Hey Paul....Looks like your doing a good job with your kit replacement. Wanna hear something funny...I completed the same job, on this exact model...color & everything...3 months ago!! Here's my thought's....1. Stop calling the R134A coolant. Say coolant, people think Antifreeze!! Instead say the 134, or even freon. 2. Once you mount the compressor, very important to leave belt off and Rotate clutch, direction of travel, a good 20 full rotations. Moves the Peg out of the compressor. This will really extend the life. 3. The replacement "brand" can make a big difference. I've done many of these replacements, best success with Four Seasons brand. Solid products. 4. How's your serpintine belt? Looked like it had some wear on top...but, that cld just be the vid. Lastly.....If there's any way you can afford it, replace the condenser at the same time. I buy thru Amazon, A-Premium is the brand...runs between $100 to $150 ish. Already has the dryer attached to it, this makes all the difference. FYI....you Can't really "flush" condensers now a days...the passages are just too tiny...so, replace it!! I've had good success with this brand condenser....but that's all the ac parts I'll get from Amazon. Dang.....I wrote you a book. Lol. These are just tips, Paul....use 'em or don't...your choice. With AC, stick to the basics...Always pull a vacuum for about an hour, always replace the reciever / dryer and if your going by pressures....always factor in the ambient temperature. Congrats on being one of the few that can do this type of job!!!
I also had another question... my wife's jeep was blowing cold air last year, but not as well. This year, i put in some coolant and i thought it was working. But now it just blows hot air. Should i check to see if it's still holding pressure on the lines, and if so, I'm guessing it's the compressor? And if the system is empty, i guess it's just a leak, right? And if it's a leak, does that mean the compressor got ruined too, or i just fix the leak, fill it up and go?
And...Nobody's answering ya!! I will try to give u a bit of direction.... 1. Ac system will blow warm if not enough, but also, too much freon!! What's your Low Side pressure read? Also, I need ambient temp when you take the read. 2. If you have a big leak...Loook for Oil Stain on hoses, front of compressor , any place an ac item bolts together. Does NOT mean the compressor is dead, but if you use old compressor, must put oil in it!! 3. If system is open..a leak...probly be further ahead to replace dryer, comp, expansion valve. That's if your gonna keep the vehicle. Let me know if you need more. Don.
I followed all of the lines and looked all in that area and I didn’t see one, based on my research it seems like it depends on if it is a none off road model that has it.
Yep....that's a touchy question..... If uou have money, take to a shop that can recycle the 134. If you Don't have money....well, man's gotta do something.... Maybe pull out the Low side Schrader Valve, for inspection....and, inspection takes a minute or two. (That's the bike tire valve, under your low pressure cap.)
I love it! A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do! Right? Lol! I've had some strange readings after pulling vacuum in prep for adding refrigerant... i have a set of guages, ok. When i open the knobs that are on the actual guages, the low pressure Guage pegged, as high as it will go. The high pressure Guage reads around midway... can't remember the number, but it was where it was supposed to be. The refrigerant wouldn't even flow in unless i turned the high pressure knob off. What's going on there? Can you tell me? The new compressor is on, there's refrigerant in the system and it seems to work. But I have a feeling something is very wrong. Is my evaporator or condenser clogged up up? Strangely, my truck is doing the exact same thing? I do know that my trucks heater core is blocked. I need to replace that. My truck is 20 years old so i was going to do a new evaporator too while the dang dash is gotten out. I just think it seems a little too coincidental that both vehicles are doing the same thing, showing a pegged low pressure guage when everything is opened up. @donmiller8588
Paul, What you wrote here isn't making sence...or I'm reading it wrong!! Ok...your pulling a vacuum, should have ALL valves open , both valves by gadges, as well as each on high pressure & low pressure line. With vac pump turned on, gages should both be in the Negative, and pegged there! Should not move from that spot!! After an hour, close All Valves, before you turn off pump. Let system sit for 30 mins...if gages move, you have a leak!! Ok, that's the basics or the How it to be done info. I still can't make heads or tails in regards to what your saying....you'd have to bend the laws of Physics to get these results!! There's zero pressure in the system...so how can the high reading be half way?? Low pressure pegged?....there is no pressure to peg with.....so, not possible. Vacuum will make the gages show Negative numbers....Always. Did you try to charge the system a bit prior to evac?? Also....how did your old system Die?? Did the compressor crater?? Did you flush the AC lines and such, Prior to putting on Any New Parts??
Paul, one more thing.....your NOT saying that you opened up both valves when trying to charge the system...right?? Only open low valve to fill system, high stays closed. Only opens during evac....that's all!! Look at your compressor CLUTCH, while your running the system....is it engaged and spinning? Are you Positive the clutch is engaged?? It's easy to see wrong in cramped space!! If your compressor clutch is Not engaging....and your trying to add 134....it would peg the gadge.
Hey Paul....Looks like your doing a good job with your kit replacement. Wanna hear something funny...I completed the same job, on this exact model...color & everything...3 months ago!! Here's my thought's....1. Stop calling the R134A coolant. Say coolant, people think Antifreeze!! Instead say the 134, or even freon. 2. Once you mount the compressor, very important to leave belt off and Rotate clutch, direction of travel, a good 20 full rotations. Moves the Peg out of the compressor. This will really extend the life. 3. The replacement "brand" can make a big difference. I've done many of these replacements, best success with Four Seasons brand. Solid products. 4. How's your serpintine belt? Looked like it had some wear on top...but, that cld just be the vid.
Lastly.....If there's any way you can afford it, replace the condenser at the same time. I buy thru Amazon, A-Premium is the brand...runs between $100 to $150 ish. Already has the dryer attached to it, this makes all the difference. FYI....you Can't really "flush" condensers now a days...the passages are just too tiny...so, replace it!! I've had good success with this brand condenser....but that's all the ac parts I'll get from Amazon. Dang.....I wrote you a book. Lol. These are just tips, Paul....use 'em or don't...your choice. With AC, stick to the basics...Always pull a vacuum for about an hour, always replace the reciever / dryer and if your going by pressures....always factor in the ambient temperature.
Congrats on being one of the few that can do this type of job!!!
Thanks for posting this.
Did you evac all the freon before removing the compressor ?
How do you add the extra oil to the compressor
I also had another question... my wife's jeep was blowing cold air last year, but not as well. This year, i put in some coolant and i thought it was working. But now it just blows hot air. Should i check to see if it's still holding pressure on the lines, and if so, I'm guessing it's the compressor? And if the system is empty, i guess it's just a leak, right? And if it's a leak, does that mean the compressor got ruined too, or i just fix the leak, fill it up and go?
And...Nobody's answering ya!! I will try to give u a bit of direction....
1. Ac system will blow warm if not enough, but also, too much freon!! What's your Low Side pressure read? Also, I need ambient temp when you take the read.
2. If you have a big leak...Loook for Oil Stain on hoses, front of compressor , any place an ac item bolts together.
Does NOT mean the compressor is dead, but if you use old compressor, must put oil in it!!
3. If system is open..a leak...probly be further ahead to replace dryer, comp, expansion valve.
That's if your gonna keep the vehicle.
Let me know if you need more. Don.
Hey fan tou add in the description the parts you ordered? Or a link to it
Fyi.....there is a reciever dryer on this model....it's on passengers side, above and left of the front wheel. Kinda like on the fender...
I followed all of the lines and looked all in that area and I didn’t see one, based on my research it seems like it depends on if it is a none off road model that has it.
Well, I guess that makes sence to Jeep....somehow?? Lol.
You don't pull a vacuum???
No, it doesn’t seem to make a difference unless you use that to verify that you don’t have any leaks.
How do you empty any existing coolant?
Yep....that's a touchy question.....
If uou have money, take to a shop that can recycle the 134. If you Don't have money....well, man's gotta do something....
Maybe pull out the Low side Schrader Valve, for inspection....and, inspection takes a minute or two.
(That's the bike tire valve, under your low pressure cap.)
I love it! A man's gotta do what a man's gotta do! Right? Lol!
I've had some strange readings after pulling vacuum in prep for adding refrigerant... i have a set of guages, ok. When i open the knobs that are on the actual guages, the low pressure Guage pegged, as high as it will go. The high pressure Guage reads around midway... can't remember the number, but it was where it was supposed to be. The refrigerant wouldn't even flow in unless i turned the high pressure knob off. What's going on there? Can you tell me? The new compressor is on, there's refrigerant in the system and it seems to work. But I have a feeling something is very wrong. Is my evaporator or condenser clogged up up? Strangely, my truck is doing the exact same thing? I do know that my trucks heater core is blocked. I need to replace that. My truck is 20 years old so i was going to do a new evaporator too while the dang dash is gotten out. I just think it seems a little too coincidental that both vehicles are doing the same thing, showing a pegged low pressure guage when everything is opened up. @donmiller8588
@@donmiller8588Hey, if you happen to see this, I'm dying to hear what you think. I really appreciate you taking the time! Thanks man!
Paul, What you wrote here isn't making sence...or I'm reading it wrong!!
Ok...your pulling a vacuum, should have ALL valves open , both valves by gadges, as well as each on high pressure & low pressure line. With vac pump turned on, gages should both be in the Negative, and pegged there! Should not move from that spot!! After an hour, close All Valves, before you turn off pump. Let system sit for 30 mins...if gages move, you have a leak!! Ok, that's the basics or the How it to be done info. I still can't make heads or tails in regards to what your saying....you'd have to bend the laws of Physics to get these results!! There's zero pressure in the system...so how can the high reading be half way?? Low pressure pegged?....there is no pressure to peg with.....so, not possible. Vacuum will make the gages show Negative numbers....Always. Did you try to charge the system a bit prior to evac?? Also....how did your old system Die?? Did the compressor crater?? Did you flush the AC lines and such, Prior to putting on Any New Parts??
Paul, one more thing.....your NOT saying that you opened up both valves when trying to charge the system...right?? Only open low valve to fill system, high stays closed. Only opens during evac....that's all!!
Look at your compressor CLUTCH, while your running the system....is it engaged and spinning? Are you Positive the clutch is engaged?? It's easy to see wrong in cramped space!! If your compressor clutch is Not engaging....and your trying to add 134....it would peg the gadge.