Harley Drive Belt adjust and tension on Sportster. No Special tools!
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- čas přidán 14. 07. 2020
- Sportster Dive belt tension. No special tools. No special tools required. How to adjust, tension and align a drive belt on a Sportster, or most any Harley. Make sure you torque everything to spec when you are finished. Also this is basically the same procedure for the belt drive Yamaha's and Kawasaki's that were produced for a while.
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Greets from Russia!
Got an XL1200R a couple of days ago and you really helped me to adjust belt tension
Great to hear! I am glad it helped
Excellent, enjoyed the video, I have never had to do this. Good info thanks.
great vid and thanks for posting. measuring the threaded length of the axle adjustment bolts is brilliant.
Thanks! It is actually harleys idea.
@@KnobleMoto my pleasure sir. never having checked a service manual, wasn't aware of that. either way it's a hell of alot easier simply checking length as you did. great tip.
Awesome video thanks for sharing
You’re welcome
Just did this yesterday to my sporty. Did it pretty much the exact way you did. Did both the rod trick from axle to swing arm bolt followed by measuring the thread length. Both gave me the same end result. Good video aside from the glare! haha.
Thanks! Glad it worked out. Sorry about the glare, still trying to work on being a better cameraman .
@@KnobleMoto Well it looks good to me. I do not have a CZcams channel so already winning there!
Whatever you do, never ever use those jacks to lift a bike. If the handlebar moves so does the center of gravity and down goes the bike. Spend 100 and get a motorcycle jack.
That’s good advice
where do you get the rubber axle adjuster bolt covers ? i also need the little rubber elbow for the fuel tank vent line....where do i find this stuff???
Industrial supply places like grainger and McMaster Carr. Search for screw covers or thread protectors.
Now for the fuel lines, I get vacuum caps from the local auto parts store. They generally sell a box of assorted sizes.
@@KnobleMoto THANK YOU VERY MUCH SIR !!! ... but i can't cap off the tank vent...
the part i need there, is like a little 90 degree rubber elbow....i got the smallest one they had, at my local carquest, and ended up having to crush it into approximate fitment with zip ties....
gaudy and semi-functional, it comes off sometimes..
Is your rear wheel full on the ground under full weight ?
It was weighted enough that the swingarm was in line with the pulleys. Hopefully I mentioned that in the video.
DO NOT do it this way. Belt tension is harder to adjust than a chain. You seriously need the special tools. There are two of them. The 10 pound tension gauge from H-D, because you will never get it right by feel with a rubber belt, and a wheel alignment gauge. I got mine from Motion Pro. It is a long metal rod that has a fixed point on one end, and an adjustable point on the other end. There is a dimple in the end of the swing arm pivot on both sides, and a dimple in each end of the axle. To get the wheel aligned properly, the distance from the center of the swing arm pivot shaft to the center of the axle must be EXACTLY the same on both sides. That means EXACTLY the same, not 1/16" off. You can get away with that much difference with a chain, but not a belt. That distance is what the special tool measures. The tension gauge puts exactly 10 pounds of tension on the belt. You don't want 9 pounds or 11 pounds. It needs to be 10 pounds. This is where the problem comes in. It is almost impossible to get the tension EXACTLY right, while at the same time getting the wheel alignment EXACTLY right. It took me 4 attempts and over 2 hours. Remember that unlike a chain, a belt has NO sideways flex at all. It the wheel is not perfectly aligned, the pulleys won't be either, and the belt will wear very quickly, and may even come off the pulleys. I would much rather have a chain drive. Chains might require a little more maintenance (though not much more with modern O ring chains) and they are 10 times easier to adjust.
Well If i did it that way, the video would not have been called "with no special tools"
I tried this and my belt tension was loose and my axle was out of alignment , I made a alignment tool out of a stright rod and and a rubber pointer, I left the bikes weight on the rear tire, loosened up the axle then the axle adjuster, aligned the axle with my home made alignment tool, turn axle adjusting nut evenly intel I reached the right amount of tension, checked with my $10 tension tool, rechecked axle alignment with home made tool, all was good, torqued rear axle nut to spec, rechecked belt tension and axle alignment, all was perfect, this was done with the weight of the bike on it's tires! Never needed my special $25 calipers! The only special tool you need is the belt tension tool. Videos can set you down the wrong path.
At 10:25 you said and we saw .650 then when you went to the left you said .670 . Bit confusing I know.
I will have to go back and watch it.
This is so wrong center of swing arm shaft to center of rear axle shaft that's how it's done
Eh. The service manual says to measure the adjusters.