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EVERY MAINTENANCE ITEM: Mercury/Tohatsu 4HP/5HP/6HP 4-Stroke Outboard
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- čas přidán 15. 08. 2024
- We walk through every maintenance activity in the manual plus a carb removal and cleaning!
For million $$$ sponsorships (or just wanna chat) hit me up at skinnyriveroutdoors@gmail.com
See safety items below!
Always refer to your own owner’s and service manual!
Safety First! Make sure gas valve is closed and all gas is drained from lines in a safe manner away from all heat sources (garage heater and incandescent bulbs). Ideally entire system is drained or ran dry.
Make sure motor is secure and cannot tip over and make sure trim tilt is locked
Motor and oil gets hot! Make sure motor is cool before doing any maintenance
Inspect all gas lines and carb for gas leaks after reinstalling
If you have an electric start, unhook it before working
Work in well ventilated area
Prop edges can be sharp, wear gloves.. Lesson learned!
Things pop off and fly, good idea to wear glasses.
Oil is slick
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My attempt to do EVERY maintenance item in the manual (full service) PLUS removing and cleaning the carburetor (carb removal and disassembly) on my 6HP Mercury four-stroke outboard.
All maintenance items are the same for Mercury 4HP, 5HP and 6HP 4-stroke outboards and Tohatsu 4HP, 5HP and 6HP 4-stroke outboards.
Here are the maintenance activities with timestamps so you can jump to one:.
00:00 - Intro
00:57 - Motor oil change
04:11 - Spark plug change:
06:05 - Impeller removal and replacement
08:20 - Driveshaft removal and inspection
16:23 - Prop removal and inspection
18:27 - Prop edge filing repair
24:50 - Fuel filter replacement
26:08 - Carburetor removal, disassembly, and cleaning
Lower end unit gear oil change
Fittings greasing
WON'T START!!!
Test drive!
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Disclaimer: Use at your own risk. SAFETY FIRST! Always read your own owner's manual and service manual and understand all safety items for your specific boat and motor. I am not an expert mechanic. All of the information I share is for entertainment purposes only. Consult your boat and motor's manufacturer, owner's manual and service manual for expert advice. Boating and repairing/maintaining a boat motor can be dangerous. Please make sure you fully understand all risks involved so you do not get injured or worse. Once again, all content on this channel is for entertainment only. Please only attempt any of the things in these videos unless you have adequate skill, have fully read the owner's manual and service manual, and even then continue at your own discretion and risk. I am not responsible for your boat, motor, and am not responsible for keeping you safe.
Below is a list of safety items, any corrections and tips/tricks. Comment below and I’ll keep a list here:
Safety First! Make sure gas valve is closed and all gas is drained from lines in a safe manner away from all heat sources (garage heater and incandescent bulbs). Ideally entire gas system is drained or ran dry.
Motor and oil gets HOT. Let motor cool before any maintenance.
Make sure motor is secure and cannot tip over and make sure trim tilt is locked
Inspect all gas lines and carb for gas leaks after reinstalling
If you have an electric start, unhook it before working
15:40 - said counterclockwise meant clockwise
31:25 - said phillips meant flathead
Tip - Shift to reverse prior to removing lower end unit. Allows for easier access to link coupling.
Tip - When reattaching the lower end unit, remove the rubber grommet that the shift rod goes through for easier reassembly.
Tip - If drive shaft is hard to reinstall, turn the prop to help shaft seat back into motor (helps align spline gear with motor)
Tip: replace lower end unit oil screw plug gaskets/grommets every time
Tip: look for fishing line wrapped around prop shaft. It can prevent a good seal when reinstalling the prop and allow water into lower end unit
Tip: do not let carb cleaner touch rubber or plastic gaskets or parts
Just a tip. I used to work as an aircraft mechanic on propeller driven aircraft. After taking a file to the propeller use some smooth hard metal (i.e. the side of your socket extension) to press hard and rub against all the areas you filed. This will burnish the surface and make it smooth and harden the aluminium against further wear. Also...technically speaking you should remove the same amount of metal from all blades to keep it in balance.
hello mate, i'm a marine engineer working on a container vessel. we have this kind of engine onboard, used as our rescue boat engine. this maintenance video really enlightens me in lots of aspect. much appreciated for your hardwork (:
Thank you, that really means a lot. It’s a simple motor but I’m still learning a lot myself! Thank you for the view, support and taking time to comment.
I just want to say thank you from the bottom of my heart. I have 0 mechanical skills but because of your video I was able to clean clean my cooperator and get my motor running again. Thank you so much.
Awesome! Thank you for the kind words. I’m still learning as well, it’s a fun and sometimes frustrating journey :) buts it’s a great little hobby and worth it when you are out on the water.
I had to remove and install my carburetor on my 15 hp Tohatsu while hanging off the back of my sailboat I envy you for having a garage and a smaller more portable engine 🤣🤣..great video ! Learned alot about the lower unit !
That lower end unit is a pain to reinstall. You have to blindly line like 5 things up. I’d love a 15 Hp Tohatsu! Sounds like you have a good setup
Great job making this video. Very thorough. The popup information boxes are perfect. Thank you!
Your a real pro and just great advice with actual involvement. I am going ahead and purchasing a 6hp very soon because of your video's and the reliability that you confirm. I appreciate your work and time that you have placed here on line to help others! Much Appreciated Joe!
Thanks for the view and positive comments, they mean a lot to me! Thank you so much and good luck with the new motor. Hope you enjoy it as much as I have!
Thank-you so much for this vid.....brilliant. I'm no spannerhead but your approach and explanations are so clear that I had no hesitation in doing a full service on my ageing Tohatsu with just a few basic tools. Keep up the great work - you don't know how much it helps! The afternotes are really thoughtful and so helpful and show what a professional you are.
Thanks! I really appreciate the view, kind words and support! If you ever have any questions or video ideas let me know!
Dang man, that was a lot of work! Thanks for walking through all of that step by step.
Thanks appreciate the view!
Thanks so much for this, you dispel lots of the mystery that surrounds opening up a motor, much appreciated and love your candor.
Thanks brother! I appreciate the view and support. I definitely learned a lot through doing this
I asked a question about my carburetor on one of your last videos and this video answered all my questions. Thanks a ton
Awesome, I appreciate the view!
You are a born teacher. I have a 2004 Tohatsu running rough, will need some work this winter. Thanks!
Thank you, I really appreciate it! Good luck, let me know how it’s running this spring
Fantastic video, gave me the insight I needed to change my Mariner 6 impellor here in the UK, especially direction of the blades and that tiny pin, thank you very much
Awesome, I appreciate the view and comment. Thanks for the support and good luck
@@Skinnyriver Just done the pump all went well but the water pipe from pump to engine become dislodged when I removed the gearbox and can't see where the pipe goes at the top, is it a strip down now to refit at the top?
Great job! This is a thoughtful, helpful video. I especially appreciate that you took time to explain the few mistakes you made and went on to show how you fixed them .
Thank you for the view and taking time to comment. I really appreciate the support! good luck with your motor!
Great video thanks!
Thank you, appreciate the view!
Skinny River, you convinced me.
Bought the Mercury 6HP motor and this video will help take good care of this motor.😊
Hope you enjoy it, let me know how it goes!!!
I've bought the same motor few days ago, definitely this video is in my saved list, thank you for sharing 👍👍👍👍
Nice! Hope you enjoy it. Loving mine
Just serviced my 6hp thanks to you ! Will give it a test tomorrow. Replacing the stern drive and linkage is testing..... i un screwed the 10mm linkage too much and it fell out tricky to put back long pliers . Doing this again i would drain the engine oil first and not re fill until the gear box and drive is back on then fill with oil. I needed to have the engine horizontal at head height so i could alighn everything. So glad i atempted this, the impeller did need changing and all the stainless-steel bolts were well seized in the castings . I am on a small island south England and very grateful to you. Merry Christmas to you !
Awesome job! Merry Christmas
Great stuff! Thanks for posting! I learned a lot - only tip I can offer is you can jiggle both your choke and throttle linkages off without removing them. Once you take the two main carb bolts out, and can freely move the body of the carb around, no need to remove that throttle linkage.
Awesome points that simplifies it a lot. More steps I can eliminate, the better. , I’ll definitely try this next time.
Wood block between the prop and bottom of anti ventilation plate helps when tightening or losening a prop.
Great editing. Made the video easy to watch. Thank you.
Thanks for the view and kind words!
You absolute legend 🙌 👏. Awesome video mate! You got your self a new subscriber from down under.
Awesome!!! Thanks heap mate! Cheers
Great content sir have exact kicker on my boat. Bought from guy who left gas in carb for 2 years, so you know how that goes. Appreciate..
Thanks for the the view and support. Good luck with your motor!
You give good and sage advice on changing the impeller every season; I don't, as the first thing I check for when I start the motor is the tell tale. In the 2 times I have replaced the impeller on my '95 8HP Mariner, I have done it after seeing no water out the tell tale after start up. I believe if very unlikely that the impeller will fail after seeing good stream on start up and it's failure shows primarily on start up folloiwng one trip to the next one.
This is how everyone should make these type of videos good stuff man
Thanks man, I appreciate the kind words. Thanks!
Just bought a sailboat and it came with a RIB dinghy and the 2003 version of this motor. Hasn't run in a couple of years so I'll bring it to the Mercury dealer for servicing but good to know that going forward I can handle these maintenance tasks myself. Thanks for the vid.
Awesome let me know how you like it
Thank you so much for this excellent video it totally gave me the confidence to tackle troubleshooting my 4 stroke. Really appreciate the quality of production it’s clear that a lot of thought and care went into making this and it’s a tremendous resource. THANK YOU
Thank you for the view and support! I’m not a pro mechanic but enjoy messing with these little motors. Hope it helped some. Thanks again!
Loved it - so real and relatable. Gave me the confidence to pull the carb in a few days - mine (same engine) is tough to cold start - work up a sweat. But, once it's warmed up, it takes one pull. Thank you!
I have 100% confidence in this motor, always 1 pull if warm BUT cold starting is a pain! I think cleaning the carb helped but have only been out twice since i cleaned it (started on 3rd and 4th pull). Still to early to tell. It’s worth cleaning and kinda fun. Let me know how it goes!! Other than cleaning, I have researched this issue a lot and below is what I have come across:
* Everyone agrees it’s a fuel supply issue.
* It’s either contamination in the carb or just inherent to the motor due to strict EPA regs and need for small idle carb jet size to meet regs
* Always run ethanol free gas or use ethanol treatment
* Always use fuel stabilizer
* fuel pump and carb is above the bottom of gas tank, always start with full tank to help ‘push’ gas through to the carb
* open fuel supply valve a few mins before trying to start to allow gas to fill system
* some people pull the stop lanyard and give it a pull to get gas in the cylinder , then put the lanyard back in to pull and start
* a couple people pulled the cap on the fuel/air mixture screw and turned it to increase the gas (more rich) and swears it helped
* some people say put throttle at 3/4 with full choke
* some people say run the carb dry every time
lol who knows
Did everything but the carburetor today- thank you for pointing out that little pin in the impeller housing. It fell out and I would have missed it completely 🙏🏻👍🏻
Awesome! Good deal, glad everything went well. Let me know if you decide to clean the carb and if it helps with cold starting.
Let engine sit a few days. Tried to cold start- very difficult. After 20 pulls, I gave up and started to diagnose the problem. After checking the usual suspects, I pulled the fuel pump outlet line and no fuel was coming out when I tried to start the engine. The pump wasn’t primed; having only 1/4 tank of fuel probably didn’t help. I blew into the fuel tank until fuel came out of the disconnect fuel pump line. I reconnected and it fired up after two pulls. I think the fuel pump loses its prime when it sits for a while- even after closing the fuel cap vent and fuel supply line. I’ll try again in a few days.
@@stevewarner1575 did you fix it sir?
bro. you really are out here doing God's work.
lol thanks
Awesome job !! I can't thank you enough. I've never worked on a outboard until now and you made it a piece of cake changing the impeller. Many Thanks !!!!!
Good deal!! Make sure you double check the water flow when you take it out. The fastest way to ruin an outboard is to run it without cooling water. Had a buddy that didn’t align everything back up perfect and wasn’t getting any flow so always good to triple check you are getting flow. Thanks for the view!!!
@@SkinnyriverHuge difference changing impeller. W/O your video I would have been lost, a friend gave me this 5 HP for my dinghy,, he said only had 10 hours, ..runs good but stream was low.. ran it in a big tub of water, and it flows water great now. Couldn't have done it so fast without you, a sincere thanks to you for taking the time to make video. God Bless you!!
Great! Thanks again for the support! Time to hit the water!!!
I am in the same boat as you... LOL... Very handy but never tackled boat tune ups or impeller changes!! This video was perfect and very detailed. Going to give it a shot myself and save some $$$$ I already changed out the lower unit and upper unit oil as well as spark plug. I am like you, take it slow and do it right!!! Great job for a 1st time!!
Awesome! Love the little setup I have. Glad the vid helped a little thanks for the support
Just got a used 4hp one and was waiting for you to get to the checking of valve clearence, it's a 4 stroke so I think that is something to check at least every few years when you put as many hours on the motor as you do ;)
I’ve been really interested in this topic. Overall it seems really simple but I hear conflicting “advice” about the actual need to check this at xx hrs and the service manual doesn’t really say either (unless I overlooked it). So basically I’m scared to mess with it :) BUT here is the absolutely the best video I have seen for outboard valve adjustments. It’s on a Honda outboard but really worth a watch czcams.com/video/aVBWNAhs3XU/video.html
Engine saving video. On our last trip, the cooling water started to reduce drastically. Thanks to your video we managed to swap the impeller at the next stop and now she's spitting more water then ever. Couldn't have done it without your guidance. Next up will be the carb :D.
Awesome thanks for the view. How was it getting the lower unit back on? It took me forever to get everything lined back up
Getting it back on went surprisingly well. I did have an extra pair of hands though, which definitely helped. Taking the lower unit off on the other hand did require a hammer to get involved. It was pretty stuck
@@Skinnyriver- Big Rodders in Ireland here. I'm not unfamiliar with refitting bottom ends but my recently acquired Mercury 4 really frustrated me. The problem was that the shaft wouldn't mate with the crankshaft despite using brute force and guile. I ended up taking off the entire powehead, which enabled me to refit the bottom end and then replace the powerhead. I've since removed and replaced the bottom end no problem so it must have been one of life's little mysteries.
Great comprehensive instructional video! Really enjoyed watching it and I picked up some really good tips. Some suggestions. When replacing the lower unit gear oil always replace the washers on both the drain screw and vent screw. Washers are inexpensive. I once had one fail. Lake water went into the lower unit and lower unit oil went into the lake. That can lead to bad things to happen to the lower unit. I would loosen the drain screw on the bottom of the carb to drain any fuel in the bowl of the carb (then re-tighten the drain screw) before carb removal. You did mention near the end of the video that the fuel lines were empty when the carb was removed - so good! Draining fuel should be an explicit step before proceeding with carb removal. When starting the engine for the first time after putting the carb back - visually check the carb for any fuel leaks with the engine running. The gaskets can become worn or accidentally damaged. A leaking carb is a potential fire hazard. Glad to see your engine running great!
Awesome points, I’ll add these to my pinned comment listing any errors in the vid and additional tips!
Skinny River, I found a website that had all the replacement parts i needed to clean the carb, change the gaskets and also replace the impeller. If it was not for your detailed video and how you spoke about the mistakes you made it would have made this a bit more challenging. I went back to the video a couple of times because when I put the lower unit back into place it to knocked my gear out of reverse. I did have to use a tool that had some metal(Chisel) in order to push down the metal post in order to get it back into reverse. Also, that impeller I replaced was in pieces. makes sure you clean out the debris before installing the new one, there were fragments all inside. One other thing, not a bad idea to run a wire of some sort up inside the water housing to loosen up any dirt that may be clogging the Pisser line. Mine was a little clogged.. Thanks again for such an informative video!!!!! Motor now purrs like a kitten!!!..
Awesome!! Great points!! I’ll add some of those to the list of corrections/additions to my pinned comment. Glad you caught that damage impeller. I was lucky and mine was still intact. But yeah debris will def hinder water circulation and could damage your motor (clog water channels in block) GOOD POINT. Reinstalling the lower end unit was Challenging getting everything line back up. It sucked lol. Glad your motor is running well. I’m learning a lot thanks!!!
@@Skinnyriver You saved me some money for sure. I am one of those guys that will try anything to save a few $$$$.... Thanks again.....
Just bought one of these as well. A 2013. Thank you for the details and step by step! Going to do all but the carb on mine before I take it out on the water! 🤞
Awesome! Let me know how it goes and how she runs!
Love this video . Perfect for all seasons service . Love the disclaimer you know more than most but we are all learning as we go along....many thanks 😊 🙏
Thanks man, I appreciate the view and support!
Just picked up a used 5hp model. I need to check everything on it and perform a full tune up so thanks for the video.
Let me know how you like it!!!
Appreciate the video. I'm about to do the 4 to 6hp upgrade on my Mercury 4-Stroke and this definitely provided some needed info on the carb removal, and prop-swap. Thanks!
Awesome, let me know how the HP upgrade goes. I’m really curious how much of a difference it makes and if it is simply swapping the carb or if there is a bit more to it. Thanks!
It's simply the carb. Engines are identical in the 4-5-6hp versions. I did mine a while ago and the swap was as easy as it could be. Motor runs strong, but I believe a prop change might be necessary for better use of power as they come with different pitch props from factory as well.
Absolutely agree, I think the 4hp uses a lower pitch prop to get better acceleration power
Thanks for taking the time and effort to make a very clear and educational video. It is just what I needed. Take care.
Thanks! I appreciate the view! Took mine out for the first time this season and had a blast! Have fun!
I bought a Solo Skiff a month or so ago and it has the Tohatsu 6hp on it. Seems to run okay but could use a tune up. I have worked on outboards some but this is absolutely perfect and what I needed right now. Thanks for doing this and showing us so we don't have to make stupid mistakes!! Also, the items in the list to complete this is awesome! No excuses now so fun times ahead for me this weekend! LOL!
Awesome! Thanks for the view. Sounds like you have an amazing setup!
@@Skinnyriver Thanks! I forgot to put it in my first message bit I am definitely a subscriber now!!
I went from a Sun Dolphin 10' sit on top kayak to a Vibe Sea Ghost paddler, to an Old Town PDL pedal kayak, and now to a Solo Skiff. Selling my 15 Boston Whaler center console because the small boat is easier and more fun too. Went out this morning and nailed the redfish, trout, and some not as exciting fish as well. BUT, the motor needs a little TLC so finding your video/channel saved me from making up some new curse words I am sure. LOL! Take care! --Brent
Thanks. This is exactly what I was seeking. I am going to tackle this project.
Awesome thanks for the view, let me know how it goes. I’ll try to help in anyway I can
I'm in the market for an small outboard and glad I came across your page. Thanks for the tips!!
Awesome good deal! Let me know which one you get.
One of the best videos, the expert mechanics would learn from you on how to present the subject - now i feel ready to do the same on my 6hp
Thank you so much. That means more than you know to me. Thanks!
I also feel the same way
@@nancyn3863 thank you so much! I appreciate the view!
Thanks for this. It really helped me out.
Might be worth noting to remove the little rubber gromet that the shift rod goes through when reattaching the lower unit. Makes it a bit easier.
Also, i always put both ends in reverse gear, that makes the link easier to reach. Also, if the splines of the driveshaft don't line up, you can turn the prop a bit (in reverse direction) to line them up.
Awesome points, I’ll put them in my pinned comment for tips and tricks. Thanks
A bit after the event, but a tip if using outboards with aluminium props (applies tomother boats with aluminium props too ), a lot in seawater, for example with a yachts regularly used tender, is paint the Prop with Cold galvanising Zinc Paint. You can get 96% Zinc Content in a Silicone carrier, in 1kg tins, wgich is quite thick and doesnt need stirring to brush or roller on, which seems best value, probably 2 coats is enough, and lesser concentrations in aerosol Cans, which are quite cheap, me, I think I'll try 2 thick coats and use an aerosol one as a sort of sealer coat ? I found out about it on sailing forums, and Expensive Marine versions are identical to the Land use ones. Apart from being an a non Toxic antifoul, it is Also an galvanic anode, which helps protect your Prop and aluminium outboard leg, plus could well help your expensive Anodes last longer - heck I'll even try painting them. tbh, I think it's that paint surface galvanic erosion, that does the antifouling work ? As the paint wears down, just a quick prep, and slap some more cold galvanising paint on . I might try it as a complete antifouling on my boat tbh, just for the heck of it. Best Wishes. Bob. 👍
That’s a really good idea. I think I’ll give that a shot. Sounds super easy
I did notice that the fuel bowl was on wrong you should’ve turned it back 180° so the fuel drain plug can be opened.. This is a very easy mistake you will notice it if you decide to drain the fuel bowl. I was writing this at the same time I was watching your video and then towards the end you found the mistake. I wanted to let you know it’s a great video and you did a wonderful job very good details and good information.
Yeah rookie mistake on my end. I didn’t do a good job editing to make it clear I turned the bowl the right way (I should have included the clip of me swapping the bowl around) but i cut it on accident. Thanks for the view and support! I definitely learned a lot making this video. A lot of frustration to lol :)
Great video helped me with fuel pump delays, only sugestion for impeller advice is key. A profiled not round key shoud be fitted, a common mistake given suppliers insist a round key is needed. On some models that is correct, but check if you have the flat on drive shaft or a hole, that will determine the exact at times difficault part you need. The correct key is half round half flat
Great points thanks
Once again “ Thanks for another great video “.
I have learned a lot watching 😂
I have the same motor. Great little pusher.
Thanks again for the support. What size boat do you have the 6hp on?
I have a 14’ Jon boat.
Great video, big thanks! Just bought a boat with a Mercury 6 hp and this is perfect!
Awesome! Hope you enjoy the motor!
Like the close up and detail diy
I sure appreciate it 😊👍
Thanks for the view!! Hope the vid helped a little bit!
Man I appreciate this video. Just bought a like new dihatau 4hp for my Porta bote. I had no clue where to start. So thankful for you and this video 🙏🏿
Awesome hope you get something from the vid! Thanks for the view
If that was your first time doing those jobs, you sure did a lot better than I did!
Man I edited a lot of stuff out you didn’t see :)
Thank you, I have problem with that throtle wire from carburetor on Tohatsu 6hp which is almost same like Mercury. I have put it wrong direction and it's keep falling off. I go on youtube then I found this video 🙂 thanks one more time to put some effort to make this video and help so much people who are not engineers and show that anyone can do it. Best regards from Croatia 👍
Thanks you for the view and support. I hope you live the tohatsu!! If you have problem please ask and I will try to help!!
I don’t advise starting with your cowl off the engine. I did that before and the cord ripped out of my hand and swung around and busted my idle screw off the carb lol. But love the video man!
That’s a good point, never thought about that. Thanks
sorry for laughing when it didn't start lol ....good simple instructions, I will be maintaining my own motor now thanks .
lol I would laugh too if I was watching. I was crying though :) 2 days of trying not to mess something up while filming and then it doesn’t start lol.. all part of it when you have a boat. Thanks for the view and the support!
Thanks for the video and thanks for sharing your nervousness about the carburator - it gave me the courage to give it a go!
I took a lot of heat for that comment from some mechanics that watched the video lol. I think the comment was a ‘real man knows how to clean a carb’ lol ... give it a shot and let me know how it goes!
Brilliant. Great talent for making instruction videos. I guess that many have the same thoughts as me. I have a 15 hp evinrude 1985, 3 hp evinrude 1966, 3,5 hp Johnson 2004, 6 hp 4 strokemaintenanceThank for you for that
Thank you so much for the kind words. It means a lot to me. I am hoping to step up to a 15HP one of these years!
Just wanted to mention to anyone else here wishing to save a few dollars on this motor. The 4 hp is identical to the 6 hp with the exception of the carburetor and prop.
While there are kits that cost in the 200+ range, you can also go up to Amazon and buy a carburetor for as little as $71, and a prop in the $50 range.
I was able to pick up a 4 hp for $1290 with free shipping to Alaska. Most vendors are looking at 1700+ for the 6hp, so a nice savings for replacing the carburetor and prop yourself. And I'm sure you could sell both from the 4 hp for a few dollars to help with the cost. Enjoy!
Thanks great point. Also to remind everyone the Tohatsu and Mercury are the same motor made in the Tohatsu factory in Japan (just rebranded). If you want a 6hp Mercury the cheapest route is ti get a 4HP Tohatsu and do what you said get a 6HP carb and the 6HP 8” pitch prop off Amazon. Will save > $500!
Yes, excellent point. I could not find the Tohatsu with a vendor willing to ship for free. Something probably unique to my location here in Alaska. At least we don't have sales tax-lol. The 7 inch prop may be beneficial to certain boats as well from the 4hp. I'm curious if have you gone beyond the 8 inch prop of the 6hp? If so, what were the results?
I haven’t, they have 1 size bigger than the 8” (8 3/8” diameter x 9” pitch) but I think that one would have a hard time planing for most Jon boats. If you have a super light boat that one might be good but what I have heard most boats need the 8” or 7”. Most people go down to the 7” because you get more power and better acceleration with the lower pitch. However it lowers your top speed by a couple mph.
Great honest look at the repairs!
Thanks for the view and comment! I appreciate it
Hi Skinney - it's Big Rodders in Ireland. I enjoyed your video. My only suggestion would be for you to emphasise that carb cleaner should never be used on rubber as it causes it to swell. I noticed that the rubber seal around your float chamber had enlarged, most likely from exposure to the alcohol.
Great pt thanks!
I added that to a pinned comment thanks
Great video and it helped me through the impeller replacement but getting the leg back on was one of the most unpleasant mechanical experiences of my life. Three hours of poking the drive shaft up there till it fell into place. There is a sleeve that the drive shaft fits into first before it engages the spline but I'm not sure what I was doing wrong but it did not go well and there was lots of $%#@ but I got her in the end. "There is a solution for everything in life except death!
Yeah it sucked for me too. There are like 3 or 4 things that have to line up. Another thing I learned is if the spline isn’t lining up you can pull the pull cord to help it seat. But yeah I feel your pain. I spent way more time than the vid shows… #editing
Loved the video. It will be a great reference for all time to come. I think when you put the jets back in the carb you put them in the wrong ports. You say "the longer jet is the idler jet" and you put it in the idler port. The main jet is actually the longer one. Did you change them later? Did you use the motor with the jets in the wrong places, and did it work?
Again thanks for posting this.
I’ll have to check that. I’ll go back and rewatch the vid. Never changed them and it ran great this year. Thanks for the kind words and the view!
Excellent video on the tear down and full maintenance. Sounds great at the end. Well done! You earned a sub!😊
Thanks!
top video thx just bought a 5hp tinny impeller was buggered well now im going to fix it ready 4 the ozzie summer...
Awesome thanks for the view!
Hola, yo tengo un 6 hp 4 tiempos yamaha, y por lo que veo es idéntico, me han servido mucho estos videos, gracias
gracias por el comentario. Me alegro de que los videos hayan ayudado. gracias por las vistas
thank you for sharing this very precious video, you are really good. Greetings from Italy (sorry for the google translation .. my english is a disaster)😉
grazie per la vista, buon anno nuovo!
I think its a good idea to replace the gaskets when changing oil on lower unit.
Yeah sorry I missed your comment. I agree, I’m going to start changing everytime
Thank you verry much....!!!
awesome man this is what youtube is about! cheers!
Thanks! I really appreciate the view!
The carburetor section was very helpful. Be aware that the low speed jet can be removed and cleaned without removing the carb; for me even using no-ethanol fuel this plugs up frequently. I keep a thin piece of trolling wire on the boat for just this reason.
Also loosening the carb bolts works better with a skinny 10mm nut driver and removing just 1 of the recoil cover bolts for easier access.
Good points! I’ll add them to my pinned comment listing pointers. I did struggle getting to the right bolt bc of the recoil started. Gonna take that bolt out next time! Thanks
Very honest video, no know it all bullshit , i am going to service mine now !
@adrianstone4443 awesome let me know how it goes. Putting the lower end unit back on is the hardest part, just takes patience
Love your channel man you make great videos keep up the good work 👍🏼
Thank you! I really appreciate the support!
Next time you pull the carb, disconnect the hoses but wait until you have removed the carb mounting bolts before trying to disconnect the throttle and choke linkages. The carb and air box can be tipped to disconnect them easily.
Yeah thanks good pts, I did notice the choke linkage could be removed by just rotating the carb. I’ll try the throt link next time as I did have some trouble with that one.
When starting - especially cold starting set it up correctly (fuel valve, choke, throttle setting, kill switch) and try just slowly pulling out the zip starter (slow to moderate pace) up to or around 3 times.
If you can feel the engines greatest resistance (on compression stroke) then zip briskly.
Sometimes even zip starting at a slow to moderate pace will start a lot of small engines.
** Engines like these without batteries or alternators sometimes need a few rotations to energize the ignition coil to fire the spark plug as well as draw in fuel / air mix for starting.
Great points, I have read this before especially the charging for ignition. I have pulled the kill switch, gave it 2 slow pulls, then put kill sw back in and then full pull. It seemed to help prime system. I’ll keep experimenting this spring! Thanks for the view!
I love that you shared your mistakes and problems. Because they are the same that we would most likely make as well. Great video my man. What app do u use to find your speed? I'm just getting into boating.
Thanks
Thanks again, I use a free app in the apple App Store just called “speedometer” and I use the “record it” app to record my phone screen
@@Skinnyriver thank you
Thank you friend. You just saved me 300 €.Hello from Finland ))
Awesome good luck, thanks for the view!
That prop looks in really good condition to me-normal wear.
Awesome video man. Thanks for making the effort to show step by step.
Thanks Dave, hopefully someone gets some value out of it. Editing made it look smoother than it really went :) but overall it was pretty easy and straight forward
@@Skinnyriver Well I certainly leant a lot from it. I have just acquired a trailer sailer from my sister which has the same 6HP Mercury on it but 2 Stroke. I've decided to keep it on a mooring in the water but trying to figure out how to flush it while it's still attached to transom. Thought maybe a bucket in the dinghy. Tricky and risky but no other ideas popped up.
You should also check and clean the float pin while you have the carb bowl off.😃
Yeah that’s a good point, I sprayed through the inlet and the needle but didn’t record it for some reason. Good point
@@Skinnyriver Marc Cohen is right but I recommend you should replace the float pin since you are this far into the carb. which is not something done often.
Excellent. Thank you for documenting and sharing this.
Thanks for the view! I appreciate the support!
So helpful gonna do my own now. Thanks so much bro
I appreciate the view! thanks
Bravo!Thank you bro.
I appreciate the view, thanks!!!
A cable tie (Zip tie) will hold the impellor in shape until the first half of the housing is on. Then you can cut it away.
That’s genius! Thanks
@@Skinnyriver
Youre welcome :)
Great videos. I’ve learned so much on how to maintain my Tohatsu 6hp. Do you plan on doing a video on float adjustment? My carburetor keep filling up with fuel and overflows when I have my fuel line attached. I’ve already replace the float and float needle valve. I think I may need to adjust the float level. Be cool if you an do one.
Thank you for the support! Quick question does it only happen when you use the external tank? Have you tried the internal tank to see if it still does it.
@@Skinnyriver my outboard only has an external tank. It runs fine when I disconnect the tank and just run off the fuel that’s already in the bowl
Need to make sure when greasing motor pivot points to use waterproof marine grease
Facts!!! Preach brother
I can seem to get the lower unit back into the right gear. Reverse is neutral. Top is fine can’t figure it out because the shift linkage won’t move down any more
If you put the top end in reverse, the lower end is in neutral? If so:
Shift the top end to reverse. Lower end should now be in neutral. Undo the coupling. Shift top end to neutral. Tighten coupling. Now both should be in neutral.
OR
the lower end has to be able to go down a position further (neutral position on lower end should be in the center so it has to be able to go up or down a position).
Put top end in reverse. Now lower end is in neutral. Undo the linkage coupling. Force the lower end rod down a position. Now tighten the coupling.
Really helpfull video! Thanks from Finland!
Awesome! Thanks for the view!
Awesome video!…. I’ve learned a ton from this video.
Thanks! I appreciate the view and taking time to comment!
Great video man, thanks a lot for your effort. You know how much of this applies to the smaller 2.5hp engine?
I’ve never worked on the 2.5. I would guess most everything is similar but maybe slightly different disassembly
EXCELLENT !! thank you
Thanks! Merry Christmas
Super helpful!
Awesome! Thanks for the view!
Dude your awesome this is beyond helpful thank you so much
Thanks! Glad it helped. I appreciate the view and support
Thank you for the excellent video. Helped me out a lot!!!!
Awesome, thanks for the view!
Nice video man and very funny while pulling 😆 have a good fishing 🎣
Ha ha yeah! I appreciate it. Thank you for the view
@@Skinnyriver thanks for the review of this motor I just bought one yesterday hope I won’t lose my arm trying to start it 😂😂
Nice did you get the 6hp? I found the issue I was having with starting. See video here: now it starts 1st pull czcams.com/video/tD2eeR7btXs/video.html
Got a 4hp I will upgrade the carb to make it 6hp 🤩
Thanks for this great great video! 🙏👍 It's awesome!! 👌
Thanks for the view. I appreciate the support!
Great video! Thanks :)
Thanks! I appreciate the view
after 15 years I swapped out my impeller and it was like new. Motor Honda BF5 run about 30 hours a year.
That’s impressive. I’ll probably scale back and replace mine every 200-300 hrs vs every yr.
I’ve had one almost catch on fire and was stuck miles downstream due to an impeller failing :)
First of all, great video. I have a two stroke 1997 Merc 40, impeller went at least 15 years without being changed and then failed. Saw the tell-tale jet go bad, and worked off/on. Looked up what was wrong--so I'm no expert here either. But, Mercury reccs every 3 year impeller change. In my experience, every 3 years is certainly frequent enough.
Also dish soap is terrible to use internally on engine parts!!! For sure do not do this, unless you're about to take it out on the water and even then I'd avoid it!!! First of all, soap contains water and certainly will cause rust in storage. Secondly soap is designed to remove oil/grease; however, you want the parts below your impeller, where the lower unit seal sits, to have oil and grease to seal out water, again preventing rust.
Great video though I enjoyed it a lot!
@@dk79085 thanks for the comments. I agree with all you said. But I think little soap as lubricant on the water impeller is low risk as it’s in the water cooling system and doesn’t touch any actual engine parts (other than cooling channels). Also you should run the motor after the install, which flushes the system. Definitely don’t use oil as it will deteriorate the rubber impeller. But I do agree every 3 yrs is sufficient. I think key point is changing the impeller is cheap insurance. If it goes out and you don’t notice tell tale the engine will be ruined.
Yes lower end gear unit.
Can you install the impeller in the housing before sliding it back on the drive shat? That's how you removed it...
I bet you could, just make sure you put the key in the slot after
Hey I love your channel
Thanks I’ll check out your channel!!!
@@Skinnyriver can I get a shout plz