Here's How To KEEP YOUR CAR OR TRUCK FROM OVERHEATING!!
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- čas přidán 7. 09. 2024
- Here's How To KEEP YOUR CAR OR TRUCK FROM OVERHEATING!!
If Your Car Or Truck Overheats, Do This!
In this video I tackle something that's been on my mind for a while now. Reliability. With most newer vehicles you don't necessarily have to worry about this so much but when you drive a vehicle as old as mine (1995 GMC Suburban) you always think about the potential for a breakdown.
So far I've loved having my dual electric fan setup. It's worked pretty dang good and has been plain fun to run. Not to mention the fact that I was able to free up some horses by removing that heavy clutch fan. But, when I think simply about reliability on a 25 year old truck I can't help but feel like I should swap that clutch fan back in place. Even though there are plenty of benefits to running the dual electric fans, and I may even reinstall at some point in the future, if I am to take this truck on an overloading trip somewhere remote, I want the very least possibility of break down. In that line of reason, clutch fan it is (for now). Besides, who doesn't love finding reasons to tinker with their vehicles? I do.
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Next 1Road takes the seats out of his 95 and installs wood soda cases to save weight, then re-installs to notice a difference in comfort, then takes out again to notice speed increase, then returns seats once again after noticing difference in stereo. All in fun. .Jim. . .it's your truck, I'm just here for the ride and to poke fun. :-) ;-) :-D
And your still watching his videos lol
@@gregorydavid7755 Because, I like him so much. Just playing.
Get a dual row radiator Jimmy. I got mine at Napa for my 96 GMC and it made a huge difference on cooling and the A/C still blows cold. No e-fans needed!
Yes! Dual core is the old term.
Agree dual core will be way better. I also added pusher 12 inch spal fan in front turned on with A/C . This makes it durable
From what year jimmy .. just the radiator o I need something else??
Engine radiator or ac radiator?
Wow seriously, going back to stock!?
Although I have no GM vehicles your videos are very entertaining.
Keep up the good work, love the content!
Here's to everyone who screeched every time I suggested that the factory fans would work better over the years 🍻
Don’t get too excited, he’s ocd more than I am. He’ll be changing it back next year or doing something else for it.
@@KendrasEdge757 oh yeah, I'm sure!
I'd agree. The factory has a thing called engineers... They engineered that clutch fan to properly cool the engine under every condition when it's working properly. When it's not working properly, simply replace it instead of re-engineering it with a different set up. I always have to laugh when these yahoos think they're a better engineer than the factory and go ahead and install something that doesn't have the same amount of airflow or doesn't kick on at the right temperature. Lol. I'm a trained professional. It's the simple when a part breaks or doesn't work right replace it with the same.
@@roberts5118 ya me to I find amusing as well and if you saw worried about overheating all he has to do is put a cooler temastact
@@roberts5118 engineers.. Ha!
Glad you went back. Now you won't have to worry about your fan. You will soon forget you even have one, trust me. If you want an aux fan for the AC put a pusher on the front, that's what I did and it works well.
I have read that the uneven spacing of the OE fan blades is to reduce noise. Something to do with a resonance frequency of sound. I have noticed uneven spacing and size on tire treads for the same reason, for a quieter ride.
Uneven spacing of fan blades is done to reduce fan noise.
Now, that makes sense. Interesting.
Thank you, I wondered about that.
Yup they got that from ww2 submarines propellers
On my 1996 diesel suburban, I put an early duramax plastic 9 blade fan and Hayden fan clutch with the same 4 bolt mount. Pulls lots more air and much lighter fan.
Jimmy, I have a small block ford 302 in my 85 grand marquis with AOD auto trans and a big block 460 in my 85 F250 4x4 with BW T-19B Manual trans both use the same fan clutch with different blade counts on the fan. My small block came with a single row radiator with a standard duty clutch and 5 blade fan, my big block came with a 2 row radiator with a heavy duty clutch and 5 blade fan. I upgraded my truck radiator to a 3 row with a severe duty clutch with same fan and added and engine old cooler the truck runs so cool it’s a dramatic difference. My car I upgraded my radiator to similar 3 row also changed the fan to a stock 351W 7 blade fan slotted the mounting holes to accept the same severe duty clutch as the truck and added a trans oil cooler which now the car runs dramatically cooler as well. Both fans and fan clutches are stock Ford parts and easy to find if something fails, the engine oil cooler and trans oil cooler are off the shelf (Hayden coolers) from O’ Reilly’s Auto Parts.
Fan clutches on older vehicles are designed usually with a thermatic spring that actuated a viscous clutch to engage the clutch. The duty rating is the slip/off or on cycle, example: the engine is idling at 800 rpm then say a light duty clutch slips at 250 rpm then when engaged runs at engine speed, same goes for a standard clutch that slips at 375 rpm and a heavy duty clutch slips at 500 rpm. The severe clutch doesn’t slip it’s on or off and all of the clutches engage at a set temp similarly. The lower clutches slip to still allow some cooling even then engage to provide highest cooling. The severe clutch stays off until designed temp is reached, after cooling the engine & radiator it then goes off spinning slow enough to stop it by hand causing no drag on the engine with no cooling other than air forced through the radiator by driving.
The severe clutch actually saves gas, runs only to cool the radiator & engine then goes off causing no drag on your engine. If your cruising on the highway the fan will not often come on or cycle on/off unless climbing a hill or hauling/pulling a load. The air forced through your grille and radiator should most often be enough to cool your radiator due to standard air to water cooling by force but, when in traffic or hauling/pulling a load the air forced through your radiator isn’t enough so a engine driven fan is needed to pull air through the radiator to cool it then with a thermostat that cycles the engine coolant through the system cools the engine. The fan is a parasitic draw and can be used in a slip config that still cools even when disengaged or on/off config that only cools when engaged.
I work on heavy duty trucks (mostly big rigs and similar equipment) which don’t use a slip fan clutch, they all use either a fixed fan or severe duty on/off fan clutch for fuel savings, engine efficiency and emissions reduction. They all run great so I applied that to my 2 old vehicles and I save gas now with better mpg’s, they both run cooler with better thermocycling and the only drawback is when the fan does come on you surely hear it and feel slight power loss only if put putting around town. Otherwise, at any rpm above 1,800 I don’t notice any power loss and the fan isn’t that loud at speeds above 20-30 mph.
Agree with you on the factory look and parts. On a different note let look at GM and the notorious 8 speed issues by many. I'm a GM man through and through but there reliably has gone down the dumper. Great video, hope clutch fan works out. Cheers from Sydney, Nova Scotia
If you want a better "stock" fan, look into the 9-blade fans found on the 99 and later gas GMT800 trucks with the mechanical fan There's also 2 different 11-blade fan options which will run very quiet compared to that 5-blade fan you have. One of them is the black 11-blade fans found on the 98 and later GMT400 trucks, or the white/tan 11-blade found on the newer S10, Blazer, and Astro vans (with the 4.3 V6) Each of these different options should bolt right up to your existing clutch since GM kept the same bolt measurements on many of their mechanical fans.
Keep an eye (ear) on the clutch for a bit. They don't always take kindly to being inoperative for a while, especially If stored improperly. Should make a dull roar at cold for just a couple of blocks, then basically go silent until it gets hot (stop n go with AC on a sunny SoCal day). That you're hearing it on these colder days right now doesn't seem right, unless you were really beating on that thing. Could be a sign that the clutch is getting 'lazy' if you're hearing it all the time. The clutch in my 01 Yukon XL 2500 did the same thing, and when I replaced it it went back to only engaging like I described.
Definitely agreed on the other comments re: bigger radiator and/or fan with more blades if you can find something drop-in, especially factory. Check the later years of the GMT400 to see if GM made some upgrades you can bolt in. On my 93 Suburban 2500 (454), I was able to bolt in a fan from a 98-99 , which added a few blades and did make a good difference.
Also, there was a small pusher on the 454 trucks that mounts in front of the radiator. It's meant for the oil cooler, but if you're trying to just move a bit more air, might be worth looking into.
Got it thanks!
There's a spacer oldie cars use to butt up the fan as close to the radiator as possible.Purple ice by Royal Purple works & take out the thermostat bigger hole for better cooling & a better be cool radiator don't worry your truck will get warm either way.
Thanks for the tips on alternators and fuse sizes wow melt downs would have never thought that would happen maybe a straight dedicated wire without the fuse.
the clutch fan only works when it gets hot. so use a viscous fluid and some use a bi metallic spring. when the clutch is cold it is not fully engaged. if you need more cooling you can get a seven blade fan. it bolts onto the clutch and get a thicker radiator.
Order a dual core brass soldered custom rad. You'll pay triple of the plastic aluminum but does that even belong on a car?
Then you can repair & then re-core if you plan on keeping your V8 post apocalyptic mobile.
Plastic just don't belong on a cooling device.
Well there goes you MPG im a try
I wanna do the 7 blade fan. What fan fits these obs chevys?
Pleased as punch to know my new fan is in the mail. My new clutch was purchased with my new water pump and serp belt. Can't wait to work on this truck some more!
I'll take reliability over performance in a vehicle I want to go long distances in all honesty. I'll go OEM for as much as possible. If it's coming for a race engine or a engine for performance I'll go with the best name brands that builders use. As for rims though... I would replace though ugly stock ones for some nice bead locker look with a 2" offset! It will totally transform the look and make it more stable when off roading.
Agree
My 95 Silverado does the same fan roar when cold , but once it’s disengaged it’s all good, engine driven fans are much better I feel, it’s good to always have air circulating around your engine
There's a reason for the large gap between the fan and radiator. It allows the fan to pull air through a larger amount of condenser and radiator surface area with the shroud in place. The clutch fan will also eat less engine power once it starts to disengage. And remember pulling air through a radiator and condenser at a too high of rate doesn't always mean a cooler running engine especially in summer heat. It has to be at just the right speed for optimal heat exchange efficiency. This can be observed easily with your air conditioning. Get a digital thermometer and put it in the center dash vent and turn the ac on full blast and record the temp once it settles. Then turn the fan speed down one notch and you'll see the air temp start to drop. The slower moving air is able to exchange heat better. The same thing goes for your radiator.
I read that you must run the fan on a low speed when measuring ac temps
Mechanical fans have worked reliably since the Model T. If you have an inline drivetrain, they’re the simplest and most reliable system.
From the factory, the truck is engineered to achieve the optimum compromise between a range of concerns - sales price being an important one. By replacing OEM parts with carefully selected aftermarket ones you are able to reach a different point of compromise, which may more suited to your specific requirements. This of course requires considerable understanding of the systems involved and of the characteristics of the components exchanged.
Hey, Mr, 1ROAD I fix my 95 GMC Suburban ABS by cleaning the sensor on the wheel hub. You should make a video of it.
'99 Tahoe 291,000 miles....Just had to replace the radiator in it and also put in a new t-stat. Mine runs at about 160/170 even on a hot day with the ac on...you were definitely running warm on some of those trail ride vids. I watched....you are making the right decision imo.
The spaces in your fan blades help with noise. Fans without spacing can make a humming noise at higher rpm.
TIGHTEN YOUR SURPENTINE BELT TENSIONER PULLY! Notice the bolt coming out and your pulley moving at the 8:25 mark.
WE all ready told you get get the Heavy duty electric fans (Oem ones) from a PPV/SSV
Couldn't he use some out of an 05+ GM truck? The factory ones have never given me a problem in my 06 Yukon even at 117* temps.
i swapped from the e-fan back to the clutch fan and hated the clutch fan so i went back to the e-fan.
but i used a OEM lincoln mark viii fan so i wouldn’t have any failure issues with it since after market fans tend to fail much more frequently
GM actually had a single electric fan on the outside of the rad blowing in. It mounted on the right side and was an option. I have 1 on all my GMT 400 trucks and are wired to come on when the AC compressor turns on.
Summer time (no freeze) run 2 bottles of Water Wetter and about 1 gallon of AF (Green here) with the rest distilled water. You also need to re-route the heater hoses to eliminate the heater. (Intake manifold barb direct to radiator barb.) Noticeable improvement. 454TBI will idle at 180F (180 stat) with AC on and 100F outside. I switch back to 2 gal green AF and no water wetter for the winter. (Good for 0F.) Hook up heater again. I did make a shut-off valve for the heater line but its very heavy Stainless and would need a support that I haven't yet made.
Good for you Jimmy, keep it simple. I live in a way hotter climate, Texas, and own a 2wd version of your rig that I tow a small Airstream. Bone stock and never had any cooling issues ever. When I think of the money spent on the electric fans, (I think the first ones were a promo), but not the replacement fans, the larger alternator, the big 3 wiring upgrade, etc., I didn't understand the need. Gas mileage difference? Please...it's a beast, won't make a difference. Maybe a new Hayden fan clutch to replace the 25 yr old clutch is only $35. Enjoy watching your vids.
I did the same thing to my 02 2500 hd 6.0 silverado. It got very warm with the aftermarket electric fans i installed. I put the oem clutch fan back on, ran perfectly cool again. I will never put electric fans on a engine designed for a clutch fan again. I remember watching your video when you installed those electric fans. I recall laughing to my self saying he will regret it... well here we are. But hey we live and learn.
A note on your factory knows best.. 100% for sure. GM knows best.
Just to note, my engine only ever got warm in higher altitude. For the most part I had a great time with them. But yes, factory knows best !
GM knows best? LOL No. GM is notorious for knowing about existing problems and not fixing them unless forced to. The list is long. All mfgs. do it but GM has set the standard for foot dragging. Intake gaskets, wiper motors, ABS system, transmissions immediately comes to mind but it's a long list.
Buying AC Delco parts means you bought a part from Gates, Borg Warner, Dorman, etc. that Delco contracted as certified replacement part supplier. Buying Delco parts for your GM vehicle is way over rated. They are good parts but almost always made buy someone else. Example: Bought a "new" AC Delco serpentine belt tensioner from Rock Auto for my Chevy truck. It was a few bucks more than the Gates one. Came in a typical AC Delco box. Had Gates instruction sheet inside. Buyer beware.
@@x-man5056 ok, to a degree i will give you a point. However as you mentioned, all manufactures are at fault for mistakes not taken care of. However in the mid 90's vortec's as 1 rodes truck falls in. And up to 2005, GM knew best. You couldn't buy a more reliable, longer lasting truck in America than chevy or GMC period. Its fact.
@@alaskarailroad3996 So piston slap in the early 5.3 ltr LS motors is no mistake to you? 95's were OBD1, 96 up, OBD II. Somewhere in there they switched from TBI to EFI. They are not even the same pedigree.
I agree they are still good trucks/engines but they are far from mfg defect free and GM knew of many issues and still didn't fix them at mfg. They waited until the customer raised he// with them to get the already known fix done. Timing chain tensioner on 4.3's perfect example.
i have an 02 2500hd 6.0. went to the 05 silverado efans. truck is lifted 9” on 14 wides and 375/45r22’s and i live in houston. i can tow or run it hard all day. never goes above 210.
Revisiting this video. I tried an electric fan setup for a few months. I live where it gets over 100 for 5-6 months of the year. I didn't see any real benefit. The electric fans put a huge drag on the electrical system, that wasn't designed for it. I burned fuses and noticed a vibration at idle. I went back to my clutch fan and haven't thought about it since.
Lol. I know exactly what you mean because I've personally done the conversion myself. But I have to say it -when it comes to overheating and potential up-and-coming problems semicolon it's better to go with the factory blade system attached to your water pump. There's really no power loss either.
How about fuel consumption? I understand that with electric fans, the efficient use of fuel significantly improves
Yeah, I bet I’ll use more fuel. I’ll keep an eye on it and report back
Ehh, it's probably miniscule, barely enough to notice. You gotta remember too that if you follow the flow of energy, everything on this vehicle is ultimately gas powered 👍
@@LA_Commander correct, and the power/ gas milage difference is usually unnoticeable unless the AC is on and it's hot enough for the fan clutch to fully locks. You will know when it will sound like a plane taking off. I got $50 says he goes back.
There's a reason why oem parts are usually more expensive than aftermarket parts. Overall, they generally performs better and is more efficient than aftermarkets.
you also have space for the Diesel Radiator, that is thicker so more coolent to cool, but if you want more cooling? a higher capasity waterpump, lower rating on the thermostat
Higher capasity is no issue
Lower rating on the thermotat may cause engine do not get up to operating temperature. causing higer fuel consumtion, but on heavy loads it may recomending
but there is room for a single electric fan in front of radiator,,,,
Bigger cooler for the transmission...
You should install a pusher fan in front of the condenser
Nope! All that Pusher fan is going to do is restrict the airflow
Mechanical fans are great, but the space you had without them is something nice to have. I'm sure those electric fans are efficient, but they still draw probably a few horsepower from the alternator to function, mechanical fans are just simple! Really like your idea of a slim electric fan in between the radiator and mechanical fan.
The idea of a slim electric fan between the radiator and clutch fan is a BAD one! It will actually restrict the airflow and is a waste of time.
Next , time see you put a smaller electric fan on when ac is on.
Awesome content and nice video editing. Thanks!
That’s awesome! Thank you for the great comment!!!
I installed an electric fan on my Sonoma (s-10). It provides a huge power and gas mileage boost in the summer, but when it was a 100 degrees plus with the AC on the water temp would creep above 210 when setting at a drive thru. The voltage would also drop to 13v. I did the big 3 up-grade (correctly) and never had another problem. I was going to go alternator next followed by giving up just like him. I think most people who have problems should have spent more for a better aftermarket fan or found an oversized one from a junkyard. If I was going somewhere remote I would bring the mechanical fan as backup, it only requires one adjustable wrench to install it and the shroud.
Who the fu@$ wants to bring a FAN with them as a backup? Lol. Properly diagnose and fix what's wrong and stop being a bonehead
I think most people who have problems should go to a reputable garage and have it diagnosed and repaired as the factory designed it
@@roberts5118 Yeah you let another man put their fingers all up in your baby. Sicko!
Very good choice going back to the factory original, and using only original ACDelco parts when available. Yes, they usually do cost more, and there's a very good reason for that. Way more reliable!
Me an servido mucho tus vídeos a pesar de que no entiendo muy bien. El inglés saludos desde México hoy apenas cambie los pernos de la puertas y me sirvió mucho el vídeo hacer a de eso
Well, Jimmy - two years ago you had an AC problem using the clutch fan. What changed?
Usually that means the fan clutch is going out. It's possible he replaced it or more likely he is or was full of crap.
I was wondering the same thing. Perhaps he replaced the fan clutch when he reinstalled the mechanical fan? A bad fan clutch can certainly cause poor AC performance.
You did the right thing Jim no worries about fan motors 👍👍
Keep the fans and upgrade to the two core big block radiator...
I’ve never had any overheating issues in my 98. If anything I can get it to reach temp quick enough on a cold morning. Before I got it the previous owner replaced the radiator to a HP radiator and it sucks when I’m trying to warm it up to defrost the windshield
You have a thermostat issue. Might be stuck open or just too cold of a thermostat.
@@x-man5056 yeah I was thinking the same. When I cleaned out the truck after I got it I found a new thermostat hidden underneath the seat
@@arturodiaz4106 The newer thermostats are designed to fail in the open position. It will actually be about halfway open. This will cause slow warmup. I think you know what to do next. With winter near...
Places where engine gets overheated.
You probably have a thermostat problem if you can't get it to warm up. A bigger radiator will have no effect on warmup time since a properly functioning thermostat blocks coolant flow through the rad until the engine heats up anyways.
So are you also changing your alternator back to stock?
Sometimes Factory works other times they do not work . My 2009 Chevy Silverado 1500 with 4.3 v6 has dual E fans but they work went the ac is turned on or the temp goes over 230 temp .
water pump bushings love electric fans. Mechanical fans vibrate and transfer that vibration to the water pump shaft. Properly deployed electric fans are the go-to solution. Ask yourself how many Mercedes or BMW's are running fan clutches these days...
I was getting ready to put electric fans on my 98 GMC Yukon it doesn’t have a heating problem at all I just thought I could get more power and it would be better now I’m watching this video as I watch all of his videos I’m not gonna do it now but my brother did in his 04 Silverado and my other brother did it in his 01 GMC Sierra. They felt they got more power out of the motor
8:00 Mark. Got em.... You'll thank me.
The OEM fan being ducted close to the engine gives you some secondary cooling forcing the air around the block.
The random blade spacing is partly to create less of a single tone when spinning to keep it quieter.
Damn, brother, fix your ABS !That would be a useful video !
Haha! I know!! Bugs me so bad!
@@1RoadGarage at least do a video about cleaning the ends of the sensors where they read the reluctor in the hub, and checking the sensor wires for a break.
@@1RoadGarage HaHa. As OCD as you are, I can't believe you haven't corrected that. That would drive me crazy.
This all comes down to what you use it for. If it was an off-road buggy or didn't have enough airflow I would agree with electric. Also have an electric on the outside or inside as a secondary is not a bad idea either but running a fleet of 94-2002 I never had an issue with the factory stuff. Some of my tow vehicles that I worried about I have either put the next size rad up or switch to a 7 blade fan.
There's also something to think of, I'm no scientist but how the fans are shaped, angled and the distance also effects the outcome. The electric fans have a sharper angle but narrow bade to pull air through. I guess with 2 that makes for the 1 and draws across more evenly. With the factory fan, it blades are wider and it sits back farther but at the same time the shroud has enough distance to act like a Venturi causing more air to pull through.
The most important part is the fan shroud!! It increases the air flow and speed!
On another note, keep the wiring upgrade.I found that it helps radio noise suppression. Specifically a.m. wine like a bad bridge rectifier makes.
I just have my stock electric fans wired to a switch and relay that way I have control of when they come on
If you ever even THINK about putting those electric fans back on: Go to a car show (if you're ever allowed to again), and find someone with a Spal fan and feel the air it pulls. Then go find another with the same size 'brand X' (like yours) fan and feel the airflow.
You will never want those 'cheap' fans again.
I like your GMC : very nice.
I'd take advantage of some camping in that ride .
All good things must come to an end great video man
I done the same thing to my H2 Hummer 04 years back and I had all kan a issues like you did , overheating I put high amp alternator
I day I was upset about it and I took everything off and it all factory back and still running good
It's hard to beat a properly functioning clutch fan. You'll know when the clutch itself is getting weak because your air conditioning will suffer. You will think the fan clutch is working just fine because the fan is still turning but trust me, if your air conditioning starts to lag, and there's no other problems with the AC system, change the fan clutch. It will make a big difference. Mechanical fan clutches do not last forever.
Absolutely get the idea of installing an additional electric fan in-between the clutch fan and radiator "to help" cool it when the A/C is on. Where did you get your engineering degree from? Stop re-engineering with the engineers at the factory did for you already. In fact just leave it the way the factory had it with the clutch fan installed and you will have zero problems. And when that fan fails replace it with a replacement part and you're done. Stop trying to re-engineer things and help it because the fact is if you sandwich another electric fan in there you're going to be reducing the airflow of the clutch fan. The hundreds of thousands of these things on the road have no problems with anything overheating when they were brand new. So my advice is that when you have a problem diagnosed it and fix whatever is wrong with it and replace it with factory parts instead of re-engineering it and then trying to stuff extra fans in between and blocking your airflow and causing problems.
That's why all your over the road trucks have fan clutches, when the fan hub loses air pressure you can get home on that and change it out when you get there. Your fuel mileage goes in the toilet trust me it's happened to me
If you want better reliability from electric fans get OEM Lincoln Mark viii fans I got dual 18” mark viii and that move F**K ton of air and I mean A LOT!!! One of them alone moves more than TWO high output 16” fans combined! I uploaded a video on my channel showing when I did the clutch fan delete and installed dual 14’s since then I’ve made big changes, soon I’ll install a video of the Dual 18” mark viii fans!
Hey Jimmy, you'll probably notice that your AC performance at idle on a hot day will suffer a bit. Maybe not. Anyway, I put a severe duty fan clutch on my 2001 Tahoe and installed a GM specific pusher fan. This helped with AC performance at idle and general cooling when it's above 95 degrees outside.
Well,those electric fans were just blowing air in the whole engine space.While the orinal fan has a shrowd that direct the air on to the engine!Give the electric fans also a shrowd and they are the master in cooling!
Also he could put into count Which fan weighs more the less weight he as on and in the car the more power he can get that's what I think about when I have Emergency stuff in my truck
Fins spacing is for a noise management (frequency inconsistency).
LOL ! I told you this when you changed the fan !If you put in a new clutch fan you should replace the water pump !
Plasti coating the red GMC emblems in black would look awesome on that truck.
Turn the air cleaner lid upside-down and you will get your 🐎power back. That's how I ran my 1993 c1500 pickup.
And it will sound cool 😎
Recommend doing some research on how a fan clutch works. There is more to it than just RPM and more air. Just saying.
Fan clutches are good for gas mileage. But when they fall, it can damage the radiator. Electrics OK, but nothing compared to direct drive. Less parts less breakage. But then we’re back to fuel economy.
Hey Jimmy and All, recently i bought Lexuz GX460 2022 and as you know it is clutch based cooling fans. I think they are taking alot from the engine power + they are noisy, hence i am thinking of replacing them with a good electrical based cooling fans. What do you think? Dows the clutch fans provide more cooling than the electrical as the engine ramp up more or the electrical fans would be better in all aspects? I know the clutch is more reliable in some points as you are not relying in alternator and so on but i really hate them despite my car is really new, any advice please.
8:00
Nice alternator 👌🇺🇸
There are wind power testers why didn't you use those to test which one pulls more air
I had a 1978 Ford Granada that some stupid engineers designed. The two cylinders under the carb got a rich mixture and the 4 outside cylinders got a lean mixture. At 60,000 miles, the head was so warped it needed to be ground down. So keeping things to factory are not the best. Those factory guys don't care what is best, just what is cheapest. My 2015 RAM has such thin steel on the roof that pecans dropping from trees dent it! With two electric fans, one going out would not be a problem unless you were going up a good size hill. Also, you don't need the either fan at 50 mph or higher.
When are you gonna address the ABS light Jim? Mines on also on my 96 k2500
I love that truck.
I'm a fan of e-fans , they only come on when actually needed .. and you get a slightly quicker engine response. The only real downside as you said is reliability. Most newer cars have e-fans so I think they are more effecient in some regards.
@@LA_Commander yes e-fans doesn't tell when they stop working .. that's why the driver must listen to hear them come on. Do clutch fans really move more air? Doesn't that depend on the size and rpm specs.
@@LA_Commander I don't know much about trucks but if they still use clutch fans on modern trucks I guess they either move more air or they use them for reliability or both lol
Welcome everyone
I have done many experiments and projects to install an additional fan to increase the cooling of the air conditioner and the engine together, but after many experiments a wonderful way has been reached so that the clutch fan is not canceled and an electric fan was installed between the clutch fan and the water cooler and a variable speed control unit was used from FlexLight my car Trailblazer 2009 I hope to share the installation photos, given that the atmosphere in Saudi Arabia exceeds 50 degrees Celsius
with my 3/4 ton burb for best cooling I replaced the 5 blade to a 9 blade
You need to get the abs fixed. When the abs light is on it disables it. That caused me to be in a car accident 3 years ago with my 95 2 door yukon
Could have gone with a circuit breaker to replace the fuses for no fuse failure
Really stupid! Electric is way more efficient. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. This guy just loves to tinker. And you can't lose 10-20 hp from switching fans. Come on.
Dude, get off the electric fan mindset, that factory clutch fan is an engineering Marvel I live in Arizona it's extremely hot here in the middle of the summer and mine only clutches in occasionally when it does the truck sounds like a cement truck I love it it .
The factory clutch fan always spins and pulls air but it's not fully clutched in until the vehicle gets really hot, Even when my fan does clutch in it only does it for a minute or 2 and then the vehicle is cooled back down.
So think of the factory clutch fan as a dual speed fan because that's exactly what it is and when it clutches in you will hear it and there will be no mistaking it. You do not need and never will need an additional electric fan to assist the factory engineering Marvel of a clutch fan.🙂
Perfect example, 2003-2006 Silverado's. 03-04 clutch fan 05-06 electric fan. They switched for a reason, electric fans cool better. All the same truck E fans > Clutch fan.
Surprised you haven't replaced the instrument cluster
Hey 1ROAD can you make a video on how to flush a differential on a 2007 dodge ram 1500 hemi.thanks.
So Jimbo, is that PowerMaster alternator coming off now that your took the fans out?? It’s not stock man.
Haha! The power master has been out for a while. I’m running a Mechman 250 Elite and really happy with it.
@@1RoadGarage Good to know, my alternator is getting weak and looking for a food replacement. Can I ask why did you remove the Powermaster?? And how’s the New one performing? Thanks Jimmy
Greetings and please forgive me for asking. I live in Zimbabwe and have a rare right hand drive 95 suburban LS and would like to know where I may find a wiring diagram for the park, head, tail, turn and number plate lights? I have a problem with all the lights. Thanking you in advance.
Lloyd Searle
What you can do to make it better is buying a fan with more blades to draw more air through therefore making the engine work less to cool things down.
Hmmm what you can do to make it better is... Wait are you an engineer? A psychic perhaps? Can you diagnose his problem without even having the vehicle before you for testing? Will you then engineer it better than the factory engineers? Food for thought
@@roberts5118 well sir Robert even if I don't have the same car as his, I live in a country where heat is most of the year and temp go above a 140F° and we test certain ways trying to improve things either we succeed, or fail and try again. And yes there's always a place for improvements, or making things better otherwise why are all them aftermarket brands are still open and making money? Because they do offer better solutions sometimes. So please don't underestimate any possibility, or any person weather they were engineers, or not. It's all in the mind.
Good job. Very interesting
Stay Safe
Interesting about the space between the fan blades. What about a pusher fans?
I’m sure a pusher would be fine but for some reason I feel like pushing through is much less effective than pulling through...
@@1RoadGarage I should've clarified. I meant to say a pusher fan in addition tonight to the fan clutch. Is that a possibility?
@@1RoadGarage Correct assumption. But they still work.
Absolutely wrong and NO a pusher fan will NOT work. it will be even worse lmao. Why do you guys have to re-engineer it? Just diagnose what's wrong with it and replace the parts that are bad. But having a puller fan attached to the engine and then trying to re-engineer it and putting a pusher fan would be the most ridiculous thing you can do. you will have zero airflow! You'll have one fan on the engine pulling air and the other pushing it. Lol that will result in no airflow. Let's say you got rid of the fan clutch for some stupid reason, and then decided to put a pusher fan on the radiator. As long as you don't drive the car down the road you would be okay because the air is going to be getting pushed out the front of the radiator towards the front of the car. Then as soon as you start driving 25 mph you'll have 25 mph worth of airflow pushing back towards your engine against the flow of your pusher fan. So this would be a complete engineering fail lol.again why do you have to re-engineer it why don't you just diagnose what's wrong and fix what's wrong with it???
1Road that's a totally INcorrect assumption.
Good job jimmy !
Why is the ABS light on?
You went electric because of heating up sitting in traffic. You go off road,you will be going slowly. The clutch fan runs off of rpm. It would be almost like you were sitting in traffic. So the heating issue returns. Where's the sense in that?
Christopher Browne you are EXACTLY right!. When your engine overheats while sitting in traffic and runs fine while moving 25mph and above, it means ONE thing! It means your fan is not doing its job. And instead of going and re-engineering it and getting Pusher fans and puller fans and electric fans and shrouds and millions of other things, have it diagnosed at a repair shop and then replace it with whatever it was equipped with and engineered with. In your case it was a failed fan clutch, and congratulations for replacing it with a brand new fan clutch instead of re-engineering it and putting an electric fan on there!
Just curious, what made you put electric fans on in the first place? My '99 K2500 7.4L has never overheated under any condition so far...knock on wood!
Hallelujah! And when it does overheat simply have it diagnosed and repaired with factory replacement parts. Don't re-engineer it like a lot of these people do while they add extra parts and leave the field parts there.
*failed parts
No matter which you choose you'll still need to keep a spare