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2021 2022 2023 2024 KTM 1290 Super Adventure Oil Filter Service
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- čas přidán 23. 06. 2021
- More 2021 2022 1290 SAS video on my channel.
Quick walk through of how to change the oil and oil filter on the 2021 KTM 1290 Super Adventure.
Channel Link to Other Videos.
/ @ricardoyeep
Just bought a new super adventure. You're teaching me a lot. Thanks, from San Francisco.
Hiya Sam great to hear from you! And congratulations on your new beast 💪
3 years on and the warranty has now expired (KTM extended if you had them service it), so finally got round to doing the oil myself. I learnt the following-
1. KTM don't do it this way, they never touch the fwd and aft drain plug. How do I know? Well I had to stand on the plugs to undo them- they haven't ever been touched.
2. The filter cover came off lovely, so KTM do take that off and drain from there.
3. If you are having trouble getting the screws back into the skid pan, put them back in as follows- 2x screws underneath, using a torch to see the holes. Then the 2x screws in middle (top). Then the 2x outer screws, but the trick on these is to get your fingers behind the HOLES then you can squeeze the mating panels together and the screws go in a treat.
4. Once you see the oil in the level glass, it doesn't take much to fill, so go very slow at that point when pouring, once the filter has absorbed the oil, what you see is very accurate with engine off.
5. I have crash-bars on mine, the plastic skid plate came off easily, didn't have to touch the crash-bars.
6. Oil filter PN 61338015200. 10w50 fully synth 4T 3.6L. I used Motul 7100 (red) which is what my dealer uses- £60 for 4L.
Hiya Mate! Good to see you around. And still have the bike 3 years on! As for the service your dealer “should” have removed the forward and aft gauzes.. (look like drainage bolts). I work at KTM dealer and the actual service “kits” include new front and rear gauzes. I would not be happy if they have not replaced them.
Normally start by unwinding the front gauze a little for small flow. And not removing the rear fractionally to allow it to dispense quicker (but not all the way out) other wise it will glug and come out heavy and go everywhere. Once it slows the open fully until stops, then remove the main filter slowly.
All guazes and filter to be removed and then usually cleaned up before the new ones put back in 👍
Service kit 00050000068 check it out.
As for the engine bars yup. Agreed you can do it without taking them off. 👍 this video is now 3 years old 👀
As for oil. Personal preference. Moto always go Motorex. It’s a lot more expensive for sure and I’m not saying it’s any better. However my colleague has been to the motorex labs and see how all is made. It’s so clean and pure no colorants and probably one of the clearest oils available.
Most dealers stick whatever they get a good deal on with industrial barrel purchases. Needless to say Motul is one of the most popular.. I had this on my first service at the dealer got the bike from.. it was red.. it was motul. Which I soon removed
Our dealer only puts KTM recommended motorex in our KTMs. And customers services (unless otherwise requested)
But to be fair each to their own.. kind one of them tyre opinions.. everyone’s got one 🤣
Cheers
Ric
KTM definitely has an interesting take on "oil sight glass" with this model. Thanks for helping me confirm it is essentially buried under various bits of bodywork as I feared :).
Hiya William!! It’s not so bad. You can see it but need to get on knees and a torch 😂👍
My 1290 SAS had it's first service a few weeks ago. I've since done 2500kms and was thinking about doing an interim oil service maybe around 7k....no harm!
Really enjoying your series of videos on the 1290. I've got a deposit down on one and just waiting for delivery. Finding your experiences very informative!
Hi Ricky! Thans for your time mate and for the posivity on my little vids.
Congrats on the purchase! Its a hell of beast. And like I say I have had dual sports before and also big Superbikes and this definitely (for me) hits the sweet spot between a bike that is practial and can get down and dirty But also has that Superbike appeal that gets you buzzing and as yamaha would put it "revs your heart" :)
Hope you dont have to wait long!
I have done most of my vids in the workshop but given the time I plan to do more out on the bike soon and in particualar a first impressions (few k miles review as an owner).
Anyway thanks again and anything else just drop me a message!
Cheers
Ric!
Great informative Vid !!!! I watched another Vid where they also placed a small piece of aluminium foil in the shape of a channel to help guide the oil away from the exhaust on the 2nd drain plug..
Hello Paul! Cheers mate for the positive comment. Much appreciated! Yes I think I have seen that one too. To be fair there wasnt much drip on the pipe but could always just wrap a bin bag around that part if one can be bothered. Also I always do my oil drain after its sat overnight when all the oil is already drained into the sump. The pipe is cold and wont burn. However thats a matter of choice as there is mixed opinions on draining cold. Anyway mate before i waffle on thakns again for dropping a message! Cheers Ric
Thanks for the video! The only thing I am going to do differently is put a piece of foil on the exhaust before draining that second filter, so it doesn't go all over the exhaust.
HAHA good idea!!!
@@RicardoYeep I'm having a problem, I put in the brand new K&N filter, filled up the oil (a little hard to judge the the giant 4qt jug) and the sight glass was just below the top hole. After running for a few minutes my dash displayed a "low oil" warning, and I shut the bike off. I then let the bike settle for a bit and added a tiny bit more to account for the filter uptake. About 20 minutes later and the oil level shows AT THE BOTTOM of the sight window.
I'm going to give it an hour or so, but I can't understand what the hell is going on. Not my first rodeo either but it is my first KTM.
Thanks for the vids Ric
Hiya Bud. Thanks for the comment appreciated. 👍 Cheers Ric
Very very easy, without complications. On my Crossrunner I must to loose the radiator to remove the oil filter (I have a video on my channel). I'm going to send your video to the guys at Honda !! 🤣 Good job!!
HAHA sending it to the Honda guys (funny). Yeah mate this is so much easier than any bike I owned before. Everything about it is so easy!. The design team did well on this bike... Cheers Ric
totally agree on the mid service. ktm says 15.000kms for oil and filter, i simply do it halfway. and, especially during hot weather (we had almost a month of over 40C here in greece this summer) the oil is degrading fast. i am at 7000kms since last oil change, and i already find it hard to select N on the gearbox, and i start hear some whining from the gearbox. oil has probably turned into water lol
Yes a mid term service I always do to be on the safe side. Definitely on new machine where the wearing in phase has been carrid out.
Mate, love your work. I pick up my SAS in four days. Not finding many user friendly online sources in Australia. Especially for the super useful additions like the mudguard extension.
What are your best online options? I might see if they do international shipping.
Anyway, keep up the great vids :)
Hey Steve! Thanks mate for the feedback much appreciated! WOW 4 days time. I couldn't sleep for the days running up to getting mine haha... You will bloody love it mate. What a tool it is. Yeah is poor at the moment for parts on the new 2021 model. If I can help in any way I will. Regarding the fender extension I searched and found it on ebay. But did require some research into the actual model year front fenders/mud guards. I believe its the same fit as previous years 2018>2020 (maybe even earlier), So was sure this would fit even though it did not specify 2021. My part is from Pyramid Parts. A brand I have used on my previous bikes. Well made and cant say anything bad about them. It does the job. Let me know if you still have issues and I can see if we can sort it out. But I am sure you will be able to get something sent direct. After all Australia is one of the best ADV biking countries in the world (in my opinion) haha.
Cheers + thanks for hanging around! 🤝
Ric
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373221360334
They do worldwide postage 👍
@@RicardoYeep many thanks for this, I’ll check them out. I live on the Sunshine Coast and all the routes on my doorstep are epic indeed. A few trips north being planned so loads of grins.
Three more nights lol 😂
I believe a best practice is to run the engine up to temperature (or close to) before draining.
Hello mate. Yeah I hear what you say and to be honest have done that too. However The engine has always been hot from the last time I turned it off.... So it would all "already" have drained to the lowest point in the sump. When I drain it off I know most of it will already be there. If I start it up again and run it to temp, then drain it minutes later oild Oil will be freshly dispersed all within the engine.
I agree with you though a lot do run it up first.. I have never been a believer in it making a meterial diff apart from burning fuel. But that is my "own" opinion.. I recommend anyone follow the official manual!
Cheers
Ric
To your point, the manual doesn't actually say to drain the oil hot. It's just something I learned to do some 40 years ago (Yeesh) In fact, they only give a Warning of Scalding. Perhaps there is more liability than it's worth to a manufacturer these days. The manual does recommend draining it on the side stand which is NOT something I have been doing either (whoops).
I just want to say, great video's. I have the 1290 SAR model (2022). Your videos are relevant and often make me wonder if I should have bought the S version. More so with your mods. Keep up the great work!
Thanks mate and yeah I agree on not using the side stand as stated.. Tried that and it gets in the way :( That pesky rear drainer just Pssss oil out everywhere and you cannot get a tray underneath it good enough. I will keep doing mine on the centre anyway :)
Thank you for the feedback too on the vids. Appreciated!
Thank you very much for sharing the videos even if I don't know your language, the images are perfect. Salu2 from your most faithful unfaithful Pako
Hello my friend and thank you for the kind words! I try to keep as simple as I can. And very happy you can still find them useful. It is always a great feeling to hear from someone in another country! Cheers! and thanks for watching my stuff 😊
Cheers 🤝
Ric
Hi Ric, I totally agree with you that an extra oil change after about 2-3000 km above the first service is a very good thing to do. I usually do it when I`m in for rear tire change at 4/5000 km(the gravel is hard on the rear with 160 hp on throttle even with the rally mode on 5/6) I´m sure that it does good for the engine.
About the engine, I wonder if you have noticed any significant difference when you run the engine idling and you draw the clutch, I have a sort of hammering "noice" that disappears when the clutch is drawn and then comes back when I drop the clutch lever. I`ve heard it when I was at the gasstation and was going to leave, through the earplugs it sounded like a little hammer knocking. And yes, I´m aware of Ktm reputation about engine sound and all(990/1190/790) I´ve had sounded like someone has forgotten to fill on the oil, this 1290 adv r too. But this sound was a little bit odd....what`s this..? Have you thought about the same or do I have a failure ? /Staffan
Hey there Staffan! yeah matter of personal choice regarding mid term oil services. But definitely cannot do any harm thats for sure! Although a little more costly!..
As for tyres you mention. I might try out the Pirelli Scorpion Rally STR next. I have been meaning for a while to try them out. The main thing is I dont want to reduce the capability of the performance. Most 50/50 tyre have speed rating max 100mph from what I have seen. However these STR Rally I think are still V rated (upto 149mph). And still quite an aggressive looking tyre to hand mild/moderate (At least dry) off roading. That review is to come when I change tyres.
As for the engine so far I dont hear anything. I will have to intentionally listen now you said it haha. I usually wear earplugs anyway. Also I am used to the Triumph Rattle (Clutch rattle). So I am guessing it may be similar. But will check it out.
Cheers! Ric
@@RicardoYeep I appreciate if you listen to your engine with and without the clutch.
About tyres I´ve used Metzelers Karoo 3 on the 1190 r as for the 790 r for the gravel roads. But for this bike I choose Conti TKC 80 in the front for the grip and Conti TKC 70 Rocks on the rear wheel. The Karoo 3 on the rear had a good grip when it was relatively new but it changed quite a lot after a while. TKC 70 Rocks have a structure that is more consistent against use on the gravel. I have felt less change from the rear despite I´ve ridden 2500 km than what I felt with the Karoo 3.
Yes, I think Rally STR is a capable both for the gravel as for the tarmac./Staffan
Hello Stafan sorry nearly forgot! I just ran the engine and listen carefully without clutch and then I pull the clutch. And this bike had no material change in sound and definitely no knocking or rattle. I am surprised as I have never intentionally tested this sound before and I expected a rattle like my triumph. This bike has to be the smoothest sounding tick over I have heard. Maybe I need to do more miles and it will change? I have 1500 so far.
But to answer no my clutch sounds same with it without pulling the lever. Hope that helps 👍
Thanks
Ric
@@RicardoYeep Thanks for your check, I will call my dealer tomorrow to raise the question/Staffan
Ok mate let me know how you get on and if there is any genuine concern that KTM feel require further investigation 👍
Did u put exactly 3.6 or more?
Top video as usual
Cheers bud 🙏
All the best
Ric
The red oil was Motul - recommended by my KTM dealer (and quite a few who rate it above the Motorex)
Yeah mate is one of those “best tyre” type debates I guess. I kinda see though that being clear (Motorex) versus red there must be some colouring additive though. Which Motorex doesn’t have. And Motorex is the official oil. Unfortunately my purist PIA habit drives me to this at a 30% increase cost 🤦♂️. I always put Castro’s power one in the tiger as that’s theirs lol 😂
Also speaking to my KTM dealer he did say dealers will push whatever they get a greater mark up on…and I really get on with him. And also have history from triumph dealer with a guy now at my KTM dealer that’s moved across. So I trust these guys a lot within reason
I watch one guy dip the bike over a bit to train out more oil never would have thought about that
Hiya mate. Yes have considered that before but already the bike on the centre stand (cant get oil pan under if on the side stand). Also the manual also explains it should be done on the centre stand. After thinking about it. Materially there is there that much to make a difference? probably not. But each to their own. My OCD thankfully only stretches so far haha.
Happy New year! And thanks for the comment and watching :)
Ric
Hi Ric, At 8.17, remove the oil filler cap. Is it normal to have that kind of emulsion attached? Doesn't that mean water mixed with oil?
Hello mate. It’s normal on these. It’s moisture/condensation. Nothing to worry about. To be honest I also was curious when I first saw it. And then asked as you are asking now 👍.
@@RicardoYeep ok 👍
For me to take out the second filter the one closer to the side stand it is impossible to get to… the side stand is blocking the way
Hi there thanks for the comment and watching the video. You are supposed to change the oil on the centre stand as per the manual 👍 hope that helps next time 🙏
Thanks
Ric
@@RicardoYeep hi yes I am but I can’t take out the second filter I have very little space even with side stand back. There is no space for me to use a tool and they have screwed it so hard it is impossible to take out. Doesn’t matter I let it for a while so all the oil goes out and I refilled without taking out that second one
Ricardo buongiorno, al minuto 8:16 del video quando togli il tappo olio si vede una crema gialla di cosa si tratta?
at minute 8:15 you can see condensation in the cap, as if there was water inside the oil. it's normal?
Hiya mate. Is normal once up to temp should go. As you say is condensation. To be fair I never had it on other bikes. However has not been an issue and it’s common from what I hear. 👍
Hi there,
Don't you have to clear the code when you change the oil at a certain mileage? I had a warning ⚠️ when I reached the 1k on my bike, so the KTM dealer serviced my bike. After that, the ⚠️ sign was gone.
Yes the official service interval is set at the dealership after each service. They do this via the computer when plugged into your ECU. However you can change the oil and filter as often as you want but this would be “in addition” to staying with the ktm intervals. You will still get the ktm warning show at the official schedules 👍
Well, I guess there's no avoiding going to the dealership since you need to clear the code. I want to do the oil change myself since I paid C$485 for an oil change. That's bloody expensive.
Great video Ricardo. Do you know how to reset the service interval?
Hello mate thanks for the feedback and glad to hear you found it useful. Yeah sure there is a vid already on service reset in the video section. Here it is anyway. 👍
2021 2022 KTM 1290 Super Adventure SERVICE RESET MENU
czcams.com/video/RuCtVaulOgw/video.html
Très utile, merci,
Merci mon ami pour les commentaires. merci bien! Et merci d’avoir regardé. Bravo Ric!
Merci beaucoup ! :)
Pas de soucis mon ami. S'il te plait est tout à moi ! et merci de bien vouloir regarder et envoyer des messages !
Meilleures salutations
Ric
Awesome
Hi, when you filled with fresh oil, did you have to fill in two stages to allow for the fresh oil to cycle through?
Hello mate. Yeah as usual on bikes got to let it run a little then check, then add and check again. :)
Great video!
Question - how did you delete and reset the service light without connecting a KTM dealer computer?
I just passed my 620 miles mark and want to perform the first service my self (like I’m used to all my life:)
Thanks!
HelloTal,Thaks for the comment and watching the clip :) Please see the link to the video showing how this is done! Cheers Ric
czcams.com/video/RuCtVaulOgw/video.html
Genius! Thanks a lot!! 🙏🏻
@@taldanino99 Anytime mate :)
Hello again Ric, I was to fill up to the level with some oil, when I found that there was a white foam on the cap and around the opening and small traces of water further down, hmm condensation..was my first thought. I rang my dealer who confirmed that he had seen the same in the Ktm 1290 duke. When hot goes to cooler the air within the engine will create condensation. What do you think Ric, is it an reasonable explanation or should I considerate it as a problem that there to some degree is water in the engine oil./S
I have seen it too mate if you look carefully at the part I take the oil filler cap off 8min 16Ssec Initially was taken by surprise. I have cleaned it up and will inspect it again after a few more miles. Something to note. And I too will mention it at the dealers next time. But yes I don’t like the look of it but I’ll just see how it goes for now. The oil remains clear in the filler and the bike seems to run smoothly. But definitely is reassuring you’ve also mentioned it 👍
Watch this space as they say! 🤦♂️
@@RicardoYeep I looked and spot on, exactly so. I was down to my mechanic and he wanted me to come down and show it if it´s coming back. Honestly, don´t know what he can do if it is like he said, condensation..maybe it is only in that horizontally rubber pipe behind the new lower tank which connect to the intake, but as it fills up it must go down to the engine. What about a rubber hose in a drilled hole in the cap to let the warm air out, or is that wrong to do and open up for air to go in to the engine when it´s running.
@@staffannunstedt548 yeah I see what he means if it’s like that then not sure what to do about it or if it’s anything too detrimental to the engine. Obviously water is definitely detrimental but how much would seriously cause a problem) 1 drip per 3.6l of boiling hot oil? I’m no mechanic so best answer probably from them. Personally I don’t think it would be an issue or KTM are putting themselves at millions in warranty claims if it’s a serious failing. There would (I hope) a recall of some nature if so.
I’m at totally against drilling a hole in the cap to reduce condensation. Again I’m no mechanic and not sure how material the effect of any on oil pressure requires within the engine (if at all as I know it gets pumped anyway) but also any Material amount of water getting in if riding in a down pour for long durations or the occasion off road fun (involving water). Definitely no that one here.
I’ll keep my eye on mine and see how it goes but so far nothing to worry about for the time being I think … I hope I am not wrong 🙏😂
@@RicardoYeep yes. a hole in the cap was a very bad idea...and yes, how much of a problem can it be with the same small amount of moisture condensing again and again../S
@@staffannunstedt548 Hello again! yeah its not something that happens on all bikes but from what I have looked up online its seems quite acceptable the info below. Basically nothing to worry about. Only time to worry is when you see water in the oil and I am guessing that would mean a material amount where you seeing and feeling the affect ie head gasket and load of coolant leaking in etc.. Anyway this is what I found so I am not overly concerned as mentioned.
"When the bike sits or is used for short trips in cold, damp weather moisture and unburnt gas collect in the oil and create that white goop. If you take it out for a 30 minute ride and let the oil warm up the gas and moisture will evaporate and the white goop will disappear.
What many riders don't know is that starting your bike during the colder months to charge the battery and circulate the oil will just increase the problem. Every heating and cool-down cycle just adds more condensation. A good rule is "don't start it unless you’re going to ride it"
If you look at the oil and there seems to be a mix in water and oil or something in that nature than that’s when you start to freak out"
Thanks
Ric !
Bonjour merci pour vos vidéos j aimerais savoir exactement où se situe le bon niveau d huile sur la 1290 le mien se situe au milieu du hublot de visualisation entre le niveau A et le niveau C , et ce normal ? Merci
Hello Bernard! To be fair that is ok. Although personally I like more than just “ok” I usually top mine up so that it sits in the middle of the top and mid point. I wouldn’t worry though as long as your within “range”
Hope that helps. However best to read the owners manual too. 👍 just to make sure for yourself also.
All the best
Ric
@@RicardoYeep parfait merci pour ton retour , c'est justement le manuel qui m'a inquiété , il préconise de faire le niveau jusqu'au A. Belle soirée
Is Oil check with cold engine or hot?
Why didnt you like the red stuff?. I guess the old oil would have been Motul 7100 which is bright red.
Hello there. Thanks for watching and the message. As for oil it’s kinda one of those personal choices I guess of which everyone will have their own opinion on this similar to the age old tyre debates..
I choose Motorex primarily as it’s the official oil as is Castrol to triumph (which I use on my tiger)
It is also almost a clear oil which I prefer rather than red coloured. Obviously has more additives.
I am not saying one is better than the other. Definitely not.
But Motorex nearly ticks all my boxes, bike runs as normally expected under all loads and conditions, no adverse loss through heavy days off road riding in nearly 1st and 2nd gear all day. Is a clear finish, official product. Although the negative is cost ! It is expensive 🤦♂️
@@RicardoYeep In my 1190 Adv ive tried Motorex, Fuchs and Motul. I did notice that the gearbox seems to work the best with Motorex, changes are smoother and less notchy. Very expensive oil though!. Im using Motual 7100 for now.
@@ricktonge yeah mate it’s bloody expensive stuff!! And I do interim changes too so adds more cost. But I do agree with you. It was the first thing I did after getting the bike back from the 600 mile service. (They put in motul) which I’m not complaining… it’s just I change it after. And the bike like I say all running is smooth and well. But at a cost 👀
Better to do it on the sidestand, as this allows the oil to drain completely.
You can’t get the oil pan under when the side stand is down. Trust me .. did that first and then checked with KTM and learnt officially it’s meant to be done on centre stand. 👍
The rear sump plug is directly behind side stand.
But agree as all previous bikes ive done on side stand in but not this one
Cheers
Ric
When draining oil put bike on side stand not centre stand this wii make sure most oil is drained. Just tip i was given 👍👍
Hi Gary! Thanks for watching. Yep I too have always done this and did this to start with as is usual on most bikes I’ve owned. Given the location of one if not two of the components needed to be removed if it’s on the side stand you cannot get the oil pan in a suitable place to catch the oil unfortunately unless you make up some form of ducting to guide the oil .. but it will go everywhere. Also if you check the manual it does also state centre stand. So what I have done is by the book. But yes mate I hear you 👍 as have always previously used side stand .
Cheers Rick ! And thanks for the positive comment. Much appreciated 👍
@@RicardoYeep ahh makes sense. Hope your enjoying yours as much as me. My first ktm after years of ducatis so far im loving it . Not so pretty but the riding experience is fantastic. I've done 4k in last 10 wk . Keep the vids coming 👍
Ah same here I love the thing. Been a while since I had the buzz from bike ownership.. feel almost young again 😂.
Wow you’ve definitely been on it! I haven’t done my usual 2k miles a months due to lockdown here in times to recently. And home working. So only 1500 miles on in two months . For now anyway. If we get back to normal I’ll probably have nearly 50k miles in two years so this is a refreshing change!! 👍
And thanks for liking the little videos! Working on stuff at the moments 🤝
Interesting. You did it with cold engine?
Hello Baron! Thanks for the comment and was expecting something of that nature! Yes the initial drain was indeed on a cold engine. Cold being 21c ambient temperature while doing it. So not in the middle of winter. The fact the bike has been sat there all night means that all the oil will have already drained to the lowest part (SUMP). So is immediately in situ to run out of the drain plug. If I start the bike up then all the oil will be pumped around the bike and then start its way south to be drained out.
You can google it to confirm for yourself but the only benefit of running your engine (as per the manual) to operating temperature prior to draining is that warm oil will drain faster. Arguably it will also detach itself from parts of the internals engine better also and work its way south. So basically more so a matter of drain speed.
At the end of the day the fact is whatever is in will always come out. And that is what is being replaced. The main thing is running the bike afterwards up to temp and then letting it settle so you get a true reading of what the real reading is. And then top up accordingly. As Oil will need to fill the filter that has been replaced and all the other voids created when the oil was drained.
I have been doing my own services for years (in addition to dealership ones just to get the warranty stamps). And my bikes have always performed and ran A1 even doing 22,000 "miles" not "Km" per year.
Cheers again!!
Ric
@@RicardoYeep Hi mate :-) Many thanks for great explanation. I looking forward for your next excelent video!!
Hello, infiel Ricardo you have a link or ref of the oil filter kit and air filter. Thank you.
Salu2 from your most faithful unfaithful Pako
Hello mate! Thanks for the message ! I’ve thrown my bits away but basically they are direct from KTM. All oem stuff I get from KTM. I can find the part numbers for you but probably best and easier you get them from where you bought the bike from if you can ?
Thanks again as always!
Ric
@@RicardoYeep Good cheating Ricardo said so in case you asked for the Internet. Thank you.
Salu2 from your most faithful unfaithful Pako
Hi. I own 2020 SDGT and I just changed the oil and I found som metal shavings in the strainer of the oil draining plug. I took some pictures of it. I don't know how serious it that and I was wondering if you wouldn't mind to take a quick look at it and maybe give me some advice?
Hi Tom, Thanks for getting in touch! And sorry to hear there is possibly some cause for concern. I say possiby as that is what these drainers/filters are for (to collect debris). I too would be concerned to find metal shavings! If it were on my bike A) If under warranty still then get it logged with KTM that you have raised this with them. B) If you are out of warranty the next step "I" would do is change both oil and filter and run it for another 500 miles providing the bike seemed to run ok. And then check the filter again but I emphasize that is me on my own bike and "not saying this is what you should do". (if you drain the new oil into a new clean pan then should be fine to put back in (I use expensive Motorex Powersynth so I am not throwing that after 500 miles). If still clean then again periodic checks after another 500 miles... If all ok I would be fine and put it down to possibly running in/bedding in wear that was not drained during the first service... Its normal possibilty.
You have not mentioned how many miles you have on the bike, is it the first time these filters have been out since the initial 600 mile service etc? The long and short is KTM first port of call.. Trust me, you wont be their first customer in their professional career to have presented something like this. They will best advise on options... then up to you if you wish to take them up on this or are forced to conduct a self diagnosis (ie at your cost if not under warranty).
Apologies if not the solution you were after. I am not a trained tech and am always aprehensive when asked for "advice" on problems. I would only say what I would do on my own machine. Not wanting to open myself up to potential litigation which I hope you understand.
Cheers
Ric
@@RicardoYeep Thanks mate, that was helpful👍 The bike is still under warranty until April. I will logg it with KTM. And I'll check the strainer after 500 miles. The previous service was at 4000 miles in 2021 and since then I've done 7500miles. So far I didn't notice any any issues with the engine🤞
Hi Rick,
What do you paid for a annual service at your dealer? I have received some quotations and are about €250 incl VAT. But I only see a oil change on the spec they sent with Motorex oil. I personally like Motul 7100 10w50, and is also a bit cheaper. What price you think is fair for oil change - and note I only do it just like you to get the stamp in the digital file of my KTM
Hiya mate.. pretty much a ball park similar figure. Just breaking it down your talking a 1hr labour at around £84 then if you have motorex like I do then that’s another £70 approx (don’t remember price but bloody expensive oil). Then I think also oil filter (not oil filter kit with mesh set). And Air Filter. This all adds up to around £200, labour also includes the time checking over brakes and components… so in short yeah about the same. Don’t forget you’ll be plugged into ktm and receive any software updates needed too which you wouldn’t get doing yourself.
Bulk of cost is labour and motorex 👍 but as you also said.. I want to keep my warranty too 😂 hope that helps. Cheers Ric
@@RicardoYeep thanks - my dealer has 1,5hr in his quotation at a rate of €100 incl vat. I asked him to not use Motorex but Motul 7100 as I do not believe the price difference is fair with Motorex. I do not think it is more than 1 hr job and when motor is out of the 2y guarantee I am going to replace the oil myself and filters and will only go to KTM dealer every maintenance in about 15.000km. Oil and filters are upmost important to change every year I believe at last once a year!
@@foggydutch7412 no worries. Oil you should be able to choose. As for labour I may be 1.5hrs I’m not in servicing but just gave an idea of labour rates. They may need your bike to cools down for a bit before draining it if you’ve ridden there as everything Will be red hot. This is their time too so easily overlooked . Time your bike is with them.. = time they are not working on another bike. As said seems a reasonable price overall for a main dealer service. But definitely to save a few euros you can go motul… 👍
Ah, I knew I'd seen red oil before, I think they used Castrol Power 1 Racing Engine Oil 10W-50 4T ;-)
Yes mate. Also possibly Motul 7100 10w-50 4T Fully Synthetic. Also bright red, And approx £47,95 versus Motorex Power Synt 10-50 approx £70 (Both 4 litres). Even castrol Power 1 Racin 4T is around £45. Also a lot cheaper than the Motorex. Which I am guessing why Motorex was not put in at 1st service. By no means do I say any is better than the other. However Motorex is in it now and Motorex is the official oil as stamped on the engine casing. 😊.. cheers Ric
@@RicardoYeep Do not know in this case but normally there is a mineral run-in oil, it is allowed to wear down the piston rings to get bed in with cylinder walls to a perfect seal, the "bad" oil prevent cylinders from glazing, fully synthetic oil can not do this as it is too good.
Therefore, do not drive too long with this oil... nor too short :)
Hello Dang! Thanks mate got the positive comments and helpful information. Yes I agree and is correct. that is why the first service is carried out at 1000km or 618 miles by the dealership. They then put fully synthetic oil in the bike afterward. 👍
The next service interval is 10,000. But for me this is too long. I always do an oil change mid term. 👍
I used Motorex PowerSynt as per the recommended by KTM. Which is what i put in the bike after the dealer already removed the running in oil. Motorex should be crystal clear in colour. no (red) colouring. So I know my dealer used something else. Its a matter of idividual choice but I am a bit of a purist and will use what is stamped on the engine casing so Motorex it is :)
Cheers
Ric
@@RicardoYeep The Castrol, although the same spec as the Motorex, is half the price, so a dealer might be using that for cost reasons. Anyway, mine goes in Monday, shall see what they put in.
Absolutely mate 👍 definitely cost saving from a dealer pint of view. As you say it’s the same spec so it’s fine to use. But being half the price some part of me can’t help but think there must be something about the refining process being a little bit more. To hopefully justify the cost. I know a bike will run on unleaded or super unleaded so this is possible a similar scenario. One is a little less impurities even though both meet spec 🤔. Or simply those with money to burn waste it on Motorex 😂. Who knows. I cant say one is better than the other. I’m just happy to use Motorex 👍
If it’s red.. it isn’t Motorex lol
Io ho fatto il mio secondo tagliando 30000 km.alla mia ktm1290s però mentre aprivo il tappo per l'immissione di olio nuovo ho trovato della poltiglia giallastra . Se ci fosse qualcuno che mi fa capire se mi devo preoccupare o è normale.grazie