Experienced table saw users are having accidents all the time. My Dad's old belt drive table saw that I used for years was easy to control if you were ripping a piece of wood and it jammed, the belts slipped and no big deal. These powerful direct drive saws are not so forgiving. I had to break my hand on a kickback to gain respect for my new table saw. I am happy to spend money on anything to make my table saw safer. Thanks for a great review and I will be getting one of these.
Got mine on a special several years ago, still use it along with my other push sticks. Love it enough that I got one for my family member who has done construction for a longtime. Saw him using his job site table saw one day, immediately went out and got him one and showed him how to use it. He likes it also - so much safer than what he was doing. As for the cost, $60 in world of woodworking is nothing for safety.
I got mine in the mail today. It is well built and looks like it will be easy to adjust. I am very impressed so far and it’s made in the UNITED STATES.
The main issue I have with this tool, is that you have to have the safety shield on the table saw OFF. You removed the shield for the benefit of showing the cut. Charles Neil, Norm Abram, and any other wood working show does the same. My insurance agent clearly told me that any injury would not be covered if I removed any safety device off any power tool. I showed this tool to her... She reinforced her statement. If they make one to go over a safety shield, I will get one.
I just purchased the 100. After watching a couple of reviews and the training vids by Microjig I think I will spring for a second one. Yes. They are expensive. But. A trip to Urgent Care for a common cold is $125. No surgery, no anesthesiologist, no stitches, no down-time. I mean. I'm running a power-tool that doesn't give a rip (pun intended) about flesh and bone vs. oak and plywood. I ran a open-bed CNC metal lathe for 9 years with few accidents...very few. Why? Because I respected the machine and considered it a beast with no forgiveness for complacency. I paid $64 at a Woodcraft outlet and that included tax. I consider it money well-spent and I haven't even used it yet. I decided to drop the hammer after asking a professional his opinion and his response was that he uses his all the time. If I was undecided that certainly sold me. Thanks for the objective review and the excellent demo.
I got a Grripper for Christmas, love it so much that I ordered another one just so I can do the cross hand push for longer pieces. Yes they pricey, but they are a huge improvement for my table saw, can't say enough good things for it.
I went to The Woodworking Show three years before I finally bought the Grrr-Ripper. It was (and still is, in my opinion) a bit pricey. The thing that sold me was the demo guy actually cut a 1/16" strip with it. When I got it home and tried it out, I was sold! I rarely do a table saw operation now without it.
Work so well, I got two of them. So much better than the old push sticks. The only pain point is they do require setup/adjustment for almost every cut you make. They are also super handy for the router table.
I am here because Steve Ramsey referred me. Very nice additional instruction after his introduction of the Gripper. God job...very informative and detailed demo. ...Thank you ?...Larry in New Hampshire
I like your Archer Tshirt After that demo i have to go out and get me a Micro-Jig now,,, I`m always making those close call cuts that scare the hell out of me... Thanks for sharing.
Archer! Love that show. Also, I ordered a GRR-Ripper a few days ago and should be receiving it today. I can't wait to try it out. $60 is a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER!
such an amazing tool. since i cut myself reaching behind, i have been a little scared of the saw, now i thing i can get back into it without the apprehension
I bought a pair at the Woodworking Show several years ago, and love them. The only comment is to make sure you tighten things down well before cutting. Getting into the blade is not the time to find out you forgot that little detail. Oops!
@8:17 That's what I think I first used my gripper for.I needed to cut some 1/4" strips of oak for a jewelry box I was making.Instead of running to Lowes to get some 1/4" oak stock, I made own with some extra oak from the project.
@smfield because I try not to do things on the show that require a specific type of push stick to do, like for small/thin repetitive cuts. So I will come up with a shop-made solution for it. But left to my own devices with no camera on, I use the GRR-Ripper to solve lots of cutting dilemmas at the tablesaw.
It's important to keep track of our tools but even more important to use them safely. I'm glad you didn't claim it was just the latest version of a Saw Stop. I'm a retired Orthopedic Surgeon and oversights like this cost me many evenings and week ends completing amputations and performing reconstructive surgery. Wrench + spinning saw blade could have produced a crushed face, eye injury, or traumatic brain injury. Was your solution to put a magnet on the opposite of the fence ?
Some people get hurt no matter what they use ( roll eyes ). I just bought a gripper. See how it works. Looks great in videos. Just looking at it maybe it’s too complicated. Will see.
Riving Knife should not be in line with saw blade though +- 0.3/0.6 mm to the right slightly outside the saw blade. PS it is best to make a Riving Knife from spring material BV. aluminium. And the wood remains pressed against the guide and the rest of the wood remains clamped in place against the guide and cannot shoot away, no kickback saw wood ((I've had it like this for years and it works perfectly all the time) ) win win situation .
Why would you use a push stick while the piece is hanging over the table edge like you demonstrated. Yes sticks aren't as safe as the gripper but you don't have to exaggerate the way you use other methods.
Great product for sure. Just to be clear not many woodworkers would use a push stick on a long piece of stock before a cut. Except when it starts passing over the table towards the blade. Thanks
I'm interested in buying one, but the latest model + shipping to Europe will cost $113.. microjig should really review their pricing. I'm willing to pay for quality but this is insane...
@LFWOL well every cut will be different. I still use my featherboards and the GRR-Ripper is just one of the tools in my arsenal. So while it may prevent you from having to use a featherboard on some cuts, I probably wouldn't throw away my featherboard any time soon. :) I like having options.
I'm sold...I'm buying at least one. So I see no blade guard is used and I don't see how you could use it anyways so the GRR-Ripper must be safe because your hands push down on the wood and this should prevent kick backs right? Sorry I'm just so new to table saws that I don't get anything wrong when it comes to safety. Sled for crosscuts + GRR-Ripper for ripping(and all kinds of other cuts) = pretty dam awesome sounding to me. Thanks again man for your vid tuts.
I'm not saying the Grr-ripper isn't worth the money or saying that the others are just as good, but the push sticks you say tend to push the back edge down allowing the front to kick up only do so when the trailing edge of the board has not yet reached the table. That's just common sense and really isn't an argument against them. The one you sell on your website as well as the one I designed and use allow you to apply downward pressure towards the front of the board which greatly reduces the chance of the board lifting. In addition, when using the skinny push sticks, most people use two of them, the second one towards the leading edge of the board to hold it down as is passes the blade.
Actually that IS an argument against them and you made the argument yourself. You say that the type you designed keeps the front of the board from lifting. That's the exact phenomenon I'm talking about when you use a stick that only pushes the back end of the board. Even if the entire board is on the table, the front of the board can still list. Very valid argument against them.
Late reply. I agree, if you use just one push stick at the rear, you're inviting trouble. But like I said at the end of my comment, most people, (that I know of anyway), that use the skinny push sticks use two of them; one towards the front to hold the board down, and one at the rear to push the wood through. Then again, if you use the blade guard with the anti-kickback pawls, the front of the board will have a difficult time lifting and one push stick at the rear should be sufficient. Again, I have nothing against the Grr-ripper, and I plan on buying one eventually, but I was taught over 45 years ago that you NEVER use just one push stick when you're not using the blade guard.
@jdstone67 I think its safe to say that a safety devise used incorrectly is probably worse than using no safety devise at all. But how about that Brett guard? I love mine. People don't talk about it much but I think its the best guard on the market.
@Makeshiftweapons2XL well, this isn't exactly the best place for that type of conversation. But I can recommend an excellent book on the topic. Its called Taunton's Illustrated Guide to the Tablesaw. You may also consider looking into a local class in your area so you can get a little hands-on instruction. That way you can start off with safe habits and keep your fingers for the rest of your life. :)
I felt uncomfortable through the whole video waiting for that wrench to fall off your fence and strike your saw blade. I understand that you can't use the gripper with a saw guard but a wrench on your fence ? Details ! Details !
Does one only use this when making narrow rips? I can't see using it for ripping down plywood. If so, kind of limited use for the price. Also, if your making multiple narrow rips, use a thin rip jig instead, much safer anyways. $0.02
12:10 seems quite dangerous. in that sitation you're putting quite a lot of pressure. I'm afraid if something goes wrong the saw will cut that ripper and your hands easily
Well, you see there's a wrench on my fence. So.. :) Actually that's just the wrench for blade changes. I used to leave it there occasionally but for obvious safety reasons, I no longer do that.
Wow what an amazing tool... After listening to how unsafe all the alternative methods are I certainly wouldn't feel safe using any woodworking machinery without one... And I am sure your sponsors would be very happy to hear that... Hmmmmm
please learn to be safe then, without this. if you only feel safe because of this tool you are not qualified to use power tools. Then, after that, buy this tool.
I watched your video and went to amazon and ordered it. I have a question about that rip fence of your, can you share some info about it? I have a Skil 3410 t. saw and really hate that hard to lock do rip fence. Well that's all for now I'm off to subscribe to you. :-)Bill in Las Vegas
Bought one yesterday. Right out of the box, ripping maple, gripper wouldn't push without slipping so cut had burn marks and blade marks. Very disappointed.
Most of us are not machining little 12-18" pieces of wood. Please demonstrate with a 8-10' piece of lumber or with full size sheet good.....this product sounds good for the home hobbyist
it's not meant to replace other pushblocks... it was invented to use for the smaller cuts the guy was making at the time and was frustrated that he couldn't make safe cuts on the small stock and didn't like wasting wood. you simply wouldn't use it for anything other than when it gets down to a point where it makes sense to use.
the company ad shows some larger stock. Id say it is only currently worth the price if you have an apprentice doing many small cuts for projects. This will help a less experienced person get the accuracy and safety you want. Til it comes down in price tho it will be hard for anyone with real experience to shell that dough.
I am almost willing to pay for it to put in the classroom so we can see what is possible with such a tool, but it is still objectively too much for what it is, physically. Just compare what else you can buy for the price. My cast iron belt drive rockwell beaver tablesaw cost me about 30 bucks. Most people buy em for 80, and a new jobsite lightweight tablesaw is as little as 120, to around 300 depending on brand. If you honestly think a piece of plastic should cost half a tablesaw, you are one easy sucker to rope in. Not saying you shouldnt buy it, but if you do, please admit at the very least that you are paying a premium for being an early entry buyer. Sadly, even years later, this is strill an early entry purchase, as no other competitors have emerged that i can see.
@TheWoodWhisperer Infomercials have people doing things wrong intentionally to make a point. like you did with the different push tools you have. i was trying to be funny but i failed. youtube search "doing it wrong" and watch the tribute. youll see what i mean.
AFAIK, he gave you a shout out in a couple of videos. BTW, much respect for contributing to Steve's saw. That's probably the most awesome thing I've seen on CZcams.
you dont have to wait, the vids already exist. it is an amazing tool, but until they drp the price it is objectively over-priced. Think with your brain., not your heart. its a tool not a lover.
It may be a good tool, but it kind of feels like you are inventing issues at the beginning. You show awful push stick technique by applying it too early so the work piece tips up. You would get exactly the same issue if you insisted on applying the gripper before the edge of the table.
Two simple wooden pushsticks that you make yourself. That's pretty much it. Since the company is giving away so many of these things to youtube woodworkers it is unlikely to hear a bad review of it. I'm not presuming you got your for free, of course. But Matthias Wandel explained it pretty well.
You dont need to be an expert to be safe on a tablesaw for most cuts. OP is not saying it wouldnt be nice to have, hes saying the markup over the products actual value of material and workmanship is high. He is objectively right, and he will be proved right as other companies release competition and microjig is ofrced to make a more reasonable pricepoint. Just because you are willing to pay for it doesnt make it a good value. I am almost willing to pay for it to put in the classroom so we can see what is possible with such a tool, but it is still objectively too much for what it is, physically. Just compare what else you can buy for the price. My cast iron belt drive rockwell beaver tablesaw cost me about 30 bucks. Most people buy em for 80, and a new jobsite lightweight tablesaw is as little as 120, to around 300 depending on brand. If you honestly think a piece of plastic should cost half a tablesaw, you are one easy sucker to rope in. Not saying you shouldnt buy it, but if you do, please admit at the very least that you are paying a premium for being an early entry buyer.
It’s a good investment. I use mine for multiple power tools to save fingers and use it on various sizes and stages of machining, jointing, and ripping stock. It’s been around for a while and is a good mature product. If you saw off some of a foot it’s easy to repair. A pair of them has come in really handy for long stock.
Experienced table saw users are having accidents all the time. My Dad's old belt drive table saw that I used for years was easy to control if you were ripping a piece of wood and it jammed, the belts slipped and no big deal. These powerful direct drive saws are not so forgiving. I had to break my hand on a kickback to gain respect for my new table saw. I am happy to spend money on anything to make my table saw safer. Thanks for a great review and I will be getting one of these.
Got mine on a special several years ago, still use it along with my other push sticks. Love it enough that I got one for my family member who has done construction for a longtime. Saw him using his job site table saw one day, immediately went out and got him one and showed him how to use it. He likes it also - so much safer than what he was doing. As for the cost, $60 in world of woodworking is nothing for safety.
I've had a gripper for a few years, but it was still great to "go back" and review a few things for safety! Thanks DD!
I got mine in the mail today. It is well built and looks like it will be easy to adjust. I am very impressed so far and it’s made in the UNITED STATES.
The main issue I have with this tool, is that you have to have the safety shield on the table saw OFF. You removed the shield for the benefit of showing the cut. Charles Neil, Norm Abram, and any other wood working show does the same. My insurance agent clearly told me that any injury would not be covered if I removed any safety device off any power tool. I showed this tool to her... She reinforced her statement. If they make one to go over a safety shield, I will get one.
Just cot mine and used it for a day. There is a before and after with this thing. It’s the kind of gear I regret not getting earlier. GET IT
I just purchased the 100. After watching a couple of reviews and the training vids by Microjig I think I will spring for a second one. Yes. They are expensive. But. A trip to Urgent Care for a common cold is $125. No surgery, no anesthesiologist, no stitches, no down-time. I mean. I'm running a power-tool that doesn't give a rip (pun intended) about flesh and bone vs. oak and plywood. I ran a open-bed CNC metal lathe for 9 years with few accidents...very few. Why? Because I respected the machine and considered it a beast with no forgiveness for complacency.
I paid $64 at a Woodcraft outlet and that included tax. I consider it money well-spent and I haven't even used it yet. I decided to drop the hammer after asking a professional his opinion and his response was that he uses his all the time. If I was undecided that certainly sold me. Thanks for the objective review and the excellent demo.
I got a Grripper for Christmas, love it so much that I ordered another one just so I can do the cross hand push for longer pieces. Yes they pricey, but they are a huge improvement for my table saw, can't say enough good things for it.
I went to The Woodworking Show three years before I finally bought the Grrr-Ripper. It was (and still is, in my opinion) a bit pricey. The thing that sold me was the demo guy actually cut a 1/16" strip with it. When I got it home and tried it out, I was sold! I rarely do a table saw operation now without it.
Work so well, I got two of them. So much better than the old push sticks. The only pain point is they do require setup/adjustment for almost every cut you make. They are also super handy for the router table.
I am here because Steve Ramsey referred me. Very nice additional instruction after his introduction of the Gripper. God job...very informative and detailed demo. ...Thank you ?...Larry in New Hampshire
I like your Archer Tshirt
After that demo i have to go out and get me a Micro-Jig now,,, I`m always making those close call cuts that scare the hell out of me... Thanks for sharing.
Archer! Love that show. Also, I ordered a GRR-Ripper a few days ago and should be receiving it today. I can't wait to try it out. $60 is a lot cheaper than a trip to the ER!
I bought one a while back and so far it is as advertised. Keep the videos coming!
such an amazing tool. since i cut myself reaching behind, i have been a little scared of the saw, now i thing i can get back into it without the apprehension
I bought a pair at the Woodworking Show several years ago, and love them. The only comment is to make sure you tighten things down well before cutting. Getting into the blade is not the time to find out you forgot that little detail. Oops!
@8:17 That's what I think I first used my gripper for.I needed to cut some 1/4" strips of oak for a jewelry box I was making.Instead of running to Lowes to get some 1/4" oak stock, I made own with some extra oak from the project.
That piece is a template to make sacrificial pieces so you can make multiple cuts with mfd.
Thanks for your excellent demonstration very well explained
@smfield because I try not to do things on the show that require a specific type of push stick to do, like for small/thin repetitive cuts. So I will come up with a shop-made solution for it. But left to my own devices with no camera on, I use the GRR-Ripper to solve lots of cutting dilemmas at the tablesaw.
Been considering this for a while....I'm sold. Thanks for the nice video....
It's important to keep track of our tools but even more important to use them safely. I'm glad you didn't claim it was just the latest version of a Saw Stop. I'm a retired Orthopedic Surgeon and oversights like this cost me many evenings and week ends completing amputations and performing reconstructive surgery. Wrench + spinning saw blade could have produced a crushed face, eye injury, or traumatic brain injury. Was your solution to put a magnet on the opposite of the fence ?
Best and safe adding tool ! Now I have two!
Some people get hurt no matter what they use ( roll eyes ).
I just bought a gripper. See how it works. Looks great in videos. Just looking at it maybe it’s too complicated. Will see.
@smokes00 its amazing how different some things are in the US vs overseas. Sliding tables and dado blades for instance.
Instead of buying all those plastic tabs to cut through could you cut some out of hardwood?
Riving Knife should not be in line with saw blade though
+- 0.3/0.6 mm to the right slightly outside the saw blade. PS it is best to make a Riving Knife from spring material BV. aluminium. And the wood remains pressed against the guide and the rest of the wood remains clamped in place against the guide and cannot shoot away, no kickback saw wood ((I've had it like this for years and it works perfectly all the time) ) win win situation .
Thanks I just pick one up and love your channel. Thanks for the info.
Why would you use a push stick while the piece is hanging over the table edge like you demonstrated. Yes sticks aren't as safe as the gripper but you don't have to exaggerate the way you use other methods.
Better wishes for this new year and kind regards from France!!
@Mopardude I don't see why not.
Im with you Mark. I dont own one yet but its in the works.
The GRR-Ripper is expensive, but worth every penny. Better control and cleaner cuts, Every shop should have them..
Great product for sure. Just to be clear not many woodworkers would use a push stick on a long piece of stock before a cut. Except when it starts passing over the table towards the blade. Thanks
Awesome review thanks for sharing Mate
I'm interested in buying one, but the latest model + shipping to Europe will cost $113.. microjig should really review their pricing. I'm willing to pay for quality but this is insane...
A lot of that is your government tax level. Its lie everything else from what I see.
it will drop when competitors enter the market. This is currently an early entry purchase
If you hit your hand on a table saw it will be significantly more expensive and life altering than $113. I would still buy at that price.
@@jaednhowlar2359 this video is 9 years old and still no competition. I guess with patents
awesome review thanks Mate
@LFWOL well every cut will be different. I still use my featherboards and the GRR-Ripper is just one of the tools in my arsenal. So while it may prevent you from having to use a featherboard on some cuts, I probably wouldn't throw away my featherboard any time soon. :) I like having options.
@NinjaTurtleNerd Not really sure what you mean?
so 1/4" is the smallest you can cut?
Thank you
I'm sold...I'm buying at least one. So I see no blade guard is used and I don't see how you could use it anyways so the GRR-Ripper must be safe because your hands push down on the wood and this should prevent kick backs right? Sorry I'm just so new to table saws that I don't get anything wrong when it comes to safety.
Sled for crosscuts + GRR-Ripper for ripping(and all kinds of other cuts) = pretty dam awesome sounding to me.
Thanks again man for your vid tuts.
I'm not saying the Grr-ripper isn't worth the money or saying that the others are just as good, but the push sticks you say tend to push the back edge down allowing the front to kick up only do so when the trailing edge of the board has not yet reached the table. That's just common sense and really isn't an argument against them. The one you sell on your website as well as the one I designed and use allow you to apply downward pressure towards the front of the board which greatly reduces the chance of the board lifting. In addition, when using the skinny push sticks, most people use two of them, the second one towards the leading edge of the board to hold it down as is passes the blade.
Actually that IS an argument against them and you made the argument yourself. You say that the type you designed keeps the front of the board from lifting. That's the exact phenomenon I'm talking about when you use a stick that only pushes the back end of the board. Even if the entire board is on the table, the front of the board can still list. Very valid argument against them.
Late reply. I agree, if you use just one push stick at the rear, you're inviting trouble. But like I said at the end of my comment, most people, (that I know of anyway), that use the skinny push sticks use two of them; one towards the front to hold the board down, and one at the rear to push the wood through. Then again, if you use the blade guard with the anti-kickback pawls, the front of the board will have a difficult time lifting and one push stick at the rear should be sufficient. Again, I have nothing against the Grr-ripper, and I plan on buying one eventually, but I was taught over 45 years ago that you NEVER use just one push stick when you're not using the blade guard.
I'm just here to check out your Archer shirt.
@jdstone67 I think its safe to say that a safety devise used incorrectly is probably worse than using no safety devise at all. But how about that Brett guard? I love mine. People don't talk about it much but I think its the best guard on the market.
@Makeshiftweapons2XL well, this isn't exactly the best place for that type of conversation. But I can recommend an excellent book on the topic. Its called Taunton's Illustrated Guide to the Tablesaw. You may also consider looking into a local class in your area so you can get a little hands-on instruction. That way you can start off with safe habits and keep your fingers for the rest of your life. :)
Cool. I had been wondering how these things worked.
@NinjaTurtleNerd oh i gotcha. Love the name by the way!
I want your shop.
I felt uncomfortable through the whole video waiting for that wrench to fall off your fence and strike your saw blade. I understand that you can't use the gripper with a saw guard but a wrench on your fence ? Details ! Details !
what is a good wood to make guide bar runners for a cross cut sled. like a wood that won't swell so much
White oak
I used purpleheart for mine and it's been great.
I noticed the newer one has handle pointing to fence
He adjusted it that way, it's optional,. This would help put natural pressure toward the fence.
Does one only use this when making narrow rips? I can't see using it for ripping down plywood. If so, kind of limited use for the price. Also, if your making multiple narrow rips, use a thin rip jig instead, much safer anyways. $0.02
12:10 seems quite dangerous. in that sitation you're putting quite a lot of pressure. I'm afraid if something goes wrong the saw will cut that ripper and your hands easily
Well, you see there's a wrench on my fence. So.. :) Actually that's just the wrench for blade changes. I used to leave it there occasionally but for obvious safety reasons, I no longer do that.
Gripper looks great - going to get one - but what about that intro music! James Brown inspired all the way - what is is??
yeah i am not paying $100 for that ripper, my whole delta table saw cost me $60. not paying more than $20 for that thing.
certified30 How much are your fingers worth?
Wow what an amazing tool... After listening to how unsafe all the alternative methods are I certainly wouldn't feel safe using any woodworking machinery without one... And I am sure your sponsors would be very happy to hear that... Hmmmmm
please learn to be safe then, without this. if you only feel safe because of this tool you are not qualified to use power tools. Then, after that, buy this tool.
I like your Archer shirt
I just saw a video of a guy using this... he cut thru the plastic like butter
@theman1223 use Google much?
Do you still recommend this, or is there a better product available now?
I watched your video and went to amazon and ordered it. I have a question about that rip fence of your, can you share some info about it? I have a Skil 3410 t. saw and really hate that hard to lock do rip fence. Well that's all for now I'm off to subscribe to you. :-)Bill in Las Vegas
Why does safety always come with a weighty price ?
Allmost pro "Doing it wrong" acting, ranks up there with the lady in the snuggy commercial. that being said, thanks for the video.
WHY NOT JUST MAKE ONE FROM SCRAP STOCK???
WHY NOT JUST TAKE OFF YOUR CAPSLOCK???
Go for it, bro! Let's see, you're going to make this thing from scrap in...five hours? @ $12/hr? In ten hours, @ $6/hr? Go for it, man!
If you can’t afford a Sawstop that’s the next best thing
@jdstone67 REALLY?! Do you have a link? I was looking and couldn't find any reported accidents.
Who is watching this in 2020
2021 mate.
Bought one yesterday. Right out of the box, ripping maple, gripper wouldn't push without slipping so cut had burn marks and blade marks. Very disappointed.
Most of us are not machining little 12-18" pieces of wood. Please demonstrate with a 8-10' piece of lumber or with full size sheet good.....this product sounds good for the home hobbyist
it's not meant to replace other pushblocks... it was invented to use for the smaller cuts the guy was making at the time and was frustrated that he couldn't make safe cuts on the small stock and didn't like wasting wood. you simply wouldn't use it for anything other than when it gets down to a point where it makes sense to use.
the company ad shows some larger stock. Id say it is only currently worth the price if you have an apprentice doing many small cuts for projects. This will help a less experienced person get the accuracy and safety you want. Til it comes down in price tho it will be hard for anyone with real experience to shell that dough.
I am almost willing to pay for it to put in the classroom so we can see what is possible with such a tool, but it is still objectively too much for what it is, physically. Just compare what else you can buy for the price. My cast iron belt drive rockwell beaver tablesaw cost me about 30 bucks. Most people buy em for 80, and a new jobsite lightweight tablesaw is as little as 120, to around 300 depending on brand. If you honestly think a piece of plastic should cost half a tablesaw, you are one easy sucker to rope in. Not saying you shouldnt buy it, but if you do, please admit at the very least that you are paying a premium for being an early entry buyer. Sadly, even years later, this is strill an early entry purchase, as no other competitors have emerged that i can see.
@TheWoodWhisperer Infomercials have people doing things wrong intentionally to make a point. like you did with the different push tools you have. i was trying to be funny but i failed. youtube search "doing it wrong" and watch the tribute. youll see what i mean.
"all time favorite". ? Funny, I never saw u use it before.
No shout out to Woodworking for Mere Mortals?
For what, exactly?
He seems to push the Grrr-ipper in all of his videos.
This video pre-dates his relationship with MicroJig, as far as I can tell. Where's my shout out? :)
AFAIK, he gave you a shout out in a couple of videos. BTW, much respect for contributing to Steve's saw. That's probably the most awesome thing I've seen on CZcams.
leave out the price much?
looks pretty easy to make one similar out of wood! not worth the high price.
cakepanda, if you think it's that easy to make one of wood then I'll look for your you tube demonstration
you dont have to wait, the vids already exist. it is an amazing tool, but until they drp the price it is objectively over-priced. Think with your brain., not your heart. its a tool not a lover.
@@jaednhowlar2359 these things cost 18-20$ on ebay
It may be a good tool, but it kind of feels like you are inventing issues at the beginning. You show awful push stick technique by applying it too early so the work piece tips up. You would get exactly the same issue if you insisted on applying the gripper before the edge of the table.
Nothing that elegant. My solution was the floor or the right side of the table.
Two simple wooden pushsticks that you make yourself. That's pretty much it. Since the company is giving away so many of these things to youtube woodworkers it is unlikely to hear a bad review of it. I'm not presuming you got your for free, of course. But Matthias Wandel explained it pretty well.
I'm not sure $60 bucks is worth it for this piece of plastic.
it is less kickback and still have all my fingers! worth the money!
u must be an expert woodworker. or u make your own jigs. some people need help.
You dont need to be an expert to be safe on a tablesaw for most cuts. OP is not saying it wouldnt be nice to have, hes saying the markup over the products actual value of material and workmanship is high. He is objectively right, and he will be proved right as other companies release competition and microjig is ofrced to make a more reasonable pricepoint. Just because you are willing to pay for it doesnt make it a good value. I am almost willing to pay for it to put in the classroom so we can see what is possible with such a tool, but it is still objectively too much for what it is, physically. Just compare what else you can buy for the price. My cast iron belt drive rockwell beaver tablesaw cost me about 30 bucks. Most people buy em for 80, and a new jobsite lightweight tablesaw is as little as 120, to around 300 depending on brand. If you honestly think a piece of plastic should cost half a tablesaw, you are one easy sucker to rope in. Not saying you shouldnt buy it, but if you do, please admit at the very least that you are paying a premium for being an early entry buyer.
Yeah, but in my opinion I'd rather pay 60 bucks now rather than having to pay hundreds in medical bills due to injury.
It’s a good investment. I use mine for multiple power tools to save fingers and use it on various sizes and stages of machining, jointing, and ripping stock. It’s been around for a while and is a good mature product. If you saw off some of a foot it’s easy to repair. A pair of them has come in really handy for long stock.
this item is too pricy, Is plastic and simple. why charge so much? It looks handy however. I would pay about $40