FYI: On the rear brakes there is no reason to remove the T40 Torx screw. Found out the one in my 93 had a stripped torx socket head screw. I just rotated the caliper after taking out the hex head bolt. I was able to access the 2 bolts that hold in the bracket and was able to remove the rotor too. It was easy to change the rotor and put in the new brake pads.
I know this is an older video but thank you for being very clear and detailed with this video. There’s another video on this that a few minutes shorter but the quality and details of this video is 10x better
Thanks. Just bought the rotors for my ‘89 after watching your vid. Been meaning to do this for a while but thought it would cost me 500 bucks. Great job.
Good step by step FYI if you have to push caliper pistons back in open the bleeder push fluid out there don’t wanna push any garbage back into your ABS system
I’ve had the calipers stick and ruin the rotors on two GM vehicles, ( an 04 and 01) after a new pad/rotor job. My mechanic buddy tells me it’s because the aluminum calipers cause the “pucks” to seize. In both cases I had to go back and replace the calipers ANDThe new rotors, and pads, because they had overheated from the pads dragging. Just an FYI! If you smell brake shoes after you do the job, that’s probably why. Now we just replace everything. Much faster and cheaper in the long run. Even tho you’ll have to bleed the brakes.
Man o man..ur videos have brought my 1990 c4 back to life..now to get my radio goin..that's what is still bothering me..if u have any insight I'll take any info u have..thanks again..AHO MVTO PAHBEE!!..**WARRIOR CRY**
When working on the front brakes if you turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (or left) it makes for better access to the brake caliper and rotor. Are you going to change the flexible brake lines?
Great video. doing the brakes on my '94 now and have managed to run into lots of little issues. The first pads I ordered did not fit. The front fit was poor while the rear fit was completely wrong. Pads went back, new pads were ordered. Now, the new pads were a lot closer to fitting but not quite. The fit in the bracket is simply too tight. So I have taken a file to the rear pads and now working on getting the fronts to fit good. It's not that they won't go in there, they will, it's that once they're in there the fit is too tight for them to move and so the result would be them dragging. It's kind of annoying having to take a file to the pads but what can one really do?
I didn't know there was supposed to be a washer under the C-clip. They've never provided a washer in the replacement pin kits at the autoparts store. My GM parts manual doesn't show a washer, so I'm guessing someone just added that in there.
Chris, I want to put the 1992- Corvette 17" Sawblade Wheels, on my 1986-Corvette that has 16" Wheels. I know that I can use spacers to accomplish this, But I was thinking that maybe I can just change the rotors on my 1986-Corvette to the 1992-Corvette rotors which I think are 1" Larger. Will this rotor swap work on my 1986-Corvette that has 16" wheels, and allow me to use the stock 1992-Corvette 17" Sawblade Wheels? What other parts must I use off of the 1992-Corvette 17" Brake System, To convert my 1986-Corvette to use the stock 17" Wheels?
Did you forget the rear pad spring sliding surface ‘shims’? Or maybe this version of C4 doesn’t utilize them? Based on the spring type I would assume they are required.
@@rubyred93chev Maybe you misread what Richard said. They do have 4 disc brakes, but he said that he thought there were drums INSIDE the rear rotors, which is correct for the early C4's. They function as the parking brake. I recently adjusted them in my own '86.
Great vid and has me wanting to do the same thing on my 93 40th. When you compressed the calipers did you pop the master cylinder cap and if so do you tighten back down and pump breaks between working on each caliper ?
Two questions for you. First one did you have to clean the rotors with brake cleaner prior to putting them on? Second there’s nowhere that needs brake grease?
I'm curious about the upper, and lower screws holding your inner fender well on (at 0:27). They appear to have electrical terminals? Mine is in storage so I can't compare to yours...
Anyone know what might cause a caliper to slightly rub the wheel barrel? Only happens at creeping parking lot speed when turning hard while on the brakes just a little. Only on the front wheels. I just bought this 94 and did not notice at test drive. Seems to not always happen but I just had the tires replaced and the shop notices some little grooves have been worn inside the wheels, nothing too bad. I can't seem to find anything about folks having this issue. To my knowledge the calipers are stock but the rotors look like the ones on this video.
What size are the wheels? Inside of the spokes or on the inside barrel? If they touch, they touch all the time at any speed. The caliper never moves in relation to the wheel. I’m guessing they are aftermarket wheels with incorrect offset.
@@mycorvettelife Forgive my idiocy. Tire shop boys had me worked up over NOTHING. Just thoroughly inspected. Nothing is touching, rubbing or otherwise even capable of contacting the wheels! Who knows what happened in its past life, maybe something got caught in the caliper, something broke, someone tried running the wheels on something they didn't belong on - no idea but there is no issue at all now. Thanks for your reply though and for giving torque specs in your vid!
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU DO FRONT BRAKES ! ! ! THE 95, 96 VETTES HAVE THE 13 INCH ROTORS ! ! ! ! Earlier Z51 and Z52 packages MAY have the larger rotors. Pads may be different also. DON'T RELY ON VENDORS THAT SAY THEY FIT ALL YEARS INCLUDING '95 and 96 ! ! !
Sounds awfully cheap for brakes! You get what you pay for. I definitely would not skimp on brakes. A lot of guys/girls also do a brake job and continue using their original junky calipers and worn brake hoses. NOT GOOD I guarantee you those cheap rotos get all cracked between the holes.
Helpful tip, the brake pad that has the squealer on it is supposed to go on the piston side of the caliper since that pad tends to get more wear.
FYI: On the rear brakes there is no reason to remove the T40 Torx screw. Found out the one in my 93 had a stripped torx socket head screw. I just rotated the caliper after taking out the hex head bolt. I was able to access the 2 bolts that hold in the bracket and was able to remove the rotor too. It was easy to change the rotor and put in the new brake pads.
Loving all the c4 videos man! You’ve documented essentially everything I’ve had to do on mine. I appreciate the content!
I know this is an older video but thank you for being very clear and detailed with this video.
There’s another video on this that a few minutes shorter but the quality and details of this video is 10x better
Just completed brakes and rotors on my C4. This video helped tremendously. Perfect!!! Thank You.
Just got a 85 c4. This helps big time. Thanks.👍
Thanks. Just bought the rotors for my ‘89 after watching your vid. Been meaning to do this for a while but thought it would cost me 500 bucks. Great job.
Awesome! Glad I could help.
Loving the content I wish I seen these videos back when I first got my c4 vette
I love seeing those rotors come off so easily. Up here in the northeast we have it a bit harder. Love the content. thanks Chris
Thank you this great video.
I just ordered new rotors and pads.
This video really helped.
Thank you again.
Good step by step FYI if you have to push caliper pistons back in open the bleeder push fluid out there don’t wanna push any garbage back into your ABS system
I've used the same brake kits on my C5, F150, and F250. Great quality kits at a great price.
I liked that it is so clean around the wheels
Great help
Thanks a lot for this video.
Very helpful!!
No problem!
I’ve had the calipers stick and ruin the rotors on two GM vehicles, ( an 04 and 01) after a new pad/rotor job. My mechanic buddy tells me it’s because the aluminum calipers cause the “pucks” to seize. In both cases I had to go back and replace the calipers ANDThe new rotors, and pads, because they had overheated from the pads dragging. Just an FYI! If you smell brake shoes after you do the job, that’s probably why. Now we just replace everything. Much faster and cheaper in the long run. Even tho you’ll have to bleed the brakes.
Man o man..ur videos have brought my 1990 c4 back to life..now to get my radio goin..that's what is still bothering me..if u have any insight I'll take any info u have..thanks again..AHO MVTO PAHBEE!!..**WARRIOR CRY**
Thank you!
Looks great Chris!!! 😎
Thanks 👍
Thanks for doing this video. Give me confidence I can do it myself!
You can do it!
very informative... straight to the point,,, excellent editing on fast forwarding task....
the bolts to my spindle got ejected from my car, do you know where i could find new ones?
GM sure put a ton of faith into using only 1 slide for a caliper
Thanks for making this one Chris!
My pleasure!
When working on the front brakes if you turn the steering wheel all the way to the right (or left) it makes for better access to the brake caliper and rotor. Are you going to change the flexible brake lines?
Great video. doing the brakes on my '94 now and have managed to run into lots of little issues. The first pads I ordered did not fit. The front fit was poor while the rear fit was completely wrong. Pads went back, new pads were ordered. Now, the new pads were a lot closer to fitting but not quite. The fit in the bracket is simply too tight. So I have taken a file to the rear pads and now working on getting the fronts to fit good. It's not that they won't go in there, they will, it's that once they're in there the fit is too tight for them to move and so the result would be them dragging. It's kind of annoying having to take a file to the pads but what can one really do?
I love ur vlogs very informative keep up the gd work.
Thanks
I didn't know there was supposed to be a washer under the C-clip. They've never provided a washer in the replacement pin kits at the autoparts store. My GM parts manual doesn't show a washer, so I'm guessing someone just added that in there.
Those rotors look great. I might do my 89 C4 with those. 👍👍
Do you have a link or part number for the kit you got? is the store Aero Brake Motive?
Good Job, just don't forget to use brake parts cleaner after touching your rotors.
Also don't forget to clean (wire brush or wheel) the surface where the rotor sits. Some anti-seize on there is a good idea as well.
Great video with great info. Thanks
Chris, I want to put the 1992- Corvette 17" Sawblade Wheels, on my 1986-Corvette that has 16" Wheels. I know that I can use spacers to accomplish this, But I was thinking that maybe I can just change the rotors on my 1986-Corvette to the 1992-Corvette rotors which I think are 1" Larger. Will this rotor swap work on my 1986-Corvette that has 16" wheels, and allow me to use the stock 1992-Corvette 17" Sawblade Wheels? What other parts must I use off of the 1992-Corvette 17" Brake System, To convert my 1986-Corvette to use the stock 17" Wheels?
Looks pretty easy to replace the pads almost as easy as on a modern sports caliper
Those pins in the front are a pain!! Took forever to get in!!
Nice...
Thanks
Did you forget the rear pad spring sliding surface ‘shims’? Or maybe this version of C4 doesn’t utilize them? Based on the spring type I would assume they are required.
The only thing i dont understand is why they went from 4 piston on c3 to 2 piston on the c4
Makes me wonder too. My '87 has only one piston on the front calipers. I am switching to C5 2 piston calipers soon.
Nicely done!!
Thanks
Thank you so much
👍
Thanks bud!! Good vid
... on the front, compressing piston, do you have to compress both pistons simultaneously?
I always thought they had drum in hat rear rotors, I was expecting to see some issue with the parking brake.
The earlier C4's had them.
@@Sk1ds87 actually no. All Corvettes since '65 came standard with four-wheel disc brakes.
@@rubyred93chev Maybe you misread what Richard said. They do have 4 disc brakes, but he said that he thought there were drums INSIDE the rear rotors, which is correct for the early C4's. They function as the parking brake. I recently adjusted them in my own '86.
@@Sk1ds87 yes
@@Sk1ds87 wow, I certainly learned something new. You can clearly tell I can't turn a wrench to save my life. But I'm good at signing my name though.
Great vid and has me wanting to do the same thing on my 93 40th. When you compressed the calipers did you pop the master cylinder cap and if so do you tighten back down and pump breaks between working on each caliper ?
No. I didn’t do either. Just make sure to pump the brakes a few times after all 4 are done before you take off.
What jacks stands do you use
Anyone got the link to the kit he Bought off of eBay?
My replacement rear pads came with stamped c or H shapes parts..
Anyone know what they are for?
Wow that is easy, you make great videos, sad to hear you sold it.
what is the link to these rotors
Verry nice, Thanks.
I have to change the Brake Fluid on my 88 C4. What kind of DOT i have to use?
3
One thing you forgot to wipe down those rotors of the oils after installing them before putting the brakes shoes on
I'm curious, why no brake lube?
I never do and have never had a problem. Maybe it’s because stuff doesn’t rust here in AZ like other places.
Must be nice not living in the rust belt. Try that same job on any New England car...lol
Suck it up buttercup!
Two questions for you. First one did you have to clean the rotors with brake cleaner prior to putting them on? Second there’s nowhere that needs brake grease?
No and no.
@@mycorvettelife thank you
do you need to bleed the system after rotor and pads? I read that you do but not sure
No. No fluid is lost in the system during the process. just pump the pedal a few times to build the pressure back up before taking off.
I'm curious about the upper, and lower screws holding your inner fender well on (at 0:27). They appear to have electrical terminals? Mine is in storage so I can't compare to yours...
I have no idea what those are for. They are on both sides.
Maybe points to attach a bra at one time?
Anyone know what might cause a caliper to slightly rub the wheel barrel? Only happens at creeping parking lot speed when turning hard while on the brakes just a little. Only on the front wheels. I just bought this 94 and did not notice at test drive. Seems to not always happen but I just had the tires replaced and the shop notices some little grooves have been worn inside the wheels, nothing too bad. I can't seem to find anything about folks having this issue. To my knowledge the calipers are stock but the rotors look like the ones on this video.
What size are the wheels? Inside of the spokes or on the inside barrel? If they touch, they touch all the time at any speed. The caliper never moves in relation to the wheel. I’m guessing they are aftermarket wheels with incorrect offset.
@@mycorvettelife Forgive my idiocy. Tire shop boys had me worked up over NOTHING. Just thoroughly inspected. Nothing is touching, rubbing or otherwise even capable of contacting the wheels! Who knows what happened in its past life, maybe something got caught in the caliper, something broke, someone tried running the wheels on something they didn't belong on - no idea but there is no issue at all now. Thanks for your reply though and for giving torque specs in your vid!
MAKE SURE WHEN YOU DO FRONT BRAKES ! ! ! THE 95, 96 VETTES HAVE THE 13 INCH ROTORS ! ! ! ! Earlier Z51 and Z52 packages MAY have the larger rotors.
Pads may be different also. DON'T RELY ON VENDORS THAT SAY THEY FIT ALL YEARS INCLUDING '95 and 96 ! ! !
Do you have a link for the listing for these pads and rotors I can't seem to find them. Thanks!
Here is the non-Z51
www.ebay.com/itm/291666006536
Here is the Z51
www.ebay.com/itm/293941586575
hot
My son and I will be attempting this on our new to us 1995. Do people still recommend using an anti seize on the backside of the pad?
Whomever recommended that??
Kriss, Power stop or Brake Motive?
BrakeMotive
@@mycorvettelife In your opinion, do you think Brake Motive is better than PS?
I don’t think either are better than even the stock brakes. They are at least equal in performance, but BrakeMotive is cheaper.
Sounds awfully cheap for brakes!
You get what you pay for. I definitely would not skimp on brakes. A lot of guys/girls also do a brake job and continue using their original junky calipers and worn brake hoses.
NOT GOOD
I guarantee you those cheap rotos get all cracked between the holes.
I was hoping to see him bleed them but I guess not
"
If my life depended on it, I would lose it. I can’t find this kit for that price anywhere.
Because they are out of stock. Toy are like the 3rd person to tell me this recently.
THANK YOU!
You’re welcome!