TPS SENSOR is required and a Critical Input to the Computer. TPS sensor detects the Throttle P,ate angle position, therefore the Computer then responds with the correct amount of fuel via the fuel injectors. TPS is monitoring your foot on the accelerator pedal, Critical input and is required to be set at approximately 0.9 Vdc and Base Idle setting MUST be correct. Thanks for your video.
Should be able to block off holes with your fingers and drop the idle hopefully . My 86 started idleing at 2k rpm other day and it was surging before as well and dyeing when cold
Heres the deal...The IAC isnt calibrated as a unit...The calibration is done in the tune and what youre doing by advancing and changing things is tricking the ECU and messing with engine load , spark advance/retard and also fuel delivery timing of the fuel injectors..... Look up what ITHBMA does and why 10* of timing and a TPS setting of .098 unless changed in the ECU physically is important because of a lil thing called a checksum number........... Its very true that all IAC's leak alot of extra air when fully closed but whats funny is the IAC never fully closes however as its not suposed to see anything lower than 30% duty cycle at any given time....If it does that means the timing is advanced and the t-stop screw has been altered.. Thse plates are a temp fix as when you go to the ISC transfer settings theres a finetune function where you have to do a procedure to dial in the plate to get proper airflow........ If youre the type like me that wants the IAC to operate as intended with better accuracy heres what you do.. Pop the crimped on metal endcap off the IAC by using some finesse and also remove the electric solenoid... Unscrew the nylon plug with o-ring seal from the spot the metal cap covered... Pull out pintle and take a bevel bit tool and create a small bevel where the pintle plug rests then use lapping compound to lap them totally sealed shut.. On the end of the pintle shaft that goes up into the IAC solenoid you need to clipoff a very small amount to compensate for the bevelling and lapping of the pintle plug or it will always be forced open by the electric IAC solenoid.. Pull out pintle and clean both pieces then take the spring and stretch it out an inch longer than stock and put it all back together making sure the nylon seal and o-ring bottom out all the way and the o-ring on the IAC solenoid is there before reassemblng that.. When you plug one hole and give it a suction test youll find absolutely the most finite of a leak to zero..... The next things you need to do is get an MSD timing advance/retardcontroller for the EEC computer and install it but put the distributor back to 10* btdc... Aslong as the pip signal is pulsing at the right time as per the distributor altering the timng via the knob doesnt mess with ECU settings but advances/retards timing up to a full 15* or a 7.5/7.5 split.. If you have an A9L computer and a 5speed stick 5.0 engine you must also take note to see if you have 22kohms on pin #4 coming from the ECU plug going to the IDM circuit on the TFI module pin.....If you have an auomatic with A9P the resistor is inside the TFI module and is CCD controlled but the resistance for a 5 speed is very important as it quiets down the noise by limiting the power it gets through the IDM circuitry........
TPS SENSOR is required and a Critical Input to the Computer. TPS sensor detects the Throttle P,ate angle position, therefore the Computer then responds with the correct amount of fuel via the fuel injectors. TPS is monitoring your foot on the accelerator pedal, Critical input and is required to be set at approximately 0.9 Vdc and Base Idle setting MUST be correct. Thanks for your video.
Made a gasket out of cork made small holes and it worked runs amazing almost brought it to a mechanic thank you
great video ! nice explanation good camera views and explanation
Thanks for posting man, sadly didnt get more views but very helpful, hopefully fixes my surging idle
So I have a stock air filter set up. When I rev my rpms, my check engine come on and off. Could this be the problem?
Very helpful thank you
Should be able to block off holes with your fingers and drop the idle hopefully . My 86 started idleing at 2k rpm other day and it was surging before as well and dyeing when cold
Where was the “test” part? Other than blowing in it
My 89mustang is surging pretty bad.... cat figure it out blah....
Ever figure it out?
Not yet sadly no... did a base idle reset and replaced my vacuum lights along with my fuel filter. I’m running out of options lol...
Vacuum lights?
@@GreenToFeelBlue 😂😂😂
Heres the deal...The IAC isnt calibrated as a unit...The calibration is done in the tune and what youre doing by advancing and changing things is tricking the ECU and messing with engine load , spark advance/retard and also fuel delivery timing of the fuel injectors.....
Look up what ITHBMA does and why 10* of timing and a TPS setting of .098 unless changed in the ECU physically is important because of a lil thing called a checksum number...........
Its very true that all IAC's leak alot of extra air when fully closed but whats funny is the IAC never fully closes however as its not suposed to see anything lower than 30% duty cycle at any given time....If it does that means the timing is advanced and the t-stop screw has been altered..
Thse plates are a temp fix as when you go to the ISC transfer settings theres a finetune function where you have to do a procedure to dial in the plate to get proper airflow........
If youre the type like me that wants the IAC to operate as intended with better accuracy heres what you do..
Pop the crimped on metal endcap off the IAC by using some finesse and also remove the electric solenoid...
Unscrew the nylon plug with o-ring seal from the spot the metal cap covered...
Pull out pintle and take a bevel bit tool and create a small bevel where the pintle plug rests then use lapping compound to lap them totally sealed shut..
On the end of the pintle shaft that goes up into the IAC solenoid you need to clipoff a very small amount to compensate for the bevelling and lapping of the pintle plug or it will always be forced open by the electric IAC solenoid..
Pull out pintle and clean both pieces then take the spring and stretch it out an inch longer than stock and put it all back together making sure the nylon seal and o-ring bottom out all the way and the o-ring on the IAC solenoid is there before reassemblng that..
When you plug one hole and give it a suction test youll find absolutely the most finite of a leak to zero.....
The next things you need to do is get an MSD timing advance/retardcontroller for the EEC computer and install it but put the distributor back to 10* btdc...
Aslong as the pip signal is pulsing at the right time as per the distributor altering the timng via the knob doesnt mess with ECU settings but advances/retards timing up to a full 15* or a 7.5/7.5 split..
If you have an A9L computer and a 5speed stick 5.0 engine you must also take note to see if you have 22kohms on pin #4 coming from the ECU plug going to the IDM circuit on the TFI module pin.....If you have an auomatic with A9P the resistor is inside the TFI module and is CCD controlled but the resistance for a 5 speed is very important as it quiets down the noise by limiting the power it gets through the IDM circuitry........