the castle "on/off switch" apparently have more than 100% power available to the motor, since there is "more top end speed" than with the hobby wing "on/off switch".
@@xibidit Nah, it's just that the over current protection in the HW units actually works and limits the power output in those scenarios while the Castle will happily keep on pushing past it's limits until it goes up in flames. Brushless ESC's also are a little more complex than an on/off switch...
@@KacKLaPPeN23 not really man, it's mosfets switching power on and off, and if there is over current protection it would go into limp mode. Connect the wrong motor and wrong battery the esc blows, if the unit is faulty it's usually a mosfet that blows and starts a chain reaction. Take a 45A esc and a 60A esc with the same motor and battery, they will have the same top speed but the 45A esc might blow first. Look at RCexplained's channel if you want technical stuff...
@@xibidit I've personally had some higher kv motors (above what the ESC was rated for) reach a lower max. RPM than a lower kv one with HW ESCs. Over current protection is the only sensible cause of this phenomenon I can come up with. If there was an internal RPM limit we'd see the same max RPM but that wasn't the case in my tests.
@@KacKLaPPeN23 higher KV motors have a lower resistance, probably in some kind of limp-mode since you had too low resistance through your windings. OCP usually cuts the power all together, but I can be wrong, there are some advanced on/off switches out there for sure :)
A man of his words right here and very very respectable. If i was your customer, I would be forever your customer. Owning up to your mistakes and being honest goes a loooooong way. You've earned someone's trust forever. We need more people like you in this world.
Awe don’t say that… I’ve seen these go up in flames… but I’m THIS CLOSE to buying a XL2 combo, …. They admitted 5% were defective but those defected ones go up in flames RIGHT AWAY! If you got as much as 5 minutes run time it “could” be something else….🙏
@@AutoBodyEverything could be 5 seconds or 15 minutes. One never knows till "FLAMES ON" That's the great thing with castle creations, they push the limit!!! And the costumer pays the price!
@@AutoBodyEverything I would personally still buy one of these controllers, in fact might be buying two for one of my twin catamarans and converting them to water cooling. I firmly believe there was no user error here, Raz knows his shit and even Castle knows that lol. The esc was defective.
Picked up my first above 1/10th tonight. A Limitless. Your a good influence ;). Been enjoying R/C since late 1980s. Does not make me an expert. But I know there will be trials and setbacks along the way. Let the butt kicking commence LOL!
My Outcast 8s EXB with the exact same system in it, fully loaded weighs 30lbs. I'm definitely not easy on the brakes, and the truck is geared high enough that it's hit 65mph. I think the issue here is a combination of belt resistance and a defective ESC.
Super interesting Raz! That beast can only have the best gear and as you pointed out a separate disc braking unit is a must. Can’t wait to see the next instalment!👍🏻
Has nothing to do with brakes. The FG is a baby compared to MCD. The esc was defective, luckily no one got hurt. There is a guy here in Maryland that hit 149mph with the FG running XLX2 and TP motor. Good content as always man
@@madmatt2769 I have two brushless FG's and both of them use motor braking. I'm running 8s on one and 12s on the other. xlx and an MGM esc powering the cars and neither one have caught on fire yet. Xlx2 was just faulty... thats all there is to it. We put the same 1100kv/xlx2 combo in another FG and its geared up for about 80mph, no issues in that car either.
From my personal experience with motor drivers and controllers I believe something called back emf killed your esc basically when braking the esc cannot handle the high voltage and current flowing in the opposite direction from the motor back to the esc. obviously when braking the motor is working like a generator and due to the weight and inertia of this car it was to much for the esc to handle which by the looks of things has fried the diode in one of the mosfets and caused a shoot through on one of the half bridges giving you a dead short and obviously some flames, as a solution potentially adding a capacitor bank in parallel with the esc after the battery might prevent this from happening again you need a buffer between the batteries and esc especially when the batteries are fully charged make sure you use some pretty high voltage capacitors to handle the high voltage spikes
i considered an xlx2 for one build and passed it up as i didnt want to see £2k+ rig go up in flames then thought they may have fixed the problem so started to consider it again for another build this puts me off.
Ohhh damn 👀. Always sorry to see smoke. Props to you for standing behind your builds, regardless of what actually went wrong. That Big Girl must be smooth as silk belt driven and sensored. 🍻
If you pretin the wire and the pre-fill the cavity in the connector with solder before you saw them together you spend a lot of less time at once putting heat into the connector making it much less likely to deform or melt it. I don't know if that's normally a problem with the QS8 connector but an xt90 would definitely start melting if heat was held on it that long at once.
Also something else to keep in mind, if you're running sensored, if you have to reverse direction of motor it hast to be done within castle link and not by switching motor wires. This was the first thing I actually thought about when I watched this. Also you could consider just not running it sensored at all.
@@DoRC if you run it using the Sensored wires and reverse wires...you confuse the esc and would blow the esc. You have to leave wires plugged up aa by cc and would need to reverse setting in esc if motor wasn't going in the correct direction.
Raz honestly that was a nice happy time when the customer was receiving his car, but so sad that all did not go well as the car caught fire during testing and it really beats my understanding how a drive train design can cause a car to burn the ESC.
It’s either a bad ESC or wire connection between the ESC and the batteries. If anything between the two aren’t super tight beforehand and come loss during bashing sparks or fire can start at that connection point.
Hi Raz 🖐️🥰. Nice Clean build from you as always 💪 If my calculations are not totally off, then there was nothing wrong with your setup and gearing if top end is of about 50mph. 💪 Also I am quite 100% positive that the brake rate/gearing/weight of the car should not have exceed any of the known limitations of the XLX2. Not even close. The binding drivetrain isn't helping but what is it compared to any off road rolling resident? Just bad luck and bad ESC? Don't blame me but I personally wouldn't change anything except freeing up the drivetrain and give it another go. 😘😘😘
Love your videos man, it's nice seeing what is possible with this hobby when you lay down serious pennies. Also what a community, must be awesome having a load of likeminded guys to enjoy the hobby with :)
I've found if you get into a local club you don't need to lay down serious pennies. Make due with what you have too. I dominated my local track until it shut down a couple years ago. Now I converted my buggy int GT8 Class and im ripping into the top three already. I run a converted O'Donnell Z01B SG
Maybe if you send the ESC back to Castle, they can perhaps get into the data logs with their equipment? And give you more details on exactly what happened?
I'm not an expert but I am pretty sure that the brakes on a brushless system isn't the same as as accelerating. The motor isn't trying to fight the forward momentum by tring to reverse and causing loads of heat and amps. It (i think) turns the motor into an alternator and so has massive resistance and actually puts charge back into the batteries. Castle cremations im sure didn't get their name by accident lol.
Castle ADVISES to STOP the use of 2000kv motor or HIGHER due to the different types of wiring DELTA AND WYE. I’m not a pro by any means, this should been updated firmware already but… whoooo knows man. If this car weighs as much as the 1/5 Kraton then it should be geared like we do with Kraton and I’d never put a 2250kv or what not in a Kraton I’d not go higher than 800-1100 kv’s… I LOVED that bmw it’s a BEAUTY thanks for having it on your channel!!!! PLEASE show more of this car or share link of owners videos!! It drives soooo well it’s almost perfect!
As much as i love Raz and his videos.. i gotta agree and say this HW max5 would have been a great choice for this one. as far as I know.. this is not a competition car. it s for a customer. so reliability matters. and we rarely see a HW ESC blows up. customer may not know all the technical details like Raz knows. customer may not need to all the nerdy details and data logging.. but reliability and being able to push anyway you want without having a fear of catching on fire matters.. so HW would have been a great choice. or as we see. XLX2 that is tamed to 70% power would be ok too.
Must have been bad luck on the ESC. I recently converted my FG marder to 4WD and swapped the MAX5 for a XLX2. Running 8S with a SSS 5694-1000KV, so basically the same setup. It's geared a little lower at 16/46 and 20*/48, but slightly larger wheels. Ran 8 packs so far, mostly parkinglot drifting and never seen more than 120A peaks in the logs. It's heavy but when you're not hitting 100+mph it's shouldn't be pulling high enough amps to destroy it during braking.
Hello Raz, Great video! I am running a Kraken KV5TT on 15S with a MGM setup. With MaxAmp batteries and no brakes either. I know this is not a cheep setup but it’s never net me down and although I try to not bash too hard I can’t help but to keep the throttle wide-open as long as the tires will take it 😊. Look forward to your next video.
I think you actually get a lot MORE heat from breaking than accelerating. Accelerating, all the energy goes into the car's movement. Breaking, all that energy goes into the motor or ESC.
That a really sweet car wow. Thanks for sending it yeeeyee. Interesting first chassis in a while that has the motor mounted horizontaly. Holy shit it smoked the tires in a highspeed drift.oh no that was electric smoke?? Nooo
what do you mean with the hobbywing esc giving less top speed? it's the batteries that decide how fast you will go, the motor pulls power, the esc does not push power. if settings are maxed out there is 100% of the batteries power going to the motor, there cant be 120% of the power going to the motor just because you have your favorite on off switch.
The manual says controller and motor are designed for two 2s batteries in series only. That makes it sound like they're talking about a specific motor and controller not necessarily what you put in there. Looking on their website it appears as though this usually comes with a fairly small motor and ESC. It's a decent sized car to be sure but I have a hard time believing that it is too much weight for an XLX2 to handle. Surely it doesn't weigh more than a fully loaded outcast 8s and they run in those all the time. I think there's something else going on. I highly doubt the ESC was being overloaded. I would get with Castle on this and try and get a replacement. These XLX2 ESCs are kind of known for spontaneously combusting.
I had this exact same thing happen to my Kraton 1/5 EXB with that same setup, castle warrantied the esc and I’ve had no issues since. I believe it was one out of the “old batch” and no fault of yours
I have the same care but I bought the gas version and converted it to electric full castle setup I did have the lehner 3080 n mgm 400a pro but was having some issue's
Raz do you have a financial reason not to blame the xlx2 for these fires or do you really think that the chance you take puting one in is worth it because they are that much better than say a max 4? No disrespect just a honest question.
@Raz Shifrin should have taken the time to learn about how FG 4WD works, you must run the Auto on the bench until the belt drive loosens. Too much resistance in combination with massive power draw = Castle Cremation..
Raz, why are you dancing around the concept that you possibly received a BAD XLX2 ESC? I’ve gone through two of them before arriving at one that was reliable.
Everything You Need Is Here..
www.perfectpassrc.com/
All that shade thrown at Hobbywing, but the Castles are the one's blowing up.
the castle "on/off switch" apparently have more than 100% power available to the motor, since there is "more top end speed" than with the hobby wing "on/off switch".
@@xibidit Nah, it's just that the over current protection in the HW units actually works and limits the power output in those scenarios while the Castle will happily keep on pushing past it's limits until it goes up in flames.
Brushless ESC's also are a little more complex than an on/off switch...
@@KacKLaPPeN23 not really man, it's mosfets switching power on and off, and if there is over current protection it would go into limp mode. Connect the wrong motor and wrong battery the esc blows, if the unit is faulty it's usually a mosfet that blows and starts a chain reaction. Take a 45A esc and a 60A esc with the same motor and battery, they will have the same top speed but the 45A esc might blow first. Look at RCexplained's channel if you want technical stuff...
@@xibidit I've personally had some higher kv motors (above what the ESC was rated for) reach a lower max. RPM than a lower kv one with HW ESCs. Over current protection is the only sensible cause of this phenomenon I can come up with. If there was an internal RPM limit we'd see the same max RPM but that wasn't the case in my tests.
@@KacKLaPPeN23 higher KV motors have a lower resistance, probably in some kind of limp-mode since you had too low resistance through your windings. OCP usually cuts the power all together, but I can be wrong, there are some advanced on/off switches out there for sure :)
A man of his words right here and very very respectable. If i was your customer, I would be forever your customer. Owning up to your mistakes and being honest goes a loooooong way. You've earned someone's trust forever.
We need more people like you in this world.
I don't think braking caused this. People run the kraton on 8s with big gears, big tires and the same power. The esc was defective IMO.
My thoughts exactly. My Outcast 8S is pushing 70 mph @ 30lbs with a MMX 8S zero issues.
Awe don’t say that… I’ve seen these go up in flames… but I’m THIS CLOSE to buying a XL2 combo, …. They admitted 5% were defective but those defected ones go up in flames RIGHT AWAY! If you got as much as 5 minutes run time it “could” be something else….🙏
@@AutoBodyEverything buy one. It's worth it!
@@AutoBodyEverything could be 5 seconds or 15 minutes. One never knows till "FLAMES ON"
That's the great thing with castle creations, they push the limit!!! And the costumer pays the price!
@@AutoBodyEverything I would personally still buy one of these controllers, in fact might be buying two for one of my twin catamarans and converting them to water cooling.
I firmly believe there was no user error here, Raz knows his shit and even Castle knows that lol. The esc was defective.
Aint there a temperature cut off on that xlx2? Even with a monster car like that it should have cut off before it self-destruct, even from braking.
Picked up my first above 1/10th tonight. A Limitless. Your a good influence ;). Been enjoying R/C since late 1980s. Does not make me an expert. But I know there will be trials and setbacks along the way. Let the butt kicking commence LOL!
My Outcast 8s EXB with the exact same system in it, fully loaded weighs 30lbs. I'm definitely not easy on the brakes, and the truck is geared high enough that it's hit 65mph. I think the issue here is a combination of belt resistance and a defective ESC.
kevin talbot showed that the XLX 2 started on fire twice in his videos.
Kevin had way too high kv motors.
@@Basherqueen why does the motor even exist if the best esc cant run it? it died without load man...
@@xibidit The XLX2 are known for some units being faulty.
@@Basherqueen I know, but read the above comment.
@@xibidit different escs can run it it's only a 6s motor he was also running it on 8s
Super interesting Raz! That beast can only have the best gear and as you pointed out a separate disc braking unit is a must. Can’t wait to see the next instalment!👍🏻
Very nice car my friend 👍
It’s a pleasure to watch and learn. Thank you!
Has nothing to do with brakes. The FG is a baby compared to MCD. The esc was defective, luckily no one got hurt. There is a guy here in Maryland that hit 149mph with the FG running XLX2 and TP motor. Good content as always man
Maybe, but a gem of a car just deserves disc brakes! ESC is probably faulty though…
@@madmatt2769 I have two brushless FG's and both of them use motor braking. I'm running 8s on one and 12s on the other. xlx and an MGM esc powering the cars and neither one have caught on fire yet. Xlx2 was just faulty... thats all there is to it. We put the same 1100kv/xlx2 combo in another FG and its geared up for about 80mph, no issues in that car either.
@@HighVoltageRC3080 hey, i would love to see the xlx2/1100 in action so i can learn more, is there a video of it?
Thanks!
@@RazShifrin next time I meet up with my buddy I can get some video for you of his car. He's running 23/40 gearing with the 1100kv/xlx2 combo.
@@HighVoltageRC3080 thanks!!
Much appreciated, what is the battery configuration over there?
From my personal experience with motor drivers and controllers I believe something called back emf killed your esc basically when braking the esc cannot handle the high voltage and current flowing in the opposite direction from the motor back to the esc. obviously when braking the motor is working like a generator and due to the weight and inertia of this car it was to much for the esc to handle which by the looks of things has fried the diode in one of the mosfets and caused a shoot through on one of the half bridges giving you a dead short and obviously some flames, as a solution potentially adding a capacitor bank in parallel with the esc after the battery might prevent this from happening again you need a buffer between the batteries and esc especially when the batteries are fully charged make sure you use some pretty high voltage capacitors to handle the high voltage spikes
I'm actually a little scared of these Castle "smoke systems" now:-)
Anyway, thanks a bunch!
Castle Cremations... 😘 to DK(?)
Batch # please
i considered an xlx2 for one build and passed it up as i didnt want to see £2k+ rig go up in flames then thought they may have fixed the problem so started to consider it again for another build this puts me off.
I hope Castle gets in touch with you. Thanks for posting!
That thing looks amazing! I need one of those.
Ohhh damn 👀. Always sorry to see smoke. Props to you for standing behind your builds, regardless of what actually went wrong. That Big Girl must be smooth as silk belt driven and sensored. 🍻
A lovely build that , shame about the ESC woofing up in smoke, but great seeing you take it on the Chin and replace the faulty unit 👌
I watch all your videos. I like to learn from people that know what they're doing. Plus great content does not hurt.
If you pretin the wire and the pre-fill the cavity in the connector with solder before you saw them together you spend a lot of less time at once putting heat into the connector making it much less likely to deform or melt it. I don't know if that's normally a problem with the QS8 connector but an xt90 would definitely start melting if heat was held on it that long at once.
Also something else to keep in mind, if you're running sensored, if you have to reverse direction of motor it hast to be done within castle link and not by switching motor wires. This was the first thing I actually thought about when I watched this. Also you could consider just not running it sensored at all.
The car wouldn't even move if you tried to reverse it by switching motor wires.
@@DoRC if you run it using the Sensored wires and reverse wires...you confuse the esc and would blow the esc. You have to leave wires plugged up aa by cc and would need to reverse setting in esc if motor wasn't going in the correct direction.
@@jaymitchrc right that's what I was saying. If you don't have the wires in the right order on a sensored setup the motor isn't even going to spin.
Don't be hard on yourself, man! I've seen numerous videos of this very ESC catching fire....Castle cremations strikes again....
Honesty goes a long way! Nice Video Raz 🤘
That car is huge man. Very cool!!
Raz honestly that was a nice happy time when the customer was receiving his car, but so sad that all did not go well as the car caught fire during testing and it really beats my understanding how a drive train design can cause a car to burn the ESC.
It’s either a bad ESC or wire connection between the ESC and the batteries. If anything between the two aren’t super tight beforehand and come loss during bashing sparks or fire can start at that connection point.
That car is incredible😱😱😱😱😱
Was it literally smoking the tyres all the time 👌🏻
Love the video, and explanation Raz 👍
Thank you brother!
Such a clean build like all your builds!
Really want to see a pt2 to this and thank you for another great video
100% respect to you for fixing it for free and for sharing the info
Hi Raz 🖐️🥰. Nice Clean build from you as always 💪 If my calculations are not totally off, then there was nothing wrong with your setup and gearing if top end is of about 50mph. 💪 Also I am quite 100% positive that the brake rate/gearing/weight of the car should not have exceed any of the known limitations of the XLX2. Not even close. The binding drivetrain isn't helping but what is it compared to any off road rolling resident?
Just bad luck and bad ESC? Don't blame me but I personally wouldn't change anything except freeing up the drivetrain and give it another go. 😘😘😘
Love your videos man, it's nice seeing what is possible with this hobby when you lay down serious pennies. Also what a community, must be awesome having a load of likeminded guys to enjoy the hobby with :)
Thank you! And yes:)
I've found if you get into a local club you don't need to lay down serious pennies. Make due with what you have too. I dominated my local track until it shut down a couple years ago. Now I converted my buggy int GT8 Class and im ripping into the top three already.
I run a converted O'Donnell Z01B SG
Raz your builds make me feel terrible about mine lmao! Your the best, thanks
Dope build bro I’d love to see that car with an mgm 12s controller. The 800amp one would be dope. Awsome video
Great video man!
Now I want some 1:5 scale GRP tires!
Awesome build ,you need to go by the name 'the dentist 'as your clinical clean shop and elite level techniques ,knowledge and products
Maybe if you send the ESC back to Castle, they can perhaps get into the data logs with their equipment? And give you more details on exactly what happened?
Awesome video raz
thanks for your honesty mate and like the rest of us you live and you learn
That car was very agile for its size … hope to see it going again even better than first time .. got faith in you 👍👍👍
Love your vlog watch it all the time a new video comes out
Thank you!🙏🏻
Been waiting for someone to do this! Awesome mate thankyou love your work , castle are the new novak
First time seeing your channel. You seem like a good dude. 👍
The fact he has *Recruiting Agency* on the roof is absolutely hilarious
Raz that’s a awesome build buddy. Can’t wait too see the full run. 👊🏽💯
Mamba is a fire starter 😨
Castle Creations burning down the hobby since 1997
I'm not an expert but I am pretty sure that the brakes on a brushless system isn't the same as as accelerating. The motor isn't trying to fight the forward momentum by tring to reverse and causing loads of heat and amps.
It (i think) turns the motor into an alternator and so has massive resistance and actually puts charge back into the batteries.
Castle cremations im sure didn't get their name by accident lol.
Welcome to 5th scale bro, love the content
Castle ADVISES to STOP the use of 2000kv motor or HIGHER due to the different types of wiring DELTA AND WYE. I’m not a pro by any means, this should been updated firmware already but… whoooo knows man. If this car weighs as much as the 1/5 Kraton then it should be geared like we do with Kraton and I’d never put a 2250kv or what not in a Kraton I’d not go higher than 800-1100 kv’s… I LOVED that bmw it’s a BEAUTY thanks for having it on your channel!!!! PLEASE show more of this car or share link of owners videos!! It drives soooo well it’s almost perfect!
That is one crazy bad ass car!!
As much as i love Raz and his videos.. i gotta agree and say this HW max5 would have been a great choice for this one. as far as I know.. this is not a competition car. it s for a customer. so reliability matters. and we rarely see a HW ESC blows up. customer may not know all the technical details like Raz knows. customer may not need to all the nerdy details and data logging.. but reliability and being able to push anyway you want without having a fear of catching on fire matters.. so HW would have been a great choice. or as we see. XLX2 that is tamed to 70% power would be ok too.
Kevin! Sick build and vid bro!💯 Gotta add this to the collection
Must have been bad luck on the ESC. I recently converted my FG marder to 4WD and swapped the MAX5 for a XLX2. Running 8S with a SSS 5694-1000KV, so basically the same setup. It's geared a little lower at 16/46 and 20*/48, but slightly larger wheels. Ran 8 packs so far, mostly parkinglot drifting and never seen more than 120A peaks in the logs. It's heavy but when you're not hitting 100+mph it's shouldn't be pulling high enough amps to destroy it during braking.
0:45 I've seen that man on other videos, I believe one of his RCs hit 180mph. I love that man's attitude.
The castle ESC have a known burn issue
I'm a new fan to to your Channel and you did such nice clean work with this car
That was just crazy,an amazing car and build
Hello Raz,
Great video! I am running a Kraken KV5TT on 15S with a MGM setup. With MaxAmp batteries and no brakes either. I know this is not a cheep setup but it’s never net me down and although I try to not bash too hard I can’t help but to keep the throttle wide-open as long as the tires will take it 😊.
Look forward to your next video.
I think you actually get a lot MORE heat from breaking than accelerating. Accelerating, all the energy goes into the car's movement. Breaking, all that energy goes into the motor or ESC.
That a really sweet car wow. Thanks for sending it yeeeyee. Interesting first chassis in a while that has the motor mounted horizontaly. Holy shit it smoked the tires in a highspeed drift.oh no that was electric smoke?? Nooo
Dang! I love the smoke when you guned it! Definitely ran a lot of power through that sucker.
what do you mean with the hobbywing esc giving less top speed? it's the batteries that decide how fast you will go, the motor pulls power, the esc does not push power. if settings are maxed out there is 100% of the batteries power going to the motor, there cant be 120% of the power going to the motor just because you have your favorite on off switch.
Oh man that could have been so much worse. Good thing you guys caught it quickly. Glad you did this vid Raz, it's a learning experience for us all. 🙏🏾
we drive the models on 8s, without any problems!
Nice Video and it will help as I just starting out and knowing is everything, Thanks man!
The manual says controller and motor are designed for two 2s batteries in series only. That makes it sound like they're talking about a specific motor and controller not necessarily what you put in there. Looking on their website it appears as though this usually comes with a fairly small motor and ESC. It's a decent sized car to be sure but I have a hard time believing that it is too much weight for an XLX2 to handle. Surely it doesn't weigh more than a fully loaded outcast 8s and they run in those all the time. I think there's something else going on. I highly doubt the ESC was being overloaded. I would get with Castle on this and try and get a replacement. These XLX2 ESCs are kind of known for spontaneously combusting.
In the summer I buy the fg 911 530
Thanks for your info🇳🇱🇳🇱😎😎👍👍
I had this exact same thing happen to my Kraton 1/5 EXB with that same setup, castle warrantied the esc and I’ve had no issues since. I believe it was one out of the “old batch” and no fault of yours
I going in interested every video that you made . and im learning alot . keepit up 👍🏻
Aww man! That was a beautiful build! I want to try the castle systems, but I’ve been skeptical. Bcuz I seen them burn up. Is that normal?
💪🏽🇬🇧💪🏽 will be ordering one of these 100%
Who makes the chassis? I must have missed it amongst the crazy music.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us Raz 💯👍💯🍻
You talk like a collage history teacher....✌🏼😁
I wonder if this "tire smoke" wasn't actually tire smoke
OMG that's freaking quick for it's weight! And are those tire smokes? Sick!
Maybe it’s time to get paid from Hobbywing instead of Castle?
Dude that car is awesome
Can you run different sizes pinions on it? Or is it fixed like the first line of Arrma granites?
Nope
I have the same care but I bought the gas version and converted it to electric full castle setup I did have the lehner 3080 n mgm 400a pro but was having some issue's
back in the early day's of 1/8th brushless it was said by some in the industry the brakes where causing alot of the failures in ESC's.
God bless sir.ty for all the help.
Wonderdul build .id dream of a felony build from you.much love 2u raz
Ah, I see Castle Cremations living up to its name...
Raz do you have a financial reason not to blame the xlx2 for these fires or do you really think that the chance you take puting one in is worth it because they are that much better than say a max 4? No disrespect just a honest question.
Hey Razz are going to be having more of your perfect pass launch control?
That thing weighs 25 lbs? Wow! Nice build. Bummer about the XLX2. Hopefully it's not one of the bad batches that Clastle had. Try again 😅👍
Always keep a fire extinguisher handy
Awesome
@Raz Shifrin should have taken the time to learn about how FG 4WD works, you must run the Auto on the bench until the belt drive loosens. Too much resistance in combination with massive power draw = Castle Cremation..
Love the content. And info. Thankyou 😊
🤣😂🤣 iv NEVER SEEN THIS HAPPEN LOL!! EXPERIMENTING WITH CUSTOMERS PRODUCTS LOL🤣😂😭
Omg I can’t believe it caught fire wow 🥺🥺
i love fg your work is awesome
Helpful Information. I am on the fence with purchasing this chassis.
Is that an aftermarket motor mount? Looks awesome
Raz, why are you dancing around the concept that you possibly received a BAD XLX2 ESC? I’ve gone through two of them before arriving at one that was reliable.
hes probably sponsored tries to avoid blaming the smoking gun.
hey Raz..... so what happened by reducing to 50% power was it still quick or slower....show a folllow up please