First off...Thank you Brother for your time...knowledge and dedication. And to share it is a gift...I just started restoring/researching old school tool and lumber industry...especially the hand cutting tools...crosscutz...AXES...And you ARE the most informative..educational and have solid facts . Excellent demonstration and camera work. You have saved me alot of time and headaches...Much Respect from St Petersburg Florida
Awesome video Kevin !!! I’d love to give this a try, but my woods behind the house doesn’t seem to have the best handle timber. I really like how you show how much wood gets wasted, I don’t think people realize how much gets waster for premium grain handles !! Dang man awesome planer and joiner, really nice wood shop 👍 can’t wait to see what beauties come of these blanks 🙌
That particular elm looks like it has nice wide growth rings with lots of late wood, which bodes well! Certainly wider than I had in my elm handle that broke.
I love this vid! Watching while having smoko at work in some bush. Awesome! On ripping with a saw, I've found when ripping 6ft fence posts over the years, that inserting the tip to required depth (shaddup 8th grade you) then holding the saw at 20-30° to the log during the pull gives the cleanest and straightest cut. That elm seems so similar to gum. Out of curiosity did you happen to weigh the finished billets? The last ironbark billets I made were about 4kg from memory. Also handy to know the weight to gauge moisture loss. Can't wait to see the end results!
@@KevinsDisobedience I realised after I commented that what I said mightn't work for actually ripping a log in half top-to-bottom. With fence posts, they're usually 6 inches thick (you rip the sides of the posts then split them off the log core with wedges) so with a say 20 inch bar you can hold it at that angle. To half a log the diameter you started with using that technique you'd probably need a 40 inch bar- bugger that! I'll see if I can link a vid
I'd love to hear an update in a couple weeks on how the billets are drying. I have had terrible issues with drying lumber too quickly and getting severe cracking. With oaks I have to seal the entire faces perpendicular to the lines of medulary rays. Or I have to keep them tight together. It takes months and months for my timber to be dry enough to stop worrying about it. Usually the cracking happens very quick unless I change something before 4 months or so.
@@earthsciteach yes, I use wood glue. Usually more than 1 coat. It's just not enough sometimes in the low relative humidity environment I stack my drying lumber in. The way I seal oaks sometimes is the same as keeping bark on but both sides instead of just outside sapwood.
@@KevinsDisobedience Yes, you can! Watching some of Buckins Videos about that topic may help a bit? Same with the Tinman or Ironhorse. I do just little mods. Removing the cat and opening up the outlet helps the saw rewing better and run cooler means lasting longer.
@@KevinsDisobedience There was a lot of work invested in this production I appreciate. Can't wait to see the finished products when the billets are seasoned. There is pride and satisfaction waiting at the end.
Just using what I have and a little common sense, but yeah I’ve poured and finished many yards of concrete. These days though I do a lot more drywall and plaster finishing. Plaster is essential concrete on walls and ceilings. No difference really, just have to add more glue to the mix for adhesion.
Kevin, good video. Check out East Coast Lumberjack's channel. He's been making handles by hand for 30 years and it shows big time. His channel is small, should grow if he got a shout out. I've been following you for about a year, good stuff. Look forward to your next offering. Best regards, Chris
Thanks for the tip - I am now subbed too. - Rod has a wealth of knowledge and experience, and the ability to get the info across clearly. I agree, he should have way more subscribers than he has - spread the word !
@@KevinsDisobedience 7/32 file on a 3/8 (.375) chain is industry standard. 3/16 is used on .325 chains. It appeared to my old aging blind eyes you were filing a .325 chain.
Freehand milling is a gateway to wonderful things. That’s beautiful elm.
Got the Alaska mill to put together next
First off...Thank you Brother for your time...knowledge and dedication. And to share it is a gift...I just started restoring/researching old school tool and lumber industry...especially the hand cutting tools...crosscutz...AXES...And you ARE the most informative..educational and have solid facts . Excellent demonstration and camera work. You have saved me alot of time and headaches...Much Respect from St Petersburg Florida
You’re about to go down a very deep and nerdy rabbit hole. Enjoy and glad I could help.
Holy Beetle Crap Kevin, that was great👍🏻😆
Crazy, right, Robin. Boom! Blam! 🥊
Nice work - now you have to battle with impatience till the wood is good and dry - good luck with that !
I got more to mill yet, so give me something to do till then.
Awesome video Kevin !!! I’d love to give this a try, but my woods behind the house doesn’t seem to have the best handle timber. I really like how you show how much wood gets wasted, I don’t think people realize how much gets waster for premium grain handles !! Dang man awesome planer and joiner, really nice wood shop 👍 can’t wait to see what beauties come of these blanks 🙌
Elm really isn’t known as a good handle wood either. Just giving it a try. White oak is decent. You have any of that?
@@KevinsDisobedience 940Joey you live at the end of the serviceberry rainbow; you can make lots of handles!
That particular elm looks like it has nice wide growth rings with lots of late wood, which bodes well! Certainly wider than I had in my elm handle that broke.
Yes, very wide. I was sorry to see yours break, but every tree is different eh.
Super nice looking lumber !
Came out alright, eh?
Looked like a fun project. Cant wait to see some finished handles!
Be a while for that lol.
Good on you for having a go at freehand Kevin. Lover the plainer/thicknesser! Cool when your work tools match your other interests in life!
Twas fun anyway…
I’d call that a success! Curious to see how these turn out when it’s all said and done!
Yep, did two with the grain the wrong way. One on purpose and one by accident. Be a cool experiment to see how long one holds up.
Mat! Where did all your videos go?
@@MattKeevil just taking a break for a little while.
@@MatthewAmsbaugh everything in moderation 👍
I love this vid! Watching while having smoko at work in some bush. Awesome! On ripping with a saw, I've found when ripping 6ft fence posts over the years, that inserting the tip to required depth (shaddup 8th grade you) then holding the saw at 20-30° to the log during the pull gives the cleanest and straightest cut. That elm seems so similar to gum. Out of curiosity did you happen to weigh the finished billets? The last ironbark billets I made were about 4kg from memory. Also handy to know the weight to gauge moisture loss. Can't wait to see the end results!
So you’re saying just plunge all the way through and work through thataway? I didn’t weight them, but I could try.
@@KevinsDisobedience I realised after I commented that what I said mightn't work for actually ripping a log in half top-to-bottom. With fence posts, they're usually 6 inches thick (you rip the sides of the posts then split them off the log core with wedges) so with a say 20 inch bar you can hold it at that angle. To half a log the diameter you started with using that technique you'd probably need a 40 inch bar- bugger that! I'll see if I can link a vid
czcams.com/video/XD15FxHA5Fk/video.html
czcams.com/video/rILXrWcav_Q/video.html
I'd love to hear an update in a couple weeks on how the billets are drying. I have had terrible issues with drying lumber too quickly and getting severe cracking. With oaks I have to seal the entire faces perpendicular to the lines of medulary rays. Or I have to keep them tight together. It takes months and months for my timber to be dry enough to stop worrying about it. Usually the cracking happens very quick unless I change something before 4 months or so.
Have you painted the ends? That really slows the drying process.
@@earthsciteach yes, I use wood glue. Usually more than 1 coat. It's just not enough sometimes in the low relative humidity environment I stack my drying lumber in. The way I seal oaks sometimes is the same as keeping bark on but both sides instead of just outside sapwood.
@@ethicalaxe got ya. I’m sure it’s a very different experience than here on the east coast.
Been two weeks since I shot this vid. So far no cracking. When I planned them, the surface was literally weeping water.
@@earthsciteach yeah, watch till the end. You don’t want to miss the bit bout beetle dung
Merry Christmas to you and your family...Godspeed to all....
Thank you, to you too.
You've some nice billets, there.
Turned out alright
That pieces of wood came out very nicely!
Speaking about Buckin: you def need a muffler mod!!!! ;-)
I’d like one. Is it something I can do myself?
@@KevinsDisobedience Yes, you can! Watching some of Buckins Videos about that topic may help a bit? Same with the Tinman or Ironhorse.
I do just little mods. Removing the cat and opening up the outlet helps the saw rewing better and run cooler means lasting longer.
Thumbs up on this one right from the start I know it's going to be good.
Thank you, hope it lived up to the hype.
@@KevinsDisobedience There was a lot of work invested in this production I appreciate. Can't wait to see the finished products when the billets are seasoned. There is pride and satisfaction waiting at the end.
Nice job! Your quarter sawing set up looks like it was done by a guy who has laid more than a yard or two of concrete haha.
Just using what I have and a little common sense, but yeah I’ve poured and finished many yards of concrete. These days though I do a lot more drywall and plaster finishing. Plaster is essential concrete on walls and ceilings. No difference really, just have to add more glue to the mix for adhesion.
Those are gonna be some awesome handles!! How long do you think they'll take to dry?
At least a year without a kiln. Elm is notorious for holding water.
Kevin, good video. Check out East Coast Lumberjack's channel. He's been making handles by hand for 30 years and it shows big time. His channel is small, should grow if he got a shout out. I've been following you for about a year, good stuff. Look forward to your next offering. Best regards, Chris
Yeah, I’m subbed to his channel. He makes some good handles and clearly knows his shit. Thanks for watching
Thanks for the tip - I am now subbed too. - Rod has a wealth of knowledge and experience, and the ability to get the info across clearly. I agree, he should have way more subscribers than he has - spread the word !
@@bigoldgrizzly can confirm, it's a really good channel! great content and puts it over very well.
I have 3 nice pieces of cherry I need to mill. I need to bug my neighbor to use his chainsaw mill.
Cherry is a gorgeous wood.
Is it too early to place my order for a disobedience axe handle ?
Way too early lol
👋🏻
Mr. Kevin, I turned CC on to confirm what I saw and heard. Did you use a 7/32 file on a .325 pitch chain?
7/32 on a 3/8, .50 chain. What Buckin recommends, eh? I’ve always used 3/16 before.
@@KevinsDisobedience 7/32 file on a 3/8 (.375) chain is industry standard. 3/16 is used on .325 chains. It appeared to my old aging blind eyes you were filing a .325 chain.
That’s right. That’s what’s recommend for this chain. 3/16.
Can’t argue with how it cuts.
New Sub here...Again thanks...
Welcome! I’m always happy to see a new name in the doobly-doo. Cheers
Second
Beetle crap!
Amazing, right!
first?
You beat Killer and Kurt!
@@KevinsDisobedience Those guys were probably out selecting the perfect Christmas gift to give to themselves. Lucky me.
@@brettbrown9814 🤣🤣funny you say that Brett, I found a vintage 6ft crosscut saw a couple days ago...🎅😁
@@kurts64 Go Kurt!