuator? Thoughts?
I don't like taking those off it's harder to do for me and only have scissor Jack's and can only do the work outside in the yard then if it rains or snows I'll get all wet and muddy
This may work if you do tranny fluid suction out before lots of hours. Say do this at every 100 hrs
Thank you
Probably holds 2 quarts, so you got half of it. Not terrible for a halfway job.
Robert: Where is Part 2? I am interested in the performance improvement. What height should tranny fluid be? My X320 is slipping badly, running hot and is 1-3/4" down from top of Vent casting.
here is the link for part 2, read the description - I say the wrong part number in the video but it is correct in the description. Pretty easy swap, big performance improvement.
czcams.com/video/YkZOpKhehkQ/video.html
The fluid in my 2011 X320 looks like new. It measures down 1-3/4" from top of vent tube.
Does anyone know how high it should be? Unit moans and squeals, runs slow and will barely climb hills.
The book says the capacity is 3 quarts, but someone below says 2.2 quarts. Since there is no dip stick on my video I said measure how much you take out to know how much to put back in. And while I have heard you could put in 10-30 if you are just taking some out I would put the same fluid back which I show on the video - the Deere Hydrostatic fluid which I got from the dealer. No more expensive then synthetic oil.
And since your X320 is 10 years old I would try this. I bet the fluid is stressed. Other people on here said a refresh made a big difference.
Good for you by John Deere has been a piece of s*** from the word go
The fluid on my x340 leaking grey on the side... how bad is it
Grey means you probably have water in it. You need to do a full drain and change.
Do you have to drain in order to add new only put 3 hours on it last years
should not need to add with that few hours. Only exception would be if it went under water (which I have done twice!). The vent is not sealed so if you go under water not a bad idea to drain it out.
That's not a bad idea. but I'm gonna be taking off the old gas tank from my L110 once it's off out of my way I'm gonna have plenty of hand room
Im gonna use a shopvac to suck mine out and rotate the gears a little to make sure i get it all out
how did it go..? working on making a video? I have L110 too
The stew pid mans way of partially changing some of the oil without clean the most important parts like the filter and the magnets. You wasted your time. If you can't do it right, then don't do it at all. duh. 🙄