Good catch and fix. Grabbing some 3M Cambic tape from an electrician during his required afternoon nap would be a useful addition to your invention rare materials collection. Peace. While mentioning electrical tape, not all tape is created equal. 3M makes some excellent ones and there are probably several others out there too that I haven't looked for. I always have these 3 on hand: Super 33 for everything important, Super 88 which is slightly thicker for thicker customers, and a self vulvanizing rubber tape of which there are many but the main benefit is having one that becomes a single layer of rubber over time if applied correctly. More on proper tape stretch techniques after some lacrosse time with our Border Collie crosses. Nah I'm just messing with ya, it self teaches using the old accumulated failure method. Read the comments, paper tape sounds like a good name. You've already seen it before I presume?
Actually it backfeeds from the alternator. If you put a diode in the wire, the current only feeds one way. I had this problem on a Chevelle after a motor swap. I decided to floor the throttle for a burnout on the street and the carb linkage got stuck wide open. I had a scary time with the street filling with tiresmoke while the brakes were straining to hold the vehicle from moving, and turning the ignition off did nothing. Switching to neutral would blow the engine... czcams.com/video/I0nyFxppPiI/video.html
@@InvincibleExtremes There's counter EMF when key goes off that bounces the relay with electromagnetism when it shuts off. Then it backfeeds from the alterernator/battery. Wiring in a diode between two of the relay poles makes sure it doesn't then keep connected. Your mechanical fix is keeping the relay from mechanically reconnecting from the momentary transient. This happens with the HEI because you end up keeping the eectronic module powered up, not just the coil. If you run a non-resistor wire instead of the resistance wire, eliminating the relay, this won't happen. The Chevelle I was fixing, they had a mechanical switch to completely disable the relay, hidden under the dash, but it wasn't connected and I didn't know, after the engine swap. The previous 350 welded the front rods to the crank and threw a rod through the side of the engine, when the oil pickup fell off the oil pump, before I worked on it... :-(
Fun fact. Thanks
Great idea!! I love the videos have been watching along time now, keep the videos coming....
Thanks!
That is the bomb man!
Love this 455 wagon
Good catch and fix. Grabbing some 3M Cambic tape from an electrician during his required afternoon nap would be a useful addition to your invention rare materials collection.
Peace.
While mentioning electrical tape, not all tape is created equal. 3M makes some excellent ones and there are probably several others out there too that I haven't looked for. I always have these 3 on hand: Super 33 for everything important, Super 88 which is slightly thicker for thicker customers, and a self vulvanizing rubber tape of which there are many but the main benefit is having one that becomes a single layer of rubber over time if applied correctly. More on proper tape stretch techniques after some lacrosse time with our Border Collie crosses. Nah I'm just messing with ya, it self teaches using the old accumulated failure method.
Read the comments, paper tape sounds like a good name. You've already seen it before I presume?
I've worked with various electrical tape back when I was an electrician myself ;-)
Faraday's cage has you. Once fixing relays internally all hope is gone. You're stuck an electrician no matter the layers of skill piled on top.
Ha! Sure does.
I usually grab relays from GM trucks at the junkyard, much better quality units, and nearly free
Very true
When I did my HEI swap I replaced the pink resistance wire with a regular wire 12 gauge I think.
Yup. That's the way to do it. I just didn't feel like chasing that wire down and wanted full 12v
Those little guys like to arc weld shut.
Yup.
Coil resistor
Here I is.
Good info.
Any idea on how long this "fix" will last? Good info.
Last one I did like this is still going. And I used paper tape on that one...
Thanks very much!
@@InvincibleExtremes
Actually it backfeeds from the alternator. If you put a diode in the wire, the current only feeds one way. I had this problem on a Chevelle after a motor swap. I decided to floor the throttle for a burnout on the street and the carb linkage got stuck wide open. I had a scary time with the street filling with tiresmoke while the brakes were straining to hold the vehicle from moving, and turning the ignition off did nothing. Switching to neutral would blow the engine... czcams.com/video/I0nyFxppPiI/video.html
Maybe. It hasn't been an issue since this fix.
@@InvincibleExtremes There's counter EMF when key goes off that bounces the relay with electromagnetism when it shuts off. Then it backfeeds from the alterernator/battery. Wiring in a diode between two of the relay poles makes sure it doesn't then keep connected. Your mechanical fix is keeping the relay from mechanically reconnecting from the momentary transient. This happens with the HEI because you end up keeping the eectronic module powered up, not just the coil. If you run a non-resistor wire instead of the resistance wire, eliminating the relay, this won't happen. The Chevelle I was fixing, they had a mechanical switch to completely disable the relay, hidden under the dash, but it wasn't connected and I didn't know, after the engine swap. The previous 350 welded the front rods to the crank and threw a rod through the side of the engine, when the oil pickup fell off the oil pump, before I worked on it... :-(
On some vehicles, you'll see the diode is already soldered on from the factory.
Makes sense. Something I'll have to look at later. This was a quick fix to avoid replacing the resistor wire.
Fun fact. Thanks
Thanks!