Here's the list. Which one do you guys think I missed? 1. Critter Guards 2. Consumption Monitors 3. Attic Runs 4. Microinverters 5. Generator Modules 6. Bi-Annual Cleaning Service 7. Solar-Integrated EV Charger
The RDS (rapid shut down) requirement added to the most recent additions of the NEC (national electric code) works against those who want to try to install string inverters. The NEC basically requires you to install multiple failure points that simply aren't a problem when using string inverters. Also string inverters are typically at ground level and much more easily replaced. In my opinion string inverters are easier to troubleshoot because the whole array will stop functioning. String inverters are much more reliable regardless of the propaganda PREACHED to the contrary.
@@jackthesolarguy I was gonna use old pallets that I grabbed from behind the grocery store and some scrap lumber from the dumpster or FB Markteplace :) In all seriousness....you have a great channel keep up the good work.
I mounted mine along my backyard Cinderblock wall using 2x3" wood Rails and Tapcons to the brick, and then 1x2 wood to build square frames for each panel that offset them slightly from the wall, then 4" hinges mounted to each square frame then mounted back to the 2x3". You can use Gate T brackets from Lowes or home depot on the square frames to build the angled leg supports that line up in the cinderblock cracks and support the panels. When's summers over I can easily tilt all the panels more south, I can also fold the panels down out of the way for storms or maintenance. I mounted 4 panels for less than $50 and looks clean as heck.
For the vertical run from the roof, I routed the conduit against the downspout. I routed the conduit horizontally between the bottom edge of the siding and the concrete foundation. I spray painted the conduit to closely match the siding; very unobtrusive method to aesthetically blend the build into the existing structure.
With the increased temperatures in so many locations, I see this causing more fire issues and cable problems than critters ever could! Highly dangerous.
@@artsmith103 Inside the roof might be cooler, but it's obvious that black surfaces attract heat. With open ended panels there's also obviously a natural airflow that helps to cool the panels. Shut that airflow off, or significantly reduce it and the space under the panels will heat up. Why do you think that all installations gave a 2-4" space underneath? Why to other options have a mesh design to continue to allow airflow? Go ahead and try it and let me know what happens. I guarantee that it will reduce the lifespan of the panels, micro inverters and cables while also reducing output of the panels by a minimum of 2% just to make them look nice.
I design my solar systems to supply only one or more appliances and lighting, not the whole house. I use several cheaper charge controllers, 1 tied to each PV string, and all tied to a central busbar. Each charge controller runs at about 1/3 of capacity to charge my batteries and each may charge at a different rate depending on time of day and shading. All the batteries are tied to that central busbar so that all batteries are charged equally. Then my inverters are also tied to that busbar. The best thing about my designs is that if my batteries get low or I lose an inverter, the appliances are automatically switched back to grid power.
I've been trying to decide between micro inverters or string, however, I have decided to go with String as it is a single failure point instead of 29 failure points for my system. While yes, the whole system will go down, it's also 28 less items that could potentially fail and doesn't require the roof being accessed to fix it. I will be curious to find out how many people with 29 microinverters make it 25 years without an issue with one of them.
... then imagine you want to add more panels after five years but the manufacturer of the micro inverters is no longer around or the micro inverters are no longer compatible... String just makes more sense - especially with split PV panels equipped with diodes... just perhaps add another MPPT module.
the next step will be to buy a new inverter because your old inverter have only 94% rendement and the new one can have 95 % like that you do not need a ROI calculation because you never going to make the outcome from it.
Here's the list. Which one do you guys think I missed?
1. Critter Guards
2. Consumption Monitors
3. Attic Runs
4. Microinverters
5. Generator Modules
6. Bi-Annual Cleaning Service
7. Solar-Integrated EV Charger
The RDS (rapid shut down) requirement added to the most recent additions of the NEC (national electric code) works against those who want to try to install string inverters. The NEC basically requires you to install multiple failure points that simply aren't a problem when using string inverters. Also string inverters are typically at ground level and much more easily replaced.
In my opinion string inverters are easier to troubleshoot because the whole array will stop functioning. String inverters are much more reliable regardless of the propaganda PREACHED to the contrary.
You missed having an automatic transfer back to grid in case of failure.
Most of these points are why I am going to ground mount. If you have the room it seems the best option.
Ground mount is a great option. Slightly higher cost because of the racking/concrete/trenching, but comes with benefits.
@@jackthesolarguy I was gonna use old pallets that I grabbed from behind the grocery store and some scrap lumber from the dumpster or FB Markteplace :) In all seriousness....you have a great channel keep up the good work.
I mounted mine along my backyard Cinderblock wall using 2x3" wood Rails and Tapcons to the brick, and then 1x2 wood to build square frames for each panel that offset them slightly from the wall, then 4" hinges mounted to each square frame then mounted back to the 2x3". You can use Gate T brackets from Lowes or home depot on the square frames to build the angled leg supports that line up in the cinderblock cracks and support the panels. When's summers over I can easily tilt all the panels more south, I can also fold the panels down out of the way for storms or maintenance. I mounted 4 panels for less than $50 and looks clean as heck.
For the vertical run from the roof, I routed the conduit against the downspout. I routed the conduit horizontally between the bottom edge of the siding and the concrete foundation. I spray painted the conduit to closely match the siding; very unobtrusive method to aesthetically blend the build into the existing structure.
In the UK we have a weekly cleaning service. Its called "rain".
I use a squeegee and the morning dew. It's called cheap!
Wouldn't the skirt guard reduce air flow under the panels increasing panel temperature which reduces the panel efficiency?
That is correct, and is a downside of using the skirt guard as opposed to wire guard. Great point
With the increased temperatures in so many locations, I see this causing more fire issues and cable problems than critters ever could! Highly dangerous.
@simonpaine2347 I think you made that up. Roof should be much cooler with panels than without
@@artsmith103 Inside the roof might be cooler, but it's obvious that black surfaces attract heat. With open ended panels there's also obviously a natural airflow that helps to cool the panels. Shut that airflow off, or significantly reduce it and the space under the panels will heat up. Why do you think that all installations gave a 2-4" space underneath? Why to other options have a mesh design to continue to allow airflow?
Go ahead and try it and let me know what happens. I guarantee that it will reduce the lifespan of the panels, micro inverters and cables while also reducing output of the panels by a minimum of 2% just to make them look nice.
@@simonpaine2347 You said the roof would be hotter than no panels. That's what I corrected.
When did they make an RX-8 EV?
I design my solar systems to supply only one or more appliances and lighting, not the whole house.
I use several cheaper charge controllers, 1 tied to each PV string, and all tied to a central busbar.
Each charge controller runs at about 1/3 of capacity to charge my batteries and each may charge at a different rate depending on time of day and shading.
All the batteries are tied to that central busbar so that all batteries are charged equally.
Then my inverters are also tied to that busbar.
The best thing about my designs is that if my batteries get low or I lose an inverter, the appliances are automatically switched back to grid power.
A question with the critter guards, won't the mesh be a way better option than the panels because of airflow and cooling of the pannels?
That is correct. Mesh guards are more economical and effective, whereas the solid guard is more aesthetically pleasing
A solid skirt will reduce airflow under the panel, making it hotter, and thus reducing the output.
That is correct, and is a downside of using the skirt guard as opposed to wire guard.
I've been trying to decide between micro inverters or string, however, I have decided to go with String as it is a single failure point instead of 29 failure points for my system. While yes, the whole system will go down, it's also 28 less items that could potentially fail and doesn't require the roof being accessed to fix it. I will be curious to find out how many people with 29 microinverters make it 25 years without an issue with one of them.
... then imagine you want to add more panels after five years but the manufacturer of the micro inverters is no longer around or the micro inverters are no longer compatible...
String just makes more sense - especially with split PV panels equipped with diodes... just perhaps add another MPPT module.
Good things to keep in mind.
Thanks
I didn't see Nevada listed for a solar quote?
That must be a mistake. You can book in another state and put your address in for NV
The wire guard versus the solid pre-fab guard: The wire guard is much better since the air flows under the panels is far better. Heat is loss...
That is correct, and is a downside of using the skirt guard as opposed to wire guard.
the next step will be to buy a new inverter because your old inverter have only 94%
rendement and the new one can have 95 % like that you do not need a ROI calculation
because you never going to make the outcome from it.
what i am reading every time solar is free well with buying this the cost will only go up.
you said this was cheap
Relative to the cost of a solar investment, these add ons can be considered cheap.
Very misleading title!