HOW TO FIX INTO THE DARK TERRAIN - Make Sure YOUR Kill Team Set Fits Perfectly - Warhammer Spacehulk
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How To Fix Into The Dark Terrain - Make Sure YOUR Kill Team Set Fits Perfectly - Warhammer Spacehulk - Hry
I really appreciate the structure of your video. Not to slow or fast, and clearly showed everything you're talking about. Some hobby channels really screw this up
Awesome to hear, thank you for watching!
Thanks for pointing out the exact peices you need to file, it's hardly anything I thought it would be every bit! Great video sub'd!
Glad it was helpful, definitely not too much to work on. I popped on a podcast and got to work and it was soon done. Thanks for subbing, that's awesome!
I don't see the tight fit being an issue. This video perfectly address the solutions to fitting. Modeling is part of this hobby, so build your models. Find solutions to your problems. Build them. No complaining. Building is fun. 👍
Thanks for taking the time to share these tips. Will definitely save me a lot of stress and heartache by doing this initial prep.
Nice one, glad they are helpful. I got lucky with that tape size, and it makes a huge difference to the fit.
I guess it’s time to pop in a movie, or an Audiobook and start filing. Quite annoyed GW makes one of their best terrain sets yet (and I love the non-dirt board too) but at a very premium price, making us sand it, too. Well, gives me an excuse to start listening to the Black Library audiobooks I have had for a while 😂
Thank you for the video, Lee! This was super useful and detailed!
That's what I did. Podcast and get filing! 🤣 Oh yeah there's the beige brown board? lol There had to be a negative with the set otherwise it would have been too good to be true. Letting GW off this time as I love the set so much 🤪
Pull up a couple of 1h Into the Dark Analysis video and you should be good to go!
For the holes, I plan on filling them with blu tac (poster tack I think it's called in other places) while I'm painting and pull it out afterwards. That should keep it paint free.
Agreed! [I posted before reading the Comments! 👍😇🙂]
Bluetac ~ Teachers gum
To be fair, I’d rather sand it down, rather than having it too loose to begin with. Great pointers
That's a good point, if it was wobbly we would be stuck with it. Thanks for watching!
I second this entirely, it’s the idea of measure twice cut once, I’d rather this than have to try and increase the size of it to make it fit securely
I think if you wound up going too far, then not masking the connectors might be just the few extra %'s of a millimeter to bring it back. Tho yes, best to err on abit less trimming/filing than to much.
*Test Fit Often!*. 'Specially since I'm sure the tolerances are a bit fiddly from one pieces-parts to another.
Based Lark's Tounge in Aspic pfp, my favorite album ever
@@kaden9229 I have to agree
I found out recently that blue tack poster putty works great for masking the slots in the pillars.
Good tip!
So useful - I have shared this a number of times to help others on various Facebook sites. Credited of course awesome content. Happy New year
Thanks for sharing, really appreciate that! Glad it was helpful and Happy New Year to you too
Bluetack for the hollow slots. Really cheap and no faff. Poke a blob in, spray then pull it out. Can reuse it across the whole set
Perfect!
Great and helpful video. I will definitely remember this if I decide to pick this set up. Have been looking for a good set to get into Killteam and this new labyrinth style terrain feels quite a little different to other futuristic skirmish games.
Thanks, glad it was helpful. This would be a great set to get into Kill Team with I think, the terrain is awesome and the two kill teams have loads of character. I'm playing an intercessor Kill Team for now to really get to grips with all the new rules (and old ones 🤣) then I'll move up to the Breachers in the new setting.
I appreciate that you showed a few different ways to solve each issue. I don't have an airbrush so the rattlecan tips are going to help me.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Great video! I think that I’m going to plug those corner post holes with some blu-tack or cheap playdoh before spraying.
Thanks! That's a great idea, blu-tack will be perfect I think.
This is what I figured that you would do when I saw the video thumbnail. I would suggest using a filtered mask (such as those used in woodworking) when sanding, because it's probably a bad idea to breathe in small particles like that. Still, a good and informative video.
Good idea, thanks for watching!
Great vid, much appreciated! It occurred to me from the start of all the reports on the tight+fiddly tolerances of this Terrain is that Blu-Tac isn't just for sticking minis & piefes-parts down is that it'd be a far less intensive process to fill the receiving gaps with it.
Less work than sprues & stirrers. Re-use it for other gaps, say 4x column parts at a time, if you don't want a sizeable amount of Blu-Tac being destroyed. It's pretty cheap tho if you don't wanna go 4x primings at a time.
Blaster was here... & that my plan, at least!
Hey, Blaster, thanks! Blue tax sounds like a great plan!
Rather then masking the slots and holes, I suggest BUILDING as much as possible, and priming the walls while built, they are then already protected naturally while slotted together
That's a great idea. I found it handy to have the flat panels in the spray booth, and the masking tape sections were good to hold.
I will DEFINITELY do it that way next time. I made the beginner's mistake of priming on sprue with a couple of nice layers.... I'll file them down; it's just more of a time waste
I'm bald, so very used to having to shave and smooth-off large surfaces!
🤣
Immensely useful and detailed content rigth there. You are a hero.
Awesome to hear!
Superb , If you hold it down on the table as you file it will make you filing faster and more effective.
Thanks Simon, I did that out of camera, you're right much easier.
Thanks for the video, these are very useful tips! I guess you could use something like a guitar pick or the a push-fit model disassemble tool to pry those caps.
Thanks for watching, great idea!
I used bluetac for my corner bits when I used the rattle can to prime. Worked a treat 😊
Great idea!
Awesome work!!!can't wait to see it painted
Thank you!
Dremel was a good shout, that took me under 30 mins. Be careful with it and finish off with a scraper. Perfect
Nice one that’s great to hear. It’s such a good set once it’s built.
Excellent advice! Thanks very much.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Original Space Hulk Terrain - still the best - and no fitting problems!!! - keep the videos coming!
I'd love to get hold of that. I wonder if they'll re-release the set next year?
Thanks for the tips mate!!
Glad they helped, thanks for watching too!
Very helpful, thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the guide, Lee. Time to crack out my 2nd cut file.
Glad it helped, thanks for watching!
Excellent video!
Thank you!
Masking fluid might also do the trick, be a bit more easy to use in the fiddly bits like where the caps go and the open slots. Tape up the side bits which are really straight forward.
Good idea!
Thank you so much for this!
You're so welcome, hope it helped, and thanks for watching!
Thanks for the info. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Just a thought. Any reason not to attach the pillar parts to the ends of the walls, put the caps on and then prime? Would save a bit of time masking.
I was going to mask it, but this sounds like it might be a WAY better idea, then everything that is showing is primed and it's allgood
@@zach1972 Only thing to watch out for is that you wind up with unprimed little bits on the caps where the walls are. But that's a 2 minute job to fix afterwards.
That would work
@@Flying.Muttley Or gumming up the connections to much. Probably a case of 'Six of one, half dozen of the other' tho. When you hafta start trimming &/or masking versus fitting+priming, there's often no perfect way to do it.
THIS is the video I needed… thank you so much
Glad it was helpful, it does make a huge difference and well worth a couple of hours.
@@tabletopskirmishgames So, oddly enough, another channel's kit was fitting quite smoothly. It is possible that this was an initial production issue maybe...? Gonna see when mine arrives next week.
thanks for the tips 👍, also, If you are using a rattlecan maybe a bit of blutack on those holes wouldnt be a bad idea either
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching 👊
Thanks Lee, super useful. A bit annoyed with GW that we have to go through all this.
Thanks for watching, really pleased it's helpful. I'm letting GW slide on this one, the box is so good ... only just though! 🤣
I agree, especially after shelling out so much.
Getting perfect fit in plastic models is really hard, even for expensive models. To my knowledge only bandai with gunpla can do it reliably
That sprue tip is BRILLIANT
Thanks BB!
Life saving video right here
Awesome, glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching!
Great guide! Looks like I got a bit of work ahead of me 😅
Thanks, it's not as and as it might look. Couple of hours and you'll be good to go. 👊 (Unless you bought lots of sets!)
Silly putty is your friend; instead of coffee stirrers, fill the gaps with silly putty.
Thanks so much for this video. I have 4 sets of terrain to do when it all arrives. I bought one full box of into the dark and 3 more sets of terrain off ebay.i have alot of work ahead of me. Lol
Thanks for watching! Wooah that is going to look so good on the tabletop! Are you going to play Horus Heresy/40k with it?
@@tabletopskirmishgames ill be playing both kill team and Horus heresy .
@@sylntghost007 nice!
Theres no one who says there own way with more joy. its so wholesome. (im lee :))
Haha I like to start off cheerful 🤪
So newbie question, and I am assuming that doing some more filing down might help this problem, but me and my friend wanted a quick game of this and when we put the terrain together, we noticed to sections would slant upwards on the air, everything was the correct way around but yeah really bugging me, my guess is that this is normal from the manufacturing side and we just need to file down the edges to improve the fit and hopefully they will sit on the ground like normal
Yeah when the fittings are too tight, it causes the whole lot to warp on the table. File or sand them down and you will get rid of that problem 👊
I'm having to do this now for two sets. I loosely primed each frame, then assembled as much as I could. I will file down the connectors and take the paint off after the next few coats. I really should have masked each tab, but theres no preventing paint getting into the female connections.
Yeah some paint will go in there even if you airbrush and are careful. Some good suggestions from the community included filling with blue tac
For the column gaps my plan is to use non hardening putty to fill the gaps and then pull off once primed.
Nice one
Better too tight than too loose, is what my father always told me.
USA Libertarian...I think father dear was referring to the elasticity of a woman's fun parts...1 in particular...lol
Lee...how you doing buddy...good to see that the passing of your Monarch hasn't effected your content...Long Live the Emperor...😆😆😆
Lee, I see you've been busy...have you decided what models you're gonna get rid of yet..?
Sound advice indeed 🤣
Hey John, not yet, probably keep it all haha
@@johnroy2567 My father meant what?!?!
Well, he also told me to get a lot while I'm young and I assumed he meant real estate.
Thanks. I saw a video where the fellow did three different spray can colors and wondered if just one layer of primer would have worked. Apparently NO! Also, would a little break-free lube have helped? What about priming with the pieces put together rather than masking?
I would have primed with a dark brown if I had it. I used black primer, then I'll overbrush dark brown, then dry brush metallic, and finally contrasts in places to break up the colour. Break-free lube could work, worth a try. Priming with the pieces together is a great idea!
Silly putty in the pillar slots is easy, flush and reusable.
Perfect!
I hope my Dremel will do this in 5min! But thank you for the heads up!
That'll be perfect, super fast. Glad it was helpful, thanks for watching!
Thanks Lee. Shame we need to do this. I don't know that I want to reward GW on this one.
Thanks for watching! Yeah it is a shame but I'm letting GW slide this time; I like the set too much 🤣
Hello, did you think putting some silicon on the inserted pieces or in the holes ?
No but good idea
I wonder if another approach could be to sand the joins and then fully assemble before spraying rather than using masking tape.
That would work I think, great idea!
Silly question, how do you clean off the bits and dust off the file after you have sanded a bit?
I tap it onto a cloth or my trousers if I'm wearing scruffy clothes lol
Bang on video
Thank you!
Glad I have all that Battle Systems terrain! ;)
Yes, that's a lot easier to get started with! 🤣
@@tabletopskirmishgames Another great tutorial tho! I've noticed the fitment on some of the AOS terrain that I have, that worked better with a little extra prep. As always, you do great work!
Thanks, Bjorn! Definitely worth a bit of time at the beginning to make it more enjoyable later on.
This is extremely disappointing that they screwed up the tolerances of all those fits.
It is a shame but there had to be a negative about the box, and at least we can fix it.
Better too tight, than too loose, though it would have been nice if they had figured the priming layer so we could have just primed them and then they would fit nicely.
@@tabletopskirmishgames After the Heart of Ghur Terrain I was looking forward to something that wouldn't require so much modelling cleaning work. This kit was engineered in the same way GW engineers all their "modular" kits. They really just want you to glue it together then buy more. That might be fine if it didn't cost a fortune and have such limited print run. Its mental.
@@blkjet117 Yes. That's what I mean by tolerances. The way things fit in an engineering POV. Except tolerances in this sense means the variance in the end result. That includes everything in the pipeline from mold/tool design down to the formula of plastic they use can effect the fit of all the parts at the end. Its definitely a line item they can cheap out on thus meaning we have to go to greater modeling lengths to make it work the way we want.
What you mentioned about allowing for it to be primed and still fit is a perfect example of tolerance. They did not plan ahead for it, they just used a single click in a CAD program to make a matching part then moved on to the details.
I Imagine the tightness is intentional getting a flush fit is much easier done by hand and tbh I don't expect a perfect fit from anything, we have to sand and scrape to fit each joint in 90% of GW models its just part of the hobby at this point and ultimately the results of that effort are satisfying.
would it be more time efficient to sand down the connecting pieces, Ie. the female piece and then sand the top piece a bit
What I don't understand is why gw didn't go with a slide slot instead of tab and port. The slide slot with be just as effective and you still get to keep the cap to cover the joints.
Maybe so you can’t combo with zone mortalis terrain?
I also don't mind the fit being tight to begin with, noone does terrain that fits to perfection at the scale gw does, if they did just right some of them will be loose instead like that you can trim them exactly where you want them.
Well, the point of the terrain is to be modular, being as tight as it is makes it prone to breaking after just 2 or 3 matches, so it definitely should not be this tight.
Yeah the modular aspect of it makes it risky to be so tight.
@@JohnnyLeyenda I disagree it is meant to be trimmed in the same way you are supposed to clean a model, the hobby aspect shouldn't be ignored, this ain't legos.
I mean, thanks a bunch for doing this video, but maaaaan this is not a video I want to see in my title when my Into the Dark box is on the way.
Thanks for watching, it's a couple of hours to get it perfect so not too bad. Well worth it for the quality of the set as a whole.
Tac-life mini Dremel super cheap and rechargeable.
Perfect!
Ok, in defence of GW here, if this terrain was out of the box loose fit and fell to pieces at the drop of a hat people would be making videos on how bad the terrain is. So the all the pieces fit well out of the box and actually stay together as intended. Overall GW have made a good kit here, I think maybe they should have made adjustments for magnetisation by maybe keeping the "fins" as removeable and holes pre-moulded for magnets, but that is for the future.
That’s a great point
My experience with Dremel vs plastic have not given the best results. I recommend keeping the RPMs low and contact time short to avoid heat build up.
Good advice, thanks. Definitely a case of small increments and lots of test fitting.
So I ordered the terrain, mat, and gauges from a bits trader from Ebay. This will not include the instructions so how hard is it to figure out which pieces go with which.
Here is a link to the instructions ... imgur.com/a/kMrVUe5#VguG0jR ... hope it helps 👊
@@tabletopskirmishgames Very helpful. Finished building the stuff this week. Did not do any of the fixing though yet.
Yes
🥳
Arghraghahrg, help! I’m trying with a metal file but it just isn’t work. Seems like a decent file, but maybe the little bits are getting in the cracks of the file? Lee, how did you manage using the metal file to do this all?
If you tap the file on a cloth on the table then the bits should come out. It is a lot of filing and I was pretty aggressive with it 😂 You’ve got this! 👊
@@tabletopskirmishgames will give that approach a shot! Ty!
Daunting 😱
It looks a bit much, but there isn't that many pieces that you need to file down. Overall it's a couple of hours to get it perfect so not too bad. Well worth it for the quality of the set as a whole.
GW needs to learn to use magnets.
That would be a great way to do this
So no fear clipping all the pieces off to work on? Someone said that you needed to write numbers on the bottom of some of the pieces because the scenarios called for specific wall sections.
As far as I've seen, everything is well illustrated, so it shouldn't be a problem to number it at the end
The images in the back of the book make it clear so it’ll be easy to do
Are the walls stackable ??
No they aren't. When assembled, they are solid, so you could put platforms on top of them, though. Might be fun to have different levels, and when you complete a certain task or reach a point on the board, you remove it and go down a level?
I’d rather they be super tight like this and do some work to make it the right fit that you may personally prefer than it be too loose. This in my opinion is far better than it could have been.
That's a good point, the other way around would have been awful.
Looks over at 3018 cnc sitting idle...............
Had to look up what that is, and yes that looks like it'll certainly do the job!
I’ve ordered two boxes 😭
Nice!
@@tabletopskirmishgames Finished putting it together now to do all the filing and undercoating. Its a really nice kit, but I see what you mean about them not fitting together very well. Bad really.
Why do we have to fix GW's mold tolerance issues though? I bet a lot of people would have appreciated it to be looser fit, or similar to the mortalis walls at least vs something that could be used as a weapon because of how sturdy it is. Feels rushed... or untested... or they just don't care.
Wow that looks crazy tedious and a huge pain in the ass. I'm sure people will mention how badly those walls sucked after the new kill team is release 😆 I do appreciate the tips, but in 2022 this is an unnecessary fix, and should not be tolerated.
It's not what you'd expect for the price point for sure.