Chuck changing on Bosch PBD 40
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- čas přidán 4. 07. 2020
- This video shows how to change chuck on a Bosch PBD 40 bench drill machine. I have always been unhappy with the original chuck but never really managed to remove it, I felt that it was practically impossible, so I suspected it was welded on the motor axis. I asked Bosch service and support about instructions on how to remove the chuck, but all they wrote back as answer was that I should send it in if I wanted to change the chuck and they will do it for me. Since that was NOT an answer to my question, I decided once more to try it, and this time, using an extension pipe, I managed to remove the old chuck. It really needed huge force, so I suspect Bosch used some sort of super glue just to piss off the users.
Anyway, no thanks to Bosch, I managed to replace it and decided to make a short video about it, in case somebody else also want to do the same thing and is too afraid to do it. It is really very simple, just watch how I did it.
This is the new chuck on my PBD 40: eshop247.roehm.biz/DE-en/supr...
Here in this document you will find the specifications and the current Rohm chuck product line: www.roehm.biz/fileadmin/conte...
Please note that when you order you must type in the right part number. Only the ones with 1/2"-20 mount fit this machine, and the one I am using is the 871050. That is very important when you buy the chuck.
Have a look at the end of the story: • Bosch PBD 40 bench dri... - Věda a technologie
Please note that when you order the chuck you must type in the right part number. Only the ones with 1/2"-20 mount fit this machine, and the one I am using is the 871050. That is very important when you buy the chuck to avoid ordering the wrong one. Please have a look at the end of the my Bosch PBD 40 story: czcams.com/video/3IsRIDdp05o/video.html
how many mm is the thread size?
@@bonjob47 Thread size is 1/2"-20, not mm.
If all videos were as good as this, life would be so much easier. Many thanks for taking the time to show how to dramatically improve this already fine piece of machinery.
Thank you very much for your kind words.
Exceedingly useful - thanks! I don’t think I would have had the nerve to exert the necessary force if I hadn’t seen you do it first! Much appreciated.
Thank you for your comment. Regarding the extra force, it's nothing compared to what people use when they smash the Allen key with a mallet... I mean, have you seen all the CZcams videos about how to remove a chuck from a drilling machine? ALL of them I have seen recommends the use of an Allen key and a mallet. That's crazy, because it is simply crazy to hit the Allan key because it will bend or damage the axis. Can't those people think and come up with a better idea? Using a tube extension means less force than using a mallet, and it can't ever hurt the axis.
Hi from Finland. Had to wait about a year to do this due to not having sufficient space for my PBD 40. Finally did the chuck changed today, following your instructions.The original chuck was glued damn tight, but the pipe method worked perfectly. Thank you so much for this great video, was really helpful.
Thank you for taking the time to show this useful mod. Apparently, there are videos covering changing the
bearings on the output shaft of this drill - but as you have shown, this might not be necessary, with a simple
change of chuck. I haven't purchased this drill yet, but have been pondering on it. Very helpful, and
appreciated :-)
Just got my PBD 40 and I was shocked that you can even feel the runout of the original chuck just with your finger. The replacement chuck is so much better, thanks again for your video!
You are a legend. Love my PBD 40, but hated its chuck from Day 1. Saw your video, ordered the chuck you recommended that night and fitted it today. Soooo much better. Thank you!!
Thank you very much for your kind words. I am glad that my video helped you (and others) out in this decision. I also understand your joy. Every time I use my machine ever since I made this change it is a joy to use it and the only thing I don't understand is why I did not do it earlier...
Just ordered chuck from Zoro uk. Appreciate the video and step by step instructions. Thank you.
Thank you very very much. I had the same feeling about the machine and the chuck, but was unable to find out the right version of a new roehm chuck. Now I have ordered a new one.
Great video and good humor. I am about to buy the PBD 40 and will change out the chuck as soon as I get it. The chuck is so important! I have a standing drill press that has an Albrecht chuck on it that almost cost as much as the drill press...but now I get accurate holes...thank you again for your help!
Thank you for your comment. I wasn't meant to be humorous, but it's great if you not only found it useful, but also humorous.
Thx for the video! Did the exact same for my pbd 40 after seeing your video and are really happy with the results.
Thank you very much for your comment.
Thank you for taking the time, i fitted the new one today and am very please with it, you can see and feel the difference in quality
Thank you for the feedback. Yes, it is like day and night. Huge difference, I agree. I see people changing the handle but that does not improve the machine at all, just changes the looks, However changing the chuck is a definite improvement.
@@AdaptingCamera brilliant thank you once again
Great video - I was struggling to figure out how to remove the Chuck on my PBD40 so I could clean it properly. You also persuaded me that an upgrade is worth it - so a Rohm Chuck is on its way to me.
I am happy that it helped you out. Good luck.
Thank you so much for this video. I had been researching bench drill presses and liked the Bosch PBD 40 but didn't like the chuck it comes with and hesitated buying it until I found this video. Afterwards, I ordered both the drill and the Supra S chuck. Following your video, I replaced the chuck. Being brand new it broke free very easily. The Supra S is all steel construction and just feels so much better built and performs great, I'm glad I replaced the original.
Thank you for your comment. I am glad I helped you making the decisions, and hope you will be happy with the machine. All I know is that if I had to buy a new one I'd still buy the same machine, but I'd do the same as you, i.e. buy a chuck at the same time and install that on day one.
Thanks pal ! I just deciding to buy that bench drill and your suggestion about the chuck is appreciated, indeed 👍
I'm so glad I found this video. My PBD40 was always throwing out bits during use and I didn't have any faith in it. Just ordered the Rohn Supra. Thanks
Thank you very much for your comment. Yes, your problem was my problem also, and in fact, that was one of the main reasons for me to change the chuck. That locking mechanism is just a joke, I never liked it, and it can actually become quite dangerous. Sadly, the machine is sold with the same chuck even today, but maybe it's been improved. Anyway, after the chuck change, I never had any issues with the chuck releasing a drill bit. It is also easier to handle it.
Oh, nice one, Adapting Camera! A thoroughly worthwhile mod. So much so, that I’m going to get in touch with the folks at Rohm and order one of those chucks right now. Thank you!
I bought mine via Amazon.de. I don't know if you can get it directly from Röhm for a better price, but I think not.
Since I’ll have to get it back to Australia, a few euros either way isn’t going to be that big an issue. Röhm’s e-shop has them at €79. Even with shipping, that’s way cheaper than I can buy one in Oz.
@@julianwhitta1114 Well, buying from Germany and shipping to Oz would not be a good idea... :) I am in Sweden, so for me it was good.
Brilliant video. And I love this guy’s soothing voice. 🤩
Thank you. I have performed this upgrade on my Bosch drill press and it reduced the run out by half
Thank you for the feedback. Yes, it is a fairly simple thing to do and it results in a huge improvement.
Thank you for your helpful video. In my case, the drill chuck with the red ring was defective and wanted to exchange it. That's how I came across your video and now I've bought the Supra-S for 65 euros instead of the original spare part for about 120 euros, which is also much better. Thanks again...
I am glad that my video helped you out. I had no idea that the replacement chuck costs more than the Supra S, but it is definitely not worth paying for the original if one has to replace the chuck anyway.
Great video - upgraded by following your instructions - great improvement! Thank you :-)
Thank you for your comment. I appreciate it.
Just purchased one of these and initially was impressed. Lots of info on how to use, correct settings for this, and that.
In its first outing, quickly released, the chuck is rubbish.
Quick search, lead me to your video (very good, btw)
I was unable to remove using your allen key or pipe wrench method, as the chuck would spin.
I ended up cutting off the red plastic collar and black plastic collar at the top to reveal a smaller metal spline.
With a wee push, the chuck undid.
Needless to say, a new chuck has been ordered.
👍 thanks for the video
It worked and the new chuck ( a Röhm ) is mounted on the PBD-40. Works much better now, so thanks.
I did not used a pipe, but a ca 40 cm pipe wrench (pliers?) because the key wasn't holding in the former chuck. But take care, the ring above the red one is also made of plastic.
Thanks.
Hi, thanks for this very clear video. I changed my chuck too. And it is a real upgrade for my Bosch. An advice for other viewers: the big seller with the A is more than 20 dollar cheaper than the adress you mention in your post.
Thank you for your comment. I bought mine from Amazon.de and the link is only because Amazon is really bad in providing description and their translations are horrible, so I did not want to provide a link to them. Anyway, my next work will be changing all the bearings. I have already ordered them (not from Amazon) and now waiting for delivery. I will also try to eliminate the play caused by bad design of the center column / motor head connection. So... stay tuned... more is coming. I just need some time. :)
@@AdaptingCamera Hi, great mod! Too bad we need to spend € 60 on a € 300 drill to make it half way decent. Worst part is, looking at prices for the SK E, that's € 60 for us, when it would have been ~€ 5 for Bosch...
Did you get around to changing the bearings? How did that turn out and what bearings did you use?
@@paulnieuwkamp8067 I haven't changed the bearings yet. Maybe later on during this summer. I agree that Bosch should have added this chuck, and not the one they have it on the machine. The price difference would have been minimal. Now we have to buy the drill machine and pay for the chuck we don't want to keep and pay for a new and MUCH better chuck, so basically we pay twice the price because of that.
Thankyou, really helpful changing my chuck now
Thank you for your comment. I hope everything went well and you have a bran new machine, which this one becomes of after a chuck change.
Thank you very much for the video, it was extremely useful, as were peoples comments. I've changed the chuck (£100) but had to use a pipe wrench as it kept opening when I tried your allen key method. It came off fairly easily with no damage. I've also replaced the bearing (£5) and used the bread method to extract the original bearing. I was gobsmackedby how well it actually works. The change to the accuracy of the drill is remarkable, Thank you again.
Thank your for your comment. Actually, mine was so tight that I couldn't use a pipe wrench, unless I'd have used a very large one, which I don't have. So the Allen key with a pipe extension did the trick for me. I have still not changed my bearings, but one of these days will do it...
Do you know a source on how to replace the bearing?
@@JustinShaedo search for SMR128ZZ EZO Stainless Steel Miniature Bearing 8x12x3.5 Shielded, if you were uk based Wychbearing is where I got mine.
Thanks for the video. I had have the same problem and installed a röhm drill holder.
I am glad you fixed it.
Thanks for sharing this, good info to know!
Brilliant advice. Other reviewers were mentioning that the drill could use some accuracy. Although the chucks are not cheap, it sure does seem to fix a recurring issue of this drill press.
Thank you for your comment.
I used a hollow metal broom handle for more leverage on the allen key. Worked a treat!
Right. I don't understand why hitting the allen key with a mallet is more or less a standard procedure. It results in a HUGE and totally uncontrollable force on the chuck and the whole machine, so I don't understand why people prefer doing that instead of a better controllable method. When hitting the allen key, you not only risk damaging the chuck, but also the spindle or the gear box and can in the end brick the machine. So in my opinion, that's a brutally dumb way of removing the chuck from any drill machine.
That was of great help. Thank you very much.
Thank you for your comment. I am glad you found my video helpful.
Excellent content. Bosch should employ ppl like you to test their products and advise improvements. Can’t believe they skim money on critical components of their machines.
Oh boi, there was a bit that got stuck in my chuck; I think it itself tighted and would not be removed. I though i'll try to remove the whole chuck and suddenly when using your method (but used it on the base of where you open the chuck) it popped out :) Thanks, I know this was not the point of this video but this was bugging me for three days now and because of this video I got it out; thanks!
That's great! Thank you for your kind words.
VERY helpful video. Thank you very much!
Thank you for the comment. I am happy that you found it useful.
Had this problem and followed this video to remove the chuck, worked like a charm :)
I didn’t have a replacement chuck, but I wanted to measure the cocetricity of the shaft the chuck was attached to, was wobbling 0.1mm (4 thou) :( a bit dissapointed I screwed the old chuck back in and to my surprise pretty much all the wobble was gone :O Measured the wobble on my drill, less than 0.04mm (1.6 thou) :D So before buying a new chuck, try unscrewing the current one, rotate it 180 degrees and screw it back in (not sure about the 180 though, I just screwed my in at random, so you might have to try a few times)
I tried that but in my case it was no help. Also, the original chuck is really crap because it has that locking ring, which WILL release the bit now and then. The self locking mechanism is not good enough, and if you look up the chuck, you will see, just as I show you in the video also, that the chuck is made for impact drills, and small hand drills which rotate in both directions, not designed for bench drill machines. So in every aspect, even if you magically can get rid of the runout, the chuck should be replaced with a proper chuck, designed for bench drills. Runout is not everything, there are other aspects of a good chuck also.
@@AdaptingCameraYeah, you’re right that the chuck is bad. Just didn’t feel like spending 70 bucks on a budged drillpress :p But it’s probably worth the money.
Thanks for the Video. I will change my chuck this way.
Thank you for your comment. I am glad you found my video useful and hope you have managed to change your chuck.
@@AdaptingCamera No, it did not work. I did not succeed in loosening the old drill chuck.
@@volkerweber1063 Did you try the same way I show it in the video? I mean, it feels a bit scary to use a long pipe and having to push it with such force, but in the end, mine did release with a huge bang. The "bang" is not in my video because I did that before I made the video. Anyway, if you try again you must be careful and must make sure that the Allan key is inserted and tightened properly. Some people managed to insert it wrong and after tightening, had problems with removing the Allen key again.
Thanks for sharing! It's very useful.
Thanks so much for taking the time and effort to produce this excellent video. After finding the same short-comings in the original chuck Bosch supplied with this machine (in metalwork) I have decided to order the Rohm 871050 shown here. I hope I am able to use your video during my install to good effect and will update this comment to report back when I do. Much appreciated! 👍
Gold video, thanks!
Thank you for your comment.
This is a great video. My PBD 40 has just arrived on a cracking deal of the day from Amazon (£200). The Supra chuck is on the way and should arrive next week. I could not make my mind up on this drill as the internet is awash with comments and videos of the 'chuck wobble' on and it was your video that swung me towards the buy now button.
I had to laugh about the advice on chuck removal on this model from one of the Bosch mentors on their community channel. Anticlockwise and hit the alley key smartly with a hammer. You could not make it up! You will see in the video folks that it is clockwise viewed from above and that it is really bad practice to hit machinery and bearings with a hammer!
I have taken the chuck off perfectly easily with a 10mm Allen key socket using a tube about 50cm long for leverage, and then popped it back on in the meantime. I did do some test drilling with wood as I was curious and I have to say that the results were perfectly acceptable to be honest (in wood). However, there is considerable wobble in the supplied chuck which I am sure would present more of a challenge in metal.
I will report back when the Supra chuck is fitted but the ability to change speed with a knob still makes me smile!
Thank you very much for your words and good luck with your machine. Yes, unfortunately, it is a common practice to hit the Allen key in the chuck. It's been done for as long as I lived (65 years) but I always thought it was a REALLY poor idea and always avoided doing that. EVERYTHING in the machine gets the hit and may be damaged. Bearings, axle, gears, chuck and even the motor. I don't understand that this is still the recommended way also by some professionals. Also the clockwise / counter clockwise thing is confusing unless it is clearly indicated by a picture or stated if you are facing the axle or looking at it from above, like you normally looking at the chuck of a bench / pillar drill machine.
Also did the bearings. Not a project for the faint-hearted I would say but perfectly possible if you take your time. Take plenty of photos as you go and watch out for the contents of the gearbox falling out onto the bench! Took an hour in total and all was well.
Very satisfying to grab the chuck however and feel no movement whatsoever.
@@cmbd9301 Thank you for your comment. Yes, it's a good idea to change the bearings also. I have all the bearings, just need some time so that I can start and finish without anything in between, other than a cup of coffee. While it took an hour for you, I think it will take more than that to me, since I want to take pictures and video and also want to change the large spindle bearing, and that is a bit more work than the small ones. I also don't want to brick my machine, so I am not a time optimist.
The bearings are pour quality tout, you can restrain even more the endplay by upgrading them. Thanx for your vidéo.
Excellent info. Thanks.
Great video, Thanks.
Thanks, bought the same chuck £60mfromamazon when on offer, and it removed fairly easily...Thanks matey
Thank you for your comment. I am glad you found my video useful.
Just ordered 871050 to replace the standard which is awful. Drilling hardwood pen blanks I could see the drill tip deflect off centre. Thanks for the video / advise. Shame that professional engineers at Bosch allow such issues to arise.
Спасибо. Очень полезное видео.
Thank you. Very helpful.
Many,... many thanks! Good job
Thank you for your comment.
@@AdaptingCamera 🤗
Hi, thanks for your Tipp 😀👍
You are welcome. I hope it is helpful.
Argh. The link is dead.
I look on Amazon UK, one is £78, one is £101! And they seem exact same.
Also a review on amazon mentions the best bearing with tighter tolerance is NSK 6002DDUCM. Many thanks for the video! Liked 👍 it’s a shame many others haven’t ! 🙄
Thank you for the comment. The link is updated now. Rohm have changed something on their site since the structure and the links are different now. Amazon is a bit of a lottery, not always easy to find a good deal. I bought SKF bearings but have not had time to replace the bearings in my machine yet, the work is still on my "to do" list.
Hi, great informative video. What chuck would you replace the factory chuck with for tapping/threading mild steel? Can you get this to operate with a reverse?
I am sorry, I am not a chuck expert. Also, this machine is not suitable for tapping. It is a bench drill machine, not a mill, so reversing and running it slow enough for tapping is not possible.
I made a quick comparison of the run out in two Röhm drill chucks on my Bosch PBD 40 after upgrading the upper spindle bearing. The factory supplied bearing is a 8x12x8 mm needle bearing. This bearing sits at the top of the gear box. Unfortunately it has a lose fit around the spindle, which allows for a lot of run out in the tool. I followed the example from other CZcamsrs and replaced the needle bearing with two 8x12x3.5 mm ball bearings. Unfortunately, I made no measurements before the bearing change. The first part of this video demonstrates the run out with the standard Röhm Supra SK 1.5-13 mm chuck (the one with the red plastic locking ring). The second part shows the improvement gained by changing to the Röhm Supra S 1-13 mm (ID 871050). I think it is fair to say that the total run out is reduced from 0.1 mm to 0.04 mm. The shaft I used for the measurement is a standard 10 mm edge finder. A fun fact: the standard chuck weights 385 g and the Supra S 560 g. Here is the video link: czcams.com/video/oIsTQb0HJCA/video.html
Thank you. So basically, it is half the run out compared to the original. What we don't know is how it would be if you'd have used better quality pin bearings of the same dimension. Anyway, I still think that most of the run out comes from the spindle bearings above the chuck. If I get on with this work I will change all bearings. Was it easy to remove the pin bearing? What tool did you use? Bread...? 😀
@@AdaptingCamera When I look at your video I see that your indicator arm is not parallel with the drill. A 45 degree angle implies a lot of cosine error. The indicator may allow the arm to be angled but it should imho be parallel with the measured object. Am I wrong? Compare to my setup. I described most of the bearing change in an earlier comment here, and gave a link to some pictures I shot during the operation. I made a bearing extraction tool from a 100 mm M8 screw with hex head. I began by splitting the screw a few centimeters from the head and upwards to the threaded part with a saw. Then I squeezed the halves together and machined the hex part to 8 mm diameter, and removed material at the end, so I got a sharp edge around the perimeter. Think of a very short head of a countersunk screw. When the compression over the head is released the two halves separates. Next I made a shim of aluminum. The shim should be as thick as the saw blade and fit into the saw slit. To remove the bearing, squeeze the halves of the tool together and insert it through the bearing. If properly done, the hook part is exactly 8 mm wide, and it is perfectly round when compressed! (That's why it should be split first and machined to 8 mm diameter afterwards.) Release the pressure and insert the shim. I used no force at all to do that. It is not much to grip on since the little space under the bearing is occupied by a bearing washer of the same inner diameter as the bearing housing. I guess my tool slipped upwards a bit until it stopped against the needles. The other part of the screw has threads so it is straightforward to make an arrangement with some clamping and nuts to get leverage on the bearing. All this is made easier if the motor is detached from the gear box housing. But don't remove the motor until the whole package is lifted off from the machine. When you have the bearing in your hand, you have earned a cup of tea! Sorry about this long description, I just recalled that CZcams is for videos, not long text reports.
@@paullehmor982 Don't worry about the length of your message. This is my video and I have the power to do anything I want with it, if it would disturb me I'd delete it. Instead I say thank you for taking the time in typing that detailed explanation. Written instructions are easier (for me) to remember than to watch a video and remember what I have seen. Maybe it's the age. I am a "reading generation" guy, video for me is mostly for entertainment and for getting /sharing ideas.
Anyway, regarding the angle I measure vs. you measure, I don't think it matters but I can be wrong. Maybe next time, I'll check both ways and see if it makes any difference. In any case, what I think is important is the relative change, not that it is measured exactly, and since we measure both before and after the same way (you do it your way, I do it my way), any error in the measuring method is removed. We simply compare and can see that the improvement is obvious and the run out is about half compared to "before" in your case with the bearing change, and more than 3 times in my case after the chuck change. The 0.07 mm my indicator shows after the chuck change may turn out to be 0.1 mm using your indicator and your measuring angle, but it doesn't matter to me, since in that case even the original 0.23 mm run out error I am measuring before the change should equally be more, so my improvement should still be 3 times or more.
Thanks! Chuck is ordered, but people say that it's smart to exchange two ball bearings in the gearbox also, since they're cheap bearings from China. It would be nice to know how to exchange those ball bearings also. Then I think this machine will be very precise for the price.
To be honest, "for the price" it is an excellent machine in my opinion already without any change. Changing the chuck is very easy, it can be done by almost anyone. Too bad Bosch did not mention that in the manual and also not very supportive about it. Changing the bearings is a different thing. It needs more skills and should only be done by people, unless they are professional, who are ready to brick the machine if the change fails. Also, I think the biggest issue is not the bearings in the gear box, but the two on the spindle. Those are the ones causing the spindle wobble, not the ones in the gear box. Anyway, I plan to change tall bearings but have had no time to do it.
@@AdaptingCamera The spindle bearings. Ok, I see. Yeah, I'm not planning to dismantle the whole thing, but if some bearings helps and it's easy to do, then it could be an option.
@@gsolas I can't say how easy it is to replace those because I have not done it yet, but it should be easier than the pin needle bearings. Never the less, in both cases you must dismantle the drill head. Bearing replacement is never easy.
Very useful, thanks!
Thank you for your comment.
Thank you for this video, I am on my second PBD 40 after Bosch swapped the first one for this runout. The second one is not much better so will be doing as you did with a new chuck. Did you ever measure the runout on the shaft without a chuck? Thank you again.
Great video thank you, unfortunately it would seem that Roehm, or at least the retailers, have caught onto it's fame amongst pd40 owners because the price for this specific chuck seems to have sky rocketed since you made this video in order to cash in on us. or maybe the issue is geographical but I doubt it, it's almost half the price of a new PBD40 now which I can't justify. This is leading me to think of other possibilities, I've always been happy with the chuck on my Makita heavy drills and i do have a spare one I don't use, I'm thinking perhaps I can take the chuck from the Makita and fit it to the Bosch, providing it will mate up to it which I have no idea.
Another thing I've noticed is this is the same chuck that comes with the Makita 12v brushless drill, which Since new has had a terrible amount of run out and I've always hated it, imagine my surprise when I realised it's the same heap of crap on the Bosch.
I have done the bearing mod, and it helped by about half, maybe. I was expecting little to no run out based on peoples feedback/opinions so I was disappointed to still see some runout, albeit reduced, I think the next thing to do will be to stop the whole head from deviating left or right a few mm's when lowering it to the work piece as sometimes it doesn't even touch down where the laser is or where my hole was punched, simply because the head is wafting around. Frustrating.
I don't know where you looked, but it's hardly what I call "sky rocketed"... Easy to find for around 110 USD on Amazon. Röhm original was always a bit higher priced than cheap Chinese knock off.
Welcome to Australia. It's about $300aud for me.@@AdaptingCamera
Thanks for such an informative video. I am planning to change the chuck on mine and your video is a GREAT help.
One question...did you consider the RÖHM SUPRA-I for even better concentricity...?
Thank you for your comments. No, I did not consider that one because I could not find anyone selling it. Looking at the specs, I don't think the differences in concentricity (0.05mm) would be noticeable on this machine.
@@AdaptingCamera OK....I've just now checked the Röhm catalogue more closely and by the looks of it, the "I" version wouldn't fit anyway, as it's not manufactured in a 1/2" 20 mount (!!)
@@Lignumopus Actually, according to this document: eshop.roehm.biz/media/attachment/file/d/c/dc0001470.pdf it does exist, but may be hard to find, depending on where you live. It has item number: 871055 in the document.
Changing the needle bearing is a matter of 1 hour of work max, the unit is easy to disassemble, and it's really easy to remove the needle bearing with the bread technique.
You should definitely do it, it did remove any wobble and any play I was witnessing; I don't have the means to measure though, it but now my precision work is really precise, while before the drills had to much wobble. I am now 100% satisfied with my PBD 40. Just by replacing that bloody bearing. Do it, it's fast and you'll never regret it!
Thank you. I will definitely do it, but right now I can't since I don't have time. I have all the bearings needed, and know it is easy to disassemble, have done it before. Nevertheless, if I open it, I change all the bearings, or at least it is planned that I will do it that way.
Thanks for sharing. The chuck you suggested was only a slight improvement for me, maybe I got lucky with the OEM chuck. I suggest looking at the bearings and drill head / column interface for the best bang for your buck. Originally I had 0.40mm play with 0.09mm runout. Changing the needle bearing reduced play to 0.25mm. Then I replaced top and bottom column felt wipers with CNC'd 10mm thick UHMWPE collars to stiffen the drill head - I noticed rotational stiffness was particularly poor and made the custom collars fit tightly against the gear rack - tightness had to be balanced against friction preventing the spring from returning the drill head home. Play reduced to 0.12mm and runout 0.05mm. Finally, changing the chuck reduced play to 0.10mm and runout to 0.03mm.
But you don't really know how much improvement the chuck change would have made if you only did that, because you started with the bearings. Anyway, yes, changing the bearings definitely is needed also, and I plan to do it one of these days also, but I need my machine because I use it almost every day. Also, chuck changing is not just about tolerances, it's also about NEVER dropping a drill mid work unintentionally, and is also about comfort. The original chuck is for impact drills and hand drills which can rotate both left and right. The three ring design is stupid and difficult to tighten. The new chuck is in a completely different league all together, so for me, even if the tolerance and play would be the same as before, I'd still be happy with my decision of changing the chuck.
Great review, thanks. The annoying thing is that after spending around £280 (Jan 24 UK price), you have to spend another £90 on a decent chuck. When you look at the total price, it doesn’t seem good value.
Well, I disagree. Even after spending more that that I still think it's a good machine and would buy another one today if the one I have would break down and would not be possible to repair, but of course it's a shame that Bosch delivers this machine with such a crappy chuck, which is not even made for bench drill machines, but hand impact drills.
Thank you for the video. My Bosch PDB40 has an excessive wobble. I bought the machine for metal work and sometimes the holes are just square. I'm using quality drills but it doesn't seem to be accurate enough.
I tried to change the chuck and followed the instructions in your video, but whatever I do it seems to impossible to remove it. I'm affraid I'm destroy the thing by putting even more force on it.
I'm doubt if I void the warrenty if I remove the original chuck...
Any tips?
I think if you have such issues then you should send the machine in for service under warranty and NOT chanage the chuck. Wait with the changing until the machine is back from the service in it's original condition. Drilling "square" holes in metal is not normal. I bought my machine mainly for drilling in metal, but not even after several years of fairly heavy use I had problems like the ones you described, not even with the original chuck. The problem you have is definitely not normal and is not going to be fixed by chuck change.
Thanks for the video, i wonder what size allen did you use when removing the chuck?
Sorry, I don't remember. It was the largest I could find around me.
You really need the largest you can fit in the chuck….it’s simply used as a lever to unscrew the chuck against the 16mm spanner fitted to the spindle…put the short end in the jaws and tighten the jaws to grip it..
You need a largish one or you are likely to bend it, as it initially needs some brute force and an extension tube to move it….it’s quite tight…
Thanks for the video. It's been most informative. I recently sold my old pillar drill as it got too heavy for me to lump around. I have been looking for a new drilling solution ever since. It did occur to buy a PBD40 and replace the bearings and chuck. But that makes a £250 machine into a £400? machine. When you take away the gimmicks, i.e. the laser and electronic depth adjustment, there's only 2 things that make this machine desirable. It's a lot lighter and therefore portable than a traditional bench drill. The only other real advantage is that the drill head moves relative to the base, dispensing with regular checks for perpendicularity.
BUT the NOISE of that motor. OMG. I'm now thinking a better and cheaper alternative would be to buy a Woodpecker Auto-Line Drill Guide - assuming one already has a qood quality cordless drill. I'd bet good money that my Makita brushless LXT with an Auto-Line would outperform even an upgraded PBD40 in every single respect; cheaper, lighter, less runout, more torque, more more portable, more versatile and quieter. I already own the Makita. So I'd only have to buy an Auto-line, which at the time of writing would cost me £189 plus shipping, import duty & VAT. A cheaper chinese version (but all steel and alloy construction) is on Banggood for £52 plus shipping, import duty & VAT. I'd love to see a comparison between a suped up PBD40 vs a decent cordless in a Woodpecker Auto-Line.
You are comparing apples and oranges. The Woodpecker Auto-Line Drill Guide is a toy and the Makita LXT, while it may be a very good cordless drill, it is still, "just another cordless drill", cheap, impact drill with low RPM. Impact drills are NEVER comparable with any bench drills, and I bet you will have a lot of play in that chuck and axis. But of course, if all you do is drilling a few holes in wood and never need to work with metal, it may be good enough for you, but you can't really believe that the weak 350W motor outperforms the PBD 40, which has a 710W motor, with constant speed and torque electronic, which actually works very well. The Woodpecker Auto-Line Drill Guide is nowhere near making your cordless drill into a bench machine, it is intended for other type of use. If you buy a cheap knock off, you will get something even worse. All in all, even right out of the box, the PBD 40 beats your alternative hands down, that I am very sure of. I also had your idea and actually bought this: www.wolfcraft.com/products/wolfcraft/en/EUR/Products/Attachments-for-Machines/Drill-Stands/Drill-Stand/p/P_5027 which is very good and useful, but still, NOWHERE near the usability of PBD 40, even though I have a very high quality hand drill, powerful and is not cordless. Yes, the PBD 40 is noisy, but otherwise, even out of the box is very good and useful, well worth it's price.
Thank you, that's what I needed. Just in time. Good explanation.
Maybe you can tell me the difference between the Röhm Supra 13S 1/2" (871050) and the Röhm Supra S13 B16 (871047)? Both fit the PDB40? Am I right that the B16 is a bit more "precise" (cause the Concentricity
deviation max. mm = 0.17 and on the 1/2" it is = 0.25)?
Thanks for the video and your help!
Thanks for the comment. I am glad that my video helped you out. The B16 is indeed better, but it does not fit because it is a B16. The Bosch PBD 40 has a threaded motor axis, so it needs the threaded chuck. The threaded chucks are normally worse than the B12, B16 and B18 types, which have conic fits, no threads. I am no expert, but the reason must be the fact that every kind of thread must have some play, otherwise we would not be able to twist them on/off. This play causes some extra concentricity error. Anyway, the 871050 is miles better than the Supra SK E, even if the data sheet says only 0.1mm better concentricity, in reality the difference is huge and feels immediately after the first drill.
@@AdaptingCamera In all honesty, that's the most useful piece of advice I've received from a comment here on YT.
So I will go with the 871050 :-)
Thank you!
@@photobastlmichael9810 Thank you very much. I really appreciate it.
Thanks!
I changed the input shaft top roller bearing on my BPD40 for 2 ball bearing races, and there is now zero movement on the shaft of chuck.
Yes, it's a good idea to change all the bearings. I also have a set of bearings and will change them one of these days.
Thankyou for posting this video. My issue is I own the drill and this have purchased the same upgrade chuck. My issue is when I lock the old check with a wrench and use an Allen Key in the same direction as your video, the chuck releases the allen Key even though the chuck has been set to Lock. Would you know what im doing wrong as I cannot remove the chuck for the life of me.
Difficult to say, but maybe you did not insert the allen key right. Three of the allen key sides must be perfectly aligned with the chuck jaws. Anyway, this is one reason I replaced the chuck, the locking mechanism is a joke on the original chuck. Mine occasionally released the drill, which is definitely horrible.
Thanks for this video. Changing the chuck looks clearly like an improvement. Another problem is the spindle wobble, which is due to the upper needle bearing, sitting in the top of the gear box. This 8x12x8 mm needle bearing has a rather loose fit. I don't know why Bosch has chosen this solution, maybe it lowers production costs. Have you considered to change it? I found a couple of YT videos (Alex Safran) about this and decided to throw out the needle bearing. I replaced it with two 8x12x3.5 mm ball bearings stacked together. After the change I can feel no play at all in the spindle. Its a huge improvement so far. Extracting the old bearing was a bit tricky. There are some useful videos about DIY tools if you don't want to buy an expensive extraction tool, or a whole set. I used the (remaining parts of) the drill stand to press the two new bearings into place. I fitted a 5 mm screw with 8 mm round Allen head, and a 12 mm bushing I found in a scrap box into the chuck. The bearings sunk into place quite easily. I will report measurements as soon as the chuck is replaced.
Yes, I have considered changing all of the bearings and have in fact bought all the necessary ones but had no time to do the job yet, but it is definitely on my list. One problem is that I need the machine quite often, so once started with changing bearings I must finish fast. I also understand that changing some of them might cause some headache, so I want to make sure I have a time slot to do it properly without stress. Anyway, I considered that changing the chuck was the most important thing to do, and yes, it is a huge improvement.
@@AdaptingCamera I wouldn't bother to change the bearings for the internal gear axle or the motor. The most important ones are the two on the main spindle. The needle bearings sit on top of a bearing washer with the same inner diameter as the bearing itself. There is not much to grip on other than the needles. If you have a dedicated hardened tool it should not be a big deal. Be aware there are some delicate electronics and wirings. Thin wires go to the lasers, the rpm sensor, the light diodes and the drill depth meter. There are four micro connectors to pull out from a circuit board in the front panel. I would suggest to secure the front panel to the left side with gaffa, as a temporary swivel. Then loosen the power cords and the four cords connected to the motor. There is also a small piece of circuit board on top of the motor that has to be pulled upwards. Now the front panel is ready to be removed. The left panel can be left hanging in the mains cord. It is convenient to keep everything on the column as long as possible. Don't forget to calibrate the lasers before you close the case! I shot some pictures during the dismounting procedure. Annotations are in Swedish though, sorry. You can translate with google, or feel free to ask for explanations. www.dropbox.com/sh/et2gtlu8cpgxljy/AAAFfRcwpKyM1Mc_LRLSGp7Ea?dl=0
I am not sure the two ball bearings I used to replace the needle bearing are optimal. Maybe a bronze bushing would be more appropriate? A Russian guy here seems to have come to that conclusion.
@@AdaptingCamera Hello, today I measured the run out in the old chuck with both a DTI and an ordinary dial gauge. I used the 10 mm stem of a new edge finder and, for comparison, also a 6 mm cutter. In no case did the run out exceeded +/- 0.05 mm. Unfortunately I did not measure before the replacement of the upper needle spindle bearing last week. I'm sure a forthcoming change of the chuck will bring down the run out to maybe just +/- 0.01 mm. The stock chuck really sucks. Sometimes it even drop my tools. New chuck next!
@@paullehmor982 Hi, so you mean you changed the needle bearings and now your runout is better than +/- 0.05 mm? Because if that's the case then I think that's excellent. I agree about the original chuck, one of my problems was also that it did NOT held the drills firm enough, at least not all the time. After changing, the new chuck is easier to tighten and it NEVER let the drill fall out or the spindle spin without gripping the drill. I am very happy with the PBD 40 now, that's for sure.
@@AdaptingCamera Yes, I changed the bearings as described above. The runout is +/- 0.05, no less, no more. I'm thrilled as to what a new chuck will do! It seems we have the same experience with the stock chuck. The grip is completely unpredictable. I would say it can be a safety risk to use it. Well, these two improvements are easy. The lack of quill is a major one which I don't know how to address. The whole assembly is guided by a rod running through a bushing. It is reasonably secured if the big red handle is tighten very firmly. But on my machine it is not consistent. It seems a little more stable when I lower the unit with the wheel. In my opinion, this is a main construction error. I don't really know what to do about it. Do you have any ideas?
Hello there, I’m considering to buy one for drilling aluminium enclosures for music devices where the potentiometers are mounted on the pcb so need to make holes precisely where the hole layout is, you think is good for my purpose?
Thanks for the video!
I use mine mainly for drilling in aluminium, but how precise you are drilling depends not only on the machine, but also how well you marked the holes and how good your drills are, as well as how you actually do the work, i.e. your skills. I use it also for the type of job you want to use it for, but on the other hand, I could use a manual, hand drill for that purpose also. Drilling holes for potentiometers does not require extreme precision, so yes, this machine is more than good enough for that purpose, at least when I am using it.
thanks so much for sharing this. i just wanted to come back and ask about the gearing ratio. if its possible to change that?
the reason for wanting this is for precision metal drilling small diameter holes. this requires to lower the speed while keeping the torque as high as possible. therefore it benefits the torque to change the gear ratio on speed 1. and reduce it down the even further than stock. to preserve as much of that max torque as possible given the usually expected torque drop off curve of a variable speed electric motor. of course it would help to see a torque curve from a specs sheet here to determine that. however i dont know what the motor part number is.
for the high gear it could also be altered or adjusted. for optimizing to other chosen softer materials such as wood or plastics etc. which need to run faster
To be fair, I don't understand why you want to go to lower RPM than the low gear allows you to. What you want to do is illogical. When you are drilling with small drill bits, you actually want high RPM, otherwise you will break the drill bit. The friction will also generate far too much heat, so you'll make it into a dull drill in no time. What you are saying makes no sense to my ears. I drill a lot of very small holes in metal and those require high RPM. Actually, most of the time, drilling in plastics means lower RPM than in metal, but of course, that depends on the plastic and the drill bit you are using. Large drill bits require slower RPM, but never slower than than this machine can deliver. Anyway, I would not modify the machine regarding the RPM, but there is a gear box, so if you want to, and can find, or make the right gear combination then it may be possible. Anyway, the general rule of thumb is: small drill => high RPM, large drill => low RPM regardless of material. Otherwise you will burn the material or the drill, or both.
@@AdaptingCamera unfortunately i cannot remember the precise reason for this. however it was something recently featured by ox tools, within a monday night meatloaf episode. tom lipton was fingering through some really old machinists book and was explaining that while this is something that is completely counter intuitive, smaller drill bits can in fact require a slower cutting speed. maybe it had something to do with the material depth on thicker materials. but i really cannot remember now. tried looking for it but unfortunately i have this stupid bug in by we browser. and his meatloaf videos are not indexed or time stamped. and i simply cannot remember which episode. but it must have been one of the last 3, so maybe 141, 140 or 139. this guy is a well respected long time professional and very dedicated machinist and so i am sure you would find his advice of relevance, and of value. so i dont think your time would be wasted to find out here
and yes, they do noodle a lot more so there is then a compromise or a limitation in how slow you can actually go down to. but i have now tried it myself (just with a hand power drill, going into steel). and it actually works!! (believe it or not)
so will try to download those episodes and then get a better reference for you to watch... it just take some more time
@@dreamcat4 OK thanks, but I don't know who he is or what a "Monday night meat loaf" is. Anyway, if you believe him and believe that the whole world is wrong and he is right than that's fine for me. I will continue drilling as I learned and have been doing it for many years. One thing which is very important is that you are using the right drill bits for the material. Many people ignore this and just buy any cheap crappy "universal" drill bits and use that on everything and then complain about the machine they are using... :)
Great video, thanks. I'm probably going to buy the PBD40 (Black Friday sale) and I was wondering if you know of a compatible chuck that goes down to 0.5mm?
Thank you for your comment. I am not a chuck expert, but the 871039 goes from 0.5mm but only to 10mm. czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html that is compatible with this one, but I think this machine is not that good for such thin drill bits. I did drill 0.6mm holes with it, but broke a few before success, so be prepared.
@@AdaptingCamera Thank you for your helpful response and advice. :)
hello, if we want to keep the bearings as it is and we only want to change the chuck as you did, then what chuck variation do you suggest because in rohm site has a lot.i want 1-13 chuck size.but it has 4 different variations.should i take the 871050? thanks
Please watch the video. I think I am very very clear in it about which chuck to buy and why. Only one of the 1-13 fits this machine.
Hi @Adapting Camera , thanks for the info. I want to see if I can remove my existing chuck before buying the upgrade. Does the chuck unscrew in the normal sense, ie turning it clockwise viewed from above? And the allen key fits between the jaws of the chuck, so no particular size? Thanks for your advice.
Hi Eamonn, Yes, to unscrew you rotate the chuck in clockwise direction seen from above. Your chuck may feel totally non-removable, but don't worry, you can do it if you do it right. Probably you need a piece of pipe also, just like I did. Mine was VERY hard to remove when I did it for the first time, and I mean REALLY VERY HARD, so I definitely couldn't have done it without the pipe and without actually fixing the axis with the help of the16mm spanner. Follow every advise on how to remove it, starting here: czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html and you should be fine. Whatever you do, don't use a hammer because it will damage your motor axis and the chuck you are trying to remove. The Allen key should be a large one, as large as you can find, the larger the better because it makes it easier to remove the chuck. Make sure you are buying the right replacement chuck with 1/2"-20 thread, not B16.
@@AdaptingCamera Many thanks - I'll give it a go!
Success - I may have a few burst blood vessels but the chuck is off! :) Thanks again.
@@eamonnmcgreevy6665 Great news! So yours was just as difficult as mine to remove... Good luck with the replacement. My PBD 40 is like night and day. It is really a joy using it now. I don't understand why Bosch selected that chuck at all. It is for hand drill machines and impact drills, not for bench and pillar drill machines, and actually the price of both chuck types are about the same, at least if I compare Amazon prices. BTW, I did not use any super glue on the new chuck. The machine rotates in one direction and is tightening the chuck on the axis during the rotation, so there is no need for super glue.
@@AdaptingCamera Yes, tough to remove, I was about to give in but give it one final squeeze and it relented with a crack, not quite an explosion. Quick question though... I want to now sell the original chuck on eBay and need the exact item no. Is it 1193005: eshop.roehm.biz/roehm_de_en/1193005.html ?
That was about 0,15mm runout since you had the lever of the DTI in 45° angle. Better than they promised and the Supra S could have that amount as well according to their specs. The Spiro series are the more precise ones, although even them aren't very high precision
I didn't look at the Spiro series, but you are wrong regarding the new chuck I installed. It is better than the original for several reasons, one is that it has less runout even according the specs, the other is that it is MADE for pillar drill, unlike the original one which is made for hand drill, the third is that it can take smaller drill bits, the fourth is that it does NOT have that stupid extra ring for locking, the fifth is that the original one some times releases the drill bit because the locking ring is not always locking tight enough and the self locking mechanism is a joke... I can go on an on about the differences, but if you don't care, that's fine. You probably don't have the machine and never handled that chuck, otherwise you would know all that.
I have found your video most helpful and informative. I recently found that my PBD 40 drill press has developed a jerky action and I removed the plastic covers and found a loose wire hanging in mid air (it is a blue colour). Do you perhaps have a wiring diagram of this machine because I cannot be sure where exactly the loose wire goes back. Just for more information it is the 220 volt power supply coming from the input cable which is hanging loose (the blue one); the other purple one for power supply goes directly to the variable speed switch.
Thank you very much for your kind words and comments. Unfortunately, I don't have the wiring diagram, and don't have enough time right now to open it up to have a look inside. It is though very strange that a wire is loose inside the box. There are several blue wires inside if I look at this video, there is at least one at the bottom: czcams.com/video/f5hLR6-9dEg/video.html and one at the top: czcams.com/video/f5hLR6-9dEg/video.html but have a look at the whole video, perhaps it will help you somehow. It is in Russian, which I don't really understand, but it may be worth watching the video anyway.
@@AdaptingCamera :- No problem. By a process of deduction I worked out where the loose wire should go and my Bosch PBD 40 is now back in good working order. Wishing you a good day from Cape Town, South Africa.
@@GentlemanH Thank you very much. I am glad you worked it out. All the best to you from the other end of the world, Sweden. I actually lived five years in SA a long long time ago, not in Cape Town, but in Joburg. Been around a lot but for some reason, never in Cape Town.
Hi there thanks for the info.. But i have question.. Can i use a 16mm or 20mm chuck on this drill press and if so what is the best option to go for.. Thanks again sir
Thank you for your comment. You could use a 16 mm chuck but remember that you will lose the ability to use small drills. The 16 mm chucks are also much heavier and larger. The Rohm 871062 Supra S 3-16 is one example but it is 340 g heavier and 14 mm longer. The original chuck is 375 g so already the one I chose is about 200 g heavier and about 5 mm longer than the original, I would not add even more weight and size. Also remember that the motor is only 710 W so it is not that strong. In my opinion 13 mm is the optimal limit, and of course, in my opinion, the one I chose is the best, at least for my needs. 13 mm does not mean that you can't drill larger holes, I have drilled very large wholes, also in metal, but you need the right drill.
@@AdaptingCamera Sir thanks alot for these valuable information, you've been so informative. I think I will stick with your advice since it really makes a lot of sense. I wish you a very cheerful day.. Stay safe my friend 👍🏼🌹
I just buy Bosch PBD40. Rounout on original chuck is about 0.07 mm, right out off box. I will measure rounout again after some drilling.
I just measure rounout after some drilling and still 0.07. Chuck on my Bosch PBD 40 is Röhme Supra-SK E from factory.
Does every PBD-40 have the same thread 1/2 *20mm for the chuck? How did you know that the ROHM was the 871050 or the 871046?
The thread is 1/2" 20 UNF. It is NOT mm thread, it means the diameter is 1/2" and the the thread pitch is 20, meaning there are 20 threads for each inch length. 871046 has a B12 mount, it is not a 1/2" 20, as you can see in the table here: czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html 871039 fits also, but the chuck is for smaller drill bits, from 0.5mm to maximum 10mm diameter. I need the maximum 13mm and never drill less than 1mm on this machine, so for me the the 871050 was the best alternative. The original chuck had a span of 1.5-13mm, so my new one has a bigger span anyway.
I'm inexperienced in the use of precision measurement gear, but I thought at 2:05 the lever arm should swing in the horizontal plane (ie. such that the dial face would be in the vertical plane) - wouldn't that better measure runout?
Actually, it makes no difference for that instrument. It shows the to and from direction of the movement. If the dial would be facing vertical it would still be the same to and from movement. Anyway, the most important for me is not to quantify the measurement precision, but to see the difference of before and after, which can be seen at czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html and as long as the setup is the same, the difference is clearly visible.
Thoose 0.07 can be from The arbor Off The Machine.
Yes, it's possible.
Hello, thank you for this very interesting video.
I myself own a PDB40 and unfortunately I have problems drilling straight. I am not a mechanical expert but do you think that changing the drill bit is a good idea?
I am not a mechanical expert but do you think that changing the chuck to the Röhm Supra 13S 1/2" (871050) will solve this problem?
I have been working mainly on wood and some aluminium.
Thank you very much for your feedback and sharing your experiences.
🇫🇷
Thank you for your comment. It is difficult to answer your question without exactly knowing the problem or having seen the results. "Not drilling straight" means for me that the drilled hole is not 90° to the table surface. In that case I think it is your table attachment not properly installed and aligned to the drill head, or the column holding the drill head is not squared properly to the surface. You should start by checking the alignments and square the machine properly. Buying a new chuck would improve handling and the chuck wobble. I don't know if it would fix your problem, since I don't know what exactly means "not drilling straight".
Thank you for your reply and your responsiveness.
You are right, the expression "straight drilling" is a bit vague and I apologise for that.
I meant drilling at 90°.
My table is orthogonal to the drilling axis.
What I have noticed is that there is almost always a deviation of the drill bit between the entry point and the exit point.
Hence my question about a possible cause due to the concentricity problem, which would make the drill deviate under the cutting force.
Take care of yourself and your family.
@@marcciesla9238 Thank you for clarifying that. Anyway, I am by no means an expert, but it's a rotating tool, so the way I see it, it can't make holes which are not aligned with the motor spindle axis. So the only way I can think of making holes which are not 90° compared to the material surface is if the measured surface is actually not parallel to the table, or the column is not 90° to the table in every direction. Even if the machine head is not aligned to the column, the hole should still be aligned after drilling, but would be bigger than the actual drill. This is also the case if you have concentricity issues. Concentricity problems means the drill is not in the exact centre of the rotation, so it is not concentric. That means that the hole it is drilling will be bigger than the actual diameter of the drill. The chuck I have now has a better concentricity than the original chuck had, so now I can drill smaller holes without breaking the drill bit, and of course, I can now drill holes which have the diameter of the drill bit, so now I have higher accuracy.
Thank you very much for taking the time to reply to my last comment.
Your analysis is good.
It is now up to me and my PDB40 to improve on this... Lol
Greetings from France
II am in the process of changing the chuck, can you please tell me what size allen key you used? I am having extreme difficulty removing the old chuck because it keeps releasing the key as soon as I try rotating the chuck to loosen, thanks!
Hi, I think I used a 10 mm (220 mm long) Allen key plus the tube to extend it. The trick to tighten the Allen key in the chuck is that the jaws must be parallel to the key sides. Be careful, if the Allen key is incorrectly inserted and tightened, you may never be able to release it again. It is important that the chuck gets a good grip on the Allen key sides, otherwise it may get stuck when you twist it. Good luck, I hope you manage to remove it. Mine was also very difficult to remove the first time, maybe they glued the threads, or maybe it was because I have used the machine for several years before removing the chuck, or maybe the original chuck was installed by a huge alpha male with too much muscles and too little brains... 😂
I'm researching for a press drill. Bosch PBD 40 has a mix of good and bad reviews.
Some say that it tend to bend a it when tighting as the column is too flexible. This means the drilling angle is not 90 degrees anymore. Is it right?
I can have it for 255€. If I buy the RÖHM Supra 871050 for 75€, total is 330€.
Is it worth buying, or are there better options?
I don't know who say such stupid thing. It's not a pillar drill, it's a bench drill, so if you want perfectly drilled holes you must think about that, but there is no way you can drill anything other than 90° holes unless you tilt the head or the fot. The column is not weak, it's very stable and rigid, but for best results you should fix it to a sturdy bench. Mine is bolted and is drilling very precise holes. You can't get a better machine for 330€, that's for sure. If mine would die today I'd buy a new one to replace it with. You can buy a lot cheaper machines, but those are definitely not better or equal.
@@AdaptingCamera Thanks for this clarification.
Hi, can you measure the run-out again with the new chuck you installed in 2020? How is it now more than a year later?
Good question. I will measure it as soon as I have time, but currently, my way of "measuring" is simple. I use this machine mostly on metal, so now and then I measure the hole diameters. Just yesterday I needed some precise 5mm and 10mm holes, so I measured those, and they were all very precise, right size all of them. That was never the case with the original chuck, so I guess that the run-out is still very good. I still have to change the bearings, just need to find the time to do it.
hello, thank you for your video and for sharing the reference of the chuck I ordered it on sale 60€! I saw that some people have changed the bearings is it really necessary in your opinion? thank you for taking your time to answer me
Thank you for the comment. I didn't change the bearings yet because it's more work than I have time for. Maybe one day I will. I am sure it improves the machine even more, especially in my case, since my machine is old and well used.
@@AdaptingCamera yes that's why I wonder, it's a lot of work and a bit risky that's why I wonder if the chuck is enough
@@quentinschreiber7926 I really can't say if it's enough for you or not, only that it's enough for me for now. It improved my machine a lot, but I one day I will definitely replace the bearings also. I have all the bearings needed, just have to do the work.
Hi, excellent video. Would you think the chuck wobble is worse than cheap entry level 'traditional' style bench drills? Surely not. I mean like the cheap one 300-500W units that all look the same like they came from the same factory just with different colours and stickers.
Hi, I never had one of those cheap ones, but when I bought the PBD40 I looked at the cheaper ones and felt that all of them were flimsier in design and the chuck wobble was noticeably worse on those. Even the quill wobbles on most of them, though that can be trimmed to a limit. Because of the poor, cheap design, those machines must really be upgraded and improved already day one. I think if you are looking for a better machine and want a traditional bench drill then you must buy one for at least twice the price of the PBD40.
I purchased the Röhm chuck you used to upgrade my Bosch chuck but it came without the screw threaded Mount and now needs the addition of an Arbor which prevents it being fitted to the Bosch PDB 40 Bench Drill. It seems the screw-on version of the upgrade is no longer available.
I don't know what you mean by no longer available... I mean, it's made and is definitely available but perhaps not in the shop you wanted to buy it from. You can buy it from here: eshop247.roehm.biz/DE-en/supra-s-264.html Sorry you ordered the wrong one, try to return it because you have no use for that one. When you order you must type the right part number. Only the ones with 1/2"-20 mount fit this machine, and the one I am using is the 871050. That is very important when you buy the chuck.
@@AdaptingCamera thank you for responding to my comment. I think being sent the non-threaded version bearing the model no. 871050 didn’t help and suggested the correct chuck in your video was not available now. I spoke to RÖHM and they confirmed 871050 to be the threaded one as you state. Quite why the one I bought from V-TOOLSTORE in Germany isn’t the threaded one albeit bearing the same model number confused the guy at RÖHM so not sure what’s going on at V-TOOLSTORE 🤷🏼♂️. But I was advised by RÖHM in U.K. to contact a U.K. company called Cromwell to buy the correct one and it’s being delivered Monday. The non-compliant one will go back to Germany for a refund. Thanks for a great video and your help towards me sorting it out. 👍🏻
@@TonyGator78 If they sent you the wrong chuck they should exchange it for free. The Röhm product numbers are different and unique. The 871050 is the only one with that number and that is threaded. If that shop told you otherwise then they are lying.
@@AdaptingCamera I asked them if they could get the version with a threaded back end but after saying today that they cannot they agreed to a refund. I have contacted RÖHM at their U.K. distribution centre and while they cannot sell me the correct one they told me who could and I ordered it today. So hopefully I will get it on Monday and the refund will pay for it. 👍🏻
I hope you can help. I tried you method of chuck removal, but the locking mechanism seems to have broken and now when i exert force on the chuck with the Allen key it just opens the chuck so that the Allen key falls out. Any ideas?
I am sorry for the problem you experience. Maybe the locking mechanism is not really broken, so try rotating the Allen key slightly so that all three jaws get a good grip of the Allen key surfaces and then try to lock it again. If it clicks then you are good, but if not then your only option is to use some sort of special tool made for chuck removal. There are two holes on the top of the chuck, above the red locking ring, so if you insert two pins into those then you should be able to twist and remove the chuck. If that doesn't help then you could get an adjustable pipe wrench with rounded jaws, put some soft metal (aluminium or cuper) sheets between the jaws and the chuck and lock it on the top ring, above the red locking ring. That should definitely do the job. Just be careful, the chuck gets easily damaged if you are not using some soft metal sheets between the wrench and the chuck. At the same time, you must tighten it hard enough so that the wrench is not slipping. Good luck, I hope you will be able the remove the chuck, especially if the locking mechanism is really broken.
Just for clarity (since the Rohm link isn't working): It seems like the actual model showed here is the '871050', which he points out at 5:35.
Thanks. Yes, it is the 871050 and I don't understand why the link is dead. Maybe they stopped making it with that number.
@@AdaptingCamera Seems more like it's some sort of page update where they didn't migrate the links. I bought that same model from them just this week and installed it a few minutes ago. That first chuck is stuck on there really tight, but the 'handle' tricked work (eventually). No loud bang, but a lot of sweat! Thanks for the video. Really appreciated!
@@Drokkstar_ Good news. Thank you for your comment. I am glad it helped you out.
Are there any decent Jacob's chucks equivalent to the one you used
Sorry, I have no idea. Any chuck with 1/2" - 20 works, but I have no idea which is good and which is not.
Hi and thank you for posting this! I was wondering if we can safely conclude that the infamous play this drill exhibits is only produced by the chuck and that the quill has no contribution.
Hi, No, don't draw that conclusion. There are other reasons for the play also, I think that the bearings are some of the reason. Never the less, changing the chuck makes a HUGE difference, as far as precision drilling is concerned. I will make an attempt to change the bearings also, I already have a full set of high quality bearings, and will do it as soon as I have time. Will post a video about that too.
@@AdaptingCamera Looking forward to that one. Thank you!
@@AdaptingCamera Well done. I look forward for the next upgrade too. Compliments.
It still hasn't happened by the looks of it :(
@@riccardocatalano1553
Excellent video, great discussions in the comments as well. I experience some rotational play with the whole drill-head along the post. Is this something you have experienced / fixed? Ordered a new chuck. :)
There is a slight wobble, but it never prevented me from drilling accurate holes.
@@AdaptingCamera I actually saw (after I wrote my previous comment) that you mentioned this issue as well in the conversation below. Interesting that it doesn't affect drilling. Feels like one might tend to pull it to the side when drilling. Also, did you ever change the needle-bearing?
@@JWAM If you start drilling at a precise spot then as soon as you have started there will be a guide for the drill bit, so it stays there. The drill head is not wobbling during the actual drilling, only when in the air and only when pushed. There is no uncontrolled vibration, which would create too large holes or breaking the bit. Anyway, it's on my "to do" list, but have no time, and since it is no big issue, the priority is set accordingly. BTW, you asked about the needle bearing, and the answer is the same. Not been changed due to the fact that it takes time and during that time I can't use the machine, and I also don't see that it causes such issue that I can motivate spending time on it. But one of these days...
@@AdaptingCamera I will post a link here and the message in the next, in case this gets censored. czcams.com/video/HguFMdCACJc/video.html
@@AdaptingCamera If you didn't receive my message with the link, please check your spam-filtered messages in the CZcams menu. Look at 2:58 and the obvious wobble of the whole head. The bigger the forstner-bit or hole-saw, the bigger the problem, I guess. Thanks for the update on the bearings. I think I'll change the chuck and try to reduce the play (a simple shim somewhere?) and see if it feels sturdy enough.
Apparently they didn't use as much thread locker on mine, as I could quite easily loosen mine by hand with a 10mm allen key.
I have noticed that the more I tighten the chuck to the spindle, the worse the runout gets at the tip of my drill bit.
You are lucky. If mine was easy to remove I would have done that day one after opening the box. Though, I don't understand how can get worse runout when you tighten yours. Something must be wrong. Maybe your drills are crap, maybe your chuck is wrongly assembled. You should claim warranty because it is not normal, not even for really low end drill machines.
@@AdaptingCamera I think it might be due to the one of the mating surfaces on either the chuck or the spindle not being perfectly perpendicular to the thread. That way, when the tread is tightened, the misalignment will get worse. If i only tighten it by hand, there is almost no wobble at the tip of the drill bit. Remember, i am talking about tightening the chuck to the spindle, not the drill bit to the chuck.
If it is the mating surface on the spindle though, it will not help changing the chuck. Unfortunately I have no way of checking it, as my dial gauge is not "petite" enough to get close enough to the tread to be able to make a reading all the way round. I would need a lever type dial gauge for that. And the one I would like to have (Mitutoyo) is more than $200.
It is a bit like a bench grinder. If the spindle's mating surface is out of allignment, no amount of dressing the stone will make the vibrations go away, because the stone wobbles sideways.
@@HepauDK OK, thanks. It sounds still very strange and if you are right plus the fact that your chuck was not glued, then my guess is that this should be a manufacturing problem with your machine, so it should definitely be returned and you should claim warranty service, which in this case means replacement of the whole machine head.
@@AdaptingCamera I want a different chuck no matter what, the original just isn't meant for drill presses. But if that doesn't solve the problem, I will deffinitely return it.
Update: I just got a Röhm Supra L in the mail, and what a difference! I haven't checked the runout yet, but the tip of the Bosch forstner bit I tested it with was dead center.
"Much improvement, so wow!". :)
Best part is that I bought it as a Wolfcraft part at about 2/5 of what I would have paid for a Supra S. :D
Had to wait for it to get shipped from France to Denmark, but well worth the wait.
Thanks for the useful video. Following your advice I made the same upgrade. My problem is that now the drilling depth gauge is not correctly working. It works when the machine is not in operation, but once I start it it will constantly indicate different depth even when I do not touch it. Does anyone experienced the same issue? (I Hope I’m clear)
Yes, I think you are clear, but I can hardly imagine that the actual change of chuck caused the issue. However, you could open the side of the machine and check is the slider attachment or the other part is a bit lose. Maybe one or two screws need to be tightened inside the machine which causes your problem.
@@AdaptingCamera thanks, I agree with you. I’ll open it and check it inside
@@polochevs Good luck. I hope you will fix it.
Hi, I came across your video as I am trying to remove the chuck as well. I can't get mine off somehow. I tighten it as hard as possible but the chuck is slipping and nothing is happening. At some point the allen key just falls out. Like you mentioned I never used brutal force and definitely not a hammer. Any tips on how to take it off? Thanks!
Hi, I am sorry you have the same sort of problem I had. If the Allen key falls out then it is not inserted properly. The Allen key has six sides, you must make sure that three comes in contact with the three chuck jaws. Be careful, if you tighten it wrong you may damage the chuck. There is another option to remove the chuck, but it requires some DIY to make a tool. On the top of the chuck there are two holes, here you can see one: czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html those holes can be used to get a good grip to hold the chuck, but you need an insert in both holes, otherwise you will damage the chuck. It is pretty simple to make such a tool, or maybe you can find something similar ready made tool which can help you out. I intend to make one and show it, but it may take some time. Basically, what's needed is a ring with two pins which fit into those two holes. Anyway, it seems that some chucks are more difficult to remove than some others. Maybe they applied more glue to yours and mine. Good luck.
@@AdaptingCamera Thanks for the reply! I guess there's some welding to be done then :)
@@michielmos1972 I don't think welding is necessary, at least I will not weld, as I don't have any possibility to do it and have a simpler idea.
@@AdaptingCamera I just tried it with a pair locking pliers on the upper ring. I can twist the ring but it doesn't come off..... I think internally there's something damaged.... Oh man, this is a project that going to take days I'm afraid
@@michielmos1972 I am sorry if you broke it, and to be honest, I don't know how that is possible. I tried with a wrench initially, but quickly realized it was not a good idea, if nothing else, it would leave ugly marks. Anyway, I hope you manage to solve it. Does it mean that now you can't insert a drill and tighten the chuck at all? Maybe that's why the Allan key fell out all the time.
Be careful. In my case, I completely destroyed the chuck. I did it according to the presentation on youtube. The inbus key cannot be tightened well in the chuck and from there I started to have problems. The problem in my case is that the chuck is blocked after this procedure and is not possible to fix it. At the end I cut the chuck with the angle grinder( flex), so pay close attention.
I don´t understand how you managed to destroy the chuck. You must always check that the Allen key is properly tightened and NEVER use a hammer or anything that you hit it with. Many video on CZcams shows chuck removal totally wrong. Hitting the Allen key might cause damage to the chuck. Also, one can also use a chuck removal tool, which actually fits in the two upper wholes of the chuck and use that, not the Allen key, but most people don't have such tool. The method with the Allen key is safe, but as always, you must know what you are doing BEFORE. Attacking the chuck the wrong way may of course cause damage.
@@AdaptingCamera Because allen key is not enaugh tight in this quick chuck ,this is the reason.
@@alexandrubogdanjacob In this respect, this chuck is not different from any other chuck. It is possible to tighten it enough and safely remove the chuck, but you must do it properly AND the Allen key must be large enough AND as I said, NEVER use a hammer. Tightening it like a drill bit and using brute force and hammer can destroy any chuck. I am pretty sure that this was the reason you destroyed your chuck. Your Allen key was not tightened (you did not check it in time) and you used brute force. How to tighten the chuck with difficult bits is described in the manual of PBD40. It is NOT my fault if you did not read it and started to remove the chuck without checking that it has a good grip on the Allen key. It is also possible that there was something wrong with your chuck already before. Anyway, saving the old chuck was not my goal, so even if I'd have destroyed mine I would not cry over it, since it is really crap. I would definitely not sell it or replace any of my other chuck with that one. It's the worst I have ever seen on any machines I ever had.
I also had issue with presented method. in my case, 12 hex+pipe, the lock mechanism yielded and chuck started turning on it's own, rattling.
I ended up grinding two parallel planes on the metal part to have better grip with a french+pipe extension and that finally did it.
Also exchanged both bearings of the chuck shaft. Used a concrete anchor to extract the little one.
Result? Zero play to naked eye 😁👍
And just in case - NO. HAMMER. WAS. USED. i should know - i was there 😑
Your checking the runout on the drill bit not the chuck???
The drill bit does not have that huge runout. It would be totally useless with that much runout. Also, the same drill bit is used on both chucks, and after the change the runout is dramatically reduced. The reduction is a fact, it has nothing to do with the drill bit since the same one is used in both cases.
Hello there from South Africa
Thanks for sharing and showing this change over. Much appreciated.
Just to confirm the MOUNTING on this chuck, it is 1/2-20 ??? Is that correct ?? Do kindly confirm this as it's surprising BOSCH (European) used Imperial Threads ???!!!
Thanks in advance..
aRM
Well, what is there to confirm? It's in the video czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html and it fits my machine. I think it even says in the manual, but not sure. It definitely shows on the original chuck, so you can check on your machine to confirm for yourself, but so far you are the first of 15 700 global viewers doubting this information. In fact, it is VERY common and I don't think Röhm actually has any metric threads at all even though Röhm is originally from Germany as far as I know. Anyway, very few machines use metric threads on chuck. I even have another, Made in West Germany (yes, it's that old) drill machine which also has 1/2-20 chuck, so it is not exactly strange at all in Europe that in some areas imperial units are used, for example aviation, carpentry, different machines... you name it.
Thanks Ar M this is the critical information I needed
1/2” x 20, and 3/8” x 20 UNF are the standard size threads for drill chucks….there are loads that will fit…Jacobs, Rohm etc…
Which version of chuck is this one, there are 10+ listed.
Did you watch the video? There is only one item with that number. czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html and czcams.com/video/nCqVoaGVK8g/video.html
hello - did you play with bearings replacement as well?
No, not yet. I have all the bearings I need, but have not yet done the job.
@@AdaptingCamera thanks, I am still thinking about this drill but I am not decide to go an buy or not. or maybe pick belt driven Ryobi, but on the other site they also have the loosening problem
@@piotrkowalski8995 It's not an easy decision. I was also sceptical to this machine because I thought that the traditional belt driven machines are way better, but then I reconsidered and realized that this machine is more useful for me, and has several advantages. Some of those are: 1.) Easy to change speed, and I use that feature constantly. On a belt driven machine it is inconvenient, so I think most people just use the same speed which results in burning the material, the drill bit (or both), but in any way, not optimal use. 2.) It has a powerful DC motor, as opposed to the belt driven machines, which always use AC motors. 3.) Constant torque, regardless of speed, which is possible due to the DC motor. Other things are bells and whistles, but comes to a good use now and then, like the clamping, the depth gauge, the laser, these do exist on some of the belt driven machines also. If I needed to buy a new drill machine, I'd still buy this one, no doubt about that.
@@AdaptingCamera thanks! I think I buy this unit, its not that lot of money and to be honest in that price range we wont find anything better I guess. Cant wait to see a video with the bearing replacement. I saw few over the YT but none of them shows how to remove it properly from the gearbox housing and how to put it back all in one place without leaving any screw :) BTW. great vid of yours.
@@piotrkowalski8995 I did in fact pulled mine apart already the first week, but at that time I did not want to change anything before I really KNEW what I must change. I only opened it to see the quality inside so that I know what to expect in the future. There are not that many screws to leave out after assembly, but there are some plastic screw holes which might break easily, so be careful when you unscrew and assemble it.