Here in Europe,when people were complaining about this problem. DT Swiss tried to ignore it at first. A bike magazine put them on blast about this problem! Then they decided to do something! No kudos to DT Swiss!
They sent me the replacement ratchet for free, DT Swiss customer support is the best! They also said that only the floating ratchet is the one that might have the surface issue.
Thanks for posting this. I just got an Uber home after losing total engagement on my ride. Have only done just over 1000km on them. Googled the issue and your video came up. Contacting Dt Swiss to solve it. Thanks again
Yup. Took a bus home, same exact thing. Only about 1000km of hard riding on my new Alpanist wheels. Sucked but send them to dt and got them back. Lets hope it holds up. DK what they they did tho
I’ve had exactly the same problem. Sent the wheel back and they replaced the hub internals ( I don’t know exactly which parts ). Received the wheel yesterday so I had no time to experience any problems so far. How are your hubs keeping? No skips anymore? I am scared it starts to skip again…
@@jamb6721 I’ve done a ~1000k on the wheels since they came back and so far no issues. Don’t know what they did exactly but my free hub sound is a bit quieter than it was before so whatever they did I’m sure there was a bunch of extra lube put on the teeth
@@GH-lv6xm Thanks! That gives me some peace of mind. Yes, my hub is definitely much quieter than previously which for me it is a bit of a disappointment but the most important thing is that it doesn’t give me trouble. Happy rides!
This just happened to me. I did exactly what you did and then after a few rides, it happened again. I'm glad I found this video. I was one of the affected serial numbers.
I've ordered new hubs (240), not knowing they may have issues. Luckily, it was pointed out to me, while discussing what hubs I should get on a forum. DT Swiss reply to emails about this issue incredibly quick. First email I sent them, asking what I should do, if my new hub is affected, I got a reply after just three minutes. Seems like they're really taking it seriously. Anyway, from my understanding, If you get a brand new hub, and you haven't used it. All you (may) need to replace is the little floating ratchet ring. If, however, you've been riding your hub, but still it doesn't show any signs of issues, they send you a new freehub body as well. And if your hub's already messed up inside, only then they send you all the internals (both the fixed and the floating ratchet, a spring and a new freehub body), which sadly you can't change yourself, because the fixed ratched ring requires their special tool (which costs €50 to buy).
Thanks for sharing. EXACTLY this happened to me halfway through my Maratona dles Dolomiti race yesterday. I am fuming, knowing this is a well-known problem and yet these hubs were put on my new, and definitely not cheap, bike. I will make sure to let them and Canyon know how I feel.
Found your video after this happened to me yesterday. It was on a climb, so I'm neutered myself on the top tube when I lost engagement. So there I was in 35 degree wind, wet from sweat, freezing watching the sunset from the side of the road. Had to wait almost an hour for my ride. I had no idea i could take it apart so easily..however, even at home, it was really hard getting that ratchet unstuck from the hub body. Thanks for info on DT, they've already sent me a mailing label. Looks like these are high maintenance hubs that will need constant attention to keep working smoothly.
Had the same problem, middle in a ride. Walked to a house to ask for some boiling water and throwed it over the cassette 😅 that brought me home. Wheel now at dt swiss for replacement parts.
Thanks for the time in explaining this. I had this happen today on a decent at 65kph. (Yikes). Rolled to a stop and cab ride home. I do have the same model and will contact DT Swiss for resolution.
I also have dirty grease in my 240 with ratchet exp, I inspected it and found that it is a free hub internal teeth parts, it is from alu, so ratchet ring wears it. The ratchet is like a new after 8k km, but free hub internal teeth are heavily worn...
the grease is black because of metal particles, not dirt. there must be some metal abrasion going on. I had aluminum shavings from the axle reinforcement tube. Put in a pretty sticky high teflon grease in there and will check later. Thick grease does not prevent the ratchet from floating, dirt/metal shavings do.
Thanks for your comment. You are correct. As I noted in the video, this is an issue that DT Swiss has acknowledged with the floating ratchet. There is a link in the description which lists the impacted hubs.
@@Mamilian i've had that problem on a chinese analogue of the 350 hub. Fortunately the aluminum shavings don't damage the steel ratchets. My take is that you need enough grease and that the grease must hold in place, and most importantly, it must have strong anti wear properties. therefore I added a generous amount of PTFE powder
Great video 😃 Hey guys get Hopes they are just quality hubs and have robust seal system on them! Reviews on Hopes have had guys with Hope hubs for 10/15/20 years in a lot of cases and no issues other than to replace the bearings as usual or a freehub depending on if it’s steel or aluminum and can be used off road or road. Never heard of DT lasting that long, like hope says. “are hubs might be the last hubset you’ll ever buy!”
I have the 18T ratchet in my 370 hub and so far they work great, this issue might be related to teeth number in the ratched. The more teeth the more maintenance and care required.. I rather have my 370 silent hub working great than a more expensive model sounding awesome but with functionality issues...
The new exp hubs use a different design. The inner ring is threaded into the hub on the new 180 and 240. 350 and 370 uses the old design where both ratchets float. As someone who is currently rebuilding a defective 240 exp, I much prefer the old design.
Jest to problem znany od początku istnienia tego systemu "grzechotkowego". Producent nabrał wody w usta a rozwiązanie problemu przerzucił na Klienta. Nie smar jest tu źródłem problemu a odkształcanie się sprężyn. Po dłuższym czasie użytkowania tych piast, sprężyny ocierają i wyrabiają dodatkowo rowki w aluminiowej tulei pracującej pomiędzy pierścieniami. To dodatkowo umożliwia odkształcenie się sprężyn w większym stopniu i tym samym powoduje częstsze przeskoki (co jest irytujące, niszczące dla pierścieni i niebezpieczne dla rowerzysty). Rozwiązaniem problemu jest empiryczna zmiana geometrii sprężyn (tak by ściskane zwoje przylegały niemalże do siebie i w pełnym ściśnięciu wewnętrzna średnica okręgu była większa niż wewnętrzna średnica otworów w pierścieniach). To sprawi, że piasta będzie pracować w pełni niezawodnie a pierścienie wykażą się zwiększoną żywotnością.
I have a hard time believing that the single spring works as good as the double spring. It feels like the single spring is inherently worse and problems will happen no matter the grease or surface finish.
I noticed that there was a large volume of grey matter (could be wearing of internals and accumulation), similar to what is shown in this video. It was usually sticky and the springs was literally stuck in a compressed state. I service my bearings regularly and apply the right viscosity grease. Given this is a relatively new wheel and hub, and to your point, suspect it's a design issue (single weak spring) and high wear of internals contributing to this issue. Either way, loosing control on a descent its scary and dangerous.
Relying on surface finish for ratchet engagement is soooo dumb. A spring behind each ratchet means they engage even if one gets stuck - it's sensible redundancy. A former DT Swiss engineer once posted online (post has been removed) that it is silly to "fuse" one ratchet to the inside of the shell - precisely because it is expected that the ratchets will move slightly around an axle that bends and twists...
I bought a 2022 Specialized Epic Evo Expert - comes standard with Roval Control SL wheels with DT Swiss EXP ratchet 350hub. It has the 2 spring / 2 floating star ratchet design which is supposedly better and more reliable then the new 1 spring / 1 floating / 1 fixed ratchet design. Yet I experienced the same issue on a 16km ride in July 2023. Free hub would let go intermittently and I thought the chain was skipping on the cassette. But I had a new cassette, new chain and chain ring. Max 300kms. Hot melt waxed chain from new so no wear. Then as I stood on the pedal to start from stop it let go completely causing pedal to go straight to bottom of stroke and I fell off! 0km per hour crash but I thought my chain had broke. 2 mates were behind or beside me and witnessed it. One said he could see cassette spin but wheel didnt move. Was able to ride last 3 kms but had to stay in light gears as too much power caused free hub to intermittently slip again. The issue continues..... how disappointing
The root cause of this issue is that the materials used for the problematic ratchets was inferior. The dark material in the grease is metal filings. If you haven't already contacted DT Swiss about your issue, I would. It's a massive safety issue. They need to make it right.
Not the first time this has plagued DT. The original Hugi hubs were bullet proof. But customer complaints about the loud ratcheting pushed them to re-design. That plus a change in ownership from Union to DT. Willi Hugi had control over the design and implementation of his hub when Union owned the brand. I have a pair on my first tandem that's 30 years old and I have NEVER serviced them! (Embarrassing to admit, I know!) Never skipped once. With tandem torque!* Unbelievably reliable. Then DT took over, tossed out his proven durable design and screwed it up. They subsequently fixed it, but it wasn't broken to begin with! Another design change and problems. Bummer because they were just re-establishing a reputation for quality and durability. *I've destroyed six hubs on my mountain tandem, so I'm familiar with rear hub torque limits. Oh, and Chris King and Rohloff are two hubs that can take it.
I have one (2 actually, a 350 and a 370) when I reassemble the freewheel works great until I clamp it int the frame, then it is stuck and won’t freewheel. Any idea how I solve? Did I lose a part?
It's hard to say without seeing it, but I suspect you might have. The end cap should interface with the inner race of the freehub bearing, if it's touching the freehub or outer race, this could explain what you're experiencing.
@@Mamilian That's exactly what it turned out to be. I have two sets of wheels, with 370 and 350 hubs, as I found out, the freehub bodies are NOT compatible between the two, well, the 350 body will work on the 370, but the 370 body hangs up on the seal for the 350, causing it to be an unplanned fixie. :). It assembles and seems to work up until you tighten up the through axle.
Any idea what DT Swiss actually replace? I'm planning on the 54 tooth upgrade for mine so I'm curious if I actually need to go without my wheels or just do the upgrade and fix it myself in the process.
On mine they replaced the freehub, floating ratchet, fixed ratchet, and spring. If you haven't ridden them, they will send you a new freehub and floating ratchet to self-service.
DT Swiss haven't done a recall on this. This free hub is in the roval wheels on the s-works SL7. Specialized had not heard about this issue when I brought my bike in this week to them. I fell off my bike because of this issue. Damaged myself and the bike
That really sucks. How bad is the damage? It surprises me that Specialized isn't aware of this issue (although maybe it shouldn't, their customer service isn't awesome in general). DT Swiss should be more proactive around communicating the issue and fixing wheels.
@@Mamilian I brought the bike into them before for the same issue but I had fixed it before hand. This time I sent them all the links from DT. Damaged break leaver and handlebar tape. Few other scratches. They said they would fix it all. They can't fix the cuts on my leg, bruised rib and sore shoulder. When I fell my mobile phone fell out of my pocket and I only noticed an hour later when I called for a lift. Nightmare of a day.
Interesting - I have a 2022 Epic Evo Expert XC bike with Roval wheels (owned by Specialized) and a DT 350 hub with 2 spring - 2 free floating ratchet design and the same happened to me. Fortunately only minor scratches to me.
AFAIK, DT Swiss ER 1400 aren't included in the list so I imagine you might be fine. But, it's not entirely clear to me what "240 Components hub" means in practice. Personally, I'd send the serial number (located under the disc rotor) to DT Swiss via the form at the bottom of their page and confirm either way. Better to know for sure, then have the hub fail at the wrong time and have a serious problem.
@@Mamilian my wheels are Roval (Specialized) but they decided to send the wheel to DtSwiss for repair. Came back after 1 month, did 2 pedal strokes and failed again!! Back to DtSwiss… again… still wating. Crap customer service from DtSwiss. Bad decision from Specialized.
@@ciw8688 180 EXP is lighter and IIRC comes with ceramic bearings. I don't want ceramic bearings, and the difference is ~$300, so I can do without that weight difference. 36t, unless you're looking at MTB. The faster engagement on a 54t is wasted on gravel/road, and AFAIK there's a small friction penalty from having more teeth.
@@Mamilian had you hub the serial number for the recall? I think mine it’s another serie, but stil it has the same exact problem has yours. I tried to clean everything and apply the special grease but nothing, today the problem have appeared again while I was riding. I purchased the wheel set in 2021
Re inventing the wheel(😄Hub).. Sucks so much that the tried and tested two spring ratchet was replaced with this crap.. Without the floating of the two springs the fixed ratchet will obviously get hammered.. The amount of 240s I've had they should have plenty of money for proper test and r and d.. Just admit it's a proper cock up and go back to what was and still is the best simple reliable and loved system.. I'm not buying any exp hubs exp ect them to fail me and 2nd place is first Looser.. Cummon DT pull your head out...
100% agreed. My 240 exp was starting to fail. I have the tools to repair so dt was nice enough to send me the replacement parts at least so I can keep my wheelset. Damn inner ring is threaded in so tight I can't get it out though. I miss the old design. Dt customer service was amazing but I'm not buying another set of exp hubs. I should have gone with Chris Kings.
@@grldm3 kings are nice but the iso mountains i have are heavy.. Do they even have a 240 equivalent in the range..? That said you cant get better quality wise my r45 hubs are butter smooth and i dont spend hours faffing with them.. The stuck ring i can sympathise over.. I have a 240 old style and i cant get the thing out its been bolted to angle iron using the 6 bolt iso then in a vice then heated and soaked in everything.. If i could find a dt socket for 1/2" breaker bar i may win.. Its non boost so probably not worth the fuss now.. Please post an update on the revised internals and lets see how the new hubs go.. We all make mistakes at least dt acknowledge this.. I must add the new xc dropper post with spring insides is gold and im loving it.. Its not much drop but enough to give you some more float on the bike..
@@Mamilian Is the problem completely solved after they replace your hub internals? I just got back my wheel yesterday after they fixed it and I am scared to ride it
@@jamb6721 So far, so good. I only have a few hundred on the hub I made the video about, but I have another 240 EXP wheelset with ~1,800 miles post fix.
Hope Ro RS4 are much better and way easier to service than DT! Hope only has two parts of the freehub! The freehub itself and a 1mm washer,”tool free to take off!” I’ve had mine Hopes for years and not a single issue. DTs are no doubt awesome hubs but this was one reason why I ride Hopes, they have less parts and service is a snap and ya don’t need a ring tool to pop the old bearings out like DTs just a small rubber malot to tap the bearing out and then press new ones in. Durability easy service, and practical hubs are a mainstay for me, I’d rather be riding than sitting on the side of the road fixing my rear hub, “that would just suck”!
I just recently had a crash during a race where I swore this was happening with my older style dt Swiss 350. Literally destroyed my sworks sl6 frame and got a ton of road rash and had to drop out of the stage race after the first day. Sounded like the ratchets were grinding together when I went to sprint and crank arms spun as something gave way. Couldnt prove that it was the hub so Im out of luck but kind of funny that these issues are coming out with the new hubs. Possible that it was the cassette skipping but was much more of a grinding sound.
Such a dumb design! The previous addition was so much better. Why release a new product, if it’s not an improvement over the old one. Reminds me a lot of the anther stupid design-The press fit bottom bracket. How could they possibly think that would be an improvement over a threaded one.😳😳
Thanks for your comment. As it turned out, the reason why the grease was that color is because it was suspending metal filings from the floating ratchet. DT Swiss has confirmed a manufacturing defect and swapped the ratchet and freehub for both of my 240 EXP wheelsets. There is a link in the description where the impacted hubs are listed.
I have the exact wheelset and brand new, never installed i took it out of the wrapping plastic myself. The wheel does the exact same thing. I looked inside the hub and found little grease very clean so that is not the same problem you are posting. Not really sure what my problem could be.
Here in Europe,when people were complaining about this problem. DT Swiss tried to ignore it at first. A bike magazine put them on blast about this problem! Then they decided to do something! No kudos to DT Swiss!
They sent me the replacement ratchet for free, DT Swiss customer support is the best! They also said that only the floating ratchet is the one that might have the surface issue.
Thanks for posting this. I just got an Uber home after losing total engagement on my ride. Have only done just over 1000km on them. Googled the issue and your video came up. Contacting Dt Swiss to solve it. Thanks again
Yup. Took a bus home, same exact thing. Only about 1000km of hard riding on my new Alpanist wheels. Sucked but send them to dt and got them back. Lets hope it holds up. DK what they they did tho
I’ve had exactly the same problem. Sent the wheel back and they replaced the hub internals ( I don’t know exactly which parts ). Received the wheel yesterday so I had no time to experience any problems so far. How are your hubs keeping? No skips anymore? I am scared it starts to skip again…
@@jamb6721 I’ve done a ~1000k on the wheels since they came back and so far no issues. Don’t know what they did exactly but my free hub sound is a bit quieter than it was before so whatever they did I’m sure there was a bunch of extra lube put on the teeth
@@GH-lv6xm Thanks! That gives me some peace of mind.
Yes, my hub is definitely much quieter than previously which for me it is a bit of a disappointment but the most important thing is that it doesn’t give me trouble. Happy rides!
This just happened to me. I did exactly what you did and then after a few rides, it happened again. I'm glad I found this video. I was one of the affected serial numbers.
I've ordered new hubs (240), not knowing they may have issues. Luckily, it was pointed out to me, while discussing what hubs I should get on a forum. DT Swiss reply to emails about this issue incredibly quick. First email I sent them, asking what I should do, if my new hub is affected, I got a reply after just three minutes. Seems like they're really taking it seriously. Anyway, from my understanding, If you get a brand new hub, and you haven't used it. All you (may) need to replace is the little floating ratchet ring. If, however, you've been riding your hub, but still it doesn't show any signs of issues, they send you a new freehub body as well. And if your hub's already messed up inside, only then they send you all the internals (both the fixed and the floating ratchet, a spring and a new freehub body), which sadly you can't change yourself, because the fixed ratched ring requires their special tool (which costs €50 to buy).
Thanks for sharing. EXACTLY this happened to me halfway through my Maratona dles Dolomiti race yesterday. I am fuming, knowing this is a well-known problem and yet these hubs were put on my new, and definitely not cheap, bike. I will make sure to let them and Canyon know how I feel.
Found your video after this happened to me yesterday. It was on a climb, so I'm neutered myself on the top tube when I lost engagement. So there I was in 35 degree wind, wet from sweat, freezing watching the sunset from the side of the road. Had to wait almost an hour for my ride. I had no idea i could take it apart so easily..however, even at home, it was really hard getting that ratchet unstuck from the hub body. Thanks for info on DT, they've already sent me a mailing label. Looks like these are high maintenance hubs that will need constant attention to keep working smoothly.
WOW! Sorry to hear that. Brutal.
Hey, how did you manage to finally get the ratchet unstuck from the hub body? I cannot in mine
sprayed Boeshield T-9 and a needle nose.
Ended up sending wheel to DT Swiss and they fixed for free. Took about a week.
Had the same problem, middle in a ride. Walked to a house to ask for some boiling water and throwed it over the cassette 😅 that brought me home. Wheel now at dt swiss for replacement parts.
That was very innovative! I wouldn't have thought of that.
Thanks for the time in explaining this. I had this happen today on a decent at 65kph. (Yikes). Rolled to a stop and cab ride home. I do have the same model and will contact DT Swiss for resolution.
Yikes is right!
What happened due to this issue on your decent?
Yeah, such a bummer happened to me with my DT 180s mid-race.
I also have dirty grease in my 240 with ratchet exp, I inspected it and found that it is a free hub internal teeth parts, it is from alu, so ratchet ring wears it. The ratchet is like a new after 8k km, but free hub internal teeth are heavily worn...
the grease is black because of metal particles, not dirt. there must be some metal abrasion going on. I had aluminum shavings from the axle reinforcement tube. Put in a pretty sticky high teflon grease in there and will check later. Thick grease does not prevent the ratchet from floating, dirt/metal shavings do.
Thanks for your comment. You are correct. As I noted in the video, this is an issue that DT Swiss has acknowledged with the floating ratchet. There is a link in the description which lists the impacted hubs.
@@Mamilian i've had that problem on a chinese analogue of the 350 hub. Fortunately the aluminum shavings don't damage the steel ratchets. My take is that you need enough grease and that the grease must hold in place, and most importantly, it must have strong anti wear properties. therefore I added a generous amount of PTFE powder
Thank you for posting this! I have been super frustrated with my hub breaking mid ride the last 3 rides.
Great video 😃 Hey guys get Hopes they are just quality hubs and have robust seal system on them! Reviews on Hopes have had guys with Hope hubs for 10/15/20 years in a lot of cases and no issues other than to replace the bearings as usual or a freehub depending on if it’s steel or aluminum and can be used off road or road.
Never heard of DT lasting that long, like hope says. “are hubs might be the last hubset you’ll ever buy!”
Thanks for the video. FYI - my grease was silver colored from day 1, vs the normal pink colored DT star rachet grease
I have the 18T ratchet in my 370 hub and so far they work great, this issue might be related to teeth number in the ratched. The more teeth the more maintenance and care required.. I rather have my 370 silent hub working great than a more expensive model sounding awesome but with functionality issues...
The new exp hubs use a different design. The inner ring is threaded into the hub on the new 180 and 240. 350 and 370 uses the old design where both ratchets float. As someone who is currently rebuilding a defective 240 exp, I much prefer the old design.
Jest to problem znany od początku istnienia tego systemu "grzechotkowego". Producent nabrał wody w usta a rozwiązanie problemu przerzucił na Klienta. Nie smar jest tu źródłem problemu a odkształcanie się sprężyn. Po dłuższym czasie użytkowania tych piast, sprężyny ocierają i wyrabiają dodatkowo rowki w aluminiowej tulei pracującej pomiędzy pierścieniami. To dodatkowo umożliwia odkształcenie się sprężyn w większym stopniu i tym samym powoduje częstsze przeskoki (co jest irytujące, niszczące dla pierścieni i niebezpieczne dla rowerzysty). Rozwiązaniem problemu jest empiryczna zmiana geometrii sprężyn (tak by ściskane zwoje przylegały niemalże do siebie i w pełnym ściśnięciu wewnętrzna średnica okręgu była większa niż wewnętrzna średnica otworów w pierścieniach). To sprawi, że piasta będzie pracować w pełni niezawodnie a pierścienie wykażą się zwiększoną żywotnością.
i use dt swiss and i service my hubs and consider myself an expert on this product.
The Problem is not the grease or the spring. Its the ratchet that is faulty and gets stuck inside the hub. DTswiss must replace it.
I have a hard time believing that the single spring works as good as the double spring. It feels like the single spring is inherently worse and problems will happen no matter the grease or surface finish.
I noticed that there was a large volume of grey matter (could be wearing of internals and accumulation), similar to what is shown in this video. It was usually sticky and the springs was literally stuck in a compressed state. I service my bearings regularly and apply the right viscosity grease. Given this is a relatively new wheel and hub, and to your point, suspect it's a design issue (single weak spring) and high wear of internals contributing to this issue. Either way, loosing control on a descent its scary and dangerous.
Relying on surface finish for ratchet engagement is soooo dumb. A spring behind each ratchet means they engage even if one gets stuck - it's sensible redundancy. A former DT Swiss engineer once posted online (post has been removed) that it is silly to "fuse" one ratchet to the inside of the shell - precisely because it is expected that the ratchets will move slightly around an axle that bends and twists...
I bought a 2022 Specialized Epic Evo Expert - comes standard with Roval Control SL wheels with DT Swiss EXP ratchet 350hub. It has the 2 spring / 2 floating star ratchet design which is supposedly better and more reliable then the new 1 spring / 1 floating / 1 fixed ratchet design. Yet I experienced the same issue on a 16km ride in July 2023. Free hub would let go intermittently and I thought the chain was skipping on the cassette. But I had a new cassette, new chain and chain ring. Max 300kms. Hot melt waxed chain from new so no wear. Then as I stood on the pedal to start from stop it let go completely causing pedal to go straight to bottom of stroke and I fell off! 0km per hour crash but I thought my chain had broke. 2 mates were behind or beside me and witnessed it. One said he could see cassette spin but wheel didnt move. Was able to ride last 3 kms but had to stay in light gears as too much power caused free hub to intermittently slip again. The issue
continues..... how disappointing
The root cause of this issue is that the materials used for the problematic ratchets was inferior. The dark material in the grease is metal filings. If you haven't already contacted DT Swiss about your issue, I would. It's a massive safety issue. They need to make it right.
@@Mamilian I sent them an email today detailing my issue
@@secretounum1123 Please keep me updated (here or shoot me an email). It's crazy that this issue is still an issue.
Pulled mine apart and its the exact same grease, must come from the factory like that. Mine isn't a 308 though. Ratchets looked ok.
Not the first time this has plagued DT. The original Hugi hubs were bullet proof. But customer complaints about the loud ratcheting pushed them to re-design. That plus a change in ownership from Union to DT. Willi Hugi had control over the design and implementation of his hub when Union owned the brand. I have a pair on my first tandem that's 30 years old and I have NEVER serviced them! (Embarrassing to admit, I know!) Never skipped once. With tandem torque!* Unbelievably reliable.
Then DT took over, tossed out his proven durable design and screwed it up. They subsequently fixed it, but it wasn't broken to begin with!
Another design change and problems. Bummer because they were just re-establishing a reputation for quality and durability.
*I've destroyed six hubs on my mountain tandem, so I'm familiar with rear hub torque limits. Oh, and Chris King and Rohloff are two hubs that can take it.
I have one (2 actually, a 350 and a 370) when I reassemble the freewheel works great until I clamp it int the frame, then it is stuck and won’t freewheel. Any idea how I solve? Did I lose a part?
It's hard to say without seeing it, but I suspect you might have. The end cap should interface with the inner race of the freehub bearing, if it's touching the freehub or outer race, this could explain what you're experiencing.
@@Mamilian That's exactly what it turned out to be. I have two sets of wheels, with 370 and 350 hubs, as I found out, the freehub bodies are NOT compatible between the two, well, the 350 body will work on the 370, but the 370 body hangs up on the seal for the 350, causing it to be an unplanned fixie. :).
It assembles and seems to work up until you tighten up the through axle.
Hey, how could you finally get the ratchet unstuck from the hub body? I cannot in mine pulling as you have done in the video
The ratchet in the freehub should come right out because the spring is pushing on it. You might be able to use a pick to encourage it, if it's not.
Just ordered a bike with the ERC1400 Dicut.
In their website it says
“240 with Ratchet EXP 36”
So this hub is expected to have the same issues?
The only way to know for sure is to check the serial number. If they were manufactured after they fixed the issue, they would be good to go.
Any idea what DT Swiss actually replace? I'm planning on the 54 tooth upgrade for mine so I'm curious if I actually need to go without my wheels or just do the upgrade and fix it myself in the process.
On mine they replaced the freehub, floating ratchet, fixed ratchet, and spring. If you haven't ridden them, they will send you a new freehub and floating ratchet to self-service.
i never liked this hub. i knew it was flawed. i use a 350 with the freefloating two piece ratchet.
I had this issue on this hub as well - 350 free floating two piece
Hi. I was wondering if you got those with your farsports wheelset? I’m wondering if they have the new batch of hubs that work now. Do you know?
Unfortunately, the only way to know is to check the hub serial number.
@@Mamilian oh I emailed them. They said it was resolved. So I assume the new wheels will be fine. Thank you
Any issues with the wheels ? I am getting mine soon.
Feder 45 with 240 exp
DT Swiss haven't done a recall on this. This free hub is in the roval wheels on the s-works SL7. Specialized had not heard about this issue when I brought my bike in this week to them. I fell off my bike because of this issue. Damaged myself and the bike
That really sucks. How bad is the damage? It surprises me that Specialized isn't aware of this issue (although maybe it shouldn't, their customer service isn't awesome in general). DT Swiss should be more proactive around communicating the issue and fixing wheels.
@@Mamilian I brought the bike into them before for the same issue but I had fixed it before hand. This time I sent them all the links from DT. Damaged break leaver and handlebar tape. Few other scratches. They said they would fix it all. They can't fix the cuts on my leg, bruised rib and sore shoulder. When I fell my mobile phone fell out of my pocket and I only noticed an hour later when I called for a lift. Nightmare of a day.
@@DavidDickens1 Damn...
Interesting - I have a 2022 Epic Evo Expert XC bike with Roval wheels (owned by Specialized) and a DT 350 hub with 2 spring - 2 free floating ratchet design and the same happened to me. Fortunately only minor scratches to me.
Does this affect any of the DT 350 hubs, or just the 240’s?
The full list is available at the link in the description. I don't think 350 is in the list, I think it's an EXP (new hub design) problem.
Only EXP hubs. Dt350 design remains unchanged from previous models... and problem free.
Hi- will this be an issue for my DT Swiss ER 1400 disc brake wheels? I believe they use the 240 hub, not sure if it's 240 EXP. Thanks for the vid
AFAIK, DT Swiss ER 1400 aren't included in the list so I imagine you might be fine. But, it's not entirely clear to me what "240 Components hub" means in practice. Personally, I'd send the serial number (located under the disc rotor) to DT Swiss via the form at the bottom of their page and confirm either way. Better to know for sure, then have the hub fail at the wrong time and have a serious problem.
@@Mamilian Thanks- useful info
Any idea if these issues are fixed with all new wheels? Thanks in advance!
Any wheel manufactured shortly before this video was made should be fine. You can check the serial number just to be safe though.
same issue today... had to pay 70USD for a cabify ride to come back home -.-
Sorry to hear that. Super annoying issue that should never have slipped through.
that grease looks like it has metal in lol
It does. The ratchet was grinding itself to bits.
Watch out: problem is still not solved by Dtswiss.
My new wheels have a “1” serial number and still had engagement failures
That is really disheartening. Did they offer any solutions?
@@Mamilian my wheels are Roval (Specialized) but they decided to send the wheel to DtSwiss for repair. Came back after 1 month, did 2 pedal strokes and failed again!! Back to DtSwiss… again… still wating. Crap customer service from DtSwiss. Bad decision from Specialized.
Wow! WTF!?! You'd think they would test them before sending back to you.
What hub should i consider in 2023 if i have the budget? (reliability, parts availability, and performance for road cycling)
It might sound weird, given this issue, but the 240 EXP is my go to hub. The 350 is better value though.
@@Mamilian how is the 240exp when compares to the 180? And should i go for 36t or 54t?
@@ciw8688 180 EXP is lighter and IIRC comes with ceramic bearings. I don't want ceramic bearings, and the difference is ~$300, so I can do without that weight difference. 36t, unless you're looking at MTB. The faster engagement on a 54t is wasted on gravel/road, and AFAIK there's a small friction penalty from having more teeth.
@@Mamilian i can buy an aero handlebar for 300$ and save loads of weight, thanks for the advices
Did they service you even if it is a Farsport wheel?
UI have the same exact issue
Yep. Both sets.
@@Mamilian I have to write them again.. they refused me to service the hubs
@@desperados988 That is bizarre! They should have no problem servicing the hub, it's a recall. This is a safety issue.
@@Mamilian had you hub the serial number for the recall? I think mine it’s another serie, but stil it has the same exact problem has yours. I tried to clean everything and apply the special grease but nothing, today the problem have appeared again while I was riding. I purchased the wheel set in 2021
@@desperados988 Oh, that might be it! Both my serial numbers were in the recall set.
Good to know I definitely won't be buying dt swiss now.
Mine instead i ship my wheels to them, DT Swiss ship the parts to me and i change it myself.
Old design is better, repairability wise.
Are new hubs now safe to buy? Thinking of 180
Unless it's been sitting on a shelf for a while, yes. Definitely want to confirm the serial numbers if you can beforehand, or after if you can't.
Re inventing the wheel(😄Hub).. Sucks so much that the tried and tested two spring ratchet was replaced with this crap.. Without the floating of the two springs the fixed ratchet will obviously get hammered.. The amount of 240s I've had they should have plenty of money for proper test and r and d.. Just admit it's a proper cock up and go back to what was and still is the best simple reliable and loved system.. I'm not buying any exp hubs exp ect them to fail me and 2nd place is first Looser.. Cummon DT pull your head out...
100% agreed. My 240 exp was starting to fail. I have the tools to repair so dt was nice enough to send me the replacement parts at least so I can keep my wheelset. Damn inner ring is threaded in so tight I can't get it out though. I miss the old design. Dt customer service was amazing but I'm not buying another set of exp hubs. I should have gone with Chris Kings.
@@grldm3 kings are nice but the iso mountains i have are heavy.. Do they even have a 240 equivalent in the range..? That said you cant get better quality wise my r45 hubs are butter smooth and i dont spend hours faffing with them.. The stuck ring i can sympathise over.. I have a 240 old style and i cant get the thing out its been bolted to angle iron using the 6 bolt iso then in a vice then heated and soaked in everything.. If i could find a dt socket for 1/2" breaker bar i may win.. Its non boost so probably not worth the fuss now..
Please post an update on the revised internals and lets see how the new hubs go.. We all make mistakes at least dt acknowledge this.. I must add the new xc dropper post with spring insides is gold and im loving it.. Its not much drop but enough to give you some more float on the bike..
Same problem with my 180 hub. Just sent it in to DT. Anyone get theirs back yet? Wondering what the turn around time is…
I was without my wheels for about a week. DT Swiss did the repair the same day, so the rest was shipping time.
Such a JOKE that they advertise the EXP are MORE durable lol
Same here. DT Swiss XRC 1501 XD wheel 240 hub ;-(
From this experience with this hub issue, would you recommend purchasing the Feder wheelset with the Far300 or Far230 hub instead? Thanks.
No. Nothing is perfect. DT Swiss had a problem, they did the right thing. Only thing it cost me was a week off the wheel.
@@Mamilian Is the problem completely solved after they replace your hub internals?
I just got back my wheel yesterday after they fixed it and I am scared to ride it
@@jamb6721 So far, so good. I only have a few hundred on the hub I made the video about, but I have another 240 EXP wheelset with ~1,800 miles post fix.
@@Mamilian thanks. It gives me some peace of mind 😄
3 pawl here, cheap and reliable syncros wheels made by Dt swiss. No ratchet problemo muahahaha.
Hope Ro RS4 are much better and way easier to service than DT! Hope only has two parts of the freehub! The freehub itself and a 1mm washer,”tool free to take off!”
I’ve had mine Hopes for years and not a single issue.
DTs are no doubt awesome hubs but this was one reason why I ride Hopes, they have less parts and service is a snap and ya don’t need a ring tool to pop the old bearings out like DTs just a small rubber malot to tap the bearing out and then press new ones in. Durability easy service, and practical hubs are a mainstay for me, I’d rather be riding than sitting on the side of the road fixing my rear hub, “that would just suck”!
I just recently had a crash during a race where I swore this was happening with my older style dt Swiss 350. Literally destroyed my sworks sl6 frame and got a ton of road rash and had to drop out of the stage race after the first day. Sounded like the ratchets were grinding together when I went to sprint and crank arms spun as something gave way. Couldnt prove that it was the hub so Im out of luck but kind of funny that these issues are coming out with the new hubs. Possible that it was the cassette skipping but was much more of a grinding sound.
WOW! Sorry to hear that. Thanks for sharing your experience, I will definitely keep an eye out for that on my hubs.
You aren't imagining mate, this happened to me too - DT Swiss 350 with 2 piece 2 spring free floating type. See my comment July 2023 at top
Such a dumb design! The previous addition was so much better. Why release a new product, if it’s not an improvement over the old one. Reminds me a lot of the anther stupid design-The press fit bottom bracket. How could they possibly think that would be an improvement over a threaded one.😳😳
Happened to a friend of mine and he tore his rotator cuff I won’t be buying these hubs!!
Wow! That sucks. Definitely a massive safety issue.
Far too much grease. It's obvious. And use original DT Swiss rachet grease only.
Thanks for your comment. As it turned out, the reason why the grease was that color is because it was suspending metal filings from the floating ratchet. DT Swiss has confirmed a manufacturing defect and swapped the ratchet and freehub for both of my 240 EXP wheelsets. There is a link in the description where the impacted hubs are listed.
I have the exact wheelset and brand new, never installed i took it out of the wrapping plastic myself. The wheel does the exact same thing. I looked inside the hub and found little grease very clean so that is not the same problem you are posting. Not really sure what my problem could be.