Surface Prep | Latex Repaint Over Oil
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- čas přidán 26. 12. 2018
- Prep2Finish's Scott Burt reviews the steps for prepping 18-year-old doors with oil-based finish for a latex repaint.
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Thanks for the video
Great tips Scott!🔥😎
Thanks Paul, hope all is well with you! Happy Holidays!
I made a quick video with different method video here. I had oil base on a ceiling i also show you how to tell if you have oil or Waterbased.
czcams.com/video/Vl5hclfO2bU/video.html quick fix
Thanks scott
Would this be the same process for latex over a danish oil finish?
what about using deglosser?
What should I do to paint over a bathroom painted in oil base..sand it then prime it then latex paint?
@The Good Life Oh darn ! Good luck.
Not sure if you are referring to walls or trim but generally yes, a good degrease/clean, scuff sand vigorously, clean thoroughly, prime and paint.
How much price
Hi, my bathroom cabinet’s original paint is an oil base if I want to change it to water base do I need to use a water base primer or oil base primer ? Because the trim was an oil base so I used a water base primer and then water base paint but after two months if I scratch it the paint peels. would you please tell me why ?
It sound like you had an adhesion problem. It is critical to degrease the surface, scuff sand vigorously and clean thoroughly when doing a product conversion. You can do it with oil based primer or a good high adhesion latex primer as long as the prep is thorough.
You need an oil based primer.
Also depends on the paint used. A latex primer was used in the video going over oil-based doors that were thoroughly sanded.
aren't you suppose to put an oil base primer ( instead of latex primer ) then latex paint?
You are right, using latex primer over oil is a recipe for disaster. Someone from APC should review this and take this down before they screw people over.
That's what i do , Zinsser Coverstain .
We have a unique problem. Someone previously used latex over oil in some areas of our home, specifically on bookshelves, desks, and doors and maybe some trim. And it’s peeling right off, however, there’s no way to remove all of it or even most of it. Sanding would not work. That would just make the surface lumpy and gummy. Do we just prime over it and repaint and hope it works??
Sand some more
@@lexandersantana8089 lol...unfortunatly i have to do the same, but good answer...sand some more
@@doi467 Sometimes, using a heat gun or hair dryer to "shock" the latex paint will help break its bond. Oil paint is rather brittle and hard and does not want to move. Latex paint expands rapidly under the heat and often the bond will be broken, leaving the oil intact.
Another thing that often will help break the bond is pressing down firmly on the surface with a putty knife. The physical downward pressure will help break the bond. You will be dragging the knife backwards, not pushing it forward, as in scraping. You do not want to gouge the wood, as scraping often does.
I'll start by saying the maintenance men of my landlord needs beat! They painted over all the dirt greese & whatever else the hoarding lady that lived here previously had on them. The paint is now peeling off where the yuck was that they didnt clean off. Also they replaced some of cabinet doors & drawer fronts with cheap particleboard. Any ideas how to fix the problem on a very limited income, I'm disabled & need easy ideas!
PLEASE HELP!
We're sorry to hear that the prep on the original job was done poorly.These can be difficult problems to fix once the coating starts to fail. The best option would be to contact a professional painting contractor to properly prep and paint. A pro will be able to assess the problem and solution.
@@AmericanPaintingContractor I rent and from a property manager who...obviously...doesn't care "how" things are fixed.....just that they are. I'd have to pay out of pocket & on a fixed income. So I have come to a couple ideas. Wall paper,, or some cheap lanolium glued to them. Just a couple new "bandaids" I thought about. We dont intend on moving again, so I figure I'll put out what little money I can.
🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔🤔
Comments welcome. Thank you sir for answering me!
I accidentally painted with a oil base prime and I have latex cabinet paint -- what do I do now?
You’ll be just fine
@@TheMwasson Yep, worked out fine.
Just happened on too your channel. Certainly always taking out the shin. Aren't there some higher end primers that do a better transition coat? Our even a waterborne alkaline
Not sure what would need to be better or more high end...what you are looking for in a bridge primer coat is adhesion, reasonable dry time, sandability and a good base for the next coat. Sure, it is always possible to spend more and feel like you are getting more, but the proof has been in this particular pudding hundreds of times for us.
@@ScottBurt thanks Scott I have done as you depicted in the video. Just looking at different option. Thanks again
Hey professionals. Don't lean doors on walls standing up. They will warp. Lean them sideways
)
Today's 100% acrylic paints can have adhesion without a primer if the paint is good shape, clean and has been dulled. I was raised on oil paint and saw what happened during the transition to "latex" paints that originally actually had latex resin in them, then acetates and other lesser resins. - peeling over oil substrates. I have created test woodwork casings with high gloss oil paint or varnish as the substrate , and then applied acrylic based trim paint directly to them. After a couple days of curing ( not fully cured) I invite customers to try to scrape the acrylic paint off. they can't! BTW, most of those dedicated water based primers are also acrylic based.
Hi David. Great comment, you sound like you know your onions about paints and coatings. I have a small blog about industrial and residential painting, and I'm wondering if you'd be interested in writing blog posts for me?
@@raliev2853 I wouldn't mind. Over the years, I have contributed several thousand posts to the This Old House advice blog ( which unfortunately has rather died), and the Home Depot "Ask An Expert" blog on their web page. At age 79, I am working full time at the Paint Desk at my local Home Depot. I was a life long painting contractor, as was my father and Danish grandfather. I was raised on oil paints in the 50's and have lived through the transition to today's water borne paints. Home Depot is my "retirement job" :) I have been a "doubting Thomas" much of the time as to "latex" paints, but have pretty much been won over to water borne. In any event, the writing is on the was as to high VOC solvent paints.
Obviously, I am best versed in the line of Behr and PPG products feathered at Home Depot. During my contracting years, which I have been away from for 17 years now, I was primarily a user of Benjamin Moore paints.
Is the key waiting the 3 day cure or using trim paint? Mines peeling even after a thorough sanding
@@coletteohara2863 After even 24 hours, a quality 100% acrylic paint should be adhering.. What brand and quality level of paint are you using? You can't just depend on the name brand of paint. All the major manufacturers have multiple qualities, from "contractor's grade" to really good trim enamels.
Good question, it's Valspar from Lowes. Probably mid level. Any brand you would suggest?
Bro you have to use an oil based primer over oil based paint if you are switching to water based 😂 what a hack
This video should be taken down. The primer Scott decided to use is a all purpose latex primer, latex over oil is a disaster, and it's not even a bonding primer. It seem like he was afraid to use shellac based or oil based primer like cover stain which is high bond and not water based on his new handheld Graco. He went with sherwin williams cheapest water based latex primer just to record a video. If you decide to follow this guy, make sure you test a section first, give it a scratch and it'll come off. There will be no bond. APC shame on you for not catching this, you should be 'the standards'
Stop the music!
water based paints will never be as good as oil i would never use water paints on interior woodwork metal work it won't hold up
Gee, I have 23 year old water based woodwork in my house that still looks great! And guess what, it hasn't yellowed! And yes, I am a retired painting contractor of 4 decades who was raised on oil trim paint.
Half way through painting 30 sash windows in 90 year old house. Only previous paint original and 40 year old oil repaint, which was in good condition, except where movement occurred at joins, it cracked off, and if exposed to sun, the paint mostly disappeared.
@@warrenklein7817 for exterior woodwork the best stuff is traditonal linseed oil paint flexible and completely breathable wont trap moisture the original paint would be linseed paint
"Never" is a long time!. A little dogmatic are we? Acrylic paints are actually far superior in some instances, such as exterior house paints, which are much more elastic and permeable than oil paints. They also don't yellow, as do most oil paints. Granted, the fast drying water borne paints are harder to brush, but when sprayed will rival an oil finish.
@@nejdro1 acrylic paints are no good for exterior woodwork again neither are solvent oil paints linseed paints should be the only the paint used on exterior woodwork plastic paints will rot timber when used outside or flake off due to trapped moisture. acrylic paints aint breathable their flexible but not enough for exterior woodwork
Don’t use latex paint. Pay the extra few bucks for 100% acrylic paint .
There hasn't been a "latex" paint on the market for probably 50 years. Todays's premium paints are generally 100 % acrylic based. Lesser paints will have acetate resins or mixtures thereof, and usually cheaper pigments, rather than titanium Dioxide as the white pigment.