Crimson Peak's Costumes, and How Tuberculosis Shaped Victorian Fashion
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- čas přidán 27. 06. 2024
- Won't somebody please write a poem about how sexy it is that I am dying of a disease?? Come with me on a journey through the costume design in Crimson Peak, and how an epidemic shaped the fashion of the Victorian Era.
Time Stamps:
0:00 Intro
1:49 Medicine, death, and macabre fashion
7:59 A recap of Crimson Peak
9:54 A look at the costumes
17:06 Outro and Credits
SOURCES
Julianne Escobedo Shepherd, “Designer Kate Hawley Talks The Menacing Beauty of Crimson Peak's Victorian Costumes,” themuse.jezebel.com/designer-...
“Crimson Peak: Part One” FIDM Blog, blog.fidmmuseum.org/museum/201...
“Mourning Dress,” The MET Museum, www.metmuseum.org/art/collect...,
Singh, Simon; Ernst, Edzard Trick Or Treatment: The Undeniable Facts about Alternative Medicine.
Dr lindsay Fitzharris, "The Butchering Art"
Chris Woodyard, “The Victorian Book of the Dead”
IMAGES and VIDEO
House of Ghosts, 1908
Crimson Peak, 2015
Tate Museum
DevilsNight
AntiqueDress.com
Lady Lilith by Dante Gabriel Rossetti
FIDM Museum Collection
Kate Hawley
The Bridesmaid by John Everett Millais
Vanity by Frank Cadogan Cowper
Catch me on Twitter: / kazrowe
Fun fact to add to your point; lead poisoning was also incredibly common during the Victorian era, and also has similar "sexy" symptoms (paleness, weight loss, fatigue, fading slowly until death finally grips your frail body like a wilting rose, etc). There were just... So, so many sexy ways to die in the Victorian era. Too many.
Toxic dress dyes.
Me, dying in my bed of tuberculosis and many different types of poison: ok but do i look sexy or nah ??
@@MikaelaCher - sadly not much difference now. Look at the adverts in TV and magazines for cancer clinics. The women always look pretty and put together. So women, be aware, even if you're seriously ill, you need to look good.
times when everything was poetic
i forgot which it was but i heard one queen was so poisoned by lead over the years that her face was nearly falling off
I love this movie. I HATE how it was advertised, and I'm glad Guillermo stood by it and basically said the same thing. One of the few times someone in Hollywood said how they actually feel. I think it's so underrated because the people going to see it weren't the target audience. They went in expecting a horror film and were treated to a symbolic dark romance instead. Knowing his work, I knew the trailers were likely a garbage representation of the film, but not everyone is familiar with his work. It definitely deserves more than it got.
I was told it was a horror as well, and only ever seeing Pacific Rim from Del Toro, didn’t really know what to expect. Then, when I got into the theatre and saw it unfold, the literature nerd within my heart stood up and sang. I saw it with a goth friend of mine who got too scared ironically enough. But since I went in expecting, like? Gross ghosts and jump scares? I was enthralled. It truly is a love letter to the macabre tropes and conventions, done with such attention to detail. But isn’t that the thing? So many good films get hurt by marketing teams who don’t know what they’re selling. (Jennifer’s Body being marketed to hormonal teen boys rather than young women for instance.)
@@ArtemisMoon12 100% I love Jennifer's Body, and Diablo Cody was actually another creator who actually spoke out against Hollywood. She said exactly what you did. The movie was horror, but it had a much deeper meaning and was targeted (from her creation, not the stupid trailers) at young girls. It's still a good movie today. Arguably, even better, given the current social state of things.
They always do that to his work, in my opinion. I enjoy Guillermo del Toro's movies in general, but the best ones are so incompatible with standard movie genre classification that there's no way to market them using the same old canned formulas. Case in point, you can't say Crimson Peak is a horror movie (even though that's how they promoted it... loved the way Guillermo went into every interview like "it's not a horror movie", totally deadpan), but neither is it a romance, or anything like that, I guess the closest I can get to actually describing it is, I guess, a coming of age story, but even that falls short of the mark. I don't know, I just turn into that annoying friend and nag everyone I know into watching it... no one has complained afterwards, until now.
I mean the plot is a gothic horror story, the movie just isn't what is commonly considered a horror movie.
@@Nedow I consider Guillermo del Toro's movies to be (dark) fairytales. As a person who is fascinated with fairytales and all the symbolic power of old tropes I find so much hope, love for beauty and details in them.
Guess victorians were really into ✨consumptioncore✨
This deserves more attention lol
Lmaooo 😂😂😂
Rare aesthetic check
LOL!!!!! Consumption Con.....just like Comic Con but not as fun.
Someone PLEASE make this a tiktok!
It’s so weird to be reminded Crimson Peak is an Edwardian period piece when its whole vibe is so thoroughly Victorian
It's set around the 1900s. You can see this in the main characters fasion, especially at work, so nearing the Edwardian era. However, the clothes at Crimson Peak are much older, because they didn't have the financial means for a while again to buy the most recent fashion. Their fashion is said to be around 20 years old, so around 1880. Early 1900s did have those big sleeves, they made them even bigger later on to emphasise the frailty of the main character.
Apart from Lucille, who appears to wear clothing from the natural form era, the fashion in the movie is decidedly 1890s. Based on the size of the leg of mutton sleeves I'd say right in the middle of the decade, that's when they reached ultimate puffiness before gradually shrinking in size again. I don't know if the exact year in which the majority of the story takes place was ever stated, but we see multiple women sporting the same silhouette, which is definitely not Edwardian.
@a user Wearing vintage fashion wasn't a thing until at least 1970s, I believe. Ladies of the Victorian era were expected to follow the fashion of the time in order to appear proper and fit into society. The same standards didn't apply to elder women though, they could wear older fashions 💗
@@KimaiiChan From what I saw of the clothes, it DEFINITELY wasn't consistent with the fashion of the early 1880's. To me, it looks mid-1890's. But I could be wrong.
@@mandypandy111ify You might very well be right at that! I personally think the movie takes place somewhere around 1905, the movie did say around 20 years old about Thomas Sharpe, however Lucille might've been a bit more recent. I will also admit I'm more knowledgable about the Edwardian era than I am the Victorian!
Ages ago i saw a gifset on tumblr abt the costume designer talking about how often lucille outfits used the same detailing and fabrics as the ones they used on the house, "almost as if her and that haunted house are made from the same cloth" fascinating
Fascinating! Thank you for this bit of trivia. :)
whoa..
I love this movie more everytime I learn something new about it! If you guys haven't already, please watch the behind the scenes/making of videos
Wow, Consumption and Anorexia have alot in common - in respect to how they are often romanticised yet tragic, unpleasant conditions.
true, I was going to say how much the glamourisation of consumption reminds me of the heroin chic look of the 90s
@@moonlites2028 Similar elements of 'rich & famous people take an element of suffering and make it popular' lmao
I don't know of anyone who romanticizes anorexia.
@@Netjerett - are her fans kids?
@@benjalucian1515 aesthetic communities on tumblr in the 2010s, i think it’s tiktok now, just block the pro ana tag
This movie is just so underrated in general. I'm always finding new details and symbols
An incredibly underrated film discussed by an incredibly underrated content creator. This was wonderful! WHY DONT THEY HAVE MORE SUBSCRIBERS THIS IS A CRIME.
Wow gotta watch it now
I loved it. The design and particularly costumes are breathtaking, not an aspect I usually even notice :)
You should buy the art book from the website of the studio who produced the movie! It’s like a horror pop-up book it’s wild
It's because it was predictable, but I still liked it a lot.
That shot of Lucille chasing Edith down the stairs is just gorgeous. She's BECOME the moth.
I'm proud to be like #666. 🪰
[Unfortunately there is no moth emoji, so this fly will have to do.]
YOU ARE RIGHT OMG
Ö
Moth gf goals ?
Imagine it's 1860 you go up to your friend and say, "I fear my friend for I have consumption." and she says, "LUCCKKKYYY I WANT CONSUMPTION! YOU GONNA BE SO SKINNY! IMAGINE ALL THE HOT DUDES IMMA MEET AT YOUR FUNERAL!"
Insert: “Kim there are people that are dying meme”
jfdls;hlsdg
@@alyssapinon9670 then she asks you for exactly one cigarette, I can see it and hear it now, and i love it. This has always been my second or third thought in relation to living in the victorian era
lol!! so trueee!!
I lowkey could not get enough of Lucille's wardrobe evolution though. Like she's not just wearing clothes that are old- she's wearing her MOTHER’S dresses, her mother whom she hated, resented, murdered viciously, and then apparently whose wardrobe she snatched and hardly altered at all after getting back from the psych ward. But in the end scene she is completely undone- she's in her own shift, her own simple dark covering hanging about her and tied with a red ribbon, made that way by the truth coming out, it just *chefs kiss*
"Gothic" was born to describe medieval architecture, and it had a negative connotation( it was seen as ugly by Renaissance standard, that was based on Classic canons), then it started to be used to refer to "medieval style" in general. During the Victorian Era there was quite a big medieval revival.
The film/story itself has firm roots in gothic fiction/horror which is a literary convention starting in the late 1700s
@@QuirkyShiny exactly. The "Gothic fiction" started (allegedly) with "the castle of Otranto", followed by many other novels set in haunted medieval castles.
This is why is called "Gothic fiction" (from gothic architecture, which is medieval).
Old castles influenced Victorian architecture as well. This is why Victorian houses are often used into horror movies (like "psycho", which is more of a thriller, but the purpose of using one is the same).
The word has an even older meaning, in that the Goths were a group of people who ruled Europe right after the Western Roman Empire fell. Gothic (the language they spoke), was part of the East Germanic branch of the Germanic language family, w/ that whole branch now being extinct. Gothic architecture is a style that was first used by where the Goths ruled, but soon spread all over Europe. So yeah, a word that once just referred to a tribe of people, now is a fashion style centered around dark colors, and sort of creepy/halloweeny vibe. Makes you wonder what the word English is gonna mean in a thousand years! 😅
@@lazycatjansen9442 yeah, i didn't mention it 'cause i thought the discussion was focused more on an artistic level and i wanted to make things short ahah, but you're right, it's definitely a fascinating thing how words can change their meaning and evolve overtime
It’s also kind of ironic how what the Renaissance standard defined as Goth: aka dark gloomy ancient buildings, when those same buildings were only like that because they were never properly cleaned. In fact, when they were built, they let in A LOT of light and were amazing to be in and weren’t dark or gloomy at all. In fact, if they kept those buildings as clean as the Notre Dame de Paris Cathedral is today, the “goth” architecture wouldn’t have been defined as such. Also, the Renaissance was behind the stigma of the “Dark Ages”, which actually weren’t regressive in how we think they are: when the Roman Empire got kicked out of what we know as Britain, the Celtics that lived there simply abandoned Roman style for their own simpler one aka they went back to doing things their own way. It’s the equivalent of making everyone study science when most really want to be another major, and when the rule is changed, mostly everyone abandoning science to pursue another major, but you don’t think pursuing science as a major is any better than pursuing English or a humanities major right? As proof , look up the etymology of the word barbarian, as that is what the Romans called the Goths. You’ll find the original meaning behind what they exactly called them very very interesting.
Lucille grabbing the knife from the drawer and the way the gown flowed with that movement was so ghostly and then her running around is literally engrained in my mind as one of the most hauntingly beautiful scenes of all time
The entire film was a painting, but with real living people and backgrounds. Just gorgeous to look at, even during the dark/creepy moments.
YES. The first time I saw this film I was freaking my shit over the costumes, especially Lucille’s. Her dresses are extremely well kept but about 20 years out of date. Not only does it have more grounded purpose in showing that the siblings are aristocrats that have fallen on hard times, but it also cements her as the personification of the past. Lucille represents the dark, comfortable dusty past for her brother, the safety of their relationship in a groaning, rotted, haunted old mansion replaying the same exhausting cycle like they’re already the ghosts that haunt the place. Edith represents the New World, progress, new beginnings (and eras) and clean slates. Lucille looks like she’s trapped in these constricting velvet and taffeta prisons, locked into the past that refuses to let her free. Edith moves easily in more practical, flowing outfits that suit her more progressive, on the go lifestyle.
It felt like a cool Easter egg for people who have a cursory knowledge of historical fashion but not everyone knows. Totally thrilled the shit out of me.
It’s the perfect modern Gothic Romance tbh. I know you say the twist is...unfortunate, but damn if it doesn’t nail gothic romance on the head. Weird spooky incest siblings scream gothic romance to me. Heathcliff and Catherine were *practically* brother and sister, so I think it works really well in the context of the genre.
EDIT: would also like to add that while I’ve never heard it confirmed, I always thought Lucille’s conspicuously blue dress was lowkey a reference to Blue Beard, especially considering her behavior once Edith gets to the manor. She has all these keys and forbids Edith from going into certain areas of the house and I couldn’t help but think “female Blue Beard” while watching the movie.
AAAAAAAAAAAA I WAS THINKING THE SAME THING!!!!! (faerietales are my special interest) like, how she confirms that edith went into the room by using the keys? and how at least one of the corpses of the women before her was stored in a vat/tub in the forbidden room? totally bluebeard
@@flu-shot-turned-me-gay general, reporting for doody, whaddaya need
I literally said to the friends I watched the film with that it was (in my mind at least) clearly inspired by Bluebeard. At which point I found out that apparently a lot of people never read or had that horror told to them as children 😅
I don't really see Lucille as the female version though. I see her and her brother more as two broken halves of one single person. Not so much a good and bad side, but a side still capable of feeling human emotions towards another Vs a side only capable of relating to themselves, and terrified by the idea of outside influence. Lucille killing her brother is figuratively (and literally) killing herself and her future. I might be reading too much into it though.
Interestingly, if you look at the Bluebeard wiki, Crimson Peak is listed under films
The blue beard thing is a really good point!!! Thank you for teaching me this!!
"Death and despair, and pretty dresses," I'm hooked.
I wonder if a parallel could be drawn between 19th century tuberculosis chic, and the trend of cancer romances and 'manic cancer dream girls', women whose fleeting nature is meant to teach the men of the story about life and about love. women in these stories are nearly never portrayed accurately, for example shailene woodley in the Fault in Our Stars. xx
Wasnt the guy the one who died and existed for the benefit of the female lead?
Omg you’re right! God I learn so much from the comments and the video
this phase is so ingrained in my brain, like it was yes a few years ago but.. ok i live in italy and here, at the time, we got a few italian movies (that went along with the usually american ones like the fault in our stars) like one about this red-headed girl that the protagonist was in love with, and she got leukemia, and *then* we got a whole tv drama thingy about kids in the hospital. most of them on the verge of death at the drop of a hat and tragic romances all around. it was incredibly popular and honestly? i cried so fucking hard at that one. but yeah it was... a time.
A Walk to Remember is another movie
That book genre is known as "sick-lit" like Fault In Our Stars, etc.
This very much set the ground for the “sick-lit” that is still so popular today, where terminal illness is something that’s seen as tragic, beautiful, romantic and exploited as such, especially in inevitable movie adaptations.
Yeah. Idk why I ate that shit up as a teenager but I kinda regret it now 🤦🏽♀️
@@alyssapinon9670 same
@@alyssapinon9670 character development lmao
yeah my mom had tb. she's alive but had part of her lung removed. it's pretty rare now so it was so surprising to doctors she had it. pretty disturbing disease. not something one should romanticize.
I hate this, so much. John green can maybe possibly literally go get BENT. Nothing about it is okaaaayyyyyyy.
I mostly wish it didn't exist because they leave you entirely unprepared for when you get really sick and everyone in your life distances themselves because they're unexperienced with death, illness and terminal illness, and they just don't know how to handle it so they stay away so as to not.
Now this doesn't happen to everyone, but this is a literal trope, now, things I didn't know until I fractured my spine and couldn't walk
Hope that my comment saves somebody from that same deeply traumatizing experience hidden within a traumatizing experience.
"Notice how prevalent those s e x y s e x y consumption symptoms are"
never thought I'd hear THAT when I clicked on this video.
The clasped hands on Edith's belt are also a symbol often used in headstones. Basically "We shall meet again in death"
This is such a cool and informative video essay! I don't know much about Crimson Peak but I'm really fascinated by the Victorian Era and the consumptive image. One thing I've read (primarily in The Victorian Book of The Dead, a loose collection of primary sources about Victorian-era funeral customs that I highly, highly reccommend) is that tuberculosis was also considered a "beautiful death;" it allowed you to have a long, slow decline, while mentally lucid enough to set your affairs in order, and, because germ theory wasn't as pervasive, bid fond goodbyes to all of your family members in person. I just find it interesting that the progression of the disease itself also lead to the idealization of it! I really enjoyed this essay and I'm glad more people are talking about this very weird part of mourning culture, I think it's absolutely fascinating.
Hi there! I have tuberculosis and can attest to some of this! Yes, it absolutely is a slow decline. Most people with tuberculosis don't have a cough serious enough to warrant attention and it goes un-diagnosed for years. Lucidity however depends on how serious your symptoms! Tuberculosis makes you lose your appetite and some other symptoms include nausea and vomiting. The night sweats and abdominal pain can be so severe you also won't be able to sleep. After so many nights of not eating, not drinking, and not sleeping, that lucidity slips away real quick. My doctors took forever diagnosing me and had been dismissing my issues or telling me it was in my head. After what I've experienced, I'm sure the majority of tuberculosis sufferers in the Victorian-era were institutionalized before they were sent to a doctor. Having tuberculosis suuuuucks, doctors don't listen to you and people find you oddly attractive when you're feeling the worst.
@@pixiestyx8158 First of all, I am terribly sorry you had to fight so long to be diagnosed. Doctors can sometimes be right little bastards.
And stay away from herbal stuff. Especially Saint John's Wort. It neutralizes the medication for tuberculosis and can have it come back full force.
Secondly: "and people find you oddly attractive when you're feeling the worst."
WHAT THE FUCK IS WRONG WITH PEOPLE
@@elvingearmasterirma7241 No facility is taking accountability for me right now, so I'm not on any meds yet. It has been the most intense medical drama I've ever been apart of. I've gone from pcp, to infectious disease specialist, to health department, back to pcp, and now going back to the health department on Monday for more testing. It has been a month now with the diagnosis and I am not on any kind of treatment plan, so just over here nightsweating my way to a whole new me. I don't look "sick" in ways that people view unattractive. It's a fusion of "wow you look great and really need to eat something.".
@@pixiestyx8158 Jesus. I hope it gets sorted soon. ):
@@elvingearmasterirma7241 Thank you! In the Victorian era I would have taken to the streets dashing around in my chemise screaming my frustrations at the moon, but I'm super close to being labeled with a mood disorder after this so I'll settle for venting on the internet instead.
I remember seeing Crimson Peak advertised as this horror movie, and as a huuuuge horror movie fan I was hyped to see a historic horror themed film.
But as I watched it, sure enough it had horror aspects with the ghosts, it was the emotional aspects of it all that I enjoyed. I wish the adverts and the posters advertised it what it was, an elegant and emotional movie with small aspects of horror and not just a full on horror movie.
OP compare the costuming at the end of the movie to Lucille and Edith becoming like ghosts of the house, but I always thought the diaphanous sleeves and billow the shirts was meant to reflect how they had become the MOTHs of the house. This puts the restriction of Lucille's outfits on a further symbolic level of being the hard restrictive shell of some pupa. And when she sheds her outer layers, like the moths of the house, she hunts down Edith - clearly meant to harken back to the earlier line about how the moths of Allerdale Hall would subsist on 'butterflies', which Lucille clearly saw Edith as taking the role of. BUT, when Edith is caught in this life and death struggle with Lucille, Edith is ALSO dressed in white, not unlike a moth herself.... which one could argue foreshadows how she is not easy prey for Lucille in the end.
I cannot believe how excited I got at seeing that someone made a good quality video talking about my favourite looking film
14:38 just adding on, I love how this green robe enhances Edith's current state at this point in the film through colour. First, the pale, sickly green connects to her weakened state from the poisoning, exacerbating her pale skin and almost adding a green tinge of illness. Also, y'know, there tends to be an association between green and poison. Secondly, green is a secondary colour made by mixing yellow, which we associate here with light, warmth, life, Buffalo NY, and Edith herself, and blue, which we associate here with darkness, the cold, oppressive Allerdale Hall, and Lucille herself with her part 2 gown. We even see this in the colour grading of Buffalo vs Allerdale. This green of Edith's nightgown speaks to me about how deeply Allerdale and Lucille have affected her, corrupted her almost, and the incompatibility of the butterfly with the habitat of the moth. Like you said, night and day. Her warm yellow has been infected with the blue of her surroundings, and it has changed her irreversibly. However, the nightgown is trimmed with yellow. Her light still survives within her, even in her darkest hour, and she triumphs because she holds onto it, clinging to her strength, and hope, and belief in her sanity, and doesn't give in to the darkness. She defys the hall, slowing dragging her into the ground with it, and claws her way back to life.
this is smart as hell, i hope i’m able to see these kinds of things once i get into college and begin studying art.
Hey, Cholera wants to speak to you for leaving her off the epidemic list at the beginning.
Right! Especially because Edith's mom literally dies of Cholera in the beginning of the movie.
Dying of dehydration from diarrhea-not as sexy
Smallpox would like a word as well.
hehehe,the comments 😆
I love that after hearing the comparison of a moth and butterfly, The frantic flailing of Lucille when chasing Edith does resemble the frantic fluttering of a moth
Just finished watching crimson peak, I literally got chills from watching it. So many beautiful dresses and houses but such a despairful story. If you haven't watched it please do because you won't regret it
Ah yes, nothing says “sexy” like literally dying 💞💞💞
Not only is the costuming gorgeous and historically consistent, it directly plays a role in the story! Hell yeah!
'"The things we do for a love like this are ugly, mad, full of sweat and regret…This love burns you and maims you and twists you inside out. It is a monstrous love and it makes monsters of us all."' -Lady Lucille Sharpe. One of the best quotes in the movie and my favorite Lucille quote!
Hey everyone popping off "Why was Queen Victoria a terrible person" here in the comments, hear it from me, a big ole nerd for the 1840-70s: like other European monarchs, she turned a blind eye to many evil things done in other lands in the name of empire, particularly in India. See, for instance, the Bengal Famine Genocide, and the Irish Potato Famine (the Choctaw nation, themselves suffering much under American imperialism, gave a similar amount of financial support to the Irish people as Victoria. Note that Queen Victoria had the riches of the world at her disposal, and the Choctaw people had, in the last decade, been viciously forced upon the Trail Of Tears and moved to foreign lands, and the American government was determined to deprive them even of those lands). While perhaps she was not as heavy handed or bloodthirsty as other monarchs, she had the same problem as the English monarchy still has today: she was all too happy to be a bystander, to profit from colonialism and occasionally give to a charity to clean her image from that. She was all too happy to live her life of comfort, to let England tread upon the throat of the world, and not have to trouble her conscience about it. THAT is why she was a terrible person.
Not to mention doing things like dismissing her daughter's grief for her child because, in Vicky's words, "at least you didn't lose a husband as I did". Selfish and egotistical, to say the least.
@@camillabs87 it was the attitude of the day. Losing kids was expected. High mortality rates of children before modern medicine. The attitude was, you could always have another kid. But losing a spouse for a woman was devastating.
Not like Queen Victoria was any different from her fellow monarchs in this regard. She really didn't rule for many many years. Her Prime Minister did.
I’m not trying to advocate for her being a bystander to all the things most monarchs did, because what you said was 100% true, but in the case of America, didn’t the Monroe Doctorine physically and mentally prevent her from being involved in American politics?
@@benjalucian1515 This. I hate looking at the past and judging people with today's societal norms. Most people in the past would be considered terrible people, but not in their time. I think it's better to compare the times and see how far we have come rather than judge what was considered normal back then.
This was such an interesting video! I already loved the fashion in crimson peak but this video is making me appreciate it on a whole other level. Loved your analysis!
Thank you!
i legitimately was just texting my friends about crimson peak and how amazing the costumes are ..... thank u to the algorithm for showing me ur video!!!
This actually a visual masterpiece and I hate that it was marketed as a run of the mill horror movie because that’s what audiences were expecting so I think it’s remembered poorly.
this is one movie in particular that I truly wish had been a mini-series! the story is so incredible and I wish we'd gotten more! thank you for this incredible explanatory video
She was trying to write a book I'm assuming about her childhood experiences with ghosts and the guy who she took it to to publish said their needed to be a romance in it.. well after this whole thing she finally had the story of her life
We all die eventually, if you want some say in what you're buried in making your own shroud sounds kind of practical to me.
Wainanminnit... corsets.. can help with period cramps?! I’m literally watching this (fantastic) video with a heating pad pressed to my uterus waiting for the cramps to end lol I don’t even like bras very much but I might need to invest in a corset soon 🤔
I just bought a corset and it arrived in the mail today, my back and tummy felt great all day! Orchard Corset is a great brand of inexpensive proper steel boned corsets and you can find a lot of them on eBay as factory seconds for about half the price of retail.
@@cecilyerker thank you so much for the suggestion!! I found a few that I really like
@@cecilyerker I didn't know they sold the "2nds" there
@@jo4210 For the best fit and comfort a custom made is always the best bet but I do understand that money doesn't grow on trees. How ever; if you at some point have enough money left over and are interested in purchasing a custom made corset, there are several historical costumer channels on YT that deep dive in the world of corsetry and what to take into account.
Even for a second hand buy or not specially fitted garment I'd recomend taking a peek at their content if you haven't already. I'd recomend starting with Benadette Banner, she has experience on both modern medical corestry and historical corsetry.
@@Kardinaalilintu I’ve been watching a lot of Bernadettes videos lately!! I actually just watched one where she made a corset for her lady Sherlock outfit!
My mom had TB and had part of her lung removed. Definitely a pretty disturbing disease. She only tells me about It because I was like 5 when she had it. It's pretty rare these days, thankfully. she still doesn't know how she got it.
it's actually quite common still, we just are better equipped to deal with it; better public hygiene, better medical support for ill people, and better medicines to treat the illness and other options like surgery - so people are more likely to survive. I'm glad to hear your mum got better :)
Women kept burial shrouds because they would most likely die in child birth; not because of TB.
Great job on this explanation! I have a deep love for De Toro's work and was especially sad to see Crimson Peak overlooked. The details they put through all of the movie is pure artistry. If you watch the directors cut they also talk about details of writings on the walls.
I'm convinced I could spend all day talking about Crimson Peak alone.1☺
It ended up overlooked because critics and audiences were expecting a horror movie. Del Toro spoke up about his disappointment in the trailers and that he never intended it to be a traditional horror film. I think if it was advertised for what it was, more people that wanted to see it would have, and it would have been reviewed on it's own merit, as opposed to failing to be "scary." It's unfortunate, but at least it still has love from those of us that know what to expect from Del Toro. 😉
@@Amarianee Very true! I had forgotten it had been marketed as such. Then again, our concept of "scary" was different at that time to. Everyone wS into blood and gore.
I've always veered towards psychological thriller/horror. Like the 6th sense when it came out.
I'm always a fan of Del Toros work, and I agree that for those who are familiar with him know what to expect and can have a deep appreciation for even an "unpopular " piece.
My guess is in 20 years from now Crimson Peak will be a big cult hit.
@@latifx3944 I agree. And you're completely right about the time. Horror movies were being pumped out and there was big market for then (still is, but, really big then), so they tried to capitalize on that. The problem is that, the companies that make trailers, typically have no relation to the studios let alone the creators of films. So, they use their own discretion based on how _they_ think the movie should be marketed. I LOATHE misleading trailers, and audiences have loudly expressed that, yet it keeps happening 🙄 It's definitely been finding it's audience, so I think it will definitely become a cult hit; it's just a shame that, that's the way it went
Do u know if the director’s cut is available anywhere online?? That sounds so interesting
@@worrywirt honestly, Im not sure where you can watch it online. I bought the dvd as I like to collect all of his movies.
I really love how we haven't romanticized Covid-19 yet! I had it and it wasn't cute, I did get kind of pale and I lost weight but then I had a migraine so bad it was like torture and I vomited uncontrollably and had to be heavily drugged at the hospital... which definitely isn't sexy. Some people also lose their hair or lose control over their bladder Which also definitely isn't sexy.
Isn't there already a whole subgenre of erotic and/or romance novels based around the Covid quarantine? 😂
@@Eris_Norregard Okay but like satire is fun!
I worked in ICU from way before the pandemic until this past March. For me, pandemic fashion was this: old Birkenstocks falling apart, hospital scrubs that don't fit (for a while they provided OR scrubs because, reasons), homemade cloth masks over my N-95, at one point the N95 had to last six weeks until it smelled like stale pee, glasses, goggles over that, and the ugliest hat I have ever made in my life, looked like a Holly Hobbie bonnet without the sunshade. Oh yes, add gown, gloves, sometimes shoe covers on top of all that. I would have cut someone in half if they'd suggested I shove a face shield on top, some days. All of that made it likely for the hearing aids to spontaneously detach themselves and fall into contaminated trash, fun, fun... Anyways, that's got zilch to do with the movie, I'm sure. Just saying, I hope never to see any of that romanticized, as it's pretty nightmarish for me. Cottagecore, as a reaction, well that's pretty nifty, but hopefully nowadays, we know what "sick" looks like and don't think it's a good thing.
@@sherryhassler5932 first of all thank you for your service to the public! My aunt is a nurse too so I’ve heard of how terrifying it is to work at the hospital in covid times. Secondly I also much rather prefer cottage core as a reaction to covid than “sick core” because it’s more about escapism and hope than romanticizing illnesses. Plus the return of poofy sleeves, flouncy skirts, and fitted tops are a yes! I want to wear Mia Wasikowska’s poofy sleeves dresses in Crimson peak so badly
Oh my gosh I hope you are doing ok now! I got a more mild form of covid but it was still the worst I ever felt! I felt nauseous every time I walked so I wanted to lie down all the time. Nothing sexy about covid symptoms.
Quick correction: What you're referencing is "romantic" or "historical" goth, which did certainly show up fairly early. The original goth aesthetic-- "trad goth"-- was a direct spin-off from the punk aesthetic of the UK in the mid-late 70s (So, you know, dressing like Richard Hell): Leather, spikes, war coats, and high-maintenance hair paired with black as the dominant color, lace, and consumptive makeup of varying degrees of intricacy.
Sincerely,
An elder trad-goth
See, I'm not saying you're wrong, I'm just saying, by technicality, wouldn't the romantic or historical goth be more 'traditional' or 'original' than the punk spin-off of the 70s seeing as it came first? I understand entirely what you mean, it's just logically I can't really say people are wrong for thinking the one that came first as the original.
Edit to Add: Y'all I was making an effing joke, lmao. Stop replying to me with the facts, I just made a joke and pointed out why people can come to that conclusion when they aren't interested beyond a light context. I didn't even point out how we're taught briefly about "Gothic architecture" and how the reasonable conclusion would be that the time gothic architecture was built was the original time period of gothic aesthetics.
I will not be reading any of your replies, it's been over a year at this point. Let. It. Go.
@@pucklebearry The gothic subculture has many different aesthetics tied to it. I'm pretty sure the original goths were inspired by the punk and glam rock aesthetics as well as the victorian era, But technically trad goth did come first because it solidified the subculture.
@@pucklebearry The subculture mostly came from the music, and the first goth bands definitely looked far more punk than Victorian. Bauhaus are probably the quintessential goth band, and their look was all about leather pants, fishnet, torn black tees, big hair, bold makeup, and Peter Murphy doing his best to be a camp-horror David Bowie.
A good look at bands like The Damned, Siouxie and the Banshees, The Cure, and other bands that were at the foundation of the scene in the late 70's and early 80's, shows that they definitely shared a punk or post-punk look. Genre purists still argue whether The Damned are punk or goth, and Sid Viscous of The Sex Pistols was Siouxie and the Banshees original drummer.
Something that some kids might not get is that these old subcultures had a lot more to them than internet aesthetics; back in the day we grew our subcultures *organically!*
Just want to add: the goth subculture is music driven (the modern iteration that is). Which indeed started as a spin off of the 70’s punk movement!
@@pucklebearry Goth and Gothic are not the same thing, just pasting this here rq:
@Lazycat jansen not entirely correct. First of all Goth and Gothic are different terms with different meaning. "The" Goths were what you correctly explained, a specific group of people. The word Gothic on the other hand is a descriptive word used for Architecture, Literature, Films and other things, but it is not Goth. "Goth" or the "Goth subculture" is a music based subculture and not a fashion or style. Yes, the Goth subculture has a typical fashion that developed with it but this fashion is not a must or the center of the subculture, the main focus is the music, Goth Rock or Post punk. And also a lot of Goth music incorporates Gothic literature and movies, but that doesn't make the latter Goth. Just like, if for example a Pop song talks about Candy, that wouldn't make Candy "Pop". I get that it's confusing due to the words being very similar, but please remember that Goth≠Gothic and that Goth is a music subculture and NOT just a style/fashion or everything that is "spooky".
watched crimson peak for the first time last week and i fell in love with it, it’s a rather tragic and unexpected story, but i did love it very much. the way the story was told and how the story moves swiftly but with so much detail is incredible
I was just diagnosed with tuberculosis a couple weeks ago and I needed this video. I'm iron deficient consumption-chic and it has been a weird experience.
Oof, I hope you're doing alright! Best of luck in healing, dude
@@horseenthusiast1250 Thank you! Still haven't heard from anyone regarding a conclusion yet after this week's testing, fingers crossed for some news on Monday.
I hope you're doing better
@@NightmareVixen12art Thank you 🖤 they just told me yesterday I'm not contagious, but I need to wait a month and a half for them to grow a culture for them to decide what meds I need to be on to treat it. The heath department can only treat me for the TB, but not the fierce symptoms. My PCP can't do anything more for me, so i'm at the "if you can't breathe or faint go to the emergency room" part of my medical care. I asked for Xanax so I wouldn't be climbing the walls and could try to mellow out and try to eat more, but no dice. BeCaUsE ITs AdDiCtIvE. Definitely had a 15 minute pity party for myself yesterday, but doing much better today. Thank you again for asking. 🖤
@@pixiestyx8158 You're welcome. Get better soon
I finally got around to watching Crimson Peak a few months ago (after 5 freaking years of wanting to, damn) and I love it so freaking much, especially for the costumes.
i’ve seen crimson peak so many times (mainly bc tom hiddleston looks exceptionally beautiful in it) and it is definitely underrated.
Death, despair and pretty dresses?
Ooooh, I'm in, friend.
oof i had the opportunity to see these dresses in person. as stunning as they are in the movie and pictures, they are truly something to gawk at in person
How surprisingly intelligent this small film has turned out to be--
I had landed the video quite by chance, but will certainly try to view more of your work, Kaz Rowe. I sometimes search far afield in following my interest in Nineteenth Century art, especially Symbolist Painters and the era of their work. Your unique view into "the beautiful disease", and Victorian culture, made my day. And I'm sure that your other offerings are likely to contain just as much quality content. Thanks.
this was so well done!! i just watched the film for the first time yesterday and the costuming really stuck out to me; not in the technical/historical sense as you've explained so well, but more in the colour symbolism way e.g lucille's colour palette in the house resembling the colour of its walls & its interior which only emphasises her emotional ties to it/the idea that the house too is something she's not just trapped within, but a rot she's indistinguishable from. and the historical side of it really added to that feeling of total entrapment like....talk about being trapped in a house that's metaphorically consuming you while the spectre of a disease - amidst all the ghosts of said house - hang overhead. well
sorry this is so long i really really enjoyed this thanks for making it
I only just heard of this movie. I literally just paused the video because the context of it was so interesting, I need to go watch it! I'll be back soon
Good choice, It's an excelent movie.
This was such an awesome and educational video! I’ve never heard of Crimson Peaks, but the plot seems very similar to Edgar Allan Poe’s short story, The Fall of the House of Usher. Lots of parallels with the house being a living part of this dark, twisted family only survived by these (possibly incestuous) brother and sister. Seems like the movie is almost a beautiful reimagined version of House of Usher, which makes sense since it’s written by one of the most well known Gothic Romantic American writers! I’m geeking! Loved the video!
When i saw this in theatres, I fully expected the house to collapse at the end Usher style haha. This is the closest film to the plot of the Fall of the House of Usher, always been my fave Poe
Thank you for your informed video, Kaz Rowe! There's a fascinating book called "Tuberculosis and the Victorian Literary Imagination," by Katherine Byrne. Byrne explores how the Western world's interpretation of tuberculosis evolved over time. Queens, princes and commoners were afflicted alike by this ghastly scourge, but artists (such as the Pre-Raphaelites) made it 'fashionable.'
Isn't it a wonderful book? 😻
The right amount of correct historical information about "medicine through time"
I loved the ambiance in Crimson Peak's! And I loved your video about it!
Me watching the familial twist scene can be summed up by the “I’m gonna vomit” vine. I watched this movie last night and loved the costumes, but I wanted to see how historical fashion youtubers rated the accuracy of it. Now I’ve learned a lot about Victorian fashion trends and got a good laugh too. You have a new subscriber Kaz!
I'm so happy that CZcams recommended me your channel, everything amazing in one place with incredible research ❤❤❤
I was an opera student for a good eight years. It seems like tuberculosis is a major plot point in every opera ever written from about 1800 onward and is responsible for death of ever operatic heroine in the same timeframe. How striking that a woman dying of a respiratory illness should suddenly gain the breath to have a big, dramatic swan song before dying in the arms of her beloved in the final scene!
hi im victoria i have autism and im from canada , i love your channel and it helps me calm down when my anger takes over, my body heat is uncontrolable , and i have serious self harm past, but i think sharing is caring, keeping a strict daily scheduale, and staying healthy and my mind occupied with interesting hobbies, i can manage my symptoms so much better . i just wanted to share, thanks for the great uploads!
I am a huge fan of this director, this film, and the Victorian period has fascinated me since I was about 4 and remember my mother telling me for the first time that I was named for Queen Victoria,a historical figure she had studied in depth and admired. This is a great vid. Now subbed!
Goth isn't exclusively rooted in the Victorian Era as such, but moreover in Romanticism, where the sublime as well as death and other became important topics. Dracula, Frankenstein etc. are all Gothic novels, Gothic being a subgenre and/or successor of the Romantic movement.
Didn't the romantic movement span from about 1830 to 1890? Seeing as Queen Victoria died in 1891 that would place them in the same time period, romanticism just being an art movement taking place within the Victorian era. I could be wrong but I think that's how it is
You definitely deserve more views! This is so well done!
WOW this was really well done! I really enjoyed learning from this and would love to see more!
i remember the discourse for this movie was maddening: no one was looking at the fact that Thomas was very much a victim, and while he was also a villain in a bunch of ways and he cant be redeemed, he does feel sorrow for his actions and tries to help Edith in the end. I think he was a trauma survivor still being tormented and warped by his abuser, his older sister. it made me so angry
That's one thing I really like about Miyazaki's The Wind Rises, it's an anime movie that kids can watch but it shows the protagonists fiancee coughing up a large amount of blood, she's seriously ill and it isn't romanticized.
We read the original book and watched the movie in my Japanese lit class. It's really good. I'm glad to see someone else who knows about it here.
I thoroughly enjoyed watching this! I seem to have stumbled upon it in my search for character design references, and this just made it so much more of a transparent process, along with giving me such riveting information about the Victoria era. Kudos!
This is an excellent blend of history, fashion, and film analysis. No notes. More of this please.
Syphillus also left a mark on fashion in the Victorian era and especially the century before, but in the opposite way. Things like heavy makeup and powdered wigs started as ways to hide evidence of syphillus
I agree with you in every point but one: Alan is not there for nothing. Besides providing the visual opposite to Thomas, with tanned skin and blond hair, he sets Edith's leg. But most importantly: he is the retrospective comic relief, retrospective because it took me a while to realise this: Eunice is his sister, but when Thomas is courting her, he doesn't give a damn. Only when Thomas turns his attention on Edith does he get suspicious. So, he is a terrible brother and it's quite funny
I already adored this movie, and your analysis and explanation just made it sooo much better 🥰 I felt the things you explained without understanding the reasons why
Im so glad that CZcams suggested this video, now I'm in love with your channel and I'm making sure to like all of the videos! Much love from Brazil ❤️
I just discovered your channel yesterday. I'm learning so much, and I'm incredibly grateful!!
realised after your latest upload that I never commented on this video >.< this one was super super interesting - I've never really known too much about Victorian fashion and what trends were, and the costume design aspect was really cool!!
Your videos are so well done i want to watch forever
i remember some years back a heroine chic with an eerie overlap in beauty "standards" to consumption chic: pale, emaciated, pinks and reds bringing out the lips, eyes, and highest points of the cheekbones.
This was fascinating! It's amazing how much thought and detail went into the costuming. Thank you for all the work you put into these videos.
This color theory is eerily similar to tge one used in Hallmark's A Christmas Prince 😂😂😂
Underrated comment.
Im so glad this video came into my suggestion, I loved the movie, absolutely loved it. The whole movie was like a painting that's straight out of another era, each frame and each set so beautifully crafted I could really watching over and over and always be amazed and inspired. The clothes and dresses are beyond breathtaking, the part where Lucille ran after Edith with her dress bellowing around her was so stunning, it was like a dream, I knew it then that I was in love with this movie. I bought the movie on google just so I can always have it with me
EXCELLENT piece as ALWAYS Kaz !!!!!! 👍❤️❤️
You are instantly my new favourite CZcamsr! Two videos into this marathon thank youuuu
your vidoes are so well made and so informative and nice to watch! i really hope you will gain bigger following because you certainly deserve it :0
Thank you so much! :'D
I loved crimson peak. The symbolism that they put into it was gorgeous and also really has you thinking. Even with some interesting turns it was really beautiful and well thought out.
This was so eloquoently put with such beautiful descriptors. Thank you for putting this together. ❤
I love the insight you have on this story, and it's wonderful to listen to. I'm adding this to my list to listen to again.
This is gold and you deserve way more subs
"Hop into my hearse lads!"
I'm gonna have to use that in October.
Currently crafting a Victorian London D&D campaign and videos like yours (and your sources) are super helpful! 😭 thank you so much!
Such a great video!! Thanks for sharing ❤
The TB got me interested. Stayed for the humour.
As a descendant of Robert Koch, thank you for pronouncing our name correctly. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve heard it mispronounced on TV or by my professors. 🤦🏼♀️
OMG I so happy I found this!! I love the video. New fan💛💛
Fantastic analysis. I can already feel this becoming one of my comfort video essays to revisit from time to time. A perfect balance of historical context and film analysis
Very cool and informative!!!
I love how disgusted you look whenever you mention the ~familial~ twist. I guess that's exactly the type of horror Gothic novels wanted to evoke in readers whenever the trope was used in Literature (and why Guillermo decided to use it in his own writing of a Gothic tale): sexuality, secret, taboo... And horrifying. I have yet to read through the Gothic books in my to-buy list, but it seems like this tight proximity to relatives, even when talking about romantic/sexual relationships, was used to shock and bring accentuate the decadence that is so characteristic of short stories and novellas.
Actually, scratch that: sexuality is quite literally at the center of the decaying morals and prestige of most of these Gothic themed pieces of writing.
I love the movie so much (even though it doesn't seem to affect people not even half as much as it moved me?? maybe it's because I want to be a writer myself, so I could see a lot of the naïve, romantic, aspiring writer that she is in myself), but I hadn't yet looked for videos talking about it. I searched for Hawley's interviews, cast interviews, Guillermo del Toro's interviews, even articles online on the symbols so carefully crafted into the foundations of costume and scenario [non-English speaker question mark here] designs... But I'm thrilled I managed to find your video on it and, consequently, your channel.
Never hit the subscribe button so fast.
I'd like to add I said "I love" as in "it's really nice to see how it brings the reaction it's meant to bring in people"; not as in "love to see someone cringe".
Noticed now it might sound super weird and creepy. FFS, I'm a mess at comments, why do I insist on writing them ;w; Sorry
No no this was really cool to read! Tbh I mostly watched the movie because of Tom Hiddleston so it’s really nice to see someone so genuinely passionate about and able to connect so deeply with a piece of art. I’m not a writer but I do relate to the naive, hopeless romantic aspect since I consume way too much romantic media (like this movie 😂) and your English is great! This video and the comments gave me a much better appreciation for the film and all the thought that went into it.
Oh and me watching the “familial twist” scene can be summed up by the “I’m gonna vomit” vine.
Do you have any gothic literatures to recommend?
@@midnightstarlis6405 Off of the top of my head, I can think of a few titles I've seen recommended as gothic literature: The Castle of Otranto, The Monk, Wuthering Heights, The Fall of the House of Usher...
I’ve actually been really interested into consumptive fashion of that era for a long time. I’m glad to see someone else take interest in it, also your outfit and look is goals!
I really appreciate all the research you’ve done. This is a fascinating video!
This movie is one of my favourite pieces of media. I have the dvd, ive read the book, saw it on cinema, listen to the audiobook all the time. It has even inspired some of my artwork. Just makes my heart beat faster. ♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️
“Hop in my hearse lads” is too good for me not to steal
Thank you so much for making this! I love this movie and all the work that went into it and really appreciate your analysis and insight!
Crimson Peak is my favorite movie of all time. This was such a fantastic thorough essay, thank you!