Best 3D Resin For Printing Unbreakable Miniatures - How To 3D Print Stronger Tabletop Miniatures
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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This video shows mix 3D printer resins to get stronger and unbreakable tabletop miniatures. Nobody likes printing and then painting a new D&D miniature on their 3D printer only to have it break the first time it's dropped on the floor.
I 3D print a lot of D&D miniatures on my Phrozen Sonic Mighty 4K printer.. I use 1kg of Siraya Tech Fast grey with 150ml of Siraya Tech Tenacious added to each bottle. It makes my prints a lot stronger and a lot less fragile. Definitely worth checking out.
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Here are links to the 3D printing items featured in this video:
Fast ABS-Like Fast Curing Non-Brittle 3D Printing Resin (Grey, 1kg): amzn.to/3pvmJEP
Tenacious (1KG) a Flexible and Highly Impact Resistant Resin: amzn.to/3puRcmq7
DEX FIT Nitrile Work Gloves FN330 (3-pack): amzn.to/3qZAGv6
ELEGOO Mars 2 Pro Mono MSLA 3D Printer UV Photocuring LCD Resin 3D Printer: amzn.to/3qQBodY
PHROZEN Sonic Mini 4K UV Photocuring LCD Resin 3D Printer: amzn.to/3cW97Pw
PHROZEN Sonic Mighty 4K UV Photocuring LCD Resin 3D Printer: phrozen3d.com/...
GoPro HERO8 Black - Waterproof Action Camera: amzn.to/3j0ne7s
Octopus Camera Tripod: amzn.to/3oAaYM8
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Best 3D Resin For Printing Unbreakable Miniatures - How To 3D Print Stronger Tabletop Miniatures
Just wanted to say big thanks. I tried this with Siraya Fast and Tenacious. It's a game changer from the Standard Polymer I was using. Dropped, manhandled, and even a light underhand toss while standing and my latest batch of minis were unfazed.
Me, too. Thanks for watching.
Love adding in tenacious, especially for the minis with swords or other thin parts. I’ve always eyeballed it, but I like your measuring cup system. Thank you for the video!
Thanks for watching. Yeah, I like using the little cup because I'm always paranoid I'm going to add to much or too little. Also, that way if my prints ever come out bad it's less variable to have to factor when figuring out what went awry. :-)
@@3DPrintingMinis I know this is 3 years old, but I though I would say using the cup is good, but since the Tenacious is kind of pricy I don't like wasting any. Fine out how much your 150ml of tenacious weighs then use a kitchen scale to put that much "weight" of tenacious straight into the bottle you will make your mix in. This will save the small amount that is always left over in your measuring cup.
If you do another video like this, can you show some test prints and do some drop tests?
Yep. I will. Thanks.
I would have loved to see minis printed with this.
I'm working on that type of video as type this. I test regular Fast Grey, Fast Grey with Tenacious added, and a third resin. Should finish shooting and editing it this weekend. Video should be up on this channel early next week. Thanks.
@@3DPrintingMinis I'm excited to watch. You put out quality content. Thank you. :)
Hey, its really nice idea, and we all r here, so much curious to see results, can u plz upload nxt prt with printed results..
What's the shelf life on it once it's mixed? I am not very regular with my printing ATM.
Pro tip: Change the label if you're changing the bottle contents ;-) Just quickly with a marker or something.
Yep, I just use a Sharpie. 👍
Good onya mate, & thanks muchly..👍
It does make strong mini's but pretty expensive. I use Sunlu ABS resin it's $25 per liter and I've dropped mini's multiple times without breaking. Spears are bendable but not crazy bendy. It's strong enough that the mini is much more likely to pop off the base where it's glue'd than break something. I generally reserve the more expensive resin's for large models with some weight that might hit with enough force to shatter if dropped on the floor.
Gotta try this! Thanks
The Tenacious adds a little bit of flex (but not too much) to swords and whatnot. Definitely keeps stuff from breaking off as much. Best of luck! :-)
Hi! I just bought a Mighty, can I make a combination of 1 Kg of Aqua 4K Ivory (Phrozen) with the 150 ml of Tenacious? Thank you :)
I’m sure you can. But you’re going to have to make do some validation card tests to get the later times zeroed in. Might want to do validation cards for just the Ivory. Once you find your numbers you can do a batch of the mixed resin and use them as a basis to test layer times above and below.
Do you sacrifice any resolution on a 4k printer adding tenacious?
I don't know why but mine part came out more brittle. The piece had great detail but when I tried bending an arm of the mini it broke almost immediately
How does this compare to sirayatech build?
Curious whether you just decided to try this or if this was something Siraya recommended?
Did you conduct any sort of tests to compare? Would you be up for making a video comparing regular vs your mix on an actual model to the point of breaking so we can see it work? thanks
It's something I read about a bunch online and decided to try for myself. I never really did a back-to-back test of plain resin vs. Tenacious boosted resin. I just know my early minis that didn't have it were much more breakable. I got a new printer this week, so I'm going to try and do a batch of plain and a batch of boosted minis and make a video showing the differences. Stay tuned! :-)
Would this work with water washable resin?
Is there a similar alternative to Tenacious? It’s so expensive!
Not really that I know of. That's why it's expensive. You get what you pay for. 🤷♂️
only more expensive ones xD
Hello, and love the detail and sophisticated video. I built the courage after watching this video to reach out and see if you'd be interested in helping me as I am building a hand-held portable fabric shaver used to remove hair/debris from clothing and upholstered items. I have been at this now for 13 months and at the point now where I am trying to build a team to slowly move through development. Currently, I need some help finding and researching what materials (metals, non-metals, plastics, etc.) work best in this application. While at the same time finding various mechanical ways to drive the best suited motor to amplify the motion of these materials that will be optimally assembled and sit on some sort of hard plastic. I would be glad to show more CAD files and videos of the printed prototypes we have thus far if willing to help. Thanks, Jon-
You need to talk to someone with an engineering or chemistry degree. I'm just a dude who 3D prints D&D figures in my garage. I wish I could be more help, but what you're doing is way beyond my skillset. Best of luck! :-)
Nice video! Have you idea with Waterwashable resin what mix work? I use it and i want make stronger my miniatures for tabletop games like D&D and Pathfinder. Now i use Eleggo waterwashable resin but i want try other waterwashable resins.
I don’t use water washable. I tried it when I first got my first printer and I didn’t like it. I know use Siraya Tech fast and Epax hard grey.
I know this is and old comment (sorry I'm new to the 3d printing world and just trying to catch up) but I'd also add that if you add tenacious to water washable it now defeats the entire purpose of water washable at that point and you might as well just get a normal resin at that point.
Excellent video, I’m going from Ender3’s to my pre-order Elegoo Mars 3, so I’m trying to identify the best Resin. I enjoyed your video and most of all learned from it.
I’d say Siraya Tech Fast Grey is the easiet, most consistent resin for people new to resin printing. Epax Hard Grey is good but it’s a little tricker to use with supports. Fast Grey is sturdy and pretty forgiving when you’re new.
thanks for sharing! i just bought some tenacious and fast smokey black, gonna test this. Do you have your settings for the mars 2 pro? :)
My old settings for the Mars Pro 2 won't work because it's different resin that you're using. From what I've read black resin cures at a slightly different rate than grey or other colors.
Your slicer program (e.g. Lychee, Chitubox, etc.) should already have a recommended setting for your specific printer and resin. If not you'll have to download it from your printer or resin's website. I'd use the settings for whichever resin is the highest percentage in your mix. I'm guess it'll be the fast smokey black. Run a test print of a validation card at those settings. If it comes out (i.e. doesn't fail) make validation cards in .1 second increments 2 to 3 steps above and below the default layer cure time and see which one turns out the best. Then use that time as your cure and print a test print of a small figure or something to make sure it really works.
@@3DPrintingMinis thanks, sorry im a noob but what is the validation card?
@@emmawilliamson711 www.thingiverse.com/thing:4707289
Thanks for this video. What would you suggest as a burn in time for this resin on a mono 4K printer? I just got an Epax E10 and plan on doing some calibration tests, but cannot find any data from Siraya Tech or Epax for this resin.
You'll have to get the recommended burn times from your printer and/or resin manufacturer's website and print out validation cards. Every printer and resin is different and it also matters how thick of layers you plan to printer. If Siraya Tech doesn't have recommendations for your exact printer you might have to use specs from a similar printer made by a different company. And you can also check in the Chitubox and Lychee to see if they have any resins pre-loaded for your printer as well.
@@3DPrintingMinis Thanks, I've printed out some validation matrix test prints and now working on a model using 15 seconds as burn in and 2.8 seconds in normal. Thanks again.
@@3DPrintingMinis Hi, what do you add to the timings when you at 20% of Tenacious? Siraya have data for my Elegoo Saturn but I was wondering how that added tenacious would affect, I'm guessing longer times.
Any idea if I can add the tenacious to water washable resin?
No, you cannot.
Im buying my 1st 3d printer and I'm looking to make chess pieces but need help decided the best resin to use, my 1st set I want it to be Black N white with gold paint. I want something that will last a long time if I decide to sell it, any tips?
I'd say maybe Epax Hard Grey resin might work well. It's slightly more expensive than Siraya Tech Fast Grey but stronger as well. And it's cheaper and easier to use than the fancy Phrozen Loctite resin. You'll want to prime, paint and seal the pieces with clear varnish whatever resin you end up using. One to protect the pieces but also protect your players from prolonged handling of resin-printed pieces. Here's a link the Epax hard resin on Amazon: amzn.to/3yfoqcV
@@3DPrintingMinis thanks, ill check it out, whats a good prime n varnish...im sorry im new to this i been making 3d for years n now i want to get into prints
I have the elegoo Abs like resin and the eSun flexible resin. Do you think I can mix them? Are there some resin that we never have to mix because of the componants?
I did it mad times. Never failed me. I even ran out of Esun abs white and just poured in the vat abs grey and it worked great. A few times with diff resins too. Settings can’t be too far off though when doing diff colors though it it can affect the print. Think I found a sweet spot for diff colors. I never change my settings and my elegoo Mars 2 pro prints any color clear or white to black on the same settings
@@jeremyfeliciano7595 great... Thanks!!!
I would say email those manufacturers and see what they say about doing this. However, Jeremy below says he's done it a bunch of times and never had a problem, just need some tweaking. So, I don't. know. Try it or email the companies or both. :-)
How long do you put this in a curing machine?
It depends on the machine and resin.
With the resins I use and my curing station I usually do 90 to 120 seconds. I could probably do less but I'm not overly concerned about brittle prints as I am uncured ones.
What are your settings. I used this mixture and I can’t even print an exposure test for nearly a week
You're going to have to make validation cards for you printer and find the best setting for your specific resin and printed that you're using. The setting aren't universal (sadly).
@@3DPrintingMinis sad I ruined my resin (3 big ass bottles that I pre mixed) by doing this shit it’s ruined and that was months ago. You just replying now?? 😂😂😂😂
excuse me, is there anyway to find good exposure time for durable/ abs like resin ?
The test I found only work with standard (britle) resin
Check your resin manufacturer's website. From there you'll have to enter those base settings and do validation cards in .5 second (up and down) increment to see which layer time is best for your printer and that resin.
I find with ABS like resin just a 0.1 difference in exposure time can be drastic, and exposure tests tend to look under AND over exposed when the exposure isn't correct. Example Sunlu ABS like grey for my Flashforge 9.25 6k printer is 2.9 seconds. However at 2.8 seconds and at 3.0 seconds I couldn't tell any difference. So my advice for ABS like resin is start at the top recommended. For example 3.0 seconds and work down in 0.1 second intervals until you find the correct exposure.
This mixture vs 3DRS Fast+ please
Send me a bottle and I'll be glad to do it. Thanks.
What's your exposure settings
Depends on the printer you’re using.
@@3DPrintingMinis mighty 4k
Someone knowns if tenacious resin works with sculp resin?
I have never tried it. Sorry. Maybe check in the Siraya Tech Facebook groups.
@@3DPrintingMinis Anyway, thanks :)
This is far from unbreakable. Mine break from a slight snag on a thin part.
Maybe you’re over-curing them.
@@3DPrintingMinis That is complete nonsense and dangeroua too. If you aren't curing them all the way, theyre not fully cured, and aren't safe to handle.
Would you send me some?
Haha, sadly I can't.
@@3DPrintingMinis sending u an .stl file would be better lol. I ordered the Anycubic Tough Resin
Super disappointed I watched 5 minutes of this and didn't even get to see an example print.
More people seem interested in how to actually mix the resins together. An example print looks just like a regular print. There's not really much to show. 🤷♂️
@@3DPrintingMinis Or... print thin pieces to display the flexibility / rigidity, as other videos have done. There is plenty to show. Not trying to be a dick, but your whole 🤷♂️ attitude is a lil unreasonable.
Yeah I was here because he said durable… kinda thought he’d prove it