ENGINE REBUILD GM LS V8 PART 1 TEAR DOWN AND INSPECTION
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- So, today we are doing something a little different. We are doing an engine rebuild on a 2006 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 with a 4.8l V8 engine. The engine is burning oil and blowing smoke out of the tail pipe. With over 340,000 miles on this engine, it's time for a rebuild. So the customer wanted to take this opportunity to replace his tired old 4.8 with a 5.3. So we found one at a local salvage yard for a decent price. Now its time to dissasemble it and inspect it, so we can see what can and can't be salvaged. Follow along I i teach you several different methods used to measure engine for wear. Techniques include using a bore dial gauge to measure for cylinder taper, out of round and oversize. Stay alert for part 2 of this video in which we put everything back together. Thanks for watching!
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This is the best LS tear down video ive seen. No rambling on, side stories, lokes, or other BS. Just the facts. Great job
Just a little tip from another gear head that loves building engines if you ever want to know if a scrapyard engine had water in the oil before or after being in the yard just look in the oil pump like the one you just took apart notice the oil in the pump was not milky that’s a good sign that the water was not in the engine before the scrapyard it’s not full proof but it’s a good indicator thx for the videos my friend I enjoy watching someone that knows what he’s doing not just acting like you do!
I have been ase a1 engine certified since 1975. I have twisting wrenches for 50 years. I have taught auto. Your video is very good over view explaining what is involved in a rebuild. Very nice. Excellent
That's what I want in a mechanic person. Someone that cares about their customers and do a great job. Like you. I love your videos
This is NOT what you want..he incorrectly named ALOT of different components in this engine
Great job showing pro level measurements.
I recommend this channel to any automotive technician thump up.
Wow! Great detail in your teaching! Thank you, I learned a lot from your video. Much appreciated!
Never rebuilt an engine, but if I ever do, I will be returning to THIS video series. I felt thoroughly informed on the process of taking apart and piecing together the very engine I have today. Thanks for taking the time out to make this video, and I have shared it on my SM accounts🙏🙏🙏
Man you seriously kicked major butt .
You made this so easy to learn you even made me smarter.
I'm so serious I can't thank you enough for sharing your experience and knowledge.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family.
Not gonna lie this is probably the best video to watch if your taking apart and rebuilding a 4.8/5.3 this guy actually knows what he’s talking about and explains everything you need to know keep up the great work and information my guy 👍💪
6.0 are same as this
Thank; you for the information.This is my first time with the 5.3.total different; from the old Engine.
Unbelievable video I learned more on this video then I have watched in the last 50 videos. Great job.❤
Been 45 years since I rebuilt an engine, I still remember what a pita those cam bearings were. Only get one chance to get the oil hole lined up.
I'm doing a LS swap in my YJ Jeep. This video really explains well what I need to do with my junkyard motor. THANKS!
I'm prepping for an LS swap in my '92 YJ also...we have an old Silverado with a 5.3 that i'm going to rebuild
I like these kind of videos. I’m always impresses with the amount of knowledge these guys retain
I'm in the debating process of doing an LS swap into a 1978 Chevy K10. I'm new to the auto repair game and this was a super helpful video. I pay my bills as an aircraft mechanic(2 years in now), so this video made it super easy to understand how and why you did certain checks. Thanks man. You gave me faith in being able to rebuild an LS! 🤘🏿🤘🏿
Just right approach! Great Balanced process without fanatical attempts and overwhelming attention for superior precision - it`s exact right way to doing business and satisfy average customer in point of budget repair. Great Job! Looking forward to see more great videos on Your channel.
Thank you for watching!
At a minimum, would send out heads and block, crank, rods for machining, Buy new lifters, cam, push rods, harmonic balancer, oil pump, pistons, rings, bearings, timing set, water pump. Definitely MLS head gaskets. Then shorty headers, Flowmasters. Aftermarket coils, Brisk plugs. Aftermarket intake, throttle body.
crimp creep yeah tell that to the customer who’s paying lol 😂
This video deserves more views. i took a motor apart when I was 19 but it was a chevy 350 almost similar to this one and it refreshed my memory thankyou so much , you explained everything in detail you got a subscriber 🙏👍
This video reminds me of when I was in engine repair class a little less than a year ago. So much fun just taking an engine apart and seeing how everything goes together. Putting it back together is a little less fun but still a helpful experience 😂
I like auto repair vids. Seen many about engine rebuilds and internals but this is by far the most clear and informative I have seen. Muchas Gracias.
Very professional well explained
My thoughts on "calibrating" the digital dial caliper & dial bore gauge...
1- You're setting it up, not calibrating it. The caliper could be out at 3.750" and good at 0.030". If you have a mic set, use the 3" & 4" standards to verify range use is good.
2-Once caliper is locked, pivot dial bore gage from the end without rollers since you're not in a cylinder. The part that moves is between the rollers. Notice your bore was -0.0005 (undersize after 300k miles).
3-If caliper jaws are long enough, you can turn gauge 90 degrees and set with wheels on the jaws and pivot like normal. You don't need to pivot far (thinkness of jaws is your limit for pivot this way).
Just some food for thought.
Thanks for the effort doing vedio
I learned lot from your Chanel
Appreciate
Indeed your video is useful and exciting 😊 I love IT.
Great video Eric. Very informative and packed with lots of useful information which can be applied to any engine. thank you for sharing 👍👍👍
Thank you for watching!
Something else to consider (more on aluminum blocks) is checking bore on axis with head bolt holes.
If your machine shop doesn't use a torque plate for boring/honing, this is must.
Huge salute to his effort to explain
thanks for your informative take on this
Been watching many videos lately trying to learn yours was the most detailed thank you very much
Great video, you presented information easy to understand. Engine rebuilding still gives me a challenge but I’m learning. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
EXCELLENT video! Building a junkyard 5.3 and you answered a lot of questions. Browsed through many videos on this subject and yours is the best. Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience.
Glad it was helpful!
Damn... prolly one of the best tear down videos ive watched yet... very informative
Nice demonstration of how to disassemble and use a dial indicator on an engine .
Thank you! I hope I was able to explain it well enough.
Best video I've seen. Thank you. Answer so many of my questions
Excellent job
Great breakdown and troubleshooting techniques!!
Thanks for making these videos. Your videos are always right to the point. I never knew you did engine tear downs. Usually your doing some electronic/electrical stuff.
Good Tutorial!
When checking cylinder head and block deck for straightness you should not just go side to side but diagonal corner to corner as well. I’ve had many engines that were flat side to side but out on a diagonal.
This video inspired me to rebuild my engine! Thanks so much!
Great video! Love it when people get to the chase on what they’re doing.
Excellent description and great camera work. Enjoying this but then I enjoy all your videos.
I'm going thru your earlier vids, b4 i discovered you. Great content way back then!! I share with my buds. Keep em coming!! 🤘🤘
Thanks, very good
340K out of the original engine is pretty impressive. He must really love this vehicle to spend this much on it.
I sure do.
Its a clean truck and at its age he likely has it paid off. This is a much cheaper alternative to him getting himself into another truck note
my engine is still running after 416k miles on it, still runs better than the stock 5.3 ls vortec new
Excellent imformative vid...keep up the good work bro..
Thank you for watching!
Beast mode!!!!!! Cyl hone will take care of all that.
It sure did. Thanks for watching!
Great stuff bro thanks
thanks' Man learned so much!!
great video. tons of info here
Thank you!
Perfect 👍
That’s how a $7,000 dollars job looks like !
super awesome video, I learned a huge amount from this video
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
My brother has that motor in his tahoe so it'll come in handy one of these days.
This is really great I appreciate this so much !!!
I love the way you explain this task I am about to perform.
We should swap subscriptions.
Thank you for your knowledge . Great video
Very informative video I enjoyed thank you
Gerotor oil pump. The lower main bearings take the most load and the upper rod bearings take the most load. Look at those to see if they are scored badly. If they are then the crankshaft bears close inspection for oval journals.
Thank you for the correction!
340,000 holy crap!!! my 2001 Sierra with a 4.8 0nly has 146,000. Good to know I have a while to go before I need a new engine. I run Mobil 1 synthetic with a Mobil 1 oil filter.
My 02 Ford mustang GT 5speed car. Has a 4.6 2 valve engine Feb will b years 17 I've owned Baby and 350000.0miles I've always used Mobile full syn 10w30 and Motocraft filters!! Never Had first trouble!! Best car I've ever had!!
Very helpful video. Thank you!
Great job Eric. Always well explained 👍
Thanks for watching!
WELL DONE!!!!!!WAITING FOR THE SECOND VIDEO NOW!!!!!!!!!
On the way. Thank you for watching!
AND SHARING.......ALWAYS REMEMBER THAT..
Most shops today won't touch a rebuild---it's too time and labor intensive, and costs about the same as buying a rebuilt long block with a warranty
Exactly what I was going to say. Get the bay freed up!
Reminds me of looking at old service manuals, where mechanics actually rebuilt parts instead of replacing them. It is refreshing to see a shop actually doing more than part swapping.
Very true. I only agreed to do it because the customer insisted and plus these engines are fairly simple to rebuild. Thank you for watching!
Great video good job.
Man new to the channel, but love the content and hope to learn things that other site's don't take time to explain
Thank you for watching!
I have a 5.3 with occult coolant loss, about 4L per month. Pressure testing was normal and there is no pudding in the oil pan, though there is a little pudding under the oil fil cap. On review of the topic I discovered the 5.3 was prone to subtle cracking of the cylinder heads, often resulting in coolant loss and oil/water pudding under the valve covers. It's a great engine but the rust in your pushrods on one side is a little disconcerting. How would rain get in there?
That would seem to me those are cracked heads. Typical with the 706 heads
Wow, I can't believe I just happened to be looking for some really in depth info on LS teardown and you posted this today. I had been looking for a while and never could find anything that had the level of detail that I needed to wrap my head around it. This is it! Well done, liked and subscribed.
Awesome! I'm glad I could help! I'll be posting the 2nd part of the video hopefully tomorrow. Thanks for watching!
You're like a drill sergeant, but I like you
Wow, excellent video and channel! Great overview with lots of detail. New sub. You have to be teaching this stuff somewhere other than just here on YT.
A very good video i give u 10 out of 10 nice thanks!!
Nice details. How did those 706 heads look around the rocker arm boss on the cylinders that had some rust on them? They like to crack there.
castech 706 heads were prone to cracking and leaky valves any battery logo heads were castech heads
Excellent content!!!!
Thank you for watching!
You need to calibrate the caliper near to the size you are measuring because the caliper could be bent in some way. To correctly calibrate your bore gauge you need to use a micrometer and check it first with a known size object, best would be to use slip gauges, you will never see an engineer set a bore gauge this way it is totally wrong.Having said that I like all your videos and hopefully we can share some tips with you.
3.780 is stock bore size for 5.3 for everyone
I was 1000th thumb up! Lol
Im daily driving my 04 it has 480,000 on it original motor and drivetrain and im a autotech myself and i use the truck for everything it gets used for sure lol
Subscribed!!! Great video
Heads in-between valves
White smoke is head gasket black smoke rings do a chemical test on rad fumnes it will tell kit from advanced
Awesome work! But I can’t help, in my minds eye, I see an old grampa, sitting in a rocking chair, “congratulations son, you’ve just married an engine” 😂😂
HAHAHAHA!!!
Great vid , no nonsense , However , if it were me there would be a 6.0L on that engine stand.
Isn't the removal of the heads the reverse torque sequence? I makes no sense to loosen the middle of the head first as it might want to bow?
That's a H type main bearings
Someone refreshed this engine in the past
What’s the difference between this tear down and a 5.3 that has the kick down to 4 cylinder feature? I think it’s also known as the AFM (Active Fuel Management)
you could also make it as an auto tech teacher
I see a 86/87 grand national motor laying on the floor
last time i checked water and oil don’t mix but hey what do i know
Pretty good video, but it makes me cringe seeing him pushing out the pistons through the cylinders with the business end of that long screwdriver, and not the handle. Overall, looks pretty good! we are going to go ahead and continue watching this video!
What can't you do while the engine is still in the truck?
do you have to replace conrod cap bolts? or is it safe enough to reuse them?
Hey guys ,I have a 2008 GMC sierra Dinali I recently start having oil pressure issue so I remove the oil pressure sensor and use a pick to get the screen but there was no screen it was a 3” pick that fell in the hole and I could not get it out I remove the oil pan and still cannot see any pick what should I do?
I'm not a mechanic, but all the videos about head removal said to remove the screws in the opposite order of torque sequence. I see you do it in the same order. Are they wrong? I am very confused right now.
Like your details and your help with this information is awesome and would like your help on my vehicle if you want I don’t know how to contact you but love your work if you time I am close to Houston on the south side off I 45 vehicle is 2003 suburban 2500 6.0L have some A/C problems can you help me out with that????
Awesome and very detailed video how much would you charge for a engine rebuild 👍 like this?
White smoke
Do you have to change the computer when you go from 4.8 to 5.3
Hello. Thanks for the videos. I wanted to ask can a LS engine have good oil pressure with a new oil pump and also have a rod knock?