Prepping The Jaguar V12 Engine Block For Overhaul.
Vložit
- čas přidán 6. 09. 2024
- Despite a several months long lay-off from any strenuous activity due to my tussel with bladder cancer, I have been able to make some progress with the help of my son Bill and a friend doing the heavy lifting. After a preliminary clean-up it's time to determine what these engines need to prep them for re-assembly
I love these videos - they highlight the significant amount of work and specific expertise required for a Jag V12 engine rebuild.
Sir, I am waiting for your videos. I am collecting an engine for my friend and all your stories are very important to me.
Great stuff Bob. You have the best Jaguar V12 videos.
Thanks Jeff.
I used to keep reusable studs from scrap engines.
Thanks for these videos. I enjoy them, and my Jag benefits from them 😎
Great Video, looking forward to getting on with mine in the summer
Good Job!
Nice to have you back and working on engines. Have you thought about whipping up a DIY (or buying) an induction heater and creating a custom shaped coil to fit down into the stud/block feature area to maximize heat applied for removing studs?
Also, would it be possible to find the proper material tempered 0.4357" rods and use a lathe or die to make your own studs? (Seems possibly lest costly if ARP level strength isn't' required and just a reasonably high MPA would do...
Next weeks episode will be about studs.
Yes, i got rid of my cats too. I'm not talking about the 4 legged ones.
Hi Bob from Victoria, Australia. I’m keen to see in explicit detail how to correctly set up and install the rear main seal in your coming videos. I’m currently ready to build my v12 and know that this is a crucial step to get right. Please offer all do’s and dont’s, hints and tips. I have bought a rear main rope seal with graphite impregnated from a ford big block as I have been advised this is a better seal medium to use? Recommendations please? I’ve also watched a previous video from the $100 overhaul challenge on installing the rear main seal but I have a question. Can I use the crank shaft to correctly “size” the rope seal instead using the “sizing tool” as shown. Your expert opinion will be much appreciated.
Derek in Buffalo, Victoria, Australia
The crankshaft cannot be used to size the seal. It is too small and the heat generated by the friction will not only ruin the seal but could ruin the rear bearing as well. I'm not a fan of the Ford seal, it's seems more difficult to get it to the bottom of the groove. My process is to soak a stock seal in oil a couple of days, while you're waiting find a piece of round pipe or solid billet slightly smaller than the tool diameter and push the seal into the groove. Tapping with a dead blow hammer is allowed. Trim the ends about 1/16" long on all ends and taper the sides except that next to the crankshaft to prevent squeeze out between the block and cap. Which it always does a bit anyway. Place the tool in position and torque to spec. I leave it in place a few days and wiggle it a bit each day as I walk by. Remove the cap, touch up the squeeze out that may exist between the block and cap, and it's ready to install.Some people use lock graphite to coat the seal before installing the crank. And you'll need the tool adapter at the bottom of the page. www.terrysjag.com/product//303012X.html
Hi Bob. Thanks for the excellent and detailed response. So just to follow up on your guidance. The Crankshaft journal diameter where the rope seal touches is to small you say than the install sizing tool?? Is this because in normal running conditions the seal expands under oil pressure? Excuse my ignorance if that sounds absurd as I’m just wanting to correctly understand if there is a difference in diameters (sizing tool vs Crankshaft journal). My initial thoughts were that I could install the rope seal and push into place using a socket or pipe as you explained, trim the seal as you explained but then use the crankshaft to “size” the seal. So having the crankshaft torqued down but leaving it a few days and also wiggle it as you said like using the tool. Would this work? I’m assuming not as you have already stated that the crankshaft journal is to small. So can you please elaborate on the importance of using the tool over using the crankshaft to correctly size the rear main seal.
Thanks
Derek in Victoria, Australia
@@derekmclaughlin6588 The seal surface on the crank is slightly smaller than. the sizing tool. While it does make contact, the friction is less than if. it would be installed the old fashioned way. The helical groove works oil that would otherwise leak past the seal back into the crankcase. Without the sizing tool, there is a 50/50 chance the seal will leak and a better than that chance it will overheat the rear bearing. The tool must be used to avoid this.
Have you tried 3m Roloc disc for gasket surfaces? There supposed to be good for gasket surfaces
On cast iron maybe. The consequences for getting it wrong are to great.
900 bucks just for those TTY studs, I don't know, maybe that's why they're swapping these Jag V12's with V8's. I would like to rebuild my V12 engines, but facts are facts. I'm not a millionaire.
I have a 90's engine stripped and it looks new on the inside, are they better quality? I never seen any like that before.
These two engines were in a salvage lot for a reason.
i thought those cylinder head studs are supposed to be TTY and not re used anyway??
The AJ6 and later engines require stretch bolts but even those can be reused twice according to a Jaguar service bulletin.
Thanks, I didn't know that. @@thecampchaoschronicles9567
where do you buy the head studs??
They will be on my website sometime this summer.
Yes, things take longer, you must be in a blue state. Sorry to mention that, but it's probably true.
Bob, great to see you again and your absolute detailed vids... Being licensed for more than 47 years and seeing what you do brings back memories.. unfortunately now you can buy a crate engine cheaper faster, with warranty.. of course none of these classics.. my son wants almost 500 HP out his 86 V-12 xjs, and keeping it at stock 5.3 lt.. what do you think?
500 would be a big ask from an HE without boost. It's been done but the investment would be immense.
@@thecampchaoschronicles9567 .. thank you for the quick response.. what kind of HP did you get out of your race car.. and did you use any upgraded cam ? Or stand alone Ecu?
Take care of yourself..
@@petehalasz7547 Around 350 at the crank if I remember correctly. That's what I've been telling everyone, anyway. Mild cam upgrade, headers, mild porting, and Webers. No ECU. Everything else is stock.