Had issues when masking varied cross sections with regular tamiya tape. Then tried tamiya white tape for curves. Elastic enough to conform when pulled tight - works well. Then fill the rest in behind the edge with regular masking tape. At the moment I've restricted my builds as straight out of box - no extras and not bothered with kit problems. In my mind I'm building a model and not an accurate scale replica. If I was entering models in shows then might think differently.
I managed to pick some of the early white box Tiggies and two of the new tool versions. The upgrade in the detailing is like chalk and cheese! Not sure why they never added an engine though as it would have been a nice addition. I did notice one of the boxes is the same as the one you have shown and the other one I have has a painting on the front but in a red civilian scheme. Great vid and glad you sorted the invasions stripes on the C47.
I despise Airfix plastic. So until they get that soft kids plastic better I refuse to build them. Just can’t deal with it. But yea glad the still make them. Not against them in anyway other than that. Dakota is nice looking! Invasion stripe was just an add on. In field so not an exact science if you follow me.🎉🎉
yeah my invasion stripes i made extra perfect, lol, just for the ceiling model, but not realistic. May do a rough job on my marauder. Funny that Airfix goes with such a soft plastic.
You are correct on the F-4 doors. They open to provide cooling air to enter for when engines are running. I received two more sets of Galaxy rivet wheels and have been riveting my 1/32 F-4s parts. The added detail is very subtle and helps setup where minor stressed skin effects can be made. There is a channel named, Warped Plastic that has a tutorial on Vac forming canopies you may find interesting. Another good chat, Deon.
I have some rivet wheels. What parts are you adding extra rivet detail to - id like to see, if you can post pics on the facebook page. do you know if those doors just remain open after shutdown?
@@deonjansen This is the only model in which the auxiliary air doors ("aux air doors" for short) are mentioned. These doors opened automatically when the landing gear handle was selected "down" on J79-powered Phantoms, and opened automatically on Spey-powered Phantoms when the air speed was below a certain limit. The aux air doors allow cooling air to circulate around the engines when the aircraft is at slow speeds or sitting stationary, and should always be open when the aircraft is parked. On the J79-powered versions, the doors snap shut when the engines are being shut down as the generators drop offline, but as soon as the engines have spooled down completely a ground crewman will pry them open and insert a safety strut to keep them open. Parts of the engines and the centerline keel structure are visible through the doors. J79-powered versions have only the pair of aux air doors on the belly while Spey powered versions have a second pair on the sides of the aft fuselage. With the engines shut down, the aft fuselage aux air doors drooped almost closed.
@@deonjansen I don't know how expensive they are but a couple of hobbyists in the know have claimed that a decal sheet can almost almost equal the cost of a smaller kit!
Quick non model question, on CZcams editing is there a button to hit for " notification " to alert subscribers you have posted? I get your channel on my over all mix but the algorithm can vary on what I see. Back to modeling, red lines on gear doors , especially front, help accentuate turning radious on wheels while towing, and are also used on idoors or on the fuselage to highlight any airflow inlet points on the aircraft to be cautious around, especially heat zones. A bit if irony on the D-Day stripes. The modeling community actually is " quilty " of painting straight/perfect lines. The order for D- Day stripes went out just days before the invasion . While width specifications and number/color sequence were established, there was not enough notification time for perfect alignment so a majority of stripes were painted with brooms and mops. After D-Day was well on its way there was time to properly paint the lines as new aircraft arrived.. So your " wounded" C47 fuselage stripes would not have to match. Oh, on the heat gun, practice practice , keep it moving, some high end models will get very hot and even used for paint stripping. You might be able to use a hair dryer to get enough heat to accomplish your task . Gloves would also increase safety , just a thought. Cheers, Bob
Hi Bob, if you link to my channel and then click on the subscribe button, i think thats where the options for notifications are, you should be able to choose between, all, highlights or none. something like that, sometimes you also see the little bell. let me know if you found the setting
Regarding invasion stripes, yes ive been looking and remembering various wartime photos of invasion stripes and they varies from pretty nicely done lines with a hand brush to broomed on very rough lines. so i think scaling that down to model size, one can almost get away with painting invasion stripes any which way, and you would have some variation that was done somewhere. One aspect little mentioned i think is the solidity and evenness, i dont think the way we model with a nice even coat is representative, certainly not like on my DC3, one should almost hand paint with a small brush and very thinned down paint to get an eneven finish. But i guess modelers want their models to look more like later style repainting of stripes in a nice way - which is understandable. Maybe i do one of my Marauders with badly painted stripes
@@deonjansen Thanks, that did the trick. The bell turned solid and went to " all". I must not have hit the full drop down box - now I think I'm good to go - thanks for the help. Cheers again , Bob
Thanks for posting, No crazy music , simple, and to the point, AWESOME !
Thank you so much for your videos, I am enjoying every one! from Judy in Nova Scotia, Canada
Had issues when masking varied cross sections with regular tamiya tape. Then tried tamiya white tape for curves. Elastic enough to conform when pulled tight - works well.
Then fill the rest in behind the edge with regular masking tape.
At the moment I've restricted my builds as straight out of box - no extras and not bothered with kit problems.
In my mind I'm building a model and not an accurate scale replica. If I was entering models in shows then might think differently.
I managed to pick some of the early white box Tiggies and two of the new tool versions. The upgrade in the detailing is like chalk and cheese! Not sure why they never added an engine though as it would have been a nice addition. I did notice one of the boxes is the same as the one you have shown and the other one I have has a painting on the front but in a red civilian scheme. Great vid and glad you sorted the invasions stripes on the C47.
looking forward to seeing, when you build
I despise Airfix plastic. So until they get that soft kids plastic better I refuse to build them. Just can’t deal with it. But yea glad the still make them. Not against them in anyway other than that. Dakota is nice looking! Invasion stripe was just an add on. In field so not an exact science if you follow me.🎉🎉
yeah my invasion stripes i made extra perfect, lol, just for the ceiling model, but not realistic. May do a rough job on my marauder. Funny that Airfix goes with such a soft plastic.
You are correct on the F-4 doors. They open to provide cooling air to enter for when engines are running. I received two more sets of Galaxy rivet wheels and have been riveting my 1/32 F-4s parts. The added detail is very subtle and helps setup where minor stressed skin effects can be made. There is a channel named, Warped Plastic that has a tutorial on Vac forming canopies you may find interesting. Another good chat, Deon.
I have some rivet wheels. What parts are you adding extra rivet detail to - id like to see, if you can post pics on the facebook page. do you know if those doors just remain open after shutdown?
@@deonjansen This is the only model in which the auxiliary air doors ("aux air doors" for short) are mentioned. These doors opened automatically when the landing gear handle was selected "down" on J79-powered Phantoms, and opened automatically on Spey-powered Phantoms when the air speed was below a certain limit. The aux air doors allow cooling air to circulate around the engines when the aircraft is at slow speeds or sitting stationary, and should always be open when the aircraft is parked. On the J79-powered versions, the doors snap shut when the engines are being shut down as the generators drop offline, but as soon as the engines have spooled down completely a ground crewman will pry them open and insert a safety strut to keep them open. Parts of the engines and the centerline keel structure are visible through the doors. J79-powered versions have only the pair of aux air doors on the belly while Spey powered versions have a second pair on the sides of the aft fuselage. With the engines shut down, the aft fuselage aux air doors drooped almost closed.
@@deonjansen soyuyo.main.jp/f4/f4side_c.png There are many plan drawings to refer to for rivet detail.
czcams.com/video/7_RhlA3IciA/video.html This shows the doors open many times and it is a super cool video.
@@SEMJW thanks - nice explanation. Looks like youre going to be our resident F-4 expert
I understand that the decals by Cartograph are very expensive so two decals in one box would bump up the price of a box with only one plastic kit.
hmm, now you got me wondering how much the manufacturers pay for decals from them, but yeah i get your point.
@@deonjansen I don't know how expensive they are but a couple of hobbyists in the know have claimed that a decal sheet can almost almost equal the cost of a smaller kit!
Quick non model question, on CZcams editing is there a button to hit for " notification " to alert subscribers you have posted? I get your channel on my over all mix but the algorithm can vary on what I see. Back to modeling, red lines on gear doors , especially front, help accentuate turning radious on wheels while towing, and are also used on idoors or on the fuselage to highlight any airflow inlet points on the aircraft to be cautious around, especially heat zones. A bit if irony on the D-Day stripes. The modeling community actually is " quilty " of painting straight/perfect lines. The order for D- Day stripes went out just days before the invasion . While width specifications and number/color sequence were established, there was not enough notification time for perfect alignment so a majority of stripes were painted with brooms and mops. After D-Day was well on its way there was time to properly paint the lines as new aircraft arrived.. So your " wounded" C47 fuselage stripes would not have to match. Oh, on the heat gun, practice practice , keep it moving, some high end models will get very hot and even used for paint stripping. You might be able to use a hair dryer to get enough heat to accomplish your task . Gloves would also increase safety , just a thought. Cheers, Bob
Hi Bob, if you link to my channel and then click on the subscribe button, i think thats where the options for notifications are, you should be able to choose between, all, highlights or none. something like that, sometimes you also see the little bell. let me know if you found the setting
Regarding invasion stripes, yes ive been looking and remembering various wartime photos of invasion stripes and they varies from pretty nicely done lines with a hand brush to broomed on very rough lines. so i think scaling that down to model size, one can almost get away with painting invasion stripes any which way, and you would have some variation that was done somewhere. One aspect little mentioned i think is the solidity and evenness, i dont think the way we model with a nice even coat is representative, certainly not like on my DC3, one should almost hand paint with a small brush and very thinned down paint to get an eneven finish. But i guess modelers want their models to look more like later style repainting of stripes in a nice way - which is understandable. Maybe i do one of my Marauders with badly painted stripes
@@deonjansen Thanks, that did the trick. The bell turned solid and went to " all". I must not have hit the full drop down box - now I think I'm good to go - thanks for the help. Cheers again , Bob