Cambridge Audio - Aero 9 Subwoofer repair - A proper hard repair, no, the swearing didn't helped
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- čas přidán 22. 05. 2024
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how you keep cool and not quit when things don't work as expected - is real inspiration
I can't help but keep smiling on Sorin's videos. Those are such a proper calibrated diodes. Perfect fit too.
Best electronics repair teacher I've ever seen.
I come from Romania too and when I saw the title of this video I did hope Sorin will draw some swearing gems from our nation considerable experience. I can disclose to you now that he is a master in complicated electronics repairs but an amateur in swearing. If you came here to learn how to swear in Romanian, you better stay away.
Am happy you are fixing something different today. Too much of laptops
The revenge of Capacitors removed by "say hello to my little friend!"
I bought a sub like this that 'went missing' with UPS driver. Now Im glad
With no filter cap, you had DC spike on the input of the regulator. Multimeter can't see it and give you the average DC voltage. But in reality, if you have use a oscilloscope on the input pin you had saw those DC spike. Love your video!
100% he should use a scope way more often, transients are what kills electronics.
I was telling him whole time during the video to switch to a O’scope… 👍
Very nice. This really looked like all my attempts to fix PSUs so far: replaced everything that was damaged, fixed the shorts, tested the components, and the PSU still exploded on me 🤣
Better fix laptops, phones like sorin does
am stat cu sufletu la gura tot video, incredibila rabdarea pe care o aveti domnu sorin
This was a 'Columbo' style repair. Lots of thought had to go into it. Working backwards to find faulty component in a very unusual power supply. All that just for a subwoofer. I think it was a bad design to start with. Don't take notice of the criticism about soldering techniques. Repair was a good and lasting. Keep the vids coming 👍
He should use Columbo voice with AI deep fake,it would be waaay funnier.
43:01 "Pressing the power button ... " ... and ... we have a picture! Can't believe we have a picture!
It's impossible to quantifed how much I learn with you. Thank You
🧑🎓
Sorin kept his promise, he actually changed a cap in the "next video".
Lesson learned: When power diodes short out in a linear power supply, check every component downstream. Thank you Sorin.
👍Plan B: solder the regulator on the other side but ... 😎how about plan C wiring a breadboard outside of the board :))
The cruse of capacitors 😂
No capacitor, no problem!
I had an active subwoofer which Had a shorted mosfet and diode, I (like you) changed ut gor a fast recovery diode "100 nano second" and powered up, the mostfet blew shortly after, I then fitted the correct diode "50 nano sec" and it was good, still going today.
Good job, love how you approach the problem and resolve it. Good stuff, keep up the great work.
The datasheet for the 78xx series recommend a 1uf cap on the in and out, I always use 100nf ceramic as close to the legs as possible and at least 220uf electrolytic. Very interesting video.
very interesting repair and mind confusion for a while till it was figured out. thanks for sharing. have a blessed day
I'm fighting with some Klipsch subwoofers myself as well, that I can't seem to fix. Great job Sorin!!
Nice tutorial, great investigating, deducting, faultfinding etc
Now that you ordered a bunch of 78xx and 79xx regulators, you should build yourself a quick differential power supply for testing purposes. Use incandescent light bulbs for current limiting. 12V5W automotive bulbs wlll pass enough current for those preamp boards and will light up brightly in case of a short.
When fault-finding, if you don't have an oscilloscope (or too lazy to set it up), it is very useful to have a small AC detection circuit paralleled on the multimeter's test leads.
very interesting and educational video, a bit different case than common ones. thanks Sorin for sharing knowledge.
Soren, I have to point out a couple of things the first is I assume your voltage meter is in the DC mode and in the 41 minute section where you are testing the input and output voltage you will notice that there is only a one volt difference this should’ve been an obvious indication to you because The 78 and 79 series will always have a minimum of a 2 V loss going through them and the fact that there was only a one volt difference should’ve been an indication that AC was present
It's push pull switch supply that why you have ground and two 4 diode for negative and positive voltage supply
For such a big brand, ie, CA, they use cheap ChengX caps. Use Japanese caps if you charge big $s.
I appreciate you showing your challenge. I learned something worthy today
Nice and persistent work!
Next time you need use an oscilloscope to test the input voltage on the regulator :).
(I have a chinese cell phone size one. That is very helpful to repair switching PSU-s).
My firt think was: you replaced a diodes to a too slow diodes. The second was the capacitor...
7 out of 10 people would not have figured out the solution after the death of the 3rd voltage regulator.
They would have given up first..
Multumesc Sorin. Stima!
Well done, i always learn ftom you. Thx for all ur hard work
HI Sonri ,this video was very educational seeing the techniques for recuperating the solder pads and study of a diferential lineal power supply
Fascinating to watch you work
Priceless information, thanks Sorin.
Greetings from Portugal 🇵🇹
Great!!! I learned something new. Thank you.
On the diode configuration: it's an output coil with a midle tap, ground in the middle, then 2 diodes on the other end of each coil, one goes to positive regulator and the other for the negative regulator.
I fix them quite often, but, I always use a filament bulb in series to not blow anything and questioning myself why you don't ;). In your case even 100W bulb would do the trick IMHO.
As per diodes, I always keep slower and quicker diodes in stock of up to 20A, M7 as SMD and not fast are always in stock. It's quite interesting that you don't keep in stock those components to be true :). Just recently came the last book of 0201 resistors from China, so I have 0201, 0402, 0603, 0805 and 1206 and resistors and capacitors in stock ;). The same comes with regular through hole resistors from 1/4W up to 1W and that including those small resistances as well bellow 1ohm.
IMHO, if you fix electronics, it's better to have them, than not ;). Yes, you don't use them a lot, but they are not dear and is handy to have them. Only good quality capacitors can be costly. These I agree that is not worth for everyone to stock. Better have cheaper ones only in stock if you don't need them often.
I thing you are missing the point of his video repairs ? repair the fault with almost 0 cost ( recycling components from other boards & try to be flexible with the values ) + recycled = original & better than Chinese fakes
@@EsportsTVs I think everyone is entitled to their own opinion 😉
@@EsportsTVs everyone is entitled to their own opinion ;). I think I am as well?
And, if you fix stuff, yes, you can use used components = correct. But... any method is good ;) used or new.
I prefer to keep my components within reach and don't look for old components. Especially that Sorin didn't even bother to check ESR on that cap ;).
If you learn from this video basics about electronics, you won't even know that it's important to understand what ESR is. I did not commented on that one on that time as I do believe that this YT channel is for bit more advanced users then beginners. But, I'd say it's still a valid point.
As you can see, you can interpret the video in your own way, and I can in my one ;). Is it something bad? No, so, let's do it our own way. I respect your way, and please respect my way ;).
interesting i have so many audio interfaces like this gifted to me bcus they died maybe this video help me to repair some
I have repaired my share of subwoofers over the years and for some strange reason
they always seem to fit underated components and fail to decouple regulators which
sooner or later leads to self oscillation or motor boating as we call it.
As Sorin discovered, they are not easy to fault find on, experience makes a big difference.
26:39 Sorin has a magic switch for changing the cable colors in the real time 😅
its rgb cable, nothing special
Thank you for this Video. That was very usefull and i learned a lot.
This is not the same channel it used to be... Too many capacitors installed lately... 😂😂😂
new learning...and i can't believe too!!!
Mr. Sorin this is same issue like laptop repairing, " capasitor " :) Thank you so much..
You Are a very practicle person. Awesome. Love your works Mr. Thank's for sharing these kind of things not like, NORTHBRIDGE FIX.
NBF is moving too fast to make more money. Sorin is better and is taking time to explain and also Sorin is very good at explaining! I appreciate that a lot.
I have trouble trusting components from anonymous online vendors. I use Digikey, Mouser, Newark, element14, etc... We know that they buy from the manufacturer.nBut thanks! Great learning experience. 👍
You so pro bro good luck sorin❤
14:33 you measured all 5 diodes in the same direction, but 3 of them are rotated.
But even in the conducting direction, it should not be read as a short.
cuz the 5th one shows no short
In diode test mode , it shouldn't show short in either direction. Even if was in parallel to another component , a diode has no reason to show a short.
Yes but if there was 0 ohm it does not matter the direction it is a clear short
Oh hell. I've bought my last semiconductor from Amazon. The last was an assortment of Si marked LM78XX regulators.
Look at the logos under a microscope. Fake Fake Fake.
Every single one was counterfeit. And in a test jig most would not handle the rated ~ 1.2 to 2.4 A max.
They would crap out sometimes at 0.75 A. And the maximum voltage input of the rated 35 VDC would cook them (LM7815).
It's not worth it in a repair facility. Same for a good deal of test leads. A new set almost killed me when I measured a "disconnected" 240 VAC mains that read 0 Volts on my Fluke. I got a nasty tingle. Switching to Ohms and shorting the leads showed an intermittent lead.
In my opinion I think you really could have made the diode replacement quite a bit neater so down the road a tech wouldn't see a hacked swap. We like to see components all in line and neat.
But. Very informative and educational videos That show bench repairs are not always a day at the beach.
MendItMark showed the guts of a fake 2N3055 (I think) versus a real one and the difference was remarkable. The silicon wafer on the fake and was tiny and in no way up to being a _power_ transistor. I wouldn't touch semiconductors purchased on Amazon myself.
I really love your video.
wow Great video Sorin
High speed diode only Sorin . switching power supply only use regular diode on the input . I use to repair hundreds of those powered speakers
Good job man tnx👍
Thank you Sorin🙏
Very good video repair! I was wondering if it would be possible to have your oscilloscope connected to the input and output of the regulator before replacing the capacitor so we can observe the negative currents. In this way we would all have a better visualization and control on why the regulator is getting hot.
Yeah, too bad he is not using the oscilloscope more.
''All diodes are fast these days'' 😂
In Repairing domains they all are same but designers think them differently.
Good job mate 👍
D8,D9,D10,D11 is setup as a bridge rectifier
bridge rectifier dont have parallel 2 diodes
@EsportsTVs i have worked on close to 500 circuit uses that setup as the bridge rectifier. Some use it to turn ac to dc positive/ negative and the rest use it to make positive/ center/ negative so you can have voltage and current below zero. I've used this layout to make +12/-12 500ma power supply
@@EsportsTVs The diodes weren't actually in parallel. They were each on an opposite end of a center tapped winding, and the center tap is ground. The continuity was not a direct connection, but through the winding.
Perfect, the low ESR Capacitors needed to clear up PWM frequencies that can kill semiconductor components.
You have an oscilloscope it's good to check the ac on dc power supplys(called ripple) with it. I repare a notebook using it, the charger had the correct voltage, but when pressing the power button it drops from 19 to 5Volts. In this case a 5 minutes test after replacing the first brand new regulator will cut the time.
I usually do a quick ESR/capacitance check first, most likely this would have shown the faulty cap. You still have the broken one? Would be interesting to see what it reads.
Hi Sorin, could you do a series explaining audio devices compared to electronic devices like laptops, power supplies, etc.? I find it very difficult to understand how audio devices work transforming volts and amps to audio. Can you please teach us this?
czcams.com/video/f3r65G6_EA4/video.html
@@electronicsrepairschool thanks my friend!
Proper nice repair!
Question you use low melt solder to remove but what temp solder are you using to replace components
I am midway watching this, but 18:30 looks to me to be setup as a fullwave bridge rectifier with D8 to D11, thus the cathode to cathode connection and the other pair anode to anode + connected to this dead pair. And the coil isn't connected with 2 parallel diode feeds, it is just a very low resistance and looks like a short to the multimeter beeper. So it is a coil with fullwave bridge rectifier to create your +15 and -15 power rail.
Very interesting repair video thanks Sorin, sometimes the capcitors win 🤣
Sorrin is a genius...😅
could have picked up the negative ripple, with your fancy new ocilloscope/tester
you need a Duoyi DY294 to check and test a new and salvaged regulaters ...most of them are sold fake....very nice video...
At time of comment I haven't watched whole video.
1.mostly those are cheap clone 7815, as soon as there is a load they are gone.
2. Maybe cheap clone 7815 done not support 20 volts on input.
or What is think.
3. The diodes u have put in there switching frequency is less then US1M and it is overloading the 7815 with fluctuation.
Solution 1. Use US1M and 7815
Solution 2. low frequency diode + 470uF 35v cap+ 0.1uF cap + cheap clone 7815. I am sure it will fix the problem
When you flip the switch at 37:40, your camera glitches for a second. Did that happen by chance or was it related to powering on this device your working on? Very interesting haha!
It happened multiple times and each time when turning on the device on the power supply
that repair must be a frankenstien junior!
he has done more freaking repair than that sir, and you should watch all his videos,
hes not perfect, but he got the EXACT POIN on it.
Proper calibrated improved diodes, keep it up teacher
Thanks Sorin🎉🎉😅
My theory, you probably shorted the IN OUT of the regulator, and then later with the soldering you probably removed the short. Anyway you had the opportunity to use the oscilloscope to check
Hello🤝 good job and I learned something new again, thank you, and as for these capacitors, I'm surprised that such a well-known brand as Cambridge Audio used such weak capacitors, I've already seen this brand, poor quality, best regards👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏👏👋👋👋👋👋👋
Any brand cap would be killed by applying AC to it.
Cheng can be used for most projects but avoid buying them from sellers that offer them extremely cheap, these are all rejects from factory (yes, even Chinese manufacturers have QC :)). And if you buying them in big assortment pack you can be sure all of them will be rejects.
Nice jobb as always :)
so first you put capacitor in a macbook - then in an audio amp - are you a reformed character Sorin?
He explained output capacitors must be replaced, many times. He knows what can be left out and what must be replaced, knowledge and experience
hi where did you get that soldering tip with the curved tip?
What about using a larger soldering tip?
That will prevent damaging the circuit by shorter heating time.
next time you can clean a bit the traces. also lifting the diodes with one pad still connected you can lift the other pad
Sorin always improving manufacturer's design with better options 😋
If it's a subwoofer amplifier, why the high frequencies heard on the speaker? Should have a low-pass filter, right? Was the amplifier auto oscillating?
Enjoy watching. "Decoupling capacitor", is a bit of a mouthfull😆
Condenser is betta, as DC is for current.👍😂
Wow nice👍👍👍
good job,... 600v or 800v, 1A, diode you can go strigh to an old LED bulbe.
I think something different had happened there, on 24:25 you can see cold joint on capacitor pin, that lead to burning regulator and that lead to shorted diodes then and maybe shorted diodes caused faulty capacitor!
0:10 Right there, I could easily tell what the problem was; the power switch was in the 0 (off) position!
Soren 😫 hold still when you solder, no rubbing
Sorin that 2 diods were in reverse direction compared with the other in the area. You can see on one side the diods there are 2 lines and compared with the other diods the position is oposide...
Nice! 😎
you have to test capacitors with ESR meter , in a faulty capacitor you will find higher ESR value
How can I understand electronics like Sorin? This is my question any time I watch your video.
So how ac current kill a capacitor?
We have capacitors on ac and it's working fine
You should read '303 Circuits' by Elektor, subject no 115 page 143.
So not having a working smoothing capacitor on the 15v rail output made the thing unstable. It's crazy!
when you anyway had to order regulators - then why not get som diodes as well?
this one of the issues with overpaying for electronics, it's so expensive that it justifies an expensive repair. whereas, the cost of the repair is not far from the cost of a new subwoofer class-d amp.
Would you say hot glue is better than silicone?