You use your tape in framing all the time. It's blocking it doesn't need to be perfect even though his cuts are all within 3/32nds which is just fine for blocking. If we need to be precise then we will pull out the tape and make it precise
We often have to do entire walls. Just did a 60'x140' shop with 2 rows of blocking all the way around. I build a jig for that. Takes a minute or 3 to slap together and can cut hundreds of blocks per hour at precisely 22 and 7/16 and also perfectly square. Edit: I meant 14 and 7/16. For those of you who think that it should be a full 14 1/2, if you can point me where to find lumber perfect enough to do that, I'd like to know. Maybe you're building with LVLs for framing lumber?
@@Loo0ch that would work fine. We are diversified enough that we never use our miter saws for framing because they need to stay tight and accurate enough for interior trim work. I don't think a miter saw with a stop block would be much if any faster than the jig I build and would take more time to set up. I'd be fine with seeing someone prove me wrong tho
I drive around till I find a strung out beaver holding a "will work 4 fewd" sign up. I'll set him up with a tape measure and the problems fix themselves. 😂
Doesn’t matter what the measurement is…you’re doing it in the corners…and even if your doing it otherwise if ya hold just off flush and do that trick it will work perfectly. Is a really good trick to learn! 👍🏻
If you have a shop and a chop saw with a stop. I slap a jig together and we cut blocking on site as we go with scraps and the most crooked boards. End up with very little waste.
Pre cut in the shop is the best. This guy's method is ok when you only need a few. But despite that he doesn't know shit about the parts of a saw and really shouldnt say 1-1/2" distance when saws vary a little.
I just set up a miter saw with a framing blade, mark the length on fence after your first cut then you can go way faster than any jig and can cut 2-3 at the same time with precision.
@@edwardallen2696 you’re right. General Contractor In a rural area actually, gotta have all the tools and be good at everything because the subs aren’t coming to save you out here😂😂
@@edwardallen2696 The full quote by Shakespeare is, "A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one." And I’d bet I’d school you all day any day on more than poetry boy.
I had one in the front. But that was only for if I couldn’t get to the one in my back. You put it in the back so you can grab your hammer with either hand how ever you are standing.
I read through the comments already and I think what’s needed to be said has been taken care of. But whatever works for you. If your work is flawless in the end and done in an efficient manner doesn’t always matter how you get there. To each his own.
So here's me at 4:30am going to the shop and pulling a tape on blade to guard distance on my Skilsaw... Man, I learn something new EVERY DAY on the internet!
@jisezer what if he was building your house? You want crooked ass cuts and joints that don't meet up right? Or you want it right?. Now saying that, it can also be done right with a circular saw if you know what your doing and your good. But in my experience if you use a circular saw on the job site like in this video you are opening yourself for a potential dangerous problem. Like saw kickback and lose a finger or worse. Chop saw can eliminate most of that.. but it does burn up a little more time. Especially on bigger jobsites
@@jisezer cutting a hip on a chop saw is much easier for the average person. The chop saw isnt the only saw used either its just for precision cuts mainly, especially rafters.
@@ACLz28 no, as a contractor I can say I definitely DON'T want him building my house. Studs are cut to 1/16 of an inch tolerance. If you can't use a Skil saw to cut studs, welp don't be a framer
My dude if you can't feel almost flush with your finger you need a different hobby, and maybe an MRI. There's no guessing involved. It's not rocket science
Regardless of what you pointed at or the keelee gap you had, the method you used is quick accurate and efficiant if you didn't leave it a little off flush. Great tip
@@AidanSmitfishing yeah man, it's hard to get decent lumber without going through every piece. Even getting orders from specialty suppliers has been a shit show.
Framing square at the horses, standing up sraight not all hunched over cutting all commons 14 3/8. Mass produce. Good saw man will have a stock pile of all common cut parts waiting for the what we use to call " Nail drivers" to install. Don't know what they call themselves now cause nobody drives nails anymore. 😂😂😂😂
Nice trick but I got a Makita cordless, the edge of the shoe is an 1 1/4” from the blade 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️And for everyone trying to correct your term usage..it’s actually called the saw’s “shoe”! Not guard, fence, or table. Go look it up!!
@@travisdoe4663actually I broke out a chop saw on the drive site cordless to cut up blocks on track homes and it made a hell of a difference Preparation favors the victorious
Not to mention the fact that you can't measure blocks at the midspan blocking line they have to be measured at the plate unless every piece of material is perfect
Anything to do with the deck of your saw, only applies when the saw is new. As soon as the saw is dropped or someone loads something on top of your saw. The deck of the saw is usually bent or manipulate somehow. Always watch the blade when you cut a board. Your cut will always be on your mark when watching the blade, as a posed to using the deck as your guide.
I’ve used different saws and they measured different depths from the footplate edge. Good tip though. I’d probably use a chop saw if I have to do a bunch. Or make a jig.
im with you they were both too short. first one you might be able to let go and nail it but if you had a whole wall of those. all your studs would be sucking in
The second technique is the way I learned back in the early 80's. We had no gaps. He had gaps on both cuts. There's no substitute for skill and experience.
@chrislull670 lol, I've been framing for over 40 years kid, if you can't fit a simple block properly, you lack the skills to build anything else. That's the problem with with so many people, no pride in their work. No one will remember how fast you build, they will always remember how nice or shitty you build. Don't be a hack.
All Good and we'll, until your wall has a ¾ inch bow and it's already sheathed. Just wait until it's sheathed and bang em in. A good framer should be able to do that in a timely fashion.
This is why you read every page of the manuals that come with tools. Never assume you know everything, you will only miss out on advancements in tool design.
Looks like your idea of "perfect" and most of ours is miles apart! You STILL had a 1/4" gap on your block. That is because you aren't allowing for the width of the blade, and pulling 1/8" from flush on the stud edge! WHY would you not perfect your "method" before "teaching" us the improper way?!?
This is so funny how all these guys go on CZcams and they talk about this and talk about that, but I’ve never met one contractor in my life that was honest and good and actually really knew what they are doing
Good tip. I always go 14 3/8+" on 16"oc they always grow and push. I had to have the flexvolt worm drive but im lefty and felt more comfortable using the old flexvolf circ. We used to sheath them then stand them. Pull 16's when nailing and make sure it's dead square in form
Old school here, Framed custom homes in north dallas, In the early 80's. We completely removed the safeties on our saws, and so did every crew I ever worked with,(4). Nobody ever got so much as a nick. I am aware this wouldn't fly these days... We also wired The safety back on our nail guns, People have a tendency to bounce the gun, When the safety is operating. Plus.. People will walk around with their finger on the trigger, Rellying on the safety to fire the nail, Not a good thing if you Accidentally Stumble ,and bump some thing, A nail will shoot and hit somebody. I remember a story in the news, From dallas, A man was walking the joist, On the incomplete second floor, When when he stumbled, The safety on the nail gun fired a nail, It ricochet and centered a man's head, Doctor said if it wasn't exactly centered like it was, It would have killed him instantly. They showed the x-ray in the news, The nail was completely flush, The man finished the day at work, Complained of a headache. I have never heard even one story of anybody on framing job getting hit with an errant nail, With the safety's pinned back. It also makes it much easier to toenail a windbrace, When setting walls.
I've never seen this trick, I think it should be explained though you should measure near the top or bottom, that way your blocks are going to be accurate to how big the space should be. If you measure in the middle, your studs could be bowed and you might be cutting a 14" block or whatever.
Great pointer. Learned that from an old school carpenter years ago. My only thing is i want my blocks exactly 14 1/2 or 22 1/2 to pull my stud straight.
The most important thing to know about framing is Spanish.
😂
Lmao fr
Especially down here on Texas gulf coast, I think I was the last white framer
@@Pha-q
Dont forget to mention Trump 2024 ..
Just learn key terms like “close enough” “idgaf” and “no one will see it” and you’ll be part of the $10 crew in no time 😂
That’s the difference between framing and carpentry
A tape
Framing is a type of carpentry dork. There's different kinds of carpentry.
Stop made no sense 😂
You use your tape in framing all the time. It's blocking it doesn't need to be perfect even though his cuts are all within 3/32nds which is just fine for blocking. If we need to be precise then we will pull out the tape and make it precise
@@chrislull670not in my world. Carpentry to me is finished woodworking. Framing is just framing. Rough cut
@@franklinauguste415 it does you just don't have any
We often have to do entire walls. Just did a 60'x140' shop with 2 rows of blocking all the way around. I build a jig for that. Takes a minute or 3 to slap together and can cut hundreds of blocks per hour at precisely 22 and 7/16 and also perfectly square.
Edit: I meant 14 and 7/16. For those of you who think that it should be a full 14 1/2, if you can point me where to find lumber perfect enough to do that, I'd like to know. Maybe you're building with LVLs for framing lumber?
How about a miter saw with a stop block?
@@Loo0ch that would work fine. We are diversified enough that we never use our miter saws for framing because they need to stay tight and accurate enough for interior trim work. I don't think a miter saw with a stop block would be much if any faster than the jig I build and would take more time to set up. I'd be fine with seeing someone prove me wrong tho
@@Loo0chpopping o
@@Pha-qmiter saws are safer too. Also a perfect square cut
I drive around till I find a strung out beaver holding a "will work 4 fewd" sign up.
I'll set him up with a tape measure and the problems fix themselves. 😂
The way I do it is find any guy named Guillermo who drives a green 2009 F-150 with a Tamaulipas sticker on the back window.
If any body can a mexi can.😂
And he'll do it with a beer in his left hand
if we build a border wall then who is going to do the labour? Sure isnt going to be this generation
Lol, those guys are monkeys!
It’s always green
Your little sister called, says she wants her clothes back.
😂😂
That’s assuming that each 16” on center stud was perfectly placed! This method you pretty much guarantee that the cut matches the spacing! Love it!
Doesn’t matter what the measurement is…you’re doing it in the corners…and even if your doing it otherwise if ya hold just off flush and do that trick it will work perfectly. Is a really good trick to learn! 👍🏻
This would not pass in Ireland, you'd be smacked hard if you did that on your first attempt
You didn't understood what he said, it doesn't matter the spacing of the studs
A chop saw with a stop is much better. You can cut 500 of them in a nice heated shop and bring them to the job site. Saves a ton of time.
If you have a shop and a chop saw with a stop. I slap a jig together and we cut blocking on site as we go with scraps and the most crooked boards. End up with very little waste.
I just make the greenie do it.
Pre cut in the shop is the best.
This guy's method is ok when you only need a few.
But despite that he doesn't know shit about the parts of a saw and really shouldnt say 1-1/2" distance when saws vary a little.
You never precut before taking it to the Job. That's how you end up having to buy new material...
I think you wanted to say ‘miter saw’ (vs chop saw)
I just set up a miter saw with a framing blade, mark the length on fence after your first cut then you can go way faster than any jig and can cut 2-3 at the same time with precision.
I know you don’t frame because framers don’t have miter saws 😂😂😂😂😂😂
@@edwardallen2696 you’re right. General Contractor In a rural area actually, gotta have all the tools and be good at everything because the subs aren’t coming to save you out here😂😂
@@matthewwoody4114 jack of all trades. master of none
@@edwardallen2696 The full quote by Shakespeare is, "A jack of all trades is a master of none, but oftentimes better than a master of one." And I’d bet I’d school you all day any day on more than poetry boy.
@@matthewwoody4114 I don’t do peasant work anymore I build line.
Whenever I come up short I just grab the ol yellow handled board stretcher! Works like a charm every time 👍🏻
It's right next to the blinker fluid..
More accurate at the bottom plate ,
Hes close enough
Either plate, it's the same... If laid out probably, lmao
Never listen to a man who wears skinny jeans tucked into boots on a jobsite.
Good little trick but I always do it from close to the plate so when I nail it helps keep studs straight
The way you are doing the plunge cut makes a nice square cut as well. That should be highlighted about this technique.
Finger on the trigger while touching the blade is a game you can only play 10 times. 😂
😆
A game you can only lose 10 times
Saw has a safety switch by the thumb that has to be pressed before being able to pull the trigger
@@Canadarian Guns have a safety switch too
He's highly suspect. What kind of psychopath hangs their hammer in front when there is a perfectly placed ring at his back?
Non contortionists.
I bet he uses the ring for his nailgun
I use the front leather hammer loop for impacts, tin snips and other random shit
I had one in the front. But that was only for if I couldn’t get to the one in my back. You put it in the back so you can grab your hammer with either hand how ever you are standing.
I'm old school one 4 pouch bag on the right and hammer on the left
I read through the comments already and I think what’s needed to be said has been taken care of. But whatever works for you. If your work is flawless in the end and done in an efficient manner doesn’t always matter how you get there. To each his own.
Fits perfectly as it falls through the gap. 😂 I love his energy.
Right, should have just put it flush
You've never built anything of importance.
@@comcastdavidrI’m not a framer but putting it flush would mean it would not go INTO the space. It would be too long.
I wish i was too long 😭@@frankedgar6694
@frankedgar6694 lol you don't even know what flush is wtf are you even doing here?!
That's a neat trick on how to feel your boots with sawdust.
So here's me at 4:30am going to the shop and pulling a tape on blade to guard distance on my Skilsaw... Man, I learn something new EVERY DAY on the internet!
I've always framed with a chopsaw on sight, its the 'diva' thing to do but i prefer quicker, cleaner cuts
90% of the time you're just making things more accurate than they need to be and spending more time to do the same cut
@jisezer what if he was building your house? You want crooked ass cuts and joints that don't meet up right? Or you want it right?. Now saying that, it can also be done right with a circular saw if you know what your doing and your good. But in my experience if you use a circular saw on the job site like in this video you are opening yourself for a potential dangerous problem. Like saw kickback and lose a finger or worse. Chop saw can eliminate most of that.. but it does burn up a little more time. Especially on bigger jobsites
@@jisezer cutting a hip on a chop saw is much easier for the average person. The chop saw isnt the only saw used either its just for precision cuts mainly, especially rafters.
Thats insane bro no one does that on large scale jobs. Womdrive cut off the stack dont stop the saw keep running it
@@ACLz28 no, as a contractor I can say I definitely DON'T want him building my house. Studs are cut to 1/16 of an inch tolerance. If you can't use a Skil saw to cut studs, welp don't be a framer
"Set it almost flush" so....guess.
Anything under a half inch is “almost flush” 😂
Yeah, that's pretty much how everything but finish work is.
Yeah. . And hold it kind of square. .
My dude if you can't feel almost flush with your finger you need a different hobby, and maybe an MRI. There's no guessing involved. It's not rocket science
@@nimnogaparus MRI 😂
Well hey…..for people that don’t do this everyday, he sure taught me a trick and I appreciate it!
Regardless of what you pointed at or the keelee gap you had, the method you used is quick accurate and efficiant if you didn't leave it a little off flush. Great tip
The other nice thing about this is you can cut your specials in place
the same way. Or cut for 24" O.C. or anything else.
Efficient* and thorough of which you seem not to be.
That or you could have a chopsaw set up and just cut em with a stop set in place because they shoild all be the same measurement anyway
With today’s lumber that’s not for sure. A stud that’s an 1 3/8 or 1 5/8 and that’ll mess your blocking up real quick
@@AidanSmitfishing yeah man, it's hard to get decent lumber without going through every piece. Even getting orders from specialty suppliers has been a shit show.
Only if the base framing is uniform, which it probably isn't. If this guy did it
Who the fuck uses a chop saw for framing? Sounds like a homeowner life hack
@@devonfuginowskinstien7500 maybe he's thinking miter saw. Which would work in the same manner and probably more accurate.
He is learning too so let him get more experience
We got rookie of the year over here, thinking that he’s teaching us something
He thanks you for your vote😂
R.O.Y. 😂😂😂
U would be suprised how many guys on the site do not know this
Know what, how to incorrectly cut blocks?
Framing square at the horses, standing up sraight not all hunched over cutting all commons 14 3/8. Mass produce. Good saw man will have a stock pile of all common cut parts waiting for the what we use to call " Nail drivers" to install. Don't know what they call themselves now cause nobody drives nails anymore. 😂😂😂😂
Show us how to do it then with your own video champ.
Bro that chalk made me worried for his hands for a second i thought he was that cold😂
"Don't let the Mexicans see you cry" 😂. Best line ever
Nice trick but I got a Makita cordless, the edge of the shoe is an 1 1/4” from the blade 🤷🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️And for everyone trying to correct your term usage..it’s actually called the saw’s “shoe”! Not guard, fence, or table. Go look it up!!
Awe man I was so close, I’ve been calling it a ‘foot’ for so long 😂
@@kerrybarneyiii1202 lol. I always called it the bench, or the fence. Incorrectly..
Or you could set up a stop on your chop saw and cut them all at 14 and 3/8 or 22 and 3/8
That's what I do...because in the end 16 on center regardless of warped studs gotta be put in place even with cats/cripples or "shoe blocks"
No framer uses a chop saw
@@ianholmquist8492 lol, ya ok. Maybe no blow and go track home housing development framers do.. And it shows in the quality
@ianholmquist8492 working with timbers you do and beam Saws
@@travisdoe4663actually I broke out a chop saw on the drive site cordless to cut up blocks on track homes and it made a hell of a difference
Preparation favors the victorious
If the framing is on 16” centers, cut your blocks @ 14 3/8” . They fit every time.
You mean 14 and 6 little lines right? 😂
I always use 7/16 but you're absolutely right. Call out the specials to the cut man on the ball he already had those ready to
Not to mention the fact that you can't measure blocks at the midspan blocking line they have to be measured at the plate unless every piece of material is perfect
Ah. You can smell the experience on this guy. Hired!
@@DamnDirtyIrish I know right? 😂
You need to go to the bottom. That's where the accurate measurements at so it'll stay square
The bottom plate? I agree
He was like a foot up from the bottom. That's not guna make enough of a difference to matter unless you're framing with pretzels
Yep bottom plate where the layout is. @@anthonymorales842
Every circ saw manufacturer has a different distance between the end of the shoe-plate and the blade.
I have one that's 1 1/4" and another that 1.5 and a left hand one that's 1 1/8th. Idk why he thinks they're all 1.5. 😅
Some are even 1 5/8”
I like that. I’m an old framer and years ago I learned these youngsters do come up with some great new ideas. Never stop learning
Anything to do with the deck of your saw, only applies when the saw is new. As soon as the saw is dropped or someone loads something on top of your saw. The deck of the saw is usually bent or manipulate somehow. Always watch the blade when you cut a board. Your cut will always be on your mark when watching the blade, as a posed to using the deck as your guide.
Both were short
I wouldn't even go to work in that weather
It ain't raining man!
@@JasonLuther1 too cold for me!
Or the grocery store, because you would be broke
@@ICT_Anton I keep a lion lifestyle. Hang out and wait on the best customer. Of course doubg this allows me to help the less fortunate also
This little short started off good, and then it just kind of flailed into the wind
Not moms skinny jeans tucked into the boots 😂
Thats why its called rough framing.
Exactly, thank you sr
That gap was big enough to do a cartwheel in
Lemme know when you’ve successfully done your cartwheel in that gap then… and send a link to the vid as well👀
“Fit perfectly
Rattles and falls to the floor
@jimmywatts8219 that's the perfect fit. You don't know what you're doing so you shouldn't even be commenting
@@chrislull670you reported my comment you coward.
@@chrislull670 NO YOU
I’ve used different saws and they measured different depths from the footplate edge. Good tip though.
I’d probably use a chop saw if I have to do a bunch. Or make a jig.
Old school. Been doing that blocking cut for 55 years. good to see youngsters doing this on CZcams 😊
That's the table, not the guard. Every framer needs to know this.
PS: both blocks you cut were too short.
No first one was fine
First one was perfectly fine, if you want it more snug then put it flush instead of almost-flush like he did.
First block was legit , common bro
im with you they were both too short. first one you might be able to let go and nail it but if you had a whole wall of those. all your studs would be sucking in
@@toxicated3622 no they won't
Don’t do it mid-span, this needs to be done close to the bottom or top of the wall because of potential bowed studs
Oh framers. The drywallers of the Carpentry world
A lot of us know the distance between 1.5 stock at 16 o/c just saying plus “hey junior I need more blocks “work good too
The second technique is the way I learned back in the early 80's. We had no gaps. He had gaps on both cuts. There's no substitute for skill and experience.
That little gap means nothing. If you think it does you're an armchair framer
@chrislull670 lol, I've been framing for over 40 years kid, if you can't fit a simple block properly, you lack the skills to build anything else. That's the problem with with so many people, no pride in their work. No one will remember how fast you build, they will always remember how nice or shitty you build. Don't be a hack.
With every video of yours I become more and more convinced you are well on your way to a job at Home Depot
All Good and we'll, until your wall has a ¾ inch bow and it's already sheathed. Just wait until it's sheathed and bang em in. A good framer
should be able to do that in a timely fashion.
First gap looked identical to the seconds ones gap. 🤣
This is why you read every page of the manuals that come with tools. Never assume you know everything, you will only miss out on advancements in tool design.
Framing for 6 months... knows everything.... The alternative way to do this is put down the camera and get your ass back to work!
Amen brother
Been doing it for longer than he has been alive and I learned something here tonight!! Pretty slick man
Trim Carpenter: "That's cute"...
Looks like your idea of "perfect" and most of ours is miles apart! You STILL had a 1/4" gap on your block. That is because you aren't allowing for the width of the blade, and pulling 1/8" from flush on the stud edge! WHY would you not perfect your "method" before "teaching" us the improper way?!?
Right
Dude sounds like every other manager I've had to ignore.
Not saying the tip's bad, but the attitudes are strikingly similar.
I didn’t know “gapping” was a word. 🤣. Good tip thought thanks for the video
He so excited bout his new framing job cool energy
I love your pro tip that’s on point, but why do you have a Hurley shirt on? In middle of snow?
We call them nogs we do 2 rows everywhere. But once the frames are standing. Makes everything easier.
Bridging pieces, 356 mm strong . 44mm thick stud. 400mm c/c
This is so funny how all these guys go on CZcams and they talk about this and talk about that, but I’ve never met one contractor in my life that was honest and good and actually really knew what they are doing
Looks like Smurfette had a good time.
Damn, you just saved me a lot of work.
Thx!
"So you either need to measure em, or in my opinion, you need to do..." fucking hurley shirt. 😂
My guy stole my trick 😤
Nah, jskidd'n 😆 good info braddah
👏 well done bruhv 👏
I don't miss framing. But you're doing it correct
The only thing I'm interested in is where did you get those boots?
Nice, thanks for the tip definitely going to use this
That's a good trick thank you by the way how do you like that DeWalt Worm Drive
Been framing for 2 years now never thought about this
Thanks for the tip!
Good tip would take some practice to perfect but i use it alot
Your first one was hella short. 😂
You can't get through the day with THOSE BOOTS 😅 TENNY SHOES BRO BE NIMBLE
Fun walking around with boots full of sawdust all day. Be hard to resist dropping nails in them every time those floppy shit catchers went by.
Perfect is a strong word for that fit
Good tip. I always go 14 3/8+" on 16"oc they always grow and push. I had to have the flexvolt worm drive but im lefty and felt more comfortable using the old flexvolf circ. We used to sheath them then stand them. Pull 16's when nailing and make sure it's dead square in form
"Framing Perfect" vs Perfect.
When was this guy 40 years ago when we figured that out? Production framing baby, Arizona framers are the best!!!
The almost flush sounds key. What range of sizes are the up rights?
Old school here, Framed custom homes in north dallas, In the early 80's.
We completely removed the safeties on our saws, and so did every crew I ever worked with,(4).
Nobody ever got so much as a nick.
I am aware this wouldn't fly these days... We also wired The safety back on our nail guns, People have a tendency to bounce the gun, When the safety is operating.
Plus.. People will walk around with their finger on the trigger, Rellying on the safety to fire the nail, Not a good thing if you Accidentally Stumble ,and bump some thing, A nail will shoot and hit somebody.
I remember a story in the news, From dallas, A man was walking the joist, On the incomplete second floor, When when he stumbled, The safety on the nail gun fired a nail, It ricochet and centered a man's head, Doctor said if it wasn't exactly centered like it was, It would have killed him instantly.
They showed the x-ray in the news, The nail was completely flush, The man finished the day at work, Complained of a headache.
I have never heard even one story of anybody on framing job getting hit with an errant nail, With the safety's pinned back.
It also makes it much easier to toenail a windbrace, When setting walls.
Nice tip,
Thanks for the help.
I've never seen this trick, I think it should be explained though you should measure near the top or bottom, that way your blocks are going to be accurate to how big the space should be. If you measure in the middle, your studs could be bowed and you might be cutting a 14" block or whatever.
I just woke up....saw your video...and learned something new!! Have a Great Day!!
THAT Sir, is a very helpful hint
Question.
If the distance between the verticals is consistent, why can't you measure and precut the horizontals?
I subscribed because of hacks and tricks like this, please keep them coming
cool, but dont you also need to account for the blade width as well?
Great pointer. Learned that from an old school carpenter years ago.
My only thing is i want my blocks exactly 14 1/2 or 22 1/2 to pull my stud straight.
Great tip I never knew that . Thank you
I did not know that about the rear handle 👍
Can't wait to try this!
Hell yeah what a genius thank you Brutha stay blessed & happy new year
Hey bro be shopping at Costco we all know that sweater 😂
The guy really wore low rise skinny jeans to a construction job
Excellent tip! Thanks guy!
Nicely done, brother! 🎉
thought that blue chalk on his fingers was frostbite like bro GET INSIDE!
Close, but you need to hold wood up at plate to ensure proper length (studs are not perfectly straight)