Ep. 27 | Empennage Completion | Zenith Super Duty Aircraft Build
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- čas přidán 10. 09. 2024
- Adam from Aeroworks Productions covers the completion of his empennage including a trip to the powder coaters in the latest episode of his Zenith Super Duty build series on CZcams.
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Interesting comment on the heat effects on aluminum. Need to check into that. Thanks !
Adam, what a striking colour.
What a difference the paint / powder coating makes.
I can’t wait to see the rest of the plane.
You certainly are a perfectionist with your build.
Keep up the good work so all us viewers can enjoy your pride and joy.
Thanks for watching!
amazing job🤝😀
Thanks for watching and sweet channel name!
@@AeroworksProductions hahaha. thanks uncle, i really feel at home seeing the videos on your channel amazing for me. & thanks for sharing this great video.👍👍👍👍👍👍👍❤️🙏
My painter used Presta "Scuff Stuff" to prep the aluminum on my 750 STOL. It looks like a rubbing compound and is applied with a gray scuff pad. The advantage is that it easily gets in around the exposed rivet heads and avoids leaving a "halo" of unscuffed material around the periphery of the head. It's water-soluble so it easily washes away for clean-up. Try it, you'll like it!
The powder coat on the flying surfaces is beautiful, tough, and durable,, but it'll be very difficult to touch-up properly if a repair is necessary due to damage or modification - that's why paint is preferable.
Great tips. Yes the majority of the plane will be painted using traditional methods.
Loving how you work (two thumbs up)
Thanks for watching Dave. Hopefully you like and subscribe?
😲Wow Adam I did not know you could use powering on finishing aircraft surfaces. Great video Learned a lot⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️🤘🏻🤠
You have to be careful because typical 400F cure temps are high enough to hurt the heat-treatment of 6061-T6. I personally would stick to powdercoating only the steel parts and painting the aluminum parts. You can powdercoat 6061-T6, (my company does it everyday) but we cure at a lower temps to avoid issues. Powdercoat is definitely more robust than paint and it looks gorgeous in that orange for sure! Love these vids so I don't want to say something to pick a fight. It's just something I've been seeing more of lately and I think it should be mentioned.
How heavy is the powder coat compared to paint? How about touch up if you need to repair a small damage spot?
Have you ever considered what detrimental effect the temperature of powder coating baking/curing has on the fatigue strength or properties of the aircraft grade aluminium ? .. if not, you really should!
Yes contacted manufacturer, the short time and temperature used has no effect. Someone put it this way when I was concerned myself about the heat. We bake a pizza at 450 for 25 minutes just to melt the cheese.
@@AeroworksProductions "No effects" ... really, none? Anyone that compares aircraft materials, metallurgy and structures to baking pizza's, really shouldn't be in the aviation business and certainly not giving out advice to others!
@@simonbaxter8001 If you have information you’d like to share with the others, please do. I’m not the first one to powder coat an airplane part.
@@AeroworksProductions From an old homebuild discussion on the topic:
Powder coatings may damage, or eventually damage, aerospace parts.
1. Cure Temperatures.
MIL-C-24714 allows cure temps of ~400F for ~30 Minutes.
AMS3143 allows cure temps in (2) catagories (no time limit specified]:
Class 1 NO restrictions.
Class 2: 300F [no time specified.
These temperature ranges can affect temper of some 2XXX and most 7XXX aluminums.
2. Coating thickness: Powder coats tend to routinely exceed 0.003" dry-film thickness; wheras production-quality solvent or water-borner primer coats of 0.0006" dry-film thickness are common. In the case of epoxy coatings: LESS is superior to thicker, since flexure of thick coatings causes brittle cracks to open and poor adhesion of any decoratve top coats. Obviously "stiff parts" [forgings, thick extrusions or plate] are far less affected that sheet-metal [in flexure].
3. There are several aother critical issues regarding powder-coating of aerospace parts:
3.1 These temps can cause serious outgassing in porous castings [aluminum or magnesium]; so-much-so that finish quality is poor [blisters, pin-holes, etc. In some cases powder additives can help control these blemishes... but NOT 100%.
3.2 "Old" unsealed magnesium and aluminum castings [+10yrs in service] are subject to low-level moisture intrusion: this can either desrtroy the casting if heated to "moisture steam" point [crack/explode]; or can cause totally unreliable coating quality due to out-gassing.
3.3 Thick/hard/baked coatings are typically VERY difficult to REMOVE [strip-off] using chemical or blast-type stripping methods.
3.3.1 Chemical strippers have to "work" longer and harder to break high-temp cure bonds... especially when very thick. In some cases special strippers would have to be formulated for removal of specifc epoxy powder-coating formulations. In discussions with a paint stripper vendor, I expressed concern regarding removal of finishes on adhesive bonded thin-skinned aluminum-honeycomb parts. I did NOT want the exterior adhesive bond-primer damaged... while stripping thh Polyurethane top-coat and corrosion protective epoxy primer. Vendor assured me that the baked epoxy adhesive bonding primer had MUCH tougher chemistry than the solvent or waterborne corrosion protective primer... and sure-enough [after several tests] we discovered he was correct: the chemical stripping action seemed to "stop" as it hit the baked material.
3.3.2 Media or water blasting of hard resinous surfaces over soft aluminum or magnesium substrates is difficult at best; and very damaging to substrates at worst [media entrapment/contamination in surface, surface hardening and scoring].
What's the weight difference between powder coat vs painting ?
About the same. Really all comes down to application. You could have a painter spray a primer, 2-3 coats of primary color then a clear and it can weigh more than powder coat. You could also have powder coat applied too heavy. So you just have to apply it correctly.
Thanks for your reply, really enjoying your build videos
@@PaulBrown-sv7vm Appreciate you watching.
WOW I just discovered your channel. LOVE the colour of the tail. SaWeeeet project. The Zenith line of aircraft are very cool. I do have a question regarding powder coating vs painting. Why did you choose powder coating vs painting the tail?? Isn't powder coating heavier? I'm guessing it is more durable?
Thanks for watching, hopefully you’ve subscribed as well. I answered a question below about powder coating vs paint weight. Powder coating is more durable however I’m only powder costing the tail. The rest will be painted.
Are you doing everything with powder coating..???? Also have to say looks awesome
Thanks Dan, it would be difficult to powder coat everything as you can’t put parts in the oven that would melt. IE bushings, pitot lines, wiring, etc. some of which had already been run throughout the wings and fuselage. Plan is still to spray fuse and wings.
@@AeroworksProductions bummer would look awesome and last for years.. to bad you couldn't run the wiring after
@@asiasmells71 yeah there are just some things that have to be done first. Also wings and fuse would be pushing the limits of the oven size.
What grade scotch Brite you use for the skin?
amzn.to/3c8nEGV
I guess you don't believe in zinc chromate
Not many people use zinc chromate anymore due to its environmental considerations, other corrosion prevention methods have been used like Cortec however I don’t live in an area where corrosion will be an issue and the plane will always be hangared.
@@AeroworksProductions thanks. I live very close to the gulf of Mexico. I don't know about the environmental concerns, but what won't kill you today.
Some day you might have to treat the metal where it meets. I am building a 750 and a safari 400. Thanks
May i ask your engine choice. I bought a ul 350 for 25,4
Zenith uses 6061T6 which is corrosion-resistant. Lots of Zenith's corrosion-free after years of exposure even when not painted and just left bare-metal! However, most builders use corrosion protection on mating surfaces, especially if in a damp or coastal area.
You probably can't find Zinc Chromate any more, everything now is Zinc Phosphate, which does not stick as good, I have to keep touching mine up as I work on it. rubs off very easily. What I found works better is automotive self etching gray primer.
How heavy is the powder coat compared to paint? How about touch up if you need to repair a small damage spot?
Dry comparable to paint even lighter in some circumstances. As for touch up, it remains to be seen but should be tougher.