Ignore my question mate the mechanics just said he's found someone that will do the welding mod. Suzuki should have picked up on this issue and sorted it after the first year it was manufactured as it happens to us all and there is no fix other than the welding mod. Barnett springs and new plates don't fix it it's wear of the centre components that causes the slipping. Welding the 2 centre pieces together stops the slipping.
Nice job I replaced the slipper with a welded unit, much better …no slip. Also good to show how to adjust the clutch correctly. Great vid, fully informative 👍
Just bought a project TL and it rode great for 10 mins then the clutch started slipping like a bitch!! Feeling nowhere near as down about it now I know I can sort it fairly easily. Top video!
Best easy explained clutch change I've seen for a long time changed my clutch as viewed this video all went well thanks please one thing use special oil for clutch from millers oil uk and Ireland as they are the specialist s for this bike
Dam I could of done this myself and saved myself money. Mines having this done now in the workshop. Clutch casing seal has also blown🤦🏻♂️. nice video mate👍
im replacing my clutch on my TLR soon and was wondering about those wave washers. There are 2 on the tlr. one flat and one concaved. I am assuming the concaved one goes in the same direction as this.
Hi no its the oil has to specialist oil for tl as my clutch slips when oil is hot also runs rough in traffic due to air been blocked this bike needs open road to preform well and when you get open road its a dream
Hi buddy another mod done to the TLS is to convert the cable operated clucth to the hydraulic clutch taken from the Tlr ! This totally lightens up the clutch ! Might be worth looking into or check to see if the cable operates freely and the clutch mechanism on the left hand side is set correctly according to the manual specs and is also lubricated ! Hope this helps !
Yes you can use the same oil to soak the plates ! The purpose for the soaking is to 'load up' the plates with oil prior to fitting as fitting dry plates will cause over heating and rapid wearing hence the phrase 'wet clutch ' hope this helps 👍🏻
Depending on the year of the bike will determine which clutch you use if your bike is 1999>2001 then its a 6 bolt clutch as our video clutch plate kit is ebc ck3428 and heavy duty ebc clutch springs csk 071 available on ebc website or ebay hope this helps
@@KeepItWheel Thanks for replying. Real quick though according to the Fiche there's also supposed to be a SEAT, WAVE WASHER 21471-31E00 that is behind the WASHER, CLUTCH PLATE WAVE 21472-31E01 (The springy part you pulled out.) Why did your's not have that part? You just pulled out the thin Clutch plate next. The Fiche is located here. www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d41671f8700230d8b520b3/clutch-model-v-w Am I missing something here?
Read a few things that might be the cause. Is there anything worth trying first before buying a full clutch kit? It’s slipping bad. Read that the wrong oil can cause slip but it’s really bad in this case. Struggled to get home. Thinking just do it? Which oil should I put in? She’s a 2000 model
Yeah wrong oil could cause it to slip and if its slipping as bad as you say it will need replacement clutch plates. There is quite a few vids on YT that show you how to check them👍I always used Motul 10/40 semi Synthetic and had no problems!
Hallo, ich fahre einen suzuki tl 1000 mit 1998bj und werde durch einen Kupplungssatz ersetzt, aber die Kupplung rutscht immer noch. Was könnte das sein? Danke, entschuldigung für das schlechte Schreiben von Deutsch
Hallo, wenn die Kupplung neu ist, muss sie mindestens 100 Meilen lang eingebettet sein, ohne sie zu stark zu belasten, dann sollte sie sich verbessern. Überprüfen Sie auch, ob die Einstellungen korrekt sind und ob das Kabel nicht zu fest ist. Hoffe das hilft?
Hallo, unbedingt die Kupplungsschnecke hinter der Ritzelabdeckung nach Herstellervorgaben einstellen, damit genug Abstand zum Betätigungsstift gewährleistet ist. Sonst hast du immer Druck auf der Betätigungseinheit, was ein ungewolltes Rutschen verursacht. Viele vergessen das und tauschen einfach blind die Beläge. Mineralisches Öl von BelRay ist ebenfalls ein muss.
Actually....mines a 2000 model but has the 6 bolt clutch. Would that be causing a problem? I also think the smooth edge on the silver plates is facing the wrong way on mine
yes yours should have 6 bolts the earlier models had 5 bolts. If your plates are a different way to what's shown in our video then they are wrong which would explain your problems. Good luck with it buddy and let us know how you get on!
Keep It Wheel thanks mate. When I look on wemoto for a clutch kit I get different ones appear if I search for a 2000 model or a 2001. I’m not sure which I need 😢. Should the plates be the same for 2000 and 2001? I don’t get why they aren’t on their website
@@richmcnab8925 As long as it's a 6 bolt kit for the tl you will be ok....I would contact your local Suzuki dealer and buy original if you want it the best it can be?
@@richmcnab8925 Dont read too much into it, probably just the o ring, never had any problems with mine tbh just buy a new one they are quite cheap and fit as shown in our video👍
Hey mate, I don’t know if you can give me some advice. I’ve just got the bike back from having the new clutch kit fitted by the trained mechanic and it was fine then once the engine warmed up after a mile or so the clutch started slipping again. He said it can’t be the clutch it’s a brand new kit but it is slipping bad. It’s not the rear tyre slipping I assure you I’ve ridden bikes since I was 16 I’m now 45. I stick it in 6th give it throttle and it slips like crazy. I open it up in second it slips the same. The rear wheel is not the cause it’s the clutch. It’s had a new slave cylinder and EBC clutch kit any idea why it’s still slipping? My mechanic is lost for words and I don’t know what to do.
Hi buddy with the new clutch on the TL you have to bed it in keep revs below 5000 for at least 100 miles they still defo slip when new thats normal for TL but should settle down ! Did you get the clutch mod done or just new plates?
@@KeepItWheel Hey mate, wow thanks he never even mentioned it needs bedding in and he’s had 35 years experience as a mechanic. I had a EBC Complete SRK Clutch Kit For Suzuki 1999 TL1000R X Friction & Steel Plates and Springs Included. I really hope your right and it settles down but he’s asked me this morning to bring it back and he will test ride it then take it from there. I wasn’t told to bed it in so do you think I’ve messed it up now or if I take it easy keeping the revs low it should settle down? 7 weeks I’ve been without this bike since I bought it and the bills stack up to over £1200🤢
@@KeepItWheel one other thing that’s happening with the clutch issue is I have a hard time finding neutral but I didn’t have when the engine was cold. the gears are ok it’s finding neutral and I end up giving up and turning the ignition off leaving it in gear.
Definitely sounds like a slave cylinder problem maybe needs bleeding again or the clutch may of been assemble incorrectly but you said a trained mechanic sorted it so thats probably unlikely I Definitely would not of gone done the ebc clutch plates route as I explained before the TL seems to eat them where as suzuki oem plates are by far superior either way both need to be bedded in ! I go down the slave cylinder route first to cure the neutral problem hope this helps
Hi mate, sorry to bother you. my mechanics away on holiday and I really need to get the bike running for work. My starter relay fuse blew and every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in it blows the fuse and I hear it spark with a blue flash. I'm wondering if I should order a new starter relay if that's a possible cause? I've been getting a poor connection to the starter relay for a while and then the fuse blew. Not sure why but when the fuse blew I saw what looked like smoke inside my MPH clock😬
Hi buddy sounds like a starter motor fault possibly going to ground causing the 30amp fuse to blow ! Starter moter would be my first port of call located at the front of engine
@@KeepItWheel oh god I hope not mate. I don't know how to sort one of those out and they are expensive new so I guess the bike will be out of action for a few weeks😫 I guess no point me spending money on a new starter relay then. The starter relay wires was playing up before this happened and the bike didnt want to start up unless i played with the starter relay plug so I thought maybe the celniod was the cause. I swear all this come about from hitting that bump and it causing those wires to cross and melt together.
@@KeepItWheel not saying your wrong but I've just found an artical and it says "The main reasons why your starter fuse keeps blowing are battery issues, a bad starter relay, a faulty ignition switch, a damaged starter solenoid, a faulty starter, wiring issues, and a malfunctioning fuel pump" so maybe it's possible it's the starter relay. I'll buy one as it's cheap compared to a starter motor. I'll let you know how I get on mate and thanks for your time👍
@@KeepItWheel Hi mate, the starter relay ive ordered says USA version. it will still work on a UK model right? I can't see any difference from the pic. Surely they must be exactly the same🤔
I found out the root issue with the slipping. It was the after market short lever it wasn’t allowing the clutch to fully engage so my mechanic has cut it back and also I asked him to put Barnett springs in. I just hope the 400 miles I did with it slipping hasn’t caused too much wear in the plates. I’m picking the bike up sometime this week and hopefully it’s sorted🙄 all in all it’s been over 2 months in the workshop from when I got the bike in January and over £1300 of bills😩 I think now it’s time to fully enjoy the bike without issues for the summer. I put an adjustable steering damper on there too👍
@@KeepItWheel i got the bike back after he claims to have found the issue and it’s slipping again🤢 it’s exactly like it was before and what’s worse is it’s leaking oil from the clutch casing from where he opened it to put the Barnett springs in😡I’m well gutted mate but he’s gonna do the welding mod in a few weeks time and put a new seal in. I know I know I should have got the mod done first🤦🏻♂️ he’s just fitted a new DID chain and sprockets set and estimated that bill to be £250. a DID chain n sprocket set is £129 on eBay and I assume it takes an hour max to fit them so not sure where he got £250. would you say that’s a bit much? I would like to bring it up with him but I’m worried he will say I don’t want your custom and he’s all I have in my area. I thought around £180 for a new chain n sprockets labour included.
@Keep It Wheel she’s running like a dream now mate. no joke it took over 600 miles for that clutch to fully bed in. I’m slip free👍 I’ve just got a loud knock in the engine upon cold starting from leaving the bike stationary for a few days so I’m gonna change the oil to one that clings better in the hope it will sort it. Knocks are never a good sign🤢 hope your having a blast on yours😉👍
@@KeepItWheelwow I’m glad I left the comment you’ve saved me some money lol. I’ve 2 years left to pay the bike off so was a bit concerned. Honestly though I hadn’t noticed it when I bought it only recently. Thanks buddy😉👍
made me laugh watchin this thought to me sen sound like propper notts lads. ad a look at ure other videos and seen you where keep it up las ive got a tl1000r and from notts
Keep It Wheel can always tell a notts lad lol only just got mine like a week ago first bike so goining abit steady atm tbh ill ay to come for a ride out we you lot when i get abit beta
lee brookes wow tlr for your first bike you must be crazy lol they are animals and very unforgiving, take care and get to know her well👍🏼watch this space for vids on the tlr as we now have one 😉
Haha that the problem I took it apart before I knew about the dots and the manual shows a 6 bolt pressure plate and I have a 5 bolt if I take off the shaft off the other side the plate goes on but when I bolt the clutch disengament mechinesm the shaft pushes the plate up so the last clutch plate moves out of the notch
I have a 5 pin clutch on my early TLS that doesn't have the mark also on the face plate so just assemble as normal ! Not 100% to sure of your problem having but if im reading it right it sounds like you have taken out the ramp mechanism from the centre of the clutch secured by a large nut if this doesn't locate properly it can hold the plates of causing the last plate not to locate ! Please see our other video on the hayabusa clutch mod as this explains this in more detail and is the same assembly as the Tls although its a 6 pin clutch ! Hope this helps
as I said before buddy if you follow our video this is the correct clutch arrangement and should not be done any other way so if yours is different then it is 100% wrong and explains the problems you having. Sounds like someone has played around with it and got it wrong🤔
This is the same for the tlr right🎉 quick question I have a 2003 you are the smartest guy I know is that going to have 6 bolts or 5🎉 2003 Suzuki TL1000R
Super clear thank you.. now I feel confident to do it myself. Cheers
Thanks a lot brother from Las Vegas you made a new friend God bless you😊
Ignore my question mate the mechanics just said he's found someone that will do the welding mod. Suzuki should have picked up on this issue and sorted it after the first year it was manufactured as it happens to us all and there is no fix other than the welding mod. Barnett springs and new plates don't fix it it's wear of the centre components that causes the slipping. Welding the 2 centre pieces together stops the slipping.
Nice job I replaced the slipper with a welded unit, much better …no slip. Also good to show how to adjust the clutch correctly. Great vid, fully informative 👍
Just bought a project TL and it rode great for 10 mins then the clutch started slipping like a bitch!! Feeling nowhere near as down about it now I know I can sort it fairly easily. Top video!
Nice easy job buddy👍would reccomend original Suzuki clutch! Glad the vids helped you out😉
Extremely helpful and detailed! Thanks!
Thanks mate hope it helped you 👍
Excellent video and great explanation. Thanks
THANK YOU! Awesome Video! you even put the torque specs in there.
Casey Hunsdon Your very welcome buddy 👊
Best easy explained clutch change I've seen for a long time changed my clutch as viewed this video all went well thanks please one thing use special oil for clutch from millers oil uk and Ireland as they are the specialist s for this bike
Great video. Much appreciated
Dam I could of done this myself and saved myself money. Mines having this done now in the workshop. Clutch casing seal has also blown🤦🏻♂️. nice video mate👍
Great video and info, thanks alot
Glad you found it helpful! Thank you for watching👍
Thank you..perfect
Your very welcome👌
Good video thanks
Nice explination we wont more 👍👍
Linrubspicy Linrub Thank you, much more to come! If there is anything in particular you want to see just give us a shout!
Keep It Wheel give us a go on the clutch push rod/countershaft seal. I'm replacing mine with sv stuff yearly as per the planet/zone
im replacing my clutch on my TLR soon and was wondering about those wave washers. There are 2 on the tlr. one flat and one concaved. I am assuming the concaved one goes in the same direction as this.
Haha! " Now Fuck off" hahaha!!! That guy's a piece of work.
Hello, its the same construction as Suzuki SV 1000 2005? If you hear the odd sound of clacking it is all you need to do, to replace clutch?
Thank you for explaining as you went along! Fuckin Subbed.
well done. I think I'm missing that spring washer. may explain the slip in 5/6 when it's hot
Hi no its the oil has to specialist oil for tl as my clutch slips when oil is hot also runs rough in traffic due to air been blocked this bike needs open road to preform well and when you get open road its a dream
Thank you mate. Subscribed because is well worthy. Do you mind I ask... The clutch is normally very hard. Anything to do to make it softer? Cheers
Hi buddy another mod done to the TLS is to convert the cable operated clucth to the hydraulic clutch taken from the Tlr ! This totally lightens up the clutch ! Might be worth looking into or check to see if the cable operates freely and the clutch mechanism on the left hand side is set correctly according to the manual specs and is also lubricated ! Hope this helps !
Bloody brilliant
Luke Albanese Thank you 😉
You still out there mate?
Luke Albanese yep we still here...been a few changes with keepitwheel we will back in 2018😁
thank you.
Motomatic Your very welcome👍🏼
What do you soak the clutch plates in? The oil you are going to use? Purpose of soaking? Great video by the way
Yes you can use the same oil to soak the plates ! The purpose for the soaking is to 'load up' the plates with oil prior to fitting as fitting dry plates will cause over heating and rapid wearing hence the phrase 'wet clutch ' hope this helps 👍🏻
super vidéo merci a toi il me reste a trouver un traducteur mes la vidéo est parfaite merci encore de partagé t'on savoir faire c'est cool sincèrement
Votre plus que les bienvenus, espérons que la vidéo vous a aidé. Merci d'avoir regardé😉
I've had my bike for 6 months and the clutch is hard to pull and gives me hand ache in traffic, must have had heavy springs put in.
I purchased this bike over this past fall. Do you know where I could get this upgraded clutch kit at?
Depending on the year of the bike will determine which clutch you use if your bike is 1999>2001 then its a 6 bolt clutch as our video clutch plate kit is ebc ck3428 and heavy duty ebc clutch springs csk 071 available on ebc website or ebay hope this helps
Just stripped mine and found 2 spacer rings in it??
Thanks, that's a good presentation! Can you give me some pointers to where I can get spares for my TL please?
Thanks for the comments🙂 best place to get bits for the TL is ebay or off the forums selling pages👍
@@KeepItWheel Thanks!
Spike, who did the black crackle on your frame? I really like it.
Luke Albanese it was already done when I bought the bike so not sure mate😐
Mines a 2000. Will following this video work? Plates still staggered the same? The silver plates still need the smooth edge facing the same way?
Yes mate if you have a 6 bolt clutch then its identical to the one in the video, follow it to the T and you will be very happy😉
Sveiki. Es ar mainiju sajuga diskus. Bet nevaru noregulet sajugu. Vaij viņš slid vaij vispar nav. Ka tu reguleji????
Awesome video. Is there any difference in doing this between the 5 and 6 bolt? Mine is a 97 TLS with a 5 bolt in it. Im assuming all the same parts.
Thanks mate! Yes fits the same way just follow the vid😉👍
@@KeepItWheel Thanks for replying. Real quick though according to the Fiche there's also supposed to be a SEAT, WAVE WASHER
21471-31E00 that is behind the WASHER, CLUTCH PLATE WAVE
21472-31E01 (The springy part you pulled out.) Why did your's not have that part? You just pulled out the thin Clutch plate next. The Fiche is located here. www.ronayers.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d41671f8700230d8b520b3/clutch-model-v-w Am I missing something here?
Basically I mean you did not pull out Item "12" from the clutch before the last plate.
Read a few things that might be the cause. Is there anything worth trying first before buying a full clutch kit? It’s slipping bad. Read that the wrong oil can cause slip but it’s really bad in this case. Struggled to get home. Thinking just do it? Which oil should I put in? She’s a 2000 model
Yeah wrong oil could cause it to slip and if its slipping as bad as you say it will need replacement clutch plates. There is quite a few vids on YT that show you how to check them👍I always used Motul 10/40 semi Synthetic and had no problems!
Also have you checked the cable adjustments? Seem obvious but you never know🤔
@@KeepItWheel Belray Mineral 10w40 is the best
Where do you get your parts from?
Ebay👍
Hallo, ich fahre einen suzuki tl 1000 mit 1998bj und werde durch einen Kupplungssatz ersetzt, aber die Kupplung rutscht immer noch. Was könnte das sein? Danke, entschuldigung für das schlechte Schreiben von Deutsch
Hallo, wenn die Kupplung neu ist, muss sie mindestens 100 Meilen lang eingebettet sein, ohne sie zu stark zu belasten, dann sollte sie sich verbessern. Überprüfen Sie auch, ob die Einstellungen korrekt sind und ob das Kabel nicht zu fest ist. Hoffe das hilft?
Muss man noch was einstellen nach den tausch?? Kupplungszug??
Das Kupplungskabel muss nach dem Einbau der neuen Kupplung möglicherweise leicht angepasst werden, aber das ist alles. Danke fürs zuschauen!
Hallo, unbedingt die Kupplungsschnecke hinter der Ritzelabdeckung nach Herstellervorgaben einstellen, damit genug Abstand zum Betätigungsstift gewährleistet ist. Sonst hast du immer Druck auf der Betätigungseinheit, was ein ungewolltes Rutschen verursacht. Viele vergessen das und tauschen einfach blind die Beläge. Mineralisches Öl von BelRay ist ebenfalls ein muss.
Actually....mines a 2000 model but has the 6 bolt clutch. Would that be causing a problem? I also think the smooth edge on the silver plates is facing the wrong way on mine
yes yours should have 6 bolts the earlier models had 5 bolts. If your plates are a different way to what's shown in our video then they are wrong which would explain your problems. Good luck with it buddy and let us know how you get on!
Keep It Wheel thanks mate. When I look on wemoto for a clutch kit I get different ones appear if I search for a 2000 model or a 2001. I’m not sure which I need 😢. Should the plates be the same for 2000 and 2001? I don’t get why they aren’t on their website
Got a leak from my cover too 😢read all sorts of horror stories that ill never get rid of the problem unless I buy a billet cover too.
@@richmcnab8925 As long as it's a 6 bolt kit for the tl you will be ok....I would contact your local Suzuki dealer and buy original if you want it the best it can be?
@@richmcnab8925 Dont read too much into it, probably just the o ring, never had any problems with mine tbh just buy a new one they are quite cheap and fit as shown in our video👍
Hey mate, I don’t know if you can give me some advice. I’ve just got the bike back from having the new clutch kit fitted by the trained mechanic and it was fine then once the engine warmed up after a mile or so the clutch started slipping again. He said it can’t be the clutch it’s a brand new kit but it is slipping bad. It’s not the rear tyre slipping I assure you I’ve ridden bikes since I was 16 I’m now 45. I stick it in 6th give it throttle and it slips like crazy. I open it up in second it slips the same. The rear wheel is not the cause it’s the clutch. It’s had a new slave cylinder and EBC clutch kit any idea why it’s still slipping? My mechanic is lost for words and I don’t know what to do.
Hi buddy with the new clutch on the TL you have to bed it in keep revs below 5000 for at least 100 miles they still defo slip when new thats normal for TL but should settle down ! Did you get the clutch mod done or just new plates?
@@KeepItWheel Hey mate, wow thanks he never even mentioned it needs bedding in and he’s had 35 years experience as a mechanic. I had a EBC Complete SRK Clutch Kit For Suzuki 1999 TL1000R X
Friction & Steel Plates and Springs Included. I really hope your right and it settles down but he’s asked me this morning to bring it back and he will test ride it then take it from there. I wasn’t told to bed it in so do you think I’ve messed it up now or if I take it easy keeping the revs low it should settle down? 7 weeks I’ve been without this bike since I bought it and the bills stack up to over £1200🤢
@@KeepItWheel one other thing that’s happening with the clutch issue is I have a hard time finding neutral but I didn’t have when the engine was cold. the gears are ok it’s finding neutral and I end up giving up and turning the ignition off leaving it in gear.
Definitely sounds like a slave cylinder problem maybe needs bleeding again or the clutch may of been assemble incorrectly but you said a trained mechanic sorted it so thats probably unlikely I Definitely would not of gone done the ebc clutch plates route as I explained before the TL seems to eat them where as suzuki oem plates are by far superior either way both need to be bedded in ! I go down the slave cylinder route first to cure the neutral problem hope this helps
It will definitely settle down just stick with it the bikes produce so much torque it needs to be bedded it
Hi mate, sorry to bother you. my mechanics away on holiday and I really need to get the bike running for work. My starter relay fuse blew and every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in it blows the fuse and I hear it spark with a blue flash. I'm wondering if I should order a new starter relay if that's a possible cause? I've been getting a poor connection to the starter relay for a while and then the fuse blew. Not sure why but when the fuse blew I saw what looked like smoke inside my MPH clock😬
Hi buddy sounds like a starter motor fault possibly going to ground causing the 30amp fuse to blow ! Starter moter would be my first port of call located at the front of engine
@@KeepItWheel oh god I hope not mate. I don't know how to sort one of those out and they are expensive new so I guess the bike will be out of action for a few weeks😫 I guess no point me spending money on a new starter relay then. The starter relay wires was playing up before this happened and the bike didnt want to start up unless i played with the starter relay plug so I thought maybe the celniod was the cause. I swear all this come about from hitting that bump and it causing those wires to cross and melt together.
@@KeepItWheel not saying your wrong but I've just found an artical and it says "The main reasons why your starter fuse keeps blowing are battery issues, a bad starter relay, a faulty ignition switch, a damaged starter solenoid, a faulty starter, wiring issues, and a malfunctioning fuel pump" so maybe it's possible it's the starter relay. I'll buy one as it's cheap compared to a starter motor. I'll let you know how I get on mate and thanks for your time👍
@@KeepItWheel Hi mate, the starter relay ive ordered says USA version. it will still work on a UK model right? I can't see any difference from the pic. Surely they must be exactly the same🤔
@@019208237 the same buddy
Great video, thank you lad, now f@!@ off !!! Lol
I found out the root issue with the slipping. It was the after market short lever it wasn’t allowing the clutch to fully engage so my mechanic has cut it back and also I asked him to put Barnett springs in. I just hope the 400 miles I did with it slipping hasn’t caused too much wear in the plates. I’m picking the bike up sometime this week and hopefully it’s sorted🙄 all in all it’s been over 2 months in the workshop from when I got the bike in January and over £1300 of bills😩 I think now it’s time to fully enjoy the bike without issues for the summer. I put an adjustable steering damper on there too👍
Glad to hear you finally got to the root of it buddy enjoy the summer when its comes ride the wheels of the thing !!!!
@@KeepItWheel i got the bike back after he claims to have found the issue and it’s slipping again🤢 it’s exactly like it was before and what’s worse is it’s leaking oil from the clutch casing from where he opened it to put the Barnett springs in😡I’m well gutted mate but he’s gonna do the welding mod in a few weeks time and put a new seal in. I know I know I should have got the mod done first🤦🏻♂️ he’s just fitted a new DID chain and sprockets set and estimated that bill to be £250. a DID chain n sprocket set is £129 on eBay and I assume it takes an hour max to fit them so not sure where he got £250. would you say that’s a bit much? I would like to bring it up with him but I’m worried he will say I don’t want your custom and he’s all I have in my area. I thought around £180 for a new chain n sprockets labour included.
@Keep It Wheel she’s running like a dream now mate. no joke it took over 600 miles for that clutch to fully bed in. I’m slip free👍 I’ve just got a loud knock in the engine upon cold starting from leaving the bike stationary for a few days so I’m gonna change the oil to one that clings better in the hope it will sort it. Knocks are never a good sign🤢 hope your having a blast on yours😉👍
@@019208237 mine does exactly the same buddy been like that for the time ive had it (4YEARS)most of them are the same lol so dont worry 👍🏻
@@KeepItWheelwow I’m glad I left the comment you’ve saved me some money lol. I’ve 2 years left to pay the bike off so was a bit concerned. Honestly though I hadn’t noticed it when I bought it only recently. Thanks buddy😉👍
ya some explination how to check the clearance of valve and replace and change the cam chain 😉 perhaps to much 😀
Linrubspicy Linrub Funny you should ask that! The valve clearances on my TL are due to be checked so watch this space!
10 friction plates? I think you mean 9 (8 + 1 thin one)?
made me laugh watchin this thought to me sen sound like propper notts lads. ad a look at ure other videos and seen you where keep it up las ive got a tl1000r and from notts
lee brookes Ayup me duck 😁 yes we are from notts not many tlr's around ere! Thanks for watching 👍🏼
Keep It Wheel can always tell a notts lad lol only just got mine like a week ago first bike so goining abit steady atm tbh ill ay to come for a ride out we you lot when i get abit beta
lee brookes wow tlr for your first bike you must be crazy lol they are animals and very unforgiving, take care and get to know her well👍🏼watch this space for vids on the tlr as we now have one 😉
Keep It Wheel ye it was abit scary first time but my old man bout a rsv4 so i got his tlr cheap like.
Notts TLr here dude.
My pressure plate does not have the dots
Thats not a problem buddy before you disassemble put on a mark of your own 👍🏻
Haha that the problem I took it apart before I knew about the dots and the manual shows a 6 bolt pressure plate and I have a 5 bolt if I take off the shaft off the other side the plate goes on but when I bolt the clutch disengament mechinesm the shaft pushes the plate up so the last clutch plate moves out of the notch
I have a 5 pin clutch on my early TLS that doesn't have the mark also on the face plate so just assemble as normal ! Not 100% to sure of your problem having but if im reading it right it sounds like you have taken out the ramp mechanism from the centre of the clutch secured by a large nut if this doesn't locate properly it can hold the plates of causing the last plate not to locate ! Please see our other video on the hayabusa clutch mod as this explains this in more detail and is the same assembly as the Tls although its a 6 pin clutch ! Hope this helps
Suzuki tl1000s
Welp. After watching this, you just guaranteed that I’m paying the Suzuki dealership to do this mess on my TL.
god damned i could have done this myself instead of paying the guy
Knowledge is power my friend 👍🏻
10 plates? You had 9 there.
One flat and one concave ish
as I said before buddy if you follow our video this is the correct clutch arrangement and should not be done any other way so if yours is different then it is 100% wrong and explains the problems you having. Sounds like someone has played around with it and got it wrong🤔
@@KeepItWheel ordered some parts and the drawing I found seems to have 2 rings on it? hmmm odd one
This is the same for the tlr right🎉 quick question I have a 2003 you are the smartest guy I know is that going to have 6 bolts or 5🎉 2003 Suzuki TL1000R
100% 6 bolts buddy ALL TLR'S are hope this and the video helps 👍