Cutting the Rust out of 1970 R/T Challenger.....There is nothing left episode 2
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- čas přidán 15. 02. 2024
- In this video I continue with the 1970 Challenger R/T in our shop by cutting out all the rusted panels and anything else wrong with this Dodge. I go over how I go about cutting into these cars and how I choose what to keep and why. When I get done cutting out the rust there really isn't too much left of the project. Lastly I conclude the video with a quick recap and walk around, describing the importance of the frame JIG in a build like this and what the future plans for the car entail. Follow along with this build for more updates.
Follow future videos of this car after we are done with it here...
/ mike whelan
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#dodge #rustmobile #mopar #musclecar #amd #challenger #restoration #classiccars
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The best builder i seen most builders dont fully do it like you and they got the nerve to try to sell the car like its brand new for 30k to 70k and they dont even restor half of it its still hidden rust and rot inside the car like fr who wanna pay all that money for something they finna have to tare down and rebuild
Thank you and yes I agree too many cars out there rusted on the inside with a fresh coat of paint on the outside asking top dollar.
Your approach to provide a quality product is commendable Rick, very well presented and explained thoroughly. Thank you for sharing.
Thank you very much, I am really glad it presents well.
Looking forward to the Firebird update when you have enough content to share. As always, your videos and commentary do not disappoint. Thank You.
Thank you. If i get some spare time this weekend I think i am going to jump back on the firebird a bit.
hi been watching your eps and you do great work and know what you are doing is good
Thank you!
I started doing rebuilds on these era muscle cars in 1979, I was 19, I would buy wrecked cars from guys for a few hundred dollars, there was not a lot of aftermarket parts available.
And to do these properly I had to be disciplined !
Taking parts from cars in the salvage yard and getting them cleaned up and ready to reinstall.
I've saved a bunch of highly sought after cars over the years.
And it's been very rewarding.
This guy is an outstanding rebuilder !
Thank you very much and hats off to you and the guys that replaced the metal back in the day without the parts available this job would be impossible.
This is how I should have tackled my Challenger. Great job!
Thank you
Hi Rick, I have a 1972 Challenger that I'm soon going to be replacing the firewall, cowl, floor pan, and trunk pan on and really appreciate your series of instructional challenger restorations. Prior to replacing a section of my car I always watch the appropriate video of yours to make sure I dont miss anything. I'm waiting to receive the firewall / cowl panels from AMD and was looking up this morning to see one of your videos, but it appears that some of the episodes have been removed. Is that the case, I really need to reference them as my memory is not that great and dont want to mess this up.
Thank you so much for your dedication to your channel.
-Allan
Allan, This car is still not built yet so the videos on installing those parts are not done yet, however if you search for 1973 Challenger I have a whole build series on that car that should cover everything you are looking to install. The next video on this car should be out soon.
Found it.. Thank you so much Rick. Your information is great.
Great work love your video's. No vin numbers on E body trunk gutters. Thats a B body thing.
Thank you for correcting me that saved a lot of extra work sandblasting that piece. You are correct I believe I was confusing it with the b-body
Rick went wild with that cutter!
Carthage Classic chop shop!
Just kidding. You do great work.
Haha yea sometimes it feels that way, its sad to see them cut up this bad but so much better in the rebuild process!
Man...after seeing some of the E-bodies you've started with, and observing what you've been able to do with them, makes me feel a whole lot better about my own car. But...as you keep pointing out, there's no telling what you're actually starting off with, until you start pulling a car apart. Looking forward to watching the progress on this build. Cool car with a cool history.
Thanks a lot working on the next video now, if your happy with your car leave it be and enjoy it for sure.
Absolutely crazy what you do with them cars and I don't mean in a bad way crazy amount of work but I'm looking forward to the outcome and I know it'll look great I just don't think I wanna pay the bill I don't think the the banking funds will cover it thank you for the time you put into doing this video I know it was a lot of time thank you
Thanks a lot I really appreciate the feedback and following along!
You cut down this car as much as you did your POV Firebird. Thank you for showing us how much disassembly is really necessary to start a rebuild project.
You're welcome and yes this one gave the firebird a run for its money with rust.
Cool! that’s nice work Rick
Thanks a lot!
Hey Rick! If the owner doesn’t want that LH radiator support section you cut off, I could use it for a small patch. Let me know! Great work! 👍🏻
Send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and I will talk with him and I will let you know.
Wow, that is stripping it down to bare bones. I'm putting quarters on my 71 now and they drop down about a half an inch with a straight edge across the trunck. I sliced the driver side on the back edge to get it up to that. Pictures look like it should be straight, but some look like they drop down, what's correct. Thank you for the videos. I really look forward to them. I guess I need to remove the roof skin too to clean it up under it.
It appears most of the aftermarket quarters like to slope down, I personally think straighter is the way to go with an unnoticable slope down if there is one.
Really enjoying the content! I’m a Mopar guy so glad you’re focusing on a Challenger. Keep up the awesome work!
Thanks a lot, Most of the stuff will be Mopar in general but I do love all muscle cars so bear with me when we put something else on as we will have another Mopar down the road.
Much respect for giving advice on what to do cause i dont have the money to pay for a rebuild so i gotta do it myself imma buy a project car 68 firebird convertible when i save up some money it may be next year when i get it or this year if i win at the casino but i definitely would pay you for a rebuild if i do win enough so im gne see
Thanks a lot, a 68 firebird is a cool build good luck on your search.
This is what I want to see, good gob mate.
Thanks for checking it out!
Damn.. that is intensive. Very impressive!
Thank you
Hey Rick this looks like my last Cuda I cut apart butt on mine I had to take the upper cowl off because of rusted out air intake vents which is one of the worst parts on these type of cars and unfortunately you don't know they're rusted bad until water starts leaking in on your feet. I really like your workmanship cut all the rust away and start over new leaving no rust behind.
Thank you very much and you are 100% correct I see most of them rusted under the cowl and no way of knowing like you said until the dash comes out or water comes through.
A lot of very hard work to do ....great job ...good content and looking forward to seeing more and thanks
Thank you for following along and you're welcome!
Love the videos, thank you!
You're welcome!
Pay attention all you DIY'ers. Class is in session.
Thanks for the comment ...lol
Another good video. Keep them coming.
Thanks and will do.
GREAT VIDEO!
Thank you!
Great tutorial.
Thank you!
Great content and insight Rick! You have great attention to detail....and a customer that obviously has a great financial commitment.
Thank you very much. Yes unfortunately this hobby and passion for cars is expensive, this is why I also do not take nice trips because I also have hobby cars
Me too. Just painted a 48 pickup scheduled for auction for a friend and onto a 85 k20 build
I have 3 square body 4x4’s, two 72 Cheyenne Supers and a A12 Super Bee. I build the square bodies and sell em as fast as I get em done.
Me too. Just painted a 48 pickup scheduled for auction for a friend and onto a 85 k20 build
I have 3 square body 4x4’s, two 72 Cheyenne Supers and a A12 Super Bee. I build the square bodies and sell em as fast as I get em done.
Wow! You are like a surgeon with a cutting wheel😂!You must sleep well after a day like that. Nice work!
@@JohnBarr-ys9zlThats a busy line up you have ahead of you....good luck!
a lot of work a lot of parts WOW
Yes this one has used almost 1 of everything they make for this model.
you are building a brand new car which is amazing but my question to you is how can you guarantee yourself that the aftermarket parts you will be using will actually fit cause ive never had an aftermarket part fit properly and had to play with it, lately ive had aftermarket panels out by almost half and inch, thank you and awesome work
Thanks a lot, I actually never had one off 1/2 of an inch but mostly stick to the dynacorn and AMD brand panels. There are a lot that are slightly off, but with the frame JIG that makes sure the frame and floor parts are in square and even. From there I use rachets, pry bars, and frame benders to push and pry stuff to get it in its proper place, sometimes we have to put a slice in stuff here and there or weld a slight gap to fix them. The end result has been brand new cars that are usually nicer then the factory sealed up rust free which is really hard to say about most cars that are 50 plus years old.
Can you give a verbal step by step of what order the new panels go on the car?
I am actually going to try and video the step by step process with the voice over in time lapse so yes hopefully that is the idea.
@carthageclassiccars you're the man. I'd love to attempt to bring cars that are really far gone but I don't know the order of operations.
Do you have any videos of body panels,floor pan r&r on full frame cars I.E. 72 monte ,chevelles or 64 pontiac tempest,gto,etc.? When working on a full frame car,do you remove body from frame and secure to jig or do you use the full frame as your jig ?
I don't have any videos on them, but have worked on full frame cars both ways. I usually try and take the body's off the frame and make my mounting points where you would bolt up to the frame,
you made a key statement, " these cars were not made to last decades". And here the vintage car world worships them. Yeah it can be rewarding but when you tally up the cost and time to bring them back to life they are going to cost more than they will be worth. As the pool of old cars continues to dry up it gets pricier. There was the good old days not long ago when you could find some decent project cars that were sensible starting points, not so any more, you buy a rust bucket and pour money into it literally reconstructing the entire car. Gotta really want that car to dive in that deep.
That statement is 100% accurate and I agree with you on every aspect. Usually when I talk to someone personally and they drop off their car I tell them they need to realize they will have more into the car then its worth when its built the right way. If they didn't I would just build my own cars and flip them for a profit and not deal with customers, but I would have to hide stuff and cut corners to make it work. Thats the key when the cars are cheaper then this one you know the corners were probably cut at some point and like this one had the quality of work we cut off it. I get it if you can afford it and want a car from your past or just feel that into a certain car go for it if you can get many years of enjoyment out of it. The good thing about doing it right is you only need to do it once vs spending thousands every year to fix stuff that is driving you crazy.
Great video. I have a 71 barracuda that needs a total restoration. How far out are you Rick?
Thanks, please send me an email to carthageclassiccars@gmail.com and we can discuss
Hey Rick
Was wondering if you ever use the stiffening kit to tie the front and rear frames together?
Seem like a good way to add some much need structure to the unibody cars.
Answered my own question when watching one of your other videos where you mentioned one of the stiffener kits.
Yes I am a really big fan of the USCAR tool kit for these cars. This one will not get it because the owner is going factory replica.
I have them to add to my A Body Dart Sport.
Hey buddy getting caught up on these last three videos. I haven’t touched my 70 challenger project in two years, but I have two questions for you if you can help me out (don’t think it was referred to in the video) I have similar if not worse damage under the roof skin, I’m custom making patches in there a little at a time because I believe no one makes that part (both the sail going down the corner, and the frame that runs longitudinally above the door). Since so much of that is gone, I’m not sure exactly where the brake in the metal should be, meaning the bend that has the clip holes vs the part that’s under the roof skin. And second question, since I replaced the cowl/firewall and the A pillar, how is that welded/joined together? No matter how you stack them, it doesn’t look like factory, there’s a small gap between each panel. I’m hoping you can visualize what I’m trying to describe, I know it doesn’t make much sense typed out.
Excellent videos as usual man, the best step by step of this type on CZcams!
Thanks for watching....with the break in the meat for the upper support not sure if you saw the video on the 73 Challenger with Ospho i did rebuilding the roof structure. I mean your probably better buying some of the cuda parts and trying to modifying them. Do your best to connect the dots and use your inserts for the weather-strip and the roof drip rails as a guild, thats the best advice on that I would recommend unless you get the donor pieces. Dynacorn does make a whole entire side door structure for these cars that has what you need but they are pricey. As far as the cowl firewall and A pillar I am usually in there with ratchet straps and the monkey on the stick pulling/ prying and pushing to get them back to factory. Are you on a JIG? That will help when pulling and pushing off of to get them lined up. It can be a job for sure. Good luck
Since you remove the trunk brackets, do you fit the quarters and rear deck to fit first and then fit the trunk lid and bracket heights to match the way the quarter panels and rear deck matches up?
I have a problem with the trunk lid front corners being too high next to the quarter panels. The only way I can match them up is to jack up the drop rails of the quarters to raise them up level with the lid. The trunk lid and quarters are new AMD. Setting the rear deck lid on the original pads doesn’t seem to allow the quarter panels and deck lid to match properly.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I use your channel as my go to reference. Thanks
Everything is screwed in place before welding but I will usually put on the hinge brackets first then go back once the quarter are on and adjust the brackets to make it align.
I watched your 71 cuda video and saw how you started with the brackets and drip rails screwed together.
The more I watch it seems you have to make adjustments and not necessarily use the same point positions as the original because the reproduction sheet metal doesn’t always match up the same way.
I could push the quarters up and weld but it would seem the drip rails don’t have support at the corners by the rear deck.
Would you say that matching things up with a relaxed fit is the best situation? These AMD quarters need to be adjusted for sure.
Amazing work can u please do a breakdown on price at the end of the job ?
Unfortunately I do not talk cost out there in the public as times and labor rates always change and I don't want to set the price for other shops either. If you had this car or a call like this one and interested feel free to pm me and we can talk more specific.
@@carthageclassiccars I understand completely love the channel keep up the great work
when cutting this much of the body. Should it be braced internally. Or is the jig enough
never mind. you explained it in the end
Thanks for the comment and appreciate you watching through to see the answer. I have built quite a few of cars similar and in this bad of condition and it appears the frame table has been mostly all i need minus maybe 1 bar holding the lower window openings in place ect.
it doesn't make sense to put 15000 paint job on a rusty foundation this shows how much you can't see
100% yes, I don't think a lot understand that. It doesn't how nice the paint and bodywork are if there is rust under it the paint will not last.
Boy oh boy what a hack job by a wannabee restorer good thing it's in your hands now.👍
Its bad to say this is not even the worse "hacked up" car I looked at this week.
That car was no longer “original” long, long, long before it came to your shop. What you did was the only choice.
Thanks I felt the same way when it showed up.