BMW E39 Door Actuator Replacement DIY
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- čas přidán 17. 12. 2018
- Lazy or dead door lock rod? Time to replace your door actuator!
BMW Part Number: 67118352165. All 4 doors use this part.
Door Handle Screw Cover: 51218163829. Just in case yours is missing.
www.fcpeuro.com/
E39Source website: www.e39source.com
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Your videos are super detailed and helpful. All the typical glitches you have already made DIY videos on. I like that you used new BUTYL tar tape. The RTV/ silicone caulk as an adhesive /sealer for the vapor barrier and door insulation panel doesn’t not work long term. water will still get into car and road noise is louder.
Thank you for your comment! Before I knew you could buy butyl tape, I used a standard silicone caulk from a hardware store. Miraculously, it actually held strong for about ten years until I re-did them correctly. I didn't even notice any more road noise. Having said that, butyl tape is absolutely the way to go.
I thought I gave up on fixing little pesky faults on my E39, but here I go again thanks to that video :)
Just a pro tip. Using a pick can chew the plastic screw cap, up on the door finger pull. It’s designed so if you need to remove it, to access the screw, you can push one side of the circular cap and it will push in halfway. Enough for you then to grab the other side and pull out. Hope that useful
Thanks for pointing out the rattle when closing the door, I have that on both front doors and was too lazy to start dissasembling and tracing the culprit but now I already know
I did this today on the driver side.. What a terrible job.. Thanks for your tutorial! Helped me a lot
A few updates after I did this job to both front doors on my 2003 525iTA:
- the driver side is a little harder because there is an extra link to the key lock. When putting the latch assembly back in, point the star shaped link from the lock barrel down and feed it into the green receiver on the outside of the latch.
- there is an extra connector on the driver side, presumably this is the sensor to tell the car the state of the manual key lock.
- I didn't have much trouble with the Bowden cable on either side. turn them inboard to free them. but to fully release them, the red end of the insulation will come free when you drop the latch assembly down. it's harder to get this red end tip into place after reinstalling. I bolted the assembly into place first. then if you bend the cable enough you can get the cable through the gap, then drop the red end piece into place. no need to worry about the battery trick to keep the actuator up.
- after you put the latch back in place with the new actuator, you want to test it to make sure it's working. On the passenger side, I had no problem. On the drivers side, it seem dead until I tried connecting the window switch first. Then it worked fine. On the passenger side, there is a separate control box, which you can leave in place for this job. On the driver side, the control box is integrated into the window switch. So it has to be connected first before the latch can work. then you have to un-connect it to reinstall the door card.
- once getting the new actuator in place and the window switch installed, the latch would make noise but not really move. This is because the lock won't work when the driver door is open. to avoid locking yourself out of the car. so manually latch the mechanism so that it thinks the door is closed, then try the key fob to test the actuator.
- Be sure to get new butyl tape to re-install the foam vapor barrier. in some cars, the vapor barrier is just an extra layer of sound and moisture control. On the E39, the curve of the door means the bottom of the window (when up) is roughly in line with the bottom edge of the vapor barrier. So when water runs down the window, and gets inside the door (which is normal) the only thing keeping it from getting inside is the bond at the bottom of the vapor barrier. when I bought my car, I wondered why it smelled like gym socks. (yes, the A/C causes this problem also) but the real cause was the rear carpets got soaked in the rain. don't worry about the top edge, but be sure to clean off the old sealant and reinstall new butyl tape around the other three edges.
I’m doing this right now...with the key In the door the lock rod won’t go up or down and the door won’t lock 😫
Adam Siska click the latch closed with your finger as if you had closed the door and the striker had closed the latch. Then try the key fob of the key in the lock.
Interesting about the window and the vapour barrier. I'm occassionally getting water in the rear footwell after having a door replaced (someone on the street reversed into it whilst my car was parked!). I wasn't sure if it was some kind of alignment of the seals issue between the replacement and the original, but it could easily be the vapour barrier as well.
YOU SAVED ME! My new actuator was not working, sure enough it was because the window switch wasn’t plugged in. Thank you so much! You saved me hours of troubleshooting,…
Heads up, the yellow door trim clip is longer than the white ones. Three are on the front doors hinge side.
Source:
5 series bentley service manual
Volume 1, page 411-9
Thanks for creating this. Need to tackle this on the drivers side door very soon - which coincidentally also has the window rattle!
THANK You Brian!
I am having problems with a driver side door cable for the door latch. I got the bodin cable to the assembly and it got stuck on something else, I can't reach. You are showing me how to reach that. This is all more than I wanted to mess with but you made it look doable so i will.
Old broad here but with mechanic's genes. I will. try to do my Dad proud. Thank you for this vide. It is most excellently done..
great video. very helpful. my passenger lock works sometimes. when it doesn't I don't hear or feel any clicking noise.gonna replace actuator with the help of your video.Thanks again.
THANK YOU FOR THIS VIDEO. YOU SAVED ME A LOT OF TIME.
Brillant Description. Thank you❤
Thanks for this guide... mine are all failing. For the bottom end of the bowden cable, I used a short 1/4" extension to hold the cam lever up. And it's a 2.5 mm hex to rotate the plastic doodad at the end of the bowden cable rather than tugging down on the cable itself. Mine also didn't have the little door to access the electrical connector.. had to drop and rotate the unit to access the back, T20 screw to loosen the plastic cover to move it enough to remove the connector. 7/2000 build.
just got same prob 3 days ago, this video come right on time ;)
Yooooo finally i found a well scripted video thank you, i just bought this 528i for 1700, and i had to use a bungee cord to keep my door closed 200 miles from vegas😂
On the driver's side, there's one additional thing to watch for: the key lock mechanism. There's a metal bar sticking out that connects to the door lock by sliding into a yellow cross head on the lock. The key bar can be moved to point down before refitting the lock, and then as you push the lock up into place, it should pick up the key lock bar and mate with the yellow cross head in the main door latch mechanism. Guide it in with your other hand to be safe. I mention this because if you take the brute force approach to why it's not going back in, then you could snap the key lock bar.
With the bowden cable from the exterior handle, whilst the lock is still screwed in firmly, I could get both hands in from the bottom of the door and use one to push the mechanism up (the part you used a battery to jam open) and the other hand to twist the cable and pop it out. It's still an absolute pain, but I've done it a few times now and I find it a lot easier than trying to use any tools, or risk damaging the plastic t-bar part.
I had not yet done a driver's actuator at the time I made this video, but this is a great piece of advice for how that works! Since it pivots when oriented the right way, removal or installation is not a real challenge once you know this. Thanks for the comment!
Thank you bro.
Going to try this cause both my front driver and passenger door won’t unlock or lock at all but my back two doors work
Ryan hey there, you may already know this or may not, regardless, by sliding the key into the keyhole of the trunk and rotating the key counter-clockwise, you'll meet Mr. Resistance at 11 o'clock continue with your rotation until you meet Miss. 9 o'clock. Pull out your master key, that position of the lock, the trunk is now disengaged from the entire central control locking system, including the pop-the-trunk-button located left of the steering wheel down by the pop-the-hood-lever and as well as the button on the key fob. Now say you locked the rear folding seats, now the only way to gain access to the trunk is by inserting the key fob (master key) into the truck's lock cylinder or any one of the two rear seats lock cylinder to unlock the seat locks or trunk.
I am aware of this! Thank you for sharing.
Thanks for the advice. I replaced the door lock actuator unit and it was a pretty easy job, even the bowden cable. So that is one door lock actuator replaced. You have much more experience with E39's. Do I wait for the other 3 to go out, or replace them now? Thanks.
I am still waiting on my other 3, remain patient!
Any suggestions on the Vapor barrier seal material? I want to use something strong enough to hold and keep water out but also wont destroy the vapor barrier the next time it needs to come off. Also any suggestions on cleaning the old stuff off would be helpful.
The proper vapor barrier sealing material is butyl tape. It can be purchased through BMW, part # 83190153321. It's very sticky, and working with the old tape is a pain, but it does work well. Cleaning the old tape off just takes time picking it with your finger nails or scraping it with a plastic blade.
thank u very much, english people you do a lot of usuful vids about my lady e39, and very well explained step by step, lot of disturbing issues with this model, so we reamain very busy and amused , haha. oh my gosh usa vid insted uk? im sorry.
If I didn't replace the door lock actuator and just left the door unlocked, would that cause any problems? When I first drive the car for about 15 minutes, I can hear a ticking noise coming from the actuator area. I don't want to lock it in case it gets stuck, just a precaution of pulling door panel off with the door closed when it will not open. Thanks again.
The door needs to be able to be locked, so I would replace that actuator ASAP.
good video
@4:52, what is that pink connector with the two wires coming out of it? I only have one end of the connector on my car, assume I never unplugged it, I had a search around under the mirror plastic trim cover and under the vapour barrier. Ok I saw a thread about it on one of the forums, no one knows what it is, on most cars it is not connected to anything.
This is left unused on many cars, I think it's M5 specific for the side mirror with auto-dimming.
great video! diagnostics said i need to replace the actuator because the door is not latching. however i’ve tried lubricant on the inside of the latch and the locks work properly( lock and unlock when triggered at regular speed) could it be a different part or issue that may be causing this? currently keeping doors closed with bunjee cords.
These are very complicated latches, it could be something within, or something else. I'd have to see it to diagnose the problem.
@@E39Source thanks for the reply. The latch is stuck in the open position it will not latch on and close. But copy that once I get a better view of things I will check back with you.
Hey i have a problem, i changed my drivers side lock mechanism(also actuator came with new lock) but now the key and central lock button inside doent do anything with the driver door, others work. Can this be because i didnt disconnect battery? Even the old lock and actuator wont move it now
Not disconnecting wouldn't cause this. It sounds like there may be an electrical issue at this point, the new actuator should work once plugged in. Have you tried re-seating the connector?
what is the purple/maroon cable that is still connected when you take off the door? can be seen at 4:50
I believe that cable is for the safety mechanism in the window. If you hit the window up button, and is starts going up automatically (without having to press and hold and wait for it to fully shut), it will stop traveling up, and go back down ~2 inches if it hits something like a Childs arm sticking out of the window.
On the E46 chassis, this is commonly breaks along with the GM5 module
After seeing this video I do believe I have discovered why my alarm goes off after I have walked away and I am about 3 feet from the entrance to the grocery store. I noticed my right rear lock was not down thus setting off the alarm (maybe). If I choose not to fix this I will loose weight running to the car( which I always park way out where no one parks so as not to receive door dings.) Amazing. Thanks Ryan.
ok i get why you used the AA Battery, to push the loop up that the boden cable nipple goes into to make it reach more easily, I ended up using my finger to push it up but your method is better.
Would you know if the single vanos actuator is the same for the double vanos models?
Check RealOEM for parts compatibility and application.
Hi. Could you Help me? I need to Know of after that fixing, if the light of AIRBAG stayed on or if after the 5 seg, after turning the engine, if that light turned off. Thanks in advanced
If the airbag light came on after this job, it means you did not disconnect the battery before removing the airbag. You will need to reset the light with diagnostics software. The airbag light will not turn itself off.
@@E39Source Thanks
Haha I would say every E39 driver will know this issue 😂😂 I have it on the right back door 😂
Same just happened today.....800 miles after hitting 100k 😅
@@Legozahar1 rear door use door actuator too?
Same here. 76K miles
@@nikitoapriliano449 EVERY door uses an actuator and they all start going bad at the same time. 😈
My locking pin does not go up or down after having window regulator replaced. Could that have anything to do with it? Something that was disconnected? The locking pin actuator connection is deep in the door away from everything. I do not hear any motor movement on that door when trying to lock or unlock. I don't know if I should have the mechanic pull the panel off to look inside. Coincidence? 1998 540i, 23 years old. Is it worth replacing the actuator. The door handle still works from the inside and outside. Front right passenger. I can lock the door by pushing the pin down with my finger, old school. Unlock, by pulling handle twice. Thanks. Great videos.
It could have gotten disconnected, or the motor could have completely failed. I would want the actuator motor replaced, and the wiring inspected.
@@E39Source Thanks. When you say motor, do you mean the actuator. I am having a BMW mechanic do it at the BMW dealer for $250 plus parts (FCP). I'm mechanical and do most of my work but I do not want to break anything. The BMW mechanic suggested replacing the door lock assembly as well but that part is over $700.00 by itself. Going to just try and replace the actuator. Again, thanks for all the great videos.
@@MRXCHRISS I do mean the actuator, yes. I would definitely not recommend replacing the whole thing due to cost, I have yet to see one fail. I can send you a working used one if you DO need one for a fraction of that price.
@@MRXCHRISS I’m not sure where you’re located, but I’m in NZ and picked up the whole actuator and lock mechanism 2nd hand for $100 + gst. Worth giving wreckers a call if you do have to replace the entire latch/lock.
I had the same problem with the driver's door, solved but the internal lock button does not lower completely - it is not hidden. What can be the reason?
What is the internal lock button?
E39Source, LLC you named it “lock pen”
@@fernandogrubits5207 "Lock pin" or "lock rod", I see. You replaced the actuator and it's still not working? Is it jamming up somewhere or did you get a defective new part?
My problem is with the outside handle of the pilot's door. I have to lift it too much to open the door, because that's because??? Thanks for the help!
That sounds like a different, mechanical issue. I have not yet taken apart or repaired/replaced anything with the exterior door handles.
I have this issue on another M5 and I think after working on a car with a normal lift feel I think that the verticle wire that T junctions down into the spring loaded barrel that has a red collar maybe out of the slot ? if it was down too low then you have to make more lift on outside door handle before the tension begins to release door to open. Has the actuator/door locking mechanism been taken out before to potentially cause this? When I get to this 2 car car I'll take a look and see if thats it...feels like it is?
Hello!! My problem with the pilot door outer handle was that it was broken. And they had put a sheet of steel with rivets to attach it. That's why I had to lift the handle over the bill to open the door. A few months ago I bought a new one. And change it.
Helpful. But yet to try. Looks complicated...
I have it on both back doors. It's kit the actuator, but the control unit in the dashboard. Sadly no longer available and needing to be ore programmed
These would be controlled by the GMIII module behind the glovebox in the dashboard. You can buy used ones from various sources (including me), but yes they will need to be programmed.
@@E39Source Thanks for that. It seems there could be a major safety problem here. If you have 2 kids in the back and the control unit fails. The car is involved in a crash and you're cannot open the doors at all. Could cause BMW a lot of greif.
@@howardwalker3593 It is definitely a major safety issue, and I too am annoyed with BMW for using these actuators that can fail... BUT... it's 20 years after the fact, the car is LONG out of warranty, and a repair is now the purely the responsibility of the vehicle owner.
The driver side of my bmw e39 won't get open with the key on distance. Can't use my mirror buttons. Only the driver side works. Could this be this connector!?
It sounds to me like the wiring in the door may be compromised, or everything is unplugged. You're going to have dig in and see what's wrong with it!
@@E39Source i've switched the whole wires today. Will change the actuator tomorrow
@@vincehousekeeper6931 I found out the my door lock wasn't working (but tested actuator and it was fine) and after much hunting around and looking at wiring diagrams it was a loose connection on the harness in the window module (I was working on drivers door side). The door lock has a junction there. I reclicked it in and then the door actuator started working again. I think this is a first thing to do to make sure it could be a 10min fix instead of many hours that I put into it.
Didn't throw an airbag code (or warning light) with position 1 and no airbag connected?
Nope
Hello How can I do it if the driver's door does not open with the control or with the key
Press the central locking button several times, and hope that the actuator works just once so you can get the door open. If not, you're going to have to remove the door panel with the door shut. Good luck!
@@E39Source Thank you very much for helping me and sharing your knowledge
dear I did not see in the video how to remove the actuator and put the good one. there is something that there to press to get the bad
Gently pry the black plastic trim to the side and pull the actuator off of the latch mechanism.
I replaced my door barrel lock and removed both the lock and the latch from the facelift E39 and installed everything properly, I didn't use the trick with the battery for the plastic white torx plug that comes out of the barrel lock, I had just about enough reach, I assume then as long as it's properly tucked under and attached to the latch then it doesn't matter whether i used the battery or not to push it up to make it easier? You don't really explain why you do that in the video. Regarding the test at the end, pushing down the door sensor and pushing the latch lock shut with your fingers, I tried doing that and the central locking on the driver door seems to try to work but the button on the door from the latch bobs down briefly and goes back up. I can't turn the key to the lock position either, although the key will unlock the car and turn fully towards the outer edge of the door. The latch was ok before I replaced the barrel lock. It only got knocked about a little inside the door, all the cables are ok I think. You can see the area through the door where the bottom of the rod tries to do gown when you lock with the key and it seems stuck down there. Is the latch likely now broken? Or is there some easy way to fix this? Thanks for your help! I assume it's nothing to do with the actuator as its a mechanical problem when the battery is disconnected or connected. I figured out how to connect the bottom connector to the latch, my connector kept being pushed back in when you tried to push the plug into it, so you had to pull out the connector with pliers then hold it there with a hook whilst you pushing in the connector. Thanks.
This will need to come apart again to see whats wrong. The latch should certainly still be usable. Battery trick should not be required. I haven't had to do one of these for a while, so I'm not sure I'll be useful here remotely. Any chance you're near San Diego? My shop can sort this out for you.
@@E39Source yeah I need to take the latch out and connect it up and see if the rod goes up and down or not, I should have done that before. It's all connected up properly so I can't see why it's not working. I tested the locking button a dozen times trying that trick with the door sensor and one time the rod went down but every other time it didn't. I don't suppose you can try to lube up the latch somehow? I spoke to a few indie garages and they said no, it's a sealed unit, if its not working it needs a new one and to try testing it outside the door. It was working before I removed it originally a month ago to fit the new lock barrel, I guess if it is definitely broken then the trauma of being removed and bumped about a bit must have killed it. I can lock the latch with my fingers it just won't work via the central locking or rod. One thing I didn't mention is that when the barrel lock broke, I had the keys in the ignition, was running the engine, with car locked to run an air con refresh spray and the lock broke when I tried to get in with the spare key, so I had a recovery guy come out to use the air bag trick to get the door open a fraction and it's possible that did the latch some damage although I never noticed an issue with the latch until I removed it a month or so later. Thanks for your input, unfortunately I am some way away from San Diego!!
@@fabiandee8178 In order for this to work, the electronics in the door have to be connected. On the M5, the master window switch panel and passenger's door module need to be connected. Just something to check.
@@E39Source I hadn't had the master control panel connected whilst I did the first two installs but I subsequently connected it and have retested it and it is no different, the rod won't go down. I remember when I was first starting the job, I removed the door trim first and the MCP and didn't do anything else for a few weeks and the central locking stopped working on that door and I had to lock it by pushing down the rod. I assume if the lock isn't working now with the MCP connected up then it's a mechanical issue with the latch? Or is there some procedure you have to follow with the syncing of the lock with the MCP connected during the install? First time I did the install with the new barrel lock I had the master panel removed and couldn't get the bottom connector on the latch back on (figured it out on the 2nd reinstall). Cheers. BTW I never actually removed the actuator from the latch as it was working more or less, is there any point removing and reseating the actuator to try to 'resync' it with the other doors? I read someone did that when they changed the latch (and took off the actuator). I will order a new actuator to be on the safe side, it didn't work a couple of times 8 months ago but otherwise has been ok, likely will fail not too distant future.
@@E39Source I sprayed some lithium grease into the spring area on the latch as well as the latch locking part in the side of the door (which was working ok) and there is some improvement, you still can't turn the key but when you activate the central locking, the button/rod goes down fully but pops back up, but you can still push it down fully again but same thing. So you still can't lock the door. I may try lubing the latch up properly when I next remove it to see if it helps but indies told me they are a sealed unit and you can take them apart but reassembling could be problematic.
my handle is torx not philips...i couldn't figure out how to unplug the airbag on both sides, shame you didn't film that part.
The later cars got torx screws instead of Phillips for the door handles. I should have filmed the airbag connection, my apologies.
BMW E39 door lock actuator
Pins. Movement
2
1
3
4
-1 +4 away from pins
Unlock
I have it too :D
It is not necessary to remove the key cylinder.
same problem happen to me right me, sometimes the car is kept opened, otrer times my wife argue me for not to open her, hahahaha, ill fix it :)
Driver "locks" car with key fob and walks away, but the feeble passenger side actuator doesn't actually lock. Passenger approaches door the next day, sees the lock is up, opens passenger door ALARM ALARM ALARM ALARM. Because the car thinks all doors were locked.
Replace that lock actuator ASAP