After watching your video I just LOOKED at my clutch safety switch on my 2009 Kia Spectra and lo and behold, the switch wasn't getting pushed in. I fixed that in a hurry. Thanks !
Thank you. This video was incredibly helpful. You speak simply and clearly and everything is well lit. The only way it could be improved is if you showed an example of how a bad, or failing, switch reacts.
The initial reading 0.L is NOT zero, rather indicates "Overload" OL, which means a vary high resistance (open circuit), that's what you want, until you press the switch and get a "closed circuit" which would be zero, or a fairly low number. (The meter should also indicate 0.L when the leads are not connected to anything and zero when touched together) Great video! Thanks!
Great information. We checked the clutch safety switch on a 2006 Nissan Sentra that wouldn't start and found the piece of hard plastic that presses the switch button was broken off. The switch was still good and we manually pressed it, then the car started. This can save a lot of money and time.
Excellent description in video. I have 2015 ex manual Civic with push button engine start. Almost every time before starting it, i have a warning lights to check starter system. Very annoying. Thank you very much. I will test it asap.
New follower 👋 here Sure wish I'd found this video over the last few months before it totally went out. Heck I could have replaced that thing myself. It was getting harder and harder to get it to crank with multiple clutch depressions. *had to hold my mouth just right* 😬 I knew it was that switch going bad. The truck sat for a couple of years and now I'm paying for it. Now my old truck is sitting at a service station that I barely made it into on Friday. Waiting for diagnosis in a few hours. Also have a fuel issue. Probably my fuel pump on my 88 S10 which the bed has to be jacked up for and I'm afraid of the estimate because I replaced it last time in sun in 95 degree weather 🙄 Glad that service station also has a tow truck. That may be my cheapest route right now. ☹
Very clear instructions, but the resistance of the switch should be a few ohms or microohms, not Mohms. A resistance in Mohms is almost an open circuit.
I'd been having intermittent "failure to crank" issue on my 1998 Mazda B2200 truck. I had tested for voltage passing through the clutch starter safety switch and always found power getting through the electrical part of the ignition switch and the clutch starter safety switch. But I had wondered if I was having intermittent high resistance of my clutch starter safety switch, so I took it out, measured its ohms, and found that was happening. So I dismantled my switch, cleaned out some old grease with a swab, put it back together, tested it again (fine) and re-installed it, fine since.
I know you won’t agree but I ripped out the wires, twisted them together, and electrical taped them. It was tight enough getting at those wires. I can only imagine how hard it would have been to get in there to remove switch and replace. My brain is hard wired to press the clutch in anyway every time I start the car.
Thank you. I have a 2015 Honda Accord with a 6-speed manual that is doing the same thing. The problem is that the non-starting is intermittent. How can I test the switch for that??
I need to jumper mine on a bypass as I am 1960's style where any such thing would be laughable → Given what I have seen so-far this resembles the jack-screw runaway issue and the machine would go into panic mode if it moved with "clutch depressed" signaling promptly deploying drogue chute and calling for Drone Enforcement ~ is this an NO or NC switch and is it single pole or like the printer on IBM 1403
I am experiencing intermittent starting. Absolutely no sound from the starter when I turn the ignition. The battery checks out as do the starter cut relay and ignition switch ok and finally the starter itself is ok. Can a faulty clutch safety switch cause intermittent starting?
I did the paperclip thing and it worked for a bit. Afterwards I pulled the sitch and tested it. As far as I know it passed the tests. (It read 0 ohms when depressed) What could it be then?
So theoretically, I could cut one of those wires to the clutch switch, and route it to a separate kill switch and then back to the clutch switch to prevent the vehicle from starting or being stolen......as in Kia or Hyundai.
My car is reading that it needs this new switch. It's a 2007 chevy cobalt. Problem I'm having is at an idle the cars rpms go up and even the speedometer jumps up and down at a stop then dies... does it sound like this switch can do that if it's bad? Thanks.
I'm sure you've fixed the problem by now, but in case you haven't I'll direct you. The throttle body needs cleaned, it gunks up and doesn't fully close causing the problem you've described.
I have a 370z and while trying to remove the bolt holding the switch I bent the shit out of the bracket. Any tips on replacing the bracket or bending it back?
After watching your video I just LOOKED at my clutch safety switch on my 2009 Kia Spectra and lo and behold, the switch wasn't getting pushed in. I fixed that in a hurry. Thanks !
Thank you. This video was incredibly helpful. You speak simply and clearly and everything is well lit. The only way it could be improved is if you showed an example of how a bad, or failing, switch reacts.
I really like the way you kept it nice, simple and good lighting. Thanks
The initial reading 0.L is NOT zero, rather indicates "Overload" OL, which means a vary high resistance (open circuit), that's what you want, until you press the switch and get a "closed circuit" which would be zero, or a fairly low number. (The meter should also indicate 0.L when the leads are not connected to anything and zero when touched together) Great video! Thanks!
I thought ol stood for "open line".
I believe it is actually over limit. If you think you should be reading something and get this, switch to a higher range.
OL in this test is an abbreviation for “Open Loop” but it can represent different things such as "Over Load" for different tests and multimeter modes.
Open Loop
A la ➰➰ iupu😊p@@secretzombie3976 I
Great information. We checked the clutch safety switch on a 2006 Nissan Sentra that wouldn't start and found the piece of hard plastic that presses the switch button was broken off. The switch was still good and we manually pressed it, then the car started. This can save a lot of money and time.
My friends car wasn’t starting and I read this then went out and pressed it in manually and it started
Can't wait for the head gasket install on the 2010 Impreza 2.5i Hatch AT
Excellent description in video. I have 2015 ex manual Civic with push button engine start. Almost every time before starting it, i have a warning lights to check starter system. Very annoying. Thank you very much. I will test it asap.
New follower 👋 here
Sure wish I'd found this video over the last few months before it totally went out. Heck I could have replaced that thing myself. It was getting harder and harder to get it to crank with multiple clutch depressions. *had to hold my mouth just right* 😬 I knew it was that switch going bad. The truck sat for a couple of years and now I'm paying for it.
Now my old truck is sitting at a service station that I barely made it into on Friday.
Waiting for diagnosis in a few hours.
Also have a fuel issue. Probably my fuel pump on my 88 S10 which the bed has to be jacked up for and I'm afraid of the estimate because I replaced it last time in sun in 95 degree weather 🙄
Glad that service station also has a tow truck. That may be my cheapest route right now. ☹
Really clearly done. Thanks.
Thanks!
Thanks for making this video very helpful 👍🏽
Very clear instructions, but the resistance of the switch should be a few ohms or microohms, not Mohms. A resistance in Mohms is almost an open circuit.
Thanks for the info 😊
I'd been having intermittent "failure to crank" issue on my 1998 Mazda B2200 truck. I had tested for voltage passing through the clutch starter safety switch and always found power getting through the electrical part of the ignition switch and the clutch starter safety switch. But I had wondered if I was having intermittent high resistance of my clutch starter safety switch, so I took it out, measured its ohms, and found that was happening. So I dismantled my switch, cleaned out some old grease with a swab, put it back together, tested it again (fine) and re-installed it, fine since.
I know you won’t agree but I ripped out the wires, twisted them together, and electrical taped them. It was tight enough getting at those wires. I can only imagine how hard it would have been to get in there to remove switch and replace. My brain is hard wired to press the clutch in anyway every time I start the car.
what would the number read be if it was wearing out?
I'm new here great video
Thank you. I have a 2015 Honda Accord with a 6-speed manual that is doing the same thing. The problem is that the non-starting is intermittent. How can I test the switch for that??
Simple just had one replaced in chevy cavalier 1996 model
A clutch safety switch in standard transmission is used to start a car. Can I used that switch as a kill switch ?
Thank you
Alligator clips are the best. But in a pinch you can push the switch with your meter needle into the table. Poor man's trick!
Would this be the same sensor on a 2g eclipse
I need to know about the wires that hook up to the switch
And how they connect to the ignition etc
My jeep won't even turn over. I replaced the starter when it went. Replaced the alternator 2 years ago.. I thought the clutch switch might be it?
Not mega Ohms, just Ohms, should be 0 but wires and connection add some resistance.
I need to jumper mine on a bypass as I am 1960's style where any such thing would be laughable → Given what I have seen so-far this resembles the jack-screw runaway issue and the machine would go into panic mode if it moved with "clutch depressed" signaling promptly deploying drogue chute and calling for Drone Enforcement ~ is this an NO or NC switch and is it single pole or like the printer on IBM 1403
I am experiencing intermittent starting. Absolutely no sound from the starter when I turn the ignition. The battery checks out as do the starter cut relay and ignition switch ok and finally the starter itself is ok. Can a faulty clutch safety switch cause intermittent starting?
I did the paperclip thing and it worked for a bit. Afterwards I pulled the sitch and tested it. As far as I know it passed the tests. (It read 0 ohms when depressed) What could it be then?
Why is the resistance 12M Ohms? Shouldn't it be rather a few Ohms if the switch goes closed circuit?
So theoretically, I could cut one of those wires to the clutch switch, and route it to a separate kill switch and then back to the clutch switch to prevent the vehicle from starting or being stolen......as in Kia or Hyundai.
Kia or hyundai with a manual?
If we just check the continuty its enough , is not it ?
Wll this switch make the car shift drifrent or no
My car is reading that it needs this new switch. It's a 2007 chevy cobalt. Problem I'm having is at an idle the cars rpms go up and even the speedometer jumps up and down at a stop then dies... does it sound like this switch can do that if it's bad? Thanks.
I'm sure you've fixed the problem by now, but in case you haven't I'll direct you.
The throttle body needs cleaned, it gunks up and doesn't fully close causing the problem you've described.
I may need the cruise control also while I'm in there. My safety switch is out
I have a 370z and while trying to remove the bolt holding the switch I bent the shit out of the bracket. Any tips on replacing the bracket or bending it back?
How to bypass this switch
What's the purpose of this switch?
The starter won't crank if the switch is bad.
@@CarsNToys so what is the fundtion of the other switch that was sitting above the clutch pedal?.
@@MrUbercool007 so if you switch gears in cruise control it will let off the gas
@@nathaniels2354 I would think it deactivates the cruise control, like pressing on the brake
thank you for this video!