The Metal Lathe Made With A 3D Printer
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- čas přidán 5. 05. 2024
- Deaf man finds normalize audio button, dozens rejoice.
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Might upload. might not. Again, WIP.
There WILL NOT be a large build guide or instructions for this specific version. The final version will of course have that.
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Minecraft soundtrack
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My name is Chris, I am a 3D printing hobbyist from australia. I dont really specialise in anything specific, but 3D printed tools and tabletop accessories are some things youll probably seen quiet often. I do all my 3d printing on a Ender 3, which I highly recommend as a budget printer. Currently I only run 1 printer but I hope to expand that in the future. Recently acquired a photon 0 to do resin printing with. I like to share all my 3D printing ideas for free although I do plan to sell stuff in the future. Most of my projects will be mostly 3D printed with a few non printed components included, these can often be found on ebay. I actually use the cheapest filament I can get for all my projects, again I hope to change this in the future. - Jak na to + styl
This video needs more footnotes than a Discworld novel.
Some things of note that didnt fit in the video for one reason or another:
-Square gravers are what the watchmakers lathe would use. I ordered some, but they are yet to arrive. Should provide significant advantage
-It has the option to be bolted down. I didn't this video which only really shows during the wood lathe section.
-The drilling option REALLY needs work
Probably some other things idk
Your motor would be able to deliver more of it's power if you put a flywheel on the back of the chuck axel.
For bed extensions - I dont have an idea for the rails themselves but for the printed sections you could print joint-able parts like this: czcams.com/video/WY8yd191qVE/video.html
Today I learned where the scattershot focus in the discworld audiobooks comes from! Time to hit the library and start the series from the top with my eyes instead 😉
Buy the cheapest cordless "massager" (looks like a gun) you can get. 3D print funnels for your openings and fill the with concrete. Vibrate the thing using the massager and the concrete will flow like water. Well, almosr. I use it to liquefy plaster all the time!
I have been told my concreting is "the least satisfying thing on all of youtube" by a friend aha, good tips.
That's a great tip. Have one and everything.
But don't put "massager" on quotation marks, that makes it far worse xD
Might be able to find an old used dental plaster vibrator for cheap as well
@@BernasLL haha, I'll keep that in mind!
If you don't want to buy one of those I'd suggest sitting the wet concrete on top of the washing machine when it is going into it's spin cycle. Some of these new machines have VERY high spinning speeds & I'd bet both top fill & side fill would work.
Use epoxy-granite instead of concrete. It's dimensionally stable, and concrete isn't.
Finally, my dream of desk machining is in reach
Quite literally, "in reach"
Ever heard of a jewelers lathe?
@@XxIcedecknightxX Hadn't heard of a DIY one, personally.
@@Decapent_Tater me niether, good thing he didn't say a DIY one.
Always has been, a sherline is less than a grand. As a bonus, it's not a joke of a badly designed noodle like this thing.
the spindle rigidity is something to really work on, but this is quite inspiring
To make it easier next time for cleaning the concrete, spray some cooking oil on the plastic ( even inside is ok to make it flow to every corner ) first then pour your concrete ( use a tiny squirt of dishsoap to make it flow better in the mix and add a bit more water your mix is very dry and compressive strength does not matter for your purpose ) then wipe the surfaces with a wet rag / paper towel it will come off 10000% easier
Very cool. Have you ever read the Dave Gingery "Build a workshop" series? Book 1 is a foundry for melting aluminum. Book 2 is building a lathe from scratch, largely from aluminum castings using the foundry constructed in book 1. Using a 3d printer to make your casting patterns, I bet someone could follow that book alot more easily than when it was written.
scaner - printers units have nice free stainless rods if u see them for e-waste on the street
I understand if this is just a project in using as much 3d printing as possible but it’s not that useful. Why not strip out an electric drill and make a printed housing for that? It’d be your motor, spindle and chuck all in a much stronger setup. I know this works well because I’ve clamped a drill to a worktop a few times, to turn small parts.
Great idea to scrounge office printers for guide rods and other components!
Use a pastry tube to feed cement accurately. Use something like Tyvec and just roll it into a cone and cut the tip to the right size.
Awesome build man! This is something I originally thought of when building my lathe except with CNC control. Your execution is better than myself. Good work!
masking off the parts you want to keep clean will be easier then cleaning after. true when applying anything thicker than water...
This may have been said elsewhere, but it would be great if you could add a couple of flat portions to the base where you could either clamp the lathe to your workbench or secure it with carriage bolts. That should really tamp down vibration while adding a degree of security.
Great project I really like it ! Make sure to include also a way to clamp or fix it to the bench!
This is so fantastic. I would love to see bolt mounting points to fix to a desk!!
I also wonder what it would look like if you had a mini tool holder with a lead screw to be able to do more precise work !!!
Thanks :) IT does have mounting points I just poorly illustrated it. In hindsite, the extra 40 or so for a cross slide setup could be worth it so ill think about it in the future.
A new challenger in the aluminium pronunciation debate has appeared
Brilliant project. Please find it in your heart to upload😂. I have built a 3d printed CNC, Drill Press, Ball vice, Heat set insert press, belt sander, and was searching for a 3d printed lathe.... None grabbed my interest until I saw your design. Please, please, pretty please upload the files. ❤❤❤❤❤❤
Cheap spray clear-coat does the same, it protects the surface and makes it easier to clean and on darker colors it completely hides layer lines even if you don't fully sand them away(generally just scotchbriting the surface to make the clear-coat stick will still see layer-lines gone with darker filaments)
Would love to see a version where the concrete is more contained, or the base can be mounted down to a bench instead? Maybe just a printable hand rest cover to cover where the concrete is poured in, so you hands aren't rubbing it occasionally?
I have been dreaming for years to make a mini lathe. Yet I came to the same conclusions when just contemplating it, it wont be rigid enough. Now you concreting approach changed that ! Thanks for the inspiration !!!!
Im glad people are getting the takeaway with the concrete. My design is probably a bit over complicated but the basic premise can be applied to so many printed applications
@@Borgedesigns rest assured, if I designed it would be most likely way more complicated. I think yours was pretty simple and elegant for what it does !
Me I would have to add a cross slide and some form of auto feed :).
I was actually thinking of using the 3D as a mold for aluminum casting the base.
Ever see the video of the guy that makes a lathe from traditional tools and techniques? He literally starts with a bow and string and forms each part as he goes. Absolutely amazing. This project is awesome and I'd love to have this in my printing shop. * Would love to study the STL for this, but can't seem to find it on the Thingiverse page...
Love your videos since I saw them... the thing I like the most which sold your channel to me, is minecraft songs playing in the background.
Theres something peacefull and calming in your videos. Good to watch. Keep up the good work
Nice work opening up a new world with 3D printing. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum last week 😎
NICE!!!!!! Next project...a bigger, concrete cement lathe like in the 1919s
I really hope you used taperd roller bearings in the headstock, otherwise there will always be unavoidable wobble on the spindle.
He clearly didn't use tapered roller bearing as the need to be held under a compressive load to work right. i would guess he used common deep groove ball bearings.
@@markcastonguay7906
That does explain the large wobble of the headstock spindle, whenever force is applied in the video.
A bit of an oversight, really.
Love it! Can't wait to see further iterations.
I highly recommend swapping out regular bearings for angular roller/thrust bearings. Regular bearings aren't designed for the load you're putting on them.
I was not expecting concrete lmfao. It’s actually a pretty good idea, just shocking.
Might I make a small recommendation? I see you are using aluminum extrusions and 3D printed plastic for the body of your lathe and steel fasteners to connect everything. I would suggest instead 3D printing the shape of the body of the lathe, and then using it as a positive to make a sand casting mold with. Then you could potentially mill out the portions that need to be precise after casting.
This would allow you to use at least brass, possibly even steel for the body of the lathe, which will greatly improve its functionality.
You can use a relatively makeshift mill using the current designs to do the finishing work on the casting.
Are you saving cement? ))) It made sense to make the headstock and bed three times thicker.
You’re on a decent path, but the runout in the headstock looks pretty bad. It doesn’t seem like headstock volume would be an issue, so I’d go with taper bearings and make it bigger. Also reduce the overhang. Maybe go with a drawbar and collet system. You already have a watchmaker’s lathe with those presumably. I’d also go with a granite epoxy mix instead of concrete. Thin concrete is not very strong.
Hey, great concept, very interesting! You should check out if you haven't seen it the "Turnado" by Eccentric Engineering, it's an accessory for metal lathe to allow free hand, radius and pattern turning. Uses a flat metal plate instead of ways. I think a diy version is exactly what this type of lathe needs.
I think a version with tapered roller bearings with a spindle that can adjust their clearances and some way to reduce the stick out of the collet holder/work pieces would go a long way. Also I think for the drilling bit (tailstock) you need a more rigid/thicker connection to the chuck and mounting to the rest of the lathe.
All in all I would say it has a ton of potential, great work!!
Wow, impressive. I've been big into 3D printing for about 5 years now, but have always wanted my own little benchtop lathe. I recently bought some books on building lathes from scratch using rudimentary casting techniques, and was thinking of using lost PLA casting, but never considered 3D printing a lathe itself! Very cool, I didn't expect this to work as well as it does.
Ive been on the same path as you, good to see the method has some viability. In my experience you really should add some form of fiber reinforcement to the concrete.
Cyano-acrylate glue(super glue) is great with concrete if any fine cracks are formed. It's also good as a surface finish to the exposed concrete parts. This both hinders particles from coming loose and adds surface tensile strength that concrete lacks and hinders cracks to develop in the first place.
Great work man, cant wait to see where you take this thing in the future!
Definitely my favorite 3d pronted lathe yet!
1:45 in, and I feel like this cool project could benefit from 2020 c-channel, instead of two independent 2020 extrusions.
Very nice. I love the idea of the concrete to give mass and resilience to 3d prints. Besides the fact that everything in your video is quite professional, I love that you stay humble and realistic on your project. Bravo and I wish you a lot of success in life in general.
Absolutely wonderful project.
This is really cool! Please, please do upload the files and in a format we can edit. I’ve got most of the pieces to make this sitting around and really want to do my own
If you can turn pens on it, you can bootstrap your way to abetter lathe if you need one.
Great job man! Cannot wait to try this. Just be aware that petroleum jelly and other petroleum based products can break down some plastics and rubber components.
I love what you're doing with exploring 3D printed concrete forms. I feel this technique is vastly underutilized, and it offers incredible strength and precision for a relatively low effort and cost.
cement mixed with general purpose epoxy resin works amazingly well in this sort of application.
This is amazing. Thank you so much for sharing the files, I am definitely going to be making one of these for myself!
Intellegent enough to design this, not intellegent enough to design something to guide the concrete so you don't make a huge mess lmao
Impressive. I have been thinking about a project like this for a while.
This build seems really accessible, would be a lot of fun to try and make one of these!
An interesting idea I just had, if you need precise parts on a lathe like this, you can 3D print flat templates to screw to the tool rest and slide the tool over. It'll require a bit of calibration, but with a pattern parts can be done precisely and, more importantly, reproducibly.
uh-oh. he's using his lathe to upgrede itself.
before you know it, you'll be on machinist youtube with a "real" lathe, a mill and an old mill you're "definitely upgrading into a CNC mill"
Very interesting! Im planning on welding a cnc lathe together fairly soon but ive always considered 3d printing one as well. I do wish you had a proper carriage on it though.
I really like this and I agree you really need some kind of tool holder and if there is any way to make it slide paralel to the spindle, that would be great, even if it's only an inch or so. If you can lock the tool in place (distance from centerpoint) and then slide, it would make a huge difference but IDK how hard that would be.
I would be almost more excited to see a copying/cloning setup (forget what you called it) so you can replicate the shape of other pieces or at least use a profile guide (which could be incorperated with the slide above!!).
How are the vibrations? Would you consider making the base a little heftier & making a bunch of mounting holes where it could be bolted onto some old plate iron or steel? If you want to add more weight while reducing vibration, what about filling the cavity with lead &/or steel shot of various sized (so they "nest") and maybe fill the rest with sand & then sel or cap the openings. I've heard keeping the material loose is best for absorbing vibrations as the movement is transferred into the shot/balls & the move/bounce (hardly observable) dissipating the vibration while actually generating heat! in large systems this type of setup actually needs active cooling from what I've been told (similar to coal catching on fire while in rail cars from the friction from vibration) - so it must be doing something!
Awesome job!
interesting, though I see bit too much deflection on collet
Droopy likes your lathe
Only question: why cement and not shot & epoxy? Seems like it'd be cleaner.
More stability, more concrete!😂 You are crazy, so much better 😂
this is awesome!
Won't petroleum jelly just make all your plastic brittle and ultimately destroy it all?
Brilliant
Next project: 3D printed vertical mill.
salvaged stepper motor to drive a lead screw/belt? could be a nice upgrade.
1:18 I didn't see what kind of washers there were.
Since regular ball bearings have axial play, a little trick needs to be done at this point. The central (or outer) races of two adjacent bearings must be preloaded in opposite directions.
I haven’t figured out how to do this in such a machine yet.
There's still a lot of play, visible in the video
This is a cool project and you've yielded some great results. If the "It doesn't replace this" section being at the beginning , it would have made my eyelid twitch less as a hobbyist machinist who takes himself too seriously.
Bravo!
Very impressive
You've inspired me to draft up my own attempt at something like this, given my junk pile contains many components similar to those in your parts list....
Help me encourage him to upload his design/files because that would be a brilliant basis for mods and improvements!
Now make a 3d printer with it and the cycle will be complete.
Cool!
Awesome video. If it were up to me, I’d make this video an educational standard. Specially tackling the King of Machines, the lathe, of which when created or made is a legacy machine, by default.
0:14 Good video to plug there
Das sieht sehr gut aus, kenne ja schon einige Projekte von dir … wirst du das Projekt auch freigeben zum nachbauen auf Thinki?
Danke für deine Arbeit und Ideen 👍🏻
Awesome work. Maybe it is possible to use bismuth as the weight? Just pour and weight for it harden....
3D printed ball-vise mount for lathe when?
hi. What is the name of your watch on your hand?
What watch was that? It's really cool looking
What do you think about a typical 775 motor in this usecase? Does it have enough power?
Maybe change gear ratio to reduce speed of spindle?
Another question, why didn't you mount the headstock to the extrusions themselves?
Is the printed handle stl file available?
i now need to make my own and push a lego figure into it
I have been making diy machines for a long time. Ive used every matieral known to man. I can tell soon we will all have affordable 3d printed tools. 😢😢😢
i want to make a similar lathe for a time now, so here is a few questions:
How do you make sure that the axle of the rotation is paralel to the bed? Or it is not as important?
Also the motor pulling on the axle could get it out of paralel
I picked up a cheap rotational tool, like dremel and planning to use that as the motor. It has speed control and I plan to get some geared belt. any thoughts?
I also sourced the cast iron base of an old sewing maching, and planning to use it as a base, so it does not move around while using it, like yours did :D
since it's a hand machine, as long as the bearings are concentric, the bed being exactly parallel probably doesn't matter much.
if you're talking about the die grinders that take like a 3-4mm shaft, be careful, they are often running at like 20k+rpm, so an 8 to 1 or so reduction may be needed, and even then on the low end you're looking at 5k rpm, which is still 625 rpm with an 8 to 1. imo a 0-3000 rpm drill might be more appropriate and doesn't need any gear reduction (and you can still get one for like 20 euro)
his moved cause it wasn't bolted down, but it can be.
@@satibel Im talking about those rotary sanders, cutters, used to carve in wood or engrave into metal. not as powerfull as a die grinder, but still has a lot of rpm and I will need reduction and I hope that will give me more tourqe. Look up dremel 3000. what I have is a no-brand knok of but pretty similar in power.
What I need a lathe for is more of a precision work like making mini screws or pins with custom treads so I fear that my bed setup needs to be more precise.
@@zozozoli yeah that's what I meant, apparently die grinder is usually used for the higher power versions and rotary tool for the one you have.
but my point still stand, the range might be a bit of an issue unless you have swappable gears, the dremel 3000 does 5k-35k rpm .
though if you use 2 5:1 stages, that'd work as you can simply swap one to a 3:1 or 2:1 if you need higher speed.
basically you'd want something like a 300-5k rpm range if you wanna do steel from what I looked at, so 7:1, maybe 5:1 for the highest speed, and 20:1 for the lowest
so a 4:1 fixed and a swappable 1.75 - 5:1
so a 16T into a 80T|20T swap and a 16:64
(using GT2 belts)
@@satibel thats a good idead to have extra gears so i can change on the go
Thanky for the info and your toughts!
Instead of concrete, why not use epoxy granite? It dampens vibrations pretty well apparently.
I'd say cost and availability, though you may want to add fiber and polymer to the concrete as a middle ground to make it more resistant to vibration.
With need a variable speed motor, and probably a way to tranform it into a CNC.
But the cost would not be worth it if you don't have all you need on hand.
Interesting project, i really want to build a lathe one day but i need at least the equivalent of the Chinese 700€ machine to be worth it.
It seemed to move around, could you fix it to the table?
Используй шприцы для заливки раствора и вибростол
I love your projects but I aint messing around with a 3D printed lathe 😅
You need a tool post, there is no way to precisely move the tool.this is basically a wood lathe.
What resin did you use? How rigid does the plastic need to be?
Doesn't look like there is any resin here.
@@osmanpasha96 resin is a generic term for plastics
@@CarterSchonwald Do you have any sources? I've only heard it mean photopolymer resin or epoxy resin or resins from wood, but none of plastics you print on an FDM machine ever called resins.
Per Wikipedia: resin is a solid or highly viscous substance of plant or synthetic origin that is typically convertible into polymers
If you look at the pellet / raw plastic manufacture datasheets, they often refer to each plastic formulation as a resin
@@CarterSchonwald The problem is that wikipedia is lacking context. Within the realm of 3d printing, resin is used in stereolithography printing and filament is used in fused deposition modelling. If you go around asking for resin to use in a FDM printer, you'll get the looks. Doesn't matter what wikipedia says.
You should reduce the speed of the motor and convert that into torque, as high speed increases the heat and eventually damages the tool.
If the motor actually had any usable torque it would twist this toy in half.
Nice :)
Opinions:
1 lathe still needs more rigidity, more regidiity more accurate cuts. I think this could be done by using a larger, tempered steel rod for the moter to attach to.
2 the sewing machine moter could be replaced with a larger industrial sewing machine moter
the lack of rigidity comes from the bearings, that level of deflexion is impossible just pushing it by hand with the available lever. they are general ball ones with large play. if you really want more rigidity you need a bigger axle diameter (as you said), but also one expensive cylindrical roller bearing the closest to the chuck, and a trust bearing at the end of the bearing stack for drilling.
other cheaper and more painful option would be micro adjust the concentricity of the roller bearings so every play cancel out. and you have a precise bearing out of not-precise bearings.
Until a 3d printed lathe can turn large diameter threads I wont make one.
CarbonFiber
Normalize audio 🤣
link pz
so funny to see people try to redesign a machine with billion of proven hours of success.
It’s not about “redesigning” but about designing an inexpensive way to build one at home using spare parts. Sure it will never compete with an industrial machine but for a hobbyist it could open up whole new worlds without breaking the bank.
To much play from the chuck whenever you put force on the part.
Hello. It was a joy to see your machine work! I see you made most parts from plastic. If you ever have a need for metal 3D printed components, please reach out. We are a startup metal 3D printing company looking to offer metal 3D printing at an affordable price! We can print in 17-4PH / 630 Stainless Steel.
finally concrete filled 3d prints being used.
it's something I've been using for a bit, but I don't see much talk about.
though imo it's often easier to make a 3d printed skeleton and use molds made from old furniture, corrugated signs or plexiglass. (corrugated sales signs are great for curves, and you can often get them for free, another option is cling film or tape on cardboard.)
something that works well to settle the concrete is a massage gun.
something that might make the machine way more useful would be a double head so you can turn screws
put your master screw in the driving head, which screws in the carriage that has a nut, and then crank the handle bit by bit advancing the tool each time till you cut the threads to the desired depth.
that doesn't give you arbitrary screws but should allow you to cut standard metric threads easily. (0.5, 0.75, 1, 1.25, and 1.5 for M4-M10)
you'd probably add an endstop, that can just be a normally closed switch, or could be wired to an arduino and have a stepper set the depth of the cutter so you can do multiple passes.
that would probably add like 50 bucks, but making custom screw threads may be quite useful.
also something that might be interesting would be adding a magnetic position sensor and an offset drill on the endstock, so you can do holes at somewhat precise spots. or if you already have a rail for the screw making, you could make a holder for a motor with a ball nose endmill and cut GT2 pulleys.
This is super sketch, i recon if you dont make a cross side you'll can kiss your wrists goodbye once the tool catches on the part. For metal working anyways.
I love seeing 3d printing fusion with traditional machining, but please be aware that these machine tools are death machines, even at this scale. Please be careful.
That's exactly why you'd want to use a slow-moving or -spinning object under the tool head of a milling machine.
Cool project, friend, but the video is bait. You didn't create a metal lathe with 3D printing but rather a 3D printed cover for your handmade metal lathe...