Guillows Focke Wulf 190 Part 2 'Tissue and Assembly'
Vložit
- čas přidán 28. 09. 2020
- Here's Part 2 of my Guillows Focke Wulf 190 build covering with tissue and final assembly. The next video is the Maiden Flight so be sure to subscribe to watch the fun. Click these timestamps to jump to different parts of the video. 0:38 Fuselage Covering, 4:02 Tailplane Covering, 5:08 Fuselage Continued, 8:50 Tailplane Continued, 9:12 Fuselage Continued, 10:45 Wing Covering, 13:40 Final Assembly, 16:00 Camoflage Tissue, 17:34 Decals, 18:30 Summing Up.
Guillows Focke Wulf 190 Build Part 1 'The Balsa Bits' • Guillows Focke Wulf 19...
🔴 If you enjoy this video feel free to subscribe for more Fun videos inspiring, building and flying Model Aircraft by clicking this link: / @cliffharveyrcplanes
🔴 Click here for my latest video: / @cliffharveyrcplanes - Věda a technologie
You make this look so easy.
In 1970, I built my first balsa/paper airplane, it was a line control flying plane. After several builds with paper and dope, I switched to a Monokote (Heat shrinking product), and never went back to paper. I ended up building over 50 planes in my time.
Fast forward to 2002, I built my last RC plane. I haven't touched another balsa plane since.
2023 I built my very first Guillow's plane, it is a Hawker Hurricane. I did the paper and glue with water/alcohol mixture. It was a bit tricky as I tore some of the paper (I must have pulled too hard when tightening it). After many hours and a few months later, I finally finished it. It looks okay, not great, but okay. I know that my next one will go faster and look better.
This video is going to help me tremendously.
By the way, I went crazy and bought 12 Guillow's kits in the beginning of 2023, so I will be busy between building balsa kits and my plastic kits.
12 kits will keep you busy, you'll be teaching me a trick or two by the time you're done! I have a Hurricane kit to put together some time as well 👍
Not the best tissue covering job I've seen, but for the overall time taken, really good. I mean, covering a fuselage with just two pieces of tissue with so little wrinkling? Impressive! Seriously!! I don't think I could do better.
I like how you inserted a two dimensional pilot. Nice detail, and great way to save weight.
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it! Well summed up 👍
Nice build!
I have that kit and haven’t yet got around to building it.
I have not seen that particular method of applying the tissue before, but it is fairly straightforward and is less toxic than using dope.
I look forward to seeing how it flies in the next video!
Happy flying!
Thank you for posting these videos!
Please have an excellent and awesome day!
☀️✨✈️
Hi Mike, thanks you too, loads of ways to finish these little birds next video linked at the end, cheers 👍
Very pretty.👍
Thanks Robert, I can't wait to see her with the sun shining through, cheers 👍
Cliff, such a beautiful build. I will soon be purchasing a Guillows model. Thanks for the inspiration and the videos!
Hi Floyd, you're welcome, any questions just ask 🙂👍
Great videos always Cliff....really appreciate your builds, suggestions, and inspiration!!! You are bringing me back home to balsa flies better :-). Cheers, KT
Hi KT, great to hear, cheers. Pssst ... we all know balsa flies better but other materials can be useful sometimes 😁👍
I used to use old ambroid cement for my tissue covering way back in the day
I've heard the name Mike but never actually seen any 👍
Thanks Cliff, very informative!
No problem Robert, if you need any more help just ask.
Always something new to watch and learn from Cliff, nice one. 👍
Cheers Gary, thanks for your comment 👍
Thanks Cliff, looks a lovely job 😀
Thanks Mark 🙂
Them sockets do come in handy i use them too
I find I'm using them more and more now Andre 👍
I always enjoy your videos and I learn something along the way too. Good luck on getting your 20.
Thanks 'Me', it's a bit of a long one but we never stop learning, maiden video to follow shortly 🙂
I always enjoy your videos Cliff, thank you for sharing!
Thanks for saying so Pat, what are you building? 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes I just laid the plans down for the Old School Model Works, Robinhood 25. Will be electric, probably an E-Flite 25. This will be the first kit I have built in about 15 years and looking forward to it. I have 2 Guillows planes to convert and will do those after I am done with the Robinhood. Thank you for replying and reaching out!
Looking good Cliff!
Thank you Bob 🙂
Love the videos, just started a beginner build with my 7 yr old son. Keep up the great videos
That's great Jarod, if you get stuck he'll sort you out 😁
Beautiful model.
Thank you James she did come out better than I had imagined 🙂
Perfect job. I would aply the brown camouflage using some kind of hobby paint like Humbrol or something, with a sponge to get a soft edge, but you way is flawless.
Hi Zefkosta, thank you, the tissue makes for a quick, light and fast finish, paint can add a lot of weight if you use too much 👍
I jusst bought this kit. Cant wait to build it
It's a lovely little build Marty but do increase the dihedral a little, go for 1 1/4" under each tip and keep the tail as light as you can, even with my lightening I still had nose weight. If she's going to fly on rubber you may want to consider moving the rear peg forward one bay, it'll help a lot with the cg 👍
Love your work Cliff she looks a beute i have always put tissue on wet as well ,it just seems to conform and make for a much better surface
I must give the glue sticks a go ,I have always doped down in the past, Look forward to seeing her terrorise the skys
Cheers Mike, wet tissue is a new departure for me but it went well, I think some tissues are more delicate than others though but I guess I was lucky. When you read the Guillow's tissue covering instructions for this model they suggest 17 pieces each side!! I guess that's what the number 17 means on the side 😁 I think once you try a glue stick you won't bother with dope again, see the answer to Irwin's question above for more information.
Great job with the tissue covering and a good match for colour!! Looks great shame is going to be shot down by the Spitfire!!
Thanks Ian, the two colours do blend together nicely don't they. Spoiler alert: It has had a fight with a hedge but that's still to come 😁
Doh!! A hedge, not a very good test glide then Lol👍
@Ian Just the opposite, I was still trying to trim the model for turns but had yet to sort it, I'll pop a video up later today 🙂
Hi ! Great job ! What do you use to glue the tissu ? And is it water you spay on the tissu ? Sorry for my bad English.
Remy
Hi Remy, use a glue stick from a stationary shop, use it sparingly. You can spray mist with water no problem, cheers 👍
just bought fw190 kit but aiming to skin it in wood veneer (i do lot of marquetry) rather than paper/dope..
It should look great Diquad, I assume it's a static model?
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes currently although i have a mate that runs a nice big "model" shop (trains planes etc) so possibly see if he can advise me on making prop n flaps work as display.. thinking if i offer him the end result for his shop ... :-) (yes i am a devious git but have a nice smile innit lol)
Beautiful work. I like those rudder/stabilizer jigs. Are they from a plan? Never saw them before.
No Karhunt, just something I knocked up that seemed to solve the problem nicely 👍
Dear Cliff, is this an ordinary tissue paper, or it is from Easy Built models (their super-duper tissue that they claim to be equal to Esaki)? Wonderful video! Thanks.
Hi Windsurfer, just ordinary tissue paper.
Very good
👍🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷🇧🇷
Hi Altamiro, thank you 🙂
Don't forget to subscribe for regular 'Cliff Harvey RC Planes' videos using this link: czcams.com/channels/jnAks7p9kAw7idDD9XtqZw.html
Awesome papering,THX
Thank you! Cheers!
Cliff,love the construction vids. Try easy built magna boards and magnets...made me a better builder Use alcohol and water to spritz the tissue,the alcohol (read isopropyl) dries quick and allows the tissue to be repositioned as needed. Dave at easy built has a tutorial on this.nice job!
I use uhu glue sticks, even on my r/c models.
Thanks Ron, I've considered magnets before but looking at the 'easy built' boards' I see what you mean. Thanks for your other tips 👍
Hey Cliff, big fan of your videos! I'm fairly new to model building and I had a question. How long have you been using normal water to shrink the tissue paper? Have you ever used dope of any kind, or maybe a water-dope mix? I've always used water to shrink the tissue, and it's worked well, so should I stick with normal water on every balsa model?
Thank you!
I use to go straight in with thinned dope but on these small models you're immediately adding weight. Sometimes just water can shrink too much so some modellers prefer to mix water with alcohol, the water does the shrinking and the alcohol evaporates. You can't thin cellulose dope with water by the way but you can, and should, thin 'Eze dope' with water. I plan ti try Eze dope on my next model it looks very good. Thanks for commenting 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes ok thanks for clearing that up for me!
When I covered models like that with lightweight Esaki Japanese tissue I would first dope the frame edges with one coat 50/50 dope, let dry and flour paper (very fine Woodworker's sand paper) the raised up "fuzz" on the wood. Find grain direction of tissue just as you did then cut a piece 1/2" to 3/4" bigger all round. Then dope the frame edges again with 50/50 dope and lay dry tissue over the structure and gently pull tight. To mould tissue around edges lick a finger and mould now locally damp tissue around the corner. Add dope locally with brush if it lifts off and mould again.
To cut excessive tissue around edges I would first crack a double edged razor blade in half and use that. MUCH sharper than a scalpel blade. If I wanted a pointed end blade whilst covering i would twist one half of the razor to breaking point to get one pointed end. To get a neat edge join along the spine of the fuselage, I would actually cut the dry tissue to fit exactly by trial and error on a cut mat such that the overlap stopped before the open tissue area. Dope around the edges as before using the brush edgewise and any dope that flows away from the edge into the open tissue area wipe quickly away. Very carefully lay tissue in place, moulding with licked finger as required and adding dope with brush edge as required. Check for lifting edges and re dope and lick finger and rub as required. If all secure, light water spray as you do then let dry. For a light structure such as your FW 190 dope three coats of 33% dope, 67% thinner. When in the UK Humbrol dope shrinks up well, but for hotter climates such as Australia, needs a less powerful shrinking dope.
For wings and tail planes I'd cover the bottom first. If under cambered wing section then dope all lower rib edges and lower spar surfaces. Run half razor blade around edges and mould edges to wood with licked finger. Cut top piece oversize at LE and TE but at dihedral break on polyhedral wings cut curves on cut matt by trial and error to get an exact match. Dope around edges and top of dihedral break ribs only, lay on dry tissue and rub down all over, but not around LE and TE yet. When dope is dry enough fold around LE and make cuts at each end to give 1/16" overlap actually cutting very lightly on the wing. Then lay wing on cut mat and with steel rule on the short cut marks, cut tissue. If elliptical wing make a series of very light cuts through folded around tissue on the LE wood itself then join these cut marks up either by free hand or using a Draughtsman's "flexi curve", being careful not to nick it with the blade. Dope LE just where you want overlap to stick and mould around LE. Lick finger and remould and dope as required. Same process for the TE. Then water spray and let dry. Finally dope wings with three coats of 50/50 if a 1/2A power model and tail plane with three coats 33/67. If an Open Rubber model three coats of 33/67 on wing and two 33/67 on tail plane and fin. Three 50/50 on fuselage if structure will take it.
Some great ideas in there Aeroearth, I used to apply tissue with dope but I find either glue stick or watered-down pva more agreeable these days. I agree an ultra sharp blade is of paramount importance, thanks for your thorough comment 👍🙂
Hi Cliff - you skipped right over painting the cowling. It looks awesome, but how did you do it? (or which one of your previous videos explains the trick)? I'm struggling with all the plastic on the Sopwith Camel, there is a lot of it and I want it to look sharp.
Sorry about that Tim, it's actually not paint but simply strips of black tissue stuck directly to the white plastic, then the whole lot given a couple of coats of matt lacquer. The plastic pieces need to be approached and fitted with patience, making small adjustments to both the balsa and plastic as you go. Very little of it will be perfect but the finished result will be pleasing enough. 🙂👍
Cliff, would you be able to elaborate if the fillets have any backing with ordinary 20lb paper, heavy paper etc, AND the kind of glue you used? I would also appreciate it if you tell us the glue you used to attach the canopy to the fuse please.
Hi Windsurfer, the fillets were just ordinary 80g (30lb) photocopy paper, tissue covered using watered down white glue (any type really but I used Aliphatic), when dry I cut it to the pattern and offered up, trimming it slightly if needed, then glued in place with white glue (and a little ca if more convenient). The canopy glue I use is 'Formula 560' by Pacer, cheers.
5/5
Thanks Devin 👍
Nice video Cliff, really enjoy watching them. I have a question about painting these models. I've just finished building and covering my hurricane with white tissue and shrunk the tissue with water. I was wondering can I airbrush it with airbrush acrylic paint?
Hi Kelly, thanks for watching and commenting 👍 I would give the shrunk tissue a light coat of either thinned down dope or a spray of matt lacquer from a can. This will help to seal the pores of the tissue. But my biggest piece of advice is to make a little square of balsa and tissue it as you've done the model, then finish it as you want, if it works then dobit to the model, if not try a different approach. Is the model for static display or flight. If the former then the number of coats won't matter but the latter be frugal as paint can add a lot of weight. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info. Model is going to be for display so not to worried about weight. Is lacquer basically the same as clear coat?
@@kellyg8717 Yes, but make sure to do a little test area or make a test panel 👍
How did you manage to attached the cowl and keep it steady? I am building the same kit. I watched your trim videos, and it looks like you have some sort of dowel system to line the cowl up with the fuselage the same way each time. Thanks for the great content!
Hi Clayton, I made a balsa disc with a balsa box attached which slides over a balsa plug which is fixed to the back of the inside of the cowl. The disc could be glued to the cowl I guess to make things less complicated. But you are correct, I used three locating toothpick dowels (although two would do) to locate the cowl in the same position everytime. This is important because when I've finished trimming for flight I fix the down and side thrust washer in place on the cowl under the thrust button. I also used one 4mm magnet to help secure the cowl when the tension is off of the rubber motor. Hope this is useful?
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Thanks so much Cliff! I appreciate all the info! Still working on mine
Have you considered mixing some green or grey ink in with the dope so you have a camoflage look without the weight of a layer of paint? Could that work or would it affect the hardness ? I guess a few tests could work it out?
Edit ahh just seen you havent doped it lol mix ink in with water ?? Haha
That's right it's very light but very effective! 👍
I always thought I was supposed to attach the tissue then spray it to shrink it.
Great question, damp tissue can be easier to get around the curves of a fuselage but it is very delicate 👍
Nice job, as usual. I could not get the name of the glue or type of glue when you did the fuselage. 2nd query: How wet was the overlying tissue when you tore off the meeting paper at the top and bottom of the fuselage?
Hi Irwin, it's only a glue stick, 'Pritt' in the UK, the one to get is the children's version, it's blue (so you can see where the glue is) but dries clear ... ideal for our uses, I have been told that some of water soluble what isn't so good of course, you would have to experiment but they're cheap to buy. 2nd answer: Once the glue has cured, not long to wait actually, the tissue was quite wet and it just tares along the glue line, the torn edge blends well with the tissue below really well I find. 👍
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes Then the direction of the paper must be applied length-wise along the fuse for easy tear?
@Irwin Weisbrot Yes that's right Irwin. 👍
nice one. what if using a hair dryer? will it not quick the process?
Sorry for slow response Yasser, no not really, if you try and speed the process it doesn't tighten out as well as if it's air dried, ask me how I know lol
@@CliffHarveyRCPlanes
I see. I built West wings kit model and uses deluxe materials easy dope on it went well. But unfortunately mine didn't fly very well maybe because of the incidence angle wasn't right. The covering was fine 😃
@@yassermasood3423 Yes, may be. I've not used Easy Dope how do you find it?
Where did the rudder alignment tool come from?
Hi Jon, they're just made from scrap balsa, nothing technical 👍🙂
Hello sir. What glue is that on the tube for cover?
Hello Rohan, it's a glue stick, Pritt Stick in the UK, the blue one is better because you can see where you've put it 👍
What happened to the rubber powered Spitfire?
Hi Morco, did you see the last attempt video: czcams.com/video/yaVzdIr3UnU/video.html, I since tried her tethered in the back garden but I have plans to fit rc as well so she's not finished yet, thanks for asking though. 👍