DIY Viscous Fan Clutch Repair and Service
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- čas přidán 8. 09. 2024
- An instructional video to show you how i serviced/refill oil in your clutch fan setup on my Isuzu Dmax. This process can be applied to other makes and models running a similar setup. These units are normally non serviceable but i did it anyway and it works. This video is instructional only and do everything at your own risk.
Music: Raintown - Alchemorph
Many video i see about refill fan clutch oil, but you video i think the correct way to refill the oil.. great job 👍
Except that he did it wrong. He calculated the viscosity wrong (and I think over-filled it too).
If you are going to mix oils, see my post. (I also am posting my fill level insights).
@@troubleshooter197518:41
I also think you possibly over-filled it:
AFAIK, if you fill it plump full, that 'center' hole will empty out when the fan is spinning (when the engine is running).
It won't be able to store the full amount of fluid you added, in the reservoir!
It will be engaged all the time...
I don't know how much oil is distributed as residual 'film' in the clutch, or remaining in the pumping edge channel, but I think you want the center equivalent volume, 'open' in the center...
You probably just have to estimate that volume by eyeball.
I think a partially filled clutch can produce excessive heating (slip loss).
Mr K L
Until I saw your video I had no idea anybody ever rebuild a viscous fan clutch
This is quite interesting. In the US, I’ve not seen a fan clutch that was serviceable. Ours are all crimped together (at least those I’ve worked on) so you would destroy it by disassembling.
Good job taking this repair on!
I also appreciate seeing how you determined the proper ratio of each oil. That’s a great way.
thanks mate. well in Australia they're also non serviceable but just wanted to share how cheap it is to rebuild it cause I know some fan clutches can cost more than mine. especially when we do water crossings with the constant hot cold cycle it goes through the seal jsut doesn't last
@@TheSteelArmadillo Yes, except he did it all WRONG!
His formulas were for solution concentrations, not viscosities! Completely different... (see my post if you are intending on mixing viscosities).
The fan rotates freely because the fan clutch has lost the silicone fluid. If the bearing is worn out and the shaft is loose, the seal will not prevent a loss of fluid.
Thank you so much for the video! This is fantastic!!
Glad it was helpful!
I've noticed you fill the reservoir entirely, another individual holds it vertically not horizontally flat as you've done; & fills until it begins to seep out. How'd you determine which amount is appropriate?
Hello!! How do you know what viscosity the vehicle needs?
report on how it went? how long did it last?
Yea,same happened to me. Bought it New but it didn’t open in boiling water. Put it in Trash.
Did you hold it 'upright'???
Did you give it time for the oil to migrate into the clutch?
Without it rotating 500rpm or more, there is no centrifugal pumping action to fling the oil into the clutch fins.
It would take some time for it to ooze there on it's won, by gravity alone...
If you had it 'horizontal' (in the pot of boiling water), then the oil would remain in the reservoir...
I'll assume you positioned it in a 'normal' attitude, and worked it a while, before you pitched it...
[Oh, depending on how it was positioned, when sitting in stock, and during shipment; you could receive a part with the oil all settled in the reservoir, and appear bad, and another identical clutch could arrive, with the oil accumulated in the clutch plates, and appear 'locked', even though at room temperature...]
Mr K L
We're not talking thermostats😄... These are fan clutches; a completely different animal👹
Hi, where can i found dis oil to buy?
hobby shops. they sell them as diff oil for remote control cars
the blinker fluid section
oil name gread & vescocity
10w30. maybe watch the video?
it actually doesnt work off changing viscosity , that bimetal spring moves a valve
I guess so some run a coil spring while mine had a flat piece of metal which wasnt connected to anything 🤷♂️🤷♂️. But at the end of the day, the system is closed and has oil inside, my main concern was to replace the oil as close to factory spec as possible for it to work again.
@@mkcofficial7197 Yeah, I guess the only concern would be if the clutch never disengages, it would theoretically be possible to OVER-cool the engine....if your thermostat was stuck open, I suppose. The clutch always being engaged would also put a tiny bit more continuous load on the engine. Just to confirm, you don't think your viscous clutch has a valve/switch? (I don't know much about Isuzus)
@@adamkinsey3139 Hey yes that's theoretically correct! and an over cool engine is also bad for performance and emissions. It my first DIY i did on the car so i did find it had a bi metal valve which was attatched to some sort of rod leading to inside the housing but it dint do much. I suppose some cars will have a coily spring which actuates the fluid flow to 'lock the clutch' inside the fan to engage it. Im no engineer, just sharing my experiences of whats worked as a cheap quick alternative to replacing the unit in the unfortunate event the oil leaks.
After about 5 months the car runs at 86 to 88 degrees C in ambient 25 to 28 degree weather and doesn't drop or fall withins say, 3 degrees of that or boil out the recovery cap anymore. so i guess it works well enough to regulate the coolant temp along with the new thermostat.
@@mkcofficial7197 That flat strip of metal is the bi-metal valve control element.
It presses the pin in and closes the 'reed' valve finger you see as you are filling it.
One end is riveted to the cover, the other covers the oil feed hole in the reservoir (at the opposite side than the rivets).
When it heats up, it bows out, and releases the pressure on the rod and the valve spring strip; opening the feed hole...
Mr K L