Big Problems with My Hot Wheels Track | Build EP1
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- čas přidán 21. 08. 2024
- The first episode in our behind the scenes Hot Wheels / diecast racing track build journal. We take a look at the big problems with the current diecast racing track and have a sneak peak at the new studio space.
We explore what I used to build the current Hot Wheels track an diorama as well as some of the mistakes I made!
If you would like to follow along with our new Hot Wheels / diecast racing track build; make sure you subscribe!
#diecast #diecastracing #hotwheels #diorama
Thanks for giving us a tour of your setups. As someone who plans to build a "permanent" track eventually and host races in the future, videos like this help tremendously. I will be working in a limited space, so it's great to get ideas on which materials work better for different parts of a track. Looking forward to seeing your new track, but also excited to see the upcoming modified race on your Corkscrew Laguna track. My cars should be making their way to you soon. ✌
Glad it was useful! Very much looking forward to hosting
I will be there soon. But I am an epic procrastinator. 🤩😎🍺🍺🍺
😆😆 still a few to arrive from the US yet, most are posting to the UK for the first time. I'll be looking out for the helicopter drops just before the starting lights go green! Will be a little more notice on the next one 🙂
Love the update! If you want to avoid the plastic bases that can sometimes show on camera. I know a few guys use tiny bits of blue tack or similar on the bottoms of the people's feet to help them stand better. Looking forward to seeing what your new space becomes!
Thanks for watching! Yeah it's a trade off for sure, I've noticed them in videos too but I am at the end of my tether trying to balance them! I've had success with blue tack on some surfaces (like the road around the buildings), but not so much with the grass or corkboard. Will do some experimenting. Anyway, see you at Corkscrew Laguna soon!
@@XRDiecastRacing Car shipped out last week. We'll see how long it takes to cross the pond.
Excellent - interesting and informative video.
Looking forward to seeing the new, bigger track come together.
Thanks Paul!
Spankin'!
That was good behind the scenes show. So much effort put into your track and plans for a future build. You make a great show and you could see the production coming along nicely as you grew.. Fake water.. A mirror with crinkled cling-wrap over the glass can work well. Solid water is less messy and hazardous than liquids. Looking forward to your new track and build.. Cheers 🏁
Commenting while the idea is in my head, every time you open a mainline car, you're left with some great raw material for people stands. Use a small hobby knife (we call them Xacto knives) and cut square sections out of the clear plastic blisters. Should work a treat for you, hope that saves you buying stands for your figures 🤞
Hadn't thought of that! Bought a fair few mainlines at a 'toy' fair on the weekend (not sure what they were referring to with toy, I only saw diecast cars for adults there). Thanks, I'll share a picture of my first attempt. Need to source something smaller for applying super glue first. Always manage to get it on my hands...
@@XRDiecastRacing if you're using a gel CA super glue, toothpicks make for good applicators. Precise and disposable, keeps the CA off the fingertips
Great tip!
Cool track! Think you might be over worrying about your diorama there, it looks great. Can't really give you any advice there, mine is a giant hodge podge of mess. 😄 But I might be able to offer a couple of track tips. For one, unless I'm missing something (like the subsurface being styrofoam), you should be able to screw your corners down. Just go ahead and drill some holes in those flat parts at the bottom. Be careful, obviously, but I never had any crack on me. Then you can use sheet metal roofing screws, those ones with the little bit of rubber at the top, to screw them down. Or rubber plumbing washers would probably work, too.
Then as for that kind of pinched bit at the end of that steep straight before your second turn, try sticking a straight piece of wood or metal under the connection to smooth out the angle. Start small (crap, gotta think in non-freedom units, don't I) like 10-12cm, then longer pieces if that isn't sufficient. Should help smooth out the abruptness of that transition. Yeah, it'll create a small gap between the track, and the original surface, but you can fill it in with more diorama.
Last bit for when you start building your next one, especially if you plan on eventually doing mail-ins, I'd strongly recommend acquiring some of the heavier, all metal cars, and hit them with some graphite for testing purposes (or if someone is willing to donate some tester mods, even better). Point being that if you only test with stock mainlines throughout the build, you'll likely end up with a track that is "too fast" for those quicker cars, and ironically ends up producing more crashes and DNFs, when the original goal was likely trying to build something that "everyone will make it down" (ask me how I know 😅). While the downside is that, yes, you will increase the number of slower cars that can no longer complete the track, the upside that you can usually create a longer, better performing track since your angles won't have to be as steep, which is especially valuable when vertical space is the more limited commodity.
Hope some of that helps, and if not, please just ignore me. Looking forward to more races!
Thanks for the detailed suggestions and feedback! I'm a bit OCD with details, so I definitely do over worry about things nobody had probably ever noticed. Hadn't thought of using a straight piece of wood under the connection.
I'm about to start my first mail in tournament. I have quite a few experienced builders (Numbskull, Essex Boys Racing, Puff's Racing, Dog Squab etc etc), all of which are leaving their cars with me after the tournament, so I can use those to test on the next track. Valuable advice! Luckily the ones I have received so far seem to run Ok on the current track but we will see! I was taken aback by the weight when I received the first one, all of them are about double the main lines I have been racing. Hoping to use much less steep slopes on the new track so I can build something bigger (I've got a bigger space, but not really much more height). Shouldn't be such a problem with the heavier ones, and on the Spool Heads track
Should have thought of drilling the holes in the corners. Think the Spool Head and Slanman customes ones have pre-drilled holes.
All applause for the great comment & advice Sam 👏👏 Hosts who start out racing stock often are surprised by the behaviour of modified cars. Also, locking the track down in a stable fashion gets to be more crucial for performance in modified events, I've seen tracks threaten to buckle in turns as upwards of 320 grams weight of cars tear through a corner in a tight pack. Listen to this guy, Matt!
Matt, I'm a sucker for track build/update videos and this is no exception 👏 Ive seen attic builds before however none that had to contend with a steep roof gable AND structural posts coming through the diorama itself, so kudos for making this work as it has.
Would you consider randomly crinkling butcher paper, painted or not, for your mountain sides in the next build? You achieved some excellent detail using the batting, there's no debate, I simply wonder if the payoff on screen was worth the arduous process. Looking to make things easier in the next iteration.
My philosophy, coming from a mere viewer, is put the details where they count most. Your better stuff should go where the camera will linger and maybe not where the view whizzes by. Just my two pence on the matter
Splendid show thanks for the tour, wishing you all success forward
💯😎🏁
Thanks for the feedback Chris! I've seen that done on Vittoria Diecast, which worked well. I'm a bit OCD and pretty ambitious with the next track so I'm going to try and outdo myself, but I do have some different tactics to try this time round. I will give that a go, even if it only ends up a temporary solution to get some races on the go whilst I work on the finder details.
@@XRDiecastRacing Jay @ Vittoria Diecast is a great example of using the crinkled paper technique! For added detail, randomly sponge painting your greens, browns and greys to the paper before crinkling saves you a step as there's no awkward reaching to paint after the paper is affixed to your frame
@@Chris_Hood I'll give it a try for sure. Access is going to be a lot harder on the new track with it coming out into the room rather than stacked in layers.