Screw the Rules! Learning the "Why" Behind Menswear Tips
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- čas přidán 3. 07. 2024
- We discuss some of the menswear rules but are these really important? Find out here! gentl.mn/menswear-rules-to-break
#menswear #rules #notsponsored
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→ Madder Print Silk Tie in Yellow with Diamond Pattern: gentl.mn/yellow-madder-silk-d...
→ Ascot in Silver Black Basket Weave Jacquard Silk: gentl.mn/ascot-silver-black-b...
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→ Jasper Silver Solid Brass Belt Buckle: gentl.mn/belt-buckle-silver-j...
→ Dark Havana Brown Calf Leather Belt: gentl.mn/belt-dark-havana-brown
→ Dark Blue & Red Two-Tone Solid Socks: gentl.mn/two-tone-solid-socks...
GUIDES YOU DON’T WANT TO MISS:
→ How To Pair Tie Knots With Shirt Collars: gentl.mn/pair-tie-knots-shirt...
→ Sprezzatura Dos & Don’ts: gentl.mn/dos-donts-sprezzatura1
→ Pleated Pants: gentl.mn/guide-pleated-pants
→ Why Did Men Stop Wearing Pleated Pants?: gentl.mn/men-stopped-pleated-...
→ Is Quality Menswear Dying?: gentl.mn/end-quality-menswear1
→ Blazers + Jeans Outfit Ideas: gentl.mn/outfit-ideas-blazer-...
→ 11 Bad Style Rules To Ignore: gentl.mn/11-bad-mens-style-rules
→ How To Wear Brown & Blue: gentl.mn/matching-brown-blue
→ Belts + Shoes + Metals: gentl.mn/belt-shoes-metal-pai...
→ Men’s Style Review of “Kingsman": gentl.mn/style-review-kingsman
→ Lacoste - Is It Worth It?: gentl.mn/lacoste-poloshirt-re...
→ Sunspel - Is It Worth It?: gentl.mn/sunspel-poloshirts-r...
→ Preston Schlueter Sings!: gentl.mn/preston-sings-jazz1
→ Black Tie Guide: gentl.mn/guide-tuxedo-black-tie
VIDEO CREDITS:
→ Script: Jack Collins & Preston Schlueter
→ Camera & Editing: Lukas Mooney
→ Visual Supervisor: Preston Schlueter & Jack Collins
→ The Walt Disney Company
→ 20th Century Studios
IMAGE CREDITS:
→ Permanent Style
→ One Dapper Street
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00:00 Menswear Rules Introduction
The world of classic menswear is a thoroughly enjoyable place to be - with suits, jackets, shirts, and ties just being the tip of the sartorial iceberg. But, for all of the fun that goes with looking at and wearing classic clothing, some of the conventions can be a real minefield to navigate.
we’ve rounded up some of the biggest menswear rules that you’re likely to have heard of and the reasons why they’ve come to be, and we’ll show you how you can live a more fulfilling life by twisting, bending, or even breaking them.
02:57 Rule #1: There is Only One Exactly “Correct” Tie Length
06:14 Rule #2: Trouser Pleats “must” be forward-facing
08:00 Rule #3: Tweed Jackets can’t be worn with jeans
10:19 Rule #4: “No Brown in Town”
11:53 Rule #5: Brown shoes can’t be worn with a suit
12:57 Rule #6A: All metals “must” match
14:22 Rule #6B: All leathers “must” match
16:53 Rule #7: A “true gentleman” doesn’t own short-sleeved button-up shirts
20:02 Rule #8: Black Tie & White Tie Rules
Those were the several sartorial citations that were sidelined successfully. We’d like to know though, what’s your take on our rule-breaking, and do you have any other rules that you’d like for us to add to the list? Just let us know in the comments below.
22:28 Outfit Rundown - Jak na to + styl
This is a great video. "Rules" should be in fact be faced more as guidelines. If you interpret them as law, it is likely that you'll be second guessing yourself all the time instead of transpiring a comfortable and at ease-with-oneself attitude. "Am I showing enough or too much cuff?", "is the break in my trousers appropriate?", "is my tie well composed?" are the type of obsessions that can totally ruin a style experience. Just make sure that you look is overall harmonious. If you're getting compliments you're doing it right... 99.99999999% of people are no experts in mens style and they won't notice if you're cuff is showing or not, if you tie is 1 cm longer than it should, etc...
Also, hats off for making justice to short-sleeve button downs... I was long overdue in this channel. :)
Good point! A lot of fashion people on the internet get super critical about pedantics like there being too much cuff, or that (my in particular) white tie waistcoat isn't as under-the-front as it should be, as if the ninety-nine percent of people who dress in jeans and tees, wear suits once a year, and think a black tie is the most formal thing a man can wear are going to look at you and go, "Hmm, there's a slight collar gap. What swine!" or that the possibility of encountering a traditional menswear maven at your office party who sees a fault in your wardrobe is worth obsessing over said pedanticisms. Even as someone who considers classic/vintage menswear his greatest passion, I don't think those sort of minute points really make that big a difference.
@@anotheryoutubeaccount5259 right - both are goofy looking; but tucking in the tie is not a good fix for too-long-tie syndrome. By my lights anyway
Tucking the back end of a tie into your shirt to hide it being longer than the front is a classic short-man hack!
Preston rocking that new hairstyle!
Agreed, the hair, glasses and shirt combination is cohesive and charming :)
im jsut glad he shaved
It does look so much better.
The menswear rules are more what you’d call ‘guidelines’ than actual rules, welcome aboard the Gentleman's Gazette
great movie, great character
Lol, I said that to an attending over a patient care rule, once. The look on his face was worth it!
@@noahlarch9696 my favorite character is captain Jack but he is not the best, for me the best character is Barbossa
The black pearl
Just started over the last couple of years trying to dress a little more smartly, I really appreciate what you chaps are doing here. I have always worked manual jobs where practicality, lower wages and youthful laziness have kept me in a rut of jeans, cheap boots and T-shirts for years. I live in the highlands of Scotland and just bought my first Harris tweed jacket and a few cashmere items from Johnstons of Elgin woollen mill. Thank you for all the advice, it's a real help.
Good on you, sir. I know that feeling. Can justify the high cost because quality garments last so long. My first pair of high end shoes is still around, and I wear them to work as beaters. Cost per wear is incredibly low by now, including resole
Learned the "match leathers and metals" rule in my teens as it applied to women's clothing. Gotta choose that wedding band carefully because every other piece has to match metals, and colors of gems have to match, too. Purse MUST match shoes. Which is why all of my shoes are black or brown, or I would need a matching purse for each pair. Another rule I learned as I grew up was to make sure each piece I added to my wardrobe could be worn with several other pieces I already had, which meant a lot of my clothing was (is) blue jeans and tops in various colors and styles. Ever since women abandoned the corset in favor of diet and exercise to create a fashionable silhouette most skirts and dresses do not fit properly. Fast fashion means there is really no timeless or classic look for women.
There is a more timeless look for women, but:
- you won't find it in stores; you either have to sew, be an expert at buying second hand, or have your clothes custom made
- you need to accept the fact that you will never be seen as a fashionable woman
- you also need to accept that you are over dressed almost everywhere, and people will negatively comment
When I work in my (business formal) office, I wear skirts and dresses a lot, but I also wear women's trousers. I usually wear or bring a blazer jacket. My jackets are all from my "first career" in the 1980s and 90s; I bought good quality then so they still work now. I sew skirts, some dresses and tops. I also wear simple jewelry. I avoid fast fashion like the plague.
I was never taught women's fashion rules as a teen, my mom never followed them herself.
The perspective from a female's point of view is something sorely missing from the internet media scene in regards to style verses fast fashion. Valerie and Liz should start their own channel. These comments are great.
I think a lot of men are looking back and realizing something they thought was dead is actually alive and doing fairly well. A guy like me, in Portland Oregon, will get lots of looks by wearing a sports coat, but its almost expected in a way. It may be the case that women would be judged with more scrutiny if attempting a classic look, or simply put, a different from the norm look.
I really like the CZcams channel for when I'm needing some context, to understand better Woman's Style throughout the ages.
I'd say rather that the timeless looks for women have fallen from public view. The breezy summer dress, the smart suit-and-skirt, the elegant sheath, and many more ... in college (this was in the early 1980s) my sister would do dress-up Fridays, often in some of our mom's 1950s outfits, and really turn heads.
@@c.w.9615 No channel from me ... I love my day job and don't have time or mental space to do videos.
Besides, though I dress nicely when in public, I'm un-photogenic. :)
@C.W. @Liz Cademy I am a school librarian in a public arts magnet academy, so eclectic fashion of all kinds is acceptable in my workplace. Cosplay, wild hair, fun makeup, allow it is fair game for our young artists. Us adults usually stay very casual, with jeans, sneakers, and T-shirts, but I have been wishing for easy to alter basic skirts, secret pants, and tops in cotton, linen, and wool. I am a mature woman with gray hair and measurements best described as "ample-adequate-enough" who looks frumpy most days, but I still try to follow Mom's advice. I think a corset would help most of us, not to mold the body as much as to provide a scaffold to give the illusion of a fashionable silhouette for clothing to hang over. There is a reason they are called foundation garments!
The channel is massively helpful in helping me fix my personal style. The tips and guides are really great and I mix them with the indigenous styles and fabrics to recreate the vintage mens fashion looks in my tropical country.
I never had any hand-me-downs from the men in my family, me being taller and larger than them, so I had to build my wardrobe carefully since my 20s.
Keep up the wonderful work gents.
Love Preston! Your sense of humour is priceless, you've grown so much on this channel and your style is more confident & smooth. :>
Short sleeves are actually really popular with old men back here in Taiwan. Even our teacher wears it everyday.
Tweed with jeans is a staple of my daily wardrobe as a Texan country gentleman who works with animals. I had no idea this was a rule… I shall continue to break it.
If you dont already have one, i recommend a wool over/greatcoat for the coldest times in texas. Large state idk where you are but if you are wearing tweed it ought to be pretty chilly at times
Yes. Seeing others wear some form of a necktie is better than nothing. It's nice to see.
Ahh...that's the spirit! Liked the Bond joke...very knotty of you! You might say he was fit to be tied...
Great video! And fun shirt Preston!
To fit in, I observed local men while in southern Mexico.
I noticed they always wore long pants and, if the shirt had tails, it was always tucked in
And, absolutely, tourists who didnt stood out !
Tweed and denim are a great combo I have worn that combo for years.
Very nice! And you still frown upon short sleeve dress shirts. Thank goodness....
One rule/tip I have (generally) stuck to over the years is to wear pants or shorts that are the same or darker colour than than the shirts. (The reasoning being that it draws attention away from feet and legs towards the fresh face)
Having said that. This was a great episode on a conceptual level as it puts most other fashion videos into context
I believe (if not the outfit is a suit) top must be opposite to bottom dark/bright-wise.
Preston, you know there are easier ways to deal with dust. You don't have to resort to hand-to-hand combat.
That is the fun way to deal with it
Yes, I believe that I might enjoy a future video on the rules of dressing.
You are truly a supreme gentleman.
Re: the discussion of short sleeved sport shirts at 16:53 it's worth noting that Ethan M. Wong at "alittlebitofrest" wrote a good article in 2017 about vintage sport shirts in general (the kind with a camp or loop collar) from the 30s, 40s, 50s etc. I'd love to see a video from the gentleman's gazette on that topic some day.
Sgt. Preston, you guys set the Pace! You guys Rule! Thanks Gentlemen!!!
Great Video as always.
Btw: does anyone know which brown fiddleback Oxfords Sven is wearing at 12:42?
Those shoes were made bespoke for him! We've just recently begun a series chronicling their construction; you can find it at the link. Thanks for watching! -Preston
www.gentlemansgazette.com/measuring-bespoke-shoes/?
@@gentlemansgazette Thanks Preston. Hoping they were made to wear, but I'm looking forward to seeing the process.
@@gentlemansgazette How about a video on why men's waistlines for trousers were so high in the past & why over time the waistline dropped down to today's level?
Good to hear. As it has been mentioned here many times, that you all are not fans of short sleeve button up shirts, I'm glad to hear it said out loud that it's ok. Not in my normal rotation anymore, but good to know it shouldn't be off limits as well.
The hair looks great.
When I was a kid * _creak_ * long before you were born, one did not wear brown with black, nor blue with green. And one especially did not mix patterns, such as wearing paisley with plaid.
Also you yelling at Raphael was hilarious. Like the one time you guys spent dressed for golf haha you guys are great. Good show.
Appreciate the more informal outfit here, Preston😄👌
Another useful video! Thanks!
Your new hairstyle looks good on you Preston!
I agree with Pablo Picasso said, “Learn the rules like a pro so you can break them like an artist.” However, I think some people have gone a little far in breaking the rules. I attended the opera recently and there were men wearing jeans and sneakers.
Had they learnt the rules previously, do you think? I agree with Picasso.
Many thanks for the quote
Great video! Rules change from place to place, as well. I wasn't lucky enough to be able to go, but looking at pictures from the recent Pitti Uomo menswear convention in Florence, Itally, it seems that the latest spretzatura style is to leave the narrow end of your tie several inches longer than the front. I haven't started doing that because absolutely nobody in the US does (yet) but I wouldn't tell an Italian dandy that he was badly dressed.
I have loved jeans with tweed jackets since I was a boy.
I agree with most of what has been said. Just pairing tweed with denim does not look right. As blue jeans over the course of time tend to fade out, it just looks shabby.
Totally agree and such a great video in perspective as to why I also agree.
Thanks For Mentoring Me,,,,
Watching you videos Really inspired me to enhance my classic style (which I use on daily basis) & Greatly helped me with my "Professional Personal Branding".
Your Channel has tought me alot like " the importance of pocket squares, tie clippers & Various suit accessories" .
I'm Egyptian & I Wish I can find "Fort Belvedere" porducts here in Egypt.
Please Keep Up The Good Work ...
Bless You All ❤️❤️❤️
Recently I discovered your CZcams channel and it has jogged my memory regarding all the fashion rules my mother taught me many years ago. Quality was a big one, proper attire, color, length etc. and care of fabric.
Your views on womens clothing is spot on and very frustrating. I listen to various womens channels only to feel how fleeting womens fashion is. I don't get that from your channel. It pulls me into a more realistic mode for purchasing season to season.
Thank you Preston. You are a true gentleman.😂😂
Those are gorgeous shoes, Preston.
The red gloves Raphael wore with that suit, i really liked that look, real cool and classy .. nice job Raphael
There's always exception to every rule, I personally prefer a three button jacket and I'm only 5'11" Tweed with chinos works better than denim imo
Brilliant content lads
FYI, your hair looks better this way than the side slick style, but you do you and keep it coming.
8:53: "Tweed suits in their heyday were just as casual as denim jeans are today."
Is there a name for this pattern of workwear and outdoor clothing--tweeds, jeans, down jackets--gradually gaining cachet and becoming respectable?
Preston is the hero we need
so agree here with the short sleve shirts, theres so handy during summer fyi
Wow u have transformed. Keep it
Its mainly guidelines for people getting started, once you become more established and discover your own style theres certain rules you can break.
I always did feel bad about short sleeve button up shirts. Then my girl gave me I e and I’m like “but where are the sleeves”. All to the weather. Good show guys.
I would like to know about hat colors with suit colors personally …… love the information in all your videos
Some people say hat colors and suit colors shouldn't ever match, and that was generally the case in The Golden Age. I personally think that a dress hat and suit in a similar shade is fine. Navy hats with navy suits, stuff like that. Grey hats with navy suits work, but avoid brown hats with non-earth tones. In the summer, it can be particularly elegant to wear mismatching hat colors from your suits (tan boaters with white suits, white Panamas with tan suits, etc.). Avoid black hats with colored outfits, but wear black hats with black outfits. This generally means that you'll wear a black homburg with black tie, a stroller, or a funeral suit, but skip it with a charcoal or navy suit. As a somewhat obscure detail, with full morning dress, only wear your light grey felt top hat in summer and with a light grey morning suit. Fortunately, Royal Ascot happens in summer, so most people are good to go with that.
I love short sleeve dress shirts I don't care if people say they are not too terribly stylish I love them I love wearing short sleeve dress shirts cuz I have leftover ones from when they are being sold at Walmart I know you're going to scoff at that but you know I like short sleeve dress shirts I really don't care if anyone doesn't like them I like them and every man should be able to choose whatever clothing he prefers short sleeve dress shirt is because I live in Tennessee where is hot all the time so yeah
God bless you, guys
Preston’s jaw is stunning, his eyes are also cute, he is handsome
My husband has not owned or wore a short sleeved shirt in more than 20 years.
The linen cotton blend short sleeve shirts from Old Navy and Banana Republic are perfect for summer. And are fairly affordable... much more affordable than 100% linen 17:00
New subscriber and love your channel. I wish I could find something similar for women...
On a sidenote Preston, your hairdo is great!
I'm surprised, that you didn't discuss the matching tie and pocket square controversy? (Found ton of colour photos of; Charlie Parker, Cab Calloway, Frank Sinatra, Hank Williams, Hank Snow, Eddie Cochran, Chuck Berry, Elvis, and Duke Ellington with matching ties/bow ties, and pocket Squares, on everything from Zuit Suits, Double Breasteds, Nudie Cohen Vintage Western Wear, to Shark Skins. Laws and bones are meant to be broken. Sartorial Rules aren't always Bespoken.(chorus of a jazz original). Cheers from SpoCanada.
Those chucks at 14:46!
Nice vid. You r becoming masterful.
You should do a video Iron on no Brown in town
I really like his hair style in this video, he looks younger and more casual.
I would like a video about Irish Shirts, they are very nice
You referenced "Oxfords Not Brogue" thing they Said in the movie Kingsman in a questioning tone. I wonder if the code they were using just needed words or if they were comparing the ever so elegant Oxford shoe against the Civil War Period Issue Brogans.
Do you guys have a video on suspenders or braces? I think a lot of people like me are interested.
Hey Preston, I know this is a little off the topic of this video, but the closeups of your shoes reveal that you walk with a pretty heavy heel strike. It made me curious as to whether you use heel plates to lessen the wear or just deal with the maintenance as the need arises?
How do you put together your days outfit. Do you start with the shoes, shirt, jacket etc.
Tweed jackets look great with dark wash blue jeans.
Preston is the tip of the satire-al iceberg
What about the sometimes/always/never when applied to suit jacket buttons?
I I wear is suit or jumper or Oxford shirt
Question? Should I wear a cummerbund and a black waistcoat at the same time? As I have a pair of trousers with a single stripe glossy finish as the the trouser matt (Tuxedo it think) and a shore lepal (Glossy) I think it is part of a tuxedo? Also I am looking for a CZcams video on how to where (tuxedo) and what not to wear, can you help me?
As in the last few years, I now wanting to be a chap/gentleman, not just a bloke (something the cat dragged in), since I was 18 (late 1980''s) I had no idea how to dress like a chap until now when I discovered CZcams 1st Gentlemans Gazette (sorry), now i watch (and download) The Chap's Guide, as I am an Australian! 😀
I wanna hear this cat sing now. I knew that glass jaw had a purpose. Boogie on mate. Can u do one about drumming suits? That one is difficult.
I didn’t know Preston was married! 😮
LOL, the dust! xD
You have validated my basic concept of combining different styles so I have a good look.
Preston looks a lot sharper with his neck visualised. Better than with ties and bowties.
Preston, excellent informative video as always. I want to compliment your hairstyle. It’s a softer style that looks great on you! Also the reddish tones in your hair are quite attractive. And no, I’m not hitting on you, I just wanted to tell you, you look great in this video.
I concur. He does look highly dashing in this video.
I never cared about matching metals. My wedding band signet rings’re different metals.
I wear black oxeford shoes with All my dark suits
We’re just putting back on the kings uniform to fight the next day. The formality in it seems to be direct from the military cuts. No I’m not the waiter.
yes about the short sleeve shirts. I don't get why people who are otherwise OK with T-shirts and polos explode in rage at the sight of a short-sleeve button down shirt. It's just a few more buttons than a polo. I'm never going to stop, you can take my chemisettes (what we call them in france) from my cold, dead hands.
What about no notched labels on double breasted jackets?
You know I chew like short sleeve dress shirts it'll actually like short sleeve dress shirts they're very good when you want to wear a tie but it's too hot to wear a dress shirt can like I mentioned I live in the south for Pete's sake so during the summer here gets hot cuz I can't really complain I don't really live in Florida sorry autocorrect had autocorrect that it's at so yeah I do enjoy short sleeves dress shirts I wear them at times I'll wear them with ascots I saw it on some movies from the '60s and I've been some movies from the '50s and actually kind of like that and here's the thing the reason why is because again like I said most men wear is considerably more for the cold climates then you say the warm climates bye
Let's say about that rule protrusions when doesn't have any short sleeve shirts call Shenanigans on this because here's the thing when it's summer and it's hot out especially where I live I live here in the south so it gets hot here having short sleeve shirts is definitely very a very comforting fact that I will still be able to wear a button I'm sure and not feel hot like here's the thing and since she works for people that work in a more hotter climate and the reason why this rule is I this is my theory overall I think the reason why is because most men's wear like you said is mostly indoctrinated in more Northern or English weather so it's more cold which I will be glad to feel again when winter returns just saying bye
So basically people owned capsule wardrobes In the past ?
I'm imagining the gasps on seeing someone wearing a denim jacket and jeans with a shirt made of tweed.
Why is Preston having a dinner date with Raphael’s wife lol? 😉😂
The “Air Tie” or “Invisible Tie” look (Formal shirt fully buttoned without a tie) seems to be against the fashion rules. I love to see it and wear it.
Likewise,, wearing a formal / dress shirt untucked.
Lots of younger guys sport the look.
07:14 you must iron linen damp
But I have a chest full of medals. I can’t match all the orders. Also as long as it covers my tattoos.
1
how about the rule that french cuffs need a tie?
Next Video - Outfit for college..? Please GG
👍🏻
whenever someone tells me i can't wear X, Y or Z, my instant response;
Post Fizeek Noob
I appreciate the human aspect of the bloopers in your videos, but at this point they get kind of old. Any chance that you might consider putting the bloopers at the end of the video following the outfit breakdown for those of us who prefer a more seamless video?
1:11 "...more what you call guidelines, than actual rules."
I _can_ say it better: Rules are contextual.
I never liked the look of short sleeve shirts with a tie. Even worse a tie with a denim shirt or flannel shirt.
Preston, i absolutely love that shirt on you
*BLAM* "The Code is LAW!" - Capt. Teague
Please forgive me but have you done something to your hair Preston?
Great video, and I truly enjoyed it. Thank you