How to Evaluate Almost all Mobility Scooters with a Battery Box
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2016
- We have alot of people calling us with battery problems. So we made a short video on how to test your batteries. The most common thing we hear is "" My batteries are new, but my scooter only goes a short time then stops". Note: batteries are not always the problem.
Genius video telling me exactly what wanted to know, so many thanks. From a qualified electrician of over 40 yrs.
Thanks for the info!!! Helpful.
I own a strider st6 and have just spent £459 on knew batteries the batteries were 6 years old and I noticed that the distance the scooter used to reach it wasnt reaching and then it wouldnt hold its charge the knew batteries are working brilliantly
I have found Midtronics EXP800 conductance/ capacitance battery testers, (which give an actual CCA number), to correlate well with carbon pile results within the same manufacturer's battery model. (And there are good models of testers using this technology that are also good.) In general, carbon pile tests are the best, but the conductance/ capacitance testers will give very consistent results when the right fudge factor using carbon pile results as the reference, is used. Both technologies can be used to match batteries.
If testing an AGM battery that has been on the shelf for a year or more but charge maintained above 12.35V, it may initially test a bit low, but if cycled through two or three carbon pile tests, i.e., high Amp tests for that battery and then charged, the battery will test perhaps 25 percent higher.
love your hair and polished nails
good tips, the pride travler and sport will take upgrade to 2x 22 amp batteries worth doing
Excellent video ! I have the same scooter. My battery wont change my battery display, Have all red buttons and one green. I bought a set of new batteries today and it didn't add any more green lights, I took the batteries back to BATTERIES PLUS found both were BAD !!! I got 2 more from them out of a brand new box (HOPEFULLY), Anyway will charge tonight for a few hours and if no charge THEYRE GOING BACK ! I don't know where to get that fuse ? I hit the reset button. Will find my tester to check my charger/adapter. But do you know where I would find that FUSE and the type ? Thanks I'm rushing to get my scooter working as fast as I can I tore my Achilles tendons and have to get to the doctor Wed. Thanks youre video is great. Also I wonder if my 2 yr old granddaughter who I found messing with the scooter key while it was in the scooter turned off would that have caused a reset problem ?
I'll start out by saying that I know absolutely nothing about batteries, so correct me if I'm wrong. In the video you used a 12 volt load tester to check two batteries wired in series equaling 48 volts. Shouldn't they have been separated so each battery is checked individually? Thank you!!
What kind of battery is in that box is it dry cell,I take mine on the plane and they keep asking me what kind of battery is inside
Good video, but I'm working on an old Zoom 220 that has sat unused for 10-15 years. I replaced the batteries, and the fuse is good. But all it does is "click" in the reset button. The horn beeps, but that's it. Could something have deteriorated in that unused time?
Thank you!
How many times does it beep? Always make sure its in the lock/ drive position. There's a lever that puts the scooter in freewheel. To make sure it's in the correct position shut off the key and see if you can manually push the scooter. If you can then it's not in the drive mode. You should NOT be able to push it. Then turn on the key wait a couple of seconds and see if it works. If not count how many time it beeps and let me know.
@@iLoveMy2010SS Thanks so much for the information.
I meant that the horn button works, + it beeps with the "reverse" lever.
Yes, you can't push when engaged. but the forward lever produces only a click from I guess the circuit breaker, then let the lever go and it "un-clicks". I can only guess that something deteriorated in the many years of disuse. Thank you again.
Hi!
I have a 4 years 48 volts (4 batteries of acid / lead of 12 volts each, I don't know the amperage) Gio electric scooter.
My batteries full charged (53 to 56 volts: 3 full blocks on the screen), I can only make 14 kilometres instead of the usual 50 to 70 kilometres. It's like there's almost no current left. However, the voltage of my batteries is 46 volts (two blocks on the screen) and the lights, the turn signals, the horn and the screen light work.
Is it a batteries problem or other electrical / electronic issue? How do I find the problem myself? I have a multi-meter.
Batteries usually have something written on them that tells you the amperage hours. If yours doesn't I recommend just bringing one of yours to a battery store to find out. If you cant do that, measure it and then look on line at 12 volt acid batteries that are the same size as yours to get a better guess as to the amperage.
Thanks... So the idea is to measure if the amperage is what it is supposed to be when the batteries are good? The voltage could be normal while the amperage is low?
Yes. A battery can fail so the voltage looks OK, but the amperage (current) capacity has failed. A battery meter will report 12 volts, but it still won't move the scooter. The current is what does all the "work" so you won't get any power. This is why a 12 amp/hour battery does not travel as far as an 18 amp/hour battery.
The problem is that it's easy to measure the voltage, but special equipment, strain on the battery, and some safety concerns come up when testing current/amperage capability.
Can you possibly change the title of the Video? "Pride Mobility Go-Go Scooter Battery Problem" to "How to Evaluate the Pride Mobility Go-Go Scooter Battery". The word PROBLEM conveys the manufacturer has issues with their batteries. Thanks for your consideration.
This is the way to check almost any scooter with a battery box from all manufacturer not just Pride.
That battery box is 24 volt. 2×12v wired to give 24 volt. If you don't know what you are talking about, which you don't , then don't give wrong information or advice.
That load tester is meant for automotive batteries with much higher amp/hr capacity, it puts a much higher drain on those type batteries than they're designed for. I bet you sell tons of batteries by damaging customers batteries with it. Also mixing new with used good batteries is no problem unless the electronics of the scooter are so finicky that it can't handle the small differences between them. I worked on cars, heavy trucks and equipment for 40yrs and have never seen a problem because of it. Bad information in the video.
Per the Manufacturer there shouldn't be more than .5 volts difference in the batteries. If you know about batteries you would agree on deep cycle batteries they have to drain at the same level or the old battery will cause the new battery to deplete prematurely. Thanks for your input. Car batteries are different than deep cycle mobility batteries.
Jim Zivn
Stack (or series) Batteries have to be balanced, other wise one would have to be overcharged for the other to charge. This happens internally with the individual lead acid cells anyway, but is not detrimental. But if the whole unit has to overcharge then the electrolyte starts to break down. Unless had a very expensive switch network so one battery can shed and the other charge. Extreme operating conditions and frequent discharge cycles further exacerbate these problems.
Overcharging lead-acid batteries causes the electrolyte water to break into oxygen and hydrogen gas, which depletes electrolyte levels in the batteries. This has two effects. The concentration of the sulfuric acid in the electrolyte increases, which is damaging to the battery plates and reduces battery life. Furthermore, since the electrolyte level has dropped, a portion of the plates are now exposed to air, causing plate oxidation and reducing battery capacity. Sealed lead-acid (SLA) and gel batteries are particularly sensitive to overcharging since any lost water cannot be replaced. Undercharging lead-acid batteries causes plate sulfation in which the sulfuric acid reacts with the plates to form lead sulfate crystals. This reduces the ability of the battery to accept a full charge, and undercharging worsens. This leads to premature battery failure.
Deep-cycle Battery
The deep-cycle battery is built to provide continuous power for wheelchairs, golf cars, forklifts and more. This battery is built for maximum capacity and a reasonably high cycle count. This is achieved by making the lead plates thick . Although the battery is designed for cycling, full discharges still induce stress and the cycle count relates to the depth-of-discharge (DoD). Deep-cycle batteries are marked in Ah or minutes of runtime. The capacity is typically rated as a 5-hour and 20-hour discharge.
I disagree that there is a problem with using the load tester shown, which can do just fine on smaller batteries; where they do have problems are when load testing higher capacity batteries 500 CCA and above. I think this one draws a max 75 or 150A which could fully test a 150 or 300 CCA battery. (300 CCA translates to 150A for 15s @ 9.6V min) Most mobility scooter batteries should handle 75A for 5s without a problem. I test 12V 18Ah batteries on Snap On MT1590 carbon pile tester at 100A for 15s and 12V 38Ah at 300A for 15s without problems. Now if the high Amp testing were repeated quickly, the internal bus bars could melt and from too high of heat. When that happens, sometimes the battery will test at the normal charged potential without load, but open or very low current and low potential with a load.
What a waste of time !
NoNoNo the batteries are not bad, the two sales people are not techs. Dumb devise, they are typical half trained. They might think they are helpful but this video is a fail.
First of all we are CERTIFIED PRIDE MOBILITY TECH'S. We are just showing people who are NOT tech's how to simply check the batteries with out tools. If a scooter works properly and drives fine, but when you hit the throttle the battery indicator drops to red it's a CLEAR sign theres a battery issue. It's possible they could have a bad charger that caused the batteries to go bad. But there's NO doubt it's a bad set of batteries on this scooter. Please refrain from making negative comments if you don't know what your talking about.
How the heck can you blow a motor if the battery is defective. Shes obviously planting the seed to worry folks into thinking the motor will blow. Where did she get her incorrect information from??. Their is absolutely no way a duff low voltage battery will blow a motor. Shame on you both.
Same as in your car...I.E. a low battery voltage can burn out the starter motor. Same if you plug a power tool into an over long extension lead and burn out, say, your electric drill. Same as if your electricity provider or faulty street transformer has a volt drop. Resulting in the destruction of all the running electrical appliances in your house, even your beloved internet modem.
Why is this so ?...Because electricity is governed by strict laws of physics (P = I x V). So if the motor can't find the correct voltage (V) it will then start drawing amps (I), resulting in heat, is a simplified way of looking at it.
Effects of low voltage... When you subject a motor to voltages below the nameplate rating, some of the motor's characteristics will change slightly and others will change dramatically. To drive a fixed mechanical load connected to the shaft, a motor must draw a fixed amount of power from the line. The amount of power the motor draws has a rough correlation to the voltage 2 current (amps). Thus, when voltage gets low, the current must increase to provide the same amount of power. An increase in current is a danger to the motor only if that current exceeds the motor's nameplate current rating. When amps go above the nameplate rating, heat begins to build up in the motor. Without a timely correction, this heat will damage the motor. The more heat and the longer the exposure to it, the more damage to the motor.