Front Suspension Re-Assembly | Triumph Spitfire Restoration Project - Part 75
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2023
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Come hang out with me while I re-assemble the front suspension on my 1970 Triumph Spitfire Restoration project.
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Questions? Comments? Business inquiries? Email me at ► projectcargarage@icloud.com
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#automotive #restoration #cars - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Excellent video!
I am going to watch it over and over before I take care of my spitfire front suspension. Thank you!
Thanks!! Best of luck on the rebuild. Ask questions if you have any!
@@StevesProjectCarGarage
Will do. Thank you for sharing and for being so kind!
@yossiarias6791 my pleasure!
I will be tackling this in January/February... perfect timing! Thanks!
Sure thing! It isnt a bad job by any means. Just one that takes some attention to detail.
I agree, RimmerBros drive me mad
I’ve used them for a lot! This is the first time I’ve have an issue. :-(
Steve, thanks so much for this.
Sure thing!
I believe the bolt direction is factory with the head next to the frame. It has been speculated that it is a safety feature so if the nut comes off the bolt won’t fall out. My car has the bolts that way
That is what I have heard now a few times. Seems to make sense to me.
There is a set of sockets that are designed to hold the top of the shock and keep it from spinning. There's one for the thicker shock stud and one for the thinner. Rimmers is a British company. A lot of their parts are aimed at British versions of the car. The US got a detuned suspension compared to the home version. Their kits are often set up for the home market. Spitbits and The Roadster Factory know what the US market needs and orders their parts appropriately.
Sadly these are pretty cheap shocks. I’m regretting buying them right now, but as time goes I’ll probably upgrade them.
On the upper arm ball joint, try using the spring washers on the bolt head and the nyloc nuts without a washer. You shouldn't need a spring or lock washer and nyloc nut together. Good vids.
Thanks!! Ill have to compare to the diagrams again. Sadly I have to revisit part of the upper suspension for a 3rd…
I see your hand is healing well. I installed my bushings with all-thread and heavy washers (+ a couple sockets). They went in pretty easy with some silicone lube.
About to do this same process myself on my 75 so I’m happy to see you doing it!
Fantastic! It is a fiddly job, but certainly well worth doing.
Nice Work, as always. You are making a huge amount of progress!
Thank you!!
Nice to see the forward progress! I'll have a great reference when I get to mine! That hand is still looking a bit nasty. *barf*
Thanks! It’s all better now thankfully.
The bushings for the Anti roll bar are for the uprated 7/8" bar along with the u bolts...ask me how I know...
I had a feeling that was the case. I wish that they kit specified that, or gave you the option. It just said “All Spitfires”.
Good vid, thanks. Rotate the upright back & forth, look at the trunnion it's threaded into and if its moving around, that means the upright's threaded end is bent, when it should be staying perfectly straight. Easy fix now that you've gotta press to straighten it.
Also, DO NOT tighten up those bushings with the suspension unloaded, as at normal height/loaded they will be twisted & it shortens their life Good Luck!
Quentin Hazelton stuff was poor in the 70's!
Thanks for all the advice! I will be sure to loosen it all and retorque when under load.
Runners Bros.does supply the proper bushings for the sway bar, but you have to request either the “larger diameter or the smaller diameter” and that Has to be put in so put the proper part number in the search bar, and it’ll come up.
I like you experience the same problems with My (GT6) Parts Left Over From the same situation, no washers were included in my assembly hardware, so I switched most of my hardware from grade 5 to either grade 8 or stainless where it wasn’t gonna receive as much vibration such as those bushings. I went at quite a bit expense to do it, because,it turned out, I virtually replaced or substituted for a higher grade of bolt, sticking with the same thread, TPI, as well as size millimeter, and so forth.
After I did the sway bar, I went to the steering rack and pinion be advised they have a newer operated style. I suggest you order it now if you haven’t already because it does take a while to get stuff unless you wanna pay for extra shipping cost. That up rated steering rack blocks are the cats meow I mean they are fabulous.! It’ll save you a ton of fidgeting around with the other rubber bushing type stuff and meeting everything and holding the other to the upper and then try to get nuts on and tighten them down I mean wow, a real time and frustration cutter!
You’re doing a fine job just take your time when you’re going to the edge in subsequent assembly take pains to look at the part numbers as to what’s in your book, your manual, and the parts that you had to order,make sure those part numbers are the same if they’re different you’ve got to go back to Rimmers and put it in the search bar the proper number, if at all possible try and return it but if you can’t return it, good source to get rid of it is on eBay .
Cheers
Rob
Good info and thank you for taking the time to help.
So I ended up getting the proper sway bar bushings and hardware from SpitBits. And I also got them all assembled. You will see this in the next video.
As have I have been going through my hardware I am reusing some bolts but replacing all the nuts, and when I do I opt for the grade 8 hardware. I chase the threads on the bolts if they are in good order, I don’t see any harm in reusing them, though if there is, let me know.
I have only ordered new boots for the steering rack. I was just going to clean it up and reinstall, but I will look at those uprated blocks that sounds like a good upgrade.
Cheers!
Spit Bits tends to be a little bit on the pricey side but unfortunately there are many places like mice motors don’t even carry the stuff that you need or they’ll duplicate what Rimmers does.
If you want or need a part and it’s in this country, Spit Bits is probably the most reliable part source ! Nigel is the owner of the company and he’s really good about responding to phone questions as well.
Short side of that the roll the dice is definitely back to the standby of Rimmers brothers, but they’re you’ve got time in shipping. The cost is a bit higher but they’re fairly good about what they send. You just have to go to their search bar and be specific about what you’re ordering because they’ll just send anything if they can fill an order whether it’s correct or not correct 😳
You’re doing a fine job, so take it slow and enjoy what you’re doing even enjoy the frustration or try to because it’s all a part of the experience 🙏👏👏
I think Kyle mentioned it elsewhere, but those sway bar bushings are definitely the wrong ones. There should be just enough play to slip them on, with effort. They shouldn't easily slide around.
Also, I've heard it said those upper A-arm bolts are backwards for safety reasons-to prevent the bolt from backing out fully should the nuts come loose...(or something to that effect).
Anyway, looking good!
Thanks Hazen! I’m going to have to order mor me parts yet again…. It’s ok though. I should have done more research.
Makes sense about those bolts!
Good job, Steve. Frustrating, of course. I got a rear main seal for my TR4 that didn't have the spring in the seal. I didn't figure that out until I was ready to install it. BPNW made good on it, and I guess I should have made sure the part was complete, but come on...
Dang Chris. That is pretty crazy. I suspect these kits are made by folks who don’t know about the cars so the small things get over looked. My problem is that shipping isn’t cheap. I bet if you ordered that spring by itself it would have been $15 shipping.
The bushings are probably got a 1500 which has a thicker anti roll bar
That’s what I’m thinking too.
In short, it's best to avoid kits from Rimmers and order individual parts looking for US applications.
Yeah the kits from Rimmers has a lot to be desired.
Those parts that are too big are TR6 parts, yet another reason why I dropped reamers.
So turns out they were the right size for a Spitfire, just not mine haha. They are for MKIV and 1500s.
Nice job! Been following your progress. Quick question could tell me what the frame alone weighs? Thanks.
Thanks Dennis!
If I had to guess at the frame weight it is probably around 100 - 125 lbs. Maybe? I was able to lift it by myself but it was easy. I’m also not that muscular lol.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Sure thing! Happy to help however possible.
Who are the big domestic supplies you spoke of?
Moss mainly. I can make two orders one from Moss and one from Rimmers and I always get the Rimmers packages faster and the shipping is about the same.
Moss is overseas still, and quite a bit more than rimmers. The shipping kills me on both!
Don't feel bad for putting suppliers on blast. Without it stuff like this go unfixed. I have gotten a few things from Rimmers, and fortunately everything was okay. But as someone who is about to start their restoration, knowing who is and who isn't reliable when sourcing parts makes others lives a little less worrisome.
I’m going to give them a call and air my concern with it. I just feel like they need to either make it a complete kit, or make the description better.
Fingers crossed they will do something about it.
I’ve had good luck with them in the past. They have become my preferred supplier and this is the first issue I’ve had with them.
How easy is replacing the front studs with rover studs?
Not sure yet. LOL. I’ll tell you soon. I have that 20T press so I’ve got to imagine it won’t be that tough. Without a press though that might be a different story. The Rover studs are the same width, just longer.
Also Rimmers are ok but james Paddock uk is very good
I’m going to have to check them out for my next order. I’ve been told that a few times.
WHERE CAN I GET THE FRONT SPRINGS.... RIMMERS IN UK TELLS ME THEY CANT BE GOTTEN ????
I know that Spitbits has them.
I don't buy from reamers, I buy from Canley Classics.
I priced out my parts for the transmission from Canley and almost went with them but they had maybe 60% of what I needed in stock. With the shipping cost and time involved it didn’t make sense so I went with Spitbits instead.
RimmerBros are rubbish. Back in the 80's and 90's they were good but currently they are shamefully poor. It took them 3 attempts to deliver me a good sump gasket. The first one was folded up and put in a box. Do yourself a massive favour and find a different supplier and save your energy for working on your car .
Kind regards Paul from 48 Spokes 🇬🇧
The gasket I got for my differential was folded…. Sigh.
ya that really sux to have missing stuff. it's ok to have parts missing. but let the customer know whats missing.
Exactly.