Not a good idea to press the tip of the blade into your thumb when sharpening a secateurs (on video at 11 seconds to 20 seconds). Applies to any sharp tool. Some dialogue would be good too, especial to explain why and how the 'underside' of the blade is being worked, so that people don't ruin the blade by overworking this side of the blade.
Beim 23 Gradschliff bildet sich ein hauchdünner Metallgrat, im Sonnenlicht gut zu sehen. Dieser Grat sollte entfernt werden damit er die Gegenklinge nicht abstumpft - auch wenn diese exzellent gehärtet ist, wird sie doch beschädigt und die Schneidleistung lässt nach. Außerdem kippt der Metallgrat beim ersten Schnitt sowieso um, was eine sofortige Verringerung der Schärfe bei den nächsten Schnitten bewirkt. Bei korrektem Schliff hält die Klinge bei üblichen Schneidarbeiten einen ganzen Tag durch. Zwischendurch jedoch mit Ballistol Harzlöser reinigen (Vorsicht, ist nicht gut für die Haut!) und Klingen ölen. Pflegemittel und Putzlappen sollten also immer griffbereit sein. Ich nehme für Harzlöser und Öl getrennte Lappen, der für Harzlöser fliegt ganz schnell in den Müll, der für Öl reicht einen ganzen Sommer. Im Umgang mit diesen Scheren gilt: "Messer, Gabel, Schere, Licht - gehören in Kinderhände nicht". Ein Finger kann mühelos abgeschnitten werden. Und nochwas: Eine FELCO kann immer so exakt eingestellt werden, dass die Klinge nicht auseinandergedrückt werden kann und meine FELCO 11 läuft im Freischnitt fast ohne Widerstand. Peter, Malermeister - Hobbygärtner seit 40 Jahren, denn die Lebensfreude wächst mit
using google translate: When grinding at 23 degrees, a wafer-thin metal ridge forms, which is easy to see in sunlight. This burr should be removed so that it does not dull the counter blade - even if it is excellently hardened, it will still be damaged and the cutting performance will decrease. In addition, the metal burr will tip over during the first cut anyway, causing an immediate reduction in sharpness on the next cuts. If sharpened correctly, the blade will last a whole day for normal cutting work. In between, however, clean with Ballistol resin remover (be careful, it's not good for the skin!) and oil the blades. Care products and cleaning cloths should always be at hand. I use separate rags for the resin remover and oil, the one for the resin remover quickly goes into the trash, the one for the oil lasts a whole summer. When using these scissors, the following applies: "Knives, forks, scissors, lights - do not belong in children's hands". A finger can be easily cut off. And another thing: A FELCO can always be adjusted so precisely that the blade cannot be pushed apart and my FELCO 11 runs with almost no resistance when cutting freely. Peter, master painter - hobby gardener for 40 years, because the joy of life grows with you
My thoughts: sharpening at any angle generates a burr and leaving the burr to fracture by cutting (tool use) will quickly result in a very dull blade. honing the back of the blade will facilitate the correct burr removal. this is normally done flush (parallel) to the back of the blade ((eg chisel)) so why a 5 degree relief on the rear of the blade? my gut feeling: the secateurs are shears ie metal blade rides metal anvil. the 5 degree rear relief will reduce cutting edge contact with the anvil prolonging blade sharpness. it will also reduce anvil wear. Smart design for quality tools that are used in arduous professional environments. what they are up to 11 seconds in is still bit of a mystery. I have several guesses but am not prepared to stick my neck out online. Some words in many languages from the manufacturer would be well appreciated! :-j
Well, I got you, but I believe it is also important to see the POV of both, the designer and the product users. Most of the time we can learn from both of them. And God bless to whom ever invented the diamond coated files. the only and best tool for sharpening pruners. Best regards From Costa Rica
Frank, I find your questions hard for anyone here to give you an answer. You will have to go to the manufacturer. I have been sharpening pruners for many, many years and the diamond files are without any doubt the best tool for this application. The one shown here is made by Felco. I do not buy it because of the high price, it is a Felco product. I have used with excellent results the one made by DMT blue handle. DMT make coarse,medium and fine grits. blue is medium grit. Use the fine for my pocket knives.
@@horaciocastillo1435 I wrote to them, no response. I also wrote to the importer all they responded was it's diamond. well, duh. I have one already but I'd like to know the grit so I can buy a bigger stone of the exact same grit for other use. Grit size is numerical, not vague medium or fine.
@@FrankEdavidson Dear Frank. With this diamond stones or plates or files there is one reason why the manufacturers do not use the grit number, As this plates get worn down the grit changes from the original to a finer grit. At the end of their life they end up on a finer grit that when new one, The sharpening stones preserve the original grit til the end. So if you buy a medium diamond plate at the end you will have a fine grade diamond plate. Just bought the DMT 3x8 red fine and blue medium plates. They also have the extra coarse and the extra fine plates.
I see now Felco do the 910plus holster which carries the sharpener which can otherwise be easily mislaid.
There are so easy to take apart that I always remove the balde and sharpen on
the vise, lot easier and safer,
Not a good idea to press the tip of the blade into your thumb when sharpening a secateurs (on video at 11 seconds to 20 seconds). Applies to any sharp tool.
Some dialogue would be good too, especial to explain why and how the 'underside' of the blade is being worked, so that people don't ruin the blade by overworking this side of the blade.
A little explanation re. using the side edge of the tool (12 - 21 secs. of video). What is this doing & is it a scraping action?
It might look dangerous but sometimes working with tools is dangerous.
warum wird denn auch die Innenseite mit 5° angeschliffen? Dadurch wird doch die Klinge beim Schnitt auseinander gedrückt!
Beim 23 Gradschliff bildet sich ein hauchdünner Metallgrat, im Sonnenlicht gut zu sehen.
Dieser Grat sollte entfernt werden damit er die Gegenklinge nicht abstumpft - auch wenn diese exzellent gehärtet ist, wird sie doch beschädigt und die Schneidleistung lässt nach.
Außerdem kippt der Metallgrat beim ersten Schnitt sowieso um, was eine sofortige Verringerung der Schärfe bei den nächsten Schnitten bewirkt.
Bei korrektem Schliff hält die Klinge bei üblichen Schneidarbeiten einen ganzen Tag durch. Zwischendurch jedoch mit Ballistol Harzlöser reinigen (Vorsicht, ist nicht gut für die Haut!) und Klingen ölen. Pflegemittel und Putzlappen sollten also immer griffbereit sein.
Ich nehme für Harzlöser und Öl getrennte Lappen, der für Harzlöser fliegt ganz schnell in den Müll, der für Öl reicht einen ganzen Sommer.
Im Umgang mit diesen Scheren gilt: "Messer, Gabel, Schere, Licht - gehören in Kinderhände nicht". Ein Finger kann mühelos abgeschnitten werden.
Und nochwas:
Eine FELCO kann immer so exakt eingestellt werden, dass die Klinge nicht auseinandergedrückt werden kann und meine FELCO 11 läuft im Freischnitt fast ohne Widerstand.
Peter, Malermeister - Hobbygärtner seit 40 Jahren, denn die Lebensfreude wächst mit
using google translate:
why is the inside (dressed) at 5°? This causes the blade to be pushed apart when cutting!
using google translate:
When grinding at 23 degrees, a wafer-thin metal ridge forms, which is easy to see in sunlight.
This burr should be removed so that it does not dull the counter blade - even if it is excellently hardened, it will still be damaged and the cutting performance will decrease.
In addition, the metal burr will tip over during the first cut anyway, causing an immediate reduction in sharpness on the next cuts.
If sharpened correctly, the blade will last a whole day for normal cutting work. In between, however, clean with Ballistol resin remover (be careful, it's not good for the skin!) and oil the blades. Care products and cleaning cloths should always be at hand.
I use separate rags for the resin remover and oil, the one for the resin remover quickly goes into the trash, the one for the oil lasts a whole summer.
When using these scissors, the following applies: "Knives, forks, scissors, lights - do not belong in children's hands". A finger can be easily cut off.
And another thing:
A FELCO can always be adjusted so precisely that the blade cannot be pushed apart and my FELCO 11 runs with almost no resistance when cutting freely.
Peter, master painter - hobby gardener for 40 years, because the joy of life grows with you
My thoughts:
sharpening at any angle generates a burr and leaving the burr to fracture by cutting (tool use) will quickly result in a very dull blade.
honing the back of the blade will facilitate the correct burr removal. this is normally done flush (parallel) to the back of the blade ((eg chisel))
so why a 5 degree relief on the rear of the blade? my gut feeling: the secateurs are shears ie metal blade rides metal anvil.
the 5 degree rear relief will reduce cutting edge contact with the anvil prolonging blade sharpness.
it will also reduce anvil wear. Smart design for quality tools that are used in arduous professional environments.
what they are up to 11 seconds in is still bit of a mystery. I have several guesses but am not prepared to stick my neck out online. Some words in many languages from the manufacturer would be well appreciated!
:-j
why go to other videos when you can watch Felco's video. i prefer no blah, blah.
Well, I got you, but I believe it is also important to see the POV of both, the designer and the product users. Most of the time we can learn from both of them. And God bless to whom ever invented the
diamond coated files. the only and best tool for sharpening pruners. Best regards From Costa Rica
What grit is the diamond sharpener?
Is it monocrystalline or polycrystalline?
Are the crystals fixed with adhesive or electricallt bonded
Frank, I find your questions hard for anyone here to give you an answer. You will have to go to the manufacturer. I have been sharpening pruners for many, many years and the diamond files are without
any doubt the best tool for this application. The one shown here is made by Felco. I do not buy it because
of the high price, it is a Felco product. I have used with excellent results the one made by DMT blue handle. DMT make coarse,medium and fine grits. blue is medium grit. Use the fine for my pocket knives.
@@horaciocastillo1435 I wrote to them, no response. I also wrote to the importer all they responded was it's diamond. well, duh.
I have one already but I'd like to know the grit so I can buy a bigger stone of the exact same grit for other use.
Grit size is numerical, not vague medium or fine.
@@FrankEdavidson Dear Frank. With this diamond stones or plates or files
there is one reason why the manufacturers do not use the grit number,
As this plates get worn down the grit changes from the original to a finer grit.
At the end of their life they end up on a finer grit that when new one,
The sharpening stones preserve the original grit til the end.
So if you buy a medium diamond plate at the end you will have a fine grade
diamond plate. Just bought the DMT 3x8 red fine and blue medium plates.
They also have the extra coarse and the extra fine plates.
@@horaciocastillo1435 😂
What about removing the burrs?
He Did It in The End When He Flipped The Shears
5 degrees, as stated.
That’s not sharpening it, that’s foreplay
I say push file toward the blade to prevent burrs.