I'm not really sure why, but I found this extremely interesting. I don't even have a lock I need to install but I still watched this video all the way through.
I agree with all the comments, this guy is truly instructional. The directions that came with the lock are useless. He helped through two spots that could have been bad. Thanks I have been wanting change this lock back a dial for some time.
This video is fantastic! Very professional and explicit. It leaves no margin for error. I can only wish that most how-to videos on CZcams were this well done. God save us from the amateur who is trying figure it out as he films. ~JSmith
Just installed one of those on a safe today , follow his instructions and you won’t have any problems, the written instructions were not bad ,but he shows an easier way to set the combination .
I have been trying to set the combination on a new 6700 series lock for a couple of frustrating days. The printed instructions are just flat out wrong. I found this video and on my first attempt I set the combination. Very good video.
Excellent instructions thank you. I just converted my S&G electronic keypad lock to this mechanical dial lock. I had no problems with the switch and setting the new combination thanks to your video.
This video gave me the clue as to why my safe was opening about every 6 or 7 attempts. Turns out two of my numbers were on the upper end (or off the upper end in one case) of the +/- 1 number tolerance. I was able to find the middle of each number with multiple trial and error tests. I readjusted two of my numbers to be in the center of this allowed tolerance. The safe opens every time now!
Just replaced a damaged lock on my safe with an S&G 6730-100. This video was amazing and everything went perfectly. Thank you so much for posting this instructional.
This is an outstanding video. Very clear and professionally done! I am replacing the electronic locks on two gun safes with the S&G 6730. This video made it a simple task.
Thank you! I used your instructions to replace a digital lock and keypad with an S&G 6730-112 combo lock. The S&G has a very solid feel to it, dial rotation is VERY smooth, its batteries never go dead and its ribbon cable won't short out.
I’ve watched this video about six times just because the gentleman explains it so well and speaks clearly and concisely. He should be a professional voice person. I may just change my electronic lock just so I can watch it again and perform the same tasks. Very well made video.
Thank you very much! If anyone watching this has the Tractor Supply black Friday Cannon safe with the POS NL electronic lock, do yourself a solid and get this lock. You do not need to pay a locksmith! Easy swap. After using the change key and setting your combo, turn the dial slowly right to unlock. Maybe it was covered and I somehow missed it, who knows but I thought it wasn't working. I thought my handles did that. My safe had holes for face plate but they weren't threaded. No big deal, I tapped them with a 10-24 tap and ran 2 screws that size, which is a little bigger than what was supplied. I'd also like to add that Cannon is the worst company I've ever dealt with. Customer service is piss poor. The NL electronic lock is the single worst item I have ever had the displeasure of owning. I award them no points and may God have mercy on their souls.
Looking to build my own gun safe and have been looking at how to build the locking mechanism. Welding a metal box is the easy part. Thanks for the help.
I always wondered how locks were set after install. How do your locks stand the test of time or do rely on the safe manufacturer to design a door that prevents access to the tumblers?
If you have a Cannon Scout 24 or 42 Gun Safe you're going to be in for a Huge Pain In The Arse. It's like Cannon made these purposely so you can't get away from the Electric Lock, but it is doable if you don't mind the dial behind the lever. A Grinder, Carbide Drill Bits, and a Engineering Degree with a Machinist Background is definitely a must.
Even though my safe is not an anti-Liberty I'm changing the electronic lock to an S&G mechanical. Better "safe" than sorry. EDIT: I followed this video and installation was straightforward. I didn't have the alignment tool so I had to just keep nudging it back and forth until the dial spun freely.
What's the purpose of the four slots in the drive cam? If you put the spline key in at a wrong slot it would just change your code but this could be fixed with changing it later. Also the hundred numbers are dividable by 4. So also no trouble with fractions of a number.
Manufacturers can make the door of safes 3-4 times stronger by beefing up the steel where the door bolts retract in and out from. Instead of using the thin metal inside even though ones safe door may have a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch plate steel on the front use 1/4 to 1/2 inch steel within the door bolts frame where they retract from, that way if one is actually getting a pry started, the bolts won't bend the thinner metal that the bolts are housed in or retract from. I know most attacks are from the sides and not the door, though imagine the PEACE OF MIND with that added steel within the door.
I guess you can use the brass spindle instead of the dial ring alignment tool or just make your own. I'm going to use a threaded rod, nuts and washers and make my own. The spacers he uses must have an exact outside dimension, so I'll just use washers and nuts and just center everything.
Excellent video, was able to get my lock installed on the first go. I do have a question, after my last number, when I turn the dial to the right to hit the stop before opening the lock, it doesn't stop at 90, but rather at 50. Have I done something wrong here?
I know this is way late, but I would check if you put the spline key in the correct orientation. 10:59 in the video. Sounds like you have it one off to me.
I had a situation where someone got my combination. So I bought a key and changed it,.... then about 6 months later I went on vacation,....... and when I returned it would not open? It looked like it was beat with a rubber hammer. About 3 months later I got it to open. Liberty sent me a replacement,...It didn't install right it felt wrong no matter what I did? And it would only turn about 1 turn and stop? So I Bought a Sargent&Greenleaf off Ebay,...it was worse and wouldn't work. It acted like it was bent? but it was the same one off the other one. So 2 turned wonky tight loose sloppy,... and you put the original one on,... and it was smooth as ball bearings,...it just don't open I also noticed the lock housing were hard to install becauce the housing bolt patterns were kind of tight and cocked the housing a little. So the original was better than the new ones. No matter what I did they did not turn smooth...but the original did.
Excellent information. Is it neccessary everytime after the last number entered, to turn the dial clockwise 7 to 12 digits until dial stops to be able to open the safe??
In the video the part with the hex/Allen key describes how to reset the wheels when the combination is not known. The big danger in these types of locks is rotating the change key when it is not fully through all the cams as some of the clutches may remain unlocked. This is why it is important to only use the change key with the cover on and make sure the flag goes all the way in. A competent locksmith should be able to realign the cam clutches if they are out of synchronisation but a replacement used lock may be cheaper. I worked out the problem I caused and how to fix it after working on my first ever dial combination lock for a hour without help from the internet so it can be done if no parts are bent or damaged.
I have an older Herring- Hall- Marvin safe about waist high with a S & G combo lock I have had the safe for years, and this fat kid about 13 was pulling up on the handel in my pool room and now my combo is now working right at all, like one time you can turn the dial to where the fence will fall into it's notch on the wheel and let's say that's 27 right we'll the next time you try it it may line up to 43, all 3 do this, I have never had problems with my safe til now.... that safe is needed to store strong pain meds in, sure need some help with this problem, thank you very much, jeff
The best thing about mechanical combo locks is there is no ''back door'' to the lock or battery's. Unlick digital locks most of which have a built in factory code.
Hope you may have a quick answer to a question when trying to change my combo the dial stops before i can make the proper rotations. Any help is appreciated
The pin on the relock bolt I think has broken off my safe. I can unlock the lock and go 5 past zero on the right fourth turn, which means the lever fence has dropped in the drive cam gates, the lever nose engaged to lift the primary lock bolt. But the main safe door bolts still can not be turned and remained locked, indicating to me that the relock bolt has deployed, locking the main bolt cam. So what do I do? Blow torch? This does not appear to be a problem a locksmith can handle.
Not sure what lock you have but it doesn't sound like the lock bolt is fully retracting. If so it could be that the internal lock case relocker has fired due to loose lock case cover screws. Try smacking the safe door outside the dial ring area with a dead blow hammer while trying to gently turn the dial further to completely retract the lock bolt.
My rocker arm seems to stick this looks complicated to change the everything is it possible the spring is weak or is it supposed to stick . I got this with property and it was apart I figured out combo but seems like might want some with right tools to replace it before I put anything inside
@@sargentandgreenleaf1 you have to decide in what position you insert the spline, does this depends which way the locking bar moves versus position of the opening index line on the dial backing plate.
@@StagArmslower The spline location is selected to locate the third number forbidden zone close to zero so you can safely avoid it. It is always assumed that your index pointer is UP on the door. In a floor safe you need to visualise the relationship with the index pointer and the lock alignment as if the index pointer was facing UP to pick the correct spline slot.
And no one has a video explaining the direction the lock is in. Is it based off looking at the back of the lock or the position it would be if you were looking at the door. Up and down is a no brainer. Because I did all the steps perfectly but when I try to change my combination it doesn't work
I have a loose screw that holds the dial ring in place, anyone know if I can reverse this sequence without worry of screwing up combo or locking myself out?
So if I have lost my combination...and I have access to the back of my door...I can manually move the mechanisms inside the lock to accept the change key...and start all over?
Some safes have a frangible glass relocker but this is rare and usually for very valuable items (expensive safe) . Such a relocker CAN be damaged by very rough handling.
Even though it is conventional to begin dialing to the right for the first number -- shouldn't it be true that one other working combination will exist that begins in the opposite direction?
On these locks the plunger is retracted when turning clockwise/right and the cam gates all have to be aligned before that. So for a 3 wheel lock you get L-R-L-R and a 4 wheel lock it would be R-L-R-L-R .
The vast majority of this video is in line with the provided instructions in the box. Where the two part ways is in the "programming" of the lock combination. I've gotten to the combination set part and have been stuck here for hours. I've done everything the video has instructed and the lock "bar" will still not release, no matter what combination I try to choose. Lining up the dics or "wheels" inside the lock is paramount to insert the change key. Following the written instructions makes this impossible. I'm at a point where I will have to leave my safe unsecured with THOUSANDS of dollars of firearms and materials inside.
You don't have the change key turned properly. Usually happens when you try to change the combination the back of the lock off.... Or the change key hole on one of the wheels if not in alignment with the others which means that while 2 of the wheel are in combo changing mode one is turned in the other direction.....again, usually done when the back is off...
RH, VD, VU, LH do not Refer to Right Hand or Left Hand. RH stands for Right Horizontal and not Right Hand. Also, S&G refers to this lock as a gravity assist, drop cam lock; mounting it VD (Vertical Down) eliminates the gravity feature and relies totally on the drop lever spring. I cannot believe you work for S&G.
S&Gs own literature calls it right hand and left hand. Also if it were not designed to be used in this situation why would it have the capacity to be set up for this situation. I think you might want to go and do some more reading.
@@Gegs12 well the literature was obviously re-written by a tech who was a moron. My direct trainer was the engineer that designed the current group ll lock at S&G Right Horizontal or Left Horizontal refers to the lock bolt position just as Vertical Up and Vertical down do. Right hand or Left hand refers to the hinge location of the safe. As a trained lock manipulator who has opened over 100 group ll locks, I think my reading is up to date. You might want to read a bit more yourself.
Kevin Callahan so I’m supposed to reject 2 independent sources, because your trainer said horizontal? I’m not going to do that. If you can find some s&g literature that says horizontal and argues that Right hand and left hand are wrong then sure. But I suspect that there isn’t and given that other lock manufacturers such as Chubb sometimes do away with the H completely and just have R & L on the wheel I suspect that it doesn’t matter and you’re just trying to gatekeep.
@@Gegs12 I don't give a rip what you do; Learn or don't learn; I could care less. But ask yourself why VU stands for 'Vertical Up' ? Why are they using 'Vertical and not just 'Up"? If its really Right Hand and Left Hand then they certainly could just use Up or Down; much simpler.
@@irishplayerkc there's no need to get so emotional about it. It's just a lock. But funny you should mention the VU and VD, because there are some locks ( again by chubb) that only have U and D on them so it seems very much like it, in fact, doesn't matter. And again that you are just trying to gatekeep. But let me ask you this, why would it be "vertical up/down" and then "Right/left horizontal" and not "horizontal right/left" .... because if it mattered that much surely they would want to reduce the ambiguity. Except that again, I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter.
I'm not really sure why, but I found this extremely interesting. I don't even have a lock I need to install but I still watched this video all the way through.
This was one of the best instructional video I have seen. Compliments to the person showing the installation. He spoke very distinctly and clearly. 👍👍
I agree. He is so good, he should be a teacher at a college or university with his communication skills.
I agree with all the comments, this guy is truly instructional. The directions that came with the lock are useless. He helped through two spots that could have been bad. Thanks I have been wanting change this lock back a dial for some time.
Fantastic video. Extremely thorough, yet doesn't drone on unnecessarily.
Perfect presentation. Helped me install new lock after experiencing some issues. Wish all help videos were done this thoroughly. Thanks
This video is fantastic! Very professional and explicit. It leaves no margin for error. I can only wish that most how-to videos on CZcams were this well done. God save us from the amateur who is trying figure it out as he films.
~JSmith
This video was perfect. I watched it a few times and just paused it as I completed the steps. Nice job making this and explaining the steps!
Just installed one of those on a safe today , follow his instructions and you won’t have any problems, the written instructions were not bad ,but he shows an easier way to set the combination .
Was having issues with lock so I followed your instructions & reset combination.
Works like a charm!
Thanks so much
Very well made video. Could not ask for a better tutorial for this task. BRAVO ZULU.
I have been trying to set the combination on a new 6700 series lock for a couple of frustrating days.
The printed instructions are just flat out wrong.
I found this video and on my first attempt I set the combination.
Very good video.
Excellent instructions thank you. I just converted my S&G electronic keypad lock to this mechanical dial lock. I had no problems with the switch and setting the new combination thanks to your video.
This video gave me the clue as to why my safe was opening about every 6 or 7 attempts. Turns out two of my numbers were on the upper end (or off the upper end in one case) of the +/- 1 number tolerance. I was able to find the middle of each number with multiple trial and error tests. I readjusted two of my numbers to be in the center of this allowed tolerance. The safe opens every time now!
Same issue
Just replaced a damaged lock on my safe with an S&G 6730-100. This video was amazing and everything went perfectly. Thank you so much for posting this instructional.
This is an outstanding video. Very clear and professionally done! I am replacing the electronic locks on two gun safes with the S&G 6730. This video made it a simple task.
I need a change key mine change the combo by its self is there any way you can send me one
Thank you! I used your instructions to replace a digital lock and keypad with an S&G 6730-112 combo lock. The S&G has a very solid feel to it, dial rotation is VERY smooth, its batteries never go dead and its ribbon cable won't short out.
Superb video! Thank you for sharing your substantial expertise...couldn't have swapped out my safe lock without this video.
Wow, excellent tutorial. Couldn't ask for a better one.
What an awesome video. Followed his instructions, everything worked perfectly the first time.
I’ve watched this video about six times just because the gentleman explains it so well and speaks clearly and concisely. He should be a professional voice person. I may just change my electronic lock just so I can watch it again and perform the same tasks. Very well made video.
Time to watch this video again a year later. I'm going to change my electronic lock with a S&G
That is an excellent presentation. Well spoken, with very clear directions.
Most thorough video ever!! Thanks.
Thank you very much! If anyone watching this has the Tractor Supply black Friday Cannon safe with the POS NL electronic lock, do yourself a solid and get this lock. You do not need to pay a locksmith! Easy swap. After using the change key and setting your combo, turn the dial slowly right to unlock. Maybe it was covered and I somehow missed it, who knows but I thought it wasn't working. I thought my handles did that. My safe had holes for face plate but they weren't threaded. No big deal, I tapped them with a 10-24 tap and ran 2 screws that size, which is a little bigger than what was supplied. I'd also like to add that Cannon is the worst company I've ever dealt with. Customer service is piss poor. The NL electronic lock is the single worst item I have ever had the displeasure of owning. I award them no points and may God have mercy on their souls.
What a precisely done video. Great job! Thank you sir ! 🙏💕
The best video on this subject. Well done. Thanks.
I agree with JB, thanks for doing this video. My installation was a breeze with your tutorial.
Great instructions I just converted my electronic safe to mechanical today and went very easy although it was scary at the same time. Thank You
How to remove spline key from lock please advice
It deforms when you hit it in but you should be able to just pull it out
Looking to build my own gun safe and have been looking at how to build the locking mechanism. Welding a metal box is the easy part. Thanks for the help.
Perfectly presented tutor video which I found very interesting. Many Thanks.
Excellent video. Thanks. Changed out a 6120 that failed with the 6730 as shown
switching a lock at USPS. this is the video i needed to see to confirm i can do... easy...
Outstanding presentation! Thank You.
I love this guy. Best presentor I ever heard.
Excellent instructional video. Well presented.
THIS IS PERFECT!!! Thank you.
I watch this video when ever I can’t fall asleep
😂
Excellent tutorial...Thanks!
fantastic job explaining thank you
Great vid. Very informative.
great explanation and demonstration
Excellent: Clear & Concise
Brian Costley is my favorite locksmith
I always wondered how locks were set after install. How do your locks stand the test of time or do rely on the safe manufacturer to design a door that prevents access to the tumblers?
Excellent video!
Great video. Thanks for the information.
great vid
Well Done, Great Video ,.........Thank You
Awesome video.
Great Video! Thank you!
If you have a Cannon Scout 24 or 42 Gun Safe you're going to be in for a Huge Pain In The Arse. It's like Cannon made these purposely so you can't get away from the Electric Lock, but it is doable if you don't mind the dial behind the lever. A Grinder, Carbide Drill Bits, and a Engineering Degree with a Machinist Background is definitely a must.
Like your style!
Thanks for the great video
Even though my safe is not an anti-Liberty I'm changing the electronic lock to an S&G mechanical. Better "safe" than sorry. EDIT: I followed this video and installation was straightforward. I didn't have the alignment tool so I had to just keep nudging it back and forth until the dial spun freely.
What's the purpose of the four slots in the drive cam? If you put the spline key in at a wrong slot it would just change your code but this could be fixed with changing it later. Also the hundred numbers are dividable by 4. So also no trouble with fractions of a number.
What was terrible about it? It was very informative and well done.
Manufacturers can make the door of safes 3-4 times stronger by beefing up the steel where the door bolts retract in and out from. Instead of using the thin metal inside even though ones safe door may have a 1/4 inch or 1/2 inch plate steel on the front use 1/4 to 1/2 inch steel within the door bolts frame where they retract from, that way if one is actually getting a pry started, the bolts won't bend the thinner metal that the bolts are housed in or retract from. I know most attacks are from the sides and not the door, though imagine the PEACE OF MIND with that added steel within the door.
OMG! I watched the video again and this guy has to be Dr. Bill Williams Chief Meteorologist on the radio!
zash He’s a different person. He gives his name, Brian Costley.
@@CrazyPetez The people that hear Dr. Bill Williams' voice on the radio would have understood my comment.
Dude DEFINITELY sounds EXACTLY dead serious like Doctor Bill Williams, the chief meteorologist on the radio! I wonder if it is really him!
Great video.. thanks
I guess you can use the brass spindle instead of the dial ring alignment tool or just make your own. I'm going to use a threaded rod, nuts and washers and make my own. The spacers he uses must have an exact outside dimension, so I'll just use washers and nuts and just center everything.
Excellent video, was able to get my lock installed on the first go. I do have a question, after my last number, when I turn the dial to the right to hit the stop before opening the lock, it doesn't stop at 90, but rather at 50. Have I done something wrong here?
Additionally, it is repeatable. It opens every time the same way and did pass the high and low tests.
I know this is way late, but I would check if you put the spline key in the correct orientation. 10:59 in the video. Sounds like you have it one off to me.
I had a situation where someone got my combination.
So I bought a key and changed it,.... then about 6 months later I went on vacation,....... and when I returned it would not open?
It looked like it was beat with a rubber hammer.
About 3 months later I got it to open.
Liberty sent me a replacement,...It didn't install right it felt wrong no matter what I did? And it would only turn about 1 turn and stop?
So I Bought a Sargent&Greenleaf off Ebay,...it was worse and wouldn't work.
It acted like it was bent? but it was the same one off the other one.
So 2 turned wonky tight loose sloppy,... and you put the original one on,... and it was smooth as ball bearings,...it just don't open
I also noticed the lock housing were hard to install becauce the housing bolt patterns were kind of tight and cocked the housing a little.
So the original was better than the new ones.
No matter what I did they did not turn smooth...but the original did.
Excellent information. Is it neccessary everytime after the last number entered, to turn the dial clockwise 7 to 12 digits until dial stops to be able to open the safe??
Yes, to retract the lock
Thanks! Mine is so stiff its hard to turn especially for about 1/3 of the rotation either direction. Is this normal?
followed instructions but cant get the change key notch pass the cover. pretty sure everything is aligned properly, any ideas.
In the video the part with the hex/Allen key describes how to reset the wheels when the combination is not known.
The big danger in these types of locks is rotating the change key when it is not fully through all the cams as some of the clutches may remain unlocked. This is why it is important to only use the change key with the cover on and make sure the flag goes all the way in. A competent locksmith should be able to realign the cam clutches if they are out of synchronisation but a replacement used lock may be cheaper.
I worked out the problem I caused and how to fix it after working on my first ever dial combination lock for a hour without help from the internet so it can be done if no parts are bent or damaged.
I have an older Herring- Hall- Marvin safe about waist high with a S & G combo lock I have had the safe for years, and this fat kid about 13 was pulling up on the handel in my pool room and now my combo is now working right at all, like one time you can turn the dial to where the fence will fall into it's notch on the wheel and let's say that's 27 right we'll the next time you try it it may line up to 43, all 3 do this, I have never had problems with my safe til now.... that safe is needed to store strong pain meds in, sure need some help with this problem, thank you very much, jeff
Hello, Great video. One question, does the 6730 come with the dial ring alignment tool? Or do I need to purchase one separately?
Separately. You dont need it. Its a one time use tool, basically.....for $100.00.
The best thing about mechanical combo locks is there is no ''back door'' to the lock or battery's. Unlick digital locks most of which have a built in factory code.
Is it possible to install this on horizontal flat surface? I mean when you open the door by lifting if from horizontal flat position?
Yes. Select the spline location by visualising the dial index in the UP position when determining the lock orientation.
Hope you may have a quick answer to a question when trying to change my combo the dial stops before i can make the proper rotations. Any help is appreciated
Hy , do you get the enswer sir ? Because i experiencing now the same issue like you ,an idea will be appreciate
The pin on the relock bolt I think has broken off my safe. I can unlock the lock and go 5 past zero on the right fourth turn, which means the lever fence has dropped in the drive cam gates, the lever nose engaged to lift the primary lock bolt. But the main safe door bolts still can not be turned and remained locked, indicating to me that the relock bolt has deployed, locking the main bolt cam. So what do I do? Blow torch? This does not appear to be a problem a locksmith can handle.
Not sure what lock you have but it doesn't sound like the lock bolt is fully retracting. If so it could be that the internal lock case relocker has fired due to loose lock case cover screws. Try smacking the safe door outside the dial ring area with a dead blow hammer while trying to gently turn the dial further to completely retract the lock bolt.
What do ya do when combo dial jams up with changing key inserted and will only move half way around either way
One of the cam clutches is probably closed when it should be open. It takes a lot of deep thought or a visit to a locksmith to get it sorted out.
My rocker arm seems to stick this looks complicated to change the everything is it possible the spring is weak or is it supposed to stick . I got this with property and it was apart I figured out combo but seems like might want some with right tools to replace it before I put anything inside
It brass lever you mentioned at the end sticks and won’t drop some times it will buts not likely will do it again
👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Which position of the spline key I should pick up if the lock is in flat position, like in the floor safe
Stag, I am not sure what you mean by "flat." The lock can only be mounted VD, VU, LH and RH.
@@sargentandgreenleaf1 you have to decide in what position you insert the spline, does this depends which way the locking bar moves versus position of the opening index line on the dial backing plate.
@@StagArmslower The spline location is selected to locate the third number forbidden zone close to zero so you can safely avoid it. It is always assumed that your index pointer is UP on the door. In a floor safe you need to visualise the relationship with the index pointer and the lock alignment as if the index pointer was facing UP to pick the correct spline slot.
Hello, don't worry, what is the function of that rod that is stretched from the tongue bed to the non-moving tongues, thank you
And no one has a video explaining the direction the lock is in. Is it based off looking at the back of the lock or the position it would be if you were looking at the door. Up and down is a no brainer. Because I did all the steps perfectly but when I try to change my combination it doesn't work
I have a loose screw that holds the dial ring in place, anyone know if I can reverse this sequence without worry of screwing up combo or locking myself out?
When you put the lock back together use a new spline key. Do not pull the old one out and attempt to re-use it.
Where do I get those nice Vice-grip BN6 from?
Any big box store like Lowe’s, harbor freight, Home Depot ect. It’s just vice grips
Use this to install a dial lock that replaced a pos keypad. Video was great but I think I screwed the dial in too tight.
I can't get the change key to insert all the way at the step of a new install and combination. What could be my error?
I am having the same problem with change key.
Most likely incorrect combination tried or incorrect index pointer used.
Ring isn't hitting my dial. My dial shaft arrived new in box slightly bent
Just make damn sure your relock plate is installed before using your safe. Other wise you will be permanently locked out!!
service1956 great information...was attempting to install new sg dial lock...
service1956 please Request you kindly sent details of mechanical combination LOCKS details email to nma.govindaraj@gmail.com
So if I have lost my combination...and I have access to the back of my door...I can manually move the mechanisms inside the lock to accept the change key...and start all over?
Adventure Dad yes you can do it is easy
Check the video at this point czcams.com/video/mjmLG8tNfWQ/video.html
Can a re lock accidentally be set off if the safe is moved laying down?
SC, Are you referencing the lock's relocker or the Safe's relocker?
sargentandgreenleaf1 Yes it's the safe's relocker
I would check with the safe manufacturer on the proper moving process. You may want to remove the relocker until you get the safe moved.
Some safes have a frangible glass relocker but this is rare and usually for very valuable items (expensive safe) . Such a relocker CAN be damaged by very rough handling.
I just don’t know if I’ve been drinking if I can even open the damn thing
How can I remove spline key from the lock
I would have set the number to 28, 76 34 - but that's just me.
Anyone have a link to that dial ring alignment tool?
Do the 3 wheel and 4 wheel S&G combo locks use the same change key?
Good information here silversalesusa.com/pdfs/usps.pdf and manuals.chudov.com/Sargeant-and-Greenleaf-Mechanical-Locks-Guide.pdf
18:38 Rules for a good combo... for future reference
I followed to a tee, my failed digital is now dial operated.
Even though it is conventional to begin dialing to the right for the first number -- shouldn't it be true that one other working combination will exist that begins in the opposite direction?
On these locks the plunger is retracted when turning clockwise/right and the cam gates all have to be aligned before that. So for a 3 wheel lock you get L-R-L-R and a 4 wheel lock it would be R-L-R-L-R .
The vast majority of this video is in line with the provided instructions in the box. Where the two part ways is in the "programming" of the lock combination. I've gotten to the combination set part and have been stuck here for hours. I've done everything the video has instructed and the lock "bar" will still not release, no matter what combination I try to choose.
Lining up the dics or "wheels" inside the lock is paramount to insert the change key. Following the written instructions makes this impossible. I'm at a point where I will have to leave my safe unsecured with THOUSANDS of dollars of firearms and materials inside.
My spidle was ever so slightly bent
online buy Prise ?
Prakash,
You can purchase this lock at www.sglockshop.com/en-US/p-model-6730-kit/7500908
You don't have the change key turned properly. Usually happens when you try to change the combination the back of the lock off....
Or the change key hole on one of the wheels if not in alignment with the others which means that while 2 of the wheel are in combo changing mode one is turned in the other direction.....again, usually done when the back is off...
RH, VD, VU, LH do not Refer to Right Hand or Left Hand. RH stands for Right Horizontal and not Right Hand. Also, S&G refers to this lock as a gravity assist, drop cam lock; mounting it VD (Vertical Down) eliminates the gravity feature and relies totally on the drop lever spring. I cannot believe you work for S&G.
S&Gs own literature calls it right hand and left hand. Also if it were not designed to be used in this situation why would it have the capacity to be set up for this situation. I think you might want to go and do some more reading.
@@Gegs12 well the literature was obviously re-written by a tech who was a moron. My direct trainer was the engineer that designed the current group ll lock at S&G Right Horizontal or Left Horizontal refers to the lock bolt position just as Vertical Up and Vertical down do. Right hand or Left hand refers to the hinge location of the safe. As a trained lock manipulator who has opened over 100 group ll locks, I think my reading is up to date. You might want to read a bit more yourself.
Kevin Callahan so I’m supposed to reject 2 independent sources, because your trainer said horizontal? I’m not going to do that. If you can find some s&g literature that says horizontal and argues that Right hand and left hand are wrong then sure. But I suspect that there isn’t and given that other lock manufacturers such as Chubb sometimes do away with the H completely and just have R & L on the wheel I suspect that it doesn’t matter and you’re just trying to gatekeep.
@@Gegs12 I don't give a rip what you do; Learn or don't learn; I could care less. But ask yourself why VU stands for 'Vertical Up' ? Why are they using 'Vertical and not just 'Up"? If its really Right Hand and Left Hand then they certainly could just use Up or Down; much simpler.
@@irishplayerkc there's no need to get so emotional about it. It's just a lock. But funny you should mention the VU and VD, because there are some locks ( again by chubb) that only have U and D on them so it seems very much like it, in fact, doesn't matter. And again that you are just trying to gatekeep. But let me ask you this, why would it be "vertical up/down" and then "Right/left horizontal" and not "horizontal right/left" .... because if it mattered that much surely they would want to reduce the ambiguity. Except that again, I'm pretty sure it doesn't matter.
Apparently, your URL has changed...
EW 2012
??
A crappy safe like this , takes me less than 15 min to open...without combination, brute force or special tools.
+Kalle Klæp this is a demo safe, the cheap crap made in china, looks like a mesa safe