A way to think of the difference between Compression formed (old Win AA and Remington STS style) vs. Riefenhauser (most Federal and Euro) hulls is that Compression formed is like forging for plastic while Riefenhauser is built up from pieces. Both methods have pros & cons from the manufactures and reloaders standpoints. Note that the "new" Win AA-HS is Riefenhauser made to mimic the "old" Win AA compression hull internal dimensions. Remington STS, Gun Club, UMC, etc. are compression formed but Remington also makes Riefenhasuser loads while Federal is famous for Riefenhauser with paper base wads but they also make them with plastic and the Federal Gold Medal is Compression formed. Note also that Riefenhauser base wads can be of different thickness even within a brand name. Pro tip, the manufacturers adjust the hull length according to the load they are making. "2 3/4 - 70mm" is a nominal value. Shells as short as 2 9/16 - 65mm are still called 2 3/4 - 70mm. From a manufactures standpoint loading 100's of thousands or millions of rounds per lot it makes perfect sense. Changing from #8 shot to #6 shot is often done by making the hull a bit longer, a simple adjustment on the machines, all other things being the same. This can be a headache for reloaders. Example, a mixed bag of Federal paper base wade "Game" load hulls can vary by a 1/4" - 5mm in length. This can lead to tenting, crushing, dishing, swirls, gaps, etc. when crimping. Sorting your hulls by brand, manufacturer, style and length will go a long way to solving some common vexing problems. I know this is a bit beyond the scope of the video but I got on a roll but perhaps this info will help someone out there solve a problem. Happy shooting Y'all!
A second post on this video. Not to be a smart ass but I'll bet you could trim these these hulls to 2 1/2 - 2 1/4 and use a roll crimp to get one more go with them. By the way, a product recommend is the BPI Super Crown crimp starter. I got them for loading virgin hulls but now I use them for all my reloads too. They are a bit expensive up front but mine have seen many thousands of shells and still look brand new. I have found for trimmed/shortened or virgin hulls they are a must and they do as well or better in every-day reloading then the original stamped steel or plastic MEC crimp starters. I have no connection to BPI except as a customer, this is just a product I can confidently recommend to friends. More happy shooting Y'all!
I have watched ALL your video's at least 3 times , just love them ! Alan Thomas
Glad you’re back Manny!
Nice 👍 I love fiocci hulls
A way to think of the difference between Compression formed (old Win AA and Remington STS style) vs. Riefenhauser (most Federal and Euro) hulls is that Compression formed is like forging for plastic while Riefenhauser is built up from pieces. Both methods have pros & cons from the manufactures and reloaders standpoints. Note that the "new" Win AA-HS is Riefenhauser made to mimic the "old" Win AA compression hull internal dimensions. Remington STS, Gun Club, UMC, etc. are compression formed but Remington also makes Riefenhasuser loads while Federal is famous for Riefenhauser with paper base wads but they also make them with plastic and the Federal Gold Medal is Compression formed. Note also that Riefenhauser base wads can be of different thickness even within a brand name. Pro tip, the manufacturers adjust the hull length according to the load they are making. "2 3/4 - 70mm" is a nominal value. Shells as short as 2 9/16 - 65mm are still called 2 3/4 - 70mm. From a manufactures standpoint loading 100's of thousands or millions of rounds per lot it makes perfect sense. Changing from #8 shot to #6 shot is often done by making the hull a bit longer, a simple adjustment on the machines, all other things being the same. This can be a headache for reloaders. Example, a mixed bag of Federal paper base wade "Game" load hulls can vary by a 1/4" - 5mm in length. This can lead to tenting, crushing, dishing, swirls, gaps, etc. when crimping. Sorting your hulls by brand, manufacturer, style and length will go a long way to solving some common vexing problems. I know this is a bit beyond the scope of the video but I got on a roll but perhaps this info will help someone out there solve a problem. Happy shooting Y'all!
A second post on this video. Not to be a smart ass but I'll bet you could trim these these hulls to 2 1/2 - 2 1/4 and use a roll crimp to get one more go with them. By the way, a product recommend is the BPI Super Crown crimp starter. I got them for loading virgin hulls but now I use them for all my reloads too. They are a bit expensive up front but mine have seen many thousands of shells and still look brand new. I have found for trimmed/shortened or virgin hulls they are a must and they do as well or better in every-day reloading then the original stamped steel or plastic MEC crimp starters. I have no connection to BPI except as a customer, this is just a product I can confidently recommend to friends. More happy shooting Y'all!
Powder migration drives me crazy when reloading. Two ways to solve the problem: don't use clear hulls, or use an overpowder card.
Cleaning patch under wad works also.