I know this is an old video, but if you happen upon it here's a hint: When you're pushing the pistons back into the caliper, put the OLD pad on the pistons and use a C-clamp. It will push BOTH pistons at the same time so they don't push each other out, and it adds a spacer (the old pad) to get the pistons all the way back. Great video. Thanks.
I know this is an old video but delboy's videos are some of the absolute best sources of information for the noob motorcycle rider who wants to look after their own stead themselves. I thought I would need to use my local motorcycle service centre but with the quality of intelligent information you provide, I think I can give this a go myself. Thank you delboy, you are truly a legend!
Thank you my friend, you're very kind... we don't deserve such generous praise, it's just basic stuff and we're happy to share it, we see it as no more than housekeeping, and we're really glad it can help you... ride safe!
Thanks Delboy for educating me in the type of brake pads to use on my 15 year old kwaka. My wife has just bought me this bike for my 60th birthday, after not having a bike for 20 years, watching you videos is giving me the confidence to maintain and keep it like a new bike. Thank you delboy best wishes to Penny pitstop.
Hi Tommy, that's fantastic news mate and welcome back to biking brother! Where have you been lol! ...it's really cool that the videos can help you and it sounds like you ought to join ou Idiot Collective forum and make some new bike mates to go with your new bike ... check us all out at: www.idiotcollective.com ... get yourself registered and introduce yourself, we have meets all the over the place at least once a month! Welcome aboard mate!
Great timing. Came across your video, and as a noob to biking your video really helped me out. Fitted these on the front and rear of my Honda hornet this morning. Great pads, great advice. Thanks very much.
Just had to drop a note, bought a bike in October, been quite awhile since I owned one, just wanted to say if it were not for your videos I would be absolutely lost, and broke! So far ... I have lowered the rear, changed crank case oil, adjusted clutch, adjusted throttle cables,did a brake service, and installed some biltwell keystone bars!! Could not have done any of this without your vids, can't tell u how much I appreciate all u do, also u are spot on with the F.R.O. vids as well! Cheers mate! Look forward to many more..
Hi Tony, thank you most kindly Sir... that is really kind of you... and we're so glad to hear the videos are able to help you.. it's great to find an audience when you put the time in to it that we do... great long list of jobs there mate and hope you are going to treat Mrs Payne with the money you've saved lol! All the best, see you on the road, Del
One recommendation I would use is while you have the old pads in, compress the pad that contacts the pistons to make sure it applies force evenly. Small tip. Great video!
Another excellent video from Delboys Garage. Some of it I knew, some not. Particularly enjoyed the explanation of E to HH pad ratings. Merci Patron.................
I almost always learn something new and useful from your vids. Although I have been using them for years, I really never understood what the term "sintered" actually meant. I have been running with EBC HH pads on my souped up Buell X1 Lightning for a while now and have found them to be top notch. Thanks again, and keep 'em coming
Particularly with a relatively unworn rotor, brand-new brake pads can offer some resistance as you’re mounting the caliper, even if the pistons are fully retracted. To overcome that, I squirt a bit of brake cleaner on either side of the disc. This provides a temporary lubricating film, the pads slide right onto the disc, and the brake cleaner evaporates in seconds, leaving no lubricant residue.
What a brilliant idea Tom, hadn't thought of that, and I shall do it next time, it can be a real bun fight to force new pads over a brand new disc, this is a great solution !
Del, after all the help that you have been to me, it is wonderful to hear that I have been of help of some sort to you ... in however small a way. Linda and I send our best to you and Penny..
Two years on and this info is still useful so worth all of your effort. Why I say that is because back in February I took my GS for its MOT and the guy spotted I had used these pads and said exactly what you said they wear the discs out so avoid them. Little did he know that I had already brought the same pads for the front ready to fit when I needed to. So ever since still not needing to fit them they have laid in my garage and I have even thought of not fitting them and buying OE pads but now given your wise words I wont bother so you've saved me some money from my pension. I might even be able to buy my wife a Christmas present now ha ha !Thanks again.
hi Ted, yes they do bite harder on the disc, and that inevitably leads to increased wear, but brakes are for stopping, and the EBC sintered pads are undeniably better at stopping.. i guess we have to make a choice, if we want killer brakes that stop you effortlessly, then there is a cost.. it depends if you, as a rider, focus on performance or economy aye... ! Thanks for your feedback mate.. have a good weekend.. Del.
I caught the comment you made about earning our trust as viewers, and how we ask questions accordingly. It's true in my book. I have a '16 DL650A VStrom. I have almost 19,000 miles and am getting ready to replace the front sprocket again, based on your advice in the video you made. Your advice is practical and makes sense. Thanks, and keep up the good work. Oh, and thanks to Penny and her great camera work!
Thanks Bryan, I'll be sure to pass on your message, that will make her day! Good luck with your sprocket change, hope it goes well and thanks for your kind support mate...
Definitely bud I will keep In touch. I got the job done no problem whatsoever thanks to your answers. I’m almost embarrassed how simple it was lol. Keep it up you definitely are very easy to follow n I like that you show all the steps and not just before and after like a lot of the vids out there. Hey if you ever make it here I’ll be happy to show you around some beautiful spots right outside the city. If you ever come across an FZ8 yammi please do some videos on whatever Work you do to it. Cheers bud.
Thanks for invite, and careful what you wish for, we do have a firm plan to visit America when we can clear the decks and get past the working commitments for a while, we have some very dear friends who live in Michigan, many wonderful people also we've made contact with in America over YT, so we've been kicking a plan around for a long while of how best to do it, maybe an RV and tour round, but we'd wanna ride, so maybe a big touring bike - who knows, but it's on the list buddy and we will definitely let you know !
Another great video Dell. I helped my oldest change the pads on his car the other day. It simply reinforced why it is I enjoy working on bikes so much. Scrabbling around on the concrete, under the bloody car, came out looking like a coal miner and just a trolley jack to use. Now he knows how to do it, so next time...............
Man, great video! Simple, with no additional BS as usual on other channels, and well explained. Like Your videos, I even watching some of Your videos just because it is pleasant to watch, never boring. Every now and then I recommend your videos to my clients if they need some additional information or tutorial about replacing or adjusting something on bike. I work as professional stunt driver over a decade and I know things or two. :) You have interesting video about cleaning the ``chicken stripe`` of tire, very useful as I may add, but there is even better way to do it...I might write in comments below that video if You agree, or You can make another video with that way of cleaning the stripe.. Keep it up!
Yet again I have learned something new. Sure, I could have gone to Wikipedia to learn what "sintered" means but you explained it so well... Another great job, Del and Penny!
@ moonfleet. I appreciate the reply and honestly wasn’t expecting one lol. I’m glad us riders stick together. That’s exactly what I bought was the mixed pack of scrub pads by scotch brite. I was just a little concerned about the copper anti seize getting onto the pads just like you mentioned. Some guys were telling me it’s good to use sandpaper and it just didn’t sit right with me. THANK YOU!!
Just found and subscribed to you page after looking how to change pads on my explorer, as im a complete nugget when it comes to bike maintenance. Hopefully you will have a vid about changing tbe real disc as mine is a bit scored, going hunting. ordered the ebc pads to install tomorrow, had a practice tonight based on your vid, very easy many thanks
Hi Steve..Good points mate, .the disc eating issue is a bit overstated.. they will wear more but if you temper your braking and use the extra power they have only when you really need it.. then you'll be fine..
Moonfleet41 Just fitted a new rear tyre on the Bird and guess what. Yep, need new rear pads lol EBC HH from Demon Tweeks for less than £22 delivered. Happy with that :)
Yeh,sound vids DB,nice and confident and well explained,that's the main thing...Seems you have examples of anything that needs our attention . Long may you continue,and great Cam quality from your Lady friend also [crucial!] Thanks both not forgetting the mad machines...Maybe one day I'll get to ride a Triumph Scrambler.Ace
Very informative video mate, i just learnt alot there, i usually go for the cheapest, now i understand the grading behind it all, I'll shop more wisely, 😎
Just an update from today Del: I've succesfully removed all the remaining 7 studs!:) Prep for painting start tomorrow!:) Metallic black+fazer rim stickers+varnish! Can't wait! Keep up with the good videos Del! Cheers Attila
Wel done Attila, good job on the bolts, they are always stubborn and it's good to get them out cleanly... hope the rest goes well for you, take care, Del
Very informative! I have been using EBC HH pads on my track bike for the last two riding seasons and like them a lot; I'll probably use them on my SV650 street bike when I renew those pads this year.
Hi Del, I'm a new subscriber to your channel after many recommendations from The Missenden Flyer. Love what I've seen so far. Great content and well presented. Keep up the good work... 👍
Thank you Gareth, and welcome aboard my friend, ill be working a little more in the spring with TMF to make some cross vlog videos on each others bikes.. it wont be serious, a lot of leg pulling i imagine, but it will be fun thats for sure.. Thanks for jumping aboard mate, and keep in touch, all the best.. Del.
Damn right they do... and you'll find they dont even need the usualy 50 miles running in period before they start to bite....you have better braking than before right after you pull away.. they'll impress you with the improvement in feel and power.. let us know what you think after you've ridden with them a bit..?
Moonfleet41 You was on the money recommending these! I am well impressed, such a improvement. I also love the slight "hissing" sound they give off when braking.
I just got gg organic ebc fronts for the bandit 12 as i thought hh would wear quicker and not be so good cold..well now youve explained it i needent have been so picky..great vid mate and very informative..i like your unbiased views on all these things.."heres whats available heres what it does you choose" sort of vibe..thats rare, most people are more " do this do that"...
Ayup Springy.....as long as the chosen pad is "double lettered" so 'GG' or 'HH' then thats rated good at hot or cold....and the difference between G and H is only going to be ferlt at the top of its range....also on the front, you have two discs and they're bigger... so they'll be fine... the Tigers are renouned for eating thier back pads...so the sharpest friction pads mean less pressure is required in the hope that they'll actually last longer...who know...but for now, they're bloody awesome.. ten times more feel than before..
I'm learning a lot from your videos mate, thanks a lot! Great to see you guys are local to Bournemouth as well :-) Needed some new brake pads and this video has swayed me to get a set of these.. Cheers.
Cheers fellah, they make these for Harleys too and with the often tardy brakes on Harleys, you'll be amazed at how these pads will transform your bike!
Very helpful, both of you. Thanks. When you push the pads in should you remove/loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap keeping an eye on the fluid level as you do so, allowing air to air to escape making pushing the pads back into the callipers ever so slightly easier also using a wad of cloths around just in case pushing the pistons back in raises the level so it overflows? Just noticed you don't wear gloves preferring the aux naturel approach when working on your bikes?
I find that copper grease on the pins helps with the service life of my brakes. Especially in winter. Always clean the road crud off the pistons before pushing them back in to the calliper.you risk ruining the seals
Hello mate, Yankee Chris sent me a link to some Goldfren sintered pads for my B6. They're half the price of EBCs and a background search shows they are a well respected company, so worth a shot. The discs look okay, ideally I would change rotor and pads together but I'm not made of money. Another nice little video, cheers
Hello mate, bloody love that cap, very fetching lol! Picked me new wheels up for the Scrambler today, so if I can find the time after work this week, I'll be bolting them in... can't wait... then if it warms up enough, it's time for some paint on Penny's bike! Se you Sunday mate, really looking forward to meeting you mate!
Hi Terry...(coolest nickname every BTW), its the most asked question on sintered pads, "dont they wear the discs quicker"....yes they do...if you hoon them like a race rider....but you'll notice a huge improvement in powe and bite...so you just brake lighter day to day anf the wear is then the same....with the one difference that if you need sudden stoppage...they'll stand you on yer nose..lol
Thanks dude. I've jus bought my first big bike and currently doing a million tests to get my licence so your teaching me all the things I'll be needing for future decisions and for that I thank you and of course Penny 👍
Terry 'Turbotez' Grainger Nice one Tez... and bloody good luck on the test... your first task today is to join us on the forum... here's a link;- bikers.boards.net/ intorduce yourself on the saction named "introduce yourself" (we like to keep it simple..!) and get posting.. you'll be assured of a warm welcome and make lots of new mates.... see you there mate... Del.
Do you recommend always deglazing the discs when changing pads to sintered ebc from organic oem crap on front? Also what about greasing the pins slightly?
Hi del just be careful with the HH you don't lock up the back wheel. I have been a courier 15 years the HH can catch you out a courier in Dublin where most of the public over 55 years got their licence in a lucky bag love your stuff
Yet another one of lifes' little mysteries solved! Getting more edumacated all the time :) Really tho, didn't know any of this beforehand. Cheers guys!
Thanks Will, it's a little bit of nerdy knowledge, but being OCD I like to understand things fully rather than just trusting reputation... a race pad is H rated, but has other qualities, such as greater heat disipation and shamphered leading edges, but are rubbihs in cold weather
Just a note while you have the "pad pins" out, make sure they are round and not worn with a shiny groove on one side or the pads will tip in following that groove when braking and wear on an angle.
as well as the hardware advise he also gives top intelligent, safe and economical advice on riding , look and think ahead avoiding hard, unnecessary and potentially dangerous braking
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is much appreciated... it's good fun hobby and if it can help a few fellow bikers at the same time, then it's a win all round!
Thanks for a great video...as always 👍Hava a question though, on my bandit 2007 I have two plates, according to the manual "insulator" and "retainer(aka anti-chatter shim)". Does it make sense to use the copper grease you mention in the video or these smart plates do the thing?
If you have shims on the back of your pads, then they should do just fine in stopping the brakes squeal.. but if not, then add a little paste and it will stop.!
Great Trevor good to meet you! On the page I’m under the alias T FZ Rida. Feel free to post any videos you want on my group page as well. A lot of my members will be glad to hear from a knowledgeable mechanic. Tosh is my real name. Cheers 🍻
Also what else do you recommend using the copper anti sieze on as far as front brake swap goes? I’m going to just use brake clean and a scouring pad to clean the discs and just want to be sure if that will do the trick? I have about 12-14,000 miles on my existing pads that I’m upgrading to double h ebc. I don’t need to bleed the system since it’s crystal clear and I have never had an issue. I did have fluid flushed at around 10k but, didn’t need pads at the time. Would you use the copper anti sieze loctite on any of the front brake bolts as well?
Hi buddy, just so I can work through your many questions and not forget any... firstly, de-glazing the disc, it doesn't really make much difference, I wouldn't use an abrasive paper, as not only is there no point, but you can but score marks in the disc, which it doesn't need to have... but you could certainly use a Scotchpad and hot soapy water and work it all round the disc to give it a good deep clean and get any road grime off and out of the grooves.... so cleaning, rather than scuffing. With the brake pins, I choose not to grease mine, most will recommend some of the appropriate compound on the pins, but I've always taken the view that this, being soft, can attract grit and brake dust, causing them to get gummed up, ok they won't rust, but if they're gummed up, then the pads can't move freely across them, so I just take them out altogether, stick them in an electric drill to 'spin' them, then using a Scotchpad, polish the up to a shiny finish... you can replace them with new stainless ones quite cheaply if you want to. With regard to the brake bolts, which hold the caliper to the leg, it depends what bolts you're using... if you're using regular steel bolts, then I use some anti-seize compound, either the graphite or the copper version is fine, and this will stop the bolts rusting in place... but if you're using stainless bolts to hold your calipers in, then I use some threadlock to hold them in, as obviously stainless bolts won't corrode, so you don't need the anti-seize, and threadlock will keep them in place... finally, once youv'e got them all assembled, if you've found your brakes tend to 'squeal', you can add a little smear of anti-seize compound to the BACK of the brake pads at that will absorb the vibration that leads to squealing, but not too much, you must make sure it doesn't ooze out and get on to the disc... hope that helps you my friend, good luck with it, let us know how you get on !
Excellent as always, and you even addressed my question (do sintered pads wear the disks quicker) before I had a chance to ask! One word of caution, when you press those pots back into the caliper watch you haven't filled the reservoir in the meantime (with the pads low) or you are gonna get brake fluid gushing out - would you normally take the reservoir cap off to assist in pushing the pots back into the caliper?
If you know your bike, and do your own maintenece, then you will know if you've topped up your fluid...i have not, anf the fluid level was right at the bottom of the reservior, so i knew it would just push the fluid back up to the top level...and as it was replaced last year its fine to last for another 12 months.... and no, you dont need to remove the cap as they all have a vent hole to level the air pressure inside..
Del firstly thanks for always replying, bought a set for the cbr, couple of questions would you copper slip inbetween the heat shim and pads? And also there is a plastic shim which I assume is to aid with no rattling?, and is the pan pin a no no?? Cheers
Hi mate, just a thin smear of copper slip between the pad and the shim is fine, but I mean a very small amount... and what do you mean by 'pan pin'... do you mean grease the pad pin?? If so, then NO, they must be bone dry and clean... hope that helps mate, good luck!
Thank you for all your videos. I like it how you show us to do these maintenance things and also tell us the whole reason behind it and how it works. Question. I did a complete overhaul of the front brake with new seals, rotor, fluid and these pads. I don't have any binding anymore since the wheel spins multiple rounds with ease, but it does make this scraping noise. Will this go away once I put some miles on the new pads and rotor?
Hi mate, the scraping noise you describe, sometimes described as a 'rushing' or 'hissing' sound, is endemic of the copper pads... they have tiny copper flakes in the pad material, so by that nature, you're hearing a metal to metal interface (albeit a very soft metal against a very hard metal... so that the correct part wears)... it will reduce as time goes on, but there will always be that characteristic 'skish' sound as you brake... if it really bothers you, you could switch to the organic pads, which won't do it!
Moonfleet41 Thank you for the fast reply! The sound is also there when there is no brake applied. The wheel however is spinning very well so it doesn't really bind. Is that normal as well?
sebassiehihi Yes, very normal Sir, the pads only run about 2500thou off the disc surface, they are not precision spaced but merely float losely on pins, so there will inevitably be a small area of contact where the pad touches at some point, but as long as that touch is not under pressure, it will not lead to waer or over-heating!
Another great vid, thanks. I've just put Hel braided lines on the front, they are a bit better braking wise, but not a lot. Do you think sintered pads are the next upgrade? Do they last as long as a cheaper pad? One more thing, do aftermarket adjustable levers make any difference, or are they an aesthetic/comfort ting only?. Keep up the good work mate, fantastic vids
James Bond Hi James, the adjustable levers are purely a comfort thing, unless you have tiny hands, like Penny, then they are essential! Upgrading to braided hoses once used to have an astonishing effect on improving the brakes, but these days the rubber hoses are far better quality and don't swell as much, so the improvement is less marked... Sintered pads are the next upgrade and they will make a big improvement, but be aware that they are quite aggressive on the discs and will eat them quicker... if you don't mind about that, then get them all round and you'll see a big difference... hope that helps mate !
If you're going to use it at all, then a thin smear on the back of each pad, but if you want to, you can install them dry and see if they squeal first... if the brake doesn't squeal, just leave them dry , if it does pop a little on both - and obviously the BACKS only...
Funny coincidence I bough these pads last month, I have a quick question, when I lightly cover the breaks and apply a little pressure they kind of make a funny noise ( like a sssssss noise) that stock brakes didn't, its not really a sequel (so I don't think they are vibrating although I didn't use any copper grease when they were installed...) but when I apply more pressure the sound goes away. Also if I apply alot of pressure and then just cover them again there in no noise, so I think it maybe temperature related? any thoughts? have I done anything wrong? Ride safe!
Blimey Josh, top marks mate, you've clearly got them set up perfectly! That noice which you describe kind of a 'skissssh' sound is sononymous with high performance brakes and it is purely the temperature leveling out as you apply them... quite normal, and quite correct... there's usually no need for copper grease on copper backed pads, as they don't vibrate like organic ones, Take Care mate, and safe braking! Del
Hey Del! Please enlighten us about the bedding in process after the change. I also need to change the rear set but have no clue how to introduce the new pad to the used disc. Thanks! :) Top
If you're going with copper sintered mate, then, unbelievably, there's practically no bedding in period, they will work better than your old ones within half a dozen stabs, but normally, on regular pads, just take it easy and don't rely on them too much for the first few days, avoid gentle prolonged use which builds up heat, but instead, use short and slightly more 'aggressive' stabs of the pedal to scuff them in whilst not letting them get too hot! Hope that helps, Del
Hello Del, Congrats again, you guys, for the video, I'm going throught them all one by one, because they're just so good! It's better than any Netflix show, I swear! Tech question: replacing break pads on a '08 Sportster R, would you recommend going for EBC HH or semi-sint - for city riding mostly? Thankns in advance, and again, excellent, excellent videos, brother!
Hi Giacomo, I've used EBC HH copper sintered pads many times on busy commuter bikes and they are wonderful, they have more 'bite' and friction resistance against the disc, so give a little more feedback and generally feel more efficient... naturally, more bite and friction resistance means that copper sintered pads are known to wear discs quicker, but if you're ok with this, then these pads would be an up-grade to your braking efficiency and you should well notice the difference!
Great video ,very helpful considering I was unsure whether to use organic (more feel allegedly ) or sintered...you helped me decide...I'm going to do the rear pads on my sprint st 955i 1999, amateur mechanic!....seems tight to get to caliper bolts....remove chain guard? any advice much apprehiated
Hi Ian, its often the case that you have to take things off to get to other things... if you can sent a picture, maybe use out Facebook link, and ill see if i can advise buddy... !!
+zzzpip Hi buddy....the friction on the disc is irrelavant, they are made to take it so dont worry, and the pads will work right from the box on a newish bike with healthy smooth discs....if its an older bike and the discs are heavily grooved, then it could be about 50 miles of town riding or so before you get full grip....but these Sintered pads will still work fine even when just fitted.... Hope that helps.. Del.
Just a quick one, how long does it take to bed new pads in, have changed front and back and just wondering if there is a set bedding in period, e.g., miles 100/200 ? Many thanks, great vids 👍
All depends on how badly the discs are worn, if they are quite grooved, then it will take quite a while for that fresh flat pads to bed in to the grooves... but if the discs are mirror flat, like when they are brand new, they will work right away... just be conscious that they will be a little weaker for a while and leave a little more braking space... there's no set mileage to it buddy.
Just changed my pads on the rear of my 2015 triumph, the new pads were EBC, now my concern is my old pads have a honeycomb chrome plate on the rear that hooks over the edge of the pad, now these don't fit on the new pads as the new pad backs are slightly larger, I have fitted the pads without these plates but do you think I should cut off the tabs and fit them anyway, are they just a anti shim plates ? Your advice would be appreciated 👍 cheers great vids 👍
I can never thumbs up your videos. SO.... 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍 To make up for all the videos I could not thumps up. Great work. Keep up the good videos.
Ha ha, Thanks Jose....i can still see them if you click the thumbs up icon...i just hid the count because the poison trolls like to amuse thier tiny brains by posting dislikes....bless them.!
So, my OEM Honda pads are like $37. There's few options for me, but should I go aftermarket? There's like 2 out of 9 that cost more than the OEM. Some are the same price and others a cheaper.
what grease if any would you recommend when putting ur wheels back on the spindle?got the bike back from paint and going to be building her tomorrow hopefully
Hi Jayson, just some regular ordinary LM grease is fine for your axle... nothing special, and not too much either, just a light smear along it's length... hope that helps, good luck with the re-build!
Hi Mick... that can be dangerous, if you havent cleaned the caliper out with a bit of brake cleaner to get the crud off the exposed piston walls first...then you ram all that dirt into the seals when you push them right back....by all means drop them out, clean the caliper, THEN put the old pads back in and lever them right back....but NOT while they're dirty..!
I know this is an old video, but if you happen upon it here's a hint: When you're pushing the pistons back into the caliper, put the OLD pad on the pistons and use a C-clamp. It will push BOTH pistons at the same time so they don't push each other out, and it adds a spacer (the old pad) to get the pistons all the way back.
Great video. Thanks.
Thank you.
I know this is an old video but delboy's videos are some of the absolute best sources of information for the noob motorcycle rider who wants to look after their own stead themselves. I thought I would need to use my local motorcycle service centre but with the quality of intelligent information you provide, I think I can give this a go myself. Thank you delboy, you are truly a legend!
Thank you my friend, you're very kind... we don't deserve such generous praise, it's just basic stuff and we're happy to share it, we see it as no more than housekeeping, and we're really glad it can help you... ride safe!
Thanks Delboy for educating me in the type of brake pads to use on my 15 year old kwaka. My wife has just bought me this bike for my 60th birthday, after not having a bike for 20 years, watching you videos is giving me the confidence to maintain and keep it like a new bike. Thank you delboy best wishes to Penny pitstop.
Hi Tommy, that's fantastic news mate and welcome back to biking brother! Where have you been lol! ...it's really cool that the videos can help you and it sounds like you ought to join ou Idiot Collective forum and make some new bike mates to go with your new bike ... check us all out at: www.idiotcollective.com ... get yourself registered and introduce yourself, we have meets all the over the place at least once a month! Welcome aboard mate!
Thanks mate, I'm changing my pads now and that was a top advice. Cheers Jim in OZ
Great timing.
Came across your video, and as a noob to biking your video really helped me out.
Fitted these on the front and rear of my Honda hornet this morning. Great pads, great advice.
Thanks very much.
Just had to drop a note, bought a bike in October, been quite awhile since I owned one, just wanted to say if it were not for your videos I would be absolutely lost, and broke!
So far ... I have lowered the rear, changed crank case oil, adjusted clutch, adjusted throttle cables,did a brake service, and installed some biltwell keystone bars!!
Could not have done any of this without your vids, can't tell u how much I appreciate all u do, also u are spot on with the F.R.O. vids as well! Cheers mate!
Look forward to many more..
Hi Tony, thank you most kindly Sir... that is really kind of you... and we're so glad to hear the videos are able to help you.. it's great to find an audience when you put the time in to it that we do... great long list of jobs there mate and hope you are going to treat Mrs Payne with the money you've saved lol! All the best, see you on the road, Del
One recommendation I would use is while you have the old pads in, compress the pad that contacts the pistons to make sure it applies force evenly. Small tip. Great video!
Great explanation of the compounds Del, you are making good use of that lift. :)
Man, I love your vids! I learn something new every time. Great explanations!
Thanks mate, you're very kind!
Moonfleet41 f
U make great vids my friend.thx a lot for sharing your knowledge
Another excellent video from Delboys Garage. Some of it I knew, some not. Particularly enjoyed the explanation of E to HH pad ratings.
Merci Patron.................
I almost always learn something new and useful from your vids. Although I have been using them for years, I really never understood what the term "sintered" actually meant. I have been running with EBC HH pads on my souped up Buell X1 Lightning for a while now and have found them to be top notch. Thanks again, and keep 'em coming
Thanks Richard for your kind words.. and beautiful bike you've got there as well... roll on summer eh!
Thank you very much. You guys are very informative. love it. Keep up the fantastic work
Particularly with a relatively unworn rotor, brand-new brake pads can offer some resistance as you’re mounting the caliper, even if the pistons are fully retracted. To overcome that, I squirt a bit of brake cleaner on either side of the disc. This provides a temporary lubricating film, the pads slide right onto the disc, and the brake cleaner evaporates in seconds, leaving no lubricant residue.
What a brilliant idea Tom, hadn't thought of that, and I shall do it next time, it can be a real bun fight to force new pads over a brand new disc, this is a great solution !
Del, after all the help that you have been to me, it is wonderful to hear that I have been of help of some sort to you ... in however small a way. Linda and I send our best to you and Penny..
Two years on and this info is still useful so worth all of your effort. Why I say that is because back in February I took my GS for its MOT and the guy spotted I had used these pads and said exactly what you said they wear the discs out so avoid them. Little did he know that I had already brought the same pads for the front ready to fit when I needed to. So ever since still not needing to fit them they have laid in my garage and I have even thought of not fitting them and buying OE pads but now given your wise words I wont bother so you've saved me some money from my pension. I might even be able to buy my wife a Christmas present now ha ha !Thanks again.
hi Ted, yes they do bite harder on the disc, and that inevitably leads to increased wear, but brakes are for stopping, and the EBC sintered pads are undeniably better at stopping.. i guess we have to make a choice, if we want killer brakes that stop you effortlessly, then there is a cost.. it depends if you, as a rider, focus on performance or economy aye... ! Thanks for your feedback mate.. have a good weekend.. Del.
Great video, I need new brakes, and someone recommended these to me, now I know why. Thanks for the education.
I caught the comment you made about earning our trust as viewers, and how we ask questions accordingly. It's true in my book. I have a '16 DL650A VStrom. I have almost 19,000 miles and am getting ready to replace the front sprocket again, based on your advice in the video you made. Your advice is practical and makes sense. Thanks, and keep up the good work. Oh, and thanks to Penny and her great camera work!
Thanks Bryan, I'll be sure to pass on your message, that will make her day! Good luck with your sprocket change, hope it goes well and thanks for your kind support mate...
Another informative video, thanks Del
Cheers for in the info fella, looking forward to seeing the new wheels :)
Great videos, very clear explanation of the topic and also extremely good camera work by Penny !!
Thanks buddy, I'll be sure to pass your kinds words to her...cheers
Definitely bud I will keep In touch. I got the job done no problem whatsoever thanks to your answers. I’m almost embarrassed how simple it was lol. Keep it up you definitely are very easy to follow n I like that you show all the steps and not just before and after like a lot of the vids out there. Hey if you ever make it here I’ll be happy to show you around some beautiful spots right outside the city. If you ever come across an FZ8 yammi please do some videos on whatever Work you do to it. Cheers bud.
Thanks for invite, and careful what you wish for, we do have a firm plan to visit America when we can clear the decks and get past the working commitments for a while, we have some very dear friends who live in Michigan, many wonderful people also we've made contact with in America over YT, so we've been kicking a plan around for a long while of how best to do it, maybe an RV and tour round, but we'd wanna ride, so maybe a big touring bike - who knows, but it's on the list buddy and we will definitely let you know !
Another great video Dell.
I helped my oldest change the pads on his car the other day. It simply reinforced why it is I enjoy working on bikes so much. Scrabbling around on the concrete, under the bloody car, came out looking like a coal miner and just a trolley jack to use. Now he knows how to do it, so next time...............
haha, I know what you mean... it just ain't funny when you get to our age, grovelling round on your knees !
Your videos are much clearer to see the detail of what you are doing now that you have it lift table...... The downside is now I want one too!
Ha ha, thanks Jeff....im afraid they are rather catching....i cant think how i would ever want to work down on the floor again.. !
Cool vid,,, thanks for the info about the pad rating and explaining about them,,learnt a lot. Keep them coming
Cheers Ian, simple stuff and it's always better to know the facts...!
Man, great video! Simple, with no additional BS as usual on other channels, and well explained.
Like Your videos, I even watching some of Your videos just because it is pleasant to watch, never boring.
Every now and then I recommend your videos to my clients if they need some additional information or tutorial about replacing or adjusting something on bike.
I work as professional stunt driver over a decade and I know things or two. :)
You have interesting video about cleaning the ``chicken stripe`` of tire, very useful as I may add, but there is even better way to do it...I might write in comments below that video if You agree, or You can make another video with that way of cleaning the stripe..
Keep it up!
Yet again I have learned something new. Sure, I could have gone to Wikipedia to learn what "sintered" means but you explained it so well... Another great job, Del and Penny!
Thanks John, simple stuff aye, and really appreciate your kind support.. D&Px
as always great and informative video
@ moonfleet. I appreciate the reply and honestly wasn’t expecting one lol. I’m glad us riders stick together. That’s exactly what I bought was the mixed pack of scrub pads by scotch brite. I was just a little concerned about the copper anti seize getting onto the pads just like you mentioned. Some guys were telling me it’s good to use sandpaper and it just didn’t sit right with me. THANK YOU!!
Great vids thanks. Most important step, pump pedal or lever to get pads back in contact with the disk. Can be very embarrassing if you forget.
I love it when I actually learn stuff. I'm glad I subscribed. Thanks, WEGGY ZZR, for pointing me in the right direction.
You're most welcome mate and welcome aboard... that Weggy is a proper top fellah!
Excellent vid Del. I believe I now know what brakes I"m putting on the bike next time.
Cheers brother, go for it, you'll be amazed at the improvement!
Just found and subscribed to you page after looking how to change pads on my explorer, as im a complete nugget when it comes to bike maintenance. Hopefully you will have a vid about changing tbe real disc as mine is a bit scored, going hunting. ordered the ebc pads to install tomorrow, had a practice tonight based on your vid, very easy many thanks
🔴🔴🔴excellent explanation... just ordered front and rear pads.🔴🔴🔴
Great video Del. I've used EBC HH on every bike i've owned. Awesome stopping power and i've never 'eaten' the discs as some people claim.
Hi Steve..Good points mate, .the disc eating issue is a bit overstated.. they will wear more but if you temper your braking and use the extra power they have only when you really need it.. then you'll be fine..
Moonfleet41 Just fitted a new rear tyre on the Bird and guess what. Yep, need new rear pads lol EBC HH from Demon Tweeks for less than £22 delivered. Happy with that :)
Yeh,sound vids DB,nice and confident and well explained,that's the main thing...Seems you have examples of anything that needs our attention .
Long may you continue,and great Cam quality from your Lady friend also [crucial!]
Thanks both not forgetting the mad machines...Maybe one day I'll get to ride a Triumph Scrambler.Ace
+eamonn colley Thanks Eamonn, glad you enjoy the videos, you're very kind... ride safe mate !
Very informative video mate, i just learnt alot there, i usually go for the cheapest, now i understand the grading behind it all, I'll shop more wisely, 😎
Ayp Bazza, you know what they say, 'cheap ain't good, and good ain't cheap' ! (but actually, these are still quite reasonable at £23 a pair)
Great info well explained cheers matey.....
Yeah that's what I used for my Bandit when I changed mine. Was told they are the best for Suzuki Bandits on the Forums :)
Don`t forget to pump the brake at the end to push the pads into position.
Great info Del, cheers
Nice one Del, very useful info.
Ayup Kiwi! Good to hear to hear from you mate... will we be seeing you at Fowlers next weekend then??
Just an update from today Del:
I've succesfully removed all the remaining 7 studs!:)
Prep for painting start tomorrow!:)
Metallic black+fazer rim stickers+varnish!
Can't wait!
Keep up with the good videos Del!
Cheers
Attila
Wel done Attila, good job on the bolts, they are always stubborn and it's good to get them out cleanly... hope the rest goes well for you, take care, Del
Very informative! I have been using EBC HH pads on my track bike for the last two riding seasons and like them a lot; I'll probably use them on my SV650 street bike when I renew those pads this year.
Good plan, can't beat sintered pads!
Hi Del, I'm a new subscriber to your channel after many recommendations from The Missenden Flyer. Love what I've seen so far. Great content and well presented. Keep up the good work... 👍
Thank you Gareth, and welcome aboard my friend, ill be working a little more in the spring with TMF to make some cross vlog videos on each others bikes.. it wont be serious, a lot of leg pulling i imagine, but it will be fun thats for sure.. Thanks for jumping aboard mate, and keep in touch, all the best.. Del.
Just ordered these a couple of days ago, so good to know they get you recommendation.
Damn right they do... and you'll find they dont even need the usualy 50 miles running in period before they start to bite....you have better braking than before right after you pull away.. they'll impress you with the improvement in feel and power.. let us know what you think after you've ridden with them a bit..?
Will do!
Moonfleet41 You was on the money recommending these! I am well impressed, such a improvement. I also love the slight "hissing" sound they give off when braking.
Good vid Del, great info buddy, most appreciated, RSM8.
Thanks Skeggs, that's very kind of you mate!
I just got gg organic ebc fronts for the bandit 12 as i thought hh would wear quicker and not be so good cold..well now youve explained it i needent have been so picky..great vid mate and very informative..i like your unbiased views on all these things.."heres whats available heres what it does you choose" sort of vibe..thats rare, most people are more " do this do that"...
Ayup Springy.....as long as the chosen pad is "double lettered" so 'GG' or 'HH' then thats rated good at hot or cold....and the difference between G and H is only going to be ferlt at the top of its range....also on the front, you have two discs and they're bigger... so they'll be fine... the Tigers are renouned for eating thier back pads...so the sharpest friction pads mean less pressure is required in the hope that they'll actually last longer...who know...but for now, they're bloody awesome.. ten times more feel than before..
Great explanations, including the etymology of the word 'sinter'. Nice vid!
Thanks buddy, much appreciated !
I'm learning a lot from your videos mate, thanks a lot! Great to see you guys are local to Bournemouth as well :-) Needed some new brake pads and this video has swayed me to get a set of these.. Cheers.
Cheers buddy...are you local too then..?
Moonfleet41 Yes, just in Charminster
Just put these on my cruiser looking forward to giving them a go
Great work and great vid,,, !!! Good info......
Ride Safe,,,,
Cheers fellah, they make these for Harleys too and with the often tardy brakes on Harleys, you'll be amazed at how these pads will transform your bike!
Informative as usual mate, thanks for the lowdown!
Very helpful, both of you. Thanks.
When you push the pads in should you remove/loosen the brake fluid reservoir cap keeping an eye on the fluid level as you do so, allowing air to air to escape making pushing the pads back into the callipers ever so slightly easier also using a wad of cloths around just in case pushing the pistons back in raises the level so it overflows? Just noticed you don't wear gloves preferring the aux naturel approach when working on your bikes?
Great video Del!
Cheers Josh..
Glad to watch your video , good info . Thanks
evilmuscle Thank mate, glad you liked it. !
thanks for great vids I live out in sticks so no help very near
Nice info mate ,cheers!
I find that copper grease on the pins helps with the service life of my brakes. Especially in winter. Always clean the road crud off the pistons before pushing them back in to the calliper.you risk ruining the seals
awesome deploy bravo nice video.
Hello mate, Yankee Chris sent me a link to some Goldfren sintered pads for my B6. They're half the price of EBCs and a background search shows they are a well respected company, so worth a shot. The discs look okay, ideally I would change rotor and pads together but I'm not made of money. Another nice little video, cheers
just put in some SBS ones few months ago the front and rear are both really good.
Nothing like a pad up-grade eh mate!
another great video del see you next sunday cant wait whats next for the garage
Hello mate, bloody love that cap, very fetching lol! Picked me new wheels up for the Scrambler today, so if I can find the time after work this week, I'll be bolting them in... can't wait... then if it warms up enough, it's time for some paint on Penny's bike! Se you Sunday mate, really looking forward to meeting you mate!
Moonfleet41 sounds like a busy week for you see you next week
Awesome video dude thanks for the education. I really nearly had a question for ya but you covered the disc wear at the end. Cheers dude
Hi Terry...(coolest nickname every BTW), its the most asked question on sintered pads, "dont they wear the discs quicker"....yes they do...if you hoon them like a race rider....but you'll notice a huge improvement in powe and bite...so you just brake lighter day to day anf the wear is then the same....with the one difference that if you need sudden stoppage...they'll stand you on yer nose..lol
Thanks dude. I've jus bought my first big bike and currently doing a million tests to get my licence so your teaching me all the things I'll be needing for future decisions and for that I thank you and of course Penny 👍
Terry 'Turbotez' Grainger
Nice one Tez... and bloody good luck on the test... your first task today is to join us on the forum... here's a link;- bikers.boards.net/ intorduce yourself on the saction named "introduce yourself" (we like to keep it simple..!) and get posting.. you'll be assured of a warm welcome and make lots of new mates.... see you there mate... Del.
Nice one. Got some building of ikea flat pack fun and then I'll be there
Do you recommend always deglazing the discs when changing pads to sintered ebc from organic oem crap on front? Also what about greasing the pins slightly?
Hi del just be careful with the HH you don't lock up the back wheel. I have been a courier 15 years the HH can catch you out a courier in Dublin where most of the public over 55 years got their licence in a lucky bag love your stuff
Top job, i love this channel
Thanks Jonathan, that's very kind of you mate, we appreciate the support!
Yet another one of lifes' little mysteries solved! Getting more edumacated all the time :) Really tho, didn't know any of this beforehand. Cheers guys!
Thanks Blue, simple nerdy stuff, but nonetheless, interesting!
Another good video Del, and I now know what the ratings mean..I did think HH where for race type brakes...everyday is a school day!!
Thanks Will, it's a little bit of nerdy knowledge, but being OCD I like to understand things fully rather than just trusting reputation... a race pad is H rated, but has other qualities, such as greater heat disipation and shamphered leading edges, but are rubbihs in cold weather
Just a note while you have the "pad pins" out, make sure they are round and not worn with a shiny groove on one side or the pads will tip in following that groove when braking and wear on an angle.
as well as the hardware advise he also gives top intelligent, safe and economical advice on riding , look and think ahead avoiding hard, unnecessary and potentially dangerous braking
Really good video, you are a Natural infront of the camera...:) you shuld be on TV!!
Thank you most kindly Sir, that is much appreciated... it's good fun hobby and if it can help a few fellow bikers at the same time, then it's a win all round!
Nice video,you can use the old pad to move the caliper piston back together .
You can indeed, and its handy to get round the slider bracket as it fits inside it..
Thanks, now sintered and HH makes sense!
Ain't hard is it lol!
Sintered pads great road pad.Excellant braking & long life.Ride safe.
Too right Denis, gonna upgrade to Sintered on the Harley once i chomp through the current ones...which wont be long..lol
Thanks for a great video...as always 👍Hava a question though, on my bandit 2007 I have two plates, according to the manual "insulator" and "retainer(aka anti-chatter shim)". Does it make sense to use the copper grease you mention in the video or these smart plates do the thing?
If you have shims on the back of your pads, then they should do just fine in stopping the brakes squeal.. but if not, then add a little paste and it will stop.!
Great Trevor good to meet you! On the page I’m under the alias T FZ Rida. Feel free to post any videos you want on my group page as well. A lot of my members will be glad to hear from a knowledgeable mechanic. Tosh is my real name. Cheers 🍻
Thanks Tosh, ill keep an eye on it and keep in touch.. thanks again for your support sir.. all the best.. Del.
EBC only in the Dyson garage. Great vid as ever buddy :)
Great minds think alike aye...!!!
Also what else do you recommend using the copper anti sieze on as far as front brake swap goes? I’m going to just use brake clean and a scouring pad to clean the discs and just want to be sure if that will do the trick? I have about 12-14,000 miles on my existing pads that I’m upgrading to double h ebc. I don’t need to bleed the system since it’s crystal clear and I have never had an issue. I did have fluid flushed at around 10k but, didn’t need pads at the time. Would you use the copper anti sieze loctite on any of the front brake bolts as well?
Hi buddy, just so I can work through your many questions and not forget any... firstly, de-glazing the disc, it doesn't really make much difference, I wouldn't use an abrasive paper, as not only is there no point, but you can but score marks in the disc, which it doesn't need to have... but you could certainly use a Scotchpad and hot soapy water and work it all round the disc to give it a good deep clean and get any road grime off and out of the grooves.... so cleaning, rather than scuffing.
With the brake pins, I choose not to grease mine, most will recommend some of the appropriate compound on the pins, but I've always taken the view that this, being soft, can attract grit and brake dust, causing them to get gummed up, ok they won't rust, but if they're gummed up, then the pads can't move freely across them, so I just take them out altogether, stick them in an electric drill to 'spin' them, then using a Scotchpad, polish the up to a shiny finish... you can replace them with new stainless ones quite cheaply if you want to.
With regard to the brake bolts, which hold the caliper to the leg, it depends what bolts you're using... if you're using regular steel bolts, then I use some anti-seize compound, either the graphite or the copper version is fine, and this will stop the bolts rusting in place... but if you're using stainless bolts to hold your calipers in, then I use some threadlock to hold them in, as obviously stainless bolts won't corrode, so you don't need the anti-seize, and threadlock will keep them in place... finally, once youv'e got them all assembled, if you've found your brakes tend to 'squeal', you can add a little smear of anti-seize compound to the BACK of the brake pads at that will absorb the vibration that leads to squealing, but not too much, you must make sure it doesn't ooze out and get on to the disc... hope that helps you my friend, good luck with it, let us know how you get on !
I'd also use a small amount of locktite on the caliper mounting bolts
Excellent as always, and you even addressed my question (do sintered pads wear the disks quicker) before I had a chance to ask! One word of caution, when you press those pots back into the caliper watch you haven't filled the reservoir in the meantime (with the pads low) or you are gonna get brake fluid gushing out - would you normally take the reservoir cap off to assist in pushing the pots back into the caliper?
If you know your bike, and do your own maintenece, then you will know if you've topped up your fluid...i have not, anf the fluid level was right at the bottom of the reservior, so i knew it would just push the fluid back up to the top level...and as it was replaced last year its fine to last for another 12 months.... and no, you dont need to remove the cap as they all have a vent hole to level the air pressure inside..
do you have a video for a Road King brake change?
Del firstly thanks for always replying, bought a set for the cbr, couple of questions would you copper slip inbetween the heat shim and pads? And also there is a plastic shim which I assume is to aid with no rattling?, and is the pan pin a no no?? Cheers
Hi mate, just a thin smear of copper slip between the pad and the shim is fine, but I mean a very small amount... and what do you mean by 'pan pin'... do you mean grease the pad pin?? If so, then NO, they must be bone dry and clean... hope that helps mate, good luck!
Thanks your tips
Thank you for all your videos. I like it how you show us to do these maintenance things and also tell us the whole reason behind it and how it works. Question. I did a complete overhaul of the front brake with new seals, rotor, fluid and these pads. I don't have any binding anymore since the wheel spins multiple rounds with ease, but it does make this scraping noise. Will this go away once I put some miles on the new pads and rotor?
Hi mate, the scraping noise you describe, sometimes described as a 'rushing' or 'hissing' sound, is endemic of the copper pads... they have tiny copper flakes in the pad material, so by that nature, you're hearing a metal to metal interface (albeit a very soft metal against a very hard metal... so that the correct part wears)... it will reduce as time goes on, but there will always be that characteristic 'skish' sound as you brake... if it really bothers you, you could switch to the organic pads, which won't do it!
Moonfleet41 Thank you for the fast reply! The sound is also there when there is no brake applied. The wheel however is spinning very well so it doesn't really bind. Is that normal as well?
sebassiehihi Yes, very normal Sir, the pads only run about 2500thou off the disc surface, they are not precision spaced but merely float losely on pins, so there will inevitably be a small area of contact where the pad touches at some point, but as long as that touch is not under pressure, it will not lead to waer or over-heating!
Another great vid, thanks. I've just put Hel braided lines on the front, they are a bit better braking wise, but not a lot. Do you think sintered pads are the next upgrade? Do they last as long as a cheaper pad? One more thing, do aftermarket adjustable levers make any difference, or are they an aesthetic/comfort ting only?. Keep up the good work mate, fantastic vids
James Bond Hi James, the adjustable levers are purely a comfort thing, unless you have tiny hands, like Penny, then they are essential!
Upgrading to braided hoses once used to have an astonishing effect on improving the brakes, but these days the rubber hoses are far better quality and don't swell as much, so the improvement is less marked... Sintered pads are the next upgrade and they will make a big improvement, but be aware that they are quite aggressive on the discs and will eat them quicker... if you don't mind about that, then get them all round and you'll see a big difference... hope that helps mate !
Great Videos and tips! Do you use the copper grease on both pads or only the one furthest from the pistons?
If you're going to use it at all, then a thin smear on the back of each pad, but if you want to, you can install them dry and see if they squeal first... if the brake doesn't squeal, just leave them dry , if it does pop a little on both - and obviously the BACKS only...
you sir... i like you. Very informative
+KyoshiNin Thank you most kindly sir, appreciate you watching... Del.
Funny coincidence I bough these pads last month, I have a quick question, when I lightly cover the breaks and apply a little pressure they kind of make a funny noise ( like a sssssss noise) that stock brakes didn't, its not really a sequel (so I don't think they are vibrating although I didn't use any copper grease when they were installed...) but when I apply more pressure the sound goes away. Also if I apply alot of pressure and then just cover them again there in no noise, so I think it maybe temperature related? any thoughts? have I done anything wrong?
Ride safe!
Blimey Josh, top marks mate, you've clearly got them set up perfectly! That noice which you describe kind of a 'skissssh' sound is sononymous with high performance brakes and it is purely the temperature leveling out as you apply them... quite normal, and quite correct... there's usually no need for copper grease on copper backed pads, as they don't vibrate like organic ones, Take Care mate, and safe braking! Del
Moonfleet41 Ok thats great to hear, ride safe man
Thanks mate,
Hey Del!
Please enlighten us about the bedding in process after the change. I also need to change the rear set but have no clue how to introduce the new pad to the used disc. Thanks! :)
Top
If you're going with copper sintered mate, then, unbelievably, there's practically no bedding in period, they will work better than your old ones within half a dozen stabs, but normally, on regular pads, just take it easy and don't rely on them too much for the first few days, avoid gentle prolonged use which builds up heat, but instead, use short and slightly more 'aggressive' stabs of the pedal to scuff them in whilst not letting them get too hot! Hope that helps, Del
Moonfleet41 Great! Thanks alot for the fast answer, helped me alot. I def go for the HH ones! Cheers, Top
Hello Del,
Congrats again, you guys, for the video, I'm going throught them all one by one, because they're just so good! It's better than any Netflix show, I swear!
Tech question: replacing break pads on a '08 Sportster R, would you recommend going for EBC HH or semi-sint - for city riding mostly?
Thankns in advance, and again, excellent, excellent videos, brother!
Hi Giacomo, I've used EBC HH copper sintered pads many times on busy commuter bikes and they are wonderful, they have more 'bite' and friction resistance against the disc, so give a little more feedback and generally feel more efficient... naturally, more bite and friction resistance means that copper sintered pads are known to wear discs quicker, but if you're ok with this, then these pads would be an up-grade to your braking efficiency and you should well notice the difference!
Great video ,very helpful considering I was unsure whether to use organic (more feel allegedly ) or sintered...you helped me decide...I'm going to do the rear pads on my sprint st 955i 1999, amateur mechanic!....seems tight to get to caliper bolts....remove chain guard? any advice much apprehiated
Hi Ian, its often the case that you have to take things off to get to other things... if you can sent a picture, maybe use out Facebook link, and ill see if i can advise buddy... !!
Great video Del,when new pads are fitted,how much friction is thereon the disks and how long for bedding the pads in thanks.
+zzzpip Hi buddy....the friction on the disc is irrelavant, they are made to take it so dont worry, and the pads will work right from the box on a newish bike with healthy smooth discs....if its an older bike and the discs are heavily grooved, then it could be about 50 miles of town riding or so before you get full grip....but these Sintered pads will still work fine even when just fitted.... Hope that helps.. Del.
thanks for taking the time to reply cheers
Thank you ^^
Just a quick one, how long does it take to bed new pads in, have changed front and back and just wondering if there is a set bedding in period, e.g., miles 100/200 ? Many thanks, great vids 👍
All depends on how badly the discs are worn, if they are quite grooved, then it will take quite a while for that fresh flat pads to bed in to the grooves... but if the discs are mirror flat, like when they are brand new, they will work right away... just be conscious that they will be a little weaker for a while and leave a little more braking space... there's no set mileage to it buddy.
Just changed my pads on the rear of my 2015 triumph, the new pads were EBC, now my concern is my old pads have a honeycomb chrome plate on the rear that hooks over the edge of the pad, now these don't fit on the new pads as the new pad backs are slightly larger, I have fitted the pads without these plates but do you think I should cut off the tabs and fit them anyway, are they just a anti shim plates ? Your advice would be appreciated 👍 cheers great vids 👍
They are anti-squeal plates, all you need to do is smear some copperslip on the back of the new pads, and they will be fine!
I can never thumbs up your videos. SO....
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To make up for all the videos I could not thumps up. Great work. Keep up the good videos.
Ha ha, Thanks Jose....i can still see them if you click the thumbs up icon...i just hid the count because the poison trolls like to amuse thier tiny brains by posting dislikes....bless them.!
So, my OEM Honda pads are like $37. There's few options for me, but should I go aftermarket? There's like 2 out of 9 that cost more than the OEM. Some are the same price and others a cheaper.
what grease if any would you recommend when putting ur wheels back on the spindle?got the bike back from paint and going to be building her tomorrow hopefully
Hi Jayson, just some regular ordinary LM grease is fine for your axle... nothing special, and not too much either, just a light smear along it's length... hope that helps, good luck with the re-build!
My rear break is an on off switch, so I use sintered HH front and organic rear..
Good move...
I use a "tyrespoon" in between the old pads to push the pistons back in before changing the pads.
Hi Mick... that can be dangerous, if you havent cleaned the caliper out with a bit of brake cleaner to get the crud off the exposed piston walls first...then you ram all that dirt into the seals when you push them right back....by all means drop them out, clean the caliper, THEN put the old pads back in and lever them right back....but NOT while they're dirty..!
Moonfleet41 Good point! Never tought about that.