One thing to remember is that the more power the vehicle has from the start, the more power is going to be gained, a 5% increase in HP on a 140 hp motor only 6-7 hp but on a 450 hp 23-24. Also, for the viewer that stated how the CAI would mess up the fuel ratio due to more air, its not necessarily more air that makes people put in the CAI, its that if you get proper separation and can suck up cold air, that air will be denser theu your car will have better combustion.Thats why your car seems faster in the cold weather, especially turbos
I noticed this problem too. I removed the box, attached heat sheilding tape to the backside, paying special attention to gaped areas...problem solved. It also helps if you cut the padded insulator on the hood to fit perfectly around the rubber on the box. This seals the area really nice. You should also install a 180° thermostat just for good measure. I live in texas.
The problem with the focus and other compact cars is that there isn't enough separation between the intake and the engine. In a larger truck, I've found that these intakes perform better.
Yes. Most people don’t realize that all cars come with a cold air intake. The aftermarket ones become heat soaked pretty quickly. Just changing out the filter works the best. Great Job.
It's refreshing to see someone admit their mistakes. A little advice though: I've never seen a K&N, or any brand filter for that matter, make a NOTICEABLE difference to power in anything but an extremely high-performance engine. If there is an increase (and that's a big if) it's usually just such a small amount, it's basically within a margin of error and certainly not noticeable. The other thing to keep in mind with these kind of filters, when they are tested on dynos, they are always new filters. These kind of oiled filters tend to degrade quickly over time as particles get caught up in the oil. This is, of course, what they are meant to do, but it also means you need to clean them frequently to have any hope of maintaining even that tiny performance improvement. With this in mind, I highly recommend getting a non-oiled air filter from either the manufacturer or, if you really want aftermarket, someone like Wix, which has been shown by independent testing to offer that balance of awesome filtering (which is why we need an air filter) with decent air-flow.
I have a K&N on my 2016 Frontier Desert Runner and it helps mpg/hp little and the truck runs smoother but also have performance exhaust system to work with it so that maybe why
When you mess with the intake doing a mod you may have to cold start the car and run it for 15 mins or so on idle without reving. This allows the CPU to recognize the mod then take it for a short 5 min drive and park it up to cool down a bit then go from there. Diffrent cars will vary in this process but it may be similar?. The idea is that the CPU re-learns its self and programs to the new paramiters. I would think that a basic inlet mod or exhaust mod could be corrected this way or similar. Any larger mod may need professional programing.
I recommend cleaning and re oiling your air filter at the interval your auto manufacturer instructs you to check your air filter. I have always done it every oil change(5000 miles). I ran k&n for 175K in a Tundra and 170K in my wife's Highlander.
I really like your point about the standard Cold Air Intake filter and the engine heat. It's logical and makes clear sense, and putting in just an upgraded version of the same filter type for your car I'd ALSO SECOND as a high recommendation. I put a K&N Filter that was the same size as the OEM on my old 2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L Vortec and noticed a significant difference in throttle response. I had also replaced the MAF sensor shortly after due to the grease and all from the filter and also then noticed more improvement. Even the filter by itself made a big improvement in engine performance. Understandably, this may not work for all cars but is definitely worth a shot.
You will get what they call a "can tuned" if you install a CAI without a tune.....but if youre adding mods that means you obviously wanna make more power so thats why a tune is vital if you wanna MAXIMIZE your gains.
To everyone that says it's a waste.., I dynod my 2013 focus SE 5 speed after I got it. Pulled 152 bone stock (sport suspension from factory is only upgrade on the car). I put in a K&N intake just like the one mentioned, I was then pulling 168. I got a 2.5"catback custom system from a shop local in salem, OR. (Used pieces from a Borla setup) sadly did not get to dyno with just those two upgrades. Finally got a tune from Tom (focusfinatics helped me find it) After everything was turned it then pulled 173 on the dyno. It's not a "30hp" gain like some people say, (maybe with a larger throttle body idk) but it is very noticeable. Hope this helps some of you looking for mods out there. (Spent about $1,1,80 total on all mods after a mail in rebate)
No way this power gain of 16 bhp is real. There are Pub figures and wet dreams......... and there is reality. Yes 2 healthy cars can vary by 3-5 Bhp and if running same map and settings it is that close. A better Exhaust can help breathing so can filters but valve size inlet tracts injector size flow rate dwell timing and a rising rate fuel pressure regulater all contribute. but there is a maximum a stock engine can produce by its design. If you change more items on the engine that scope for more tuning increases and so on, every tuned engine has bottlenecks by its design no magic maps can circumvent physical limitations. I dont wish to debate this fact of engineering. people can believe what they wish to believe. I once tuned an rs turbo escort in the 90s Many times in the process did I reach bottlenecks. and until that was removed power would not increase. all mods need to work in harmony a new intercooler painted black helps a heavily modded car massively but on stock very little difference. I used pub figures once too 25 -30 yrs ago. At 54 yrs old I now only deal with reality. My current car An RCZ R runs 270 + BHP 1.6L stock engine, exhaust, and filter plugs etc. its designed to run that. My Rs turbo also a 1.6L took 2 yrs and £4500-£5000 in mods back in the 90s to reach 260 bhp.
K&N filters give tiny increases in power and torque. What they do generate a lot more of, is fuel efficiency. By running a cleaner through my FJ cruiser gas line and engine, then adding a K&N filter I've gained about 80 - 100km from when I first purchased the vehicle used from a dealership.
Ann Onymous Give me proof. I’m assuming you didn’t get the engine re-tuned or you didn’t put an aftermarket chip in it. So that air intake just turned into a expensive air filter
I put a K&N in the stock box in a Focus SVT. Works really well. Heat under the hood in these things is a big problem. My wife and I both have them and the heat cooks sensors. With these cars it becomes an effort to get airflow into the engine compartment to reduce the heat.
cold air intakes work with forced induction engines (turbos and superchargers) don't expect a Ford Focus became a Fast and Furious version only installing a K&N intake man!
I used to work for K&N, there is no way they told you that you need dyno numbers. Plus, if you bought it from Amazon you should have called them first.
Thanks for doing the video, really good feed back. I guess the KNN short ram intake will work differently from car to car. I’ve had one in my 2019 Civic 1.5T for about a year in the Northeast and I did not get a drop in performance in hot summer days. I love the sound and noticed throttle and mpg difference. Plus clocked a 3 tenth of a second quicker time to 60 MPH.
I bought a k&n intake for my 10 Chrysler 3.6 gained power and car been doing very well for about 3 years through all seasons now plus i travel in it ..
About 15 years ago, a BMW race car engine rebuilder and BMW race car driver told me the same thing. Don't put an air intake system on. It's worse than the factory setup. Drop a K&N filter into the stock air box instead, and I have been doing it ever since.
I put an airaid “cold air intake” on my truck. After about a year I decided to put the stock air box back on with an k&n drop in filter and I left the airaid intake tube in place of the stock intake tube. I did a 0-60 before removing the cold air intake and after reinstalling the factory air box and there was less than half a second of difference in the 0-60 times between the two. So I left the airaid intake tube on in place of the factory tube, left the factory air box with the k&n air filter and sold the “cold air intake”. I now have an aem Filter instead so I don’t have to worry about oiling the filter like the k&n.
If you run around at 6,000 rpm you might feel some difference. normal driving NO. KN users rarely ever clean their filters. KN/ other reuseable cold air filter systems are designed to separate a fool from his money.
Hi, Fuel Trims on an ecu are responsible for compensating for the extra air that comes into the engine i.e the air fuel ratio will automatically be corrected by adding more fuel to achieve 14.7:1 in closed loop control
Well. It works darn good on my 04 Sierra 4x4. ! Sounds great. Lots of pickup when you stand on it. But the 6.0 L Is notorious for its lack of mpg! I get 12.2 average now. Got 10.8 before. So if mileage is your concern. That’s what you should expect!
To get the best out of a Intake, you need to pair it with a high flow downpipe, and a 70mm+ stainless Steel exhaust. And of course a tune, so the car takes proper advantage of the mods. An Intake just by itself is basically just a sound mod
I had BMC which worked only for 10k km and couple of years even with oiling at recommended intervals. Now, no matter what I do it's not giving me the same performance as it was new. My car feel sluggish at lower gears and screams in high rev in a bad way. Moved to stock and the engine feels super smooth.
You must modify the exhaust to get some hp gain with the CAI or SRI. Ok another question. Where is the cooler air coming from when the air filter is exposed to the heat coming from the engine? No one has answered that question yet and I don’t think no one ever will answer it. The best thing to do is modify your stock air box to get cooler air if you can. I did it on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. I took out the tubes and cut the barrier out. The box is right behind the left headlight and it gets plenty of air.
I regularly see issues with intakes on customer cars. Here's just a few. 1: silicon content in the oil is much higher in cars with k&n style filters. I have sent out oil for testing to verify this. This means substantial wear on internal engine parts. 2: fuel trim issues on cars with Maf sensors. This is very common when the intake tube is changed, due to different diameter or bends of the tube. It can cause a lean or rich condition witch can cause power loss, wear, fuel mileage problems. 3: Gains HP in high rpms, lost torque in low or mid-range rpms. So you basically take away the acceleration you want in a daily driven street car. 4: Wasted money because there is no difference besides the noise. Even if you "tune" your car for the intake, there is usually no noticable power gains. The power increase comes from the software and would have done the same without the intake. An intake should honestly be the last thing you upgrade, because most OEM intakes are capable of more flow than your car needs. Start looking into an intake upgrade when you make a large change, like a turbo, supercharger, etc. And never believe the dyno from the company that sells the part. I have personally dyno tuned many cars, and they usually make the same power or minimally more (1-5hp) but will almost always loose more torque down low and make your car slower.
@@daevid21 if you can achieve 30 hp with an intake exhaust and tune, you can most likely achieve those same numbers with just a software tune and catalytic converter delete. Catback exhaust is useless, just makes noise, And intakes are useless and just make noise. Unless you have some serious power mods like a turbo or supercharger, you will not have anything to gain from full exhaust or an intake. A 1xx hp focus does not stand to gain anything from and intake or exhaust. A tune? Sure, you can pick up a little bit.
@@Josh-py2in Theres usually no power gain from intake and tune?? Well thats wrong, but im too lazy to show how stupid you sound saying that. Ktuner or Hondata Tune and a Intake with a Civic will have massive gains. Speaking from experience. And 2-8hp gain from intake and depending on motor.
@@Rob_Nasty gains from a tune, YES. Gains from an intake, nothing or minimal on most cars. Even when you do gain hp from an intake, it's way up in the rpm range and it will usually loose torque in the mid to low RPMs. I actually dyno tune cars using Winols and mpps. Intakes are litterally the biggest waste of money in the car world. Everyone in a Honda adds an intake and suddenly think they gained a lot. In reality, on a dyno, they gain maybe 5 hp at 6500-7200 rpms and they loose what little torque they have at 4000-5000 they loose a substantial amount. You want real power, water/methanol injection with a tune, or e85 with a tune, nitrous with a tune. An intake is wasted money and just makes noise 90% of the time. Tunes make power, intakes just support power. Until you learn that, you will forever be in a slow car.
@@Josh-py2in I run turbo so low end torque is amazing for me. But yes now were talking!! High rpm gains exist with intake and or tune, for every car the scenario is different though. But theres no doubt intakes work. PRL has their dyno show mod by mod dyno'd numbers, and the increase is real, even if its minimal. And yes there is other massive gains out there. But those gains people never go for inless their a real car enthusiast.
Install a brand/unit with a housing (not an open shield) for the filter and also one that connects to the original air ram. The car's air ram sucks in cold air from the outside and farther away from the engine block. MST, AEM are some of the manufacturers that includes an air box (not shield) and retains the original air ram of the vehicle. Also, replace your cat back exhaust with larger piping to optimize your exhaust system with 5-15 hp gain at around 5000 rpm, which is good for merging and overtaking maneuvers.
From experience,it's much cheaper in the long run to just buy the drop in filter from K&N and add a catback when your OEM exhaust need replacing.I just got rid of a cold air intake in fear of it sucking in water in heavy rain because part of the fender splash shield is broken off, exposing the filter.
For my truck I got an Air Raid Intake system and kept the stock air box and got a drop in AEM dry air filter, no problem with hot engine air coming in with a bit better power and fuel economy, and the truck doesn't stall anymore.
You will get heat soak either way, the sheet metal baffle isn't to prevent heat soak, it's supposed to slow airflow from all areas except the oem pathway through the fender or front grill. Good outside airflow will negate the engine bay heat so maybe it's that the shape of the baffle didn't seal well. Also when you take off the oe air box you detuned the wide band nature of the intake and turned it into a narrow band WOT peaking unit at best.
Wild. I got mine and dropped it in, when it was hot out, noticed mild gains ish, and much better noise. But on dyno, got 6.1whp more than stock at top end, but even down low at 3000ish rpms, still 2whp higher,
I have one installed on my truck with an aftermarket exhaust. I see power improvement and mpg gain. Not by much, i noticed 2mpg gain. I installed it over the summer with average temp of 80-90 degrees. It didnt hurt my truck
No you don't. You think you do because that's what you expected to see. But no you don't. It doesn't change the computer programming. And before you get all in a huff and your panties in a twist, I also have an intake and exhaust on my truck. Runs exactly the same, no performance or gas mileage increases. Sounds nice but nothing else.
King Daniel maybe it doesn’t increase power and mpg in every application but people have ran dyno tests before and after there is a video from JEGS on CZcams they gained 14 hp on a Chevy 5.3. Plus a lot of people notice gains. But I guess they aren’t as smart as you and they’re probably all full of shit.
Okay, let me explain this one more time since you're obviously slow. Everything is run by computers, the air/fuel ratio, injection rate, spark, everything. Bolting something on does not change the computer programming, thus you gain NOTHING. There is no power or performance increase unless there are changes to the computer parameters that control those functions. I don't care about some bs marketing video you've seen about a product someone is trying to sell you. Any gains are hypothetical, and implied at best, unless you get ALL the equipment to facilitate those changes i.e. a programmer.
K&N’s DO offer slightly more horsepower over a standard paper filter. If you still want the cold air intake noise that you got from the K&N, then you need to get a performance air filter that is already housed within a heat shield enclosure. I used to have the same Focus and I put a performance air filter (like K&N) in mine and it was enclosed in a carbon fiber shield and it worked great! Smoother and more peppy acceleration and it sounded great and heatsoak wasn’t a problem! You won’t get any of the intake sound from a panel filter...K&N or not...trust me! Part of that noise is caused from the filter sucking the air in. The panel filter gets enclosed in the air box and so it deadens the sound. 👍🏼
So if I add a cold air intake, do I need the shields around to keep the heat out? Is it mandatory? Because it’s cheaper without it but will it still make a louder sound even with hotter air than normal?
From what I've read and heard, the "Cold" Air Intakes are for hotrods, and if you don't work up the rest of the engine, it won't do anything. If the sound changes, there is definitely a change in the airflow however, 'cuz duh... Yes, thanks for the trial. I think I will skip putting one in my Suburban unless I need to replace the catastrophic converter(!) 😯 (At that point, I would put low restriction exhaust in.) Every Dyno Test I've ever seen showing improvement for any cold air intake has been paid for one way or another by the manufacturer, but I don't get out much. 😝
What you did is the same as I did. The K&N filter does it all. Me like you didn't reallly like the cold air system by K&N and I saw a power loss to the engine. Left it on and tranded trucks. After I traded, I found out things the the Ford was a bad year and then I was glad I changed trucks. I in the last truck and this new one, I only used the Expensive K&N filter and got the same results that they claim. Works the same as a cold air system. Does the same also.
The standard K&N air filter (non-cold air filter) are great on manual vehicles due to adding a small amount fuel milage….its not meant to add more horse power! I do have a 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco 6 speed and I did gain 4 miles per gal on the fuel economy which is what I was looking for! Just remember….any tine you use new products on your vehicle, always research the product line and the type of vehicle its going into before making a purchase! This will save you time and money and keep you on the road longer.
Unless you get truly cold air, have a piggÿback module for the MAF or ecu tune to adjust the A/F ratio. it's all just looks and noise. You will see some better throttle response but you can get just as much with a throttle body optimization.
Good, honest review. I was thinking about getting a cold air intake for my 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, but after seeing this review I'm going to take a pass on that.
I put this same system in my 2017 Toyota corolla, I live in central Texas where it gets 110 degrees every summer. I saw no difference from any season, the only reason you will be losing power is if your losing air, such as the filter not being tight enough. Sure of course its better to have cold air, but the only consequence of having hot air instead of cold air is loss of fuel economy, but the major factor with that is your driving habits, however as long as everything is tight enough, you should be just fine as far as power goes.
I have that K&N engine air filter in my 09 Camry,2.4L engine and it runs a lot better than it did with the stock air filter. And I don't hear any un-wanted engine ,air intake noise🤔🙂. But then I don't drive a Ford😐....
need the exhaust ( borla ) to balance extra air intake. don"t pay any attention to this man. you need someone that knows more about performance. to get that extra, you need to spend that extra.K&N cold air box,with a true sealed air box. cost about $400. exhaust about $1295. hwy. mpg,went from24 to29+, hp from 280 to 310, yes this made a big improvement. 2004 FORD T-bird 3.9L-V-8
@@John-qt9bi always fun embarrasing v8 mustangs with a 6 speed auto v6 camry grocery getter what makes it all the more satisfying is the camry isa grandma grandpa car the slowstang is a sports car lmao
joe5vee I’m thinking about getting a closed box 37 horsepower or open box 39 horsepower for my 300 horsepower Rallye Dodge Charger v6. Do you think it will help?
Thank God someone else realises this, I was a fool and went k&n and ripped it out about 6 months later - pulling air from inside the engine bay vs stock arrangement that pulls from the inside of the passenger side fender well
extremedrivr Last time I checked. Engines hate pulling in hotter air so putting an air filter near the block would result in power loss. Why do you think filters are in air boxes to begin with? You’re the uneducated one here.
Just changed to a K+ N canister filter. Not the pipe one. On my 2017 Titanium Escape 2.0 turbo 4 cylinder. Makes a big different in sound and a little power gain off the start. Didn't expect the engine to run like a scaled Dog! But for the $60.00 bucks it does what it said. Thinking about a less restricted exhaust system. If the price is right. In stainless! Just for a better sound and look. Shawn
I bought the intake for my 2014 Chrysler 200 2.4 and took it out a week later because it was to loud! I have it 4 sale for $300.00 have everything for it! I'll install it locally!
I have had a K&N cone filter on my 2104 F-150 Tremor 3.5 EcoBoost since it was new. I noticed Gas Milage drop recently, and just today cleaned and re oiled it. I will do the re learn trick also.
Maybe in your stock focus you can't feel anything. But, I have a Mustang GT with a Ford Racing intake manifold, a 24 pounds fuel injectors, MSD ignition coils, headers and, really trust me, the K&N intake really work.
At least this guys gets it in the end. SO many people pay big money for these stupid things that suck up hot air. If you had a turbo or supercharged engine, it makes things even worse. You get detonation, the car pulls ignition timing and you make less HP. For a lousy $10 I took a factory air cleaner box on an 05 IMpala SS, gutted out the baffling then cut a 4" hole in the side with a hole saw,attached a 4"x18" rubber duct hose and ran it through a hole in the fender, sealed any openings with furnace duct tape .The only air coming in is from the outer fender. No engine heat. Depending on the temp that day, you can see a significant drop of air temp on the IAC sensor. Cant imagine what that sensor reads with an open K&N set up that doesnt totally seal out the engine heat. I suppose in a lot of cases, the stock set up beats that K &N shit IF the kit doesnt seal the filter completely.
Thanks for the feedback because I recently installed a K&N air filter on my 2012 Focus SE. I did notice immediately a noticeable VROOM sound and a low end growl. I haven't put it on the DYNO so I don't know exactly how much boost I got from it. I will point out that it never burned rubber before like it does now. Based on what you told me, I will watch out when the weather becomes hot.
I did an AEM drop in dry filter in the factory box and an Air Aid intake tube in my Dakota. No worries about heat soaking with a bump in performance and no more stalling with the factory resonator. 🙂
I would add a thermal tap or wrap on the pipe and the engine side of the shield to add extra isolation from the engine if that happens. On the other hand you should look at a cold air that is a fully inclosed box with a directed inlet for air to really limit the hot air form the engine
The PCM will work around the K&N filter, NOT the other way around. People who say you need to "retune" a vehicle to accept a CAI have obviously never heard of elevation and sea level. K&N sucks in more air, the PCM realizes this and adds more fuel, more air & fuel mixture = more power, plain and simple. As far as MPG's goes, most CAI's actually give you less MPG's due to the air/fuel ratio.
Cowl induction..ie.- 'Poor man's supercharger'..that works! However,not usually. Cowl induction ( when installed as an air tight plenum) only begins to function well over 75 mph. But for long-hual driving on the Super Slab, Oh Yeah!
I think you meant short air ram. True Cold air intake gains on the high end. While short air ram gains on the low. Agreed, that short ram with weather stripping semi enclosures or no enclosure risks hot air engine bay seepage. I recommend short air ram with full enclosure or excellent seals.
Correct, long term & short term fuel trims are adjusted by ecm that gets its data from various sensors one being the mass air flow sensor that sets the fuel mixture to lean or rich depending on the amount of air, temperature, rpms, throttle position, etc. So basically no matter what you do the ecm is going to adjust the fuel mixture back to optimal ratios for emissions, unless theirs a fault or failure. Cold air intake in the same location as the factory air box generally want provide any benefits other than sounding tough. K&N knows that too, but they have a business to maintain along with a lot of other parts sellers. Was different back before the electronic control cars then just flipping the the breath too upside down would let a little more cooler air in & reduce restriction into the carb & sound tough, but those where fixed fuel ratios & you could (sometimes with a little modification) adjust the mixture leaner or richer for better performance.
The only thing K&N that goes in my hood is a high-performance K&N filter with stock intake. It's a lot cheaper, and you do get some power increase going that route as well
@@andrewkjeldergaard9653 and it didn't go through the other filters as much as it did with the K&N Unrealistic test but still same condition for each filter
Put he K&N on my Previous Edge Sport....what a $350 waste of money. All I noticed was that it was extremely loud but with no discernable gain in power . On my new Edge Sport I went with a filter replacement and didnt fall for the hype
The Stock air box in many cars are well engineered and do a great job with the oem filter. Keeping the box and upgrading to a drop in filter would give you a little more sound and save you some money by not having to replace it. Just make sure you clean it regularly. I didn't want to use a cold air intake because of the reasons you mentioned too. Thanks for sharing!
Main question is: Did you have the AC run inside your car while you were driving in the more heated temperature times? Because from what I’ve learned and key word “I’ve” is that when you have a K&N filter in and it’s on hot days you’ll need to run the AC to keep the car cooler. For example if you made a tuner car for drifting(RWD cars). While your drifting you’ll want to have the AC because it’ll “HELP” the car engine stay cooler and not overheat. Again this is from what I’ve learned and my knowledge on cars from being taught,self taught, and still learning more about cars. I mean also you put a cold air intake on a new model car which will also affects the car and it’s warranty’s you have on there or whatever
Kayvon Young - Thank goodness you said that you´re learning. ;-) How in the world imposing more effort in a running engine will make it stay cooler?! You realize the AC is just another power hungry system the engine as to drag along while running... So by all means keep learning. Physics 101 is a good starting point. As of right now you´re surely on the wrong direction. ;-) Cheers
Hey man, I really appreciate the update video, and glad to see you learned something. I wish I had seen this video before I commented on the original video on this subject. However, go ahead and take a look at that comment. It will provide even more insight into why you experienced what you did. Us old farts are already aware of these things, but then again, I've been working on cars for over 35 years, including today's modern cars. I have a 2012 Focus with a stick too, and I LOVE it! Keep up the good work!
The only true cold air intake is the factory air box or any aftermarket filter system that incorporates some sort of sealed air box system. Best thing to do is go with just a K&N drop in filter with the factory air box if your car is also your daily driver. Cheaper and works better without all the heat soak from idling in traffic or risk of hydro locking in heavy rain.
I was reading up on the 3si.org forums for some cold air intake advice from people who own a 3000GT like myself. And so many were suggesting that. It's 200$ for the one I want but it essencially keeps the car stock but also improves upon the effectiveness while also making the car louder! Which is clearly what I want.
FYI...when they test CAI they are in a shop on a dino with the hood open with a big fan blowing on the front on the car but other independent tests have shown CAI don't work and in some cases lower hp and they will increase your air intake temps.
One thing to remember is that the more power the vehicle has from the start, the more power is going to be gained, a 5% increase in HP on a 140 hp motor only 6-7 hp but on a 450 hp 23-24. Also, for the viewer that stated how the CAI would mess up the fuel ratio due to more air, its not necessarily more air that makes people put in the CAI, its that if you get proper separation and can suck up cold air, that air will be denser theu your car will have better combustion.Thats why your car seems faster in the cold weather, especially turbos
you have the best reaction
I have used a K&N standard filter with the factory air box in my BMW’s and Suburban for over 10 years and have been pleased! 😎👍
This guy is a joke...
You know that's the way to go
Yup and if they don’t work they would put one in the demon
I noticed this problem too. I removed the box, attached heat sheilding tape to the backside, paying special attention to gaped areas...problem solved. It also helps if you cut the padded insulator on the hood to fit perfectly around the rubber on the box. This seals the area really nice. You should also install a 180° thermostat just for good measure. I live in texas.
Dustin clark thanks for your observation!
The problem with the focus and other compact cars is that there isn't enough separation between the intake and the engine. In a larger truck, I've found that these intakes perform better.
Yes. Most people don’t realize that all cars come with a cold air intake. The aftermarket ones become heat soaked pretty quickly. Just changing out the filter works the best. Great Job.
It's refreshing to see someone admit their mistakes. A little advice though: I've never seen a K&N, or any brand filter for that matter, make a NOTICEABLE difference to power in anything but an extremely high-performance engine. If there is an increase (and that's a big if) it's usually just such a small amount, it's basically within a margin of error and certainly not noticeable. The other thing to keep in mind with these kind of filters, when they are tested on dynos, they are always new filters. These kind of oiled filters tend to degrade quickly over time as particles get caught up in the oil. This is, of course, what they are meant to do, but it also means you need to clean them frequently to have any hope of maintaining even that tiny performance improvement. With this in mind, I highly recommend getting a non-oiled air filter from either the manufacturer or, if you really want aftermarket, someone like Wix, which has been shown by independent testing to offer that balance of awesome filtering (which is why we need an air filter) with decent air-flow.
You never own one right? Never install one in your one car eh?
I have a K&N on my 2016 Frontier Desert Runner and it helps mpg/hp little and the truck runs smoother but also have performance exhaust system to work with it so that maybe why
Even when clean and oiled k&n filters do not filter.
Wixxp is based
When you mess with the intake doing a mod you may have to cold start the car and run it for 15 mins or so on idle without reving. This allows the CPU to recognize the mod then take it for a short 5 min drive and park it up to cool down a bit then go from there. Diffrent cars will vary in this process but it may be similar?. The idea is that the CPU re-learns its self and programs to the new paramiters. I would think that a basic inlet mod or exhaust mod could be corrected this way or similar. Any larger mod may need professional programing.
Very helpful
You look like you drive a Ford Focus
Rude boy.
@J.R. W So Mister Cool...If you ever get a job, let us know what you drive as a work car?
He looks gay
@@markm8780 how does someone "look" gay
@@markm8780 oh man shut the fuck up. You're clearly not the smartest individual.
Hes a 50 in a 55 type of guy
So scotty was right after all
Praba Garan yes if you like Toyota
Damn!!!! I just got from one of his videos
Scotty is annoying as fuck, but like a broken clock, he is right once in a while.
You dipshits have to have power before you can gain power.
Yeah,..he made sense with every point,,...especially with the fuel/air mixture !!
I recommend cleaning and re oiling your air filter at the interval your auto manufacturer instructs you to check your air filter. I have always done it every oil change(5000 miles). I ran k&n for 175K in a Tundra and 170K in my wife's Highlander.
What did you clean and oil it with?
@@ShredZ23 I used the K&N products
@@michaelmckamey155 ok thanks, I'll look it up and be sure to get that so I can take good care of it.
Your overly loud music at end of video woke up my wife now I'm sleeping on the couch tonight...
I hate it when they do it.
You meant SHE'S on the couch tonight,...because you're a Man.
That’s a law suit! Get a lawyer
@@johnwayne1871 God Bless John Wayne
So,she is the boss,nothing you can do,just like,my story.😀😀😀😀
Have had. a K&N on my Nissan Frontier 4.0 for ten years no problem, and it did give my engine a boost.
I really like your point about the standard Cold Air Intake filter and the engine heat. It's logical and makes clear sense, and putting in just an upgraded version of the same filter type for your car I'd ALSO SECOND as a high recommendation. I put a K&N Filter that was the same size as the OEM on my old 2000 Chevrolet Blazer LT 4x4 4.3L Vortec and noticed a significant difference in throttle response. I had also replaced the MAF sensor shortly after due to the grease and all from the filter and also then noticed more improvement. Even the filter by itself made a big improvement in engine performance. Understandably, this may not work for all cars but is definitely worth a shot.
Racing stripe would have helped more.
a true car guy comment
Lol
😂😂😂
Lmao
For those who think you need to tune it. You actually don’t k&n made that specific air intake to give you horsepower with out a tune.
Are you sure?
@@urbanpeltier1622 At least what they are saying on the website.
@@urbanpeltier1622 yes u dont watch this video czcams.com/video/65g-imgpRSI/video.html
You will get what they call a "can tuned" if you install a CAI without a tune.....but if youre adding mods that means you obviously wanna make more power so thats why a tune is vital if you wanna MAXIMIZE your gains.
To everyone that says it's a waste.., I dynod my 2013 focus SE 5 speed after I got it. Pulled 152 bone stock (sport suspension from factory is only upgrade on the car).
I put in a K&N intake just like the one mentioned, I was then pulling 168.
I got a 2.5"catback custom system from a shop local in salem, OR. (Used pieces from a Borla setup) sadly did not get to dyno with just those two upgrades.
Finally got a tune from Tom (focusfinatics helped me find it)
After everything was turned it then pulled 173 on the dyno.
It's not a "30hp" gain like some people say, (maybe with a larger throttle body idk) but it is very noticeable.
Hope this helps some of you looking for mods out there. (Spent about $1,1,80 total on all mods after a mail in rebate)
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
No way this power gain of 16 bhp is real. There are Pub figures and wet dreams......... and there is reality. Yes 2 healthy cars can vary by 3-5 Bhp and if running same map and settings it is that close. A better Exhaust can help breathing so can filters but valve size inlet tracts injector size flow rate dwell timing and a rising rate fuel pressure regulater all contribute. but there is a maximum a stock engine can produce by its design. If you change more items on the engine that scope for more tuning increases and so on, every tuned engine has bottlenecks by its design no magic maps can circumvent physical limitations. I dont wish to debate this fact of engineering. people can believe what they wish to believe. I once tuned an rs turbo escort in the 90s Many times in the process did I reach bottlenecks. and until that was removed power would not increase. all mods need to work in harmony a new intercooler painted black helps a heavily modded car massively but on stock very little difference. I used pub figures once too 25 -30 yrs ago. At 54 yrs old I now only deal with reality. My current car An RCZ R runs 270 + BHP 1.6L stock engine, exhaust, and filter plugs etc. its designed to run that. My Rs turbo also a 1.6L took 2 yrs and £4500-£5000 in mods back in the 90s to reach 260 bhp.
Lmao my accord 03 makes 160 stock
You got a tune AND a custom borla set up and only gained 5 HP??
@@andrewm.200 152 subtract 173 does NOT = 5. LMFAO. 🤣🤣
K&N filters give tiny increases in power and torque. What they do generate a lot more of, is fuel efficiency. By running a cleaner through my FJ cruiser gas line and engine, then adding a K&N filter I've gained about 80 - 100km from when I first purchased the vehicle used from a dealership.
A k & n drop in will work great. Use them in all my cars. Just dont over oil it.
Just buy the sister filter aem deyflow owned by the same people anyway
Add heat shield to air intake system. you will see different temp. Also I have air intake in my dodge charger just for look and sound.
K&N air filter does improve air flow you can get a mild boost of 5hp in some cases
You'd have some measured evidence of that, to share with us and prove your claim, wouldn't you. Wouldn't you?
It all depends on on the car/engine
@@assininecomment4934 czcams.com/video/GS69owXpGdY/video.html
Austin L it definitely added more than 5 to my sti. Probably closer to 10-15
Ann Onymous Give me proof. I’m assuming you didn’t get the engine re-tuned or you didn’t put an aftermarket chip in it. So that air intake just turned into a expensive air filter
I put a K&N in the stock box in a Focus SVT. Works really well. Heat under the hood in these things is a big problem. My wife and I both have them and the heat cooks sensors. With these cars it becomes an effort to get airflow into the engine compartment to reduce the heat.
Talks about how much he cares about reliability *drives Ford Focus*
Well at least it's not an automatic. That's really the main issue with these cars.
The manuals are very reliable..its the auto or DCT cars that have the issues.
lol first thought
Had mine for a year and i love it
Ford Fucus*
cold air intakes work with forced induction engines (turbos and superchargers) don't expect a Ford Focus became a Fast and Furious version only installing a K&N intake man!
I also just went back to stock after having a Airaid intake for a few years. My car actually lost power with it on.. It now drives so much better.
Turns out the engineers who design the stock intakes do a really good job
Not why install K&N on Shadow next week
The engineers have to follow federal laws that are VERY strict due to smog, etc. Theres a reason after market parts exists.......
Incorrect sir, you could buy a cheap 70$ intake off Amazon and buy a k&n filter it’ll do the same thing a 300$ k&n intake would do.
I used to work for K&N, there is no way they told you that you need dyno numbers. Plus, if you bought it from Amazon you should have called them first.
Need dyno numbers? They provided a sheet with dyno numbers when I bought the kit. Also Amazon was the one that issued me the refund, NOT K&N
You drive a slow ass focus. Period
Thanks for doing the video, really good feed back.
I guess the KNN short ram intake will work differently from car to car. I’ve had one in my 2019 Civic 1.5T for about a year in the Northeast and I did not get a drop in performance in hot summer days. I love the sound and noticed throttle and mpg difference.
Plus clocked a 3 tenth of a second quicker time to 60 MPH.
Stock ?
I'm trying add one to me 2.3rdx
I bought a k&n intake for my 10 Chrysler 3.6 gained power and car been doing very well for about 3 years through all seasons now plus i travel in it ..
There's a thing called Hydro Shield for cold intakes when raining so you don't get water in your motor.
About 15 years ago, a BMW race car engine rebuilder and BMW race car driver told me the same thing. Don't put an air intake system on. It's worse than the factory setup. Drop a K&N filter into the stock air box instead, and I have been doing it ever since.
But he only meant for stock cars right?
U want cold air just live in Alaska
Haha true that
😂
🤧☺. 👍😂
Yeti
Funny you say that i buy my air from alaska ! Definitely notice a difference but beginning to get pricey
I have a K&N 77 cold Air Intake on my Dodge Ram 1500 SLT I just Love it. Best Buy i ever made.
Does it make your car rumble a little bit at idle? Not like crazy rumble but enough to feel it in the steering wheel
I put an airaid “cold air intake” on my truck. After about a year I decided to put the stock air box back on with an k&n drop in filter and I left the airaid intake tube in place of the stock intake tube.
I did a 0-60 before removing the cold air intake and after reinstalling the factory air box and there was less than half a second of difference in the 0-60 times between the two. So I left the airaid intake tube on in place of the factory tube, left the factory air box with the k&n air filter and sold the “cold air intake”.
I now have an aem Filter instead so I don’t have to worry about oiling the filter like the k&n.
If you run around at 6,000 rpm you might feel some difference.
normal driving NO.
KN users rarely ever clean their filters.
KN/ other reuseable cold air filter systems are designed to separate a fool from his money.
Hi, Fuel Trims on an ecu are responsible for compensating for the extra air that comes into the engine i.e the air fuel ratio will automatically be corrected by adding more fuel to achieve 14.7:1 in closed loop control
Well. It works darn good on my 04 Sierra 4x4. ! Sounds great. Lots of pickup when you stand on it. But the 6.0 L
Is notorious for its lack of mpg! I get 12.2 average now. Got 10.8 before. So if mileage is your concern. That’s what you should expect!
To get the best out of a Intake, you need to pair it with a high flow downpipe, and a 70mm+ stainless Steel exhaust. And of course a tune, so the car takes proper advantage of the mods. An Intake just by itself is basically just a sound mod
I had BMC which worked only for 10k km and couple of years even with oiling at recommended intervals. Now, no matter what I do it's not giving me the same performance as it was new. My car feel sluggish at lower gears and screams in high rev in a bad way. Moved to stock and the engine feels super smooth.
You must modify the exhaust to get some hp gain with the CAI or SRI. Ok another question. Where is the cooler air coming from when the air filter is exposed to the heat coming from the engine? No one has answered that question yet and I don’t think no one ever will answer it. The best thing to do is modify your stock air box to get cooler air if you can. I did it on my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix SE. I took out the tubes and cut the barrier out. The box is right behind the left headlight and it gets plenty of air.
I regularly see issues with intakes on customer cars. Here's just a few.
1: silicon content in the oil is much higher in cars with k&n style filters. I have sent out oil for testing to verify this. This means substantial wear on internal engine parts.
2: fuel trim issues on cars with Maf sensors. This is very common when the intake tube is changed, due to different diameter or bends of the tube. It can cause a lean or rich condition witch can cause power loss, wear, fuel mileage problems.
3: Gains HP in high rpms, lost torque in low or mid-range rpms. So you basically take away the acceleration you want in a daily driven street car.
4: Wasted money because there is no difference besides the noise. Even if you "tune" your car for the intake, there is usually no noticable power gains. The power increase comes from the software and would have done the same without the intake.
An intake should honestly be the last thing you upgrade, because most OEM intakes are capable of more flow than your car needs.
Start looking into an intake upgrade when you make a large change, like a turbo, supercharger, etc.
And never believe the dyno from the company that sells the part. I have personally dyno tuned many cars, and they usually make the same power or minimally more (1-5hp) but will almost always loose more torque down low and make your car slower.
Josh lmao you only need an intake exhaust and a tune you can upload into obd2 and you can get 30hp or more
@@daevid21 if you can achieve 30 hp with an intake exhaust and tune, you can most likely achieve those same numbers with just a software tune and catalytic converter delete.
Catback exhaust is useless, just makes noise, And intakes are useless and just make noise. Unless you have some serious power mods like a turbo or supercharger, you will not have anything to gain from full exhaust or an intake. A 1xx hp focus does not stand to gain anything from and intake or exhaust. A tune? Sure, you can pick up a little bit.
@@Josh-py2in Theres usually no power gain from intake and tune?? Well thats wrong, but im too lazy to show how stupid you sound saying that. Ktuner or Hondata Tune and a Intake with a Civic will have massive gains. Speaking from experience. And 2-8hp gain from intake and depending on motor.
@@Rob_Nasty gains from a tune, YES. Gains from an intake, nothing or minimal on most cars.
Even when you do gain hp from an intake, it's way up in the rpm range and it will usually loose torque in the mid to low RPMs.
I actually dyno tune cars using Winols and mpps. Intakes are litterally the biggest waste of money in the car world. Everyone in a Honda adds an intake and suddenly think they gained a lot. In reality, on a dyno, they gain maybe 5 hp at 6500-7200 rpms and they loose what little torque they have at 4000-5000 they loose a substantial amount. You want real power, water/methanol injection with a tune, or e85 with a tune, nitrous with a tune. An intake is wasted money and just makes noise 90% of the time. Tunes make power, intakes just support power. Until you learn that, you will forever be in a slow car.
@@Josh-py2in I run turbo so low end torque is amazing for me. But yes now were talking!! High rpm gains exist with intake and or tune, for every car the scenario is different though. But theres no doubt intakes work. PRL has their dyno show mod by mod dyno'd numbers, and the increase is real, even if its minimal. And yes there is other massive gains out there. But those gains people never go for inless their a real car enthusiast.
Install a brand/unit with a housing (not an open shield) for the filter and also one that connects to the original air ram. The car's air ram sucks in cold air from the outside and farther away from the engine block. MST, AEM are some of the manufacturers that includes an air box (not shield) and retains the original air ram of the vehicle. Also, replace your cat back exhaust with larger piping to optimize your exhaust system with 5-15 hp gain at around 5000 rpm, which is good for merging and overtaking maneuvers.
From experience,it's much cheaper in the long run to just buy the drop in filter from K&N and add a catback when your OEM exhaust need replacing.I just got rid of a cold air intake in fear of it sucking in water in heavy rain because part of the fender splash shield is broken off, exposing the filter.
For my truck I got an Air Raid Intake system and kept the stock air box and got a drop in AEM dry air filter, no problem with hot engine air coming in with a bit better power and fuel economy, and the truck doesn't stall anymore.
Hello I have GMC Sierra 1500 and I put the air intake system in it put I lose power and up he'll do is samting to do or how to get it to work batter
You will get heat soak either way, the sheet metal baffle isn't to prevent heat soak, it's supposed to slow airflow from all areas except the oem pathway through the fender or front grill. Good outside airflow will negate the engine bay heat so maybe it's that the shape of the baffle didn't seal well. Also when you take off the oe air box you detuned the wide band nature of the intake and turned it into a narrow band WOT peaking unit at best.
Wild. I got mine and dropped it in, when it was hot out, noticed mild gains ish, and much better noise. But on dyno, got 6.1whp more than stock at top end, but even down low at 3000ish rpms, still 2whp higher,
I have one installed on my truck with an aftermarket exhaust. I see power improvement and mpg gain. Not by much, i noticed 2mpg gain. I installed it over the summer with average temp of 80-90 degrees. It didnt hurt my truck
No you don't. You think you do because that's what you expected to see. But no you don't. It doesn't change the computer programming. And before you get all in a huff and your panties in a twist, I also have an intake and exhaust on my truck. Runs exactly the same, no performance or gas mileage increases. Sounds nice but nothing else.
King Daniel maybe it doesn’t increase power and mpg in every application but people have ran dyno tests before and after there is a video from JEGS on CZcams they gained 14 hp on a Chevy 5.3. Plus a lot of people notice gains. But I guess they aren’t as smart as you and they’re probably all full of shit.
Okay, let me explain this one more time since you're obviously slow. Everything is run by computers, the air/fuel ratio, injection rate, spark, everything. Bolting something on does not change the computer programming, thus you gain NOTHING. There is no power or performance increase unless there are changes to the computer parameters that control those functions. I don't care about some bs marketing video you've seen about a product someone is trying to sell you. Any gains are hypothetical, and implied at best, unless you get ALL the equipment to facilitate those changes i.e. a programmer.
King Daniel thanks for informing me you fucking genius. I can only hope to be half smart as you some day.
Stop being an ignorant asshat tossing bullshit everywhere. Have the tiniest of clues as to what you're trying to discuss.
K&N’s DO offer slightly more horsepower over a standard paper filter. If you still want the cold air intake noise that you got from the K&N, then you need to get a performance air filter that is already housed within a heat shield enclosure. I used to have the same Focus and I put a performance air filter (like K&N) in mine and it was enclosed in a carbon fiber shield and it worked great! Smoother and more peppy acceleration and it sounded great and heatsoak wasn’t a problem! You won’t get any of the intake sound from a panel filter...K&N or not...trust me! Part of that noise is caused from the filter sucking the air in. The panel filter gets enclosed in the air box and so it deadens the sound. 👍🏼
So if I add a cold air intake, do I need the shields around to keep the heat out? Is it mandatory? Because it’s cheaper without it but will it still make a louder sound even with hotter air than normal?
From what I've read and heard, the "Cold" Air Intakes are for hotrods, and if you don't work up the rest of the engine, it won't do anything. If the sound changes, there is definitely a change in the airflow however, 'cuz duh... Yes, thanks for the trial. I think I will skip putting one in my Suburban unless I need to replace the catastrophic converter(!) 😯 (At that point, I would put low restriction exhaust in.) Every Dyno Test I've ever seen showing improvement for any cold air intake has been paid for one way or another by the manufacturer, but I don't get out much. 😝
Better clean that filter a lot more often than a hundred thousand miles buddy
Yes. I had one on my 2013 Taurus SHO and it needed cleaning every 3-6 months.
i did it on my aussie 6cyl ford turbo 4.0litre..im gettin 25% better fuel economy..the ecu took 4 days to re calibrate itself
What you did is the same as I did. The K&N filter does it all. Me like you didn't reallly like the cold air system by K&N and I saw a power loss to the engine. Left it on and tranded trucks. After I traded, I found out things the the Ford was a bad year and then I was glad I changed trucks. I in the last truck and this new one, I only used the Expensive K&N filter and got the same results that they claim. Works the same as a cold air system. Does the same also.
The standard K&N air filter (non-cold air filter) are great on manual vehicles due to adding a small amount fuel milage….its not meant to add more horse power! I do have a 2012 Chevy Cruze Eco 6 speed and I did gain 4 miles per gal on the fuel economy which is what I was looking for! Just remember….any tine you use new products on your vehicle, always research the product line and the type of vehicle its going into before making a purchase! This will save you time and money and keep you on the road longer.
Unless you get truly cold air, have a piggÿback module for the MAF or ecu tune to adjust the A/F ratio. it's all just looks and noise. You will see some better throttle response but you can get just as much with a throttle body optimization.
Good, honest review. I was thinking about getting a cold air intake for my 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi, but after seeing this review I'm going to take a pass on that.
Cold air intake works i don't know wth he talking about
I put this same system in my 2017 Toyota corolla, I live in central Texas where it gets 110 degrees every summer. I saw no difference from any season, the only reason you will be losing power is if your losing air, such as the filter not being tight enough. Sure of course its better to have cold air, but the only consequence of having hot air instead of cold air is loss of fuel economy, but the major factor with that is your driving habits, however as long as everything is tight enough, you should be just fine as far as power goes.
I have that K&N engine air filter in my 09 Camry,2.4L engine and it runs a lot better than it did with the stock air filter. And I don't hear any un-wanted engine ,air intake noise🤔🙂. But then I don't drive a Ford😐....
Scotty Kilmer videos on CZcams channel would have saved you the trouble. Suggested watch before your next mod.
need the exhaust ( borla ) to balance extra air intake. don"t pay any attention to this man. you need someone that knows more about performance. to get that extra, you need to spend that extra.K&N cold air box,with a true sealed air box. cost about $400. exhaust about $1295. hwy. mpg,went from24 to29+, hp from 280 to 310, yes this made a big improvement. 2004 FORD T-bird 3.9L-V-8
Lol you have a Toyota. That’s gotta be embarrassing.
@@John-qt9bi always fun embarrasing v8 mustangs with a 6 speed auto v6 camry grocery getter what makes it all the more satisfying is the camry isa grandma grandpa car the slowstang is a sports car lmao
joe5vee I’m thinking about getting a closed box 37 horsepower or open box 39 horsepower for my 300 horsepower Rallye Dodge Charger v6. Do you think it will help?
I’ve had the Roush CAI in my 2016 focus for 2 years. Zero issues
Check it every yearly service, after 100k you might have an animals nest in it or something.
Right i was like what??? 100k????
Believe Asians when it comes to math not mechanics
Bro I just cleaned the biggest nest ever out of my f250 lmao. Damn stowaways
I like using a old pringles can for a cold air intake tube.
PLUS...
It's a great chick magnet !
😁
Depends on the flavor though
I’m dying!
You got the same results I got in my 2007 Ram. If one does not want to take their car to a tuner the K&N is a waste of money.
As long as it's under the hood, it's hot air. Ford engineers put the intake where it belongs, in the front.
Thank God someone else realises this, I was a fool and went k&n and ripped it out about 6 months later - pulling air from inside the engine bay vs stock arrangement that pulls from the inside of the passenger side fender well
paul massing I agree 100 percent!!!
@@paulcondie2520 You guys are uneducated idiots who know nothing about modding cars.
I could be wrong but it looks like he keep it in the stock place?
extremedrivr Last time I checked. Engines hate pulling in hotter air so putting an air filter near the block would result in power loss. Why do you think filters are in air boxes to begin with? You’re the uneducated one here.
A tuner and exhaust is all you need.
Cold air intake would never do that it had to be something else I have had them on all my vehicles and always helps
If you look at his setup theres no air way to the intake the stock one probably had better air flow to the intake thats why
Just changed to a K+ N canister filter. Not the pipe one. On my 2017 Titanium Escape 2.0 turbo 4 cylinder. Makes a big different in sound and a little power gain off the start. Didn't expect the engine to run like a scaled Dog! But for the $60.00 bucks it does what it said. Thinking about a less restricted exhaust system. If the price is right. In stainless! Just for a better sound and look. Shawn
U have a site? I don’t see none for $60
I have full-bolt ons & a 94 octane tune on my 3.8 Eclipse GT. Makes a solid 60+ hp over stock. So I'm happy with that
I bought the intake for my 2014 Chrysler 200 2.4 and took it out a week later because it was to loud! I have it 4 sale for $300.00 have everything for it! I'll install it locally!
I have had a K&N cone filter on my 2104 F-150 Tremor 3.5 EcoBoost since it was new. I noticed Gas Milage drop recently, and just today cleaned and re oiled it. I will do the re learn trick also.
Been using k&n cold air intakes since 2000.. you will ALWAYS feel some difference in perfirmanxe and mpg helps..
Maybe in your stock focus you can't feel anything. But, I have a Mustang GT with a Ford Racing intake manifold, a 24 pounds fuel injectors, MSD ignition coils, headers and, really trust me, the K&N intake really work.
Mustang Racer nah
Yeah sarcastic, an intake works in a modified engine. In an stock engine you can't feel 1or 2 extra horses.
Mustang racer Is your K&N filter in a separated cooler area ? Or just under the hood ?
one option is if you still had the k n intake is to put shiny insulation on the deflector shield
At least this guys gets it in the end. SO many people pay big money for these stupid things that suck up hot air. If you had a turbo or supercharged engine, it makes things even worse. You get detonation, the car pulls ignition timing and you make less HP. For a lousy $10 I took a factory air cleaner box on an 05 IMpala SS, gutted out the baffling then cut a 4" hole in the side with a hole saw,attached a 4"x18" rubber duct hose and ran it through a hole in the fender, sealed any openings with furnace duct tape .The only air coming in is from the outer fender. No engine heat. Depending on the temp that day, you can see a significant drop of air temp on the IAC sensor. Cant imagine what that sensor reads with an open K&N set up that doesnt totally seal out the engine heat. I suppose in a lot of cases, the stock set up beats that K &N shit IF the kit doesnt seal the filter completely.
Installed properly they are completely worth the money.
Thanks for the feedback because I recently installed a K&N air filter on my 2012 Focus SE. I did notice immediately a noticeable VROOM sound and a low end growl. I haven't put it on the DYNO so I don't know exactly how much boost I got from it. I will point out that it never burned rubber before like it does now. Based on what you told me, I will watch out when the weather becomes hot.
So how is it now??
yeah do you still have it on? I just bought one before watching this video and don't know if I should cancel it.
I did an AEM drop in dry filter in the factory box and an Air Aid intake tube in my Dakota. No worries about heat soaking with a bump in performance and no more stalling with the factory resonator. 🙂
I would add a thermal tap or wrap on the pipe and the engine side of the shield to add extra isolation from the engine if that happens. On the other hand you should look at a cold air that is a fully inclosed box with a directed inlet for air to really limit the hot air form the engine
Isn't that a shirt ram intake I thought cold air intakes are longer?
Good review, this is my experience for my 2019 Mustang GT
The PCM will work around the K&N filter, NOT the other way around. People who say you need to "retune" a vehicle to accept a CAI have obviously never heard of elevation and sea level. K&N sucks in more air, the PCM realizes this and adds more fuel, more air & fuel mixture = more power, plain and simple. As far as MPG's goes, most CAI's actually give you less MPG's due to the air/fuel ratio.
Thanks for your review.
I have the filter in my old school stuff.
Ready to try in my newer vehicles.
Cowl induction..ie.- 'Poor man's supercharger'..that works! However,not usually. Cowl induction ( when installed as an air tight plenum) only begins to function well over 75 mph. But for long-hual driving on the Super Slab, Oh Yeah!
I think you meant short air ram. True Cold air intake gains on the high end. While short air ram gains on the low. Agreed, that short ram with weather stripping semi enclosures or no enclosure risks hot air engine bay seepage. I recommend short air ram with full enclosure or excellent seals.
Correct, long term & short term fuel trims are adjusted by ecm that gets its data from various sensors one being the mass air flow sensor that sets the fuel mixture to lean or rich depending on the amount of air, temperature, rpms, throttle position, etc. So basically no matter what you do the ecm is going to adjust the fuel mixture back to optimal ratios for emissions, unless theirs a fault or failure. Cold air intake in the same location as the factory air box generally want provide any benefits other than sounding tough. K&N knows that too, but they have a business to maintain along with a lot of other parts sellers. Was different back before the electronic control cars then just flipping the the breath too upside down would let a little more cooler air in & reduce restriction into the carb & sound tough, but those where fixed fuel ratios & you could (sometimes with a little modification) adjust the mixture leaner or richer for better performance.
Modern ECU will re-learn; just like you said. I have one on my v6 Accord MT and I am digging it this far
yep
Snowflakes don't ever learn.
It's called fuel trim and it readjusts over time
The only thing K&N that goes in my hood is a high-performance K&N filter with stock intake. It's a lot cheaper, and you do get some power increase going that route as well
I own a 2004 4.7 V-8 4x4 Dodge Dakota..It certainly sounds like it has more power,and yes I did get a small power increase.I am Happy.
Might want to check out project farm. He did a test on those k&n filters. Let in alot of dirt.
That was very unrealistic he dumped flour on top of an upside down filter 😂
@@andrewkjeldergaard9653 and it didn't go through the other filters as much as it did with the K&N
Unrealistic test but still same condition for each filter
I have a K&N on my 03’ Ram 5.7 and Never have I lost power due to it. All they do is allow More air than factory in reality.
Put he K&N on my Previous Edge Sport....what a $350 waste of money. All I noticed was that it was extremely loud but with no discernable gain in power . On my new Edge Sport I went with a filter replacement and didnt fall for the hype
The Stock air box in many cars are well engineered and do a great job with the oem filter. Keeping the box and upgrading to a drop in filter would give you a little more sound and save you some money by not having to replace it. Just make sure you clean it regularly. I didn't want to use a cold air intake because of the reasons you mentioned too. Thanks for sharing!
Exactly what I ended up doing!
Planning on doing this for my 3000GT!
@@MotorMindsProductions what's a great drop in filter to buy?
@@FatalCorleone07 facts
To do it properly, you should have taken the filter out of the engine bay and extend them down and in behind the front grill.
Main question is: Did you have the AC run inside your car while you were driving in the more heated temperature times? Because from what I’ve learned and key word “I’ve” is that when you have a K&N filter in and it’s on hot days you’ll need to run the AC to keep the car cooler. For example if you made a tuner car for drifting(RWD cars). While your drifting you’ll want to have the AC because it’ll “HELP” the car engine stay cooler and not overheat. Again this is from what I’ve learned and my knowledge on cars from being taught,self taught, and still learning more about cars. I mean also you put a cold air intake on a new model car which will also affects the car and it’s warranty’s you have on there or whatever
Kayvon Young - Thank goodness you said that you´re learning. ;-)
How in the world imposing more effort in a running engine will make it stay cooler?!
You realize the AC is just another power hungry system the engine as to drag along while running...
So by all means keep learning. Physics 101 is a good starting point. As of right now you´re surely on the wrong direction. ;-)
Cheers
K&N air filters work best in heavy vehicles or V6 V8. In light vehicles such as 4 cylinders you'll burn more fuel
"cold air intakes" are just very good business for sellers. Original intakes are much better design as you said.
Hey man, I really appreciate the update video, and glad to see you learned something. I wish I had seen this video before I commented on the original video on this subject. However, go ahead and take a look at that comment. It will provide even more insight into why you experienced what you did. Us old farts are already aware of these things, but then again, I've been working on cars for over 35 years, including today's modern cars. I have a 2012 Focus with a stick too, and I LOVE it!
Keep up the good work!
U love the stick
You don't necessarily need a tune. You just need a more free flowing exhaust system to accommodate the extra air going thru.
The tunes are vehicle specific if you want it to run correctly. My 2017 Mustang GT would require a tune with one.
The only true cold air intake is the factory air box or any aftermarket filter system that incorporates some sort of sealed air box system. Best thing to do is go with just a K&N drop in filter with the factory air box if your car is also your daily driver. Cheaper and works better without all the heat soak from idling in traffic or risk of hydro locking in heavy rain.
I was reading up on the 3si.org forums for some cold air intake advice from people who own a 3000GT like myself. And so many were suggesting that. It's 200$ for the one I want but it essencially keeps the car stock but also improves upon the effectiveness while also making the car louder! Which is clearly what I want.
That’s the best way to put it 👍
It does ad horsepower because it draws air easier than stock it is only about a 4hp gain ,ur throttle response is quicker .
FYI...when they test CAI they are in a shop on a dino with the hood open with a big fan blowing on the front on the car but other independent tests have shown CAI don't work and in some cases lower hp and they will increase your air intake temps.
The stock system is fine.