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Zeroing a CNC
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- čas přidán 19. 08. 2024
- We take you through all the steps of zeroing your CNC before carving.
- 00:44 Locating your Zero point in the software
- 01:30 Holding down your material
- 02:47 Marking material for a center zero
- 03:36 Homing your machine
- 05:04 Secure material aligned with machine axis
- 06:30 Moving to X & Y axis
- 07:07 Paper technique for Z axis
- 07:53 Zeroing to the front corner
- 08:53 Speed settings
Finally! After 3 days of video searching, this is the exact video I needed. Short, clear, and to the point. Thanks!
Same
I own two CNC machines,,, I have found that once X&Y are Zeroed, I like to send the bit to N EW & S and lower the bit using the paper method.
This lets me see any minute depth discrepancies and I can adjust Z up and down to accommodate these variations. Yes of course there is a Go / No go ,, especially on double sided signs. During design in V-Carve I pay attention to Z as I hover the cursor over the letters or design. On letters with intersection parts this is critical.
About this video, it has taught me new ways to secure a Run of the same design, such as drink coasters, or clock faces..
thanks for posting this. Best of luck in 2021...
This is a great point when you are dealing with variable thickness in your material, thanks for sharing! The last thing anyone wants is to carve too deep on a double sided design. We use templates for all of our designs that we mass produce, it's a great time saver!
Nice, clear explanations.
I did wonder how you got different pieces perfectly centered.
I have the same Axiom AR8. I engrave a grid into the spoilboard so you can easily set permanent zero spots and quickly align the work-piece along the x and y axis using the corner method. Even if you use a center zero, it helps you square up the work-piece to the x/y axis.
That's a great tip! Thanks for sharing with us.
I would think using a roofing square would be much easier and faster. Just set the square down into the slots and just side the wood onto the square.
My CNC controller software, NewRAD CNC use 2 cameras to zero the X and Y automatically.
Thanks alot
Hi, love your videos. I am a newbie, can you explain a bit more about this, when you are moving on your Y-axis you stopped at the top corner, do you zero your Y-axis at that time? You move down the Y-axis to the bottom corner and stopped do you zero your X-axis then? Sorry for asking a simple question but a little confused.
Clamping nut where we insert collet for holding tool in our cnc.wood.carving router
Is stuck, can you tell any method so that we can open it
It's very frustrating when that happens! In theory, it should come loose with force, once you verify that you are turning it the right direction, you could try tapping the wrench with a mallet. Remember not to use heat, as that could damage your motor. Good luck!
Thank you for reply
did by any chance you make that door raised panel on your cnc
No, we used the regular old router table for that, simply because it's faster.
Good video on setting the xzy. I was wondering if you would share the font name you used it the vcarve in the board.
Thanks Jeff
Of course! It's called Shrewsbury, it should be available for free download at some of the different font websites out there.
How can I set my cnc machine to take various machining parameters like feed rate, spindle speed etc to take value from program ,instead of taking pre fixed value manually in cnc
This is going to be vary specific to your machine. I've heard some machines are capable of taking such settings from the gcode, but I have never used one of those. My machine gets the feed rate from the software, but I manually set the speed for every tool. You would need to consult the manual or manufacturer of your machine to find out what it is capable of and how to adjust the settings.
If using the " X " in the center why not set the X Y Zero there? Then you only have to use the paper or "puck" to set the Z zero.
You're right, that's exactly what we do, we only included the other way for people who still want to use the corner method. Sorry if that was unclear.
@@EverwoodCreations
Are you saying that if you set x (also setting Y & Z) for the center than you don't have to account for bit width by touching each of the sides with the bit?
If so, what do you need to do during bit change and a good portion of the top of the wood has been cut out. Do you just set it for the new height AND when setting depths of cut in the program do you have to account for each level of cutting.
desired depth to .3 OR desired depth to .3
First cut First cut
top of wood -.2 Top of wood-.2
Second cut Second cut
top of wood -.3 .2 (New top of wood) - .1
That's right. If you zero to the center, you don't have to account for the size of the bit, you just have to get it perfectly centered over the "X" you make in the center of your material. Do make sure your material is square with the machine, though. When you change a tool, you will need to center the bit over the "X" again and re-set your zero on your machine.
As for the depth of cut, it depends. If it is all the same toolpath, the software will automatically do the calculations for depth of each cut, it calls that passes. You can edit how deep each pass goes in the section where you pick your tool, there is a button that says "Edit Passes".
If you are wanting to use separate toolpaths, you can change the starting depth of each subsequent path. So the first toolpath may cut .3 inches deep starting at the top of the material. The next toolpath (as long as it is contained within the first) you may start the cutting at .3 and go a further .2 to get a total carved depth of .5. In the Cutting Depths section of the toolpath panel, the top option is Starting Depth, which is where you want the cut to start, below that is Cut depth, which is how deep you want the total cut of this toolpath to be, starting at the value in the Starting Depth. Top of the material means 0 in the Starting Depth box.
@@EverwoodCreations
I tried Steve Gronksy suggestion being new at my cnc machine but before reading your comment. I tried it for the heck of it not knowing what the heck I was doing. I actually found it easier. Since it was at the beginning of a project and on a plain block of wood I just aimed for the center. I did have a tool change though during the project. I figured if I didn't change the x&y then that would stay the same. All I did was move the bit off the work area, I zero'd my z axis to the work surface of the new bit I just changed, I hit the go button and wallah it went back to work. Worked out great except for some reason, being new to it, now I had problems with the bit running through part of my work? I had safe z clearly high enough but I found that to be problem. Haven't figured that one out yet and I'm assuming it is from me setting the z at the bottom of the work surface which I would have thought it to be calculated out by the thickness of my material?
Any way, have a question for you.
I'm trying out that Jason deorei halftone free program. When I set the x & y on the program to 0 and then save it as gCode my machine runs to the center of my entire work area even though I zero'd the X & Y over the center of my work piece.
Do you have any idea why. I thought I did. I used the machine x&y for the center of the work piece, went back to the program. Changed the values and BAAAM the router took off and dug a straight line deep into (and my waste board) and my test board.
Would you have any idea how to actually use the x & y on that free program? People video it but they NEVER explain that part or how they actually aimed the router to the starting point! Like I said, I left it at 00 the first couple of times and the router just moved to the exact center of my waste board instead of moving to where my project was.
The software should automatically calculate the thickness of your material. Are you using a material of varied thickness? If not you could try setting z-zero to the material top and see if that helps your issue. Theoretically the results should be the same. I typically zero to the top of the material, so I have little experience with zeroing to the machine bed. Many on the vectric forums use the machine bed, so they could be a good resource for you.
I am not familiar with the halftone software you are using, so I'm of little help there either. It looks intriguing though, I will put it on my list of things to explore in the future.
Hi how can I use program 3D on cnc artcam
Sorry, I'm not familiar with ArtCam. They do have a YT channel though, perhaps you could find some info there. czcams.com/users/delcamartcam