New Garage Part 7 - Front Wall & Ceiling Insulation
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- čas přidán 11. 10. 2020
- In Part 7, starts the interior process including installing the front wall R13 insulation, roof vent baffles, and then the ceiling R30 insulation.
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Enjoy watching your work. Something I wished I had done on my garage project was take pictures of the walls prior to adding insulation and drywall. Is handy when you need to understand where electric or plumbing runs are when doing future work.
That crossed my mind, I'm thinking about insulating my garage and while mine doesn't have much for wiring, I did want to snap some photos. Be handy later on.
Dude you are awesome nice job love it
Thanks for the good video 👍
Great music too!
In Norway we always use the paper of the roof insulation the other way, against the cold roof to prevent cold air coming down into the insulation.
I far as I know, paper has no thermal properties. "The paper creates a vapor barrier that helps keep the water vapor in the warm, moist, heated indoor air from migrating outward into the wall or other structure. For this reason, faced insulation is typically installed on the "warm in winter" side of the wall."
askinglot.com/what-is-the-purpose-of-paper-backing-on-insulation
This was a great video, I was afraid of doing it myself and worried I would overpay someone else.
Finally a good garage insulation install video. For some reason I couldn’t figure out the correct baffle install with the batt in the same way you did.
Thank you!
Awesome video, your garage looks just like mine, cept no knee wall, I was thinking of insulating the roof instead of the ceiling, hmm looks like i have to rethink air flow though
Yes, it depends if you have vented eaves, ridge vent, etc.
Thank you for this video. I had to go through a lot of how to videos to find something on insulating a ceiling like this. I knew there had to be some breathing in an attic, but didn't know how to do this until I saw your video.
Question though: I live in the country where there are plenty of bugs or critters. I'm pretty sure my soffits will make it hard for any large creature from getting in, but if I'm wrong, is there a way to prevent them from making nests in the insulation?
The soffit vent holes are pretty small for my garage. For anything that breaks through, I suppose it would be the same situation with any roof structure be it garage or house. I've never had that happen in any of my previous homes, so a pest control company would be the first place to contact.
I live in a more rural area as well. I’ve had an issue with mice, they will get anywhere! I bought from amazon an “ultrasonic pest controllers” they use high pitched frequency to keep them away! Seems to have worked for me I haven’t had any inside my building, as an added protection I heard they don’t like the smell of soap, or laundry dryer sheets. I leave a bar of soap in every corner of my garage and change them out every 3 months or so. Good luck!
@@marcruhland2721 Thanks for the suggestions!
Good video. Would’ve done inside staples on the walls too since you mentioned you’re going to be getting drywall. Your area you live in doesn’t require fire resistance for garages? Usually go to is rock wool for garages or at least walls that are shared with living space.
Nice video, could you please answer this, shouldnt the vapor barrier face the inner wall and the naked insulating mater covered with plastic on the side of the drywall because it is pointing to the exterior of the house, I would really appreciate your answer
There are different variations of this process. Since the exterior wall already has a vapor barrier, it is not necessary to face the paper towards the exterior wall. Some people use non-faced (no paper) insulation and then put plastic on top of that. Depending where you are located, there may be other options. I hope that helps.
When you have to cut around the baffle for the wires, should you insulate or something where the gaps are to prevent the air flow from coming out?
I guess if you really want to make sure, use a HVAC tape to seal around any openings. I didn't think it makes a big difference since insulation is pushing up against the foam baffles.
I’ve been looking to do this but all the rolls I see are about 19” wide and my garage has sections a couple inches wider
At my local Home Depot and Lowes, the common widths are 15" and 23" which follow the common stud spacing of 16" and 24" respectively. If you have odd spacing, you will either have to cut down a wider 24" to fit or combine multiple 15" wide batts to get what you need.
I bought 2 differwnt stud finders. Lol I have a 3 car garage and hunging a 10ft strut rail to hung punching bags rings and a rope on my 8ft ceiling. I think I found joist. They running parallel to garage doors and are 24" apart, however after finding center of each joist they are 1" wide🙄
I tought they were at least 2" wide?? Iam using 3" 3/8 bolts..
My house was built in 2005
Yes that is odd. Most studs/trusses are 1.75” when actually measured. It’s tough when you have to find stuff through drywall.
I have started doing something similar to this and have gone through 2 staplers. They keep getting jammed, which is so annoying. Thinking of getting a pneumatic stapler. Did you have any issues with the hammer stapler getting jammed?
No, I didn’t have any jamming.
Where did the long lights go? Was curious how to deal with the lighting.
I temporarily took them down to install the insulation. Part 8 covers the ceiling drywall. Once drywall was finished, I reinstalled the four 8’ LED lights.
Great video! Just wondering why you used a lower R value insulation for the front wall than you used for the ceiling. Thank you!
It's fairly standard to use different R rating for walls vs ceilings. 2x4 walls are usually R13-15, attic ceilings are R38-R60 in my region. www.jm.com/en/homeowner-insulation/homeowner-faq/what-r-value-do-i-need-
@@MTNRangerwow, thanks so much!! Appreciate the link too!!
How’s the temp in the garage during the winter months? Notice any difference?
It has roughly stayed about 20-25 degrees above outside temps due to the insulation/drywall/slatwall and one of the cars being ICE. I'm looking at adding a mini split heat pump in the Spring. We don't get super cold here, usually the coldest is 20F in winter.
I don't see any vents along my gutters for my garage. Do I still need to use baffle?
Yes, if you don't have soffit vents, then you probably don't need the baffles.
What side does the paper face in Dallas climate
Everything I have seen shows paper face going towards the inside of the building. If you use unfaced insulation, place plastic sheeting over it.
Do you need to add the rafter vents?
The rafter vents aid airflow from the eaves to roof ridge vent. If you don't have those vents then they are not needed.
Curious, why this insulation over blown insulation after drywalling the ceiling?
Since there is no attic access, it has to be done this way.
@@MTNRanger well that makes sense. I didn’t notice that lol
Why no attic access panel?
The roof trusses are so shallow that I didn't find it necessary. I suppose one could be installed after the fact if desired.
I figured insulation went in the roof not the ceiling?
any difference?
In most garages and homes where I am from, the insulation goes in the attic space on top of the ceiling. The roof is open so air can circulate from the eaves to the roof top vents.
How much did the materials cost you? I have a similar size garage that I need to do this too
Here is what I purchased for the ceiling: Johns Manville R-30 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Insulation Batt 24 in. x 48 in. $79.98 x 6 packs = $480. Front wall: Johns Manville R-13 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Insulation Batt 15 in. x 93 in. $54.98. Side and rear walls in next video: Owens Corning R-13 Wall 106.56-sq ft Faced Fiberglass Batt Insulation (15-in W x 93-in L) $25.52 x 5 packs = $127.60. Also a hammer tacker ($38) and a big box of T50 staples ($5).
@@MTNRanger it’s not bad, few hundred dollars and done! Thanks for the reply
How far up do baffles go
The way the baffles are designed is that the folded end is about four inches high. When you push it in where the roof and the joist meet, it will allow air from under the eave to flow over the top of the baffle. Ideally the baffle will end around where the exterior wall starts. Pushing it over the eave would be too far. m.media-amazon.com/images/I/31w5iLzYwNL._AC_.jpg
This is similar to how my garage is currently laid out with half of it insulted and the other half not. Just curious why you didn't insulate every wall? I was about to just start this today actually, but I was only planning on doing one wall at a time and didn't think it was worth it unless I did everything. Plus I haven't ran electrical yet. Plan was to just insulate the walls this year then drywall next year or osb, but I'm not sure if that makes sense. Also, just curious where you are located, or at least if you get sub zero temperatures? I'm in Minnesota USA and keep hearing all different ways to insulate.
You need to watch part 9! czcams.com/video/Aju4grzaKP0/video.html
I'm in NC. As far as weather goes we get between 20F to 100F during the year. Most of the time during winter it is above freezing. My plan is to get a heat pump mini split.
@@MTNRanger Haha I just watched the rest of them. I'm just debating on faced insulation or unfaced then using plastic, but figured it's unneeded. And then what brand to go with. I like the first ones you went with, I'm guessing you had to switch due to supplier or just by choice? I'm pretty sure my garage is identical in size, I haven't quite measured it, so basically I would be doing half of the work you did and I wouldn't have to do anything with windows or doors since we don't have any in our attached garage.
@@urmastertech In my area, paper faced was the most available option. When I did the side and back walls, the insulation I chose happened to be on sale. My garage is 24' Wide x 22' Deep.
Enjoyed your video but I think you have made an error installing your vent baffles. The baffle should be installed so as to allow the ceiling insulation to cover the top plate of the wall. Yours is installed with the "flap" stapled to the inside of the top plate preventing insulation from covering said plate. See your drawing at 4:34 for an explanation. It may not be a big deal in North Carolina but here in Canada it would matter. Just sayin for those that may take on this job themselves. Nice garage.
I see what you are saying. Thanks for you comment.
Where did you get the insulation materials?
Here is what I purchased for the ceiling: Johns Manville R-30 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Insulation Batt 24 in. x 48 in. $79.98 x 6 packs = $480 (Home Depot). Front wall: Johns Manville R-13 Kraft Faced Fiberglass Insulation Batt 15 in. x 93 in. $54.98 (Home Depot).
Side and rear walls in next video: Owens Corning R-13 Wall 106.56-sq ft Faced Fiberglass Batt Insulation (15-in W x 93-in L) $25.52 x 5 packs = $127.60 (Lowes).
What's the likelihood of this becoming a home for infestation?
Like rodents? Hopefully not due to the soffit vents being tiny holes. For bugs, the garage is treated quarterly.
those baffles are nice, but should have been foil material faced
I’ve only seen Durovent and Owens Corning - both polystyrene at the hardware stores. I’ve seen a couple others online that use cardboard. I have not seen any vent baffles that use foil - do you have any links?
@@MTNRanger no, and I am not sure they make any, and it would be something to add additionally, but it would need to face the rafters, so it goes on first. more so for hot climates
Hi
Are you guys in Ottawa
I'm located in Raleigh, NC
I need to do my garage insulation
But I’m confused. On wall after insulation should I put plywood or just drywall please let me know. Thanks
@@kingrahman4172 It depends on what you want as your look. If you want a finished painted wall, drywall is the way to go. If you want a more utilitarian look, go for the plywood. I used drywall since code in my area requires something over the insulation. I probably could have used plywood too since my finished surface is slatwall as seen in the following video.
Why did you waist money on thin Styrofoam to apply it in roof too wall edge ? I did install R-13 into roof to the wall and I'll do drop celing bit for car lift my garage, but last winter in my garage it was 64° with diesel heater I don't understand your guys garage insulation at all
The Styrofoam routes air flow from the eaves to the top of the roof ridge vent. Then the insulation pushes up against the Styrofoam. That's how it is supposed to be installed. See discussion here: www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/ceiling-insulation-is-durovent-necessary.74400/
All that hard work did you at least eat lol
This video took place over several days. I'm sure I ate when I wasn't working!
Lost a lot of space by insulating the ceiling and rather than the roof. I am insulating the roof as I use the ceiling for storing some of my trim and smaller pieces of wood.
Yes, a lot can depend on your situation. I didn’t lose much space since the roof is shallow and I didn’t need to make the space above the insulation for storage. The trusses were not designed to be load bearing. I also have a basement for storing stuff.
You could have cut this clip in a 3rd
Pro tip. You don’t need to show all 25 of the vents being installed.
Pro tip: You can fast forward during any point of the video. Or also just not watch. Just a thought, ya know from another pro CZcams commenter to another 😉