Amazon Cars: Gearbox tops & overdrives
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- čas přidán 27. 02. 2020
- We have seen 4 M41 overdrive cars without an inhibit switch, in just 2 months! This is bad news for the owner, with a probable £1000+ bill when the OD fails.
I'm a bit dour in this video, my apologies: I've lost my stash of Dzus fasteners, and can't find them, hence the bad mood!
P1800, Amazon, 140 & 164 - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Howdy, sir. I’m from Texas (3rd gen. both sides) and your comment about “getting bit where you sit” is a new one for me! However, I don’t doubt the veracity at all and was entertained in hearing it. I’m currently in Seattle, but here’s another old Texan adage for you: “You can take the man outta Texas, but you can’t take Texas out of the man!” Haha. Just found you, will check out more of your vids, good job and thanks. BTW: I have owned 3 122s, 1 with M41, seriously considering a 4th, a ‘64 2door ,B20, P1800 M41, other goodies. Did without for years, now am seriously re-infected w Amazon-itis! Adios, pardner!
Not sure if this is the right place to ask, but, we have a J Type overdrive in our car, and it has a fully functioning inhibitor switch only allowing it to work in 3rd and 4th. However our overdrive unit is making a terrible screeching noise when engaged
..but it is working, the revs drop and it isn't free wheeling or slipping, overdrive is properly engaged, it's just creating this incredibly loud screech/squeal
When overdrive is off, there's no noise, when it's on, it starts to scream just as the revs drop down. It keeps making the noise the whole time in overdrive, when on power or on overrun
We've only let it make the noise for a few seconds before disengaging again, and only a couple times, as it seems very likely damage is being done when in overdrive with that noise
We have checked the oil, but it seems to be at the correct level already, and there's no metal shavings or anything to be seen.
Do you have any idea what coild be causing the noise?
To our knowledge, the inhibitor switch has always worked, and it has never been used in reverse, first, or second
We have been a bit worried by reading theLaylock J Type manual, where we found it says that overdrive should be engaged with the clutch up, and with throttle being applied. Meanwhile we've been treating overdrive like another gear, pushing the clutch in and letting of the throttle, switching it on, then lifting the clutch and resuming a few seconds later.
We had thought this would be saving the overdrive a bit, maybe putting less stress through it? But now worried we've been doing the exact opposite..
This explains a lot! thank you very much!!!
Great video. Thanks.
top video and explanation, as always
Thankyou - I almost didn't bother recording, but then thought it might be of interest!
@@amazoncars I just subscribed a week ago and haven't seen a video on your channel that isn't interesting of helpfull. (owned a 164 '70 before and now a 144 '73)
The devil is in the details with classics, and proper mechanical rebuilds, so keep it up! Sharing knowledge is the way to go in keeping these beauty's on the road rolling.
@@tiggerable Thankyou so much, our purpose is to leave a legacy when we've retired!
Brilliant video. Wish I was nearer to you. I’d be asking for your help with my Amazon
My Amazon has an overdive, installed by a previous owner but I wasn't aware about the fragility of the unit in the higher torque gears (or worse, in reverse). So, thank you for alerting us! Not at home at the moment (sailing again) but I thought that my overdrive inhibitor allowed selection in 3rd and 4th, but not the lower gears. Does that make sence to you?
What a very nice video, thank you.
My 1963 122S has a M41/Type D OD fitted by the previous owner about 10 years ago. Unfortunately the OD inhibitor switch has not been fitted, so it would work on all 5 gears. I have the OD switch (it came with the motor car).
The previous owner told me that he intended to fit the switch but tapped it for the wrong thread (it is tapped for 5/8" UNC). He thought the switch was probably a M16, but was not sure. Fitting the inhibitor switch is on my list of things to do - and does not look difficult (thank you for the video). May I ask what size the hole for the switch should be tapped to? Alternatively would a new or already modified top cover be available that I could have ready to screw on?
Alan
What is the best way to shift into and out of overdrive on a J-type unit? Is it helpful to depress the clutch momentarily to take the load off the transmission components when either engaging or disengaging the OD?
Personally I do like to treat the overdrive as a gear, and use the clutch: purely the desire to reduce stress on the expensive bit (od).
Also, J's are a more positive action and tend to jar the car a bit.
D's, unless updated, tend to be a soft dis/engagement.
Another great segment. It's like a video version of the green books, but with better detail and more insight! I Have an interesting thing happening with the J type overdrive in my Amazon. It goes in and out on its own with no electrical input whatsoever. I've even disconnected the power lead to the solenoid. Have you seen this before? Thanks!
Rob, that rings a bell, but I cant recall the reason. Try emailing Dave at UK company "Overdrive Spares", he's seen it all!
Rob
Hi! Do you have an M41 transmission or the shaft to convert m40 to m41
Hi! I just heard about few things about m40 and m41 from a friend, now i am here... Is there possible to get that m41 shaft only? If you can tell me info about it, i would be really glad to have it! or where to get it!? Thnx :)
dont know if its the right place to comment this but i have a question, my overdrive is not engaging anymore worked fine before the light still comes on when the lever is put down but i cant notice the overdrive working, when i changed the oil in the gearbox i noticed a good amount of metal bits when pulled the overdrive filter but it worked fine. it does leak oil from the front seal my actual question is this could this be a oil level issue (i havent yet checked the oil level but i have put 300 km on it since oil change and it only leaks a small bit after its driven for a while not when cold ) or is some internal part of the od finally gone?
Raoul, first task is to check the electrics: when the light is on, is there 12v at the solenoid (there's a connector close to the solenoid itself that you can put your voltmeter on)?
Yes: switch the OD off & on, can you hear the solenoid clunking across? If yes, then check the oil level, if good then the OD probably needs a rebuild.
No: then (pleasingly) it's just an electrical failure: the switch; the relay; or the inhibit switch.
Email me if you want more detail: volvo@amazoncars.co.uk
Rob
If this was a dour video, I love it! Your ability to concisely relay good information makes it delightful none-the-less. What is the cost for rebuilding the gearbox top? I don't know of anyone performing this service in the U.S.
Thanks Ben, it's 130GBP for an exchange top, we've sent a couple across to the States, but the tops are becoming hard to find now, so we insist on the exchange part.
Rob
Hello, i am born, raised and live in Volvo country, Sweden that is. Sorry about my poor english but maybe you can explain something to me? I have a Ford Transit Camper (mark 1)Where the engine is replaced by an B20 with the M40 gearbox with the electric overdrive (with the button on the gearstick). That engine is about the Only engine that will fit inside the Transit enginecompartment. My overdrive has resently begun getting out of gear and go in and out of 4th and overdrive gears all the time. Do you have any ideas about that problem? From what i understand Both gearboxes share the same oil, can this be an issue?
Thomas,
Is it a D-Type overdrive? email me a photo of the underside if you're unsure.
Use 20/50 engine oil, filling to the M41 level plug (which as you say then flows into the OD).
Very specifically, the overdrive should only operate in 4th gear, so it sounds like you need to fit an inhibit switch to the M41 gearbox top.
Also, on the topic of M40(non overdrive) and M41(overdrive) gearboxes: it can happen that someone uses an M40 casing to create an M41. This is fine, as long as the upper of the two filler bosses has been tapped and plugged: the M40 has a lower oil level, the M41 used the higher oil level.
Rob