My First Time Welding With 7014
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- čas přidán 4. 01. 2024
- In this video I will be welding with 7014 for the first time. I will be sharing my real life first impressions. I will be stick welding with my sae 300 lincoln engine drivin welding machine. I will be welding on 12" pipe. I will be building a charcoal grill out of a piece of 12" pipe. I will be using my mobile welding rig and I will be stick welding.
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7024 next please austin
you can do a whole series on different welding rods lol
“If this is what DIY welders feel like, no wonder they don’t want to weld” Classic 🤣🤣
Austin E-7014 is just E-6013 plus added [25-30%] iron powder in the coating to improve deposit rate, operation, bead appearance ect. High iron powder rods run super smoothe and laysdown metal fast and pretty. As other commenters said, you need to run hot and keep the rod angled 30-45 deg. in the direction of travel, keeping the heavy slag from geting under or ahead of the arc. VERY IMPORTANT THESE ARE DRAG RODS you must keep the coating touching the work and a short arc. Look at the end of a used stub and you will see a flux cup. The wire is burned back fron the end. This is your arc length. If you try to hold an arc [as with 6010] you are doubling the arc length to over 1/4"! Long arc means Less amperage [heat]Short or drag arc more amperage [heat] loosing arc force needed to keep the slag Behind the arc.😎As you weld out of position with these rods the heavy slag and fluid puddle works against you. E6013 is better all position, E7014 just makes the AWS all positiion standard.
Good man thanks I am trying 2 get my boss buy them for fixing buckets
Exactly what I was going to say. I worked for a mobile home factory welding the frames one time when times got thin ya know. Just like 7024, but you can run it vertical. But you gotta run, and actually turn up the heat higher than you'd think. Once ya get the hang of them you can really throw down some metal. God bless, and work safe.
Around the farm I don't weld anything too thick and everything's rusty. 7018 won't run and 6011 blows holes in everything. 7014 I found is just amazing for this type of stuff.
We used to use them in ship yards for repairs. They are designed for rusty steel, similar to a 6013.
Ok makes sense then cause i make panels and am no lazy to clean my metal up. But they seem to start the arc better in rusty conditions verses cleaning them anyway
I've been welding for about 18 yrs and using 7014 for most of that time. I love the rod.
Smooth, clean bead
Good penetration
Has to run a bit hotter than most. I run 3/32" at 95 to 100; 1/8" at 125 to 130 on inverter.
Run hot on inside corners (fillets) and a bit cooler on outside corners as you said.
Drag rod, shove it in, low rod angle gives slag problems
Uphill rod, don't manipulate or you'll get slag inclusions
Easy restrikes
Doesn't need rod/heat oven.
I suggest you get a bunch of scrap mild steel, usually A36 type and practice a lot with it. It will weld different from 7018 you're used to. Glad you gave the old 7014 a try, Now I need to practice more with 7018!!!!
Just for curiosity sake,what are you using it on because I haven't even seen it in about 30 years.
Mild steel, aka "A36"@@scottmacleod6301
@@scottmacleod6301 Over all it's a faster depositing rod for laying in a more filler metal faster than 6013, same rutile chemistry as 6013 and 7024 with an iron content between the two so the puddle is more controlled than 24 allowing some modest "all position" work.
But it depends a good deal on the brand. Specs for ESAB 6013 and 7014 have the 6013 significantly stronger in yield and ultimate, their 7014 necks more with very similar elongation at break, but they don't give any charpy impact results for 7014 so not easy to compare actual toughness.
Lincoln 6013(fleetweld 37rsp) and 7014(fleetweld 47rsp) are very similar to eachother in strength with a slight edge to 7014, but they do have charpy results for both which show 7014 as somewhat less brittle than 6013 and a narrower range for the 7014 (more consistent). (Slightly different temperatures 6013 at 0⁰f and 7014 at -20⁰f) Elongation at break slightly favors 37rsp.
Man 7014 rod is like 6011 and 6013 got all beered up and made a baby in the back of a half ton chevy. Weird smoke tons of slag bunch of trash floating around. Super hard rod to read. Love your content man, wish i could make the change from equipment repair welding into something a man could be prouder of.
First and foremost I’m not nearly the welder you are by experience or by trade. I’m a self taught welder who had no choice except to teach myself. I do like welding and have been welding on my farm equipment and making 3 point hook up equipment a long with repairs for over 10 years. I first started using 7014 1/8 and 5/32 on a trailer that I built for a friend. I used all new metal. I used 6011 as a root pass and then capped with 7014 1/8 and best I can remember I had my machine set about 190 amps for this other wise the welds looked like you stated cold weld not bonding. I never was successful at using these rods on uncleared metal I would always make it bright clean. These rods don’t penetrate like 6011 or 6010. I just basically used them for capping and filler multiple passes. Then after watching and picking up pointers from you I dropped them for 7018 and found that the 18 rods are a better way to fly. And never used 3/32 rods until you and a retired welder buddy that I custom bail for told me they are much easier to use. I’m fairly well stuck on 6010, 6011, and 7018. I have used others but now I see why the 7018 are a better option. My money is on you going back to the 18. I don’t think I did so much grinding in my life until I realized I had to turn the heat up on the 7014. Thanks for sharing your experiences it takes caring person to share the his experiences.
I'm like you I'm a self taught welder and I love learning new welding techniques on the fly,awesome video
I appreciate how humble you are while being a top notch welder. Youngsters a d experienced welders alike can learn alot from you. Thanks for all the info on all your videos.
Pleasure is all mine
Thanks for sharing with us Austin. Attempting to weld around the shed is tough for me. I tend to stick with whatever holds the mower together or the trailer gate in place. I won't weld for anyone or for pulling things or holding up things. I still hire that out but I have a ball lite duty welding. Stay safe and keep up the good tutorials. Fred.
I love watching Victor go,go,go !!!!
Those hinges are amazing.
Austin, great channel! I picked up the last 15 pounds of a carton of 7028 and was pleasantly surprised how well they did with AC/DC on horizontal only welding. I built a trailer with it (rotating the frame (Horizontal position) in 1983 and still use it on the road to this day. It is a thick coated rod with lotsa flux on it. 3/32 or 1/8 is a great horizontal only rod.
I began welding in 1966, and just about every time I watch your videos, I learn some new little twist about one thing or another. Good show.
👆🇺🇸👆
7014 runs nice on ac but if your running on dcep I find your amps haft to be higher and more of a steep drag angle to keep all the flux behind you
I've bin in the building trades for 28 years now I was a welder fabricator now I'm a crane operator after watching your video on building the pipe welder truck body I realized how much I miss fabricating and welding thanks for your attention to detail and sharing your work!
7014 runs beautifully on an AC machine. Really easy flux removal, as well. Austin, use more drag angle with 7014 !
They are really fluid when you turn them up so they run good.
Great video Austin! Save those knees, put that on a table!!
We ran 3/16 7024 and 7014 for second pass on pipe tub bottoms, timber head jobs. Any time we needed a big second pass and wanted to lay down some metal. Not for tacking up or fabrication. The 3/16 rods were where the Big 40 would shine! The Sa 200 would run them but you would have to stop every now and then and let ‘em cool down. Those were the days! You could almost run a box ( 50 lbs) in a day. Thanks, Mike
Always awesome seeing an informative video Austin. I have never used 7014. I was always under the impression that the slag will infiltrate the puddle. I have seen way better welders than me leave snail trails or worm things all over really making a mess. I get the impression after all that you have to go faster than the slag that is being made.
Give it a shot, not all that much different but restrike just like the first.
IM STARTING TO GET INTO WELDING AND BRO U ARE MY FAVORITE WELDER BEST WELDER IVE EVER SEEN FR
that was pro move with burner circle before starting the triangel 👌
I like to just make a couple different joints and grab a new rod and figure out the range they work best for each joint configuration I’m doing. I always keep notes in my book. My machines and all the machines at the shop. That way if I forget what I had a machine set on I can just look in my notebook and get a good start point and tweak to what the puddle tells me I need.
Feet first is always more fun and makes you really pay attention to the puddle.
Keep up the good works Austin. Love your videos
I like the 7014, especially for what most of my welding is. Been making lots of cattle panels and with the lighter material the lack of penetration from this rod helps not blow through. I use an old ac machine and it works well in the flat, horizontal and even over head positions. I struggle more in vertical welds and usually go with a 7018 if i cant flip the panel to flat or horizontal. As i mature in my welding i am using 6011 and 7018 more and more but with the light panels i make its easy to through down i nice strong weld
The way I learn is to try doing things a different way, sometimes it takes a little longer but I always learn from it. As I have been teaching my young coworker, I will show him what happens when the heat is too high, too low, and how fast to travel. You have to think on a different level when teaching, even if you teaching yourself, like what happens when I try this or that. I’ve learned more from teaching than being told what to do.
Pferd or Ferd makes great abrasives. I like their 6" braided wire wheels. Them and the Norton Bluefire are what I prefer.
Amazing torch skills! Welding too.
I enjoy both approaches! Usually I will research though. Great vid brother! 👊 from Michigan!
I used this in a fab shop for stitch welds if you clean up the steel first with a wire brush and run it hot and close to the material as possible it lays a bead like butter
I used it when i had only AC output..worked great!
We always used ac, ran hot, and they lay down slick. God bless and work safe.
I enjoy it for flat work only on AC. Pretty quick work and lays a nice looking bead. I have tried it on DC a handful of times and I have never gotten the same performance that I do with AC.
good video Austin, best regards
I've recommended it to you a few times and am glad you tried it. I think you'd like 1/8" better. D/C 145 amps ish
I actually prefer 7014 mostly for the re-strikes. Plus you don't need a rod oven.
Next try 7024. 😃
Jump in head first and figure it out. Great video.
My favorite rod as well..
Why? 7018 is the industry standard. If it's good enough for structural steel it's good enough for anything.
Just easier to work with on short runs, restarts so much easier than 7018. I generally go either 6011 or 7014 or sometimes 6013.
@@AY-cj9kpI also prefer 7014, but if you add a little flick when breaking the arc with 7018, restarts are very easy. It gets rid of the molten flux that causes restrike problems.
Great weld...looks slick just 7018
It's in the same category as 7024 but you can weld in all positions with it I use this Rod all the time 4 automotive and putting brackets back on tractors patching buckets it's a fill rod hi deposit it's a great in between a 6010 or 6011 and you just get below flush and you can put a nice 7018 or 8018 cap on top of that and she's cherry
Cool project 👍
3rd and last comment I just realized you were using your generator to weld with that so you were using a sinusoidal wave rotary welder you should try it with your inverter stick welder I think you'll like what you find try it with your inverter your little Lincoln inverter 7014 works great on inverters
I like 7014 for tacking expanded mesh on guarding
Thank god for MIG welders. At least you can get a flux core wire for windy situations...
I self-taught myself with 6013 and 7014 on super rusty metal because that's all I could find to learn with beginning and all and then somebody suggested 6011 and 7018 and wow the world changed but I can weld really well with 6013 and 7014 just got to get the split clean
It's a higher deposition Rod there's iron dust in the flux that adds to the weld puddle. It's made for faster moving higher amperage high-speed deposition with medium weld penetration. That's probably why it feels more like spray arc. Love you videos, best way to learn is to get out of your comfort zone.
Note to self..."DON'T BUY THEM 7014 RODS" 😁 COOL grill
Sanding off the mill scale always helps (although with right rod not essential) and certainly won't hurt regardless of which rod or other welding prossess you use.
Surprised you never ran it before,
I made up welding bead samples on a big plate that hung on a wall of every type of rod we sold. when a customer wanted to know how it ran ect. I would show them, made selling much easier, so I ran everything in the book to know the product.
I understand we get into using certain rods and live with them, my first rod I ever ran as a youngen (10) was 6011 went thru a few #50 boxes in my informative years, all before MIG came out, yea i'am old 😂😂, my old man said if you can run 6011 you can run anything.
I'm a hobby welder, and I love 7014 because it's so easy to use. So I was startled to see it giving you (much more skilled than I) some trouble. Then I realized I have a buzz box (AC) and a cheap inverter welder (pulsating DC that acts more like AC). The electrodes I have work fine on both machines.
I know what an awesome stick 7018 is, and I even have some 3/32" 7018AC, but restarts are tricky and take time. When it's weld'n season (right about now) and I unplug the microwave, and run the ten ga. extension cord out the back door, I know that at 80A or above that breaker's gonna trip.
So I can do what you did, but my beads will be staggered and done 1/2inch at a time, or maybe three small beads instead of one. So 7014 is a lot easier for me.
One tip I know is that the closer to a right angle you keep the stick, the more the bead will flatten out (at least horizontal position), and at 45deg. it will stack up on top of the base metal, like 6013.
Good for you, to get out of your comfort zone.
Nice looking barbecue pit
I used to love 7014 when I welded landing gears on peanut trailers all the time it's kind of a mix between a 6013 and a 7018 I mainly liked them for the overhead welding that was hard to get a grinder or anything in there to clean the metal I always hated 6013 so 7014 was my go to you can make some really nice welds with it too I used to run 1/8 7014 at 110-120 amps
They will weld really thin metal pretty well, as I recall. I think I welded 18awg with it on really low amps. I don't use it much. I think it's much like 6013.
you know thats a good question! i think it both watching and doing for me like i think you can get some good tips watching other people do it but i think when you actually do it yourself thats when you really learn 06
I have never used 7014,but years ago, I made a grill similar to that for my personal use, I used some old farming disc as end pieces & used my all purpose junkyard rod, 6011...good thing I'm retired, because if I ever had to weld with any thing but 6011...I couldn't pass the test! I do know that most low hydrogen rods require a lot more heat to get penetration & most low hydrogen are ac/DC and up hill, which is also the hardest part of welding...much easier to go downhill, & let the slag drop out below the puddle. I have also learned on the old junk yard welding,that low hydrogen rods are hard to use on rusted metal: too much slag- but that's just my experience, I use that 1/8 6011 with my old Lincoln tombstone/ 225 a.c. crackerbox that I ordered from Montgomery Ward catalog in 1977 & it still rattles onward!
Very good Video 👍 👍
Wow you are really good at free hand cutting with the torch, impressive work. I struggle with that lol.
Thank you
Bon Boulo😆😆👍👍 Bonne Année
Nice video. Interested in what you are using to chip slag out of the way.
Really appreciate your channel.
And I should add with this second comment there is as you've already figured out an epic amount of slag that's that gummy stuff you was talking about you can get the slag in your puddle real quick you can also get worm tracks that big void you had on your hinge bracket there are people that don't like this Rod because it is a challenge to use it just like 6013 is a challenge to use and most of the time it's because the slag forces you to keep the rod angle correct or you will get it in your puddle and have inclusions City
As a DIY hobbyist my biggest hurdle is coming up with projects to do to practice welding. A hitch mount grill is intriguing, but I don't have access to pipe of that size.
Not sure if I took it the wrong way but what did you mean that you just found put yiur machine was a DC machine?
Best 2 farm rods out there..............7014 and 6013
I agree 7018s pretty good too 6013 is my favorite rod of all time 7014 is a great rod for heavier metals like 3/4 plate
I run a lot of 7014. I am not a full time welder, and I don't want to have to deal with 7018 storage requirements, so 7014 is what I keep in my truck. I run 1/8" 7014 at about 120amps on a good fit up. 100amps on a bad fit up. Makes a nice bead, plenty of penetration, easy to start and restart. I have a hard time getting it fully fill-up the crater at the end of a run. Always end up with a slight dish no matter what I do. It runs fine uphill, but leaves too big a bead for my taste, so I still use 6011 for that.
Austin. It’s funny I should come across this video about 7014 today. I’m an avid follower of yours and recently got myself a little gas engine driven Multiquip machine to start learning on. I’ve been running 6011 and recently was given 2 5lb sleeves of rod that ended up being 7014. As a real green beginner….i just can’t get the hang of 7014.
Yeah the slag runs around with 7014 and 7024 more drag angle helps with that
Back when I was just welding for the farm that I worked on and for neighbors and only had access to an old Marquette AC stick welder and had no knowledge of impact properties I ran miles of 1/8 7014. I preferred it to 6013 because of higher tensile strength (I knew what the number designation on stick electrodes meant). Once I started welding professionally and started educating myself on weld metal mechanical properties I stopped using it and haven’t used it since. I’m sure they’re fine for non-critical welding but why take a chance. Apparently, they worked though because I never had any failures and I welded tons of things that shouldn’t have been welded with 7014 before I knew any better.
usually use a grinding wheel similar for welding kennametal in power plants its a pricey wire and grinding wheel but takes experience to tig weld
Duke Energy ‘s test on a 6G is 7014. No landing with a 2” square as a spacing. 2”- 12” - Pipe is required. Practice, practice, practice. I was the only one who passed out of 4000 welders.
6011's are specifically made for A/C polarity because of the potassium in the flux coating which burns good because of hertz&frequency
I'm a diyer who LIKES to weld. I use smaller diameter, usually 3/32 7014, with my old ac buzz box and find it to be one of the easiest rods for that. Much easier to "read the puddle" than 6013.
I used a lot of 7014 welding 10 and 12 gauge galivinized angle to bridge beams. Old timer gave me some advice and it it was strike and drag. Dont manipulate it your playing with it too much. Atleast for what we are welding. Never did like 7014 for doing verticle up or down always swapped over to 7018. Personally I think it’s more of a flat rod.
Austin, most pipeline machines are DC only output. I have mostly run 7014 on AC, and don't have enough hood time with them on DC to form any significant opinion. I prefer the 7014 if for no other reason than I do not have random porosity issues with them. Admittedly, I haven't had porosity with 7018 in a while, bit I still tend to grab 7014 unless I think the added ductility of 7018 is needed.
Try some 7024 if you have flat work to do. You'll have to turn the heat up, but it will fill in a bevel faster than anything else.
More drag. Don't manipulate the rod as much. Just drag. My favorite rod. Really like your vids. Been a subscriber for a long time.
7014 is all we use where i work. crank up the heat real high and get going. im a production welder at a concrete panel factory and i weld the form together.
Also was always taught to set your remote on 50 or better set your course setting so that can be accomplished.
Great video ! , I’ve never used 7014 , but want to try it as well . .. prolly like you lil bit of research , lots of coffee & burn it ! lol
Can someone clarify for me...I see a lot of comments about 6013 being a farmer rod and good for rusty material. I was always taught that 6013 was really only good for thin gauge and had a hard time penetrating rust. 6010 was the rod most farmers typically use and was great at penetrating rust.
Chop your machine Austin 🤙🏽
7014 is a fast fill rod, so you were doing some out of position stuff, I am sure you felt it was a bit more fluid than 7018. Hot and fast for production work. Would be interesting to time the difference between 7018 vs 7014, maybe 2 sides of a gate?
Works well on AC.
Make the steak.... Cool grill
The heat transfers up the plate on a fillet weld. We aim the rod more at the rear plate, than we do a 45° or into the bottom plate on the root pass. Thats where the heat goes. Just like doing a vert up 7018 plate... all that heat goes up. You xan crank it and pull the rod away from the plate to increase heat, but dont. 😂
Number 1 all positions
Never welded, but enjoy the informative videos you provide. Hope to give it a try one day.
need to turn 'er up between 100-140s...even 150 but you're movin fast at that heat. I drag 7014s rarely push my puddle. It's supposed to be an "all positions" rod, but downhill, I wouldn't recommend it because of the slag build-up. An excellent video sir!
73-75 on my primeweld and the read out is 11amps under on the leads with an amp clamp. So 84-86 amps for a 7014 3/32 en or ac ran best. EP if it was just a 1g weld.
And I found the railroad tracks usually happen when you travel too slow or too fast or don't fill your start enough. Too slow can be over come by steeper rod angle. Too fast and poor start can be overcome by slowing down slightly or changing rod angle
But that is definitely a Cool BBQ grill for the back of a truck 😎
If you ever get the chance to buy Pferd files, get some. I get them by the dozen for saw chain filing--PREMO stuff !
7014 has alien looking slag when run at correct temp. It tends to to puddle then blow out and crater because it cools very slowly. You running it vertically gave me bad flashbacks. Lol. It doesnt want to
I've never been able to get consistent welds with 7014. Guess I just haven't had enough experience with them. I always seem to get inclusions of slag here and there.
For me, the 7018 is much more forgiving. (Still waiting for the Teflon tip for easier restrike though LOL !!!)
Another reason the fillet weld takes more heat is also because a lap weld has two ways the heat can escape, whereas a fillet weld gives three ways for the heat to escape.
The only rods I've used is 6010 6011 7018 ... i weld pipe in a fab shop we use P5+ 7018 and lot of flux wire
เป็นกำลังใจให้ครับ🌏🤝🇹🇭♥️🙏🛠️
I like medium rare please! great video
Have you run 6013? I hear online that 6013 and 7014 are very similar, may need more of a drag angle to push the crap away from puddle.
Y ou have to remember 7014 has iron powder in the Flux so you're melting that into,the puddle! Good advice is to get a Lincoln welding rod se
lection guide book !!
Hi Austin, just wondering and sorry if you have already mentioned in a previpus video (you almost certainly have) whats the reason fpr rooting with 6010 and going downhand when pipelining ? How come you dont jusy use 7018 for the root hot pass and fill ? Thanks for doing what you do
Pferd is the german word for Horse. I think they usually name it the horse brand in english speaking countries.
These discs are great for bevelling.
7014 is great for welding grader blades. Only thing I've found that will stick
I'm watching the spatter during the welding. My guess is there is MOISTURE in the rods. Haven't welded much 7014 buy had goog luck with it. It came out of a sealed #5 box. Don't recall if it should be stored in an oven. Will have to do a little research. Thanks
Run it hot, flat and alot of rod angle and move its like 7024. Mayɓe 1/4" on 12" rise and weld uphill slightly up hill we build a big heavy walking beam for a steel mill it was 12 ft long to cap it i used 1/4" 7024 i put a 2"x4" on one end where it had a slight rise and started on the low end it helped a bunch those 1/4" 7024 are 5/8" dia and 18" long when you start the stinger would be over your head by the end of 12 hrs it was like holding a baseball bat . If you ever have any questions about how to run a rod ive been welding for 36 yrs ive ran a few different kind of rods i can give you some suggestions on them
From my experience 7014 is the easiest rod to use on the Lincoln 225 amp buzz box welder. It doesn't work well for anything uphill or upside down. Pretty much impossible to do uphill and upside down with the Lincoln 225 buzz box. Just watching you weld with your welder I was wondering what you would think of the 7014 rods since the 7018 seems to work so well for you. I'm glad you tried them just for the heck of it. There is definitely a big difference between Ac welder and a Dc welder in how the puddle behaves.