This FREE 3D calibration tool will change EVERYTHING...
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- čas přidán 1. 08. 2024
- 3D Resin Printing needs a better solution. TableFlip Foundry is proud to present: The Cones of Calibration.
Download the part from our website www.tableflipfoundry.com
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Special Thanks to our Testing Group.
Ty Mansfield: Designer, Engineer, Pre-Support Artist, Tester - www.tableflipfoundry.com
Carrie Day (crazmadsci): Lead Consultant, 3D Printing Educator, Pre-Support Artist, and Tester - www.crazmadsci.com
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![PERFECT Exposure times (calibration) - dial in your 3D printer resin [EASY METHOD]](/img/n.gif)
Nice! Thanks getting my very first 3d printer on Thursday. Got the Elegoo Saturn 2 8k. The support for this hobby is great and with folks like you I am confident I've learned enough my first prints will be a success! Thank you so much for sharing.
I don’t do minis but this has changed the way I calibrate my printer. I’ll definitely recommend this to people.
Thanks so much! Im glad it was helpful for you!
Great!
What you also should do is dial in clever.
Read the Resin spec which i.e. says "2-3s exposure time".
Start at the center (2.5s) and look at the cones.
Underexposed? try 3s.
Then overexposed? hit the center between extremes: 2.75s. Or 2.8.
Then just a few steps and you are there.
Thank you for taking the time to record this video and for sharing it! Thank you more for supplying the required files! I love the fact that you walked through every step and stated the most important features. I also love the adventure-style theme of the walkthrough! Excellent job!
Thank you so much! I hope you find it useful!
Testing this out over the next few days, first print shows I need to up my exposure time 😁
Thanks for this tool!
Love it. Helped me lot more than all other calibration files that i tried.
THANK YOU FOR THIS! I have struggled with all of the other calibration tests, and this one is so simple. You don't even have to clean the part to read it. I ran the test a few times with different resins and it matches closely with the times I found using other methods that were much more time consuming and tedious. I really appreciate that it's self cleaning. Unless the print failure is completely catastrophic, a failed test doesn't mean I have to clean the vat.
I am so glad you found this tool useful!
i agree
Thanks a lot for this useful Print and the good explanation. This example shows what a good community with open-minded people and a open-source Lifestyle can reach. ❤
Trying this test out for the first time today, thanks for taking the time to add to the community at large and wish me luck!
Please let me know how it goes for you!
I am very much looking forward to trying this test! It seems much easier to read than the others.
I hope you like it! Please feel free to join our discord in the description with your results!
Really awesome video. I can’t wait to test out the files. You were so creative with the way that you did this video. Just wonderful.
Thanks so much TJ! Let me know if you have any questions. You can also join our discord and show off the cones or anything else you might print.
discord.gg/7fjwXyJjgH
So this is what it feels to see the light! I struggled so much calibrating a batch of Siraya Tech with Tenacious until I ran this test and, once calibrated, now I have perfect prints. Thank you!
You're very welcome! V3 is in beta on our discord if you want to see the new hotness!
I needed this SO badly. New to printing, got the obligatory 'test print' cube to print once, and then maybe had 1 model out of 8 actually survive to be primed and painted. The rest are in a box that I have no idea what to do with. Maybe make terrain pieces with 'salvage' mechs and use them as part of a scenario. Thank you so much, and keep up the good work
You're quite welcome. Stick with it. You'll get it all figured out in no time.
😊😊😊😊😊😊😊£😊😊😊😊😊k😊😊😊😊
Actually, your calibration model has really simplified my calibration process. Cheers.
Thank you.. This is by far the best tool for dialing in printer I have come across
Thanks so much for saying so! I really put in a lot of though and effort with our test team and CrazMadSci to make this as effective as I know it can be.
This is amazing! I cant wait to try this. it works out crazy awesome, I just got my Creality Halot ONE today and was doing a little research before I started printing. Its FATE I found this video and more importantly a new miniatures maker.. Thanks Guys
Congratulations!! Make sure to join our discord. We can help you get the ball rolling and help you through the inevitable speed bumps.
Https://discord.gg/tableflipfoundry
I like the way you gamified the calibration process, hope this lead to more people investing time in good printing settings
Thanks so much! I just wanted this to be easier than it has been. Nothing is perfect, but I hope this gets people a lot closer.
This will help immensely with clear resins where reading the thin wafer-like tests are almost impossible. Just tested this out on a clear resin I tuned last week using old methods. overcuring!
Did you get yourself nice and dialed in?
Thank you so much for putting this much effort in. I will check out your other products. Greetings from Germany.
Hey! thank you so much!
Thank you guys
This is the best calibration test that I've tried for my resin printers. It's so much easier to read. I'm recommending this to everyone who needs to calibrate their printers. Nice work and thanks!
Thanks so much!!!
I absolutely love how you presented this calibration tool and that you made it a whole story/game. I love that you involved other creators that we can now support and get new wonderful files from. I found this at just the right time as I just got my Elegoo Saturn 2. Excited to try my new "adventure".
Thanks so much for saying that! If you need any help at all, please feel free to join our discord and we got you covered. Im so excited for your new journey!
Absolutely wonderful
I always hated those ambiguous calibration prints, where you invariably get to “yeah ok, good enough” - this is pretty much yes/no
Also I love the lore-style instructions - personally I like the style, but also the presentation is really professional and adds to the experience 👍
(I did see you comment on Vogmans video, and I’m excited for the v2 to come out)
I used it and it works great. Thanks.
Thank you so much!!!! My settings wern't off to much but your cones helped to dial my printer in perfectly!!!
My pleasure. I have a new calibration system releasing very soon. Keep an eye on the channel. Even better ;)
Wow big difference thank you!
Thank you !! the cones of calibration are sooo helpful.
Im so glad you like them!
This guy is so wholesome.
Great stuff!
You rock! RPG in a calibration test! Down loading tonight, subscribing now!
Hahaha! thanks! I don't put out tons of content but I hope the stuff I do put out is really helpful!
Hi! Rumor has it that version 2 is coming out :) ❤ when can we have a sneak peek
Thank y'all for putting this together.
You're quite welcome. Glad to be of service :)
@@TableFlipFoundry seriously, using this and being patient kept me from throwing my printer through my window.
Very cool test! Thank you very much! I just printed my perfect cones on the 3rd try.
WOOO!!!
I love this 🤩 useful and you made it entertaining 👏
Liked and sub’d. It was mentioned in r/resinprinting. I’m still waiting for my first resin printer to arrive (M3 max) and am trying to absorb every bit of knowledge I can before i get it. Even though I’m more of an FDM engineered part maker (I have zero artistic ability) I’m looking forward to some crazy intricate artistic prints from the community to adorn my man cave. Thank you for taking the time to do this, I look forward to watching more of your videos and being a part of this side of the 3d printer community.
I'm super excited for you! That's a big boy. You're going to have a lot of fun with resin once you get it all dialed in
New at this thank you so much!
I tried the flat Matrix one and tried so hard to see the differences. With the new Anycubic Photon Ultra, it's such a good detailed printer that anything from 1.6 - 2.4 looks really good (way better than the best samples on CZcams videos from mono printers - note: haven't seen any samples from 6-8k machines though). I was trying to tell the difference between them with magnifying glasses of different shapes and size, some with and without led lights, I had hobby magnifying glasses that you wear with a led light, I tried taking photos and zooming in... I asked 4 different people what they thought... Every single person gave me a different answer on which one they thought was the best.
So when I tried this, the first time I went with 2.0 and I immediately saw that the success cone side had a failure and thus I need to up my exposure time. Brilliant!!!
Seriously mate, if there was some type of resin artist awards, you'd get my nomination!
(insert slapping joke :P )
That is so good to hear. This is exactly the struggle I saught out to solve for people. It's definitely not perfect but for a lot of people it's been really helpful.
I already have ideas for improvements for a V2!
@@TableFlipFoundry I'll post my results here when I'm done!
@@dmaikibujin make sure to jump on the discord to share!
This is such awesomeness.
hi. thanks for the nice tip to readjust my resin parameter bro.
Thank you so much
Man, i was using 4.5 sec with xp2 validation test(had a lot problems) and now with cone calibration im using 9.5 sec....brutal difference
Thanks my friend!
That seems a bit extreme of a change. I'd love to take some time to help you out and make sure you're dialed in well. Are you printing on an RGB screen? These types screens tend to take longer. What type of printer are you on?
Hi Ty, I've been FDM 3d printing for some time now and recently got a resin printer the Anycubic Photo Mono 4k. The supplied test files came out well but i found creating my own prints a really annoying FAF! I used to paint miniatures many years ago and Ive played many a description based adventure game on early home computers (from the 80's) keep that bit to yourself though! As just about every resin printer video is about table top miniatures, i was struggling with supports for my small scale projects.
I caught the CZcams of the live stream you did for supports, which helped a lot for an FDM guy who is looking to use as few supports as possible normally for better quality!
I used your suggested setting support tip values and I've had almost perfect success on the few prints Ive tried, the support interface i find a bit janky in the free and its a bit annoying the cost of unlocking the thing that seems key to resin prints!
Next up for me is the cones, The instructions made me chuckle as its just like you used to get all those year ago on text based adventure games.
a question i have, my 1st prints even my failed efforts were a good representation of the slicer but i find now my prints complete but there is often a thin layer over at least half the build plate maybe 1 or 2 layers thick like a skin. Also there is a faint skin in places on the model as well as a few sort of snotty danglers from the model where its drained back? They wash off but i'd like to hear your thoughts.
I've even subscribed!
Sean
Hey man! No shame in the game from the 80s. I love that you call it a description based game. Sounds like your off to a good start printing wise.
That skin can be tricky. There could be a few causes. Is your printer near a window or direct sunlight? Or near any uv light source?
If so, then move the print away from the source.
If you're not, there is potentially a corrupted sliced file. Format your USB disk and reslice.
If that doesn't work, you may be looking at a screen that's on it's last legs. It shouldn't be dying this soon, so it's likely something else.
Cool, I will gone download this now niven found it! I watched VoGmans channel on the cones last night he was saying it's not great for calibration but when you have got your settings dialed in then to use it last for further refinement. I'm new to the 3D printing world I bought 2 Anycubic printers this month, I got the mono 4k with wash and cure first then just the other day I caught the end of the mono 2 promotion sale so picked that up for much cheapness with a wash and cure station so have a spare. It prints perfectly but the mono 4k can do with calibration and no harm running it through the mono 2 aswell! I just need help with how to use the settings in layman's terms lol.
Going to have to try this
I hope it works great for you! Please feel free to jump in our discord and share your results!
Thanks very much from a newbie like me. Will try it soon.
I'd love to hear back! Also we are doing a community beta test of V2 of the cones on our discord if you want the new hotness
@@TableFlipFoundry I already joined your discord. Currently waiting for feo fil because my first attempt was a real disaster.
Props on keeping the D&D theme in the documentation.
Hehehe thank you. I figured it could be more fun than just black and white text.
Interesting. I think I'd use the card type ones to get it ballpark and then try this to confirm the setting. Just because of print times.
I have a new resin to calibrate today so I'll try it.
Thats definitely a fair way to approach it!
The irony of the intro is that I searched for this video in order to decipher the results of printing the cones of calibration.
The Tome of Understanding explains all. :)
Did you find what you needed?
@@TableFlipFoundry I did the same, Tome of Understanding wasn't with the downloads at thingiverse
I am new to 3d printing world and this will definitely change my way to calibrate it. Thank you, a really helpful and comprehensive calibration tool. Just one simple question: where's the menu to exchange XP points acquired for skills, I cannot manage to find it. 😅
Nice test and especially since you have made it free for all. I think however that this is a test you have to do in conjunction with other exposure tests to fully dial in your exposure.
I used the cones at first with the stock exposure setting of 3 seconds in my printer (with some undocumented resin that didn't have any online exposure times available) and it looked fine. Only the succes cone did shift a bit (hindsight is 20/20: that should've been interpreted as a fail) and the failure cone did print a tiny bit so i chose an exposure time just 0.1 second shorter and then it failed massively. Tried the old setting and it also failed. After struggling with getting a succesful print of anything i went back to the drawing board and started printing the faster printing validation matrix at a ludicrous double stock exposure of 6 seconds and the validation matrix came out near-perfect. Tried 5 seconds and it was underexposed. Tried Seven and it was just a bit overexposed.
Tried 6.5 and it came out the best imo. Mind you, i did use a macro lens on my digital camera to check the infinity symbol on the matrix because you cant really tell a difference with your own eyes without extremely good eyesight. Currently running the Cones as a secondary exposure test because it definately is more easy to differentiate between succes and failure (when not messing up the interpretation of obviously failed prints).
thank you
Incredible work. Not sure on the physics behind the failure side but I'm not the smartest person. But I would rather overexpose than under expose I think. My cones came out with 3 cones on the failure side which I might just stay with for this resin.
puk is adorable
Thank you all!!
My pleasure. :)
Nice Work!
Thanks!!!
What a great calibration tool. It's the first time I was able to look at a calibration thing and tell if it had succeeded or failed without needing to ask someone's opinion.
It makes me so happy! That's really the whole reason we went through designing this!
Super easy to use, thanks!
Did you give it a shot!?
I'd love to hear your results. Feel free to come hang out on the discord server and give us an update!
@@TableFlipFoundry Yes, I was able to get the perfect result in 3 prints, I hope the calibration exposure will be correct :)
Thank you so much for this
You're quite welcome! Please let me know how it works, and if you're having more troubles, shoot us a message in the cones channel on the discord!
@@TableFlipFoundry Will do Thank you :)
I've been having serious issues with my new resin pri ter and many have turned my on to this.
Let's try it out:)
If you have any issues or questions jump in our discord and we will be happy to help!
Am i correct in assuming that calibration of exposure time is also dependent on layer height and that if i changed the layer height i would need to recalibrate?
Thanks so much! I wanted to make this fun and approachable.
Hey guys. So I printed this model. Started with 2.5 exposure time. One fail cone succeeded to connect. Changed it to 2.0. Success cones failed. Changed to 2.2. One success cone failed. Now before I print again. Do I only need to change the exposure time or I need to print something else?
Printer: Elegoo Mars 3
Resin: Anycubic Eco
Settings from other people uploaded in lychee slicer server. Please help! Thank you
This looks interesting, so I'll give it a try. Having huge problems dialing in the Mono X with the RERF test giving results that are, apparently, just wrong, and the XP2-Validation giving slightly better results, but ones that completely conflict with the RERF test. However, even though this can help with exposure, there are other factors, like lift and retract speed.
You got it. This only focuses on one aspect of the 3d printing process. You should jump in our discord. I can help you sort out what's going on with your printer. I have a mono x too.
@@TableFlipFoundry I did, actually, and got a bit more useful info, so thanks for that!
That is a useful tool!
I really hope you give it a try!
Just printed my 1st one 😎👌👍
Welcome to the family!
@@TableFlipFoundry good to be here 😎
Just printed this calibration test 3 times. Easy to use! I finally have the exposure for my resin dialed in! Could you tell us the dimensions so that we can see if our printers are dimensional accurate?
You can super easily find that info in your slicer. Just select the scale option and it will tell you the current dimensions!
The cones are 11x17.5x15.5 mm
But you dont have to measure the cones specifically
In your slicer you can drop a cube or a cylinder directly from their tools, scale it to the dimensions you want, print and measure.
I get no cones on the failure side, but I keep increasing exposure and not only I don't get all succesful cones but the ones that print don't fully connect.
Does this leave a mark on the bottom of my resin vat?
Hmm, download from website is failing for me every time I try..
How long does it usually take to print the cones of calibration? My Saturn 2 takes about 1 hour, ist this too long? What are your experiences
This is all based around later height and the movement settings. But that's typical yes
My result was, all top failure-cones failed, and all top success-cones printed BUT the first one on the left. isn't that a bit contradictory? Cheers
Hell yeah. A go, no go test
Yessir! I'm trying to make this as easy as possible for ya.
@@TableFlipFoundry barely trying it now. I tried the others but wound up finding out there were issues. Yours is simple. I do plumbing work and we used to use a simple go no go gauge to test crimps. It worked so easy and was reliable. Since then manufacturers have changed things a bit. Over complicating things. Sorry I’m
Blabbing haha, but yeah that’s why I appreciate the simplicity a lot
IS THIS TEST SUITABLE FOR TRANSLUCENT RESINS?
Well... I've printed it few times and ... Success cone has a microscopic gap same as fail cone... or both has connection.
Currently I am between 2.4s (both has gaps) and 2.5s (both has connections) (Exposure time for this resin is recommended as 3s - 15s, so I'm quite far below anyway)
I am guessing the issue here is that I'm using Anycubic TRANSLUCENT green resin which can pass uv light further then other non translucent resins or ... is it so precise?
Should I start messing with hundreds after a comma? 2.45s, 2.47s, 2.43s etc?
I am ew to #D printing and I jumped in with both feet on a resin printer, watched a thousand videos. I printed the cones and I have a mixed result. On the success side it printed all but the far left cone which was at 50%. This indicates under exposed. on the failure side the first two cones on the right started to print about 1/32 each which would indicate over exposed. The print cannot be both under and over exposed with this result which side take priority Success of Failure?
Where is PUCK for V3 is it only on your patron?
Really helpful this video as I have just about got a print its just the first one didnt quite meet in the middle on the success side I guess that means a little more on exposure needed?
You got it! Also have a look at my calibration class video as well. It's long but worth it
Liked and subscribed! :)
Welcome to the TableFlip Family!
Why are the shapes the way that they are? Is there a reason there are flats on the base of the cones? Is there other information we can gleam running this test beyond just exposure? (thinking about lift speed and such)
The smaller part at the base of the cone is designed to be an apparent success or fail. If the cone fails to print that area it's definitely failure. If it prints then it's a definite success.
This part's only purpose is to test exposure at the moment. But if you can use it to verify other things I'd love to know and we can expand testing with it
Just downloaded and read all info. Very well put together. I measured the test and you said it was 11 x 17.5 x 15.5.....I got 10.99 x 17.59 x 14.75. I'd say pretty much spot on. I did by first test and on the FAILURE side all 4 cones only printed the bottom cones. And the SUCCESS side all 4 cones printed and connected....with the far left with a .17 separation.....had to look close to see it. do not know if I broke it cleaning....LOL Looks like I am pretty dialed in with my SIRAYA Fast Navy Grey. This was 2.50, just for grins I am going to do a 2.45 and a 2.55.....lol....worth it. I do have a question: Would it have any advantage to do anti-alisiang? So far I am stoked and gonna follow and post findings. Thanks for all you do.
The test was not tested using any anti-alising and have not found if it makes an impact. Make sure to join the discord though and share those findings!
Does it matter which way it's facing on the build plate. My arrow on my slicer is on the short end, should I rotate my part to line up like yours in the video
No as long as it's centered you should be fine
I have my newly brought Elegoo Mars 3 printer and I have to ask, how many seconds does each cone on the failure side take to print out?
Unfortunately this doesn't work quite the way you would imagine. There are different resins that cute at different speeds. Different screen types. Different uv power output printer to printer.
So unfortunately it's impossible to tell you that number. But typically you're going to be making adjustments in the .1 to
.3 seconds range
What increments do you recommend for adjusting after a test shows over/under cure. I'm on a mono screen is that matters.
it definitely does matter that its a mono screen. Usually .1 increments work for me. Depending on how far off you are. If 3 of the success cones don't print you can assume something like .3 second adjustment but its really different for every printer and every resin. So its quite difficult to say for certain. You're own experience is going to answer this for you.
I need help I did it and I still need to form half of a cone as the image shows! use 3.7 exposure, how much more should the exposure increase in the next test? 4.0 would be ok or better 4.2?
Every printer is different. But .1 or .2 seconds is generally appropriate
Hmm, this test looks simple and clean but i wonder... If I pass this test, but other tests (for example 3DRS Chip or Validation Matrix) shows little overexposure, what to do in this case? Stick to setting from this test? Some tests also recommend adding 10-20% to your ideal exposure time. Is this overexposure affects minis quality?
My recommendation is to use the exposure from the Cones of Calibration, then rather than compare other exposure tests, just print some minis and evaluate your experience with the minis.
Good pre-supports will come off easily. Every detail of the model should be crisp and clean.
Thanks for this TFF team! I am currently working with a viscous-elastic resin, hence I need to increasse exposure times, is it okay to scale your model this down by half to reduce my print time?
Sorry but you cannot scale it. It will no longer work. But you can download V2 on the cones channel of our discord. It prints 35% faster
Hallo
Können Sie mir bitte sagen wo ich diesen Test Druck laden kann
Beste Grüße
If all cones printed perfect on the SUCCESS and FAILURE side what way do you adjust next print?
If you had all cones on both sides print you reduce your time. There should be no top cones on the failure side.
So if my success print is good but my failure print leaves one partially printed cone (the third from the left), what setting should I change and by how much?
You have to lower your exposure a hair. There is no way we can tell you how much though. every printer is different.
Looking at the file in the slicer I can't figure out "how" this cal works? Why does one side fail and the other work it appears symmetrical...
Look very closely at the sizes of all the connecting points.
Hi i printed your cones and on the success side the left one is just a half and on the failure side the two right are printed… what does this result means? Thanks for that print test!
this can be caused by wear or damage or abnomalities in your fep sheet.
Try to rotate the cones 90 degrees and run it again.
2 failure cones sounds like you need to drop exposure a bit though
Interesting! Will have to give this a shot! The failed bits, do they adhere to the part itself, or do they end up floating in the vat?
You can see the majority of it grabbed on the top of the failed part and haven't had issues with floating resin. It will appear as a pancaked cone.
Yep! Self cleaning! No worries.
@@TableFlipFoundry Ah sweet!
@@crazmadsci3806 wonderful!
I was about to ask this question! Thanks!
Great video, quite late for the party here. But if I am getting it right you say the only cones that really matter are the ones with the "+" and "-" symbols, if by any reason I get other cones within the failure upper side to print should I just ignore them as long as it is not the "-" cone? or are they an indication of a tiny reduction in exposure time?
Sometimes there can be some abnormal results with the cones. When that happens is easiest to just look at the most important ones and not dig too deep into it.
That said, v2 of the cones is available on our discord and it has better considerations for reliability and also prints 35% faster.
I recommend grabbing them
Great explanation, Going to give this a try, but I was wondering about the failiers that are supposed to happen, is the model designed to catch any bits that don't print or do we need to clean the vat out after every print?
You got it! It's self cleaning
me salieron los 2 lados perfectos, que debo hacer? o así quedó bien calibrada?
I got the 2 perfect sides, what should I do? or so it was well calibrated
Lower exposure until one side fails.
So I downloaded the cones from the site, sliced in lychee, but while my photon mono x 6k shows all the other pwnb files, it won’t show this one. Ideas?
Thats definitely not related to the cones in any way. But its likely you may have sliced the wrong format. thats really hard to troubleshoot over youtube comments, hop in our discord and drop me a message. I'll help you out.
I'm a little confused about the amount of succes cones you need. So I understand if the most left under the + sign is printed, then you're good. But what about the other 3 succes cones? Are they for finetuning dialing in more perfect? I noticed that in order to let all 4 cones print I had to increase exposure a whole lot compared to just 1 cone.
at 2:15 he explains which cones we are looking for. Basically Success you want the top left cone to print, The failure side you want the top right cone to fail. All other cones are not relevant for this test 4:03
I was pondering the same
Tried to look for the calibration part but can't find it on the site could you help thankyou
for now you need to log in on a PC to see it. Mobile wont show it for some reason.
Does this calibration tool depend upon the layer height? I have a Saturn 2 and want to start printing at 30 um instead of the normal 50 um layer height (to match the 28 um XY resolution the Saturn 2 is capable of). Will the Cones of Calibration work if I'm using a narrower layer height than normal?
The layer height does not affect this tools ability to work at all. You're good to go.
I have a saturn 3 and the success side is perfect but when i look at the failure side it stills print. I tried 3.5, 3.2 and 2.9 and it keeps doing the same thing. I tried 2.5 and it fails. Any help!?
Hop on our discord and we will get you all sorted out.
Question. On my failed side I got a few peaks but don’t go all the way down to connect to the bottom cone. Look like small stalactites. Is that considered success? Or need complete flat?
They dont have to be COMPLETELY flat. Close is close enough in this case. You could back off the exposure until the success side starts to fail then go back up a hair also if you wanted to really keep narrowing it down.
You can also print Puck and see if you're happy with the result!
I am pretty new to printing and just bought a Phrozen mighty 4k. I am trying to dial in the Aqua grey resin and finding different settings from one place to another. I would have thought that a printer using a certain resin would be very cut and dry as far as the recommended settings for a good print but I guess that is not the case.
You're absolutely correct. A lot of new hobbyists enter the 3D printing space expecting it to be plug and play, and sadly, its just not there yet.
There is a lot to understand about the properties of resin and 3d printing, and pre-supports. It's hard to explain because it can be such a tedious thing to go over. I'll try to make a video soon explaining more details about resins and how they affect your printing experience.
In the mean time, you can come visit our discord community. If you have any questions getting things going, I'll personally be around but we have a ton of super helpful members.
discord.gg/tableflipfoundry
@@TableFlipFoundry Thank you so much! I appreciate people like yourself who go out of their way to help other people learn and I will definitely be subscribing to learn more! Thanks!
Do I need to clean the vat out if it succeeds the way you want it too?
Nope. It's self cleaning