Homemade Double Bogie Wagon (For The Field Railway, Obviously..) Part One
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- čas přidán 13. 09. 2022
- This is so exciting - I'm making what will be my longest, strongest wagon ever, and learning a whole lot about chassis and rolling stock at the same time.
Here's the video I made about with wheels with tapered treads..
• More Homemade Railway ...
There are plenty more videos on garlic on our main CZcams channel - and more videos about the railway in the 'Railway' playlist..
Here's our main CZcams channel.. / wayoutwestx2
And here's my online shop www.ironpig.ie
And here's our Patreon page if you could spare a little to help.. www.patreon.com/user?u=2761318
And here's the Fairtube Union's page - fairtube.info/
If you need to contact me ... rustyironpig @ gmail.com
This is so exciting - I'm making what will be my longest, strongest wagon ever, and learning a whole lot about chassis and rolling stock at the same time.
Here's the video I made about with wheels with tapered treads..
czcams.com/video/VG49XIr_T4Y/video.html
There are plenty more videos on garlic on our main CZcams channel - and more videos about the railway in the 'Railway' playlist..
Tapered treads is how the big trains keep bogies (trucks in N America) straight
@@dylanhackbarth6390 well, the speed on this railway isn't as high as on the class 1's.
Is there a way to liquidise the manure and spray it on the garlic.
Just a thaught
tapered treads will only be an advantage at SPEED you dont get fast enough to need the self centering they provide. it would make your wheel production far more labor intensive and add complexity not required. as for hot to introduce the fecal matter to the fan so to speak i am surprised you havent run rail through the beds!!!! a simple platform and peon with a shovel works after that.... a flatbed cart would be great for harvest or fertilizing or weeding .. if you dont want a flatbed cart look at a snowblower and apply imagination. thanks for the videos
A hopper car, tip car, or a multi-plank wagon would work. Just Add Buffers!
Way out West Weekly Words of Wisdom: "Expectations are very heavy"
I like how the geese flew in for the shot, "It's time to shine!".
Your wife is great with the horse! Very calm and totally in control. Fun to watch.
Yes, thanks. She works with horses and children all day
The amount of times you said bogie in this video was very pleasing to me.
The sheer simplicity almost makes me cry
It really depends on what you exactly want to accomplish, but the bogeys are practically modular components already. You could bolt many a platform in between for different jobs. For what you were describing, i.e. transporting manure, I would build a trough that has the ability to pivot from side to side. An axle would go on either end that can be connected to the caster wheel frames. The pivoting mechanism makes emptying the trough easier, because you can simply pivot it from side to side and empty it as if it were a dumptruck on rails. This also works with your idea of having lanes in between the crops. If you're done with the trough, you can unbolt the axles and put another platform in between the bogeys.
It may even be simpler to have it rely on one of the bogies for this - they already rotate, and you would need less effort to spin it. If you could easily unpin the platform from the bogie, you could easily swing it around using the other bogie as a pivot and get a lot more leverage out of it without needing to make another pivot point, empty the load of the platform, and then reconnect it and take the wagon away
Hey mate, i work with casters quite a bit with my job, be careful not to side load the caster arms too much as they have a nasty habit of bending. Thank you for the content, i really enjoy how you solve problems with whats on hand.
Good to know!
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 i would recomend using steel rings instead of casters. 2 inch rings that fit inside the width of the bogies could work, you would need a pair of them for each bogie though, one on the bogie frame and one on the cargo frame(same style as on a semi, and very well greased) with a steel pin as center pivot with a sleeve on the cargo frame. also shorter bogies and pulling on the cargo frame and not the bogies so the bogies only have to carry the weight not pull/push aswell.
also for side tipping wagons you have the charcoal kiln make that but long and narrow, and put the pivot sligthly above center(rougly an inch or two) so it naturally hangs right side up and have pockets to put steel pipes in pointing up so you can use your own weight to help tip it
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 I would love to know where you're at so I could come see this in action
You have invented a new type of railway industry.. Agriculural railways... making a railway to make growing crops easier!!!
I would make a low flat bed (a design sort of like lego piece 87058) and put wheel barrels on it so they can be loaded and unloaded quickly while also allowing the ability to use the wagon for other things as well as hauling different materials if needed. As for the casters, it’s a good idea, but try and find a way to make your own or reinforce the ones you have (or test them to see how much weight they can handle before they collapse so you know if you need stronger ones to better gauge the new car’s applications)
You could make it big enough for two wheelbarrows und have their handles stick out either way over the bogies. Feels like a clever use of space.
What about putting the wheelbarrows sideways? Would the handles stick out too much?
@@gorgoreg I think this is perhaps cleverest, though it still relies on the idea of wheeling the wheelbarrows on and off, requiring a removable ramp or balancing on a board or set stations. Perhaps the most clever would be setting up a cart or wheelbarrow frame that can grab on to identical boxes which can be loaded onto a flat car, but that seems like it will take quite some time to accomplish and may not pan out, and the season for using it sounds like it’s already here.
Using wheelbarrows would make it a more versatile wagon, for longs, lumber, etc
@@farmerboy916 a modular wheelbarrow frame with latch In tubs of some manner sounds cool.
I think something you might consider with the hoppers is make them removable, so you could have the bogie car be multipurpose.
i like seeing this guy slowly making his horses obsolete
I wish I had one tenth of your drive, great to see there are others who think like this.
consider this, those casters have a nasty habit of breaking and bending and because you would have to center such a large load on them they will probably bend like a wet noodle if the load was off centered at all, what i think you should do is to take inspiration from your rail road, on top of the bogy's if you bend a circle of steel and then have mini rail wheels running in that circle you then have a axle with wheels that sits on the rail circle on the bogey cart, this would allow for much easier design around it and better weight distribution as now you can make the mounting point a longer area for the manure cart to fit onto.
About this, it should be fine to keep the existing castor center for it's place, but then it would fit to add an angle iron track (or weld a collar to a flat ring, I suggest on the inside edge) and one fixed wheel below each of the left/right frame beams riding on that track, and having the wheel axle be almost the same as the castor's wheel axle, just turned a little bit to better match the vertical pivot axle of the castor to roll smoothly on their track. It seems that adding a suspension at this spot may be favorable, along with relieving the central castor from sideways stiffness and vertical positioning duties, leaving only horizontal forces.
Just a simple beam spring suspended axle should work, as the centor of the castor at wheel axle height is free to pass that axle through.
A local scrapyard probably has suitable springs from an old van that are just past "roadworthy" but still good for your farm railway.
If you want a heavier car without hurting your rails, consider a third axle that's free to slide sideways to handle curves without any steering of your boogie axles. Your rails look likely limited by buckling strength local to where the wheel rides on them, and spreading the load over more wheels helps quite a lot.
I'm still completely fascinated by your ingenuity and positiveness. I know nothing about engineering, but I'm totally sold on your approach to life's challenges. I have no doubt you'll achieve your goals and do so with a great sense of achievement and satisfaction. I'm also a little bit envious of your approach to life in general. 👍👍👍
His positiveness also fascinates me. Although, I call it posititudity.
I think your best bet is a simple flatbed to put wheelbarrows on. That'll save time loading and unloading at each end, since you'll want to use wheelbarrows anyway. You might want to put something in place to secure them down, so they don't fall off the wagon and spill manure everywhere.
Alternatively, boxes that can be fitted inside a wheelbarrow would save the use of so many wheelbarrows, and the weight of dragging them around.
Eitther way, you'll have a flatbed wagon to use for other things that need moving. I reckon that once you've got it working, you'll find even more labour-saving uses for it.
I love the blackberry-fuelled blacksmithing!
Watching your videos is quite an adventure!
Like other commenters Tim, I think the castors would be lacking for this purpose. A readily available replacement is featured on the two front wheels of an scrap car in the form of steering uprights, hubs and bearings all in one package. In addition a shaft or tube could be run between that would allow for slung loads, barrows, buckets, skips etc, that could aid at least unloading, 45gallon oil drums cut in half on a swing assembly may be a starting point for muck carts.
Think I'd design the cart between the bogies to just be a sturdy flatbed with a plethora of mounting points (say, 1" ply with a grid of holes ~1" dia @ 6" spacing?). That'd allow for maximum modularity, and allow you to bolt a tip box or two for the main load, tie on some loaded crates, and maybe even attach some extra tooling (rail crane might be a cool/useful project) as each job requires. Plus, then you won't be left with a cart that can only do heavy soil hauls sitting around in between garlic fertilizing periods
Think I'd avoid hauling wheel barrows directly. Unless you go with the low slung bed and install loading ramps, hefting loaded barrows on and off that platform would make one sore back by the end of the day
Either way though, build looks awesome! Can't wait to see what you end up putting on it!
A long wagon that tips, probably won't work because when there is some sticky meterial inside, the whole wagon will tip over before the material slides out because the center of gravity will shift beside your narrow gauge rails. Maybe you can mount some adjustable feet which prevent the wagon from tipping over.
Or you built 3 smaller containers on it which can be tipped independently, so most of the mass will stay above the rails while tipping one container at the time.
A flat wagon for wheelbarrows will be the easiest and most versatile option, but it also has the smallest load carrying capacity.
Tim, at the bogies make two "fifth wheel plates" like on the rear of articulated trucks, that will handle any required up and down movement. Then fit each end of the wagon body with a King Pin like on the front of a semi trailer, and that will deal with the side to side rotation required.
As for moving quantities of horse manure to the garlic beds, you did mention fish tubs and the shallow ones should do the trick, not being too heavy for your backs and stackable on a wagon body with guide rails. Pick them up and walk them down the lines of garlic beds.
Mark from Melbourne Australia
Dear Reader,
I think of a steel bar (pipe), with tipper bodies (with funnel-shaped bottoms), so you could extent the rail into the field, and tip the containers left and right of the rails.
With kind regards,
Michel F. van den Brun
Dutch viewer
As an engineer for an American mainline railroad, I'm partial to intermodal containers. In your case, modify a wheelbarrow to carry 2 or 3 of those fishboxes, and the railcar can carry however many boxes you want to make it work with.
As you will likely want one car being loaded and another emptied, you'll need another set of trucks (bogies) anyways. I think you'll find that you won't have much problem making them short enough that the flanges just clear each other (leave maybe 1½-2in/37-50mm between the wheels).
As for the concern of the caster frames collapsing, can you get some square/rectangle pipe and use that to reinforce the caster metal?
The bogies themselves look plenty viable, but when you start throwing weight into it, I think those caster frames would be your weak point with the current design, just because they're so narrow in comparison to the rest of the wagon. If you could make some bearings of the same basic design, but wider like a lazy susan, it would probably be a lot more stable and distribute the weight easier. Unless you've got a really steep grade to contend with, I think you'd probably be okay without a lot of consideration for the up and down rotation; the material of the wagon bed itself will likely have some flex to it when distributed across the length, and if the bearings have a little bit of play, they can most likely handle the rest without a separate hinge.
Yes, you could be right!
Hi, I realy love your Railway Project!
I would suggest to make an low-loader style wagon for stacking Fishboxes or wheelbarrows onto it. The "low-loader between the dollies" seems best because of low center of mass and possibility of stacking 2 rows of fishboxes...
Flora is so lovely!
The caster-bodies will have problems if the center of the load is higher then them. You will get side forces that can easily bend the casters or destroy the pins holding the middle section. It would be a good idea if the center of mass is below the casters.
You could also bend the caster-body-sides flat. This would reduce the height and the resulting ears would help spreading the load. There is enough play to ignore the loss of freedom in the construction.
Possibly three lengths of c channel, one for the wheel on the wheelbarrow, and two for the props either side? You could add a simple hinged length on the middle piece to act as a ramp, you could even use it as a towing handle and a tongue by simply drilling two holes 90° apart, one through the bottom of the C-channel, one through both sides, so a T handle could be place in the horizontal holes, and a hitch pin through the vertical hole. If you made it one long box, you could build a trough that could be swung over the garden, and simply use a pushrod to move the contents, maybe even hinge the faceplate on the pushrod so it'd flip up and go over the stuff that just fell out of the shutter, then flip down to push more out. I hope that makes sense.
You could put a "ladder" on top, and have the backend mounted to go up/down+sideways and the front-end mounted for twisting+up/down motion, and then put shopping baskets in the steps of on top
Or with a wheelbarrow: put screws in each corner of it and lift them (with rope) just enough to not touch the ground
Or You could also keep the bogies+beam as is, perhaps extend the wooden beam, and hang either an IKEA shopping bag or a plastic trash carrier (watch Colin Furze's video about digging a tunnel, the ones in assorted colours) below the beam
perhaps a cradle between your bogies that will support your existing horse trailer, or a flatbed to haul 5 gallon buckets. Something that's easy and cheap to build and also unloads easily
Can't wait to move on my new piece of land that would "require" me to build my monorail to remove trees. These videos just give me more encouragement to do it!
Great...luv this old school approach to problem solving...Amway learning through necessity
you are literally my hero
Looks good so far, but the wheel bearing assembly is pretty high. Perhaps you could fold the 5th-wheel/pivot-tabs down to mount them. Basically, you would be left with a lazy-susan bearing to mount the box on.
Perhaps also, at some point you could make a power-tool powered locomotive. Taking something power tool, such as drill or saw, and convert it to make a locomotive. The Dewalt ones would have big batteries available, such as the the the 12AH ones. Alternatively, the locomotive could also be made using even a sealed-lead-acid battery and perhaps an old trolling motor.
Whichever way you choose.... You need power, not speed, so some kind of reduction is in order, perhaps some old bike sprockets. The batteries should be fast-swappable, so one can charge as the other is being used. The motor and electronics needs to very much be protected from the elements. Perhaps everything could be mounted underneath. Also, it would likely need 2-wheel drive. It would also need to be reversible, with fine control, and have some kind of safety/tether power cord such as a tread-mill has.
For a convenient control system, the steering handle could be made to control it. If you pull on the handle, it could pull the cart, and viceversa.
Also, the locomotive battery could be used to power its conveyor accessory. : )
The conveyor need only be about 300mm wide, just wide enough for a shovel-full, and perhaps 3 meters long. Tiretreads could make the things that push the dirt, but the belt, perhaps could be made from segments from a grocery-store conveyer.
It sounds like you're wanting to build a depressed flat car; these are actually very common on American railroads and often used for excess weight, width, and height loads.
Schnabel cars are another example and are very impressive to look at.
Not sure if it is easy, but one idea would be to do undercarriage of wheel barrels like the stretcher on ambulances, as you load them on the ambulance the undercarridge collapse and when you pull them off they deploy. That way you have a small wheel barrel on the train wagon itself but can be pulled off right into the action as to speak. Maybe fiddly and so to make, but fun.
I enjoy your videos a lot. In the US the freight cars ( wagons in other countries ) have always used bogie wheels ( We call the train car trucks ) on these the bogie ( truck ) has a hole for a pin that is part of the frame and it is not fix in the hole . So if you pick up a train car with a crane the whole wheel set ( bogie ) stays on the rail. The weight hold it in. This may work for you and allow the frame to mount lower to the ground. If the bogie hole was round on the inside like a metal donut there may be enough up and down play so they would not derail on uneven track.
Yes, that makes sense - thanks
Superb stuff! And those wheels are absolutely fine. Worse case scenario on the tight curves - guide rails, only where you need them. Much easier than tinkering with more complex wheel designs.
A suggestion from a **completely** amateur engineer, offered with hopes that it's actually helpful...
A bin holder setup might be the way to go here, and instead make the double-bogey (DB) solely about transporting bins.
-Fabricate some bins out of plywood (maybe? strong and light, anyway), and sized to only hold an amount of manure that would be reasonable for an adult to manipulate. Not so big as to be unwieldy, though.
-Build the load-carrying portion of the DB to accommodate the dimensions for holding 3-4 bins, and think "slide in, slide out" functionally.
-In parallel, build two low-slung platform wheelbarrows that would accommodate one of the new bins. Important: Try to keep it roughly the same height as the DB load section.
USAGE:
-At the manure pile, use one flatbed wheelbarrow with a bin on it, and load up the bin.
-Walk the wheelbarrow over to the DB, and slide the bin from one to the other. Fill up the DB with bins.
-Transport to the other location.
-Unload to the second wheelbarrow, and transport to needed location to dump it.
-Transport bins back to pile.
-Meanwhile, someone else can be loading up new bins, and you can then swap out easily and quickly.
ALSO...consider making the pivot point on each bogey to be offset from the center of the combined wheel trucks, where each one is shifted toward the load (maybe barely ahead of the load-side wheels). It will counteract having all the load shift toward the inside of the curve as it moves around it.
Best wishes from the USA
Builders buckets 😊
Hi Tim, I suppose however you work it out, the lower the center load carrying section, the less struggle loading and unloading. Since I don’t think you have side clearance issues you can get extra carrying capacity by making the wheelbarrows/bins sit/be perpendicular, for a wide load. Of course, the main disadvantage of a low platform is that you lose carrying ability above the trucks, But I suppose you can make the whole thing longer to compensate, and the added stability allows a wider load to restore some of that capacity as well. I suppose in the future you could even have different style cars sitting on the same trucks for different usage scenarios...
Fine looking horse.
As others have stated the casters are a week point in your system. Full sized railcars are mounted to the trucks by a large pin.
Yes but is the load not spread over a larger flat plate around the pin?
should I give up hope on the steam engine? I don't want to be too pushy. But you are the only person I know that's building his own freaking railroad! SO COOL! anyways, hope all is well!
There was a local 2 km long narrow gauge railway near where i lived up until 1950 when it was torn up. They pulled the wagons behind horses and they did try steam in 1920 although they replaced the locomotive with horses after 2 years due to the loco breaking down.
I would not give up hope. You got to remember that this a a small channel and Tim and Sandra live with a small income to which they try and produce content and make a living. I also think that some of their funds from things like the garlic sale are going to pay for the yearly bills and even to pay for the Hairy Henry barn loan which is mostly paid for by donations to Sandra on the other channel and local help. i wish I could donate. Right now I am not in the place to be able to.
@@kameljoe21 same
Have you thought about laying temp tracks between the rows & shoveling the compost directly out of the car onto the beds?
That would be 30% labor savings
Thanks for the video, Tim. I'm sure you will figure out which boxes to use. Jon
Hi Tim. Another wonderful project. When you make the body bear in mind that the castor wheel frames may not be adequate to stop unwanted side-to-side slewing. Have a look at fifth wheel hitches and plates. I'm sure you could easily fabricate a couple of them on your CNC cutter. They will give you plenty of front-to-back tilt but little side-to side, which is what you need for a bogie car.
Good point!
I also think the fifth wheel type hinges would be shorter as well as stronger. Just have a pipe running vertically through a lazy susan that can separate so the top plate can move up and down. As far as the top, sounds like you need an open hopper design with a side dump like your ballast cart.
A low flat deck with bogies, with a way to put double wheeled wheelbarrow carts on it. Possibly a loading dock/ramp. The less a person has to lift or shovel would be better in this case.
Love this channel
I think you are on to something bro so will see what you come up with. Safe travels.
OUTSTANDING SIR 😇👍👌🍻
Neat!
Handsome bogies.
☮
Maybe flatbeds so that you can put 5 gallon buckets on top then transfer them to a mono rail going between the beds. Makes dumping easier.
I'd go with the low boy option as easy loading and you may be able to double stack it
Hey Tim! I love garlic! ;)
I live watching your railway content!! Keep it up. I’m inspire for the vineyard we’re establishing.
So I like the idea of the castor pivot to give you flexibility however the hatch will be they’re not going to be load bearing. Normally a bogie has a bolster bar that has sprung loaded pads that rub agains a rub plate to give the load carrying capability as well as flex…. You could do this by adding a wheel to the chassis that rides and rolls across the bogie plywood top
Yes, that makes sense too. Thanks
Have you considered a wooden gantry crane? There are CZcams videos for how to do this. The sides of the gantry could run on their own rails. These rails to be just long enough to take the load from the rail wagon to a wheel barrow base, set on the base then hand wheeled into where the material is needed.
I think you'll need some lateral support for the load carrier frame once it starts to bear a significant load, otherwise it could bend the casters as it tips to one side.
Hi Tim,
Some superb stuff you have going on here. It's looking like the shops at Stephenson & Co. with every passing week!
A point about the bogies; there is another, more modular option that I think you may have missed, particularly useful for moving loads of variable length without the difficulty and expense of building a frame to sit over one or two bogies: bolster wagons. It might be worth building a mountable module that turns each into bolsters rather than having them fixed beneath the underframe of a plain bogey vehicle.
From a historical perspective, if you want the most practical design for a more modular system for it, might I suggest looking at the War Department Light Railway rolling stock used in the trenches of WW1? All cheap, standard components, practically modular in design. In terms of what you're after, I would suggest a short well wagon if you intend to use the wagon as what we call a "transporter" wagon. Or if you want a means to move bulk material that's relatively easy to trans- and off-load and simple to construct, my best guess would be a "drop side" open wagon where the sides are latched in with a set of door bolts that allow the side doors to drop down to the sides to allow for the cargo to be manually unloaded.
While the series of small "tipper" style bodies mounted to one undercarriage might seem the obvious solution here, in my unprofessional opinion with how large your wheels and bogie frames are, you would end up with a rather high centre of gravity if you followed the tipper route. They did exist in limited numbers in bogey form, as far as I know, but the added mechanical complication of a) ensuring absolute balance during loading and when underway and b) making sure the tubs themselves stay where they are put in order to unload without excessive strain, might subtract from the benefits of moving the material in such a manner in the first place.
Sorry for the wall of text, but that's my two bits on the matter.
Thanks, Tommy : - )
Fish crates are strong, durable, light. They stack well, empty or full, and even if you have to buy them (naughty word, sorry) they are not expensive.
Damn i love looking at the wids you make!
I think for a simple and cheap option, a good idea is to take short slices of wood, and fix one to each bracket much like you have the single long one connected now. Then you can slap a long piece of plywood or some other sort of frame on top, and build a flat wagon, a long gondola, or a tipper bed directly on top. That way you could even swap out chassis if you need to move different loads like large logs, soil/manure, crates of garlic or tools, or anything else you could need.
For how the big railroads do it, they have the suspension on the axles and then a pointed peg on top of the bogie. The chassis has a circular plate at each end, with a hole in the middle of the plate that the peg fits into.
Specifically for the manure, I think a set of 3 or so tipper boxes would be solid and easy to build. They could easily be mounted to a frame with simple hinges, and handles on the opposite side.
Alternatively, you could build a low-slung box with doors that open on each side.
Bogyman😱🤗😄😂😅😜
Since you need to Barrow at the end of the trip, best practice world be to carry the dung in the barrows mounted transversely as low as possible to lower the center of gravity and make it easier the trundle the barrow up onto and off from the platform using a gutted plank.
(A log that really fed up😜😂)
if your worried about guiding the bogies you could try a spring to pull it back to center of the cart
more wagons, cool !
hi from Australia . if you want cheap wheels just buy or acquire old disk breaks with axils and bearings ... also can be used for bogie turntable and don't forget they have breaks that are easy to make function ,,, i can go on forever , i love to reuse junk . wish i lived closer .
Things must be very different in Australia - our nearest dismantlers seems to be 300 miles away (I've never been) and apparently it's nearly as expensive as new parts.
Gogo Tim ... We had wood bearings on our saw mill .. shaft was 50 mm never gave any trouble .. it was driven by a field marshal tractor so 40 HP great stuff Tim
Random thought:
In the centre of each bogey, mount a block of wood with a vertical hole drilled in it just large enough to take a scaffold pole so that it's held vertical but free to rotate.
Then link the two bogies using a long(ish) scaffold pole, clamped at each end with a swivel clamp.
From that pole, you can then hang swinging buckets. Think the type used with a hoist that can be tipped out.
That way, you can change the wheelbase of your "carriage" simply by moving the scaffold clamp. You could even run tracks either side of the garlic bed and use the points to route the bogies onto different tracks so that the bucket(s) hang over the beds.
Good ideas, Mr Flibble! Thanks.
Agree that a scaffold pole would make a stronger vertical pin ... worried how it would accommodate the other axis of movement though.
If you were hoping to have a wagon of a similar design to 2:33, perhaps you could make each bogie wheelbase smaller which would decrease the length of the whole wagon slightly
thanks for fun video!!
Man❤️
This video is given very interesting view of very different experience of railroad with working of train in practically. So it is a very different creativity 😍
Brilliant Tim. I guess to avoid double handling everything wheel barrows would be the best solution. Not sure if the 'carriage' would be low enough to load from the side up a ramp but it would make handling a lot easier / faster. Best wishes as always 😃😃
Yes, use gravity & always move material downhill.
Probably would be best to have a system much similar to a motel metal tipping wagon thats constantly used on iron foundary railways. The low bearing might be a bit but making the tipping bucket a hopper style shape to make tipping more easier and its a very simplistic idea that can realistically be achieved with success
use 45 gallon drums with lids then you can roll them off to the final destination
Put a spring between both trucks/bogie's and that will help them go around tight corners.
most trains here are like that, generally they are pulled by the part connecting them together ,not by the bogie though.
A low-loader flatbed would be a more versatile wagon. You could then carry multiple wheel barrows or wooden boxes full of compost.
L channel iron bars for frame that slides for longer or shorter and a couple of holes for pins, you can change length easily
Look up horse drawn bobsleds. Both the front sled and the rear sled steer independently.
Find a picture of one of these and it may give you some design ideas.
It is recomended that the bogies evanly spread the weght depending on the size of the car (or carrage for you in the eastern hemisphere)
Ist das ein braves Pferd! Echt berührend! N. W.
It _shouldn't_ matter _too_ much where you pull/push a bogies from. Whether you're pulling them by the front, pushing them from the back, or pull/pushing them from the top.
Because of this the pull/pushed bogie and the free bogie should move together without any issue. That said I am no expert and the rough and practical field railway might have it's own things to say.
Greatly enjoying seeing this fascinating modern cottage industry grow.
Looking at your current set up, the more load that you put on the wagon, the more unstable it will be. Thing is the lateral pivot is high. A well wagon would be best or failing that lower the castor to be mounted from the bottom of the bogie mainframe. You should then be able to do a simple flat wagon then.
You could make a rigid body mount that connects the two boogies and that drops down between them, then put a free-spinning, yet lockable, basin atop the the drop down in the intra-boogie frame in such a way where you have a pipe spanning two supports that pivots the basin while beginning locked during transit (I'd recommend a rope attached to the bottom so you pull the load up, instead of rotating it by hand)
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You need to make something like 3 or 4 cement mixer style of container that can tip and dump the same volume of "stuff" that one wheel barrow can hold.
I have a wheel barrow that works that well and I am the horse, and I go forward!
You're right - wheelbarrows are the best! (But I'll need 100 for this year and a lot more in the future..)
I would make a wagon where the long sides can be lowered. then you can use it to carry any loads you need, can carry containers, the manure it self, wheel barrows, etc. (if that doesnt work or seem realisic then just add doors occasionally down the long side).
спасибо за видео, очень понравилась идея твоих колёс, сделаю летом себе такие же для своей дороги)
Hi,
I want to comment about the wheelbase. Where I am what you call trams, we call streetcars. Streetcars tend to have a shorter distance between the axles, than the full size railroad counterparts. Streetcars need the short wheelbase due to the sometimes very sharp curves. This keeps the wheels' difference in angle to the tangent line of a curve as small as possible. Otherwise the flange tends to want to climb over the outside rail. Full size railroads need a longer wheelbase for stability at high speeds.
As far as car design goes, I suggest that you consider a "side dump" design.
Thanks, Jeff. Very interesting!
Wouldn't be easy, but half round "drum" side dump or belly dump would be an interesting option as an interchangable load bar to go between the bogies. could have several. Could you make a simple lowboy with a single fixed trail axle and pivoting bogie front? then add a motor/battery/solar panel operator assist. attack of the feature creeper.
I love watching you build these wagons and the railway, and even maybe one day a locomotive. But I can't help thinking what you actually need is a mini-digger
Yes please!
@@wayoutwest-workshopstuff6299 make one with weights and pulleys (and man power)
what it sounds like you need is a side dump gondola, a simple good search should show you what I am talking about
Well you could hang buckets of sorts on the beamms (on either side for balance). Or brackets on either side that hold (stacked) crates of a size that makes them managable, i.e. ones you can lift when full. A simple set of stamps could keep the contraption balanced while loading/ unloading.
Something like that?
You can use something like Ikea shopping bags and then build hoisting tool to put them on and take them off. 2 bike front forks joined at the top with a ~3ft beam, so you end up with something like an axle but lifted to the top of the bike forks. To the beam across the top of the forks you attach a ~10ft beam at the middle perpendicular to the "axle" beam. Now you have a big lever on wheels. You can put a hook on one end and an handle at the other. Fill the bag on the ground garb it with the lever on wheels, roll over to the car, and lower it on. As a bonus you will have a long reach to go over the beds and drop bags on the other side with out walking on the beds when unloading.
I was about to correct everything you were talking about and point out mistake after mistake until I noticed your name is Egon. Sorry, I didn't know. I hope you can forgive me.
If you make it a flatbed you can make a station on both ends of the line to drive your wheelbarrols on to it end of at the other end. But maybe a wheelbarrol is to wide for a waggon. If you use boxes of some kind you allways have to carry it twice. Witch is net verry good for your back. Good luck finding a sollution.
From what your using it for I'd say a platform with multiple tipping containers at wheelbarrow height that way you just put the wheelbarrow beside the cart and dump one container into the wheelbarrow then do what you need to come back and repeat till the carts empty
Although to counter balance the weight you may need to have some dead weight slung under the carriage between the wheels so it doesn't fall over
Bicycle disc brake maybe if the bogies snake too much? Can easily just squeeze the handle on the pull stick to stop/slow the snaking and release for points and curves.
Using the similarity of the bogies, it'd make for a good modular system and could easily have one larger carrier slung lower between them to keep the weight low down so it won't be tippy. trying to carry loaded wheelbarrows would be interesting without a way to strap them down in place securely and one larger carrier between the bogies would take advantage of the existing design as much as possible. Tipping might be complicated but some sort of bottom dump that can be directed to one side or the other if that directionality is needed might work well
I clicked this hoping for it to be old and finished then I seen posted 6 hours ago guess I gotta subscribe so I can see the whole thing
Angle iron for the moving central structure frame. Then make it a flatbed wagon so you can do whatever you want with it. Maybe use the angle iron to form a rack where you can install and remove plywood sheets so you can do more with it. And make it low!
Edit: Also that way, you can install modules e.g. ballast or woodchip modules into the rack. So the angle iron makes the frame and the floor is made of removable plywood sheets attached by gravity and held in place by the angle of the angle iron.